Iceland's Female Football Team Sets Goals, and Achieves Them

Issue No 9 – 2008 FREE

GOT BALLS? Iceland's female football team sets goals, and achieves them.

Music, Art, Film + s and E Roskilde vents L Festiva istings + YOUR ES l Warm-up Eating, D SEN Party · Ho rinking an E TIAL nouring d Shopp NTERTA GUID the Ultimate ing + M IN E TO L Grou ap Issue 09 MENT IN IFE, cers 2008 IC TRAV ELAND. EL AND What: Indian Nights at Oli www ver (B2) .grapev ine.is

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! 2 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

TABLE OF CONTENTS EDITORIAL MASTHEAD

Although Euro 2008 is behind us, Grapevine’s The Reykjavík Grapevine mind is still on football. It’s hard to let go of the Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Opinion excitement, arguments and all the ups and downs www.grapevine.is that are integral parts of big sport contests. Unfor- [email protected] tunately, my German champs failed to finish the www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine There’s a Whole Lot of Bumping Going On job, but I’m slowly coming around. What’s speed- Published by Fröken ehf. 06 An opinion by Alexandra Hertell ing up the recovery are the new idols I found to support: Icelandic female football players. Editorial: Tips from the Aussie now calling Iceland “home” +354 540 3600 / [email protected] 08 An opinion by Iris Goemans On the cover this issue is national team player Advertising: Margrét Lára Viðarsdóttir, the queen of football +354 540 3605 / [email protected] in Iceland and beyond. Sportsman of the Year in Publisher: 2007, a record-breaking striker and a role model +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Articles for the young generation of footballers, she is getting close to securing Iceland a ticket to the Publisher: Everyone’s Invited! European Cup in Finland next year. With a stag- Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson 06 Gunnar Tynes and company want YOU to take a hike and strum a chord or two gering 7-0 victory against Greece last month, the [email protected] team only has one game to go to qualify for the Editor: Iceland: Home of the Per Capita Record big fight. What’s more, they only need a draw Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] 08 (Also: home to the most expensive Big Mac in the world.) against France in September so the chances are Assistant Editor: getting pretty good. Qualifying for the finals will Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Icelandic Skateboard Design be a first time ever for an Icelandic football team. Contributing Writers: 10 Way cooler than aluminium production That’s huge! So while our economy is going down Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] the drains, we have at least one thing to be super Ian Watson / www.ianwatson.org Equal Opportunities proud of. Our team is awesome and they deserve Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] 12 Iceland’s women draw attention as they move closer to Euro 2009 all the support they can get. Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] Ben H. Murray The Artists Have Come Home to Roost But there’s more to live than football I’ve been Editorial Intern: 14 A 10-year reunion of three artists at Kling&Bang Gallery told. In this issue we discover many critical Nathaniel Flagg things, in particular that July is a good month to Oddur Sturluson The Ambassador flee Reykjavík. While August is the capital’s fun- Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson 16 Grapevine makes an investigative report on Icelandic prejudices against Americans season, there are loads of entertaining festivals Art Director: across the country in the coming weeks, featuring Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Deafening Silence art, music and a whole lot of partying. To name Layout: 18 Nature Concerts at Laugardalur just a few; there is Eistnaflug for the hardcore Jóhannes Kjartansson / www.joi.is rockers, Bræðslan for pop-fans, LungA for the Photographer: Conservation Volunteers arty-crowd and the Kimi ring-road concert-tour Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson (GAS) 22 A different experience of Iceland’s nature for all you frisky music lovers who want to travel [email protected] the country and celebrate the glory of summer. Marketing Director: CD Reviews For those stuck in the capital this month, there’s Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 24 Benni Hemm Hemm / Grjóthrun always Austurvöllur. Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Concert review Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Distribution: 24 Singapore Sling Þórir Gunnar Jónsson / [email protected] Proofreader: CD Reviews THE COVER Jim Rice 25 Sigur Rós / Hraun Press releases: Concert review [email protected] 25 Benni Hemm Hemm Submissions inquiries: [email protected] I s s u e N o 9 – 2 0 0 8 F R E E French Fries and Religious Symbols Subscription inquiries: 26 Namita Kapoor exhibits a fusion of Western and Asian cultures +354 540 3605 / [email protected] General inquiries: GOT A Cosy Colonial Store BALLS? [email protected] Iceland's female football Hemmi and Valdi want your whole family there team sets goals, 28 and achieves them. The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing Feature in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers.

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that The Sweaty Musical Armpit COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! 16 Interview with Mammút and Slugs all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík COVER PHOTO BY Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Akureyri, GAS Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key loca- Destinations tions around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions ON COVER: and tourist information centres. Margrét Lára Viðarsdóttir Five Days in the West Fjords You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. 30 Exploring fishing villages in the far northwest (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the Getting Horny with the Cod writers’ own, not the advertisers’). 32 Sea angling in Faxaflói Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 30.000 copies. Fjord Explorers 33 Kayaking in Hvalfjörður

Summer Festivals in the Countryside 32 SIGRÚN KRISTÍN SKÚLADÓTTIR WORKING IN THE CINTAMANI HEAD- QUARTERS. SHE ENJOYS EXPLORING ICELANDIC NATURE BOTH WINTER AND SUMMER AND IS ALWAYS LOOKING FOR NEW ADVENTURES.

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LETTERS Sour Grapes

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected].

Dear Grapevine little criticism, and rightly so. But the 1) Approximately, how many musici- I read M. Sabey´s letter in The Grape- Thugees are also worthy villians, even ans are actively involved in the indie vine (Issue 08 - 2008) with a degree of if they come from the non-European scene? How many are non-musicians sympathy, but not much. It talks about world. The aforementioned article se- are involved (music industry-people, coming to Iceland and being shocked ems to be written more out of misgui- journalists etc.)? by the prices charged for food and ded political correctness, rather than a drink, and how unacceptable the cost knowledge of facts. 2) Can you tell me about the music ma- is to the average tourist. gazine Undirtónar? Is it still alive? I find this slightly surprising, parti- Regards, cularly as M. Sabey freely admits she Valur Gunnarsson 3) Can you tell me about the so called was warned about the high prices and "Cute" generation. Who does it cover, is a seasoned traveller. Surely even the Dear Mr. Gunnarsson, and are there any controversies about most basic of calculations involving ex- We thank you for your valid points and the term? change rates, google and an up-to-date will be sure to give the writer in ques- guide book (or even an online restau- tion (nudge, nudge) a proper talking to, Hope you can help. rant food and drink menu) would have should he ever dare set his foot in our spelled out the situation office again. Best regards and thanks, pretty clearly. Thomas Iceland, in my opinion, is such a wonderful and beautiful place because Hi, my name is Scott. I am a grade 7 Dear Thomas, it is so remote, thus meaning a lot of student from the Goodwin Learning While the Grapevine is a way credible items like food and drink have to be im- Centre in Brighton, Ontario, Canada. source of information, we do hope that ported, which means it´ll be expensive your research for your masters thesis (!) - that´s economics for you. It goes with I have attached a letter and signatures isn’t limited to writing letters to the edi- the territory and is something I, and of all my fellow classmates as we are tor. That said, your thesis sounds thril- many others, are willing to tolerate in trying very hard to raise pebbles for a ling, and you should make sure to send order to spend time in the most bre- memorial path in recognition of the 6 us a copy as soon as you finish it. And athtaking country I´ve been fortunate million lives lost in the Holocaust. Our here are some answers: enough to know well. first year this year, we have collected 250,000, a ways to go from our 6 million 1) There are 834 people actively invol- Nicola Cassock needed. ved in the indie scene, and around 14 London, England. promoters. Could you please try to help by sending 2) Undirtónar hasn’t been published for Dear Nicola, us some pebbles from your country? at least two years. Hear, hear! That Sabet character did 3) The “Cute” generation allegedly co- sound a bit daft, but we can’t really re- Thank you for your help and the read- vers people born from 1974-1985 that spond to letters calling our readers daft, ing of my letter. I wish for you to pass have a propensity for wearing woollen can we? So, thanks for taking care of on the good word of our efforts. hats and making plinky-plonky music that! on glockenspiels. They proudly sport Sincerely, the name, and rock pretty hard whilst doing so. Dear Grapevine Scott Seguin I read with interest your article on the 18 Deerfield Drive politics of the Indiana Jones films. It’s Brighton, Ontario author, however, seemed to suggested K0K 1H0 that Indy’s fight against the Thugee cult in “Indiana Jones and the Temple of Dear Scott, Doom,” was colonialist and possibly ra- That’s a really ambitious project you cist. The Thugee cult, however, did in- guys are working on. Six million peb- deed exist and may have killed as many bles, eh? That’s like... eighteen times the as 600.000 people in the course of its human population of Iceland. In pebble existence. This they did not do out of form. The Grapevine hereby encourages any motive to fight foreign oppressors, every Icelander to send Scott at least but simply because the believed the go- eighteen pebbles. On your marks, get Reykjavík dess Kali had given them permission to set, go! kill people in order to rob them. At first the British colonial authorities viewed Welcome Card the problem as an internal one bet- Hi there! ween Indians, and took no action. Only I am currently working on my master Enjoy the Thermal Pools, Museums, the valiant efforts of Judge William Sle- thesis at the department of Musicology eman, who could speak Hindi, brought at Aarhus University, Denmark. My sub- Public Transport and discounts. the problem to popular attention and ject is the contemporary alternative eradicated the cult. This also brought music scene in Reykjavik, and I've got a new word into the English language, some specific questions, that I hope so- “Thug,” the meaning of which is well meone at Grapevine can help me with. appropriate for members of the cult. It shouldn't take more than a couple of Indiana Jones’ struggles against Nazis minutes. and Soviets in other films has drawn

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6 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008 opinion interview BY Haukur S. Magnússon — PHOTO by ÓLAFUR JÓNASSON

There’s a Whole Lot of Bumping Going On by Alexandra Hertell

Galtarviti: It's pretty remote. For a newcomer, Reykjavik’s small size and even smaller downtown makes feeling like a local all the much easier. Once you start knowing a few people, you will see them walking down Laugav- egur, sitting next to you at a restaurant or working Everyone’s Invited! at your favourite store. It really has that small town charm where you feel like saying, “Howdy neigh- Gunnar Tynes and company want YOU to take a hike and strum a chord or two bour!” Except that you will be laughed at. I remember when I first moved here, the first thing that made me feel like Reykjavik was my home was the constant bumping into the people I Galtarviti is the name of an aban- long time, just assembling songs from some of our *Why do you think that is? knew. I was telling a friend of mine how seeing so doned lighthouse on the outskirts friends and well-wishers onto an album and selling many recognisable faces constantly made me feel of the West Fjords. It’s just as it for a profit. When Gunni got the idea of making “You’re just alone in the universe over there. Each warm and fuzzy. “Really. Well it’ll get old sooner remote as it sounds: it can only be it into a collaborative effort, where we would in- day seems to stretch out into infinity and you man- than you think,” was his reply. He told me he was vite good people to contribute and help us brew age to fit everything into it,” says Tynes. “The whole reached via a four-hour hike, or late for meeting me because while he was walking up something special in a session, we jumped at concept of day is kind of outdated in Galtarviti he kept on seeing people he knew. I said, “Well by boat, when the tide is right. It it. Hopefully we can release it as early as next Eas- during the month of July. You can only tell passing that’s because you like to be a skateboard-wield- has no Internet, no cell phone con- ter, maybe at the Aldrei fór ég suður festival. That time by the tides, if at all. And that makes a huge ing social butterfly. Or it’s a pretty creative excuse nectivity and getting a decent latté would be ideal.” difference, but there’s also a sort of energy that’s for making me stare at the street lamp for thirty there is damn near impossible. When asked what the proceeds of the album hard to put into words. Let’s just say that getting minutes.” will be spent on, Jónasson explains all the work people to come for the first time can be hard, but That night I went out to Kaffibarinn and And we are all invited! that needs to be done to get it into shape. “We’ve getting them back is no problem. Maybe it’s the bumped into a girl I had met that week. Again I been working on repairing the place for a long fact that your left hemisphere is busy with meet- said, “I love these spontaneous gatherings!” This “Galtarviti is a really creative place. I don’t care if time. We’re always doing some sort of short-term ings and macchiatos and planning tomorrow while chin-pierced sprite replied, “It isn’t so fun for us.” calling a place creative sounds all new-agey and repairs, and we feel it’s necessary to bring it into your right hemisphere only wants to exist and cre- She began pointed out different people in the bar weird, it’s true. Maybe it’s being surrounded by the proper shape once and for all. There’s a lot that ate and enjoy life. And when you visit a place like she knew and how if someone isn’t a close friend oldest mountains in Iceland, maybe it’s the isola- goes on there during the winter, the weather gets Galtarviti, the left one is forced to relax. You can’t you don’t really say hi unless you literally have tion. The place definitely has something to it.” crazy. The roof has blown off once and several win- plan anything, and you can’t worry about anything. them face-to-face. And sometimes you don’t know Gunnar Tynes of the band múm (Iceland’s third dows have broken from storm-action, in the short And that’s a great feeling.” when to say hi or not and you just look at each most beloved musical export) is explaining why he time that we’ve had it. So the idea is to get Galtarviti Jónasson finally tells us that many consider the Gal- other and if your gazes meet, you smile. likes to make music at the aforementioned aban- into the best possible shape so it can serve as a ha- tarviti area to be the richest habitation of elves in Now that I have been here longer, I am not ir- doned, isolated lighthouse. Galtarviti has played ven for artists, musicians and writers who want to Iceland. “I can’t offer any proof, but it is a different ritated yet but I sure as hell know what my friends somewhat of a role in his band’s history, and they escape the city to work on their art. And a lot of art place. Óskar Aðalstein [Guðjónsson, writer/light- meant. Running late to the bank, I inevitably walk have recorded some of their best work while in ex- has been made there; the former lighthouse-keeper house keeper who stayed with his family there for into a friend. Someone does you wrong and sud- ile at the lighthouse. While it may seem odd that wrote at least nine novels in his occupancy. It’s a 24 years, from 1953-1977] said that one of the hills denly they are everywhere. I had a photographer an artist would feel defensive of his opinion that sin that more people don’t get to experience a stay contained a symphony orchestra of them. But I’m take some pictures of a model for a store. She a peaceful spot in the countryside is conducive to there, and we aim to mend that.” yet to hear it.” And Tynes concurs: “I haven’t really never gave them to me and ignored my e-mails creativity, it is important to remember that mem- Given the severe isolation Galtarviti offers, the given much thought to elves. But the only time in but had the beautiful pictures plastered all over bers of múm probably get asked about magical place is still remarkably accessible, and therein lies my life that I’ve had “strange things” happen to me her Myspace. Of course I would run into her again elves and nature more than most. And that he had part of its charm. You can either get there by boat was when múm was here for the first time, in 2001.” and again and every time she gives me the look of what some believe to be a near-elf experience at from Suðureyri (a 20 minute drive from Ísafjörður, He then relates a lengthy story involving the plau- a deer in headlights. The worst part is the X factor. Galtarviti at one point. which is a 45 minute flight from Reykjavík) or via a sible possibility of elfin intervention that he will You break up with somebody and you can’t avoid As you read this, Tynes will be a more than 2-4 hour hike from Skálavík (a 40 minute drive from surely recount once you visit him at Galtarviti. seeing them. I’ve had friends recount stories of week into a month-long stay at Galtarviti. And if Ísafjörður). “It’s really like being on [isolated tourist pining indoors for months for fear of bumping into you are musically inclined, not averse to hiking or haven] Hornstrandir, except you’re closer to civili- Those interested in visiting Galtarviti to help create their ex and his/her new lover. One friend even boat rides and have some vacation time on your sation. We recently found that the GSM network what’s bound to be an interesting work of music can left the country. He needed to get fresh air some- hands, you should go and join him there and help had reached Skálavík, the next fjord over, but we make arrangements to do so via galtarviti@gmail. how. construct an album that’s meant to raise funds for are fortunately still out of its reach,” says Jónasson. com. They check their e-mail every couple of days. Even though it can get irritating, it’s better necessary repairs and improvements on the Galtar- than living in a big city where you schedule in viti facilities. Turning übermensch your friends because you never get to see them. Along with one of Galtarviti’s landlords, Ólafur Accessible as it may be, getting there is still no pic- So, howdy neighbour! Jónasson, Tynes will stay there until July 25, record- nic as Tynes relates: “We once had to leave a har- ing the aural outpourings of whoever happens to monium organ up on the middle of the mountain We once had to leave a harmo- pass through (and a lot of established musicians on the way there during mid-winter, we couldn’t nium organ up on the middle of and artists have already committed to a visit). He make it the whole way on account of the snow. will then assemble the recordings into a coherent Fortunately it was well packed, so we managed to the mountain on the way there whole, to be released in benefit of Galtarviti early bring it to safety in the spring. That hill, it’s called during mid-winter, we couldn’t next year. The Grapevine met up with Tynes and Piano Hill now. Bringing instruments there is defi- Jónasson on the eve of their departure to Galtarviti nitely easier said than done. We’ve sometimes gone make it the whole way on ac- and got them to tell what they plan on doing this there before embarking upon a world tour. After count of the snow. summer at Galtarviti, and why. ferrying all of our instruments and stuff to Galtarviti you turn into a kind of übermensch, suddenly load- Creating a haven for artists ing amps and drum kits between venues isn’t such “It’s really basic,” says Jónasson. “We’ve been plan- a big deal. You get loaded with energy.” ning to make a benefit album for Galtarviti for a RAFTING FROM 6.590 ISK

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Tips from the Aussie now calling Iceland “home” by Iris Goemans

If you have recently moved to Iceland (as I have), or are considering the move, here are some thoughts and suggestions to consider (most of which I am still trying to implement myself): Iceland: Home of the Per Capita Record Firstly, be kind to yourself and be patient. Mov- ing to a new country is a big change and even big- Also: home to the most expensive Big Mac in the world. ger challenge. Leaving behind your home, family, friends, job, and familiar surroundings is tough. You come to Iceland…a new country, different culture, difficult language, unfamiliar surround- Living in an environment as hos- able compared to Belgium’s 60 out of every 100 pay nurses, teachers and police officers such fan- ings, with a limited support network, probably un- tile and unpredictable as Iceland marriages. Iceland also has the third lowest in- tastic wages? Oh, wait, we don't! In fact, Icelandic employed and trying to survive in this incredibly can have severe effects on one’s fant mortality rate in the entire world, the highest teachers’ wages are only slightly higher than in expensive country, whilst battling the unpredict- amount of water availability and the lowest per- Mexico and substantially lower than in Italy, de- able weather conditions. It’s tough! With all this to mental stability. When a society ceivable amount of government corruption. In Ice- spite both countries paying a lot less in taxes. juggle, don’t put too much pressure on yourself to goes through environmental hard- land, the government doesn't lie about its shady get a job within “x” number of weeks or any other ship, long periods of darkness and dealings; it just refuses to comment on them. In International Politics and College Hierarchy expectations like that. centuries of seclusion it's bound to your face, Democracy! The goal of this article is not to mock or degrade Most importantly, try to learn Icelandic – this lead to some kind of eccentricity. Iceland. By all standards, per capita or otherwise, will be your key to integrating, and will definitely Great Artists, Crappy Terrorists this quaint little island is a respectable place to help you secure a good job. I am a qualified Psy- This is most obviously exemplified by the curious Icelanders read the most books per capita and live but it's not the same island it was two decades chologist back in my home country of Australia, mix of grandiosity and meekness (an oxymoron have more artists as part of the workforce than ago. Like a hot firstyear girl flirting with seniors at but because I only speak pinulitla islensku, I am if there was one) of native Icelanders who find it anywhere else. Perhaps this explains the fact that the dance, we're at the pivotal point where we can finding it difficult to obtain a professional, well- nothing short of scandalous that their small, un- in a survey released about a year ago only 3% of either go home with the captain of the football paying job here in Iceland. At least initially, armed country doesn't have as much political pull the country described themselves as unhappy or team who'll use us and dump us (and be “that” non-Icelandic speaking foreigners may need to as some of their larger, more powerful neighbours. maybe it's because Iceland has the highest rate of girl for the rest of our college years). Or we can consider working in kindergartens, aged care fa- At the same time they are proud of having almost suicide caused by depressive episodes. Is every- remember the nerdy kid who's always been there cilities, restaurants, bars or cafés. However, if you won a football match against the World Champi- one who isn't happy already dead? The war on ter- for us and be the cool chick in the coming of age have a high degree of expertise in things such as ons... a decade ago. ror has proven itself worthwhile in Iceland where comedy/drama, which is the world of internation- computer programming, engineering or other sci- But as Homo sapiens always do, Icelanders no one has ever died in a terrorist attack. Taken al politics. Let's not be Lindsay Lohan in Mean ence-based occupations, this will increase your found a way to cope. Instead of giving up and fac- back to school bin Laden! Girls, let's be Ellen Page in Juno. chances of obtaining work with a good income. ing the fact that a small, isolated country may not I also suggest diving head first into Icelandic be comparable to huge, multi-cultural ones, these The Perfect Woman life. Get to know the locals… Go to the heated proud islanders invented something brilliant in We have the 5th highest rate of female parliamen- swimming pools… Undertake a sport or hobby… its simplicity and devastating in its effectiveness: tarians with 34.9% of the parliament being women Iceland is also the third most Join a hiking group… Go to the bars and cafés… something which serves to both prove this coun- and had the honour of having the first female taxed country in the world. But Whatever… but do something. Loneliness and de- try’s superiority and kindle fears of its imminent president. Unfortunately for the fairer sex, Iceland pression can become your closest companions, degeneration – The Per Capita Record. also has the highest incidence of breast cancer of course, how else could we especially when you feel isolated, vulnerable and The Per Capita Record is quite simply when in women, or 39.4 afflicted for every 100.000. On afford to pay nurses, teachers out of your comfort zone – so take charge! Iceland does something noticeable, compared to a side note, in this reporter’s opinion, Icelandic Stay strong mentally and always keep an open how small it is; for example, we don't have nearly women are not only still the most beautiful, they and police officers such fan- mind. You are in Iceland for a reason or purpose, as many cars as the UK, but compared to the pop- are also the best fighters in the world. I dare you tastic wages? Oh, wait, we don't! but expect the unexpected (this is the land of fire ulation we have a lot more. Used most often to ex- to piss off an Icelandic woman between midnight and ice, after all). You may hit a few speed bumps cuse the mediocre standing of our sports teams, and 5 AM on a Saturday night. I double dare you. along your journey but remember… it’s not what you'll often hear Icelanders state that our sports happens to you, it’s how you perceive it. All the teams are actually very good... compared to how Global Warming? Sounds good INFO frustration and challenges are laying the founda- few we are. But since receiving the rather embar- The clean and unpolluted island paradise has the * A survey preformed approximately a year tion for newfound learning, understanding and rassing news that Icelandic woman are no longer most tractors per 100 hectares of arable land and ago showed Iceland as the happiest country growth. As my good friend Anthony Robbins says, considered the most beautiful in the world and in fact has more than three times more than the in the world. A newer survey, however, “What we can or cannot do, what we consider in fact don't even come close, Iceland has been next country, Japan. At the same time, however, has placed Denmark in first place, and possible or impossible, is rarely a function of our in need of a good dose of patriotism. So, without Iceland has the second least amount of arable Iceland as about as happy as Columbia and true capability, it is more likely a function of our further ado, here is the list of Iceland's proudest land of all countries that practice agriculture, Puerto Rico. What traumatic event could beliefs about who we are.” The secret of success accomplishments. which leaves us with practically no land and a have lowered Iceland's spirits so dramatical is learning how to use pain and pleasure instead hell of a lot of tractors. It's not just tractors though; ly? Two words. Merzedes Club. of having pain and pleasure use you. If you do Morality Capital of the World Iceland has the second highest amount of cars * Despite our reputation, Iceland is not one of that, you're in control of your life. If you don't, life Although widely thought of as being a rather alco- per capita too, right after the USA, and is in 8th the top alcohol consumers in the world. controls you. holically inclined nation it turns out that Iceland place for oil usage, with each person using more * Iceland has the most tractors per 100 Some final thoughts… Maintain a sense of was in 27th place out of 30 surveyed countries for than half a barrel a day. Whatcha gonna do about hectares of arable land and the second most humour… Don’t take things too personally… and per capita alcohol consumption. Put that in your it Saving Iceland? cars per capita in the world. stay in touch with family and friends back home. pipe and smoke it, Quentin Tarantino! Another * Iceland has the highest rate of suicide as a Enjoy your stay! misconception is that all Icelanders get divorced, Socialist Paradise consequence of depression. but according to the statistics only 30 of every 100 Iceland is also the third most taxed country in the * Nobody in Iceland has ever been killed in a marriages ends in divorce, which is pretty respect- world. But of course, how else could we afford to terrorist attack. F í t o n / S Í A

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www.kringlan.is 10 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

FASHION BY RVK LOOKs DESIGN BY Oddur Sturluson — PHOTO BY GAS Reykjavik Looks, Apparently

When you walk down Laugarvegur, it’s hard to miss the recent outbreak in hipster clothing. You’re no longer welcome in the VIP lines in front of Kaffibarinn and Boston, no matter how famous or cool you are, if you don’t boast of design clothing such as Wood Wood, Henrik Vibskov or B. Infamous French street photographer Facehunter noticed this few years back and so he made his appearance at Icelandic Airwaves in 2006 and caught this newfound style prodigy of Reykjavik on film. The founder of Reykjaviklooks.blogspot.com (soon to be reykjaviklooks.net), Elísabet, followed his work in 2006 and it aroused her interest. Her dream of establishing a street fashion site of her own soon became reality and she offered Saga a partnership because of her alleged photographing eligibil- ity. This summer they operate their successful site with a grant from HittHúsið. A lot of foreign media has offered them publishing space but they chose to let us at Reykjavik Grapevine follow them this summer and every issue will contain some of their most recent photos.

Name Gunnhildur Melsteð

AGE 22

Occupation Student

Favourite vintage shop Spúútnik

skateboard art provides instants of visual pleasure.

Name Ragnhildur Weisshapel AGE Icelandic Skateboard Design 18 Way cooler than aluminium production Occupation Student

Most frequented shop Described by Mark Gonzales as a way and design of both long and freestyle skateboards, including Kolaportið to conquer boredom, skateboarding has what he described as being “the ugliest, comfiest board in saved many Icelanders from the blues, the world”. which inevitably follow island living. Al- Sara is an artist who has utilised used boards, although they serve a more aesthetic purpose than practical. Although not though some only dabble and many leave a hardcore skater herself, her work is heavily influenced by the scene without ever having had any the skaters she's known for many years. real effect or influence, there are those ‘Amma’ skateboards also supposedly have a project in whose tenacity and dedication have kept the pipeline but have yet to release anything. They've stated skateboarding alive and well. They have that once ready (which will hopefully be soon), their boards will be available at the newly opened Reykjavík Skate-Shop, inspired younger skateboarders to keep which is situated at Ingólfstorg square where Underground honing their skills and helped skateboard- used to be. Lucas has shown his boards at Kaffi Hljóma- ing become the established hobby, lifestyle lind but now keeps them in Noland, another newly opened and art form that it is today. skate-shop on Laugavegur. Siggi, Baldur and Sara have all displayed their boards at Belleville, the premiere skateboard As one of the few sports that endorses individual strength enthusiast's shop in Reykjavík. These three stores are the Name and independence, skating has had a profound and often un- places to go if you're searching for Icelandic skate design or Nína Óskarsdóttir derestimated influence on fashion and art. Four skateboard info on the Icelandic skate scene. enthusiasts have recently gained recognition in the Icelandic AGE skate scene for their custom made skateboards: Lucas, Bal- 21 dur, Sara and Siggi. As one of THE few sports that endorses Lucas Quesnel Keller is a Californian who has lived in individual strength and independence, Occupation Iceland for about a year. An aspiring chef as well as artist, Student Lucas has been skating for more than a decade and is rec- skating has had a profound and often un- ognised as one of the more talented skaters in the country. derestimated influence on fashion and art. On Icelandic Fashion He renovates and repaints used boards and has exhibited “Icelanders are original and very his boards as well as other artwork at Café Hljómalind on open in relation to fashion.” Laugavegur. He has also designed T-Shirts but appreciates the board as a canvas more, both due to its unique shape as Skate-shops in Reykjavík well as the “personality” it acquires through use. Belleville, Laugavegur 55 Sigurður Júlíus Bjarnason, who some deem to be the www.myspace.com/belle_ville best skater that Iceland has ever had, is known for his ‘Kanns- ki’ boards which sport the colours of the Icelandic flag. His Noland, Laugavegur 32 boards are still very rare and will most likely continue to be www.myspace.com/nolandrvk so due to the fact that they simply beg to be skated to shreds. Siggi's boards simply look best when they're being used. Reykjavík Skate-Shop, at Ingólfstorg square. Graphic designer and musician Baldur Björnsson is an www.myspace.com/ingo101 avid board enthusiast and designs longboards. Although he originally only designed boards as personal gifts, he is Brim, Laugavegur 71 now planning experimental projects focused on the creation www.brim.is www.flybus.is ENJOY YOUR TRIP WITH FLYBUS The Flybus airport shuttle will take you from Keflavik International Airport to Reykjavik city and vice versa. The Flybus is connected to all arriving and departing flights at Keflavik airport. Seats are always guaranteed.

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RE-04 RE-80 RE-05 Golden Circle Blue Lagoon Express Glacier Adventure Reykjavík Grand Don’t miss out on the fascinating experi- A peaceful time in the Blue Lagoon is the Want to add some excitement to your Excursion ence the Icelandic Golden Circle gives perfect start or end to your holiday in visit to Iceland? What about snowmobil- Get to know the capital with an expert by you. On this tour we take you to the Iceland. We offer many trips a day and you ing on a glacier with a wonderful view your side. We take you around Reykjavík geysers, the famous Gullfoss waterfall can either go straigth to the airport or go over the south coast! This tour will com- with a guide and show you the highlights along with a visit to Þingvellir National back to Reykjavík. So take a dip in the Blue bine your need for an adrenalin rush with of the city. The tour ends at the National Park. This tour is a must to make your visit Lagoon and feel rejuvinated afterwards. the Icelandic landscape. Museum of Iceland where you can see to Iceland complete. Icelandic culture at its best.

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RE-81 RE-24 RE-08 RE-15 Take a Walk on Gullfoss and Geysir Saga Circle South Shore the Ice Side Direct This tour is perfect for all Saga enthusiast. Adventure On this tour we take you around the area Want to see and feel something com- If you want to spend your afternoon in This tour takes you along the sandy coast- where one of the Icelandic Sagas took pletely different? Why not take a walk the countryside join this tour with us and line of the South with a taste of Icelandic place - along with enjoying spectacular on a glacier and experience a surface we will show you two of Iceland’s most nature. On this tour you breathe in the landscape. Come and follow the footsteps that you have never been able to walk famous attractions – Gullfoss and the fresh air by a black beach just before see- of the Vikings with us. on before! Take a tour with us and try geysers. Make sure you don’t miss out on ing striking waterfalls that mesmerize you something new - a once in a lifetime this one. while gazing at them. experience for most.

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BSI Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / Phone: +354 562-1011 / [email protected] / www.re.is 12 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

FASHION BY RVK LOOKs ARTICLE BY Páll Hilmarsson — PHOTO BY GAS Reykjavik Looks reykjaviklooks.blogspot.com

Name Hildur Yeoman

AGE 24

Occupation Designer

Favourite shops in Iceland Trilogia, Kronkron and Systur

Name Anna Kristín Sigurðardóttir as it turns out, iceland's women kick ass in football

AGE 25 Occupation Equal Opportunities Kron shop-manager Iceland’s women draw attention as they move closer to Euro 2009 Favourite item in the closet “All my clothes are friends, I don’t favour one over another.” I grew up in a small village on the east coast of Iceland. In why so few girls wanted to play football was, in my opinion, many ways it was an ideal place to be a young kid; the free- simply because they couldn't. If the local community had dom was a lot more than in the larger village Reykjavík. There made it easy for girls to participate, to compete and to train, were endless opportunities for active children, the closeness then a lot more of the girls in my class would have joined. of the community created a safe environment – in a small vil- There simply wasn't a lot of interest in providing these girls lage everyone knows everyone – which is great for children with facilities, trainers, and opportunities. There was a wom- but maybe not so much for adults. Today, some 25 years later, en's team in the next town, some 30 kilometres away, a hefty most of the people my age have moved away. distance to travel for practice. Our favourite pastime was playing football at the small tar- This girl was more stubborn than most. She travelled the mac field by the school. We spent endless hours there, play- distance and practiced with the team of the adjacent town. ing from early in the morning until late at night. It was there Later she moved to Reykjavík where there were bigger op- that we honed our skills which we put to use playing for the portunities (in every sense) and played with some women's local team. Most of the competitive games we played were teams there in the premier division. At that time the women's Name against teams from towns close by, but sometimes we got to division was an afterthought to the men's, they often played Pan Thorarensen travel to Akureyri for bigger tournaments and once we took at the practice fields of the clubs instead of the formal pitch, a long bus ride to Reykjavík to meet up with the bigger teams their games went unnoticed in the media and generally AGE there. This was mostly fun and games – the point was to have didn't get much support. 27 fun – the obsession with winning would come later. Two Wins in One Week Occupation This is slowly changing. Now the women's national team is Musician Now the women's national team is out- outclassing the men's team – they have a good shot at making it to the European Cup Final in Finland next year – and Most frequented shop classing the men's team – they have a in doing so, may become the first Icelandic football team to Noland good shot at making it to the European enter a final round of a big tournament. Last week the national team played two home games, beating Slovenia 5 – 0, Cup Final in Finland next year – and in and five days later annihilating the Greek squad, 7 – 0. These doing so, may become the first Icelandic games drew a big crowd, over 5000 people showed up for the match against Greece and the media is catching on that soccer team to enter a final round of a women's football is something worth mentioning. big tournament. When girls all around the country get the opportunity to practice and play football for as long as they want – and not just when the boys "let them" – we will in the future have an even stronger national team than we do now. When girls see Girls Not Invited positive role models in the media, women who are success- There were 17 kids in my class at school, 9 boys and 8 girls. ful at what they do, there will be even more girls wanting Almost all the boys were involved in the football team al- to play football. The fantastic achievements of the women's though some of them were hopeless at kicking a ball and national team will propel women's football here farther and should really have spent their time reading books or collect- make it possible for girls all around the country to reach their ing stamps. Only one girl took the sport seriously and she greatest potential. outclassed most of us. She was a great technical player, as Hopefully girls all around the country will be able to play strong as any boy on the team and as fearless as any 12 year football as long as they'd like, in an environment equal to old boy. At that age none of us questioned having a girl on what our young boys get. There is no reason why a 14 year our team; it didn't even enter our minds that football should old girl today should not get the same opportunities as boys be a gender segregated sport. In a few years that changed. her age. When we were 14 then it suddenly wasn't considered proper to include a girl in the team. She was off the team despite the fact that she made our team stronger and our chances of INFO winning greater. I'm not sure if this was insisted upon by our The Icelandic team is in Group 3 in UEFA Euro 2009 rival teams or our adult coach, but the result was the same: Qualification with France, Slovenia, Greece and Serbia. this young woman had to play football with other girls and not us boys. The team will meet France on September 27. They need Now in a small village with a population of 700 people it only a draw to secure qualification for UEFA WOMEN'S is quite a feat having one football team that caters to different EURO, taking place in Finland from August 23 to age groups. The possibility, at the time, to have a separate September 10, 2009 team for girls was slim, especially considering that a fewer girls wanted to play football than the boys. Now the reason Álafoss - outlet Álafossvegur 23 Þingvellir Mosfellsbær (C.a 16 km away from Reykjavík on the road Mosfellsbær to Þingvellir)

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14 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

Cheap Reykjavík! INTERVIEW BY Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson — PHOTO BY GAS Celebrating the pleasantly cheap finds we sometimes stumble upon by Haukur S. Magnússon

Cheap coffee This piece has nothing to do with sex, dating or the incredibly hot women of Iceland. Rather, it was inspired by the incredibly cheap lattés at Kaffibarinn (250 ISK for a double!), even if those bastards raised their price by 50 ISK the exact day this article was researched. At 300 ISK, the coffee there is still relatively cheap (especially if you cheat the system and get a double – they do not differentiate and you get lots more caffeine for your krónur. This might also work for a triple, let us know), and it’s pretty good too. So Kaffibarinn still offers some of the cheapest coffee in 101 Rvk, and they have free waffles on Sundays. Did you hear that? FREE WAFFLES! SPOT THE FAKE: WHICH ONE IS NOT LIKE THE OTHER?

Cheap lunch have been involved in several adventures e.g. Bónus is the cheapest grocery store in Iceland The Artists Have Come Home to Roost the founding and operating of both this gal- according to a lot of distinguished surveys (and lery, Kling&Bang, and also I took part in the my very own investigations), and their logo is a A 10-year reunion of three artists at Kling&Bang Gallery Klink&Bank phenomenon.” big, pink pig plastered. This makes Bónus the It’s hard to miss that your name, Klingenberg, grocery store of choice for students, poor people is drastically involved in the names of these proj- and Grapevine reporters, even though their veg- On July 4, three visual artists will open an exhi- It was apparent that he wasn’t too happy be- ects, so you seem to be the top dog of ‘em all? etables are often sworn to the dark side and their bition in Kling&Bang Gallery on Laugarvegur 23. ing categorised with neither of these generations “Well, to me the name Kling&Bang only rep- selection is ghastly. They also sell rather shoddy This exhibition is in fact a reunion, for the exact that he mentioned, so I decided to get to the bot- resents two chords but of course it is undeniable Bónus-brand sandwiches for the meagre price combo of artists opened another installation ten tom of it all. And how do you exactly classify your that they bear quite a resemblance to my name. To of 139 ISK. Their shrimp sandwiches should be years ago. I had made an appointment with one generation? my defence it wasn’t actually me who suggested avoided, unless you have a mayo-fetish, but the of the three artists opening their new installation “Well, to begin with we are the last offspring of this name but one of my associates, but we were tuna is often passable enough to warrant buying at Kling&Bang gallery on a sunny afternoon and the Cold War, but the difference between us and in this six or seven together. It was fantastic taking during times of trouble. I would recommend the was forced to abandon my fine spot on Austurvöl- other Cold War progenies lies in the fact that we part in all this excitement and when we opened absurdly cheap instant noodles they sell, but I am lur and head up to Hverfisgata. As soon as Erling experienced the conclusion of it, which of course Kling&Bang on Laugarvegur a new dimension highly sceptical of them containing any real nutri- Klingenberg opened up for me, and asked me if I moulded our ideas a lot. We were young when kind of opened to us. Both the name and the logo tion. So I won’t. wanted a beer with a low-keyed grin on his face, there wasn’t any TV on Thursdays, but we were are though incidental e.g. we found an old print I realised I was in for a ride. The remains of the also developing our style when it was broadcast- between two of the bricks in the chimney, which Cheap nothing previous exhibitions were still in the main hall ed 24/7. We didn’t exactly study in the old school had our incumbent logo on it, some ancient Dan- Always worth mentioning is the absurd pricing and some enthusiastic tourists were making weird establishment where the old sharks learned how ish Colony representing sign. And the name was of the so-called “clock stores” (24, 10-11 and 11- hisses and gasps so we moved over to a more ob- to paint landscape, but we didn’t either study in simply chosen out of a whole bunch of smart 11) and for newcomers there is a rule of thumb to scure area of the gallery, where we could be to the new and fancy Icelandic Academy of Arts. We ideas that came along.” be learned: an Icelandic grocery store should be ourselves. When he had lit up the first of many seem to bridge a lot of gaps. We’re kind of a bridge And this July 4 when you reunite, what can we avoided at any cost if it has a number in its name. cigarettes that afternoon I decided just to go for between the two artist stereotypical generations expect, what has changed? This is because every product there is double the it and asked him to depict the concept of the 10- known in Iceland.” “To tell you the truth I simply do not know, reasonable price, so even if you can afford to shop years-ago installation for me and describe how it has anything changed? This is our personal pay- there on account of the five jobs you work, it still all began. off which lets us reminisce a bit and determine feels remarkably like unsolicited anal sex. There “Me and Ásmundur and Magnús had all met Well, to begin with we are the last in what way we have changed and what we pres- are only a few instances where it is justifiable to while we were studying Visual Arts at the estab- offspring of the Cold War, but ently represent. We decided to keep the date July shop at a “clock store”, such as experiencing an lishment, which the present name is the Visual 4 for these reasons but of course the artist society Extreme Grocery Emergency or to make fun of the Arts Department of the Icelandic Academy of Arts, the difference between us and wasn’t nearly as anti-America ten years ago as prices. And also if you want to meet Lord Sauron but whilst we studied there it was simply called other Cold War progenies lies in it is today. Young artsy dandies would probably in person, as rumour has it that he works as shift- the Icelandic School of Embroidery and Painting. never even consider launching an exhibition on manager at their Austurstræti branch on Sundays. After we all finalised our studies we headed to the fact that we experienced the this exact date, unless in some kind of parody pur- Otherwise: don’t say you weren’t warned. North America, both of them to the United States conclusion of it, which of course poses.” and myself to Canada, and that’s the reason for And just after he released this last sentence he Found any cheap stuff you’d like to share? Or some the date of the opening, July 4, the date itself kind moulded our ideas a lot. stubbed out his cigarette with admirable accura- overpricing you’d like to complain about? Send a of links us all together. The Museum of Modern cy, nothing was to be left lit. So I decided treat the note to our resident miser: [email protected] Arts fitted perfectly to our longings and so it was interview as delicately as Klingenberg had treated chosen as our premises. We had built up unortho- his cigarette and pressed stop. dox ideals in our work, which really differentiated But one must wonder what has happened in these us from other Icelandic artists; you could say we ten years, you have probably been up to a whole INFO are stuck in a gap between the old heroes and the galaxy of different things. So tell us, what have you Artists at the verge of something - II new krútt-generation. Since then a lot of time has been up to? Gallery Kling&Bang Laugarvegur 23 passed and our emphases have probably changed “Woof, that’s a big one. My associates have July 4 - August 10 a lot.” spent most of their time overseas but I for one www.this.is/klingogbang

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INFO Artists at the verge of something - II Gallery Kling&Bang Laugarvegur 23 July 4 - August 10 www.this.is/klingogbang

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FLÍSAVERZLUN Bæjarlind 4 - 201 Kópavogur S:554-6800 Fax:554-6801 Njarðarnesi 9 - 603 Akureyri S:466-3600 Fax: 466-3601 www.vidd.is 16 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

OPINION BY Nathaniel Flagg — PHOTO BY GAS

When I was packing my bags to come to Ice- land, one criterion stood out in particular: “Don’t look like an American tourist. Don’t look like an American tourist,” I told myself, weeding out hiking boots and flip-flops in favour of nondescript sneakers and sandals. There is a general stigma that comes with being an American in a foreign country. When I went to China a few years ago, we were taught that to avoid a nasty confrontation we were to announce that we were Canadian if out nationality ever came up. Americans are frequently dismissed as obnoxious and inconsiderate. There’s the classic example of the American foreigner asking for directions from a bewildered local, shouting in highly annunciated English as if he were address- ing someone who was mentally disabled. Ameri- cans can also be considered manipulative and opportunistic, shoving people aside who would get in their way of fully exploiting a situation. When considering these stereotypes, it's not difficult to see a parallel with American international policies. America has a habit of only ac- knowledging the rules put forward by the rest of the world when it is in its best interest (e.g. the Kyoto Protocol, the authority of the UN, the Gene- va Conventions). America is often compared to a bully, headbutting its way through regulations, as- serting its superiority over other countries and the preeminence of its opinions. America has a lot to answer for, and when an American arrives in your country, that burden falls on them to redeem. BORN IN THE U.S.A. So then, how does Iceland hold up on the scale of prejudice against Americans? Are they higher or lower than normal? I had read (for the sake of honesty, in my travel guide) that Iceland- The Ambassador ers were a tolerant people and slow to make as- sumptions. Likewise, I’d heard stories of Ameri- Grapevine makes an investigative report on Icelandic prejudices cans being physically assaulted by Icelanders. What to believe? This issue, Grapevine decided to against Americans - It’s harder than it sounds. get to the bottom of this prejudice among Iceland- ers. We sent me, an American, out in the world to document my experiences in Iceland, the adversi- ties or lack thereof that I would face with regard to when I am a Democrat, and talk with a southern be myself. Wasn’t that American enough? I dream “You should put that in your article,” my my nationality. accent when I am actually from New York. Giving big, celebrate my freedom, and have a soft spot in friends said to me. However, there were still a few hurdles. Gen- me a look-over, they said my heart for my mother’s apple pie. Despite how “Perhaps I will” I said. And I have. erally speaking, I’ve never been supportive of the “How are you going to pull this off?” Icelandic I may seem or how progressive I am, that But what does it prove? That all Icelanders, if path our nation has taken in recent years; I’m kind “I don’t know.” I said. can be American too. It is. I’m living proof. I put drunk enough, will reveal that they are definitive- of a hippie, and I’ve had a few “I’m going to move I tried anyway. For a few days I tried my best windbreaker and camera away. ly and irrevocably prejudiced against Americans? to Canada” moments. In other words, I don’t quite to look less like me, and more like an “American”. I may have discovered one man’s prejudice, but “fit the mould.” In fact, I’m often mistaken for an I wore plainer clothes – jeans, a t-shirt and sneak- then discovering a nation’s prejudice, isn’t that… Icelander. And having picked up a significant ers – along with more touristy things – windbreak- America has a lot to answer for, well, a little prejudiced? I can’t proof that every amount of Icelandic, I can perform daily tasks er, camera, and a travel guide poking out of my and when an American arrives in Icelander in the bar that night was thinking that like buying groceries and saying hello to people pocket. I spoke only distinctly American English, exact same thing. In seeking Icelandic prejudice, on the street without exposing myself. Somehow, I but I chickened out on all the acting like a jerk your country, that burden falls I just happened upon my own. Damn. Every beast needed to become more American. stuff. Even in the tourist outfit, I gathered no more on them to redeem. devours its own tail. (or less) attention than I necessarily deserved. I As self-evident as it seems, no country, no Doing Double-Duty behaved decently, and so did everyone else I met. group of people are uniform. It isn’t as if they act But, America is a big place. I can even name Apart from getting funny looks for wearing what under a singular entity making the same decisions a lot of distinct Americas within that America. appeared to be a raincoat in the warm sunshine, It All Starts with You and opinions for everyone. Nations and groups The only national trend I can identify would be I was just an American guy walking around Reyk- One weekend when I was in my normal clothes, are collections of individuals, and you can meet a strong sense of capitalist ambition, which is a javík minding his own business. I soon started get- I was having a drink in a bar with a few friends. all sorts of those. There are prejudiced Icelanders, bit abstract to wear on one’s sleeve. I looked and ting bored with the article, angry even. Like a moth to a candle a very drunk Icelandic just as there are rude, pushy, obnoxious Ameri- acted like most of my American friends, but this What had I been expecting? If I was going to man, hearing my American English, came up to cans somewhere in that big country. And there clearly wasn't effective enough in displaying my be polite, everyone else would be polite to me, me, stuck a finger in my face and began growling: are polite and friendly Americans, and Icelanders nationality. Unable to conceptualize my national too. If I was going to act like a jerk, people would “And hey you, I’ve seen you, I’ve seen you take off who will pull a rowdy drunk away from a stranger. dress, I asked a few Icelanders for help. To appear just treat me like a jerk. What was there to be those glasses I know you don’t need them, they Each of us is our own person; we all make our American, they recommended I do the following: gained? The only thing I could make from acting make you look gay, you fucking gay American…” own actions. Also, everyone makes judgements, I should wear flip-flops, shorts, a windbreaker, a like a boor would be a just another poor example And then a few people pulled him away and he and we must all be ambassadors of our groups baseball cap, running shoes, polarized athletic of my own countrymen. The persona I had tried skulked off grumbling to himself. and mind our manners. America needs to work sunglasses, a polo shirt, and tote a big fat camera to put on myself was not American but a hollow After a round of uncomfortable laughter, we on its diplomacy, true enough. So does everyone. around. I should be obnoxious where I am mild, caricature based on the prejudices not only of composed ourselves, watching him disappear be rude where I am polite, say I’m a Republican my friends, but me as well. I might as well only back into the crowd.

Licensing and registration of travel- related services

The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet website. Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the Icelandic Tourist Board.

List of licenced Tour Operators and Travel Agencies on: visiticeland.com REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008 | 17 ÏHA:CH@6 H>6#>H;A:)%.&+%*#'%%-

I6@:6A>IIA:E>:8:D;>8:A6C9=DB:L>I=NDJ

6iAZ^[jg:^g^`hhdc6^gIZgb^cVandjl^aa[^cYVl^YZhZaZXi^dc d[>XZaVcY^XhdjkZc^gh!egdYjXihVcYYZh^\clVgZhViiVm VcYYjin[gZZeg^XZh#:kZgni]^c\ndjcZZYidbV`Zi]Zig^e id>XZaVcYVcZkZgaVhi^c\bZbdgn!ViWZiiZgeg^XZ# 18 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

ARTICLE BY Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir — PHOTOs BY GAS Deafening Silence Rally by Iceland’s most influential musical talents pleases aesthetically, aurally, but forgets message

Sigur Rós, despite their success, is a band that is still on it’s flower-like hair ornaments. The wind was blowing eager- way out of Iceland. In a way, they are still local. It wasn’t ly and tugged playfully at the band, moving the glistening so long ago that they were a small-time Reykjavík band, plastic draping the stage into a symphony of movement and you can still spot them walking down Laugavegur ev- while the audience, bathed in harsh sunlight and swaying ery once in a while. Björk, meanwhile, is a performer that along with the wind, looked on as though in a trance. Icelanders have somewhat begun to resent because of her The highlight of Sigur Rós’s set, and arguably of the whole success. She is like the daughter that grew up, moved out concert, came when Björk and Ólöf Arnalds joined on of the house and doesn’t call us anymore. While the free stage during Goobledigook in jumping up and down and concert in the name of Náttúra was undoubtedly feeding cathartically beating drums. Despite whatever reserva- into a certain marketable image beneficial to all parties tions you may have about Sigur Rós’s music or about the involved, it was done in the name of an idea that, in its merit of the concert as a whole, the song was undeniably purest and most uncomplicated form, every Icelander captivating to watch simply because of the clear and or- could stand behind. ganic thrill of the performers on stage. It was possibly the It was only almost 17:00, but the event had received most fun I have ever had watching musicians perform, enough local and international hype to warrant the ex- ever. pectation of a sizable audience right from the concert’s Towards the end of Sigur Rós’s set I was hoisted up offset. In an unfittingly dramatic beginning, my comrades to see that the garden was filled to its brim with tiny little and I climbed a 2-meter long wrought-iron fence in an ef- heads, (later estimated to be around 30,000 concertgo- fort to reach Þvottabrekka and avoiding the congestion of ers,) peaking for the night’s final set. crowds flooding Grasagarðurinn’s main entrance. Björk took the animal metaphor to a new level, dressed Upon arrival, the crowd of early birds turned out to in a spotted rainbow-coloured headdress that made her be much more moderately sized than I had expected; resemble some glamorous human koala bear. Prancing fringed by rustling trees and enormous hanging speak- around the stage barefoot, licking her lips before unleash- ers, about a hundred people sat camped on blankets and ing her lyrics, she looked like a spectacular animal of her chairs in front of the empty stage. Images of natural trea- own creation, dancing about and whipping her arms with sures in danger of ruination for the sake of heavy industry seeming instinctual flair. flashed across a screen to our left, along with photographs On the big screen Björk was magnified both in size sprawled with the words “already destroyed.” Politicians and audience, broadcast to a global audience of 2.6 mil- smiled triumphantly on the screen as we luxuriously lion (according to the U.N.) via National Geographic’s spread a blanket on the grass about 20 meters from the World Music Website. Although the crowd was riled up stage. and thrilled and Björk’s set superbly professional, it all At around 17:30, concertgoers started streaming into must have looked much more purposeful via satellite the park en masse. There was nothing to do but wait and than it did from 10 meters from the stage. watch, while Finnbogi Pétursson and Curver’s soft am- Even from way up close the message was hazy. De- bience, which I mistook at first for an extended sound- spite the informatory slideshow, the hook that would have check, ushered in the unrelenting swarm of concertgo- made the concert as momentous and as noble as it pur- ers. The sun shone, everyone ate Stjörnumix, and I could ported itself to be, the accessible message, was missing. see almost no one who had yet started drinking. The voice of the artists, the connection of their music to “I’m going to say this in English for the English-speaking the message and the message to the audience was not audience” Ólöf Arnalds declared to a big cheer when she vocalized by either of the headlining acts. had taken the stage in a black, sparkly marching band- After Björk’s grand encore where she commanded her esque jacket. “I’ve never done a concert standing up in army of brass with throws of her hands, chanting “Nát- my life, but tonight I’m standing and I’m also standing in túra! Náttúra!” the crowd dispersed to reveal a blanket of these big shoes because I’m standing up for nature!” trash. As I survey the scene a woman looks at me and says The crowd around me, despite being comparatively close indignantly, “What is it that we’re supposed to be fighting to the stage, was watching the live footage on the screen for?” before leaning over to collect the half-full bottles of rather than the stage itself. Ólöf was cheerful and talk- Icelandic Spring Water into a plastic Bónus bag. ative, despite a generally timid response from the audience, and a pair of Americans sitting in front of us turned around to ask bemusedly who she was. Delivering a short WHERE set of mostly new material with her usual earnestness, Grasagarðurinn, Laugardalur Ólöf affirmed her deft ability to write simple songs that are sweet without being corny. WHEN As soon as she had left the stage, the crowd, finished Saturday, June 28 with their lazing and their snack foods, stood up in anx- ious anticipation of the co-headliners, Sigur Rós. After a WHO short wait the band walked on stage and began playing Ghostigital without a word to the audience. A few songs in I began Ólöf Arnalds to wonder if they were going to address the crowd at all, Sigur Rós if not the issue at hand, when Jónsi finally spoke: “So, is Björk everyone in a good gear?” Then, conclusively, “We’re going to play a song off our new record.” As the opening notes rang out, a group of pre-teens started to scream and jump up and down with joy. “It’s a little bit cold,” Jónsi interjected before the next song, “there’s no sun on the stage.” The on-stage action during Sigur Rós’s gig played out like some perfectly adorable fairy-tale. The band beat drum sticks and bows to shreds on their instruments and romped on wooden flutes to raw and animalistic cli- maxes. Giant white balloon-like lanterns on stage lit up in various arrangements and white smoke drifted from somewhere back on the stage, while Amiina puttered about like brightly dressed decoration, adorned with

Björk took the animal metaphor to a new level, dressed in a spotted rainbow-coloured headdress that made her resemble some glamorous human koala bear. Dinner Show 18.30-19.30 in the Viking Village juli 6th - august 6th Price 3.500 is kr www.vikingvillage.is Tel.: 565-1213 Vikingfeast every night from 20:00

Audun was a poor Icelandic young man from the Western Fjords. He was lively and much appreciated. Audun was adventurous and wished to get out and have a look around in the world, but he was in the service of a Norwegian man, Tore, who spent the winter in Iceland. He worked for Tore all that winter, and in payment he was going to be allowed to go away with him on his ship. Now that spring had come, and the ice was breaking, the ships were equipped and made ready in all harbours. Everybody wanted to get out to find… wealth, adventure, new land! Audun hopes to return home from his travels after three years. Tore and Audun heads for Greenland and there Audun byes a domesticated polar bear. He has an idea to give it to King Svein of Denmark. On his way to Svein he meets King Harold of Norway, Sveins worst enemy. But in spite of that, with his courage and conviction he makes Harold to give him permission to go to Svein with the bear. King Svein is grateful and gives Audun money to go to Rome. At King Sveins Audun gets both friends and enemies! On the way back from Rome Audun becomes ill and nearly dies, but manage to get back to Denmark. But King Svein doesn’t recognise him anymore. What shall he do? He has done everything he promised. Everything he wanted to do. Will he be able to come back to Iceland? Will he survive? Is this how he was supposed to live the rest of his life as a beggar? The Tale of Audun: A company of four actors plays all the characters from Greenland in the west to Rome in the south in this Viking age ”road saga” from 10 century!

Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com 20 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

INTERVIEWS BY VALGERÐUR ÞÓRODDSDÓTTIR — PHOTO BY GAS

ÁSA: Try something new. Mammút KATA: Yeah, get fresh ears to listen, you know. ALEXANDRA: That was exactly the case with a THE GRAPEVINE: Since the first record came concert we played at Organ last week, because The Sweaty out in 2006, you’ve had a change in your line-up, our single [Svefnsýkt] has been in frequent play switching out your bassist for Ása. Other than the on The X, and we played this concert, and we logistics, or perhaps because of them, have there hadn’t played in a long time, and all of a sudden been any other changes within the band? we were seeing these new faces. The majority of ALEXANDRA: Maybe just that when we started the people there were people that we had never Musical Armpit we were more just like acquaintances, we didn’t seen before, just people who listen to The X at know each other extremely well. Since then we’ve work or something. travelled overseas and been together a significant ÁSA: It was so funny because they sort of didn’t amount of time, so we’ve become more like best know how to act, like when everyone was getting friends. a beer before the concert started, they were just ÁSA: More like a whole. standing there, ALEXANDRA: So we’re also maybe more honest ALEXANDRA: You could kind of tell apart the and forthright with each other when we’re writing people who frequent concerts and the people songs. who don’t. ÁSA: We can fight and still be O.K. ÁSA: Not the usual concert rats. KATA: I think that really comes out on this new ALEXANDRA: Which was a lot of fun. record. We’ve become a lot closer and I think the ÁSA: Crazy fun. music has changed because of it. Also this new re- THE GRAPEVINE: I think it’s interesting that you cord has all these crazy pop-speculations. I think have a majority of girls in your band, that there it’s very poppy, or at least, much more poppy than are three of you considering how few women the first one. there are generally in bands here, especially rock ALEXANDRA: Right before we went into the stu- bands. There are women in the pop and elec- dio we were really thinking that the record would tronica scene a little bit, but in rock bands there be too heavy, too hard, because there were some are very few. What are your thoughts as to why melodies that weren’t completely finished and that is? such. But that changed really quickly as soon as ÁSA: Maybe just shyness or something. It’s such we started recording. like, a sausage fest. THE GRAPEVINE: You hadn’t planned to make it KATA: Yeah I think it’s something like that. lighter when you entered the studio, it just sort of ÁSA: But I mean, I think every girl wants to be in evolved that way? a band. KATA: Yes. ALEXANDRA: It’s much easier than it looks. ÁSA: In a completely positive way. KATA: When we formed our band we were just KATA: We had somehow decided that this record three girls starting out and we weren’t thinking would be really heavy but then somehow our of ourselves as a rock band more than anything minds changed mid-process and it just started else, but then we started thinking why girls aren’t getting more and more poppy. more in rock bands. That’s just something really THE GRAPEVINE: Since you formed the band strange, why that isn’t the case. right before Músíktilraunir 2004, and since you ALEXANDRA: I don’t know if it plays into it at all, released your first record 2006, how have your ex- but in the scene that we’re playing in there is of pectations as a band changed? course a lot of mess and a lot of partying and a lot ALEXANDRA: It’s always somehow been just one of hassle. Like the way it is in Reykjavík you have step at a time. We started with trying to win some to be your own roadie and you’re essentially just song competition, and then that was the biggest paying to be in a band. Paying for rehearsal space feat we could imagine, and then it turned into and equipment and all that. It’s a lot of... competing in Músíktilraunir. ÁSA: Hassle. KATA: And when we competed in Músíktilraunir THE GRAPEVINE: And girls are less interested in and won, you know, we hadn’t even started dream- hassle than boys? ing of giving out a record, and then once we did ÁSA: Yeah (laughs) that, then that was the absolute best we could ALEXANDRA: Yeah, maybe it’s just that some girls ever do, we couldn’t go any higher than that. Now don’t want to bother dealing with the hassle of this we’ve topped ourselves again, and we’re giving penis-rock scene. And I mean you don’t necessar- out another record, but now maybe we’re allow- ily get a lot more out of playing than maybe you ing ourselves slightly higher expectations, it just know, three beers at the bar, or something. comes with the territory I think. ÁSA: Or not. ALEXANDRA: We’ve been such a luck band, or ALEXANDRA: Or not. Mostly not. at least I feel like we’ve achieved a lot compard to how we... WHO ÁSA: Suck? Mammút ALEXANDRA: Compared to how incredibly un- diligent we are at promoting ourselves. There has MEMBERS been a lot that just sort of fell into our hands and Alexandra Baldursdóttir (Guitar) people have had contact with us... Vilborg Ása Dýradóttir (Bass Guitar) THE GRAPEVINE: Well you’ve had some experi- Andri Jakobson (Drums) ence playing abroad and with foreign journalists Katrína Mogensen (Vocals, keyboard) who have received you well. Are you not thinking Arnar Pétursson (Guitar) in terms of exporting yourselves or your music? ÁSA: We really want to go on tour, just something ACTIVE small. Maybe around Europe or the States. Since 2003 ALEXANDRA: Either way really, I mean if it was offered to us, of course. DISCOGRAPHY ÁSA: We want just as much to tour Iceland, I think Mammút (debut, 2006) that would be hugely fun. Like at first, we were going to have the record in English, and then all of a sudden we realised, no, we speak Icelandic, we’ll sing in Icelandic. KATA: And also it just wasn’t coming out naturally in English. ÁSA: We were just thinking of how it could be received abroad, and of course you shouldn’t think that way. THE GRAPEVINE: So you trust in the scene here, in Reykjavík, as far as the reception and all that? It is enough? ÁSA: Yeah, except of course there’s not a lot of money in it. KATA: Also, with playing just forever in Reykjavík, especially when you’ve been playing here a lot... because you’re not usually playing some fancy concert with good sound, you’re playing at Bar 11 where you can’t hear anyone and everything is really sketchy and there are guys on speed trying to head-butt you and stuff. So you know, that’s maybe also something that tickles you, as far as going abroad, that you want to sort of... REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008 | 21

This summer marks the advent of two exciting releases from two of the the years to try to minimise our expectations to- scene’s youngest and most promising rock bands. The sophomore release Slugs wards people. from Mammút, whose 2006 debut corresponds to the founding of their com- TEITUR: But we do actually have the expecta- tion of receiving equal coverage to everyone else. peers Slugs; the debut album from the latter is expected to be released by THE GRAPEVINE: When and how did the band form? If a reviewer is unhappy with the record then we the end of the month. The Grapevine sat down with Teitur and Geirharður GEIRHARÐUR: The band formed in 2006 with would rather they give us zero stars than some two. of Slugs, and members of Mammút, Alexandra, Ása, and Kata to discuss the intention of making Rockabilly music. That If they want to give us zero then they should give the grunt of young rock in Reykjavík. went horribly wrong and out of it came this out- us zero. We don’t want to get something like, “Hey, rage that we have on the record. At first it was just you did a nice job here, good first try,” or “it will me and Sindri and Heisi, just a guitar, singing and be fun to see what these guys do in the future.” No, drums, and we composed maybe five songs or I don’t want any of that, I just want to hear, “you something. Sindri tried playing the bass while he guys shat on yourselves, better luck next time, go sang, and then at our second or third concert he to hell” or something like that. did that, and Teitur saw that concert and thought GEIRHARÐUR: It’s much better to be crapped on it was ridiculous that Sindri was stuck to the mic- than to hear that you’re doing good things. I think stand because he had been used to running all it’s like that with most of the music that I find most over the place raising hell. He voiced that and enjoyable, that people tend to have very divided then it occurred to us that it was opportune that and strong opinions on the band. In my opinion Teitur play the bass, and it worked out pretty well. it’s a very good sign for a band if there are some THE GRAPEVINE: What about the name, where people who hate it, just as it’s a good sign if some- does it come from? one likes it. GEIRHARÐUR: It comes originally from a movie THE GRAPEVINE: So you’re asking that you be called Slugs, which is about man-eating slugs. We crapped on if you deserve it? decided that it was a good name when we dis- GEIRHARÐUR: If someone who listens to the covered that this word can have many alternate record thinks it deserves it, I hope they’ll let them- meanings. We found that refreshing and then it selves be heard. wasn’t until later that we realise that it works in [Guðmundur Einar enters] Icelandic too, then we started calling ourselves GUÐMUNDUR: What do you think about saying: Slugs [with an Icelandic accent]. an old legend tells of Fjörulalli. I really wanted TEITUR: It can mean a snail; it can mean a sledge- to talk about Fjörulalli, I think it would be really hammer.... funny in English... “Old Icelandic folklore, some- GEIRHARÐUR: It can also mean like a bullet, thing... talks about the Fjord Lalli.” and a shot glass maybe, but that may not be right. GEIRHARÐUR: Are you talking about folklore or TEITUR: And then just to be a sluggard, essen- are you just making it up? tially to loaf. GUÐMUNDUR: You’ve never heard of the Fjord THE GRAPEVINE: Up to this point, how active Lalli? have you been as a band as far as playing and per- GEIRHARÐUR: No. forming? Have you been playing more in anticipa- GUÐMUNDUR: It’s some kind of man who walks tion of the record? around the shore and has a cloven foot if I remem- TEITUR: We took a stretch in the spring where we ber correctly. were playing maybe two or three times a week. TEITUR: Then we have to connect it to us. “He We’re going to play in the east and north between was known for being a slug.” July 10–20, at the festivals Eistnaflug and LungA, GUÐMUNDUR: Or he was known for eating chil- among others. dren that slugged. THE GRAPEVINE: How has the reception been? GEIRHARÐUR: Yes exactly, that’s what I want to Where has it been particularly good? hear. TEITUR: The reception’s been respectable, gen- GUÐMUNDUR: [in scary voice] “and he ate chil- erally. Especially at Bar 11, and Dillon. Not at Kaffi dren that slugged” Rót. TEITUR: And that is precisely what these men do, GEIRHARÐUR: No. that are living. TEITUR: Kaffi Rót is a shit-place. THE GRAPEVINE: Just so we have it clear, what GEIRHARÐUR: Just completely, horrible atmo- exactly do you do in the band Guðmundur? sphere there. TEITUR: He’s our new manager. TEITUR: Kaffi Krókur was also a kind of inter- THE GRAPEVINE: Officially? esting place. That was more of like... we were for GEIRHARÐUR: No. show, that we were just some kind of freaks. Be- THE GRAPEVINE: As their new unofficial man- cause everyone just sat in their seats and stared ager/spokesman/enthusiast, what do you think at us. of Slugs, Guðmundur? Why are you interested in GEIRHARÐUR: And looked at us with a kind of... working with them? some with a look of wonder, many with a look of GUÐMUNDUR: What I think Slugs have, first and disdain, and then there were a few people milling foremost, is some kind of unharnessed energy about with some mixture of the two. of the Icelandic forces of nature, that somehow TEITUR: We started the concert by breaking doesn’t manage to appear anywhere else in the some tables, accidentally, and then spilling beer world as much as in long-haired new-age Vikings. all over, right into people’s faces. Then we played It’s something that the world needs to know, that and after we left the place burned down. the Vikings of the modern day do not belong in THE GRAPEVINE: Like, directly thereafter? the stock exchange, they don’t belong in analysis TEITUR: Well, like maybe a week later. departments, but rather they belong in the bub- GEIRHARÐUR: That place had seen its most bling, sweaty musical armpit, with a tattoo on beautiful flower. their shoulders. TEITUR: So I think we held the last concert GEIRHARÐUR: You mean basically that they be- there. long in the shit. THE GRAPEVINE: Do you see yourselves as fill- GUÐMUNDUR: They belong in the shit. ing some void in the scene? TEITUR: They belong in the streets of Reykjavík. TEITUR: Yeah, there’s maybe a vacancy that forms GUÐMUNDUR: They belong amongst the mass- when bands try to follow some scene, and that’s es. kind of what happens, when everyone chooses some trend to follow, before they’ve really even formed the band. There’s a void for freshness. WHO GEIRHARÐUR: Like if we had for example suc- Slugs ceeded in making rockabilly music, we maybe wouldn’t be standing out in any way, but there’s MEMBERS still enough going on here, I don’t know if I can Heiðar Már Aðalsteinsson (Drums) elaborate on it in any way that I care to attempt Sindri Eldon (Vocals) but... if it’s so that there is a need for bands that Teitur Magnússon (Bass Guitar) are doing just whatever comes naturally out of Geirharður Þorsteinsson (Guitar) them, then we are filling some void, otherwise we’re just... ACTIVE TEITUR: Stagnant. Since 2006 GEIRHARÐUR: Yes, treading water. THE GRAPEVINE: What expectations do you DISCOGRAPHY have for your success? (debut pending, 2008) TEITUR: None. THE GRAPEVINE: Are you just fooling around? TEITUR: No, absolutely not. We’re completely serious about what we’re doing, but we have no expectations. GEIRHARÐUR: Most of us have learned through 22 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

ICELAND SURVIVAL GUIDE INTERVIEW BY Steinunn Jakobsdóttir — PHOTO BY GAS

How to Survive an Earthquake by Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson

This fierce island of ours in the North can be a tough resort to say the least. Over the last few weeks we have witnessed recurrently what seems to be amongst the seamiest hazards known. In our last issue, Grapevine explained thoroughly what is most wise to do in the event of meeting a full grown polar bear while exploring Icelandic nature and now we keep up the good work for the frightened nation. Over the years it hasn’t Only been the dire encounters of polar bears that has made Icelanders as coarse as their incumbent condition can well be described as, but also the constant fear of earthquakes; one of nature’s most incessant powers. This spring we witnessed a few and another one can be expected at any time, therefore we have summed up a few pointers so we can all be as prepared as possible.

ONE To begin with, when you feel the earth shaking beneath your feet it is most likely your Martha from Spain, Rachel, Clair AND Chas Goemans from England. imagination playing tricks on you or your next- door-neighbour is having a raver in the next room causing your underlay to shake a little. To exam- How many volunteers come each year? ine if this is the case, simply close your eyes for a This summer we will have about 200 volunteers. second as if this was a bad dream. Conservation Volunteers Some stay for four months and others only a few days. Some come as part of their school or job TWO If the earthquake scenario is still factual A different experience of Iceland’s nature training, others because they want to experience when you open your eyes and you are indoors – Iceland’s nature. We therefore build our pro- drop, cover and hold on. The wisest thing is to get gramme so people can travel around. The fun is to under a table or bench to avoid any objects fall- see something different. Our volunteers can spend ing on you, and if there are no benches or tables You might not realise when hiking of the country’s most beautiful places. This event a week on Esja, a week in Laki and maybe two in the room sit up against a wall, most preferably in Skaftafell or climbing Mt. Esja will be celebrated with a grand birthday party in weeks in Ásbyrgi and so forth. We provide a place holding on to your legs. Wait until the ground has that the trails you are walking on Ásbyrgi this weekend. Grapevine caught up with to stay, usually camping in the highlands, and food stopped shaking and then check if you’re hurt. were all built by The Environment the project’s supervisor, Chas Goemans, and three and travel is included. of his newly arrived volunteers before they headed Working in the outdoors with a team of interna- Agency Conservation Volunteers. THREE If you are outside when you realise the out into the highlands. tional volunteers and working with nature is a dif- earthquake is not a figment of your imagination, Every summer, a group of interna- What is the nature of your work? ferent experience of Iceland. 15-20% of the people stay outside. tional volunteers arrive in Iceland Mostly it’s trail repairs. That is about 90% of what we have this summer are volunteers who have from all over the world to work we do. We have looked to other countries for how worked here before so they must find something FOUR After quakes are so common subsequently on nature conservation, build- to fix these trails and make them strong. We take they like. Not many tourists spend a weekend in to earthquakes that they can almost be consid- these skills from Europe or North America but Laki working with the rangers who can tell you ered inevitable, so don’t get back to your daily ing walking paths and helping because Iceland is unique in its ecology we have everything about the area. I think that’s what a lot routine just yet. You might have to return to your park rangers across the country. to consider other factors. We have to consider for of volunteers appreciate; it’s not the same as other save spot in a few minutes. Each year sees between 150 to 200 example what the frost will do and in England we forms of tourism. It’s a whole other level. volunteers from the ages of 20 to don’t have geothermal areas. So we design new Hopefully these pointers are useful when the next 60 completing up to 600 weeks of things in the areas here. We take these core skills If a tourist is getting bored of Reykjavík and one shakes our beloved ground. If not, at least we and develop them for the conditions in Iceland. would like to volunteer, can he or she just tried. work for free. Anyone can volun- What is your agenda? Is it nature conserva- show up? teer, even tourists on a weekend tion or making nature more accessible to Yes. You just simply contact us at The Environment trip who want to experience some- tourists? Agency and we can organise something. Most of thing more of Iceland than party- It’s a little bit of both but I have to say that the heart the projects are residential so it would be at least a ing in Reykjavík or looking outside of it is nature conservation. We feel that if we make weekend but they would be welcome to join in. good paths it can help protect the more fragile the bus. areas. In Dimmuborgir, for example, there were damages on the lava formations but one strong We don’t go into a pristine area, The programme, organised and sponsored by path improves safety for visitors and also protects like Hornstrandir for example, the Environment Agency in partnership with the the fragile area. Most often we make the paths British conservation volunteer organisation, is because of people, repairing damage that has al- and build paths everywhere. It’s celebrating its 30th year this July. In 1978, the first ready been done. We don’t go into a pristine area, more a response to damage.” team of volunteers built a wall in Jökulsárgljúfur, like Hornstrandir for example, and build paths ev- leading to many teams living and working in some erywhere. It’s more a response to damage.

Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, You save at the pink stations Hveragerði, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður Akranes, Hafnarfjörður, Súðavík Njarðvík, Sandgerði, Akureyri Egilsstaðir

Neskaupstaður Kópavogur, Neskaupstaður, Stykkishólmur Grundarfjörður Grundarfjörður, Hreðavatnsskáli we bring the o to sush Akranes Hveragerði Stykkishólmur, Súðavík, Reykjavík Sandgerði Selfoss Njarðvík Ísafjörður, Vík í Mýrdal Hafnarfjörður

and Hreðavatnsskáli have Vík more than just stunning The Orkan network is growing steadily, offering more savings throughout Iceland. Keep an eye out for the Orkan petrol stations and nature and beautiful take advantage of our lower prices. people in common! www.orkan.is

O s u s h i L æ k j a r g a t a 2 a Og Borgartún 29 I Sími : 561 0562 DYNAMO REYKJAVIK ARTICLE BY STEINUNN JAKOBSDÓTTIR

Cover of Rafskinna, designed by Linda Loeskow. Loads of Visual Fun! New Rafskinna DVD released

The second issue of Rafskinna DVD Magazine was WHAT released on July 3, stuffed with all kinds of visual Rafskinna DVD Magazine. entertainment. Published by Rasskinn ehf, the magazine, which is the only one of its kind in Ice- WHO land, brings together a group of local and interna- Arcade Fire, múm, Björk, tional artists, musicians, designers and filmmakers The Rapture, Grizzly who get a new platform to present their work. The Bear, Oxsmá, Hreinn magazine features exclusive interviews, music vid- Friðfinnsson, Huldar eos, live performances, short-films and documen- Breiðfjörð, Músikvatur, taries, all on one DVD disc, with English subtitles Vibeke Bryld, Clark, of course. A print edition and some cool accesso- Alain De Botton, Takashi BOSTON ries are also included in the package. Homma and many more. Each issue has a different theme, this time it is BAR - LAUGAVEGUR 28B-2nd floor houses. “We for example have memory cards with WHERE tel. 517 7816 photos of houses on Laugavegur facing demolition. Sold in all major open 17-01 weekdays 17-03 weekends Biggi Veira (of GusGus) gives House-music-lessons, bookstores, record shops múm cruises in an RV, Hjaltalín plays live inside and fashion boutiques. a house and much more,” says Sigurður Magnús Finnsson who, along with Pétur Már Gunnars- son, Ragnheiður Gestsdóttir and Þórunn Hafstað, founded the magazine. The disc features some rare and juicy material. This includes Oxsmá Plánetan (The Oxsmá Planet), an 80s sci-fi short-film by art-collective Ox- smá. Directed by Óskar Jónasson, the film is one of the gems of Iceland’s film history but has never been released before. The issue also features an Arcade Fire music video, interview and BBQ with Ed Droste of Grizzly Bear, and Björk’s music video Wanderlust, to be watched with 3-D glasses that come with the DVD. The printed edition has plenty of written material, including an interview with British philosopher Alain De Botton (author of The Architecture of Happiness), articles related to the house theme and a fiction-serial by Örvar Þórey- jarson Smárason. With all this and more in one package, you will easily get to know the local art and music scene so head straight over to the nearest outlet and buy a copy.

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CD REVIEWS CONCERT REVIEW BY By Ben H. Murray — PHOTO BY GAS

THE VERDICT A solid release, which adds little new to an established catalogue.

LISTEN & BUY kimi.grapewire.net

Benni Hemm Hemm Murta St. Calunga reviewed by Sveinn BIrkir BJörnsson

Benni Hemm Hemm has reached a large number of fans with his brass-laden acoustic pop on his previous two albums. After a successful collaboration project with Swede Jens Lekman, Benni Hemm Hemm now returns with Murta St. Calunga, his third studio album. Overall, arrangements and song writing sound a little more sophis- ticated than on his last album, Kajak, although not very different. It contains all the innocence and sweetness that is possible to muster from a horn-section and acoustic guitars. Benni’s lyrics are entertaining and his humorous take on political issues on songs like Whaling in the North Atlantic and Avían í Afghanistan is refreshing. This is a very solid Benni Hemm Hemm release, if not entirely original.

THE VERDICT Icelandic folk-rockers Grjóthraun leave little to be excited about. SINGAPORE SLING IS EFFERVESCENT

LISTEN & BUY kimi.grapewire.net Sugar and Bass Make Singapore

Grjóthrun Sling Just Palatable Grjóthrun í Hólshreppi

Drone-laden psych rock is a difficult beast to employed to Kim Deal of The Pixies, Sling's Bíbi reviewed by Sveinn BIrkir BJörnsson tame – too much noise and feedback and it is one sassy rhythm queen. Anyone who heard WHERE sounds like an inglorious mess, too precise and and witnessed the frenetic riffs on 'Sugar' will un- Organ Grjóthrun is best described as authentic Icelandic folk-rock. It has energetic, well, it's something else they're play- derstand how unassumingly impressive she is on never been a music genre that inspires me with pride in my cultural ing. A happy medium is required and Singapore stage. Whilst the rest of the band put on a low-key WHEN heritage, but let’s focus on the positive: 1) I enjoyed the song Jónas, Sling just scraped into the latter category on a performance, sedate even, her confident manner Friday, June 20 not least because the lyric was written by the bass player when he was sweaty Saturday night in Organ. and driving pulses of ground-swelling low notes 11-years old; 2) the guitar sound is good, almost as good as the drum The opening bars of 'Sugar', some way into provided charisma to balance out the other band WHO sound is flat and horrible. I’ll skip the negatives, but let it suffice to say their set, was arguably the point where the six members’ apparent lack of enthusiasm for a late- Singapore Sling that otherwise, I didn’t enjoy this release. Fans of Þursaflokkurinn will piece achieved said happy medium. Driving, night weekend slot possibly more suited to a band undoubtedly find something of interest in this, but again, Þursaflok- droning rock in the style of The Fall crossed with with greater uplifting qualities. THE VERDICT kurinn has never inspired much pride in me either. I see this band The Velvet Underground, complete with Henrik That's not to say Organ wasn't packed, or Most people present playing staff parties and the occasional political rally in the future. Bjornsson's deadpan Lou Reed-style vocal de- that a majority of the audience weren't enjoying knew Singapore Sling can The political rallies will undoubtedly be organised by themselves. I’d livery, washed around the venue like sweet tast- Singapore Sling's rather epic set but, just as the play better than they did, recommend you skip this one, but some people enjoy challenges. ing fog on a summer's morning and had people 90s shoegaze scene was famous for "celebrat- but the evening still had dancing on tables to get a better view. 'Godman' ing itself" in certain parts of the world (fans and some classy moments. and 'Let’s Go Dancing' were received with equal bands all went to each other’s gigs thus creating enthusiasm, and rightly so. the buzz through their own presence), you got the Following a long tradition of female rock bass- feeling that it was the avid fans that made the at- ists, from the two The Smashing Pumpkins have mosphere rather than the band.

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P.S. Tickets are valid from any Icelandair gateway in Europe and the USA. These tickets are not valid from 15 June to 15 August 2009. Reykjavík Spa City reserves the right to use any submitted material for promotional purposes. www.spacity.is REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008 | 25

CONCERT REVIEW BY Nathaniel Flagg — PHOTO BY G.RÚNAR CD REVIEWS

THE VERDICT New Sigur Rós album falls just short of being great, but is still more than worthy of your attention.

LISTEN & BUY www.smekkleysa.net

Sigur Rós Með Suð í Eyrum Við Spilum Endalaust

reviewed by Sveinn birkir björnsson

Sigur Rós’ new release mostly finds them moving away from their trademark ethereal soundscape of long build-ups, breakdowns and crescendos, towards a more traditional pop-song formula. It is also the first Sigur Rós album I’ve really enjoyed since Ágætis Byrjun. This album is simply a lot more fun than Sigur Rós has been in a long time. The spunky Inn í mér syngur vitleysingur is a serious diversion from the band’s recent work, but still ranks among their best songs, while Góðann daginn maintains certain elements of that unique Sigur Rós sound and considerable tension in song structure, but still comes in at around five minutes. Ára bátur, the band’s nine-minute long choir and orchestra exercise, really does not sound at home on this record, living with these songs, as gigantically arranged as it is, but Festival, another nine-minute long song in more traditional Sigur Rós form, avoids that fate and serves as a nice change of pace here.

THE VERDICT Flawed in places, but distinctly listenable if you like inoffensive, slick CONDUCTOR DANÍEL BJARNASON WORKS HIS MAGIC WAND pop rock.

LISTEN www.myspace.com/ Formulaic but Fun hraunhraun

Hraun Since the release of his latest album, Murta St. ing one song from the other, since they all more Silent Treatment Calunga, no more than three weeks ago, Benni or less followed an identical formula. However, WHERE Hemm Hemm has been popping up in venues Benni Hemm Hemm’s indefatigable optimism and Iðnó reviewed by BEN H. MURRAY around Reykjavík with all the persistence of a spirit remained relentlessly charming. With music whack-a-mole. Most recently, Benni Hemm Hemm so upbeat, it’s hard not to crack a smile at least. WHEN was sighted at Iðnó, accompanied by the Icelandic A beautifully haunting rendition of ‘SnjórLjósS- Thursday, June 19 Hraun have taken a fair bit of stick from various corners of the Icelan- Youth Symphony Orchestra for a pleasant evening njór’ and the uplifting harmonies of ‘Friðþjófur og dic press. The issue most have with the band is that they aren't trying show. Benni Hemm Hemm has always kept a big Ingibjörg’ were two highlights of the concert, fully WHO to be different or unique and this often arouses an instant, and some- reserve of musicians at hand. So, expanding that taking advantage of the orchestra’s elegant detail- Benni Hemm Hemm times legitimate, form of musical snobbery. Does 'Silent Treatment' reserve to about 30 or 40 musicians comes as no ing. For a nice finish, The Orchestra put down all & Ungfónía change this view or is it more of the same? By the very nature of their real surprise. The performance attracted a loose of their instruments and instead raised their voices musical genre, the answer is obvious. crowd, comfortably sipping beers and occasion- to sing the last few bars, the audience quickly join- THE VERDICT The strongest track shares the same title as the album. Starting ally heading outside for a cigarette and a view of ing in to take the joyful anthem with them. Benni Benni Hemm Hemm with a gentle intro, featuring front man Svavar's warm voice and or- the pond, enjoying themselves throughout. Hemm Hemm’s music may be formulaic, but this creates repetitive, but gan accompaniment, 'Silent Treatment' builds a pretty picture with a I’ve always found Benni Hemm Hemm a little formula he’s found can be the key to truly spirited ultimately delightfully female vocalist and a clarinet adding pleasing complexity to a fine repetitive. He seems to grab on to about four bars and pleasant music. upbeat music. composition. Ironic, then, that the next one, 'Happy Song', is the worst and then repeats them ad nauseam, preferring to on the record. The other eight tracks sit somewhere between the two rely on the ensembles he amasses to introduce extremes but you could imagine 'Thunderball' going down an abso- any variation. This method can produce some lute storm after a session on the Brennivin. truly irritating songs that seem to be all chorus and Maybe Hraun, a band who can be genuinely good when seen no verse. After ceaseless repetition, even the pret- live, are the Brennivin of music – some laugh at anyone who tries tiest theme can quickly sour. Even watching this a bit, some lap it up as it can be pretty nice, and to others it's just a live performance, I had a difficult time distinguish- mildly pleasant winter warmer. 26 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

MUSIC INTERVIEW BY STEINUNN JAKOBSDÓTTIR — PHOTO BY GAS Kimi Records’ Summerjoy by Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson

Since the Akureyri based publishing company Kimi Records entered the fray of Icelandic publishers, the industry’s activity seems to have in- creased a great deal. I haven’t gone through a week over the last few months without hearing about some Kimi-artist concert or Kimi-distribut- ed-artist concert. That must count for something, unless it’s only the fact that Kimi Records jerk off their name in connection to concerts more severe- ly than other labels; nevertheless, Kimi are throw- ing this hot Summerjoy. This is some kind of a tour with the Kimi artists Benni Hemm Hemm, Borko, Morðingjar and Reyk- javík!. The tour’s virgin concert will be in Stokkseyri on the infamous Bastille Day, July 14. From there they will head to the capital of the Westfjords, Ísafjördur, and play at the House of Edinborough. The tour continues to Kimi’s home base at Akureyri and a lot of celebration is suspected, a bit of “Return of the King” atmosphere. Then there is Húsavík, LungA Art Festival in the East fjords, and finally before returning home to smoggy Reykjavík the posse will visit upon Höfn í Hornafirði. The grand finale will be held at NASA, July 23, where Kimi promises some surprise numbers. All the concerts start at 9PM and the ticket is 1,000 ISK. More information at www.kimirecords.net

NAMITA KAPOOR CONTEMPLATES HER DUAL IDENTITIES. This Festival Is Really Called French Fries and Religious Symbols ‘Flight of the Namita Kapoor exhibits a fusion of Western and Asian cultures

Testes” “My work is modern, it’s funny but it’s also very religion. I do them daily, it takes a lot of dedica- spiritual. It’s a play of many things blending,” says tion, meditation and sacrifice.” WHO South East Asian-American artist Namita Kapoor. Namita Kapoor by Haukur S Magnússon On July 5, she will open her first solo exhibition Religious Symbols in a Consumer Driven Culture in Iceland at Gallery Gel, located on the corner of The way Western and Asian cultures can inter- WHERE Eistnaflug chief Stebbi Magg is desperately cling- Klapparstígur and Hverfisgata. Entitled ‘Efferves- relate and influence one another is the subject Exhibition at Gel Galleri on ing to the notion that the festival he spearheads cent Delights’, her exhibition features a collection in one of Namita’s paintings, ‘Here Comes the Hverfisgata 37 isn’t exclusively a metal festival. That the roster of recent paintings she describes as a hybrid of Sun’, on the Grapevine’s info cover. The painting includes rocks indie- and punk- as well. “Just look Western media and Asian craft, ornaments and features two Buddhas meditating on top of the WHEN at our line up. There are bands playing from every symbolism. Earth with cow-legs (the cow is a sacred Hindu June 5 to 22 corner of the Icelandic music scene, pretty much, Drawing from her South East Asian heritage symbol), space rockets, French fries and astro- at least every corner that has a guitar in it,” he says and growing up in America, her paintings are a nauts circling around them. “The Buddha repre- INFO to me over the phone, and he is right. The line-up conjunction of famous Indian stories and iconog- sents the total enlightenment. The moon and stars www.namitakapoor.com for Eistnaflug 2008 is remarkably varied, and thor- raphy mixed with modern commercialism. Henna and sun act under him. At the same time, we see oughly exciting, and includes established punkers prints, religious symbols and sacred images are cow-legs circulating the planet along with French like Innvortis playing alongside legendary doom- pasted on the canvas and Indian fabrics layered fries and astronauts. You can ask, is this a refer- metallers Sólstafir, grindcore hellions Forgarður with different paint. The result is colourful pieces ence to the ultimate universe? Is this a reference Helvítis and the Kings of Icelandic Metal them- that pop out. to global warming? Or is it a reference to the way selves, HAM. that while everything becomes smaller things are That doesn’t change the fact that the festival’s Asia Meets America at the same time exploding?” name, Eistnaflug, literally translates to “Flight of Namita grew up in California but has visited In- Namita goes on to discuss how Western cul- the Testes”. And that only metalheads would be dia several times in the past years and says that ture tends to borrow religious symbols and icons so adorably juvenile as to choose that as their growing up with dual identities has influenced her to sell various products. “In America I’ve, for ex- moniker (indie bands have no balls by definition, work. “I grew up in America with all these differ- ample, seen Ganesha, this famous Hindu god that and punkers are more into bodily fluids). So while ent Indian stories and comic book images, but I represents the moving of obstacles, on a flip-flop. Eistnaflug isn’t a metal festival proper, it is most never really thought about them. In 2003, I had a People are buying these shoes with the god on it definitely a festival in the spirit of METAL. And really spiritual trip to India. I was blown away by and are attracted to it without necessarily know- that is the best spirit you can base a music festival Indian craft and Indian textile and started including what it means.” In her art she questions how on, for The Spirit of Metal is a friendly, happy and ing that in my work. On my trips to India I’ve col- these Indian images and religious symbols sur- welcoming one. lected Indian imagery, textile and fabrics. All of vive in a consumer driven culture, by for example “When we first did the festival, the people of these things are integrated into the paintings.” painting burger-mascot Ronald McDonald with Neskaupstaður [the small East Fjord town that’s She’s also a dancer and has toured exten- his hands in prayer like the Buddha. “The idea is been home to Eistnaflug from the beginning] were sively nationally and internationally with various to take the spiritual icons and misconstrue them. really surprised when this huge crowd that looked theatre and dance companies and says dance There is still an attraction to the initial image so like it had been shat out by Satan himself turned also plays a big part in her artwork. “I’ve always part of it is making a mockery of the images and out so friendly and polite. But that’s metalheads been dancing and painting but now I’m focusing the other is asking for it's true meaning. Does this for you, they get out their aggression elsewhere more on painting. Where dance comes into my change the image? Does it reinvent the image? than with violence.” art is in the movement in the paintings. When you Do we think of something spiritual or something Set to take place the weekend of July 10-13, watch them they’re exploding, twisting and turn- strangely bizarre when we look at it? It is a play on Eistnaflug 2008 features one of its most epic line- ing. There’s a lot happening.” By cutting-and past- these different identities, which leaves the viewer ups in the festival’s four year history and is a must ing images and mixing them she explains that the with room for a lot of questions.” stop on any rock-inclined traveller's schedule. stories, icons and myths become separate stories, To set off the exhibition, there will be a week The traditional stories become “Neskaupstaður is an hour's drive from Egilsstaðir, taken from the original ones. “The traditional sto- of Indian events at Cafe Oliver on Laugavegur, new fragmented concepts, and an eight hour drive from Reykjavík. It is one of ries become new fragmented concepts, which in connected to the exhibition. It will open on July the most beautiful towns in the country, and the turn represents my identity: a fragmented tapestry 5 with the exhibition at Gallerí Gel and an after- which in turn represents my festival is world class, even if you don’t know any of deeply religious things.” party at Café Oliver. June 10 will see a sari fashion identity: a fragmented tapestry of the bands. So pay us a visit,” says Stebbi. Those Asked if she is religious Namita replies: “I’m show, Indian food and live drumming. Namita will without transport should check out the car-pool very spiritual. I believe religion is following some- also offer Bollywood dance lessons and Henna of deeply religious things. section of festival web-site www.eistnaflug.is or thing religiously. But I believe that art and dance tattoos for free. the amazingly convenient www.samferda.net and these mediums in which I express myself are

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INTERVIEW BY Sveinn Birkir Björnsson — PHOTO BY GAS A Cosy Colonial Store Hemmi and Valdi want your whole family there

Cosy is a word that gets thrown around a lot. A lot ISK. “We pack up the baby clothes at night and more than it should actually. But sometimes, it is move on to the beer. The thinking is that during just the right word to describe a place that feels... the day, this should be a place for the whole fam- well, cosy. One of those places that truly is cosy ily, but in the evenings, this should be a place for is Hemmi and Valdi’s Colonial Store on Laugav- the parents to come and relax,” Valdi says. egur 21. Now, colonial store, on the other hand, is not a word (well, phrase really) that does not get thrown around a lot. In prehistoric times (i.e. be- We pack up the baby clothes at fore the 20th century), a colonial store was a place where you could buy imported groceries from the night and move on to the beer. colonial masters. In our case this involved Den- mark, and probably sugar. The modern day version, however, involves beer and baby clothes. But no colonial masters luckily. The reception has been excellent and plans “We were just looking for a good idea to ex- are already underway to expand the operation. ecute,” Valdi, one of the owners tells me. The idea “We have been scheduling jazz nights on Mon- they hit upon was to establish a family friendly days and Tuesdays, we are running a small market café / baby clothes store, where they could sell outside, and we are looking into getting people to cheap refreshments (and baby clothes) in a re- come and do face paint a few days a weeks for the laxed setting for the whole family. The store is kids and putting up football goals in the port be- located in an old house with big storefront win- hind the house,” says Valdi. Every Friday and Sat- dows, filled with old furniture that looks like it urday there is a musical performance, either a live belongs in your grandmother’s living room. Valdi band or a DJ, and the to-do list includes dances and Hemmi, who are both young fathers, wanted for elderly citizens in and a troubadour festival on to create a place where the grown-ups could sit July 17. down without having to worry about the children being bored after fifteen minutes. “We put a lot Hemmi & Valdi into making this a comfortable for the whole fam- Nýlenduvöruverslun ily,” Valdi explains. Laugavegur 21 But after dark (well, it is summer in Iceland, but you know what I am getting at), the place trans- forms into a nice little bar where the beer sells for a modest 550 ISK and a bottle of red wine for 1900 Hemmi & Valdi GET COsY.

ARTICLE BY HAUKUR S. MAGNÚSSON Lamenting a Dying Model Kjötborg shows how Icelanders have sacrificed community for krónur

Documentary Kjötborg was pre- brothers through the seasons, slowly getting the Due to popular demand, Kjötborg will be NAME viewed at the Skjaldborg film impression that something deeply important is screened at Háskólabíó this coming week- Kjötborg festival this spring, where it won being lost as the last of the neighbourhood stores end, English subtitles and all. Don’t fret if over the hearts of the audience, fight a losing battle against more efficient models you missed it though; this “popular demand” DIRECTED BY of consumption. Ultimately, Kjötborg is a por- has been keeping Kjötborg in theatres for a Helga Rakel Rafnsdóttir and along with the festival’s sole trait of a nation that has undergone some severe while now.” Hulda Rós Guðnadóttir award (an “audience award”, as changes in a short amount of time and what those it were). It was recently screened changes mean; it is a reflection on Icelanders’ MUSIC BY in Háskólabíó to great critical shifting values and aspirations, where they may Sindri Már Sigfússon and commercial response and will be leading us and what we may be losing in the process. RUNNING TIME ultimately make its way to local Kjötborg is bound to see lots of success, for it is 47 minutes television and DVD releases later the kind of film that stays with you for a long time this year. Furthermore, it is being after an initial viewing. It manages to raise thoughts shopped around to various inter- and make some very valid points without ever mak- national film festivals, where it ing an argument or reverting to any of the various propagandist tools available to filmmakers on a will surely win many other awards mission (even if it definitely has some tearjerker and go on to greater international moments). It draws you in with its combination of success. steady cinematic rhythm, pleasant views and care- fully placed music (by the excellent Sindri Már of Set in Vesturbær institution-slash-convenience Seabear fame) and refuses to let you go without store Kjötborg (“Meat City”!), the eponymous film giving some thought to what’s being discussed. documents the life of the store, its owners (broth- Directors Helga Rakel Rafnsdóttir and Hulda Rós ers Gunnar and Kristján) and some of its patrons. Guðnadóttir deserve all the praise that’s coming to A neighbourhood shop if there ever was one, them. Kjötborg is an entertaining, yet engaging film Kjötborg stocks pretty much everything its custom- and comes highly recommended. ers could ever need in its cramped quarters (and the proprietors will go to every length to acquire whatever’s missing) and has been servicing the Ultimately, Kjötborg is a por- community of Vesturbær for several decades. The trait of a nation that has under- brothers make sure to pander to their customers’ every need, delivering sandwiches to hunger strik- gone some severe changes in a ing mutineers at the old folks home and ensuring short amount of time and what a regular has enough chewing gum and chocolate after closing time (a popular story not included in those changes mean; a reflec- the film goes that the Kjötborg brothers actually tion on Icelanders’ shifting arranged one of their regulars’ funeral). The film features the brothers reminiscing values and aspirations, where about various milestones in Kjötborg’s history and they may be leading us and what times they’ve had whilst running it, interspersed with candid shots of daily life within the store we may be losing in the process. and interviews with select patrons. Shot over the course of a year (2006), we follow the Kjötborg A Cosy Colonial Store 30 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

NEWS BY BEN H. MURRAY DESTINATION BY Zoë Robert — PHOTO BY Zoë Robert

England's Blues to Lose in the Faroe Islands This Summer? We Wish.

Manchester City, the new Chelsea of English Premiership football (slightly dodgy overseas owner – check. Money wasted on dodgy players with names that sound like a pasta sauce – check. Blue kit – check) will, this summer, be getting on a plane to somewhere a majority of their players will never have heard of – the Faroe Islands – to contest a UEFA Cup spot with the mighty EB/Streymur. So, just how much of a monumental mismatch is this two-legged tie between a team that won the whole competition in 1970 and one that has never even finished top of its own domestic league competition? The Grapevine investigated and came up with some interesting comparisons.

- Although the match will probably be held at one of the bigger grounds in the Faroese capital of Torshavn (EB's home ground just about caters for 1000 fans), this will still be like the average Premiership player's back garden in comparison to the City of Manchester Stadium, capacity 47,700. The entire Faroese population could fit in this grand arena.

- Manchester City have spent over 4.7 billion ISK on players since their takeover by ex-Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, a man estimated to be worth 130 bil- WHO WOULD FOCUS ON FISH? lion ISK. His total personal wealth is equal to about one third of the entire annual Faroese GDP (Gross Domestic Product).

- The Faroese national football team is ranked 193rd in the world and most people think their full name is Faroe Islands Nil, apart from when they play Scotland. In Exploring Fishing Villages contrast, England are somehow ranked in the top ten national teams in the world of football despite their team being mostly populated by players who can't stay out of the tabloid newspapers and assorted other philanders, womanisers and thugs. in the Far Northwest See most of their defensive unit for examples of all three.

- Anyone who has ever been to the Faroe Islands will testify that it's one of the most beautiful places on earth, in comparison to Manchester – a city that has the With petrol prices at an all time high and unsealed, narrow road winds endlessly between the moun- nickname Gunchester due to its high crime rate and prevalence of housing estates a car suited to city streets, it didn't exactly tains on the one side, and the rocky, black sand coastline and districts where you really wouldn't go after dark without a bodyguard. No seem like the ideal time to go on a road on the other. Save the couple of cars that pass us, we are wonder their players are some of the most aggressive in English football (several alone on the road. The weather gods provide us with rare current and ex team members have criminal records), whilst the Faroe Islands are trip to the most remote region of a country (at least for the capital) warm, sunny and still conditions. It's populated by some of the most peaceful, friendly and contented souls you're likely already known for its exorbitant prices around 15°C but, as is often the case in Iceland, it feels warm- to meet outside of a hippy commune. and hazardous driving conditions. We set er – more like 20 plus °C. We take a stroll up the side of the off and arrive late in the evening at the mountain at Kaldbaksvík where a couple are fishing in the Roland Hojsted, EB's Chair, when asked about the tie, simply said: "What can they sleepy fishing village of Hólmavík, in the crystal clear waters of the lake. The rusty coloured mountain expect? They can expect to lose." We're not holding our breath, Roland, but if your vegetation, deep blue waters of the fjord and its lush green boys pull off one of the all-time great giant killings in the world of sport, then we'll eastern West Fjords in the far northwest surroundings offset the pastel blue skies. be the first to congratulate them. of the country, for a five day tour of the Eventually we come to the largely abandoned village of Feed them some of that dried pilot whale, washed down with a few pots of region starting with the eastern section Djúpavík, where the old herring processing plant, now hous- aquavit and a really old, chewy puffin steak for dinner the night before and your of the fjords and then travelling west and ing an exhibition on the industry, stands as a reminder of this chances will greatly increase. Good luck on July 17. then south. sleepy town’s more prosperous times. The Strandir coastline is lined with beaches littered with driftwood and flotsam – Hólmavík, the largest settlement in the area, is character- rope, nets, buoys, random plastic objects – and the odd seal ised by its traditional colourful corrugated iron houses and sunbathing on the rocks. It’s so sparsely populated around its picturesque harbour overlooking Steinsgrímsfjörður. Al- these parts, with only the occasional farm dotting the coun- though just a 270 km drive north of Reykjavík, the days here tryside, that we share the road only with the sheep and birds are noticeably longer. We watch the sunset fade into a pink- that inhabit these shores during the summer. Combined with ish haze on the horizon well after midnight. the rough roads, the animal and birdlife prove to be a hazard, forcing us to reduce speed to 30 to 40 kms an hour for much Strandir Coast of the way. Kría, or arctic terns, are notoriously aggressive at The next day we head off along the Strandir coast toward this time of year, repeatedly attempting to swoop our car and Norðurfjörður, which is as far as the dirt, all-too-often-bumpy, diving directly in front of the moving vehicle. On more than road will take us. The friendly owners of the guesthouse in one occasion the mating birds lay smack bam in the middle Hólmavík hadn’t visited the remote area in a few years but of the road, bringing our car to a halt. estimated that the drive would take around two hours. The

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A Pool in the Middle of Nowhere Iceland’s National Day More than four hours after leaving Hólmavík and a scenic, On our final day we drive back along the western fjords but slow, drive through nothingness, we arrive at our destina- through the 5 km tunnel, detouring to Suðureyri, yet another tion of Norðurfjörður – more specifically, the open-air geo- fishing village set in a stunning fjord, where we visit the local thermal swimming pool at Krossness. An eight hour return wool craft store. Being Iceland’s National Day, we take the drive to get to a swimming pool may sound a bit extreme, opportunity to also stop at Hrafnseyri, the birthplace of Jón but the simple, unattended pool we’re talking about, with its Sigurðsson, leader of Icelandic independence, where the car single hot tub, lies on a quaint pebbled beach with unob- park is quickly filling for a special ceremony. Sigurðsson’s structed views of the sea. The weather wasn't feeling so sum- former home is now a museum dedicated to his legacy and mery by this time, but we were only too eager to test the new life in the 1800s. Inside the adjacent wooden church, built in waters – soon agreeing that the drive was worth it. 1886, Iceland’s bishop is preparing for a special mass. In true Icelandic fashion, the locals strike up a conver- Later, we spend the afternoon driving through the fjords sation in the hot tubs. They talk to us about the hardships and over the highlands towards Reykjavík. While many of of the life in the tiny village, the woes of the fishing indus- the towns in the West Fjords are not worth all the driving in try, and the all too familiar trend of migration to the bigger themselves, it’s the dramatic views that impress. The friendli- centres of Akureyri and Reykjavík, referred to as “the City” ness of the inhabitants, along with the rugged beauty of the re- around here. Times might be tough in the country, but these gion, has left me with a new appreciation for this country. people have unrivalled peacefulness and surely one of the best pools around. The sparsely populated and isolated Norðurfjörður is the last stop before the Hornstrandir peninsula, abandoned from settlement in the 1950s. The peninsula, comprising of Drangajökull glacier and an expanse of wild grassland and tundra, is a popular summer hiking destination. But hiking isn’t on our agenda, and with the prospect of the weather Reykjavík in Literature closing in the following day, we decide to head back down the coast for the long drive to Hólmavík. A Guided Walking Tour

It’s so sparsely populated around these parts, with only the occasional farm dotting the countryside, that we share the road only with the sheep and birds that inhabit these shores during the summer.

Ísafjörður Every Thursday in July and August at The following day we continue on to the regional hub of Places visited 5pm. Starts at Reykjavik City Library in Ísafjörður, population 3000. The drive soon turns tedious Hólmavík Tryggvagata 15. The walk, which lasts for after the marvels and more desirable weather of the previ- www.holmavik.is about 90 min, is at an easy pace and suits ous day. Fjord, after fjord, after fjord... endless fjords, it seems everyone. www.borgarbokasafn.is Free of charge. as we drive the length of each. Finally Ísafjörður appears, Suðureyri Tel: 563-1717 strung out on a protruding spit into the fjord with the steep, www.sudureyri.is snow tipped mountains providing a dramatic backdrop. People around these parts, like in much of the West Hrafnseyri Fjords, survive off fishing, sheep farming out of town, and www.hrafnseyri.is increasingly, tourism. The owner of our guesthouse, who just so happens to be one of the most talkative and friendly Hnífsdalur people I’ve encountered in Iceland, insists that we have dinner down at the harbour at the fish restaurant housed in one Bolungarvík of Iceland’s oldest buildings. The fish is reportedly right off www.bolungarvik.is the boat – and according to all accounts, is phenomenally good. Ísafjörður The owner of the guesthouse tells us that she is trying www.isafjordur.is to help to establish the West Fjords as a tourist destination. And she’s not the only one. The region’s slogan is “A differ- FLY ent Iceland”, and there have been concerted efforts to attract www.airiceland.is tourism to the area and even talk of trying to get direct flights Round trip: est:16.250ISK from from abroad. Eager to promote what the area has to offer, she Reykjavik Airport check online for details. enthusiastically proclaims that the West Fjords offer many of what the whole of Iceland has to offer in a concentrated area. DRIVE And, she could be right. www.hertz.is An icy wind blows from the mountains still striped with www.sixt.is snow that refuses to budge despite the arrival of summer. The following afternoon we make a trip to the nearby towns And more info on the area: of Hnífsdalur and Bolungarvík, where fish drying racks line www.westfjords.is the coast.

“They put on such a beautiful meal for us. We had the most amazing freshest ﬁsh I've ever had in my life. DAY It was all so perfectly tours cooked too...Beautiful!” Jamie Oliver’s Diary Spectacular Breathtaking Unforgettable Glacier & Hot spring walks

www.mountainguides.is Phone: +354 587 9999 32 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008 destination

Getting Horny with the Cod by Ben H. Murray — PHOTO BY VIKTOR SVAN

Fishing and fish in Iceland are as much a part of the culture, history and lifestyle as music, beer and late nights in 101. With that in mind, and a desire to encounter first-hand one of the country's most famous exports, deep sea cod, I set off on a mid-morning trip into the stretch of sea overlooked by Reykjavik to capture one of these beasts from the bay. After a short motor out to a fertile fishing ground we drop our lures, a multi-coloured mixture of rubber worms designed to look like dinner to a hungry fish, and wait for something to bite. The German fisherman who joined us on the trip, a son and father armed to the teeth with some typ- ically efficient-looking fishing kit, are first to start whooping with excitement as one of them quickly hooks into a prime cod the size of a small family dog. It's an impressive catch and could feed a very large family more than once over – who needs factory farmed chicken and beef when you have a sus- tainable food source like that on your doorstep? The first thing that strikes you about the fish is just how bright and healthy-looking they seem to be. Their colouration is vivid, with the cod ranging from shades of dark olive to sandy yellow depend- ing on their diet and habitat, and there's obviously no shortage of them scavenging the seabed. The clean waters and remoteness of Iceland must play some part in the quality of the catch and the Ger- mans admit that this is fishing nirvana for them. With a reputation at stake (I'd stupidly claimed to know what I was doing with a rod and line), I was getting worried as the only fish to have fallen for the rather unconvincing lure after the first drift was a small, catfood-sized haddock. However, the next drop down produced something substantial that did think a bit of metal and latex was a legitimate food source bent the rod and tried to head out to sea. It was only a small cod but it was followed by four more, including a proper lump of a fish that made me a very happy fisherman. As I was reeling up the last fish a bit too enthusiastically, the charismatic skipper shouted "don't get VERDICT DAYTRIP INFO all horny with it", just before a 3kg example of why My friends ate very well that night and the Scheduled from Reykjavík harbor from early Trip provided by Elding Icelandic nature is loved so much hit the surface. experience showed that fishing is one of the few June to late August every day at 11:00, but can be Reykjavik-harbour things that can be universally enjoyed, regardless booked at other times. Tel.: 555 3565 of nationality or age. www.elding.is

GRÍMSEY

ÍSAFJÖRÐUR Air Iceland ÞÓRSHÖFN

VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI www.airiceland.is destinations EGILSSTAÐIR

CONSTABLE POINT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NUUK Greenland Fly and discover NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK FAROE ISLANDS

Get your action-packed day tour brochure / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS SIA.IS FLU 42809 06.2008 at hotels, airports or any travel agent. ÍSLENSKA REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008 | 33

destination

Fjord Explorers

by Nathaniel Flagg — PHOTO BY VIKTOR SVAN

For much of Iceland’s history, Hvalfjörður has pos- sessed some degree of utility. First, it was a prime location for whaling. During World War II, it housed a submarine. Prior to the construction of the Hvalf- jarðargöng, it was an hour-long detour on the way to Borgarnes. Recently however, Hvalfjörður hasn’t been really needed for much of anything and has quickly become a peaceful getaway for Reykjavíkians seeking solace from city life. The journey to Hvalfjörður is just a quick spin north on the ring road, and looking at a map, I realised I could see the mouth of it from my bedroom window. But this is just yet another testa- ment to the fact that no matter where you are in Ice- land you are only a few steps away from breathtaking views of nature at her most sublime. We started out from a small jetty into the fjord, slung between the majestic cliff face and a small hill. To our left rolled waves and waves of mountains, curl- ing into each other like sleeping beasts. In front of us, the fjord crawled in and amongst the hills. Terns swooped from their nests and scratched in the sand, filling the air with a polyphonic whistling. It was a sunny, clear day with not too much wind, but with the closest hills beginning to get hazy. We felt very small and vulnerable in our little boats, even if we were equipped to the teeth in wetsuits and windbreakers. We circled an island, and paddled across the fjord onto a small beach for a snack. The wind had picked up and we would have to paddle back with the wind facing us. Our guide advised us to “keep on top of the waves” if we didn’t want to get flipped into the icy water. We didn’t think too much of it at the time, but once back in the water it was clear it would take a lot more work to get back to shore. At the same time, we were met with some of the best views of the excursion; the cliffs on our left towered nobly over us, like faces of dour old men gazing sternly across the fjord. In the scramble to get a quick snapshot of these sights, the stiff wind seized the opportunity to blow us helter-skelter, overwhelming our momentum completely to send us backwards and sideways. We were out in it, sandwiched between a clear sky above and clear water below, weaving around castle-like formations of black rock and august mountains, apprecia- tive of the opportunity just to physically exist among such spectacular feats of natural architecture. DAYTRIP Guaranteed departures on Mondays Kayaking in Hvalfjörður fjord is yet another fine way to discover Trip provided by Arctic Rafting at 9:00 from June 10 to September 1. the profound beauty of Iceland’s landscape. Laugavegur 11 No previous kayak experience required. Tel.: 562 7000 PRICE www.adventures.is 7.990 ISK per person.

GRÍMSEY

ÍSAFJÖRÐUR Air Iceland ÞÓRSHÖFN

VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI www.airiceland.is destinations EGILSSTAÐIR

CONSTABLE POINT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NUUK Greenland Fly and discover NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK FAROE ISLANDS

Get your action-packed day tour brochure / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS SIA.IS FLU 42809 06.2008 at hotels, airports or any travel agent. ÍSLENSKA 34 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

destinationS BY SIGURÐUR KJARTAN KRISTINSSON — PHOTO BY THOMAS HUMERY

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In the summertime the countryside seems to morph into a cultural utopia, at least when you look upon the limited cultural activities in these rural areas during the winter. DeZc^c\]djgh/ HjbbZgBVn&hi"HZei#&*i]/9Vân&%"&,# The actual reason for this happening is somewhat of a mystery but nevertheless it is L^ciZgHZei#&+i]"6eg#(%i]/ indeed factual. Some of them have great PR, but many of them don’t. And so we decided to 9Vân&&"&,ZmXZeiBdcYVnh# make a smart index of the vast selection to make your travelling decisions a little easier. CVi^dcVaBjhZjbd[>XZaVcYHjÂjg\ViV)&&%&GZn`_VkÌZa#*(%''%%lll#cVibjh#^h

Eistnaflug The Icelandic Jockey LungA HOUSING (e. Flight of the Testes) Tournament Art Festival BENEFITS in Neskaupstaður July 10–13 in Hella July 4–6 in Seyðisfjörður July 14–20 Distance from Reykjavík: 715 km Distance from Reykjavík: 93 km Distance from Reykjavík: 681 km RENT BENEFITS

This metal festival in the East fjords has The Icelandic horse riding culture has The young artists of Iceland chronically gained more and more popularity over been immensely important to natives seem to be coming more and more cre- Housing benefits are intended for residents of Reykjavik as a financial aid to those who rent in the general market. the last few years. It started out as a paro- over the ages and at this every-other-year ative and prolific and this Art Festival in Application service is provided at the city’s 6 service centers and it’s also possible to apply dy to the family festival Neistaflug (Flight tournament all the jockeys unite in a big Seyðisfjörður is both dedicated to and electronically through www.rafraen.reykjavik.is. Applicants shall have reach 18 years of age, hold a legal residence in Reykjavik and be able to show a signed rental contract that has been of the Sparks) in the same squadron town celebration. The sport of horse-riding has operated by those promising youngsters. registered at the district magistrade. in the East fjords, and partially still is. In changed from being the only travelling The festival is partitioned into three parts.

For further information contact you nearest service center, either directly or through its earlier years the line-up only included option for Icelanders into being this lux- Firstly the workshops during the day, tel: 4 11 11 11 a few metal garage bands and the camp- ury sport which it is still today. Therefore where experienced artists mentor the

• Vesturgarður, service centre for the residents of Vesturbaer district, Hjardarhagi 45-47, tel. 411-1700 site was mostly inhabited with underage, the bulk of Icelandic celebrities and ty- younger ones where hopefully their tal- • Hlíðar, service centre for the residents of the city centre and the district of Hlidar, Skulagata 21, tel. 411-1600 • Laugardalur and Háaleiti, service centre for the residents of the districts of Laugardalur and Haaleiti, Sidumuli 39, murky groupies, dreaming of their cherry coons tend this tournament, which has a ents bloom; secondly, the various turn-ups tel. 411-1500 • Breidholt, service centre for the residents of Breidholt, Alfabakka 12, tel. 411-1300 finally being popped by one of the rug- reputation of being the booziest of all Ice- during the latter part of the day which can • Árbær and Grafarholt, service centre for the residents of the districts of Arbaer and Grafarholt, Baejarhals 1, tel. 411-1200 ged metal heads, but today Icelandic rock landic country festivals. Some say it really vary from lectures from Icelandic Acad- • Miðgarður, service centre for the residents of Grafarvogur and Kjalarnes, Langarima 21, tel. 411-1400 idols such as HAM will make an appear- doesn’t matter if you’re into horses at all, emy of Arts students to performances by Borgartun 10-12 ance. Even the morbid black metal leg- you should simply attend if you long for a the Icelandic Accordion Association. Last 105 Reykjavík Tel: 411 11 11 ends in Mayhem begged to be included, nutty and extremely long-lasting party. but not least, it is the harvest festival and www.velferdarsvid.is but that unfortunately didn’t work out. So For more info see: www.south.is the prime concert where the Kimi artists [email protected] whether you love the barbarous sounds of Borko, Morðingjar, Reykjavík! and Benni metal or simply wish to have a dash of cul- Hemm Hemm entertain the crowd. tural shock, Grapevine recommends this More info at www.lunga.is roughest country festival of the East. Tickets and more info at www.eistnaflug.

Irish Days Bræðslan Folk Music Festival

in Akranes July 4–6 in Borgarfjörður Eystri July 28 in Siglufjörður July 2-6 Distance from Reykjavík: 49 km Distance from Reykjavík: 724 km Distance from Reykjavík: 386 km

Everyone has heard the myth that Ice- A very extraordinary music festival in this This music festival attracts several mu- landers are in fact descendents from Ire- remote area has a certain charm and has sic devotees but as the name suggests a land and not Norway, and this energetic attracted musicians such as Belle & Sebas- wide variety of folk music is presented. festival in Akranes is a refuge for all the tian. This year the festival doesn’t boast of But don’t assume too early, the line-up followers of that theory. Irish folk-music is any international music high-flyers, but doesn’t only include Icelandic folk music played the entire weekend, and all of the nevertheless the line-up of Icelandic per- but also Scandinavian and even Balkan. Icelandic supplies of Guinness beer in the formers is bullet-proof. Rockstar: Superno- The artists are also from miscellaneous whole country are unavoidably emptied, va idol Magni Ásgeirsson will be there as nationalities but you can find the fetching followed by an election of the most Irish well as mellow and enigmatic rising star Icelandic singer Ragnheiður Gröndal as Icelander. For more info see: Lay Low. Tickets and more info at well as Susanne Lundeng, a famous Nor- www.irskirdagar.is www.midi.is. wegian violin player. For more info see: www.siglo.is Auður, Gljúfrasteinn. Photo: Halldór Laxness, 1955 © Halldór Laxness’ Family Laxness’ © Halldór 1955 Laxness, Halldór Photo: Gljúfrasteinn. Auður,

MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS SURTSEY – GENESIS THE LATE VIEW The ancient vellums on display Multimedia exhibition on a new volcanic island Halldór Laxness’ private photographs

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU SCRIPTS CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP Hverﬁ sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm, also Tue and Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is Thur, June through August. 36 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

DESTINATIONs BY SIGURÐUR KJARTAN KRISTINSSON — PHOTO BY SKARI

Library of Water IN STYKKISHÓLMUR Museum Round Trip A selection of museums outside Reykjavík

The Emigration Settlement The Salt Cod Settlement Library of Water Hofsós Grindavík Stykkishólmur

Because of reasons related to both the The Icelandic fish is glorified world- Last summer the celebrated New York arduous climate and backbreaking wide but since the early 19th Century artist Roni Horn opened a permanent economy, a lot of Icelanders emigrated the main fish export from Iceland has installation in the Library of Water, a to North America in the latter part been salted cod. The exhibition is alleg- modern museum in Stykkishólmur. of the 19th Century. This museum is dedicated to these travels and explains edly “interesting” for foreign travellers Roni had for some time been photo- why, where and how it took place. and ideal for students who have eco- graphing Icelandic nature and the Distance from Reykjavik: 326km nomic ambitions. The main purposes installation is somewhat of a combina- www.hofsos.is of the settlement are described in their tion of her previous works. Distance manifesto as an uplift for the Grindavík from Reykjavik: 172km community and a long wanted town www.libraryofwater.is trophy which can make the inhabitants proud. Distance from Reykjavik: 55km SNORKELING www.saltfisksetur.is FROM . ISK The House of Edinburgh The Icelandic History of Music Museum of Skógar NATURE IS THE ADVENTURE! Ísafjörður Bíldudalur Skógar At the dawn of the 19th Century all This remote town in Northern Iceland Skógar is one of Iceland’s finest spots commerce in Ísafjörður was oper- may not have much to offer at first, but where you can witness some of the ated through the Houses of Edinburgh, surprisingly has the only established country’s jewels, such as Skógarfoss originally established by Scots and music museum in Iceland. If you’re waterfall. The museum operated in the which later fell into the hands of Ice- passing by you might as well as check setting lets you sneak a peek into life landers. The museum is dedicated to out Iceland’s music history – dating as it was before, where you can find the beginning of what turned out to from the settlement when Icelanders the local church, the school, the farm- be the lifeline of this small community. used uncanny string instruments to cre- house, the storehouse, as well as the Distance from Reykjavik: 456km ate music all the way to modern days newest establishment of the museum: www.kaffiedinborg.is of pop music. Distance from Reykjavik: the hydro-electric plant. 384km. Phone: +354 456 2186 Distance from Reykjavik: 154km www.travelnet.is

The Ghost Centre The Viking Museum The Art Museum in the Stokkseyri Njarðvík Westman Islands

The seductive archipelago of the West- The Ghost Centre is a museum that fea- The great warriors of the North have man Islands, a little south of Iceland, tures all of Iceland’s famous ghosts so a significant background. It’s an ideal has for a long time been the tourist’s visitors beware, you’re in for a scare. end or beginning to your trip to Iceland most treasured oasis in Iceland. The Upon arrival you can take the classic to stop at the Viking Museum, only a extreme calm that encircles the old ghost tour, where you’ll learn about the small detour from the airport in Keflvík, fishing quarters is an attractive destina- country’s most infamous ghosts and and get to know the red haired beasts tion for many reasons, amongst others www.adventures.is | [email protected] the storyline of several Icelandic ghost a little better. Distance from Reykjavik: such as the adventurous puffing hunt- Meet us at Laugarvegi 11 myths are presented. If you get bored 47km ing. You can also find the excellent Art Museum which possesses a large col- with all the information you can always lection of Kjarval paintings, Iceland’s just have a murky beer at the ghost bar. Booking hot-line: +354-562-7000 dearest painter. Distance from Reykja- Distance from Reykjavik: 59km vik: 51km www.draugasetrid.is ;^gZ^hcZZYZYWni]ZcZlXdbZg L]dhZ`cZZhVgZ[gdoZccjbW0 BZViVcYXaZVca^cZcVbVccZZYh L]d]Vh[VgZYVXgdhhi]Z[Zaah#

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The Maritime Museum has a unique location at the west end of the old fishing Living Museum by the Sea harbour. There are exhibitions on the evolution of Icelanders’ fishing and coastal culture. The Coast Guard vessel Ódinn is a part of the museum. It took part in the Cod Wars of the last century and went on numerous search and rescue missions.

Reykjavik Maritime Museum Open 11-17 every day except Monday

Money Exchange - MoneyGram - FOREX Money Transfer - Tax Free www.forex.is Bankastræti 2, 101 Reykjavik, 551-7755 · Smáratorg 3, 201 Kópavogur, 551-7757 38 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008

THE END — PHOTO BY LJósmyndasafn reykjavíkur & GAS

Reykjavík Then & Now

In the 1960's... Teenagers got paid to clean the city

In 2008... They are still working hard

Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 09 — July 4 - July 17 2008 www.grapevine.is

Stuffed with stuff

We don’t want to get something like, “Hey, you did a nice job here, good first try,” or “it will be fun to see what these guys do in the future.” No, I don’t want any of that, I just want to hear, “you guys shat on yourselves, better luck next time, go to hell” or something like that. Teitur of Slugs has strong opinions about music reviews Page 21

To tell you the truth I simply do not know, has anything changed? This is our personal payoff which lets us reminisce a bit and determine in what way we have changed and what we presently represent. Erlingur Klingenberg on his reunion exhibition at Kling&Bang Page 14

As I was reeling up the last fish a bit too enthusiastically, the charismatic skipper shouted "don't get all horny with it", just before a 3kg example of why Icelandic nature is loved so much hit the surface. Ben H. Murray tests his fishing skills while sea angling Page 32

“Tonight I’m standing and I’m also standing in these big shoes because I’m standing up for nature!” Singer Ólöf Arnalds at the Nature Concert in Laugardalur Page 18 Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map + Naked Ape Birthday · Sirkus Comes to Life Thanks to Art Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 09 2008 www.grapevine.is What: Indian Nights at Oliver (B2) B2 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Listings Art Sirkus Lives Again Thanks to Art

As you may have seen elsewhere in this Himmer, Hugleikur Dagsson, Una When issue (page 32), deep sea fishing is a Stígsdóttir, Anik Todd, Joel Thurman July 5 from 15:00 lot of fun. But what happened to the and Alexander Zaklynsky. Local café Where rather beautiful creatures from the deep Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma og Valda Sirkus port, corner of that gave their life up for such a serious is also collaborating on the project with Laugavegur and Klapparstígur journalistic assignment? You may be Lost Horse. pleased and re-assured to know that As well as mind-expanding art, expect 1 G7 nothing went to waste - the discarded a fine mix of local music from Hey entrails made the harbour’s seagulls Calypso, Sigtryggur Berg Sigmarsson, happy when the boat docked and some Helgi Valur, several DJ sets (SonSon, of the meatier bits are being turned Agzilla, Thor and Biogen), DJ battles, into fine cuisine that’ll be served at the some special mystery guests, an art Sirkus Grounds Project opening party auction and some excellent food, all this Saturday (July 5). crammed onto the site of one of city’s Starting at 3pm and going on until best-loved, and now defunct, drinking midnight, the project is presented by holes. The Amazing Mini Golf Extrava- 101-based Lost Horse gallery, one of ganza and Wally the clown complete Reykjavík’s most interesting and diverse the entertainment. After all, it is at centres for art. The programme features Sirkus, but the only likely animal-related a variety of installations in the Sirkus attendees will be a few wannabe Tiger Grounds from local artists Davíð Örn Woods and the spiced remains of some Halldórsson, Scott Alario, Marguerite pristine Icelandic cod. Keyes, Alex Somers, Sara Riel, Theresa

Event Music Naked Ape Indian Birthday Party! Nights at

Trendy designer shop Naked Ape will off Bar Prikið until way late, so better Oliver celebrate its three-years in the fashion get ready for a very long weekend. business over a whole weekend in July. Cafe Oliver, in association with the Owned by designer Sara María Eyþórs- When: artist Namita Kapoor, presents ‘Indian dóttir, the Naked Ape is a one-off shop- July 10-12 Nights’ inside the trendy bar and bistro ping destination stuffed with colourful Where: on Laugavegur. The event, taking place street-wear, hand-printed hoodies, The Naked Ape, from July 5 to 13, is a celebration of In- music, books and accessories. Bankastræti 14 dian festivities in art, dance, music and From July 10 to 12, the shop will offer fashion. It will kick off with Namita’s a 15% discount off from all of the cool 2 F7 exhibition, ‘Effervescent Delights’, at stuff in store as well as live perfor- Gallery Gel and which opens on July mances, DJ-ing and some other fun 5 (see page 26 for an interview with happenings tthat will take place inside the artist) followed by an after-party at and outside the shop. On July 12, the Oliver that same night. From July 10 to Naked Ape DJ crew will blow the roof 13, Café Oliver will host plenty of Indian happenings, including live drumming with Dave Sharma, fashion show, Indian music and bazaar where you can purchase jewellery, scarves and other Indian delights. Namita will also offer free henna tattoos and Indian Bhangra Experience: dance lessons. Indian food will be on Fresh local fish! the menu and plenty of fun Indian HÚSAVÍK music to dance to. Great Hamburgers! When: HÚSAVÍK July 5–13 Homemade icecream! Where: ... and so much more! Café Oliver, Laugavegur 20a www.gamlibaukur.is 3 G7 B3 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Listings

If you would like to be included Prikið The International Organ Summer: in the Grapevine listings, free of Who’s Your Daddy followed by DJ Einar Jóhannesson, clarinet and charge, contact the Grapevine by Anna Douglas A. Brotchie, organ at email at [email protected]. Q-Bar 12:15 PM. Admission: 1.000 ISK. Star Wars Theme Night featuring Organ DJ Kvikindi Iceland-Palestine concert: Tunglið Performing will be Varda, Plugg´d weekend Gunnar Jónsson, Númer Núll, Music & Vegamót Morðingjarnir, Viðurstyggð and DJ Jónas History Soundt Entertainment Prikið DJ Lazer Friday juLY 4 Q-Bar Sunday JuLY 6 DJ Peter Parker Vegamót Bar 11 Gljúfrasteinn – Laxness Museum DJ Hannes DJs Performing in June/July are: This Sunday’s sitting room Matti X-FM concert will feature Kristjana Gulli Ósóma Stefánsdóttir, Agnar Már Óli Dóri Magnússon and Helga Björg Friday JuLY 11 and Biggi Maus Ágústsdóttir. Brons Hallgrímskirkja Café Paris Every Friday: History Sound The International Organ Summer Austurstræti 14 System Sunday 6 July at 8 PM: Bine DJ A. Ramirez Café Paris Katrine Bryndorf, professor Organ DJ Stjáni at the Royal Conservatory in To be announced. Glaumbar Copenhagen, performs, performs Prikið DJ Valdi works by Johann Sebastian Bach, Búðabandið followed by DJ Rósa Kaffibarinn Olivier Messiaen and Comoto for Q-Bar Nuno Lx organ by Danish composer Carl DJ Unnur Andrea Organ Nielsen. Admission: 1.500 ISK. Vegamót Pop-Quiz at 6 PM followed by DJ Benni DJ Ívar Pétur. Prikið Troubadour Jude followed by Danni Deluxe. Monday JuLY 7 Saturday JuLY 12 Q-Bar DJ Crew No Requests (Ási & Ýr) Organ Café Paris Tunglið Grapevine’s Happy Mondays: DJ A. Ramirez Pluggd weekend Snorri Hergill Stand-up. Hallgrímskirkja Vegamót Prikið The International Organ Summer: Mr. Gorilla Funk Jón Tryggvi. Einar Jóhannesson, clarinet and Douglas A. Brotchie, organ at noon. Admission: 1.000 ISK. Saturday JULY 5 Jómfrúin Tuesday JuLY 8 Performance by Ómar Guðjónsson Trio. Starts at 16:00 Brons Prikið Kaffibarinn Every Saturday: DJ Gauti Performance by Love Me Tender DJ Casanova Café Paris Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Organ DJ Danni Steel Hungarian dances and Romantic To be announced Glaumbar Music. Freyja Gunnlaugsdóttir Prikið DJ Lurkur clarinet and Siiri Schutz piano. Hallgrímskirkja B-Line Crew and Danni Deluxe At 12 noon: Bine Katrine Q-Bar Bryndorf, professor at the Royal DJ Shaft with surprise guests Conservatory in Copenhagen, Wednesday JuLY 9 Vegamót performs L’Ascension by Olivier DJs Símon & Dóri Messiaen. Admission: 1.000 ISK Organ Jómfrúin Mood and B. Sig Bláir skuggar (Blue Shadows). Prikið Sunday JuLY 13 Performance by Sigurður Flosason DJ Bóas and more. Hallgrímskirkja Kaffibarinn The International Organ Summer: Long Saturday: DJ Lazer and Thursday JuLY 10 The world famous Swedish Alfons X trombone player Christian Organ Dómkirkjan (Reykjavík Lindgren and the Swedish DJ KGB Cathedral) organist and composer Gunnar Music & Entertainment | Venue finder

22 Belly´s Arguably the most pub quiz on Fridays at of Reykjavík’s best R&B and Hip-Hop Laugavegur 22 | G7 Hafnarstræti 18a | E5 authentic Irish pub 17.30, the winner gets a bands. Shows go plays on weekends. A popular place Belly´s deserves praise in town, a very lively free case of beer! on all night long on Q-Bar among the city´s party for having the cheap- space with live music Hressó weekends. Ingólfstræti 3 | F6 scenesters, this three est bar prices around. every night, sometimes Austurstræti 20 | E5 Næsti Bar A roomy gay/straight storied bar makes for Good for anyone look- two bands playing at With a spacious Ingólfstræti 1A | F6 bar and a welcome a great night out with ing for a deal, there once. neutral interior, pleas- On nights where addition to downtown chatting upstairs and are enough tables for Dillon ant courtyard and a queues snake down nightlife. Some of the dancing downstairs everyone and TVs for Laugavegur 30 | H7 varied lunch menu, Laugavegur, Naesti best DJs in town play with regular DJs. sport | watching. The quintessential Hressó attracts no Bar can be great place regularly, making it an Amsterdam Boston rock pub Dillion serves specific type of crowd. to sneak off to and especially lively space Hafnarstræti 5 | E6 Laugavegur 28b | H6 moderately priced Tap beer and music chat with friends over on weekends. Kaffi Amsterdam A fresh addition to the drinks, and has pretty makes a fair hangout a beer. Frequented Rex seems to have been Reykjavík bar scene. good music, too. The on weekends. also by the literary and Austurstræti | E5 around forever, though Roomy bar floor, nice mix of students and Hverfisbarinn acting elite. Rex is quite fancy and recently it’s been rein- sofas and stylish tattooed tough guys Hverfisgata 20 | G6 Óliver you may feel out of vented as a live venue. interior make this a always creates a fun After a long line, you’ll Laugavegur 20A | H7 place if you don’t dress Good music, cheap comfy café as well as atmosphere. get in and wonder This stylish nightclub up a bit. Definitely one beer, and colorful a tavern with good, Domo what all the fuss was attracts a glamorous of the more posh spots characters to be found. unintrusive music. Þingholtstræti 5 | F6 about. You may end crowd of crazy dancers in town. Great selection of Apótek Café Cultura The elegantly deco- up here if you’re still that may not be for ev- Sólon new and used army surplus Austurstræti 16 | E5 Hverfisgata 18 | G6 rated Domo serves going at 4 on a Sunday eryone. In which case, Bankastræti 7A | F5 Sporting a chic and Situated in the inter- delicious French-Asian morning, in which air | conditioning and Truly a jack | of | all and collectable militaria pristine interior with cultural centre, Cultura cuisine, excellent sushi case it’s just as good fine food make Oliver trades establishment. Open 11 to 5 Weekends a blend of modern is a café/bar with a and has a great wine as any. a good lunch spot. By night a decent res- minimalism and ornate cosmopolitan feel. The list. A sure choice. Kaffi Hljómalind Ölstofan taurant, by day a café/ baroque, a decent spot menu features all sorts Dubliner Laugavegur 21 | G6 Vegamótastígur | G6 bistro and on Friday with eager service and of international dishes, Hafnarstræti 4 | E5 This organic, free-trade No tricks here. You’ll and Saturday nights a an international menu. alongside the staple The city’s main Irish café prides itself not want just simple beer nightclub. Art exhibi- B5 salad and sandwich. pub attracts quite a lot only on great food in this simple pub. tions on the walls to Bankastræti 5 | F6 Café Paris of foreigners, though and coffee but being a Also the hangout for top it off. By day a chic little Austurstræti 14 | E5 there´s an influx of strong cultural center, Reykjavík intellectual Thorvaldsen bistro with good food With an outdoor ter- locals on weekends. hosting live music as circles. Austurstræti 8 | E5 and a prime location race, this café gets Good if you’re looking well as lectures and Organ Dress formally for this for Laugavegur people busy on sunny days. for the darker stuff poetry nights. Hafnarstræti 1-3 | E4 fancy spot, and come watching | by night With a cosy interior, on tap. Kaffibarinn This trendy bar and before 12 to avoid a a stylish bar with a fine menu and atten- Glaumbar Bergstraðastræti 1 | F6 concert venue pres- long line. DJs play “whiskey room” and tive service, it makes a Tryggvagata 20 | E4 A popular place to ents a wide range of Thursdays, Fridays and manhattanesque fine spot for evening The premier sports bar grab a drink after work, international and local Saturdays. clientele. dining as well. in town, though after this daytime coffee musicians from all lev- Vegamót Bar 11 Café Victor the final whistle, DJs joint roils with night- els of renown. Shows Vegamótastígur 4 | G6 Laugavegur 11 | G6 Hafnarstræti 1-3| D4 take the floor and be- time activity on week- 4 times a week, lasting Vegamót´s kitchen is A happening Rock A hangout for older gin a night of feverish ends with live DJs. late on weekends. open until 22.00 daily hangout right on foreigners, Victor at- dancing. Parties often pound Prikið and sports an appeal- Laugavegur, brings tracts a diverse crowd, Grand Rokk until dawn. Bankastræti | F5 ing lunch menu. Come ARMY.IS in the Iceland rock both in age and origin, Smiðjustígur | G6 NASA Part of the Reykjavík for a tasty brunch on scene whether on the a rule that extends to As its Viking theme ac- Þorvaldsenstræti 2 | bar scene for decades, weekends. If you like jukebox or in person the musicians that play curately displays, this The cornerstone of this café/bar has a Óliver, try Vegamót and WANTS YOU! mainly on Tuesdays there. hardcore chess hang- Reykjavík nightlife, fairly cheap menu and vice versa. The Icelandic Army shop but throughout the Celtic Cross out is no place for the NASA has multiple attracts a mix of stu- week. Hverfisgata 26 | H6 lily | livered. Take the bars and hosts some dents and old regulars. at kolaportið fleamarket B4 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Listings

Idenstam play their transcriptions Candyshop: Exhibition by Kristjana of works by Richard Wagner, Art Rós Oddsdóttir Guðjohnsen Sergei Prokofiev, Maurice Ravel From July 12th and work by themselves. Starts at Sally and Mo, Take a plunge 20:00. Admission: 1.500 ISK. 101 Gallery Opening hours are Wednesday to Hverfisgata 18 Sunday from 14:00-18:00. Thu–Sat 14–17 Gallery StartArt Monday JuLY 14 and by appointment Laugavegur 12b www.101hotel. Tue-Sat 13 – 17 is/101hotel/101gallery/ Hellirinn Free entrance Contradiction Concert. Also July 4 – August 15 www.startart.is performing will be Severed Aðlögun (Adaptation): Exhibition July 3 – July 30 Crotch, Dark Harvest and Agent by Jóna Hlíf Halldórsdóttir Exhibition by Berit Lindfeldt. Fresco. Artótek April 16 – July 30 Organ Tryggvagata 15 Heima: Exhibition by Anna Grapevine’s Happy Monday’s: Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri Eyjólfsdóttir, Ása Ólafsdóttir, Snorri Hergill Stand-up. 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Magdalena Margrét Kjartansdóttir, Prikið www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Ragnhildur Stefánsdóttir, Þórdís Troubadour Jude ASÍ Art Museum Alda Sigurðardóttir and Þuríður Freyjugata 41 Sigurðardóttir. Tue–Sun 13–17 Gallery Ágúst Tuesday July 15 Free Entrance Baldursgata 12 June 21 – August 24 Wed–Sat 12–17 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Currents: Masterpieces from the www.galleriagust.is Performance by Sebastiano ASÍ Art Museum Collection July 5 – July 26 Brusco on piano. The Culture House Summershow: Overview of the gal- Organ Hverfisgata 15 lery’s first year. Hip-Hop Night (Triangle Open daily 11–17 Gallery Fold Numismatic Museum Productions), performances by www.thjodmenning.is Rauðarárstígur 14–16 Josh Martinez (CAN), Sleep Permanent exhibitions: Mon–Fri 10–18 (CAN), DJ Flip (IRE) and more. Medieval Manuscripts; Sat 11–16 Prikið The Library Room. Sun 14–16 Performance by Hvar er Current exhibitions: www.myndlist.is Draumurinn. Surtsey – Genesis Gallery Ibiza Bunker The exhibition traces the emer- Þingholtsstræti 31 gence and evolution of the island Open Fridays 17-20 Wednesday July 16 Surtsey until the present day and www.myspace.com/ibizabunker predicts its geographical and eco- July 4 Organ logical development over the next Collaboration between artists Anna Groundfloor Release Concert 120 years. Hrund Másdóttir and Bergdís Hörn Prikið From Beyond the Oceans – Trans- I]Z8ZcigVa7Vc`VcYCVi^dcVaBjhZjbd[>XZaVcY_d^ciandeZgViZ Guðvarðardóttir, DJ Gauti lations and original writings by Vcjb^hbVi^XXdaaZXi^dci]ViXdch^hihd[>XZaVcY^XcdiZhVcYXd^ch! July 11 Helgi Hálfdanarson Guðmundur Thoroddsen exhibition [dgZ^\cbdcZn[gdbZVga^Zgi^bZh!ZheZX^Vaan^[bZci^dcZY^c>XZaVc" The thematic exhibition currently Gallery Kling & Bang Y^XhdjgXZh!VcYbdgZgZXZciXjggZcXn[gdb>XZaVcY»hbV^cigVY^c\ Thursday July 17 on view in the Library Room is Hverfisgata 42 eVgicZgXdjcig^Zh#6hZaZXi^dc[gdbi]Zcjb^hbVi^XXdaaZXi^dc^hdc dedicated to Helgi Hálfdanarson’s Thursday - Sunday from 14-18 Y^heaVn^ch]dlXVhZhdci]Z\gdjcY[addgd[i]Z8ZcigVa7Vc`»hbV^c Dómkirkjan (Reykjavík Cathedral) translations and original writings. Free admission Wj^aY^c\# The International Organ The Late View – Halldór Laxness’ this.is/klingogbang/ Summer: Sólveig Samúelsdóttir, Photographs July 4 – August 8 mezzosoprano and Lenka Nobel Laureate and cosmopolitan Artist on the Verge of Something II Situated in the Central Bank´s main building in Kalkofnsvegur 1, Reykjavík. Mátéová, organ. Starts at 12:15. Halldór Laxness was better known Gallery Turpentine Open Mon.-Fri. 13:30-15:30. Free admittance. Admission: 1.000 ISK. for his writing but proved to be Ingólfsstræti 5 Organ also a good photographer. This is Tue–Fri 12–18 Performance by Dikta and Kuroi an exhibition of his works. Sat 11–16 Prikið Exhibition Series www.turpentine.is DJ Natalie Ásta Ólafsdóttir displays her art- Current Exhibition: The Forget-Me-Not Burger – Simply Magical! Q-Bar work at the Culture Shop. Paintings by Eyjólfur Einarsson Djúpa Laugin. Date-show Dwarf Gallery Gel Gallery theme night, where three lovely Grundarstígur 21 Hverfisgata 37 ladies compete for a date with a Opening Hours: Fri and Sat 18–20 Mon–Fri 13–18 handsome young man. The night www.this.is/birta Sat 11–16 starts at 21:00. The Einar Jónsson Museum Sun 14–16 Vegamót Eiríksgata DJ Danni Deluxe www.myspace.com/gallerigel Tue–Sun 14–17 July 5 – July 22 www.skulptur.is Effervescent Delights: Exhibition by Permanent exhibition: Namita Kapoor The work of sculptor Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Friday July 18 Einar Jónsson. Gerðuberg 3–5 Fotografí Mon–Thu 11–17 Café Paris Skólavörðustígur 4a Wed 11–21 DJ Stjáni www.fotografi.is Thu–Fri 11–17 Prikið July 5 – August 2 Sat–Sun 13–16 Franz and Jenni followed by Danni Mist: Photographic exhibition by www.gerduberg.is Deluxe Berglind Björnsdóttir May 3 – Sep 7 Q-Bar Gallery 100º Between Mountain and Shore: DJ Sexual Chocolate Bæjarháls 1 Tunglið Exhibition of landscape paint- www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ ings from popular-artist couple Performance by Trentemöller and Open weekdays from 08:30 – 16:00 Kasper Björke. Michael Guðvarðarson and Ósk Current Exhibition: Vegamót Guðmundsdóttir Contemporary Art from Croatia Bergþórugata 21 – 101 Reykjavík – Tel.: 5517200 DJs Anna and Jónas May 3 – Sep 7 Gallery Auga Fyrir Auga Magical Beings From the Folk Hverfisgata 35 Tales of Iceland: Drawings from June 14 – July 5 Jón Baldur Hlíðberg Art | Venue finder

101 Gallery tions in the summer. Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 The National Gallery analysis of collected Reykjavík City Hverfisgata 18A | F6 The Einar Jónsson Houses a collection of of Iceland coins, medals and Theater Located in the 101 Museum Icelandic contempo- Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 books. Listabraut 3 | Off the Hotel, features a Eiriksgata | G9 rary artwork as well as Houses the national Reykjavík 871+/-2 Grid broad selection of Features a permanent works from old Icelan- art collection and is Aðalstræti 17 | D6 Presenting Icelandic international and local exhibition on the dic masters both for the center of research Museum on the Music and Dance per- contemporary art. sculptor Einar Jónsson display and sale. and documentation of founding of Reykjavík. formances as well as Artótek as well as temporary i8 Gallery Icelandic art. Located in the oldest Dramatic Theater, pro- Tryggvagata 15 | D5 exhibits. Klapparstígur 33 | G7 The National Mu- house in the city. Tours duces six new shows each year. An Icelandic art The Culture House Represents work by an seum in English on Mondays exhibition space and Hverfisgata 15 | F6 eclectic mix of Icelan- Suðurgata 41 | C9 and Saturdays at 14.00 Reykjavík Maritime art dealer. Pieces are A Museum of Icelandic dic and international Established in 1863, Reykjavík Art Mu- Museum available for purchase cultural history, with contemporary art. this museum features seum Grandagarður 8 | C3 or lease. an ongoing exhibition Living Art Museum exhibits on Icelandic Ásmundur Sveinsson With a fishing trawler- ASÍ Art Museum of the original manu- Vatnsstígur 3 | G7 cultural heritage. Sculpture Museum, turned-exhibit space, Freyugata 41 | G10 scripts of the sagas A non-profit gallery The Nordic House Sigtún | Off the educates on the mari- Run by the ASI labor and eddas. that organizes 8-10 Sturlugata 5 | C11 Grid time and fishing tradi- tions of Iceland. union, features mostly Gallery Kling & Bang larger exhibitions every Explores and promotes Hafnarhús, Tryggva- contemporary Icelan- Laugavegur 23 | G7 year as well as other Scandinavian culture gata 17 | E5 Reykjavík Museum dic art. Free entry. Exhibits upcoming and cultural events. with regular lectures, Kjarvalsstaðir, Flóka- of Photography Árbæjarsafn established contem- Lost Horse Gallery films and exhibitions. gata | K11 Tryggvagata 16 | D5 Kistuhylur 4 | Off the porary artists as well Skólastræti 1 | F6 The Numismatic Specializing in con- Features work by local Grid as hosting screenings, Located in a renovated Museum temporary art by local and international pho- An open-air museum lectures and perfor- stable off Laugavegur, Einholt 4 | K9 and international art- tographers, as well as featuring arts-and- mances. features work by local Presents a cultural his- ists. Entrance free on an archive on the history of photography. crafts fairs and exhibi- Gallery Turpentine artists. tory of Iceland through Thursdays. B5 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Listings Music We don´t serve Trentemöller foreigners... at Tunglið because to us - nobody is foreign. Only 45 min. drive from Reykjavík is Eyrarbakki, a beautiful village by The legendary Danish DJ Trentemöller date Trentemöller but he has recently When: the south coast, where foreigners have been feeling at home since will return yet again to Iceland on July won over most of Icelandic dance gurus July 18 the 9th century AD. So welcome to Rauða húsið, a restaurant that 18 and jog some discs at the notorious with his hit ‘Back and Spine’ which he Where: makes you feel at home. venue Tunglið. This version of Tunglið created with Icelandic All-star band FM Tunglið, Tryggvagata 22 Tel: (+354) 483-3330, actually isn’t as notorious as the old Belfast. The ticket is a bit pricey or 2,500 Eyrarbakki - South coast Tnglið was, and some say it isn’t Tunglið ISK but we’re sure it’s worth it. Tickets at all but you know, the same guy ope- and more info at www.midi.is 4 D5 rates it. Kasper Björke will accommo-

Music Art Iceland-Palestine Round and *(DXpÆ*(8l^ljk)''/ Benefit Concert in 101 Round in

July 10 the prolific idealist society When: Ibiza Ign\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgÆ&%&GZn`_Vk^`ÆIZa#*+(&,.%Æe]didbjhZjb5gZn`_Vk^`#^hÆlll#e]didbjhZjb#^h Iceland-Palestine throws yet another July 10 DeZc^c\]djgh&'¶&.bdc¶[g^!&(¶&,lZZ`ZcYhÆ69B>HH>DC;G:: gathering at Reykjavik’s most popular Where: Bunker venue Organ. And if you’re not that into Organ, the whole Free Palestine concept you Hafnarstræti 1-3 Friday, July 4, the exhibition, ‘again and probably look good with a Palestinian again .. round and round …’, a colla- scarf around your neck, so it’s kind of boration between artists Anna Hrund open for everyone. The line-up is quite 5 E6 Másdóttir and Bergdís Hörn Guðvarðar- experimental but a sound sculpture dóttir, will open in Gallerí Íbíza Bunker. by Varda will be broadcasted online The gallery is a new art venue in to begin with, then the young perfor- downtown Reykjavík, whose aim is mer Gunnar Jónsson will launch the to exhibit artworks by exciting artists live show. Later that night classic acts irrespective of their age, education or Ó restaurant such as Morðingjarnir and Viðurstyg- past experience. This summer will see gð will perform. The expiration will be seven exhibitions, opening every Friday reggaeish but it will be in the hands of at 17:00 to 20:00. Each opening will also -as good as it gets! History Sound. The fun begins at 21:00. feature live music and are only open for these three hours each time. On July 11, Located in the old charming area of Reykjavik Guðmundur Thoroddsen will present his Ó restaurant offers you an unforgettable culinary experience. works at the gallery. Our emphasis is on seasonal and natural ingredients and our When: menu includes the famous Icelandic fish and lamb. July 4 and July 11 6 E8 Where: Iceland´s modern cuisine at its best Gallerí Ibiza Bunker, Þingholtsstræti 31

Art F í t o n / S Í A Adaptation in 101

On July 4, the artist Jóna Hlíf Halldór- sdóttir opened the exhibition Aðlögun / Adaptation inside 101 Gallery in downtown Reykjavík. The exhibition consists of photographs, an installation and some video-works that Jóna has been creating for the past years where she deals with power, the human psyche and various natural phenomena as an illusion. In addition to displaying her own art-works in solo and group exhibitions in Iceland and abroad, Jóna Hlíf runs GalleriBOX in Akureyri and is also a curator for VeggVerk and Gallerí Ráðhús.

When: July 4 – August 15 8 E6 Where: 101 Gallery, Ó restaurant Þórsgata 1 Tel. +354 511 66 77 orestaurant.is Hverfisgata 18a Hótel Óðinsvé 101 Reykjavík Tel. +354 511 62 00 [email protected] B6 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Listings

4 March – 7 September Open daily 10–16 >XZaVcY^X A Date with Collectors III: All of the Free entrance. exhibition pieces are connected www.listasafnreykjavikur.is with music in one way or another! May 20 – August 10 The Shape of Line 6gi Hitt Húsið - Gallery Tukt A new retrospective of works by Pósthússtræti 3-5 Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibi- www.hitthusid.is tion focuses on abstract works ÆÆÆ Every Friday this summer will be from 1945 onwards. a “Fantastic Friday” where Hitt Reykjavík Art Museum I]Z:hhZcXZ Húsið’s Creative Summer Groups – Hafnarhús storm the streets in an attack of art Tryggvagata 17 d[VCVi^dc between 12 AM and 2 PM. Open daily 10–17 and on Thurs- i8 Gallery days from 10 - 22 Klapparstígur 33 Free Entrance. Tue–Fri 11–17 May 15 – August 24 Sat 13–17 and by appointment Hafnarhús - Experimental www.i8.is Marathon Reykjavík: Hafnarhús 6giXZaVcY^XVgi Exhibition by Hamish Fulton where leading artists, architects, Living Art Museum film-makers, and scientists will Laugavegur 26 create an environment of invention GVjVg{ghi\jg&)!cZVg=aZbbjgWjhhiVi^dc!iZa#**&%)%% Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 through various experiments and @g^c\aVcH]dee^c\BVaa!iZa#*+-%)%%Ælll#bncYa^hi#^h Thu 13–22 performances (in English). Curated www.nylo.is by Hans Ulrich Obrist and Ólafur Current exhibition: Elíasson. Dieter Roth’s Bookwork Exhibition Reykjavík Art Museum Seafood-grill mix with risotto, salad and 2 types of sauce The Lost Horse Gallery – Kjarvalsstaðir Skólastræti 1 Flókagata Grilled Salmon with salad, lemon sauce and baked Open on weekends from 13- 19 Open Daily 10–17 potatoes and by appointment on weekdays. Free entrance. www.this.is/subaqua/losthorse. 18 May – 31 August html Dreams of the Sublime and No- Grilled Halibut baked in garlic butter with salad and Jun 17 – July 22 where in Contemporary Icelandic corn of the cob Independence Day Painting Art: This exhibition includes many

Exhibition (Curated by Davíð Örn new works of photography and Oven baked Bacalao in a tomato-basil sauce with capers Halldórsson and Alexander Zak- video art by Iceland’s most out- and olive’s lynsky): Features works by a group standing artists, building on their

of Icelandic painters disparate ideas about nature as a Hashed sh (Icelandic specialty) in mild curry sauce with rye bread The National Film Archive of phenomenon. Iceland 18 May – 20 July Fish and chips with sauce and salad Life music Hvaleyrarbraut 13 I Hate Nature/Aluminati: Installa- Icelandic lunch Menu www.kvikmyndasafn.is tion by Martha Schwartz The National Film Archive of 18 May – 31 August Situated in the heart of Reykjavík Iceland screens old movie classics Where Am I?: An exhibition in and masterpieces twice a week for which children and adults can 500 ISK per ticket. contemplate their planet, their The National Gallery of Iceland country, and the landmarks of their Fríkirkjuvegur environment. © Cafe Victor | Hafnarstræti 1-3 | 101 Reykjavík | Tue–Sun 11–17 18 May – 31 December tel: 561 9555 | www.victor.is | [email protected] Free Entrance Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key Works: www.listasafn.is The current exhibition in Kjar- July 10 – September 28 valsstaðir’s east gallery features Exhibition: Highlight of Icelandic key works from the museum’s Art collection along with works on The National Museum loan from the Labor Unions’ Art Suðurgata 41 Gallery and from the collection Open daily 10–17 of Ingibjörg Guðmundsdóttir and natmus.is Þorvaldur Guðmundsson. Permanent exhibition: Reykjavík Maritime Museum The Making of a Nation Grandagarður 8 June 6 – January 21 www.sjominjasafn.is Over the Ocean and Home: Icelan- Current Exhibitions: dic artefacts from Sweden. Living Museum by the Sea; Arterial May 16 – Sept 14 for Country and City; From Poverty Endurkast (Reflection): Coop- to Abundance; The Shark – Light erative photography exhibition and Life Energy; Hidden Crafts- between eight Icelandic photogra- man. phers. Reykjavík Museum May 16 – Sept 14 (Árbæjarsafn) In the Mist: Exhibition by French Kistuhylur 4 photographer Thomas Humery. Open daily from 10–17 May 15 – Sept 1 www.arbaejarsafn.is Lífshlaup: Cooperative project Current exhibitions: between The University of Iceland Building Techniques in Reykjavík and the National Museum. 1840-1940; Disco and Punk – The Nordic House Different cultures?; Christmas is Sturlugata 5 Coming; History of Reykjavík – Tue–Sun 12–17 from farm to city; Memories of a www.nordice.is House; Living and Playing June 14 – August 31 The Reykjavík Museum of An exhibition celebrating the 40th Photography anniversary of the Nordic House. Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th The Numismatic Museum floor Kalkofnsvegur 1 Weekdays 12–19 Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. Sat–Sun 13–17 Free admission. Free entrance Permanent exhibition: www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is The Central Bank of Iceland and May 31 – Aug 31 the National Museum of Iceland Skovbo: Exhibtion by Viggo jointly operate a numismatic Mortensen collection consisting of Icelandic June 5 – July 29 notes and coins. The Lodgers: Photographs by Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Anne Kathrin Greiner Aðalstræti 16 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Open daily 10–17 Laugarnestangi 70 Permanent exhibition: Open Tue–Sun 14–17 The Settlement Exhibition Permanent exhibition: Reykjavík Art Gallery Works of sculptor Skúlagata 28 Sigurjón Ólafsson. Open from Tuesday through Sun- July 8th at 20:30 day 14-18 Hungarian dances and Romantic Current exhibition: Music. Freyja Gunnlaugsdóttir Magnús Tómasson, Pétur Már clarinet and Siiri Schutz piano. Pétursson and Tolli July15th at 20:30 Reykjavík Art Museum Performance by Sebastiano Brusco – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture on piano. Museum Sigtún B7 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Listasafn Reykjavíkur Listings Reykjavik Art Museum OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK LÁ Art Museum Austurmörk 21, Hveragerði Hafnarborg www.listasafnarnesinga.is Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Open daily from 12 – 18 Mon–Sun 11–17 Current Exhibition: www.hafnarborg.is Exhibition on the works of visual May 29 – July 21 artist Magnús Kjartansson. Hundrað (Hundred) – Photograph- ic exhibition featuring photographs spanning Hafnarfjörður’s 100-year Olga Bergmann Olga Schwartz Martha history Movies June 1 – July 21 Kjarvalsstaðir Hafnfirðingar – Photographic Big Stan May 18 – August 31 May 18 – August 31 May 18 – August 31 May 18 – December 31 exhibition by Árni Gunnlaugsson Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Borgarbíó Dreams of the Sublime and Where am I? Martha Schwartz – Jóhannes S. Kjarval focusing on long time residents of Brúðguminn Hafnarfjörður Nowhere In Contemporary I Hate Nature – ‘Aluminati’ Kópavogur Art Museum – Regnboginn Icelandic Art Gerðarsafn Hancock Curated by Æsa Sigurjónsdóttir Hamraborg, Kópavogur Smárabíó, Sambíóin Álfabakki, Open daily 11–17 except Mondays Háskólabíó, Regnboginn, www.gerdarsafn.is Borgarbíó, Sambíóin Keflavík, The Icelandic Museum of Design Sambíóin Selfoss and Applied Art Indiana Jones IV Reykjavik Art Museum Lyngás 7–9, 121 Garðabær Sambíóin Álfabakki, Háskólabíó, Opening hours: Tues.–Fri 14–18; Laugarásbíó, Regnboginn Sat and Sun 16–18. Kung Fu Panda www.mudesa.org Smárabíó, Sambíóin Álfabakki, Exhibitions devoted to Icelandic Sambíóin Kringlan, Regnboginn, design. Sambíóin Keflavík, Sambíóin Gljúfrasteinn Akureyri, Sambíóin Selfoss – Halldór Laxness museum Meet Bill 270 Mosfellsbær Háskólabíó, Regnboginn Open daily except Mondays from Sex and the City 10–17. Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Sambíóin Kringlan, Laugarásbíó,

The Icelandic Settlement Centre Hiorns Roger Brákarbraut 1–15, Borgarnes Regnboginn, Borgarbíó, Sambíóin Opening hours: May to Sep 10–20; Selfoss Speed Racer Hafnarhús Ásmundarsafn Sep to May 11–17. May 15 – September 7 March 31, 2007 – August 31, 2008 www.landnam.is Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Experiment Marathon The Shape of the Line Permanent exhibitions: Kringlan, Sambíóin Keflavík, Reykjavik The Settlement of Iceland; The Sambíóin Akureyri, Sambíóin Saga of Egill Skalla-Grímsson Selfoss. Curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist Current theatre productions: The Bank Job and Olafur Eliasson Brák – a monologue by Brynhildur Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíoin Gudjonsdottir Kringlan Kjarvalsstaðir, by Flókagata Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17 Ásmundarsafn, by Sigtún Free admission. Mr. Skallagrímsson – a monologue The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Open daily 10 a.m. – 5 p.m Open daily 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Open daily 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. by Benedikt Erlingsson Caspian Thursdays to 10 p.m. Suðsuðvestur Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíói Hafnargata 22, Keflavík Kringlan, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin Sat–Sun 13–17:30 Keflavík, Sambíóin Akureyri, www.sudsudvestur.is Sambíóin Selfoss The Happening Vatnasafn / Library of Water www.artmuseum.is [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201 Bókhlöðustígur 17, Regnboginn 340 Stykkishólmur The Incredible Hulk www.libraryofwater.is Smárabíó, Borgarbíó, Sambíóin Open daily from 11–17. Keflavík Permanent exhibition: Wanted ey survived a night at Paddy’s...... Can you? Roni Horn installation. She has Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin replaced stacks of books with Kringlan, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin glass columns containing water Akureyri, Sambíóin Selfoss gathered from Iceland’s glaciers Zohan and glacial rivers. Smárabíó, Regnboginn Jónas Viðar Gallery Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Meet Dave – July 9 Fri–Sat 13–18 Mamma Mia – July 9 www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm Deception – July 16 Akureyri Art Museum Hellboy 2: The Golden Army – July 16 Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri WALL-E – July 16 Tue–Sun 12–17 The Dark Knight – July 23 www.listasafn.akureyri.is Get Smart – August 6 DaLí Gallery The Mummy:Tomb of the Dragon Brekkugata 9, Akureyri Emperor – August 6 Mon–Sat 14–18 The Amazing Truth About Queen www.daligallery.blogspot.com Raquela – August 13 GalleriBOX Redbelt – August 13 Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri Feast of Love – August 20 www.galleribox.blogspot.com Star Wars - Clone Wars – August 29 Veggverk Sveita Brúðkaup – August 29 Strandgata 17 (The Wall), Akureyri Open 24/7 and admission is free www.veggverk.org Paddy’s Irish Pub ✳ Hafnargata 38, Reykjanesbær ✳ phone: 421-8900 ✳ www.myspace.com/paddysforever Current exhibition: All Hail The Brain: Painting Events by Sara Riel Kunstraum Wohnraum Grapevine’s Happy Mondays (Home gallery) Every Monday in July Ásabyggð 2, Akureyri Icelandic comedian Snorri Open by appointment. “Hergill” Kristjánsson will perform Tel.: 462 3744 a preview of his one man stand- July 5 – 20 September up comedy show “Dog Day King” Huginn Þór Arason exhibition which is going to the Edinburgh Skaftfell Fringe Festival this August. Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Thoughts on relocating to London www.skaftfell.is from a country with roughly the Current Exhibition: population of Coventry are freely Journey - a collaboration between mixed with (among other things) three art centres, realized espe- ruminations on national identity, cially for the Reykjavík Art Festival. big questions that keep him up Skaftfell’s contribution to Journey at night (who did let the dogs is an exhibition by SkyrLeeBob out?), and a story about meeting PIZZAS,SALADS,BURGERS,STEAKS, now on display in the gallery. Jude Law. Snorri will perform his Sláturhúsið stand-up at Organ and admission SANDWICHES,SEAFOOD,KIDS MEALS AND SO MUCH MORE! Kaupvangur, Egilsstaðir is 1.500 ISK. www.slaturhusid.is Open by appointment; [email protected] Current Exhibition: Sara Björnsdóttir exhibition Continued on B10 KEFLAVÍK’S FAVORITE RESTAURANT FOR OVER 20YEARS Useful Numbers A B C D E F Emergency number: 112 Police: 444 1000 Medical help: 1770 Dental emergency: 575 0505 AA: 551 2010 Information: 118 1 Telegrams: 146 RESTAURANT Press reviews: Tax Free Refund ð .. Probably the best Iceland Refund, Fiskisló A›alstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 addition to Icelandic www.icelandrefund.com restaurant landscape Opening Hours 2 .. Great food, Grandagarður Bars and clubs: According to regula- something new in tions bars may be open until 01:00 on Iceland, like never weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. seen before Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Fine dining Indian closed. The shopping centres Kringlan The Old Harbour cusine, hard to beat and Smáralind as well as most super- markets and tourist shops have longer 3 anywhere!! Ánanaust opening hours. M ýra Frakkastigur 12, Swimming pools: rgat a tel: 551-7722 weekdays 06:30-22:30, weekends Nýlenduga open 17 til late 08:00-20:30 although some may be open www.indianmango.is an hour longer. ta svegur The State owned ÁTVR liquor stores: 4 Framne Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat 11-18. Ránargat Vesturgat Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri a Bárugat a Geirsgata 09-16. a a Tourist Information Öldugat

gisgat Icelandic Travel Market Bræðraborgarstígur a Æ Tr Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, træti yggvag s 8 www.kleif.is 5 4 rða at Information on day tours, accommoda- a 5 a tions, car rental and everything else you G Túngat Hafnars Sk Sæbrau need to know when travelling in Iceland. a Austurst træti úlagat t Tourist Information Centre ræti Lindargat a A›alstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, a a www.visitreykjavik.is Ban kastræt Sæbraut Offers information for tourists as well as 6 a 7 Hver ígur i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i providing internet access, booking ser- i a

vice, a phone centre, money exchange ser- ækjargat a L 2 lapparst vice, tax refund and selling the Reykjavík sstræt K tígur ta s i L Tourist Card. The Reykjavík Tourist Card augavegur tns Hringbraut rga gholt Va ún gives admission to city busses, various n Ingólfsstræt Borgart Þi arstræt museums, Reykjavík swimming pools, Suðu ð rnargata H The Family Park and Reykjavík Zoo, The a ta Skólavör ver 7 Tj fisgat Culture House and the National and a Bergs

University Library. ð tígur L us City Pond aufásvegur tígur Getting Around Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur a rakkas La íki F ugavegur a Public Transport r Nó F Óðinsgata ígur The only public transport system in 6 st Grettisg Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run ev- ta at Vi a ery 20 minutes and price per fare is 280 8 Njálsga Hátún ISK for adults and 100 ISK for children. a kimelur ta Snorrabraut Complete route map at: www.bus.is. Tel: Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur 540 2700 Baldursgat a Laug Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- Sóleyjarga a a Brautarholt avegur days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends Bragagat Taxi Njarðargat

Hreyfill-Bæjarlei›ir, ta 9 uðarárstígur Skipholt

Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Ra ta r Skipholt Bergst BSR, Tel: 561 0000 rga Eiríksgata Barónsstígu tún For disabled travellers: Suðu Hringbrau Hljómskáli aðarstræti a Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Park Nó L Brunasta›ir 3, Tel: 587 8030, aufásvegur t www.randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ t travel_service/ 10 Háteigsv Airlines Snorrabraut egur unnarsbrau Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, G Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Flókagat Vat rstígur Air Vestmannaeyjar, nsmýrarvegur a

Tel: 481 3255, www.eyjaflug.is Gamla Hringbraut uðará ta Bus Terminal 11 Ra BSÍ, Vatnsm‡rarvegur 10, Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Njarðarga Miklatún

Flybus Hringbra íð Busses run daily from the BSÍ Bus Bus terminal Terminal to Keflavík International ut ngahl La Ból staðarhlí Airport in connection with all departing Mi klabr ð flights. Departures daily from 04:45 to 12 aut 15:00/16:30 (every 15 - 60 minutes). For glumýrarbraut in Flybus time schedule see: Kr www.flybus.is Samferda.net A reasonable choice for the budget traveller. You log on to the website www. samferda.net, choose your destination 13 and hopefully find a travel buddy to share mgc4/+12*22 the cost. Domestic Airport qqq(]chn[g[hc(cm

Fun & FINE DINING 561 1111 GEIRSGATA 9 101 REYKJAVIK ORANGE.IS G H I J K L M N

Reykjavík What’s this Ask for a Tax Free ð Center thing? 1 form & save up to 15% Fiskisló City Map These things are pretty useful, check it out: Every venue that’s mentioned in our Grandagarður info section gets a little marker like this, which will help you locate it on our map. Say you want to try out “Tapas Bar” after reading our review - no problem, sir, just look up the corresponding icon on the Stylish leather hand- The Old Harbour map! bags and accessories & some of the world’s Ánanaust M most exotic skins for ýra rgat sale including beautiful a Nýlenduga Icelandic fish skin. ta svegur Leður & List amne Fr Ránargat Frakkastíg 7 Vesturgat a Bárugat a Geirsgata 101 Reykjavík a a www.leduroglist.is Öldugat gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a Æ Tr træti yggvag s rða at a a G Túngat Hafnars Sk Sæbrau a Austurst træti úlagat t ræti Lindargat a a a Ban kastræt Sæbraut a Hver ígur i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i i a

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Domestic Airport

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 1090.- 1290.- From 11:30--15:00 From 15:00--22:00 Order food online Tel. 5510292 to get it delivered AUSTURSTRÆTI 4 at a www.shalimar.is INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE B12 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Listings & Shopping EVENTS Shopping Continued from B7 Alive and Kicking Eistnaflug Reykjavík Safari July 10-13 July 10 at 20:00 Reviewed by Nathaniel Flagg The summer’s largest Metal On Thursday, July 10, you can and Rock festival. Eistnaflug take a guided walking tour of Skólavörðustigur, that clas- Eggert Feldskeri (Flight of the Testes, a pun on downtown Reykjavík where the sic street of colourful tin The Furrier shop Eggert Feldskeri is still going strong as it has for over fifty years. the name of Iceland’s more culture and history of the city A little, understated shop nestled at number 38, it sells every kind of animal from traditional outside festival, centre will be introduced. You houses and shops advanc- rabbit to bobcat to leopard, all designed by Mr. Eggert himself. Because every piece Neistaflug.) is a must for all can choose if you want to join ing up to majestic Hall- available is one of a kind, and few species for sale are actually native to Iceland so rock fans in Iceland. Renowned an English, Spanish or Polish grimskirkja church, has prices here can really soar. But even if you don’t plan to buy anything, it’s worth at for being a wild party, the speaking guide. The walks least a browse through Eggert’s luxurious menagerie. festival now offers two tenting take about an hour, after which been looking a bit worse areas, one for families and all three groups meet at the for wear in recent months. Café Babalú people who want to take it easy Reykjavík Art Museum for an The space outside Café Babalú has already begun being munched upon by tractors, and the other for your everyday intercultural get-together with Between the green scaffold- but the cozy little coffeehouse still manages business as usual. Packed tight with cantankerous party animal. some music, coffee and a light ing of Hallgrimskirkja, and old furniture and fully shelved bookcases, you’ll feel as if you’ve fallen back into snack. Sverrir Norland, poet, the big orange backhoes Creative Summer Groups songwriter and “poet laureat” your Grandmother’s kitchen. What’s more, you’ll never want to leave. Reykjavík is a city of wonders. of the youth culture house Hitt along Skólavörðustígur, Instead of getting mad when húsið, will perform. The walks Leifur Eiriksson’s heroic Yggdrasill teenagers want to goof off all start at Reykjavík City Library There is still space between the encroaching construction and Yggdrasill, but even day and dance and play music at Tryggvagata 15. They are stance is subtly betrayed, when it finally reaches it, we at Grapevine doubt it will change much. Offering the city pays them. Well it does free of charge and require no now scouting over a messy everything organic from food to cosmetics, Yggdrasill is always full of health-con- liven up the city, supports booking. The program is hosted construction site. With all scious shoppers. And when school gets out, the organic ice cream brings children artistic interest and keeps the by the Reykjavik City Library, in seeking a healthy treat. kids busy with something other The Reykjavik Art Museum, the patience of a glacier, than drinking, drug abuse and City Museum and the Reykjavik construction has been mak- The Naked Ape premarital sex. Every Friday Museum of Photography. The hip and colorful designer store The Naked Ape rests at the intersection of the groups storm the town in ing its way down the street Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur, selling clothes and accessories as well as other a whirlwind of dancing music from top to bottom, blocking curiosities, all in the trademark’s vibrant colours and patterns. The Naked Ape and acting. More information at off traffic and seemingly http://www.hitthusid.is. soon plans to celebrate a three-year anniversary, and a full three years of serving as business. To get to the top an irreplaceable mainstay of the Reykjavík shopping scene. Prayer Hour of the hill, pedestrians must July 4 at 21:00 12 Tónar Artist Snorri Ásmundsson navigate paths around fresh 12 Tónar, located further up on Skólavörðustígur, remains an indispensable part has quite often been in the asphalt, deep ditches and of the Reykjavík music scene. All at once a music store, coffee shop and an inde- spotlight for his uncomfortably heavy machinery, scuttling pendent label, 12 Tónar has become a perfect hangout for music lovers, who can controversial experiments flop on a couch with a cup of coffee and enjoy the music selection for hours. but his newest event may not over wooden bridges that be so uncomfortable at all. shield new piping. However, Skólavörðustígur may have temporarily lost some of its charm under layers of new A one hour prayer session tar and tractor treads, but its spirit still survives in each of the unique little shops at Hljómskálagarður, where Skólavörðustígur still has a along it. Brave the towering machines and winding fence, there’s still plenty to find people from all creeds, races healthy amount of activity on this treasured street. and religions are invited to join about it despite these nui- together and pray in whatever way they want, to whichever sances and shops are main- higher power they want about taining regular hours and anything the want. bringing in customers as much as ever.

Shopping | Venue finder

12 Tónar Blue Lagoon Store Friða Frænka Handprjónasam- you can get a bargain Nakti Apinn -VODICVĊFU FBDI XFFLEBZ Skólavörðustígur 15 Laugavegur 15 | G7 Vesturgata 3 | D5 bandið on almost anything at Bankastræti 14 | F7 | G8 All the natural skincare A real treasure chest Lækjargata 2A | E6 this indoor flea market. Offers an amazing ar- ##2HSJMMXJUIHPPEXFBUIFS A record label as well products from the fa- of antique furniture All sorts of hand knit Kraum ray of colorful designer as a store, all the best mous geothermal spa and vintage accoutre- woolen clothing as Aðalstræti 10 | D6 wear as well as con- .BLFUIFNPTUPGUIF*DFMBOEJDTVNNFS new Icelandic music at their outlet here. ments to perk up your well as fine yarns and Featuring the best in temporary media. on CDs or live on Fri- Cintamani apartment. knitting supplies. contemporary Icelan- Spúútnik BOEFOKPZGSFTIMZHSJMMFEGPPEPVUEPPST days at 5 PM. Laugavegur 11 | F7 G-Star Raw Iða dic design of everyday Laugavegur 32 | G7 JOPVSTPVUIGBDJOHTVNNFSHBSEFO Aftur Featuring quality Laugavegur 86 | I8 Lækjargata 2A | E6 items of any kind. One of the best sec- Laugavegur 23 | G7 Icelandic outdoor gear, A store for the Dutch A great source for all Kronkron ondhand shops in the Aftur’s internation- you can even book an jeans brand, an edgy kinds of reading mate- Laugavegi 63B | I8 country, with recycled ally acclaimed label is excursion on the spot. collection with innova- rial, with restaurants This hip new shop clothes at a range of (SFBUWBMVFCVĊFU proudly displayed here Dead tive details and washes. on the second floor. stocks the latest trends prices. >h`#'#&*%#" in their shop/studio. Laugavegur 29 | G7 Galleri Sautján Kisan in everything from Trilogia Álafoss Artist Jón Sæmundur Laugavegur 91 | I8 Laugavegur 7 | F7 socks to sweaters. Laugavegur 7 | F7 Laugavegur 1 | F7 Auðarson’s own hand- Stocking many hip An interesting mix of Liborius A collection of trendy The downtown outlet printed Rock and labels, a unisex store items from all around Laugavegur 7 | F7 designer wear fills for famous makers of Roll label, Dead, plus offering casual busi- the world you won’t One of a kind, very the shop, summery traditional Icelandic others. nesswear to evening find anywhere else. high-end shop featur- dresses, sweaters and woolens. Fígúra dresswear. Kisuberjatréð ing the latest, crispest skirts. Belleville Skólavörðustígur Glamúr Vesturgata 4 | D5 designs for both sexes. The Viking Laugavegur 25 | G7 | G8 Laugavegur 41 | H7 A lovely gallery/gift Mál og Menning Hafnarstræti 3 | E5 Stuffed with trendy This shop features A flashy vintage cloth- shop run by ten artists Laugavegur 18 | G7 This large tourist shop streetwear designs as Icelandic designer ing shop with every- and designers where A multi-level store with sells all sorts of smart well as funky maga- wear, everything from thing from necklaces they sell their products. games, books, sou- souvenirs to bring zines and media. street clothes to party to fur coats to kimonos. Kolaportið venirs and a bustling back home. dresses. Tryggvagata 19 | E5 café on the top floor. Open on weekends, H^\ic^$iZa#*&)-%-%$lll#

Great Tapas from kr. 550.-

Tel:551-2344 [email protected] Address: Vesturgata 3b 101 Reykjavík Iceland’s very ﬁrst Tapas-Bar B10 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Food reviews

Food Food Tapas Barinn 22

Reviewed by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Reviewed by Nathaniel Flagg

The Tapas Bar on Vesturgata has I ordered ‘the journey into Where: 22, formerly known as Barinn, plied when coupled with the dip- Where: long been one of my favourite the unknown,’ seven tapas and Vesturgötu 3b has done a lot in recent weeks ping sauce. But with the beer it Laugavegur 22 destinations when I plan to go a dessert selected by the kitchen 101 Reykjavík to change its image to that of a was delicious, its prickly breadi- 101 Reykjavík out, dine and meet friends. The staff. The highlight may well Tel.: 551 2344 friendlier place. The urban mu- ness matching beautifully with Tel.: 578 7800 location is a bonus, but the fact have been the bacon wrapped rals that once covered the walls the tangy, salty potatoes. Despite that it serves excellent food for a scallops and figs, but it faced 8 D5 were painted over in gentler, containing delicious things like 9 G7 relatively healthy price is really some stiff competition from muted pastel. They’ve gotten all bacon, spinach, guacamole, and the clincher for me. No less im- both the crab salad and the kan- How much: new DJs, and started serving grilled chicken, the sandwich How much: portant is the lively atmosphere garoo a la Crocodile Dundee. 1000 – 5000 ISK their own food. 22 has been tak- just tasted uniformly of bacon, 1.000-3.000 ISK that makes it a good option for And the chocolate cake; well, it What we think: ing strides to expand its range no matter how many bites I took What we think: a relaxed evening with friends just took the cake, so to speak. to the daytime customer. That to find those other toppings. Af- and loved ones, but for more My companion selected ‘the said, 22 still thoroughly main- ter a while it dawned on me the formal occasions… well, lets just bullfighter’s tapas,’ the fillet of tains a bar atmosphere, despite weight the food took on, consoli- say I would probably not take my beef, lamb, chicken and pork, a significant shift in the op- dating into a queasy brick in my grandmother there for her nine- with some grilled lobster tails posite direction. With coloured stomach. My sandwich started tieth birthday – unless she was in garlic and oil. Both dishes halogen lighting, disco balls, a to look more and more like an feeling particularly rowdy. clocked in at around 4000 ISK; spacious upstairs, and accessible adversary. I didn’t finish it. As the name might hint, The by no means a fire sale, but con- bathrooms, 22 is still set up to be 22 is definitely putting in Tapas Bar specialises in the sidering that I was barely able a happening night spot. the effort to bring people in off Spanish tapas tradition. Tapas to stand after consuming all The menu at 22 looks really, the street for a quick bite and are traditionally served as a the food it entailed, it might be really good and everything is a beer for lunch. However, it small appetizer between full a small bargain. But there is no very well-priced. Matching an still puts the drinks first when meals, but as Spanish cuisine real need to go in there to order a appetizer with a sandwich was it comes down to it. Sitting has moved westwards through seven dish combo-meal. You can no picnic. In my desperation, I perched on a high seat in a dark, the continent, it has become just as easily step in to grab a lit- ordered a grilled chicken sand- stale room with only a trickle common for restaurants to of- tle snack for less than 1000 ISK. wich alongside a beer, with a of light squeaking in from the fer several small dishes together Perfect for those long nights out, bread basket to start (oops). My clear summer’s day outside, I to make a full meal. The great especially considering that the bread basket arrived promptly, was still being served lunch, but advantage this offers is variety. kitchen is open until 01:00 on and featured freshly toasted at a bar in the daytime. The food You know the feeling you get weekend-nights. bread with dried tomato and ol- is good, but to be fully satisfac- when you look at a menu and ive spread and parmesan cheese. tory, a smooth level of intoxica- you just want to taste everything These were all okay but never got tion seems to be necessary. With on it? Well, here that is actually beyond that, no matter the com- an affordable menu designed encouraged. bination of condiments I tried. to match and soak up alcohol The sandwich was quick to fol- without sapping your wallet too low, accompanied with little fried much, 22 is still firmly planted potatoes and a creamy dipping on the late night bar route. sauce. The potatoes were over- salted, a taste which was multi-

Food & Drink | Venue finder

Aktu Taktu intimidated by the perpetual 3 Frakkar Hlölla Bátar rebröd can be an elusive fee joint and founder of Ice- Segafredo Thorvaldsen Skúlugata 15 | K8 line in front – an absolute Baldursgata 14 | F9 Ingólfstorg | D6 delicacy. Lucky for us out in landic coffee culture. Regular Lækjatorg | E6 Austurstræti 8 | E6 This drive-in destination in must and worth the wait. A seriously Icelandic at- The first sub sandwich shop the colonies, it’s alive and art exhibits are always worth The Italian coffee chain Dress formally for this fancy 101 Reykjavík is busy day and Café Cultura mosphere and traditional in Iceland, Hlölla Bátar has a well at Jómfrúin with fresh a look. makes its way to Lækjatorg spot, and come before 12 night and the burgers are Hverfisgata 18 | G6 Icelandic dishes prepared large selection of creatively eel imported specially from Nonnabiti Square, bringing strong to avoid a long line. DJs especially tasty. The caramel Situated in the intercultural in the good old-fashioned named sandwiches with Denmark. Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 espresso and Italian lunch play Thursdays, Fridays and shakes are a local favorite. centre, Cultura is a café/bar way. RSVP and keep your equally imaginative contents. Kaffi Hljómalind “Nonna” is one of the more snacks to grab on the way Saturdays. American Style with a cosmopolitan feel. The ears pricked for wild whaling Good for an adventurous bite. Laugavegur 21 | G7 popular junk-food places in to work or just to enjoy on Tíu Dropar Tryggvagata 26 | E5 menu features all sorts of tales! Hornið This organic, free-trade café town, renowned for its greasy the spot. Laugavegur 27 | G7 With a soft bun and lots of international dishes, along- Geysir Bar/Bistro Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 prides itself not only on great sandwiches and its unique Shalimar An old-fashioned café with veggies, you can settle into a side the staple salad and Aðalstræti 2 | D6 Since 1979, this Italian res- lunches and food but being a Nonni-sauce. Open late for a Austurstræti 4 | E6 warm atmosphere and gener- booth and eat for hours. Big sandwich. Situated in the dignified taurant has been a longtime strong cultural center, hosting midnight cravings. Shalimar sports the conceit ous coffee refills. A thorough- portions for authentic Ameri- Café Paris Geysir Building at the corner Reykjavík staple. Famous for live music as well as lectures O Sushi of being the northernmost ly pleasant establishment. can dining. Austurstræti 14 | E6 of Vesturgata and Aðalstræti, its pizza and stuffed calzones, and poetry nights. Lækjargata 2A | E6 Indian restaurant in the world Tjarnarbakkinn Argentína Steakhouse With an outdoor terrace, this this stylish bistro is always it proudly offers an affordable Kaffitár Also called “The Train”, O Su- and has fine daily specials. Vonarstræti 3 | D7 Barónstígur | I8 café gets busy on sunny a good place to grab a tasty menu of high-quality dishes Bankastræti 8 | F6 shi’s most intriguing feature We recommend the quite ad- Right above the Iöno theater, True to its name with tender days. With a cosy interior, fine bite for a reasonable price. Hótel Holt Kaffitár celebrates good is a conveyor belt that runs dictive chicken tikka masala. an ideal place to go before steaks and flamingly vibrant menu and attentive service, it Garðurinn Bergstaðarstræti 37 | F7 coffee, and serves it in around the entire restaurant Sjávarkjallarinn shows. Nice views of the South American décor. Gen- makes a fine spot for evening Klappastigur 37 | G7 Housing Iceland´s most abundance, along with sweet delivering a buffet of authen- Aðalstræti 2 | D6 pond and outdoor dining in erous portions, fine wine, dining as well. “Ecstasy’s Heart” is a simple, renowned restaurant, The treats and tasty if pricy spe- tic sushi straight to your table. Elegant Seafood Cellar fo- the summertime. The lamb liqueurs and cigars make an Café Roma friendly, family-run vegetarian Gallery, an evening here is cial blends. Eat in or to go, a Pizza King cuses on gourmet seafood comes especially recom- excellent choice in fine dining. Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 restaurant on Klapparstígur. an unforgettable experience. great way to enjoy your morn- Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 and tantalizing asian-fusion mended. Austurlandahraðlestin Roma, an Italian deli and Offers an ever-changing Delicious French-inspired ing boost. This little place serves not dishes. Share the exotic menu, Vegamót Hverfisgata 64A | H7 café offers a variety of breads, menu of specials and soup cuisine and fine wines await. Kaffivagninn only the cheapest but larg- courses selected by the chef, Vegamótastígur 4 | G7 Though a bit expensive for soups as well as tempting du jours, alongside a basic Humarshúsið Grandagarður 10 | D1 est slices downtown. A local with a friend for the most fun. Vegamót´s kitchen is open take-away, it is well worth it desserts. For a good bargain, menu Ammtmanstígur 1 | E7 By the harbor, this lunch and favorite, and open until 6 on Sólon until 22.00 daily and sports an for a spicy bite of this Indian come at lunchtime for the Grái Kötturinn One of the oldest restaurants coffee place is a gathering Friday and Saturday nights. Bankastræti 7a | F6 appealing lunch menu. Come cuisine. A few tables to the specials. Hverfisgata 16A | G7 in the country, the lobster place for all sorts of tough Pizza Pronto Truly a jack-of-all trades for a tasty brunch on week- side for those who choose Café Victor Legendary for its early open- house is known of course for folks. If you want traditional Vallarstræti 4 | D6 establishment. By night a ends. If you like Óliver, try to dine in. Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D6/E6 ing ours, the Gray Cat serves its lobster and also its im- Icelandic food, a great place With a convenient location decent restaurant, by day a Vegamót and vice versa. Á Næstu Grösum A hangout for older foreign- amazing breakfasts and pressive cognac lounge. Fine to see another side of Reyk- and late hours, a good place café/bistro and on Friday and Við Tjörnina Laugavegur 20B | G7 ers, Victor attracts a diverse coffee that packs a wallop. A intimate dining. javík. to snack in between bars. Saturday nights a nightclub. Templarasund 3 | E7 Regarded by many to be crowd, both in age and origin, splendid way to start you off Hressó Kofi Tómasar Frændu Three sizes of pizza with a Art exhibitions on the walls to A Reykjavík classic with menu the best vegetarian place in a rule that extends to the mu- on your day. Austurstræti 20 | E6 Laugavegur 2 | F7 good selection of toppings. A top it off. exclusively of traditional cui- town, “First Vegetarian” offers sicians that play there. Great Wall Restaurant With a spacious neutral inte- Nestled in a basement loca- cheap, if unhealthy, choice. Sushibarinn sine, as frequented by tourists a healthy and tasty menu of Domo Vesturgata 6-8 | D5 rior and a varied lunch menu, tion, Uncle Tom´s Cabin has Prikið Laugavegur 2 | F7 as it is by locals. A perfect vegetarian and vegan dishes. Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 This Chinese restaurant Hressó attracts no specific the feeling of a back-alley Bankastræti 12 | F6 Deceptively ordinary Sushi- opportunity to try Icelandic Indian theme on Fridays a hit. The elegantly decorated features a staggering 100+ type of crowd. Tap beer and London Café. On weekends Part of the Reykjavík bar barinn has recently become delicacies. B5 Domo serves delicious dishes in traditional Szechuan, music makes a fair hangout it becomes a happening and scene for decades, this café/ the talk of the town among Vitabar Bankastræti 5 | F6 French-Asian cuisine, excel- Peking and Cantonese styles. on weekends. diverse bar. bar has a fairly cheap menu Reykjavík sushi lovers, serv- Bergþórugata 21 | H9 By day a chic little bistro lent sushi and has a great Great service and good food Icelandic Fish & Chips Krua Thai and attracts a mix of students ing, in our opinion, the very Really a bar, but best known with good food and a prime wine list. A sure choice. make this one a fine choice. Tryggvagata 8 | E5 Tryggvagata 14 | D5 and old regulars. Mostly R&B best rolls in city. for its hamburgers. Burger location for Laugavegur Eldsmiðjan Grillhúsið Not your average fish’n’chips We dare you to find a bet- and Hip-Hop on weekends. Svarta Kaffi and fries for 500 one of people watching | by night Bragagata 38A | G9 Tryggvagata 20 | E5/E6 joint, but a healthy restaurant ter meal for the same price Raðhúskaffi | D7 Laugavegur 54 | H8 the best deals in town, but a stylish bar with a “whiskey Totally satisfying oven-baked With a menu of reasonably using only organic vegetables anywhere else. Every dish is Tjarnargata 11 A cosy second floor café, Forget-Me-Not blue cheese room” and manhattanesque pizza with a wide choice of priced homestyle food, Grill- and quality fish products. The delicious. Just eat what looks Located in the City Hall with their fame lies partly in their and Garlic Extravaganza are clientele. toppings | snails an unusual húsið has satiated hungry spiced skyr side a special best to you on their colorful a great view of the pond, this tasty Súpa í Brauði (Soup in alse winners. Babalú specialty. Well worth the cost. regulars since 1994 with juicy treat. menu. café has a good selection of Bread) and also in their ro- Vor Skólavörðustígur 22A | G8 Order, take away or eat com- burgers, sandwiches, steaks Indian Mango La Primavera pastries and a good place to mantic atmosphere. Good for Laugavegur 24 | G7 It’s tough to miss café Babalú fortably among the paintings. and fish dishes. Frakkarstígur 12 | H8 Austurstræti 9 | E6 relax. Regular art exhibits add a few early evening drinks. Though perhaps a typical walking up Skólavörðustigur. Fiskmarkaðurinn Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar Specializing in delicious Though it sounds strange, La to the aesthetic. Tapas off-lobby restaurant/bar/café, A cozy place for coffee and Aðalstræti 12 | D6 (“Bullan”) dishes from the Goa region Primavera serves delicious Sægreifinn Vesturgata 3B | D5 don’t let it fool you! It’s run by cake, the well-worn, homey Run and co-owned by the Geirsgata 1 | D5 of India, honed to perfection traditional North Italian cui- Verbuð 8, Geirsgata | D5 For those with a bit of money an award-winning chef and ambience makes it difficult national team of chefs, this Considered by some to be the in the owner’s period as head sine using only local produce. Right next to the harbor, and time to spare, Tapas has a tip-top menu | a won- to leave. establishment specializing best real hamburger in Reyk- chef at the Four Seasons. A startlingly tasty combina- Sægrefinn fish shop is like serves course after course of derful culinary experience. Bæjarins Beztu in Japanese cuisine has javík, “Bullan” does serve Incredible service as well tion and a local favorite. none other in the country. delightful miniature dishes. Tryggvagata | E6 everything planned to the last some mysteriously delicious as food. Mokka With a diverse fish selection, Also serves tasty and unusu- The oldest fast-food in Ice- detail, ensuring a relaxing burgers, guaranteed to take Jómfrúin Skólavörðustígur 3A | F7 exquisite lobster soup and ally affordable lobster. land, it is feasibly the best hot evening. the edge off any hangover. Lækjargata 4 | E6 Operating since 1958, Mokka good service, an absolute dog stand in Europe. Don’t be These days, good Smör- is the city center´s oldest cof- must-try. Our latest... Releases

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Vitastígur 13, Dalshraun 9, Víghólastígur 21 www.gulalinan.is Practical Info Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tel: 565 3800 Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, The yellow pages Berg Car Rental, Fríkirkjuvegur 5 www.leigulistinn.is Cultural Centres and Tangarhöfða 8, Pentecostal Assembly, Rent a flat Tel: 577 6050 Services Tourist Offices Hátún 2 www.ja.is Hertz, Roman Catholic Church, Icelandic telephone directory Post Office The Intercultural Centre Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 The Intercultural Centre throws occasional Hávallagata 14 Post offices are located around the city as cultural events and conferences but its main well as in the countryside. The downtown Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Where to Get … purpose is to be an information and counsel- Saints, Ásabraut 2 post office is at Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full Work and residence permit: The Directorate ling centre and serve as an advocate for the Useful Information list and info on opening hours visit www.pos- Jehovah’s Witnesses, of Immigration, Skógarhlíð 6, Tel: 510 5400, rights of immigrants in Iceland. turinn.is. Stamps are also sold in bookstores, Where to Learn Icelandic as a Sogavegur 71 www.utl.is. Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 gas stations, some grocery stores and tourist Foreign Language www.ahus.is Seventh-Day Adventists, Insurance and benefits: The State Social Se- shops. Icelandic on the Internet, Suðurhlíð 36 curity Institute, Laugavegur 114-116, Tel: 560 The Icelandic Tourist Board www.vefskoli.is 4400, www.tr.is Embassies and Consulates Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Zen Buddhism in Iceland, United States, www.visiticeland.com Mímir Continuing Education, Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Icelandic citizenship: Unless you come from a Laufásvegur 21, All information needed before travelling in Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is Independent Church, Nordic country, foreign citizens have to have Tel: 562 9100 Iceland. Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, Háteigsvegur 101 had an unrestricted residence permit in Ice- land for at least seven years in order to get an United Kingdom, Nordic House Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 The Russian Orthodox Church in Iceland, Icelandic citizenship although some excep- Laufásvegur 31, Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Fjölmenning, Sólvallagata 10 tions exist to that general rule. Applications Tel: 550 5100 www.nordice.is Laugavegur 59, Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmen- The Cross, are at the Ministry of Justice and Ecclesiasti- The Nordic cultural centre organises various ning.is Russia, Hlíðasmári 5-7 cal Affairs, cultural events, conferences and exhibitions. Garðastræti 33, The Icelandic College of Engineering and Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also offer Tel: 551 5156 Technology, www.domsmalaraduneyti.is brochures, maps and information for travel- Höfðabakki 9, Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is Trade Unions China, lers. Unemployment benefits: Directorate of Víðimelur 29, Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, The Icelandic Federation of Labour, Labour, Public Employment Service, Tryggva- Tel: 552 6751 Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, gata 17, Tel: 515 4800, For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Affairs: Transportation www.ir.is www.asi.is www.vinnumalastofnun.is www.mfa.is/diplomatic-missions/icelandic- The University of Iceland – The Federation of State and Municipal Icelandic social security number (kennitala): missions/ Rent a Bike Department of Continuing Education, Dun- employees, National Register, Borgartún 24, Tel: 569 Grettisgata 89, Internet Access Borgarhjól, hagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, 2900, Hverfisgata 50, www.endurmenntun.is Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is www.thjodskra.is Most coffeehouses have wireless Internet Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net The Association of Academics, access. Language School Lingva, Driver’s license: Applications at police sta- Borgartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, Computers with Internet connections are HI Hostel, The University of Iceland, at Sturlugata. Tel.: tions.(Those who have a foreign license www.bhm.is available at: Sundlaugarvegur 34, 561 0351, www.lingva.is don’t need an Icelandic one for the first six Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Efling, months.) Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, Tel: 563 Tjarnargata 11 Tourist Information Centre, Religious Movements Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, www.efling.is 1100, www.rsk.is BSÍ Bus Terminal, www.visitreykjavik.is The national church in Iceland is the Evangel- The Commercial Workers’ Union, Social Service: Information and service is pro- Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 ical Lutheran Church. Masses are generally Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is vided by district service centres in Reykjavík. Ground Zero, held on Sundays at 11:00. Service in English Union of Public Servants, To locate the service centre in your neigh- Vallarstræti 10 Car Rentals is at Hallgrímskirkja every last Saturday each bourhood see: www.reykjavik.is month, starting at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Grettisgata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is The Reykjavík City Library, Átak Car Rental, Church also has masses in English and Pol- Tryggvagata 15 Smiðjuvegur 1, ish. The National and University Library, Tel: 554 6040 Useful Websites Other religious movements in Reykjavík are Arngrímsgata 3 ALP, for example: www.visitreykjavik.is Tourist Information Centre, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 The official tourist website of Reykjavík The Muslim Association of Iceland, Aðalstræti 2 Avis, Ármúli 38 www.gayice.is Icelandic Travel Market, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 Information about the gay scene in Iceland Ásatrú Association, Bankastræti 2 Eurocar, Grandagarði 8 www.fjolmenningarsetur.is Laundry Service Hjallahraun 9, The Multicultural Centre Tel: 565 3800 Bahá’í, HI Hostel, Álfabakka 12 www.hostel.is A.G Car Rental, Hostel International in Iceland Sundlaugarvegur 34, The Church of Evangelism, Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Tangarhöfði 8-12. www.vinnumalastofnun.is Tel: 587 5544 Hlíðasmári 9 Úðafoss, Public employment services Atlas Car Rental, The Icelandic Buddhist Movement,

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conversation with add of grammer. I am TEN THOUSAND FINGERS free to meet at your preferred place - home, work, caffe - any time! Just register More than ten thousand fingers have played beautiful music on this piano, since on [email protected] or call Paola 857 it arrived in Eyrarbakki village in 1871. It was brought across the Atlantic on a large 4143! merchantman, then hauled into a small fishing boat and rowed ashore, where four strong men carried it into the village in a Qualified English teacher (native British terrible rainstorm. But you can touch it now in the Húsið museum in Eyrarbakki. speaker) available for private lessons. Masters Degree Applied Linguistics and TESOL qualified (University of Cambridge). Call Russell 849 7337 or e mail: russellal- [email protected] for further details Accommodation

Open May 15th - Sept. 15th: 11 - 18. Other times by arrangement. | www.husid.com Hótel Vík Personals: Tel: 588-5588 Email: [email protected] Looking for a penfriend, preferably an Ice- www.hotelvik.is landic woman between the age of 45 and One of the best 3 star hotels in Reykjavík. 60. I live in north Queensland, Australia, and I am a family person. I would prefer Hótel Varmahlíð the old fashioned method of correspond- Tel: 003544538170 ence. My address: 18 Cedarbrook Ter- Email: [email protected] race, IDALIA, TOWNSVILLE 4811, North www.hotelvarmahlid.is Queensland,Australia. A small comfortable hotel of 19 rooms Thanks. with private facilities and a restaurant Denise Moore concentrating on local cuisine from the [email protected] Skagafjörður region. Other: Dimmuborgir Guesthouse Geiteyjarströnd 1, 660 Mývatn I am a native British speaker and qualified Tel: 4644210 PA with more than 10 years Email: [email protected] experience across a variety of business www.dimmuborgir.is My name is tory and i am a 30 year old sectors, working at senior manager Located right next to the peacefull lake Car for sale. VW Polo 2000, 1.4L Australian who loves Iceland, (almost more and director level. I am currently learning Mývatn, surrounded by Icelands most Manual.152,000 Km.Well maintained. New than the font helvetica.) i am looking to Icelandic and would be willing popular wonders of natur, the Dimmubor- time belt, new sparks, Summer and Winter work in Iceland for the summer. i work in to consider working in exchange for help Gesthús Dúna gir Guesthouse offers room and nice tyres. Price: 470,000 ISK / negotiable. the festival + music realm, but before that building my verbal and written Suðurhlíð 35, 105 Reykjavík cottages for a resonable price. Please call 8240310 or E-mail sverrir@ I have worked in publishing and arts. i love skills. Please contact Linda Barton at Tel: 5882100 / Fax: 5882102 dino.is to bake and sew, and make homemade email: [email protected] Email:[email protected], [email protected] Húnaver cordial. Please let me know if you would www.islandia.is/duna Tel: 4527110 The monastic shop “Klausturvörur” is a like to adopt me for the summer - tory- B&B ROOMS FROM 5.000.- SLEEPNG BAG Email: [email protected] store specializing in cosmetics, delicates- [email protected] ACCOMMODATION Húnaver is a nice campingplace 25km sen and artifacts made by nuns and away from Blönduós. We have a big monks in monasteries across Europe. Herb Do you need to keep you memory intact campingplace with washingfacilities and teas, honeys, jams, chocolade, creams, in a professionally way and format? Your electricity for caravans. We also offer For sale: perfumes, shampoo, soaps - unique in weeding, party, business speech or meet- sleepingbag accomodation for up to 40 Iceland! Garðastræti 17 101 Reykjavík tel. ing can be professionally recorded on people. There is also a playground and a Italian Leather Sofa 3x2x1 with Center and 551 5445 Opening hours: monday-friday DVD. Cameraman with 7 years experience footballfield in Húnaver. We also have a coffee table 7 months old 12-7, saturday 12-6 in european television I offer my services little pettingzoo here, and its possible to try Washing Machine, Microwave for companies or individual who want the horses on a field for some rounds. Daihatsu Sirion 4WD Job needed: movies on high standards. With friendly Prices: Camping per night for 1 person Audi A8 prices. Contact at [email protected]. 400 ISK, Electricity 200 ISK, Kitchen use Computers, Printers and office tables Photographer with experience. Family inside 300 ISK, Sleepingback accomoda- All things are in top condition, if interested pictures, individual photo shoots, children Education: tion 1000 ISK, Pettingzoo 300 ISK. Please call 8476602. photography, weddings, other memorial moments and low price. Please check my PRIVATE ITALIAN LANGUAGE LESSONS pictures on http://picasaweb.google.pl/ Do you want to learn quickly Italian before lukaszsalata. Contact at chrumm@interia. you go to your summer vacation? My pl or by phone: 6174321 teaching method is based on everyday B15 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 09 2008 Info

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