Fabrizio Foschini Kabul Unpacked A geographical guide to a metropolis in the making

For the last few years Kabul has grown as fast as the opportunities for foreigners (and some Afghans) to explore and travel to every corner of the city have dwindled. This situation helps conjure up the simplified idea of Kabul as a bi-polar city to people new to it: an administrative and diplomatic Green Zone surrounded by undifferen- tiated clusters of mud houses or poppy palaces. Kabul is a far more complex environment than that and one worth discovering, or at least trying to understand. Fabrizio Foschini has put together a reasonably comprehen- sive, yet concise description of Kabul’s 22 urban districts (Ali Mohammad Sabawoon and Rohullah Sorush con- tributed to the research). This goes together with an interactive map, detailing the principal neighbourhoods within each district, their history and landmarks, details about the population and major security trends.

It is not easy to describe Kabul, a city of maybe six reinforced by unprecedented demographic and urban million inhabitants (this figure, as many other things growth and by political trends that contribute all the about Kabul, is disputed) in a few introductory para- more to making it a unique place in the Afghanistan graphs.1 Probably wiser is to stick to a reminder of its context. The other side of the coin is that this burgeon- importance and centrality for Afghanistan and who- ing growth has compounded the problems already af- ever looks at it. flicting the capital: inadequate housing and sanitation, land grabs and lack of ownership documents, poverty, Since it became the capital of Afghanistan in 1775­ traffic (read an earlier AAN report about this here), –1776, Kabul has been its unrivalled political, cultural pollution and criminality. Urban growth has made and economic centre (more about this historical pe- their solution much less likely and has created new riod in this AAN dispatch). In recent years, its role as a problems, especially because of the increasing levels ‘primate city’ (that is, a city twice as large and impor- of political violence to which the city’s population has tant as the next largest city in the country) has been been exposed. 1 This report was based on notes on Kabul’s neighbourhoods taken while researching the micro- A virtual tour of the city – probably the best use to political economy of the capital for the United States which these few notes on the city neighbourhoods Institute of Peace (USIP). The USIP research was published can be put to – should probably start from the original as a report, “Kabul and the Challenge of Dwindling Foreign Aid” in April 2017. The author’s notes have been core of this metropolis. Kabul’s history goes back at expanded with on-the-ground research this year.

The author wishes to thank Shirazuddin Siddiqi and Jolyon Leslie for comments on an earlier version of this text and editors Kate Clark and Thomas Ruttig. 2 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

least 3,000 years. The ancient settlement nestled on town, curse or boon of the lofty range of hills cutting the southern bank of the Kabul river, its back shielded the Kabul plateau in two, the alleys of Kart-e Se and by the impassable Sher Darwaza mountain, combined Kart-e Chahar (Kart-e from the French ‘quartier’) have the strategic location of a commercial hub and the im- at times sheltered from the raging political madness pregnability of an administrative centre. It flourished those who were not fit or willing to take part in it. A for many centuries under people with different creeds new cycle of violence, this time on sectarian pretexts, and languages. In due time, the Old City forsook its po- is looming ominously over this side of Kabul, like the litical role but has retained its commercial importance, black clouds of a storm capping the Paghman range. at least in the hearts of the city’s inhabitants, amid the Meanwhile, many people opted to leave: only a frac- ruins of its blown-up bazaars.2 tion of the pre-war Kabulis (sometimes referred to as Politics moved to the flat areas on the northern bank bumi) remain, and not many came back for good after of the river. It is here that the main newer seats of 2001. Waves of exile hit this landlocked country, and power (the Presidential, formerly Royal, Palace and the capital, though with a late start, was among its the American Embassy among others) are to be found. most-affected parts. Anti-communists disappeared in All around this New City (Shahr-e Naw), Kabul has ex- 1978–79, and leftists left in 1992, followed by whoever panded and developed. Pitifully, this centrality nowa- could afford to travel abroad during the catastrophic days extends to its relevance as a target for political civil war of 1992–96 among the mujahedin factions.3 violence. It also entails that whenever a VIP meeting The ruined remains of Kabul were taken over by the happens in this part of the city, where all roads lead Taleban, who added their share of misery to the lives and which is now HESCO-walled more than the old of the inhabitants. Then, with the 2001 interven- hilltop forts were, communications across Kabul get tion came a boom and a new real estate market was shut down and the traffic stops (see this earlier AAN born, meaning that many tenants residing in the most dispatch). sought-after residential areas were evicted simply During the 1950s and 1960s, Afghan governments at because their property had suddenly acquired value, peace planned expansions of the city to the north, the and many house owners were pressured to sell. The east and the west. They had a square block layout cut latest big outward flow of Kabulis is just taking place, by a regular grid of avenues to form residential areas with thousands of the city’s youth leaving for Europe meant for the modern comfort of an urban middle- in search of better opportunities and security. class. The city was growing slowly – more or less at For everybody who has left, many other people have, the moderate pace by which the Afghan state was in the meantime, arrived. Already during the Tale- attempting to reform and modernise itself – being ban times, the city had become a forced choice for shaped by and shaping in turn a population of Kabulis those fleeing the battle lines between the Taleban who identified with the city and its lifestyle. More and Ahmad Shah Massud in the Shomali Plateau to recently, the more-central among those areas, Taimani the north. Many more returned to the city after 2001 and Qala-ye Fathullah for example, came to host a sig- from their temporary shelters in the provinces or from nificant number of expats and NGO offices in a frenzy abroad. The massive presence of the international of refurbishment, relocation and retreat. community and the boomtown economy that derived West Kabul, by comparison, has probably experienced from it made Kabul a magnet for labourers, clerks and some sort of ‘circular history’ that allowed at least students from all over the country. parts of it to go through cycles of destruction and back The construction sector became overnight one of to the (relative) residential quietness for which it was the major characteristics of the city’s economy and meant. Always separate from the bustle of Kabul down-

3 For an overview of which faction held which territory in 2 Kabul’s magnificent covered marketplace, Chahar the city, the locations of frontlines and artillery positions Chatta bazaar, was dynamited by the British ‘Army of and where factions launched their rockets, see Chapter Retaliation’ in 1842; and the whole bazaar area around 6 of the Afghanistan Justice Project’s “Casting Shadows: Jada-e Maiwand was among the worst hit by the shower War Crimes and Crimes against Humanity: 1978–2001 of rockets that fell on the city during the civil war among documentation and analysis of major patterns of abuse mujahedin factions in the 1990s. in the war in Afghanistan”.

AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 3 a major investment sector for the new Afghan elites. master plan for urban development since 1978, when People who could afford to would inhabit one of the the city’s population was meant to be 800,000. When many new housing projects (shahraks) of various finally, with the support of the Japan International styles and scale. Dispossessed nomads and rural in- Cooperation Agency (link to their survey of Kabul city habitants who had fled violence in their home districts districts), one was prepared in 2009, it focused mostly had to make do with living in dilapidated buildings on an area outside of the city: Deh Sabz district, where in un-refurbished parts of the city or occupying state a ‘New Kabul’ was projected. This immediately drew land (basically, all the barren, uncultivated areas are criticism and with some reason: on the one hand considered such) and develop shabby squatters’ settle- it looked as if, with the impossibility of fixing the ments. Contemporary urban architecture trends could capital’s many problems, a decision had been made to be indeed subsumed under this dichotomy: shahraks move out to and plan a brand new city; on the other, and shantytowns (see also this earlier AAN dispatch). concerns were raised about the enormous economic interests that such a plan would involve and given the The impact of this mass of new residents on the city many instances of land grab schemes carried out by is hard to evaluate. Kabul has grown more mixed and members of the Afghan political elite or their allies, has become a true capital in terms of being more chances of avoiding any such occurrence looked rather representative of all the provinces of the country. Yet bleak. the melting pot is not as effective as it used to be. The centre of the city, despite the destruction, or possibly But the issue of the master plan and the non-recogni- because newcomers have to splinter to occupy the tion by the Kabul Municipality of a majority of the new empty places left and do mingle with people from all settlements built all over the city since 1978 have also walks of life in the process, is today more mixed and became highly symbolic of the debate between those is, in its peculiar way, ‘cosmopolitan.’ This despite expounding a rigidly legal approach and those more the fact that residents of the central areas of the city inclined towards deregulation and involvement of the tend to change residence often, to move close to a private sector (like the MoUDA). new working place or to follow economic and security Whatever one’s position, the gap between the trends. The constant movement of residents has a planned city and the reality on the ground has for disruptive effect on social networks, exemplified by some decades now been too wide to bridge. A recur- the often-heard complaint that “one does not know rent characteristic of the housing sector in Kabul one's neighbours anymore.” The peripheries of the seems to be the insecurity of tenure and ownership, city on the other hand show a pattern of settlement and the new developments are often the sketchiest of shaped by communal networks. New immigrants from all. Relatively comfortable shahraks and shabby shan- the provinces tend to settle where they can expect tytowns may seem to be situated at the far ends of the some degree of support from their communities (if social, economic and political divide which is crippling they have such contacts) or on the side of town more Afghanistan (and which finds in Kabul its most glamor- convenient for them when, at least during the first ous stage), but they share one thing: they are often, in stages of their rural-urban migration, they continue to public perception as in legal status, a zorabad,4 a term commute regularly to their place of origin. Therefore, that came to describe a place occupied by force (zor) Panjshiris and Shomalis dwell in the north; Wardaki without the consent of the authorities and without Pashtuns and Hazaras regroup in the west; Logaris and legal ownership. The informality, illegality and instabil- Paktiawals settle down to the southeast and people ity – for even the rich developers of many shahraks from Jalalabad or Mashreqis in general choose the can fear a sudden reversal of their political fortune east. and consequently a danger for their ill-gained posses- It goes without saying that this process is under nobody’s control or planning. Some housing projects 4 There is also the term chorabad, from the Pashto composite verb chor-o-chapawel (to raid and loot), for indeed apply for and receive approval from the Kabul areas grabbed and ‘developed’ by political heavyweights, Municipality (which has a status equal to a ministry) the so-called strongmen. The prime example is Sherpur, and from the Ministry for Urban Development Affairs the area of the nineteenth-century British army (MoUDA). However, there has been no such thing as a cantonment, where the Karzai government handed out plots to members and allies.

January 2019 4 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul Police Districts

PARWAN PROVINCE ´ PARWAN PROVINCE

PD 18

PD 19 Hazara-i-Baghal PD 17 Purozha-i-JadidPanjsad Famili PD 11 Khwaja Bughra Qasaba Tara Khel PD 14 Khishti Hokhtif Hisa-i-Awali Khayr khana Fabrika-i-Khana Sazi Kotali Khayr Khana Dashti Wazirabad Qala-i-Najar Ha Khwaja Bughra Sarayi Shamali Qala-i-Tahoir PD 15 Family Hayi Pulicharkhi Wazirabad Chamani Babrak PD 10 Qarya-i-Malik Ismayil PD 9 Khwaja Rawash Badam Bagh Qala-i-Wakil Taymani Puli Charkhi Pashmina Bafi PD 4 Gumruk Tahiya-i-Maskan Qala-i-Musa Bibi Mahru Kulola Pushta YakatootQabilbay Hood Khel Baghi Bala Microrayani SuwumQala-i-Haji Afshar Shahrara Dawood Khel Karta-i-Wali Qala-i-Shora Hazar Buz Ha Karta-i-Parwan Shahri Naw PD 21 PD 5 Karta-i-Mamurin Simint Khana Shina PD 12 Baharistan Shash DarakMaslakh Nawabadi Fazil beg Khushhal Khan Mena Part Khail Niyaz beg Qoli AbchakanWilayat Microrayani Awal Fazil BegSebangi Aliabad PD 16 PADnd a2rabi Ghazi Stadium Kota-i-Sangi Mandawi Ahmad Shah Baba Mena Qala-i-Wahid Dihburi Chindawul Sarraji Dashti Shina Wa Bagrami Ahangari Siyah Sang Unchi BaghbananPuli Sokhta Baghi Qazi Family Hayi Nasaji Bagrami PD 3 Shor Bazar Guzargah Chamani Bagrami Gul Khana Bangsidar Qalacha Dasto Khel Doghabad Karta-i-Se PD 1 Jangalak Koli Hashmat Khan Bagrami Qala-i-Sher Alam Qala-i-Shada Allawuddin Shuhadayi Saliheen Chahar Qala Wasilabad Du Sad Family Rahman Mena Qala-i-Jabbar Khan Aqa Ali Shams Qala-i-Amir MuhammadBini Hisar Qala-i-Ali MardanQala-i-Wazir Chamani Kamari Wa Bagrami Jayi Rayis Qala-i-Khanadar Qala-i-Bahadur Khan Takhnikum Qala-i-Ghaybi Wilayati Gul Buta PD 13 Qala-i-Bakhtyar Kamari Dih Qalandar PD 8 Qala-i-BagalakNiyazi Afshari Darulaman Dih Dana Chihilsutun Darullaman Qala-i-Hasan Khani UlyaQala-i-Adam KhanDamana Nu burja Farmi Ziraat Qala-i-Mir Ahamd Doghabad Shewaki Temur Khan Sar Asyab PD 7 Qala-i-Haji Karim Qala-i-Taj Gul Chahar Qolba Qala-i-Muslim Dashti Kamari PD 6 PD 22 Qala-i-SurkhQala-i-Fatuh Rishkhuri Payin Qala-i-Kuhna

UZBEKISTAN TAJIKISTAN PD 20

TURKMENISTAN MAIDAN WARDAK CHINA PROVINCE

Kabul o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

Abc Area names PAKISTAN LOGAR Rivers LOGAR IRAN PROVINCE Roads PROVINCIENDIA 0 1 2 km Kabul Historical Wall

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

sions – is what links them all to create the landscape The descriptions of the police districts (PDs) aim at of Kabul nowadays. providing readers with basic information about the following aspects: To float some fixed buoys in this sea of uncertainty, AAN seeks to offer its readers an interactive guide • list of the principal neighbourhoods encompassed of sorts to Kabul.5 Namely, the links on the map will • history of the area and timeframe of development, present separate maps of each of Kabul’s 22 municipal plus landmarks districts and some facts about the neighbourhoods • main architectural and infrastructural characteristics they encompass. Municipal districts or (as they have • details about the population and population sometimes been called) city wards will throughout the changes in the area throughout the last decades texts be referred to as PDs (they coincide with Kabul’s • main security trends in the area police districts) or nahia (the local Dari/Pashto term Kabul figures among the fastest-growing cities in the for city districts). This is consistent with contemporary world and, for good and for bad, this remains one of usage and will make it easier to distinguish between its main characteristics. Therefore, the neighbour- urban and non-urban districts (woluswalis) in those hoods’ descriptions – especially details on security areas where the former have expanded to overlap to – do not aim at being utterly precise and up-to-date, some extent with the latter. but simply introduce the bits and pieces of the capital of Afghanistan to all those who have not so far been 5 Maps have been kindly provided by iMMAP. The spelling lucky enough to explore it for themselves. of local place names might sometimes differ between the text and the maps.

AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 5

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 1

Qoli Abchakan Wilayat Ministry Afghan Geodesy of Defense Ministry of And Cartography Ministry PD 9 Education Head Office (AGCHO) Municipal of Mines Building And Power PD 16 ´ Fire Dih Afghanan Parki Department Supreme Court Ministry Zarnigar Ministry of of Justice Information & Culture Ministry Ghazi Stadium PD 2 of Finance

Joyi Sheer Ministry of Murad Khani Andarabi Ministry of Public Communications Afghan Tourist Health Organization Baghi Ali Mardan

Mandawi Akhiri Jada Chamani Huzuri

Kabul Traffic PD 3 Department Sarraji Kah Furoshi Babayi Khudi Nawabadi Kulali Chindawul Ahangari Dihmazang Dihmazang Shor Bazar Sang Tarashi Darwaza-i-Lahuri Parki Nawroz Puli Artall Shah Shahid Baghi Qazi Ashiqan wa Arifan Hindu Guzar PD 1 Khwaja Safa

Nawabadi Guzarga PD 8

Baghi Babur

PD 7 Kabul_City_POI

o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

Abc Area names Afghan Kabul river Tarkanay secondary; Roads; primary

Shuhadayi Kabul Historical Wall Saliheen 0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 1 SHAHR-E KOHNA (CHINDAWAL, ASHEQAN WA AREFAN, BAGH-E QAZI, MANDAWI, SANG TARASHI, SHUR BAZAAR, HINDU GOZAR, KHARA- BAT, BAGH ALI MARDAN)

This PD largely coincides with the old walled city of Kabul, which developed around the citadel of Bala Hisar, for centuries the main seat of power for the rulers of the city (read about its history here). Besides the citadel and the ancient wall that climbs up the Sher Darwaza mountain (read about it here), this PD features many of the city’s foremost historic landmarks and holy sites: Pul-e Kheshti Mosque, Eid Gah Mosque, Shah-e Do Shamshira Mosque and the Mausoleum of Timur Shah, plus the Pamir Cinema, one of Kabul’s oldest and tallest. This part of the city is a commercial and residential area made of typical narrow lanes and traditional mud hous- es, cut by only a few major asphalted roads built throughout the twentieth century to improve access. Many neighbourhoods in this area were heavily damaged during the civil war in the 1990s (especially in its eastern part). The area managed largely to survive developers after 2001 and instead witnessed extensive conservation of historical buildings and an upgrading of infrastructure. Some areas are still not refurbished, however. Most of the old Kabuli families who traditionally inhabited the area left before and during the 1980s and 1990s, especially if well to do. There are still some traditional communities attached to particular neighbourhoods (Hin- dus and Sikhs in Hindu Gozar, musicians in Kharabat, Qizilbash Shias in Chindawal). However, they nowadays live with many migrants of mixed origins and aspirations for middle-to long-term settlement there (many had arrived in the 1990s). Newly arrived migrants from Panjshir and Hazarajat have settled on the higher slopes of Koh-e Sher Darwaza in informal settlements. Mandawi area (aka Chowk) still represents a main urban bazaar, although by now it is located in the midst of poor residential areas. Problems include widespread theft and illicit trade; the level of police presence is good but focused on the protection of high-profile government sites and is not effective in preventing common crime. RETURN TO MAIN MAP

January 2019 6 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 2

Tahiya-i-Maskan Bibi Mahru PD 17 Hisa-i-Dumumi Parwan Kulola Pushta ´

Wazir Ministry of PD 4 Qala-i-Fathullah Ministry Border And Baraki of Haj Akbar Kandaki Tribal Affairs Shahrara (pilgrimage) Khan Ministry of Hajj and Baghi Bala Tajamau Supreme Court Religious Affairs PD 10 Administration Ministry of Ministry of Urban Shahrara Youth Affairs Public Health Development (MoUD) Baghi Wazir Karta-i-Parwan Shahri Naw Akbar Khan Baghi Zanana Ministry of Karta-i-Wali Kabul City National Planning Women's Radio PD 5 Parki Affairs Press Shahri Naw Television Ministry of Transport & Microraryani Duwum Ministry of Economy Civil Aviation Training Centre Karta-i-Mamurin State Film National Studio PD 9 Directorate of Security (NDS) Central Ministry of Statistics Baharistan Passport The Interior Prime Office Minister's Vice Office (CSO) Maslakh Office Presedent Shash Darak Karta-i-Aryana Office Ministry of Islahate Foreign Affairs Ministry of Edari National PD 2 Planning Civil Service Management Archives Department (CSMD) Governer's Office Ministry of Ministry Wilayat Economy Afghan Geodesy And of Defense MOEW Internal Qoli Abchakan Ministry of Cartography Head Education Audit Dept Ministry of Parki Office (AGCHO) Agriculture Municipal Building Zarnigar Fire PD 16 Dih Afghanan Department Supreme Court Aliabad Ministry of Ministry Karta-i-Sakhi Information of Finance Ghazi Stadium & Culture Ministry of Justice Joyi Sheer Andarabi Murad Khani Tapa-i-Salam Ministry of Baghi Ali Afghan Tourist Communications Jamal Mena Organization Ministry of Mardan Kabul Public Health Dih Nawi Akhiri Jada University PD 3 Mandawi Dihburi PD 1 Saraki Sangi Kabul Traffic Chamani Ministry Nawabadi Department Sarraji of Higher Huzuri Dihburi Education Dihmazang Kah Furoshi Dept of Parki PD 8 Traffic Chindawul Babayi Khudi Infrastructure Ahangari Department Nawroz Shor Bazar Sang Tarashi Kulali Puli Artall Darwaza-i-Lahuri Vocational Kabul_City_POI Department Baghi Dihmazang Ashiqan Wahsh Baghi Qazi wa Arifan oHinHdaum Gidu Kzaarzrai Intl Airport Karta-i-Char (Zoo) Khwaja Safa Abc Area names US Army Corps of Kabul river Engineers Afghanistan Puli Sokhta Engineer District (AED) Nawabadi Guzarga PD 7 secondary; Roads; primary Kabul Historical Wall

PD 6 0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 2 ARG-E SHAHI, DEH AFGHANAN, MURAD KHANI AND PART OF KART- E PARWAN (BAHARISTAN)

This PD consists of two separate areas: part of Shahr-e Naw, the new city of Kabul developed in the early twen- tieth century and some older settlements that were originally villages outside the walled city (Deh Afghanan) or residential and administrative quarters developed at the end of the nineteenth century, when the royal palace was moved from Bala Hisar to the current Arg (Murad Khani). The area is very diverse: It includes the main seats of political power (Presidential Palace, major ministries and embassies), popular commercial areas near the riverbanks, sought-after residential and shopping areas (espe- cially Baharistan) and historic neighbourhoods, some refurbished (Murad Khani) and some not (Deh Afghanan). Some old Kabuli families still dwell in Baharistan, together with mostly Tajiks from Panjshir and the Shomali pla- teau. The ethnic balance is tilted towards the Pashtuns in Deh Afghanan, while the Shia Qizilbash community still lives in Murad Khani. All these are old-settlement groups that come very close to the original definition of Kabulis. Some more recent migrants of rural origin dwell in the higher areas of Deh Afghanan. The area represents both the centre of the city and the political life of the country. Major seats of power con- stitute a primary target for political violence and consequently display a very heavy security set-up. Common criminality has long had hot spots on the northeastern slopes of Koh-e Asmai (TV Mountain) and Aliabad Hill. Otherwise, the residential areas are relatively safe.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 7

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 3

Shahrara Administration Afshar Youth Affairs PD 10 Karta-i-Parwan Shahri Naw Baghi Zanana Kabul City Planning Min´istry of Women's PD 4 Parki Affairs Shahri Naw

Ministry of Economy Karta-i-Mamurin Training Centre

PD 5 National Directorate of Security (NDS) Ministry of Baharistan Passport The Interior Office Khushhal Islahate Karta-i-Aryana Vice Presedent Khan Mena Office Edari Ministry of Planning National Archives Civil Service Management PD 2 Department (CSMD) Governer's Ministry of Qoli Abchakan Wilayat Office Economy MOEW Internal Ministry of Audit Dept Ministry of Education Municipal Agriculture Building Parki Zarnigar Dih Afghanan Aliabad Ministry of Karta-i-Sakhi Information & Culture Joyi Sheer Andarabi Tapa-i-Salam Afghan Tourist Organization Jamal Mena Ministry of Kota-i-Sangi Public Health Dih Nawi PD 3 Dihburi Kabul Saraki Sangi University Kabul Traffic Ministry Nawabadi Department of Higher Dihmazang Qala-i-Wahid Dihburi Education Dept of Parki Traffic Chindawul Infrastructure Department Nawroz Kulali Puli Artall PD 13 Vocational Baghi Wahsh Dihmazang Department (Zoo)

Unchi Karta-i-Char Khwaja Safa Baghbanan US Army Corps of PD 1 Engineers Afghanistan Puli Sokhta Engineer District (AED) Nawabadi Guzarga Kabul_City_POI PD 6 o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

Abc Area names Afgan Independent Human Rights Guzargah PD 7 Kabul river Puli Surkh Commission Baghi Babur secondary; Roads; primary Bangsidar Kabul Historical Wall 0 1 2 km PD 8 Gul Khana Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 3 DEH MAZANG, KART-E SAKHI, KART-E CHAHAR, DEH BURI

This PD, together with PD 6, constitutes the core area of West Kabul as developed, in particular from the 1940s onwards, by the government. It includes the campus of Kabul University and other landmarks such as the Ali- abad Hospital, the Kabul Zoo and the Sakhi shrine. Along the southwestern slopes of TV Mountain and Aliabad Hill crawl the settlements of Deh Mazang and Kart-e Sakhi. A large part of PD 3 consists of a flat-lying area with a regular street grid (Kart-e Chahar and Deh Buri) that – coupled with the many educational facilities, green areas and comparatively low prices – makes it a sought- after residential location for middle-class Afghans and (until recently) foreigners. Hill-settlements are less serviced. Both areas were flattened during the 1990s war but have largely been rebuilt. Kart-e Chahar and Deh Buri have for a long time now been inhabited mostly by Hazaras, while hill settlements like Deh Mazang and Kart-e Sakhi are more mixed, although the latter is also inhabited mostly by Shi’as and features a major Shi’a shrine (repeatedly targeted by radical militants). Among the residents of Deh Mazang in particular many old Kabulis were to be found until recently, although generally from low-income households (it seems many left the country in the last few years). In recent years migrants from Wardak and Logar have joined the neighbourhood as well. Criminal gangs are present on the higher reaches of TV hill and Aliabad hill; otherwise, this has for long been one of Kabul’s quietest and safest areas, despite the presence of some foreign organisations and guesthouses, which started to attract the attention of militant groups after 2010.

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January 2019 8 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 4

Qala-i-Najar Ha Khwaja Bughra PD 15 ´ PD 11 Sarayi Shamali

Veterinary Qala-i-Tahir Department

Bilak Hayi Sarandoy Wazirabad Chahar Qala-i-Wazirabad PD 17 Chamani Babrak

Hisa-i-Duwumi Taymani

Badam Bagh Hisa-i-Awali Taymani Qala-i-Musa PD 4 Qala-i-Khayat Taymani PD 10 Hisa-i-Sumumi Parwan

Tahiya-i-Maskan Hisa-i-Dumumi Bibi Mahru Parwan Kulola Pushta

Qala-i-Fathullah Wazir Baraki Ministry of Haj Kandaki (pilgrimage) Akbar Khan Baghi Bala Shahrara Tajamau Supreme Ministry of Hajj Court Administration and Religious Ministry of Shahrara Youth Affairs Afshar Affairs Baghi Wazir Public Health Karta-i-Parwan Shahri Naw Kabul City Akbar Khan Baghi Zanana Planning Ministry of Karta-i-Wali Women's Radio Parki Affairs Television Ministry of Ministry Shahri Naw Transport & of Economy Civil Aviation PD 5 Training Centre Karta-i-Mamurin State Film Studio PD 9 Kabul_City_POI National Directorate Central Ministry of of Security (NDS) Baharistan Passport Statistics The Interior o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Khushhal Office Office (CSO) PD 2 Vice Presedent Ministry of Khan Mena Office Foreign Abc Area naSmheassh Darak Karta-i-Aryana Islahate Affairs PD 3 National Ministry of Edari Kabul river Planning Archives Civil Service Management Governer's Department (CSMD) secondary; Roads; primary Office Ministry Qoli Abchakan Ministry of Defense of Economy Kabul Historical Wall MOEW Internal Wilayat Ministry of Audit Dept 0 1 Ministry of 2 km Education Municipal Ministry of Parks Agriculture Building Mines And Power PD 16 The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 4 SHAHR-E NAW, KART-E PARWAN, KOLOLA POSHTA, SHAHRARA, TAHIYA-YE MASKAN

This PD comprises the main portion of the new city (Shahr-e Naw) developed for administrative and residen- tial purposes since the 1930s, other residential areas developed from the 1950s onwards (Kart-e Parwan) and historical hamlets once situated at the edge of Kabul (Shahrara). It also includes some conspicuous landmarks like the Shahr-e Naw Park and the Kolola Poshta hilltop fort. This area was relatively preserved during the 1990s war, and it has always been a central shopping area with many modern commercial malls and upmarket residential areas much sought-after for its central location. It features some high-profile VIP mansions (especially in Kart-e Parwan), many government facilities and local and foreign organisations’ offices. Shahrara (a hamlet of oven-makers built in traditional mud-houses) and the less central Parwan-e Dowom, Parwan-e Sewom and Tahiya-ye Maskan host less well-off residents.

The Kabuli middle class traditionally inhabited its central areas, although many now rent their property to foreign or Afghan organizations or have been forced out (market eviction). The area is very mixed in terms of ethnic background, with the partial exception of Kart-e Parwan, which is Tajik-dominated. Shahrara is a known venue for drug dealers. Security forces are heavily present in the whole area as it is a ma- jor target for political violence.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 9

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 5

Sarayi Shamali PD 11 Veterinary Department ´ Bilak Hayi Sarandoy PD 17 Chamani Babrak Hisa-i-Duwumi Taymani Badam Bagh

Hisa-i-Sumumi Parwan Tahiya-i-Maskan Hisa-i-Dumumi PD 14 Parwan PD 4

Baghi Bala Afshar Karta-i-Parwan

Hazar Buz Ha PD 5 Karta-i-Mamurin PD 2 Nawabadi Baharistan Fazil beg Khushhal Khan Mena

Niyaz beg Qala-i-Wazir MOEW Internal Audit Dept Ministry of Agriculture Sebangi Fazil Beg Aliabad Karta-i-Sakhi PD 3

Kota-i-Sangi Kabul Jamal Mena Dih Nawi University Dihburi Ministry of Higher Qala-i-Wahid Dihburi Dept of Education Infrastructure Vocational Kabul_City_POI Department Unchi o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Baghbanan Karta-i-Char PD 13 Puli Sokhta Abc Area namUeSs Army Corps of Engineers Afghanistan KabuEl nrgivineerer District (AED)

PD 6 secondAafgrayn; RInodaedpesn; dpernimt ary Puli Surkh Human Rights Kabul CHoismtomriiscsaiol nWall Dashti Barchi 0 1 2 km BangsPidaarkrs Gul Khana PD 7 The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 5 KHUSHHAL KHAN MENA, KAMPANI, KART-E MAMURIN, AFSHAR, KOT-E SANGI

This nahia of West Kabul comprises old (Khushhal Khan Mena) and more recent (Kampani) westward expan- sions on the road to Maidan Wardak and Paghman, plus some hillside settlements (Afshar, Kart-e Mamurin – the ‘officials’ quartier’). There are some landmarks such as the Polytechnic Institute and the Police Academy. These are relatively low-profile residential areas, while the main commercial and transportation hub is Kot-e Sangi. Fair grounds for the cattle market can be found in Kampani (Company). Afshar was the site of a massa- cre of its Hazara residents in 1993, the worst instance of ethnic violence during the civil war of the 1990s. The area is a major transit point as it is crossed by road networks connecting West and Central Kabul (Bagh-e Bala) and Kampani Road to Darulaman (Silo), besides being the starting point of the highway to Maidan Wardak province. Silo Road used to feature a trolley bus line that was destroyed during the 1990s wars. Road infra- structure was recently improved by the broadening of Kampani Road and the construction of the Kot-e Sangi viaduct. Hillside settlements are less serviced; Kart-e Mamurin fares better than Afshar. Flat areas are inhabited mostly by Pashtuns (Khushhal Khan Mena, Kampani), many from Wardak and Ghazni, but also increasingly from the south (Kandahar, Helmand, Uruzgan); hillside settlements are inhabited markedly by Hazaras and Tajiks (Afshar, Kart-e Mamurin); the Kot-e Sangi area is mixed. The area hosts one of the big- gest IDP camps in Kabul, in Chaharrahi-ye Qambar, between Khushhal Khan Mena and Company; it is inhabited mostly by displaced people from the south, many still living in tents and relying on humanitarian assistance. The area displays trends of political violence, with insurgents from neighbouring Maidan Wardak bringing pressure on fellow Pashtuns from their areas who are working for the government or NGOs or are simply eco- nomically well off. Kot-e Sangi area has experienced common criminality mixed up with insurgents’ infiltration networks into the capital and has often been targeted by police operations.

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January 2019 10 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 6

Niyaz beg Governer's Office Fire Qala-i-Wazir MOEW Internal PD 3 PD 9 Ministry PD 16 PD 14 Fazil Beg Audit Dept PD 2 Department Ministry Dih Afghanan Supreme Court of Defense of Martys Tapa-i-Salam And The Disabled Sebangi Dih Nawi Aliabad Ministry of Ministry PD 5 Kota-i-Sangi of Finance Ghazi Stadium Dihburi Jamal Mena Information Shor Baghi Ali Dept of Saraki Sangi & Culture Chamani ´ Qala-i-Wahid Kabul Traffic Dihburi Infrastructure Traffic Department Bazar Mardan Ministry of Department Huzuri Unchi Vocational US Army Corps of Ahangari Darwaza-i-Lahuri Department Higher Education Puli Baghi Qazi Baghbanan Engineers Afghanistan PD 1 Hindu Guzar Siyah Sang Afgan Engineer District (AED) Artall Khwaja Safa Puli Sokhta Independent Human Rights Commission Nawabadi Guzarga Dashti Barchi Koli Qalacha Bangsidar Puli Surkh Baghi Babur Shuhadayi Doghabad Gul Khana National Hashmat Karta-i-Se Parliament Afghan Ministry of Refugee Saliheen Qala-i-Shada Allawuddin Ministry Repatriation Khan of Commerce & Tarkanay Jangalak Industry Qala-i-Hashmat Qala-i-Khalifa Baghi Rayis Birishna Kot Qala-i-Jabbar Chahar Qala Khan Sahib Karta-i-Ghawsuddin Khan Qala-i-Wazir Wasilabad PD 8 Qala-i-Muyin Se Rahi Aqa Ali Shams Qala-i-Amir Mujtaba Allawudin Jayi Rayis Dih Murad Khan Muhammad Qala-i-Ali Qala-i-Khanadar Qala-i-Bahadur Ministry of Nawabadi PD 13 Mardan Water Power Takhnikum Khan Dih Ministry of Rural And Irrigation Puli Qala-i-Ghaybi Wilayati Qala-i-Bakhtyar Rehabilitation Dana & Development Dih Hasan Geologic And Qala-i-Bagalak Niyazi Afshari Qalandar Khan Chihilsutun Cartographic Dih Dana Darulaman Department Qala-i-Najar Ha Qala-i-Hasan Darullaman Khani Ulya Farmi Nu burja Qala-i-Mir Farmi Ziraat Pilawari Doghabad Ahamd PD 6 PD 7 Sar Asyab Qala-i-Haji Karim Chahar Qolba Qala-i-Muslim

Qala-i-Surkh Qala-i-Logari PD 22 Rishkhuri Qala-i-Fatuh Payin Qala-i-Kuhna

Kabul_City_POI PD 20 o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

Abc Area names Kabul river

secondary; Roads; primary

Kabul Historical Wall

0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 6 KART-E SE, DARULAMAN, ALAUDDIN, QALA-YE SHAHADA, QALA-YE WAZIR, QALA-YE ALI MARDAN

This PD represents (together with PD 3) a core area of West Kabul that was built mostly from the 1950s on- wards, although the first development plans date back to the 1920s, when King Amanullah sought to partially shift the centre of gravity of the city towards West Kabul and had the Darulaman palace built. Towards the southwest of the nahia some former farmland has been turned into informal settlements. Other landmarks are the Kabul National Museum, Tajbeg Palace and the mosque Khatam al-Nabiyin, a newly built major Shi’a religious and educational complex. Mostly a residential area, it has a regular road grid (especially Kart-e Se) and is sought after by the middle class and (until recently) foreigners. It was extensively damaged during the war (especially the buildings along Da- rulaman Road) but has been rebuilt since.

This part of the city is traditionally inhabited by Hazaras (especially Kart-e Se), but is more mixed around Da- rulaman and in other areas. Also, some IDPs from the Hazara-inhabited districts of Ghazni or Wardak moved into informal settlements at the southwestern edge of the ward, bordering PD 13. Heroin addicts around Pul-e Sukhta are causing an increase in micro-criminality, and security concerns exist around high-profile installations like the Military Academy and the American University, also found in this PD.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 11

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 7

Fazil Beg Sebangi Aliabad Ministry of Municipal Building Supreme Court PD 9 PD 16 Agriculture PD 2 Joyi Sheer Ministry of Ahmad Shah Kabul Ministry of Ghazi Stadium PD 5 Kota-i-Sangi Dih Nawi Tapa-i-Salam Afghan Tourist Finance Sayid Noor University Information Baba Mena Dihburi Ministry Organization & Culture Baghi Ali Chamani Muhammad of Higher Jamal Mena Shor Nawabadi Karta-i-Naw Qala-i-Wahid Dihburi Education Traffic Mardan Huzuri ´ Saraki Chindawul Shah Mena Department Puli Artall Bazar Family Hayi Unchi Vocational Sangi Kulali Dihmazang Ahangari Darwaza-i-Lahuri Department Dept of Baghi Qazi Siyah Sang Nasaji Bagrami Infrastructure Hindu Guzar Shah Shahid Baghbanan Baghi Wahsh Khwaja Safa Puli Sokhta Karta-i-Char Ashiqan Rahman Mena PD 3 (Zoo) wa Arifan Afgan Independent Ayub Nawabadi Guzarga Fabrika-i-Nasaji Puli Surkh Human Rights PD 1 wa Bagrami Dashti Barchi Commission Khan Guzargah Qalacha Gul Khana Bangsidar Koli PD 13 NationalMena Shuhadayi Dasto Khel Karta-i-Se Parliament Ministry Hashmat Allawuddin Saliheen Doghabad Qala-i-Shada Ministry of Jangalak of Refugee Commerce & Industry Repatriation Khan Du Sad Family Qala-i-Afghan Ha Birishna Kot Qala-i-Hashmat Rahman Mena Qala-i-Khalifa Baghi Rayis Khan Qala-i-Jabbar Chahar Qala Wasilabad Qala-i-Wazir Sahib Se Rahi Qala-i-Amir Khan Qala-i-Muyin Aqa Ali Shams Allawudin Muhammad PD 8 Mujtaba Qala-i-Ali Bini Hisar Mardan Dih Murad Jayi Rayis Khan Qala-i-Bahadur Qala-i-Khanadar Khan Ministry of PD 7 Takhnikum Water Power Nawabadi Gul Buta And Irrigation Dih Qala-i-Ghaybi Wilayati Qala-i-Bakhtyar Ministry of Rural Geologic And Rehabilitation Dana Puli Hasan Cartographic & Development Khan Department Dih Qalandar Qala-i-Bagalak Niyazi Chihilsutun Qala-i-Hasan Afshari Farmi Dih Dana Qala-i-Hasan Baghi Chihilsutun Khani Sufla Darulaman Pilawari Qala-i-Najar Ha Khani Ulya Darullaman Nu burja Qala-i-Mir Farmi Ziraat Qala-i-Muhammad Doghabad Ahamd Ibrahim Qala-i-Haji Shewaki Karim Qala-i-Taj Sar Asyab Gul Chahar Qolba PD 6 Qala-i-Muslim PD 22

Qala-i-Surkh Qala-i-Logari Qala-i-Fatuh Rishkhuri Payin Kabul_City_POI Qala-i-Kuhna PD 20 o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Abc Area names Kabul river

secondary; Roads; primary

Kabul Historical Wall

0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 7 CHEHEL SOTUN, GOZARGAH, AYYUB KHAN MENA, WASILABAD, DEH DANA, RISHKHOR

The northernmost areas of this PD are the natural expansion of the city along Darulaman Road while towards the south of the district the city has by now absorbed many previously existing rural villages. The area features conspicuous historical landmarks such as Bagh-e Babur (read more here and here), Chehel Sotun Palace built in the 1920s as a royal guesthouse and the ruined residence of the exiled last Amir of Bukhara in Qalah-ye Fatuh (read more here and here). Rishkhor’s pre-war military training facility became an al-Qaida training camp in the late 1990s and later US and Afghan army facilities. The area also hosts the New Parliament building. The more central areas along Darulaman Road are commercially relevant, while going southward and away from the road the residential areas are poorer, as the area offered shelter to many economic migrants from ru- ral areas and returnees after 2001. Some Kabulis may have opted for it too because of cheap prices. In the past the area hosted some of the few industrial complexes created by the government – Jangalak and Takhnikum (technical college) – but these were destroyed and looted in the 1990s. Services and roads are not satisfactory. The area is very much mixed, hosting mainly Hazaras and Pashtuns but with some residual rural Tajiks in the villages and groups from other communities who have recently migrated from a wide range of the country’s provinces. Jangalak had also until recently, hosted the shelter for returnee migrants run by Minister of Refugees and Repatriation and the International Organization for Migration. The central areas are sometimes targeted by political violence or are the site for demonstrations, while the ham- lets located at the edge of town are relatively unsafe in terms of common criminality and insurgents’ infiltration.

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January 2019 12 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 8

Karta-i-Aryana Ministry of PD 4 Ministry of PD 10 Central Statistics Maslakh The Interior Foreign Affairs Islahate Edari Office (CSO) Ministry of Ministry of Qarya-i-Dih Part Khail National Governer's Ministry PD 9 Martys And Ministry Labor & Social Archives Office of Planning PD 2 The Disabled khuday Dad Qoli Abchakan Ministry of of Defense Affairs (MoLSA) Wilayat Afghan Geodesy And Economy Fire ´ Cartography Head Ministry of Department Education Office (AGCHO) Dih Afghanan Supreme Court Ghazi Stadium Ministry of Joyi Sheer Ministry of Finance Baghi Ali Ahmad Shah Information PD 3 Afghan Tourist Ministry of Nawabadi Dashti Shina Saraki & Culture Mardan Sayid Noor Baba Mena Organization Communications Akhiri Jada Karta-i-Naw Wa Bagrami Sangi Nawabadi Kabul Traffic Mandawi Muhammad PD 16 Department Sarraji Chamani Huzuri Traffic Dihmazang Shah Mena Family Hayi Department Parki Nawroz Shor Bazar Ahangari Darwaza-i-Lahuri Nasaji PD 12 Kulali Puli Artall Baghi Qazi Sang Hindu Guzar Shah Shahid Siyah Sang Bagrami Baghi Dihmazang Ashiqan Rahman Mena Khwaja Safa Tarashi Fabrika-i-Nasaji Wahsh Nawabadi wa Arifan wa Bagrami (Zoo) Guzarga Chamani PD 6 Bagrami Baghi Babur PD 1 Guzargah Qalacha Dasto Khel Ayub Afghan Shuhadayi Koli Khan Tarkanay Ministry Mena of Refugee Saliheen Hashmat Jangalak Repatriation Khan Qala-i-Sher Bagrami Du Sad Family Qala-i-Afghan Ha Birishna Kot Alam Rahman Mena Baghi Rayis Qala-i-Hashmat Karta-i-Ghawsuddin Wasilabad Khan Qala-i-Amir Chamani Aqa Ali Shams Kamari Wa Dih Murad Muhammad PD 8 Bini Hisar Bagrami Khan

Qala-i-Khanadar

Takhnikum Gul Buta Qala-i-Ghaybi Wilayati Kamari PD 7

Qala-i-Bagalak Niyazi Chihilsutun Qala-i-Hasan Baghi Qala-i-Hasan Khani Sufla Qala-i-Adam Damana Chihilsutun Khani Ulya Khan Nu burja Qala-i-Mir Qala-i-Muhammad Kabul_City_POI Ahamd Ibrahim PD 22 Qala-i-Haji Shewaki Temur Khan o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Karim Qala-i-Taj Baghi Haji Abc Area names Afghan Gul Kabul river secondary; Roads; primary PD 20 Dashti Kamari Kabul Historical Wall 0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 8 KART-E NAW, RAHMAN MENA, SHAH-E SHAHID, QALACHA, BENI HESAR

These neighbourhoods are residential expansions dating from different eras (Kart-e Naw from the 1950s, a time when the Shah-e Shahid area was already dotted with suburban hamlets) and of different types, expanding from the old city to the south (along the road to Logar) and east. The main landmarks are the Mausoleum of Nadir Khan on a hill popular with kite-fliers, the cemetery of Shohada-ye Salehin and Hashmat Khan’s reservoir (now partially dried up) (see AAN reporting on the water fowl and Afghan ornithologists here and here). Kart-e Naw and Rahman Mena are relatively standardised residential areas inhabited by middle-class residents. Adjacent areas change gradually in terms of layout and economy, becoming poorer and more informal towards Qalacha and Bini Hesar. The quality of the water supply is inadequate in the latter areas. Despite that, Kabul is further expanding along the Logar highway to the south.

The area has been consistently inhabited by a majority of Pashtuns and in recent years the trend has only been reinforced by the influx of many residents mainly from Logar, Paktia and Khost. The area lies on one of the insurgents’ infiltration routes to the capital and the security forces’ presence is commensurate. Moreover, some mosques in Qalacha and Bini Hesar are noted for having displayed a politi- cal stance in favour of the insurgency in the past and therefore are kept under control. Common criminals are often targeting even central areas like Kart-e Naw with house raids and robberies, despite the police’s attempts at securing the area.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 13

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 9

Qala-i-Dawlat Qasaba Tara Khel ´ Fabrika-i-Khana Dashti Sazi Wazirabad PD 18 PD 15 PD 19

o Family Hayi Qala-i-Tahir Pulicharkhi

Chahar Qarya-i-Malik Qala-i-Wazirabad Ismayil

Khwaja Rawash Qala-i-Wakil PD 9 PD 10 Nawabadi Qala-i-Ali Puli Charkhi Qala-i-Khayat Qabulbay Mardan Pashmina Bafi Gumruk Microrayani Qala-i-Haji Customs House Bibi Mahru Chaharum Yakatoot Wazir Qabilbay Ministry of Hood Khel Microrayani Akbar Kandaki Border And Ministry of Hajj Tribal Affairs Dawood Khel and Religious Khan Tajamau Suwum Affairs Supreme Court Ministry Ministry of Urban of Public Health Development (MoUD) Ministry of Qala-i-Shora Women's Karta-i-Wali National Ministry of Affairs Radio Ministry of Transport Press Counternarcotics & Civil Aviation PD Television Microraryani Simint Khana Shina State Film National Directorate Duwum Ministry of 4 Studio Public Works Qala-i-Zaman of Security (NDS) Central Afghanistan Ministry of Statistics Maslakh Geological Khan Ministry of Foreign Office (CSO) Survey Microrayani Awal PD 16 Planning Affairs Shash Darak Ministry of Qarya-i-Dih Part Khail Governer's Argi Jumhuri Ministry of Labor & Social Office Ministry khuday Dad Martys And Affairs (MoLSA) of Economy Ministry of PD 2 Defense The Disabled PD 12 Kabul_City_POI Fire Supreme Court Municipal Department Building Ghazi Stadium o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Ministry of Ministry of Finance Ahmad Shah Information Baghi Ali Nawabadi Abc Area names & Culture PD 1 Baba Mena Dashti Shina Afghan Mardan Chamani Huzuri Sayid Noor Karta-i-Naw Tourist Mandawi Wa Bagrami Kabul river Organization Akhiri Jada Muhammad Kah Furoshi PD 8 secondary; Roads; primary Sarraji Shah Mena Family Hayi Shor Bazar Ahangari Darwaza-i-Lahuri Kabul Historical Wall Khwaja Nasaji Ashiqan Sang Hindu Guzar 0 1 2 km Shah Shahid Siyah Sang Bagrami Parks Safa wa Arifan Tarashi The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 9 SHASHDARAK; MICRORAYONS TWO, THREE AND FOUR; YAKA TUT; KHWAJA RAWASH HUDKHEL; PUL-E CHARKHI

This is a very diverse PD, which features parts of what is sometimes termed the Kabul Green Zone (the high- profile diplomatic and institutional enclave in Shashdarak that is almost secluded from the rest of the city),- sev eral Soviet-style blocks (Microrayons, often locally pronounced “Makruyon”) built from the 1960s onwards and newer and sprawling commercial and residential areas along Jalalabad Road that absorbed some pre-existing rural hamlets. Pul-e Charkhi also features some of the biggest industrial parks of Kabul. The Microrayons’ flats, suitable for small families, were inhabited until recently by people originally from Kabul; now a majority of the residents are newcomers, but they are arguably people who adapt to an environment that is much more ‘urban’ than the suburban settlements and who often reproduce the living conditions of a rural village. Accommodation in the Microrayons is relatively cheap and sought after. In addition, they offer some basic comforts, like centralised heating systems. In contrast, the areas along Jalalabad Road, though mixed in the first tract, increasingly feature large households of immigrants from the east, mainly Pashtun Kuchis and including IDPs. The Khwaja Rawash area is mixed, with Tajiks and Pashtuns, and has been the focus of a public-private high-profile housing initiative between 2013 and 2016 that made it more attractive to the middle class. The areas along Jalalabad Road, the main gateway to Kabul and therefore a main transit and commercial route, witness a lot of common criminality and occasional targeting by insurgents of government and foreign assets.

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January 2019 14 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 10

Qala-i-Najar Ha

PD 11 ´ Khwaja Bughra PD 15 o

Qala-i-Tahir

Wazirabad Chahar Qala-i-Wazirabad Qarya-i-Malik Chamani Ismayil Babrak

Hisa-i-Duwumi PD 10 Taymani Qala-i-Wakil

Hisa-i-Awali Taymani Qala-i-Musa Qala-i-Khayat Taymani Hisa-i-Sumumi PD 4 Parwan Qala-i-Haji Microrayani Hisa-i-Dumumi Bibi Mahru Chaharum Parwan Kulola Pushta Yakatoot PD 9 Ministry of Microrayani Baraki Qala-i-Fathullah Wazir Border And Ministry of Haj Kandaki Tribal Affairs Suwum (pilgrimage) Akbar Khan Shahrara Tajamau Ministry of Hajj Supreme Court Administration Ministry of Urban and Religious Ministry of Shahrara Youth Affairs Development (MoUD) Affairs Public Health Baghi Wazir Ministry of Karta-i-Parwan Counternarcotics Shahri Naw Kabul City Akbar Khan Qala-i-Shora Baghi Zanana Planning Ministry of Karta-i-Wali Women's Radio National Parki Affairs Microraryani Press Television Ministry of Ministry Shahri Naw Transport & Duwum of Economy Civil Aviation Training Centre Afghanistan Ministry of State Film Public Works Simint KhaKnaabul_City_POI Studio Geological National Survey Qala-i-Zaman Directorate of Central o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Ministry of Khan Security (NDS) Statistics Baharistan Passport The Interior Microrayani Office Office (CSO) Maslakh PD 16Abc Area names PD 2 Islahate Awal Karta-i-Aryana Vice Presedent Edari Ministry of Office Ministry Foreign Shash Darak Kabul river of Planning Affairs Ministry of Labor & Social National Civil Service secondary; Roads; primary Ministry of Affairs (MoLSA) Archives Management Argi Jumhuri Martys And Kabul Historical Wall PD 3 Department (CSMD) Ministry The Disabled 0 Qoli Abchakan 1 Ministry of 2 km of Defense Governer's Economy Parks Wilayat Office The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 10 WAZIR AKBAR KHAN, TAIMANI, QALA-YE FATHULLAH, QALA-YE MUSA, WAZIRABAD, SHAHRAK-E ARYA

Half of this PD is made up of residential areas built according to master plans at different times from the 1940s onwards (Wazir Akbar Khan, Taimani, Qala-ye Fathullah). These areas are nowadays considered an extension of Shahr-e Naw and are at the core of Kabul city centre. The rest of the area (Wazirabad, Qala-ye Musa) included in the past agricultural lands and traditional settlements, but it has witnessed massive infilling in the past- de cades and is now totally built up. The area called Sherpur at the foot of Bibi Mahru hill was the site of a major forced eviction of residents in 2003, with the land redistributed by the Ministry of Defence to cabinet members in the newly established government, commanders and other clients (read about it here). There are also newly- built modern housing projects (Shahrak-e Arya) along the Airport Road. Already ‘uptown’ before the war, since 2001, Wazir Akbar Khan has become an enclave of embassies and the offices of government branches, NGOs and private companies. There are several VIP houses (especially in Sher- pur). Taimani and Qala-ye Fathullah are residential areas much sought-after by foreigners and middle-class residents for their central location, high-quality accommodation and lower security profile than Wazir Akbar Khan. During the last decade, many of the twentieth-century garden houses have been pulled down to make room for high-rise buildings. Water, electricity and other services are usually good, although not all side alleys are paved. Wazirabad remains much less serviced and low-key. Distinctive-looking Shahrak-e Arya has been developed in the last decade as a model modern housing project; it hosts well-to-do people in a gated environ- ment. Some residents of Wazir Akbar Khan area were forcefully removed in 2003 (Sherpur); others left for economic reasons (market eviction). The area is now mainly the preserve of the elite and of foreigners. Taimani and Qala- ye Fathullah until recently closely conformed to the original pre-war Kabuli neighbourhoods, with a very mixed population (although with a strong presence of Hazaras). The influx of foreign guesthouses and offices has

AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 15 significantly altered that, at least in the most central areas. Wazirabad used to be sparsely populated until new settlers came in from various parts and the areas became mixed. Wazir Akbar Khan presents high-profile targets for political violence and therefore has high security (although the area is not completely walled in – see analysis of efforts in 2017 to secure the ‘Green Zone’here ); Taimani and Qala-ye Fathullah have for a while benefited from a lower-profile presence of foreigners, but in recent years criminals have started to target the area due to its rich economic performance, and foreigners and Afghans alike have been kidnapped. Wazirabad features higher insecurity because of common criminality, especially at night-time, with instances of robberies and house raids.

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January 2019 16 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 11 ´

Hazara-i-Baghal Panjsad PD 15 Purozha-i-Sesadupanzda Purozha-i-Jadid Famili PD 17 PD 11 Qala-i-Dawlat

Khwaja Bughra

Khishti Hisa-i-Awali Hokhtif Khayr khana

Hisa-i-Duwumi Hisa-i-Suwumi Kotali Khayr Khana Khayr Khana Khayr Golayi Khana Hisa-i-Awal Qala-i-Najar Ha

Khwaja Bughra Kabul_City_POI

Sarayi o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Shamali Abc Area names Veterinary Department Kabul river PD 10 PD 4 secondary; Roads; primary Bilak Hayi Kabul Historical Wall Sarandoy Wazirabad 0 1 2 km Parks PD 5 The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 11 KHAIRKHANA ONE (HISA-YE AWAL)

Khairkhana is a residential area north of the city on the road leading to the namesake pass that separates Kabul from the Shomali Plateau. It was mostly built during the 1960s according to the master plan, but with some unplanned additions, like the vast commercial area called Bazar-e Lycee Maryam. Khairkhana has regular blocks and a paved road grid and is relatively well serviced, although it lacks an ade- quate water supply. It is a sought-after residential area. VIPs, especially those belonging to Jamiat-e Islami, have built their villas in this neighbourhood. Already inhabited mainly by people hailing from the districts north of Kabul because of its location, but with a substantial Pashtun element that has mostly now moved away, it has taken on an even more distinctive Shomali/Panjshiri character since 2001. However, at least some residents identify with a more ‘urbanised’ Kabuli identity, and the commercial area is very much mixed. The presence of VIPs with an anti-Taleban background and the ethnic connotation has a double-edged im- pact on security. Although Khairkhana is not a permissive environment for insurgents to operate in, organised criminality can be a serious challenge for common residents, with frequent raids and robberies (though not many kidnappings). Episodes of violence are often the product of a sort of ‘gang sub-culture’ among some local youth, who feel they have enough political cover to indulge in bullying and petty crimes.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 17

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 12 ´ PD 19 Pashmina Bafi PD 9

Dawood Khel

Shina

PD 21 Part Khail

PD 16 PD 12

Dashti Shina Wa Bagrami

Kabul_City_POI

o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

Abc Area names Bagrami Kabul river

PD 22 secondary; Roads; primary

PD 8 Kabul Historical Wall

0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 12 AHMAD SHAH BABA MENA (AKA ARZAN QEMAT)

The main built-up area of this PD represents an eastern peripheral expansion of the city planned in the 1970s but mostly completed during the last decade. It is located close to the old road once leading to Jalalabad from Kabul. The massive Pul-e Charkhi prison just to the east of Ahmad Shah Baba Mena was built in the 1970s. The neighbourhood is planned and laid out in a regular way, with relatively good infrastructure. It is especially sought-after as a residential area by middle-income immigrant households from the east of the country -be cause of its cheap prices and location. The area is inhabited chiefly by Pashtuns from the east of Afghanistan (Nangarhar, Laghman and Kunar). The area is relatively safe in terms of criminality, although somehow secluded and apart from central Kabul. Its location and the origin of many of its inhabitants from contested areas of eastern Afghanistan may allow for the presence of insurgent networks trying to infiltrate the city.

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January 2019 18 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 13

Nawabadi Baharistan PD 5 Fazil beg Khushhal PD 2 PD 14 Khan Mena MOEW Qala-i-Wazir Internal Niyaz beg Ministry of Audit Dept Agriculture ´ Fazil Beg Aliabad Karta-i-Sakhi Sebangi Tapa-i-Salam Dih Nawi Kota-i-Sangi Kabul Jamal Mena Dihburi University Saraki Sangi Ministry Qala-i-Wahid Dept of Traffic Dihburi of Higher Infrastructure Department Unchi Education Vocational US Army Corps of Baghbanan Department Engineers Afghanistan Engineer District (AED) Puli Sokhta Afgan Independent Human Rights PD 3 Puli Surkh Commission Guzargah Dashti Barchi Bangsidar Gul Khana Ayub Khan Mena Doghabad Karta-i-Se National Parliament Qala-i-Shada Allawuddin Qala-i-Afghan Ha Karta-i-Ghawsuddin Qala-i-Jabbar Chahar Qala Qala-i-Wazir Qala-i-Khalifa Khan Qala-i-Muyin Sahib Dih Murad Qala-i-Ali Se Rahi Mujtaba Khan Mardan Allawudin Qala-i-Bahadur Jayi Rayis Khan Ministry of Water Power Nawabadi PD 13 And Irrigation Dih Qala-i-Bakhtyar Ministry of Rural Geologic And Rehabilitation Dana Cartographic & Development Puli Hasan Department Dih Qalandar Khan Afshari Farmi Dih Dana Baghi Darulaman Pilawari Chihilsutun Darullaman Qala-i-Najar Ha PD 6 Nu burja Farmi Ziraat Doghabad

Sar Asyab Chahar Qolba

Qala-i-Muslim PD 7

Kabul_City_POI Qala-i-Surkh Qala-i-Logari o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Rishkhuri Qala-i-Fatuh Abc Area names Payin Kabul river

secondQaray;l aR-oi-aKdsu; hpnrimaary

Kabul Historical Wall 0 1 2 km PPDar k2s0

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 13 DASHT-E BARCHI, PUL-E KHUSHK, SHAHRAK-E HAJI NOWRUZ, SHAHRAK-E OMID-E SABZ

This flat expanse to the west of the city is an area of new settlement, carved out of PD 6 in 2003 when resi- dents started to pour in. Previously it was partly agricultural and partly barren, with only a few hamlets. The area is now densely populated; most of the settlements are informal and the municipality provides limited infrastructure. Residents are mainly newcomers from the provinces or low-income Kabulis lured here by the cheaper cost of property. However, affluent investors have developed some high-profile shahraks. The area is inhabited mostly by Hazaras who migrated to Kabul from Wardak or Ghazni after 2001. The area has been subject to the periodic influx of IDPs during the worst phases of the Kuchi-Hazara conflict in Wardak and Ghazni provinces since 2007; the IDPs who did not return to their home districts settled with relatives. A smaller number of Pashtun Kuchi nomads had started to settle in the area too, but during the Kuchi-Hazara conflict in 2010, clashes erupted between the two communities in Dasht-e Barchi and the Kuchis were later relocated to Darulaman. Residents of the shahraks are more mixed. Widespread poverty in the area results in some criminality. Shahraks are considered to have better security.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 19

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 14 ´

PARWAN PROVINCE

PD 11 Hazara-i-Baghal Purozha-i-Sesadupanzda PD 14 Hisa-i-Awali Khayr khana PD 17 Kotali MAIDAN WARDAK Khayr Khana PROVINCE Qala-i-Najar Ha

Sarayi Veterinary Shamali Department Bilak Hayi Sarandoy Badam Bagh Hisa-i-Sumumi Parwan Tahiya-i-Maskan PD 4 Baghi Bala Karta-i-Parwan PD 5 Hazar Buz Ha Afshar PD KhushKhabaull_City_POI Nawabadi Khan Mena 2 o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Fazil beg Qala-i-Wazir MOEW Internal Niyaz beg Audit Dept Fazil Beg Abc Area names Aliabad Sebangi KotKaa-biu-lS riavenrgi PD 3 Dihburi secoDnidha rNy;a Rwoiads; primary Qala-i-Wahid Dihburi PD 13 Kabul Historical WaVlol cational Unchi Department 0 1 2 km Parks Baghbanan PD 6 Bangsidar The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 14 PAGHMAN, BAGH-E DAUD, ARGHANDI, QALA-YE HAIDAR, QARGHA LAKE

This nahia was established in 2003 over much of what is the Paghman woluswali. Paghman valley to the west of Kabul was the focus of King Amanullah’s project for a summer resort for the elite of Kabul in the 1920s, when it became also the venue for national celebrations and a Loya Jirga. During the 1980s the area was severely affected by fighting between the mujahedin and the communist government. The damaged gardens and triumphal arch (Taq-e Zafar) have been refurbished and a new palace built to host a grand regional Nawruz celebration in 2014 (celebrations had to be moved to Kabul for security reasons). Most of the residential areas in PD 14 have been built since 2001. Other landmarks in this PD include the Qargha reservoir and Bagh-e Daud. Most of the new settlements are informal. Paghman and Qargha are two favourite spots for Kabul people for outings and picnics, especially in spring and summer.

The only original residents of Paghman are those living up in the valley. Newly arrived residents hail mainly from Maidan Wardak, but also Kandahar, Ghazni and Helmand. In Qala-ye Haidar a majority of the residents are Hazaras from Bamiyan, Daikundi and Ghazni. Altogether this is an ethnically mixed area with Pashtuns, Tajiks and Hazaras and other communities as well. The higher part of Paghman valley is rugged and has been sometimes used as a hiding place by insurgents or politically connected criminal networks involved in kidnappings. Also, in Arghandi, on the road leading to Maidan Wardak, there have been instances of insurgent activity.

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January 2019 20 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 15 ´

Panjsad Purozha-i-Jadid Famili

Qala-i-Dawlat PD 18 PD 11 PD 15 Khwaja Bughra Qasaba Tara Khel

Fabrika-i-Khana Hisa-i-Duwumi Sazi Hisa-i-Suwumi Dashti Khayr Khana Khayr Khana Wazirabad

Qala-i-Najar Ha

Khwaja Bughra o

Qala-i-Tahir

Bilak Hayi PD 4 Sarandoy Wazirabad Chahar Qarya-i-Malik Chamani Qala-i-Wazirabad Ismayil Kabul_City_POI Babrak PD 10 o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Hisa-i-Duwumi Khwaja Rawash Abc Area names Taymani Qala-i-Wakil Qala-i-Ali PD 9 Kabul river Hisa-i-Awali Taymani Qala-i-Musa Mardan Puli Charkhi Qala-i-Khayat secondary; Roads; primary Hisa-i-Sumumi Taymani Nawabadi Qabulbay Parwan Kabul Historical Wall Gumruk Customs House 0 1 2 km Qala-i-Haji Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 15 KHAIRKHANA TWO AND THREE, KHWAJA BUGHRA, QASABA

The residential areas making up this PD (until 2003 part of PD 10) date from the last few decades. Only Hesa-e Dowom and Hisa-e Sewom of Khairkhana have been built according to the municipality master plan. Khwaja Bughra existed already as a suburban village (endowed with the namesake shrine) surrounded by agricultural land during the time of Zahir Khan and Daud Khan. Some politically connected people started developing shah- raks already in the 1990s (Shahrak-e Massud), but the pace of construction increased after 2001. The PD area encompasses Kabul’s civilian and military airports and it hosts the recently built Ministry of Interior and several other government facilities. Khairkhana Two and Three have a regular road grid and layout. Khwaja Bughra area has been developed into shahraks without planning, and construction extended over what used to be a wetland area, contributing to drainage problems in all of northwestern Kabul. Qasaba area used to be mostly inhabited by low-income resi- dents, but some recently built shahraks (bordering on Khwaja Rawash area of PD 9) have raised its status as a residential area. The original residents of Khwaja Bughra were Shias. Nowadays, the majority of the residents in the area are from the provinces just north of Kabul – Parwan, Kapisa and Panjshir, with some also from Logar. This is the case also for Khairkhana Two and Three. Security in Khairkhana follows the patterns described for PD 11. The same can be said for Khwaja Bughra, with poverty and remoteness from main roads compounding instances of criminality. Qasaba featured the presence of notorious criminal networks in the past; the recent construction projects in the area will likely change the security environment.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 21

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 16

Khwaja Rawash Qala-i-Wakil Nawabadi Qala-i-Ali Puli Charkhi Qala-i-Khayat Qabulbay Mardan Pashmina Bafi ´ Gumruk PD 19 Microrayani Qala-i-Haji Customs House Bibi Mahru Chaharum Yakatoot Wazir PD 10 Qabilbay Ministry of PD 9 Hood Khel Microrayani Akbar Kandaki Border And Khan Tribal Affairs Suwum Dawood Khel Tajamau Supreme Court Ministry of Urban Ministry of Baghi Wazir Development (MoUD) Public Health Akbar Khan Ministry of Qala-i-Shora Karta-i-Wali National Counternarcotics Radio Ministry of Press Television Transport & Microraryani Duwum Civil Aviation State Film Afghanistan Ministry of Simint Khana Shina Geological Public Works Central Studio Survey Statistics Qala-i-Zaman Office (CSO) Microrayani Shash Darak Maslakh Khan Awal Argi Jumhuri Ministry of Part Khail Martys And Ministry of Qarya-i-Dih Labor & Social Ministry The Disabled khuday Dad PD 2 of Defense Affairs (MoLSA)

Fire Department Supreme Court Ghazi Stadium PD 16 Murad Khani Baghi Ali Ahmad Shah Ministry Nawabadi of Communications Mardan Baba Mena Dashti Shina Chamani Huzuri Sayid Noor Karta-i-Naw Akhiri Jada Wa Bagrami PD 12 Sarraji Muhammad Babayi Khudi Shah Mena Ahangari Family Hayi Ashiqan Darwaza-i-Lahuri Nasaji wa Arifan Sang Hindu Guzar Shah Shahid Siyah Sang Bagrami Baghi Qazi Tarashi Rahman Mena PD 1 Fabrika-i-Nasaji wa Bagrami Chamani Bagrami PD 8 Qalacha Dasto Khel Shuhadayi Koli Saliheen Hashmat Kabul_City_POI Khan Qala-i-Sher Bagrami Du Sad Family Alam o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Rahman Mena Abc Area names Qala-i-Hashmat Khan PD 22 Kabul river secondary; Roads; primary Qala-i-Amir Chamani Kabul Historical Wall Muhammad 0 1 2 km Kamari Wa Bini Hisar Parks PD 7 Bagrami The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 16 MICRORAYON ONE (AKA OLD MICRORAYON), QALA-YE ZAMAN KHAN, DEH KHODAIDAD, ALUKHEL, BAGRAMI, SHAHRAK-E KHORASAN, SHAHRAK-E CEMENT KHANA

This PD was carved out of the southern half of PD 9 in 2003. According to officials in PD 16, only Old Microray- on and Qala-ye Zaman Khan have been built according to the City Master Plan. Indeed, Qala-ye Zaman Khan existed as a settlement long before the city expanded in this direction, while Microrayon One was the first such project developed with Soviet aid in the 1960s. Other parts of the PD, save for the pre-existing rural villages (Alukhel and Bagrami – this PD overlaps to some extent with the woluswali named after the latter locality), have indeed been occupied and developed privately since 2001, Semet (Cement) Khana in particular. Microrayon One has long been considered relatively comfortable with cheap urban accommodation, but it does not compete with the better-quality newly built shahraks. Qala-ye Zaman Khan road has been recently paved, but the area remains relatively underdeveloped. Towards the east this nahia still includes agricultural areas, more and more encroached on by construction sites. The original inhabitants of the villages are Tajiks and Pashtuns. Newly arrived residents are mostly from Par- wan, Panjshir or Hazara-inhabited provinces or they are Pashtun Kuchis (nomads). It seems that a majority of the original inhabitants of Microrayon have eventually left for other parts of Kabul or relocated abroad. The newcomers are mixed, originating quite evenly from all parts of the country. Microrayon used to offer a sort of ‘sheltered’ environment, although population change may have disrupted its social fabric. Remoteness and the comparative poverty of other areas may harm their security.

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January 2019 22 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 17 ´

Hazara-i-Baghal Panjsad Purozha-i-Jadid Famili PD 17 Purozha-i-Sesadupanzda Qala-i-Dawlat PD 15 PD 11 Khwaja Bughra Khishti Hokhtif Kotali Hisa-i-Suwumi PD 14 Hisa-i-Awali Dashti Khayr Golayi Khayr Khana Khayr khana Wazirabad Khana Hisa-i-Awal Hisa-i-Duwumi Qala-i-Najar Ha Khayr Khana Sarayi Khwaja Bughra Shamali Veterinary Qala-i-Tahir Department Bilak Hayi Sarandoy Wazirabad Chahar Qala-i-Wazirabad Chamani Hisa-i-Duwumi Babrak Taymani Badam Bagh Hisa-i-Awali Qala-i-KMabuusl_aCityQ_aPlOaI-i-Khayat PD 4 Taymani Hisa-i-Sumumi Parwan Taymanio PD 10 Tahiya-i-Maskan Hamid KarzaiB Inibtl iA Mirpaohrtru Kulola Pushta Ministry of AMibnicstryArea names Hisa-i-Dumumi Baraki of Haj Wazir Akbar Border And PD 5 Qala-i-Fathullah Tribal Affairs Baghi Bala Parwan Shahrara (pilgrimaKgaeb)ul rKivhear n AdministrationKabul Supreme Court Afshar Shahrara Youth Affairs City Ministry of Karta-i-Parwan Womsecno'sndarMy;in Risotray dosf; primary Planning Ministry of Baghi Zanana Shahri Naw Affairs Transport & Public Hazar Buz Ha Nawabadi Ministry of Economy Kabul HCiisvitlo Arviciaatli oWn all Karta-i-Mamurin Health 0 1 2 km Fazil beg PD 2 Training Centre PD 3 National Directorate Parks State Film PD 9 Baharistan of Security (NDS) Studio Maslakh The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 17 BUSTAN-E KABUL, CHAMTALA, BAGH-E AREF KHAN

This new PD (established in 2003) covers an area of recent urban expansion at the northern edge of Kabul along the road leading to the Salang tunnel and the north of the country. It is physically located beyond the Khairkhana Pass and thus out of the Kabul Plateau, belonging rather to the Shomali Plateau. The northern boundary of Kabul reaches now the village of Karez-e Mir, started as a model village under the last king, well inside the woluswali of Shakardara. It is a rapidly growing residential area, experiencing a construction boom but still has space to fill in; moreover, the area along the highway represents a major transport and commercial hub both for agricultural products entering the city and people from the countryside accessing goods available only in the city. The development of these areas has been informal or managed by private developers, and they are not well serviced. A peculiar example is Chamtala: Once the site of landfilling for the solid waste of the city, it was occupied and developed as a residential area as soon as the government built some basic infrastructure meant for the waste collection project – which consequently stalled. The area is inhabited by people from the Shomali (overwhelmingly Tajiks plus some Pashtuns), as powerful commanders from this region control the land development business and facilitate the settlement of their natural constituencies, lobbying with the government for at least a minimum of infrastructure. Criminal gangs are active due to the presence of people and goods in transit and are often linked to the local commanders’ networks.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 23

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 18 ´

PD 18

PD 19

Qala-i-Dawlat Khwaja Bughra Qasaba Tara Khel PD 15 Fabrika-i-Khana Dashti Sazi Wazirabad

o Family Hayi Kabul_City_POI PD 4 Qala-i-Tahir Pulicharkhi o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Abc Area names PD 10 Qarya-i-Malik Ismayil Kabul river Chahar PD 9 secondary; Roads; primary Qala-i-Wazirabad Khwaja Rawash Qala-i-Wakil Kabul Historical Wall Taymani Qala-i-Musa Nawabadi Qala-i-Ali Puli Charkhi Qala-i-Khayat 0 1 2 km Pashmina Bafi Parks Qabulbay Mardan PD 12 The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 18 DEH SABZ: TARAKHEL, ZARINA, BAKHTIYARAN, ERFAN, SHAHRAK-E MUHAMMADIA

This PD was established in 2004 based on a presidential decree and is located northeast of Kabul Airport, in the woluswali of Deh Sabz, encompassing the northern slope of the Khwaja Rawash hills and the flat area west of the so-called New Road leading north to Bagram Airport (which is only relatively new, having been built by the Russians in the 1980s to provide an alternative route to Bagram airbase in the face of increased mujahedin ambushes on the main Salang highway). Settlements consist of four pre-existing villages (Tarakhel, Mir Alam, Zarina and Bakhtiyaran) and two newly built housing projects (Shahrak-e Muhammadia and Erfan). Most of this area is still agricultural, with residents working on farmland and gardens and selling the products in the city. There are also several brick kilns. The villages are unserviced, with most roads unpaved, and in the absence of the electricity grid, many houses have to rely on generators.

Pashtuns inhabit Tarakhel, Mir Alam and Zarina villages while Tajiks live in Bakhtiyaran. Apart from these origi- nal inhabitants, many Hazaras from the central provinces of the country have moved in since 2001 and reside in Shahrak-e Muhammadia and Erfan. The area is strongly influenced in terms of security by the networks of some commanders-turned-politicians and it can be sometimes volatile.

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January 2019 24 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 19 ´

PARWAN PROVINCE

PD 18

PD 19

Tara Khel

Family Hayi PD 15 Pulicharkhi

PD 9 Puli Charkhi Pashmina Bafi Kabul_City_POI Gumruk PD 21 Customs House o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport Qabilbay Hood Khel Abc Area names Dawood Khel Kabul river PD 12 secondary; Roads; primary Shina PD 16 Kabul Historical Wall 0 1 2 km Part Khail Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 19 DEH SABZ-BARIKAB

The establishment of this nahia in 2004 soon became the source of a controversy between Kabul Municipality and the minister for urban development affairs. In fact, this remote and barren area to the northeast of the city was to host the ‘New Kabul’ project, a whole new city built according to modern and eco-friendly standards (see AAN reporting here). The project seems now to have stalled and this PD, lying to the east of the New Road to Bagram, still includes only around 30 rural villages at the foot of the Koh-e Safi range and some manufactur- ing areas along the main road. Residents of PD 19 are a mix of old residents and a few newly arrived. Pashtuns are the majority. Security is relatively good, as the rural areas do not offer major targets for crimes or political violence. -How ever, the nearby Kuh-e Safi range has often served as a transit route for insurgents and is not firmly under government control.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 25

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 20

Qala-i-Bahadur Khan Ministry of Water Puli Takhnikum Wilayati Gul Buta Power And Irrigation Qala-i-Ghaybi Kamari Qala-i-Bakhtyar Hasan Khan Qala-i-Hasan Chihilsutun Qala-i-Bagalak Niyazi Afshari Darulaman Geologic And Dih Dana Baghi Chihilsutun Khani Sufla Qala-i-Adam Cartographic Khan Department Qala-i-Najar Ha Qala-i-Mir PD 8 Qala-i-Muhammad Damana ´ Nu burja PD 13 Farmi Ziraat Doghabad Ahamd Shewaki Ibrahim Temur Khan Qala-i-Haji Sar Asyab PD 7 Baghi Chahar Qolba Karim Qala-i-Taj PD 6 Qala-i-Muslim Gul Haji Dashti Kamari Qala-i-Logari Afghan Qala-i-Surkh Qala-i-Fatuh PD 22 Rishkhuri Payin Qala-i-Kuhna

PD 20 MAIDAN WARDAK PROVINCE

Kabul_City_POI

o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

LOGAR Abc Area names PROVINCE Kabul river

secondary; Roads; primary

Kabul Historical Wall

0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 20 CHARASIAB

This PD, the largest in terms of area, was created by adding to the city boundaries a large chunk of southern Ka- bul province down to the border with Logar, including around half of Charasiab and parts of Musayi woluswalis. Existing settlements include Nawabad, Khairabad, Charasiab, Chehel Dokhtaran, Nawniaz, Yazkhel, Miakhel, Shahrak-e Marjani and phase three of Shahrak Dasht-e Batola. Historically, this has been an agricultural area, and it is still the least urbanised among Kabul PDs, with a large percentage of its area still put to cultivation. Most of the new construction has happened since 2001. The area features the original inhabitants, mostly Pashtuns and some Tajiks, as well as newly arrived residents, many of whom hail from Khost and Paktia. The PD’s position along the highway leading to Logar and Paktia makes it strategic for both the government and insurgents, and it affects the security of areas along the highway. RETURN TO MAIN MAP

January 2019 26 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 21 ´

PD 19

PD 21

PD 12

Kabul_City_POI

o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

Abc Area names Kabul river PD 22 secondary; Roads; primary Kabul Historical Wall

0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 21 HUDKHEL, DEH KHODADAD

This PD is located east of Kabul city right before the beginning of the Kabul river gorge leading to the Mahipar pass and marking the geographical end of the Kabul plateau. Settlements have not been built based on the municipality’s master plan. Even the government’s basic services, like schools and clinics, are not to be found in this PD, and the only education available for boys and girls are in the local mosques. The area hosts the ada (bus station) for Jalalabad and the east of the country. Apart from some Pashtun tribes, like the Babakarkhel and Katakhel, residents moved in after 2001. They are mostly Pashtuns with a few Tajiks. Security in this PD is far from good, as the area is notorious in Kabul for being a haunt of thieves and robbers.

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AAN Thematic Report 01/2019 Fabrizio Foschini: Kabul Unpacked 27

AFGHANISTAN || Kabul, PD 22

Kah Furoshi Chamani Huzuri Family Hayi Dashti Shina Ahangari Darwaza-i-Lahuri Shah Shahid Sayid Noor Nasaji Wa Bagrami Fabrika-i-Nasaji PD 16 Baghi Hindu Guzar Siyah Muhammad Bagrami PD 21 wa Bagrami Qazi Sang Shah Mena PD 12 ´ PD 1 Chamani Qalacha Bagrami Shuhadayi Koli Dasto Khel Saliheen Hashmat Khan Du Sad Family Qala-i-Sher Bagrami Alam Qala-i-Hashmat Rahman Mena Khan Qala-i-Amir Chamani Muhammad Kamari Wa PD 8 Bini Hisar Bagrami Qala-i-Khanadar Gul Buta Wilayati Kamari

Qala-i-Bagalak Niyazi Qala-i-Hasan Qala-i-Hasan Qala-i-Adam Khani Sufla Damana Khani Ulya Khan Qala-i-Mir Qala-i-Muhammad Ahamd Qala-i-Haji Ibrahim Shewaki Temur Khan Karim Qala-i-Taj PD 7 Gul Baghi Haji Afghan PD 22 Dashti Kamari

PD 20

Kabul_City_POI

o Hamid Karzai Intl Airport

Abc Area names Kabul river

secondary; Roads; primary

Kabul Historical Wall

0 1 2 km Parks

The data, boundaries and names and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by iMMAP or USAID/OFDA. Date: 31/10/2018. Projection: WGS 1984 UTM Zone 42N

PD 22 BAGRAMI, SHIWAKI, KAMARI, BUTKHAK

This PD was carved out of the eastern part of PD 8, fully inside Bagrami woluswali. Originally part of the agricul- tural hinterland of Kabul, it still contains vast tracts of agricultural land and, towards its eastern end, a barren and semi-arid expanse. It contains around 20 villages; among the most important are Shiwaki, Nawabad-e Bagrami, Kamari, Qala-ye Rabaz, Hussainkhel, Kart-e Ghulam Jan, Butkhak, Qala-ye Mohsin and Gosfand Dara. Some new housing projects are Shahrak-e Dawlatzai, Shahrak-e Sayed Jamaluddin and Shahrak-e Haji Daud. A conspicuous landmark was the Chakari Minaret, one of the ancient stone towers for guiding Buddhist pilgrims that fell after an earthquake in March 1998. The agricultural areas are interspersed with villages and are well-irrigated thanks to the Logar river that marks the western border of the district; newly-built shahraks have been built mostly on the barren areas beyond the belt of agricultural areas and thus far removed from the city. The same is true for two industrial parks, Bagrami and Kamari, developed with international assistance. Development of the Kamari industrial park has long been blocked by a land dispute involving a commander-turned-politician. The original residents are mainly Pashtuns, with Tajiks in Kamari and Shiwaki villages. There are many newcom- ers from Pashtun areas, many of them IDPs and with a sizable number of Kuchis among them. Residents have started to claim some of the barren ‘state’ land in the eastern part of the PD to prevent Kuchis from doing so. Security is relatively good, but there have been clashes between local residents and Kuchi settlers and other land disputes.

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January 2019 ABOUT THE AFGHANISTAN ANALYSTS NETWORK (AAN)

The Afghanistan Analysts Network (AAN) is a non-profit, independent policy research organisation. It aims to bring together the knowledge and experience of a large number of experts to inform policy and increase the understanding of Afghan realities. The institutional structure of AAN includes a team of analysts and a network of regular contributors with expertise in the fields of Afghan politics, governance, rule of law and security. AAN will publish regular in-depth thematic reports, policy briefings and comments. The main channel for dissemination of the reports is the AAN web site. For further information, please visit www.aan-afghanistan.org.

QUALITY CONTROL OF AAN’S PUBLICATIONS

The opinions expressed in publications by the Afghanistan Analysts Network (AAN) do not necessarily reflect those of AAN. Publications by AAN are, however, subjected to academic style review and peer review to ensure the quality of the research and the reliability of the analysis. AAN thematic reports and briefing papers are read by at least two internal and two external reviewers, discussion papers by at least two internal reviewers and blogs by at least one internal reviewer. For further information about the quality control and the review process of AAN’s publications, please contact AAN at [email protected].

AUTHOR BIO

Fabrizio Foschini traveled and done research in Afghanistan extensively since 2003. He studied the history of Asia at the University of Bologna in Italy and achieved his Ph.D. on the modern and contemporary history of Afghanistan with a specific focus on oral history. Between 2010 and 2014, he was based in Kabul with the Afghanistan Analysts Network as a political analyst, and he contributes regularly to the organisation’s research. Despite not being based in the country currently, he still visits Afghanistan often and continues researching the country’s history and society. Besides this, he works with Afghan refugees in Italy, coordinating translation services for the Italian Consortium of Solidarity (ICS). Fabrizio has published extensively on Afghanistan and is fluent in Dari.

© Afghanistan Analysts Network 2019 All rights reserved. No part of this publication can may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without full attribution.