Architecture and Tourism This page intentionally left blank Architecture and Tourism Perception, Performance and Place Edited by D. Medina Lasansky and Brian McLaren Oxford • New York Disclaimer: Some images in the printed version of this book are not available for inclusion in the eBook. English edition First published in 2004 by Berg Editorial offices: 1st Floor, Angel Court, 81 St Clements Street, Oxford, OX4 1AW 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, USA © D. Medina Lasansky and Brian McLaren 2004 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berg. Berg is the imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Architecture and tourism : perception, performance and place / edited by D. Medina Lasansky and Brian McLaren. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 1-85973-704-8 (cloth) — ISBN 1-85973-709-9 (pbk.) 1. Architecture and tourism. I. Lasansky, D. Medina. II. McLaren, Brian D., 1956– NA2543.T68A73 2004 720’.1’03—dc22 2004006122 British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 1 85973 704 8 (hardback) ISBN 1 85973 709 9 (paperback) Typeset by JS Typesetting Ltd, Wellingborough, Northants. Printed in the United Kingdom by Biddles Ltd, King’s Lynn. www.bergpublishers.com Contents List of Figures vii Notes on Contributors xi Foreword Davydd J. Greenwood xv Introduction D. Medina Lasansky 1 Part I Defining a Canon and a Mode of Perception 1 Reproduction, Fragmentation, and Collection: Rome and the Origin of Souvenirs Sarah Benson 15 2 Early Travelers in Greece and the Invention of Medieval Architectural History Kostis Kourelis 37 3 Performing Abroad: British Tourists in Italy and their Practices, 1840–1914 Jill Steward 53 Part II Politics of Pilgrimage 4 From Tripoli to Ghadames: Architecture and the Tourist Experience of Local Culture in Italian Colonial Libya Brian McLaren 75 5 A Pilgrimage to the Alcázar of Toledo: Ritual, Tourism and Propaganda in Franco’s Spain Miriam Basilio 93 – v – Contents 6 Authenticating Dungeons, Whitewashing Castles: The Former Sites of the Slave Trade on the Ghanaian Coast Cheryl Finley 109 Part III Packaging Place 7 From Photographic Fragments to Architectural Illusions at the 1929 Poble Espanyol in Barcelona Jordana Mendelson 129 8 Simulating France, Seducing the World: The Regional Center at the 1937 Paris Exposition Deborah D. Hurtt 147 9 Tourist Geographies: Remapping Old Havana D. Medina Lasansky 165 Part IV Performance 10 Sweetening Colonialism: A Mauritian Themed Resort Tim Edensor and Uma Kothan 189 11 Doing it Right: Postwar Honeymoon Resorts in the Pocono Mountains Barbara Penner 207 Part V The Postmodern Imagination 12 New Politics of the Spectacle: “Bilbao” and the Global Imagination Joan Ockman 227 13 Egypt on Steroids: Luxor Las Vegas and Postmodern Orientalism Jeffrey Cass 241 Index 265 – vi – List of Figures 1.1 Souvenirs for sale at the Colosseum, Rome. Summer 2002. Photograph by author. 16 1.2 Giovanni Battista Piranesi, Veduta della vasta Fontana di Trevi, from Vedute di Roma, mid-eighteenth century. By permission of the Division of Rare and Manuscript Collections, Cornell University Library, Ithaca, NY. 20 1.3 Pietro Bracci, collection of cameo casts reproducing objects and architecture from the Vatican Museum, c. 1775. White plaster. Research Library, The Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles (2001.M.27). 22 1.4 Pietro Martire Felini, woodcut depicting Michelangelo’s Moses from San Pietro in Vincoli, reprinted from Trattato Nuovo delle Cose Maravigliose Dell’Alma Città Di Roma, Rome, 1615, p. 337. Rome, American Academy Library. 26 1.5 Roman workshop, collector’s cabinet with eighteen views of Rome, last quarter of eighteenth century. Wood, bronze, and painted parchment. Rome, Museo di Roma. 32 2.1 Saint Nicholas in Mystras, from André Couchaud, Choix d’églises byzantines en Grèce, Paris: Didron, 1842, pl. 27, fig. 1. 45 2.2 View of Kyparissia, from William Gell Narrative of a Journey in the Morea, London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown, 1823, p. 1. 47 2.3 Gabriel Millet (second row, second from left) aboard the Troude on April 1893, from Georges Radet, L’histoire et l’oevre de l’École française d’Athènes, Paris: A. Fontemoing, 1901, fig. 254. 49 3.1 Postcard c.1905. Paul Hey “Tourists on the Rialto bridge”, published by Otto Zieher, Munich. Collection of the author.. 60 3.2 “Snob writing his name on the roof of Milan cathedral” (Doyle, 1854: 56). Author’s copy. 62 3.3 Postcard c. 1905. “Moonlight scene of the Forum” (advertising Rome and back for 10 guineas. Published by Thomas Cook). Collection of the author. 68 4.1 Libyan Tourism and Hotel Association, Vacation Combinations in Libya, travel brochure, 1937. Collection of the author. 78 – vii – List of Figures 4.2 Oriental dance, Arab Café, Suq al-Mushir, Tripoli, Libya, postcard, 1937. Collection of the author. 82 4.3 Florestano Di Fausto, Hotel Rumia, Jefren, Libya, 1934. The Mitchell Wolfson Jr. Collection – Fondazione Regionale Cristoforo Colombo, Genoa, Italy. 85 4.4 Florestano Di Fausto, Hotel Nalut, Nalut, Libya (1935), postcard, 1937. Collection of the author. 86 4.5 Florestano Di Fausto and Stefano Gatti-Casazza, Hotel Ain-el-Fras, Ghadames (1935), postcard, 1937. Collection of the author. 88 5.1 Postcard reproducing a view of the patio prior to 1936, from the series Alcázar de Toledo, 24 Vistas en Huecograbado, Madrid: Jalón Angel and Hauser y Manet, ca. 1939. Collection of the author. 94 5.2 Postcard reproducing a view of the patio following the siege, from the series Alcázar de Toledo, 24 Vistas en Huecograbado, Madrid: Jalón Angel and Hauser y Manet, ca. 1939. Collection of the author. 94 5.3 Fernando Álvarez de Sotomayor, Portrait of General Francisco Franco, 1940. Collection Museo del Ejército, Madrid. Reproduced with permission. 103 6.1 View of cannons, Cape Coast Castle, Ghana, 1999. Photograph by author. 112 6.2 Plaque of remembrance and wreath, Elmina Castle, Ghana, 1999. Photograph by author. 117 6.3 Reenactment, Cape Coast Castle, Ghana, 1999. Photograph by author. 122 7.1 Bird’s eye view of the Poble Espanyol. Courtesy of the Arxiu Històric del Col.legi d’Arquitectes de Catalunya. 130 7.2 Photograph taken by Francesc Folguera and Ramón Reventós of the Utebo Bell Tower in Zaragoza, Aragaon. Fons Plandiura LP-26-45. Courtesy of the Photographic Archive of the Arxiu Històric de la Cuitat de Barcelona. Photographed by Jordi Calafell. 136 7.3 Photograph of the Poble Espanyol in construction, with the reconstruction of the Utebo Bell Tower visible in the background. Courtesy of the Photographic Archive of the Arxiu Històric de la Cuitat de Barcelona. 137 7.4 Women and pony rides in the main plaza of the Poble Espanyol. Courtesy of the Arxiu Històric del Col.legi d’Arquitectes de Catalunya. 138 8.1 Regional Center, aerial view. Album Officiel, Paris: La Photolith, 1937. 148 – viii – List of Figures 8.2 Regional Center, master plan. Rapport Général, vol 8, Pl. 3, Paris: Imprimerie Nationale, 1938–1940. 152 8.3 Regional Center, Alsace Pavilion. Postcard, 1937. Collection of the author. 154 8.4 Regional Center, Flandre-Artois Pavilion. L’Architecture, Centre Régional, Paris: Alexis Sinjon, 1937. 155 9.1 Tourists seated on the steps of the Habana Capitol, 2002, negative (left) and the reworked print (right). Collection of the author. 166 9.2 Habanaguanex brochure advertising the historic hotels operated by the Office of the Historian, Habana, c. 2002. 175 9.3 Plaza Vieja, Habana. The restored fountain is visible behind the fence. 180 10.1 Painting of Creole Plantation Landscape, lobby of Sugar Beach Resort, Mauritius. Photograph by Tim Edensor, 2002. 191 10.2 Themed performance on the steps of the Manor House, Sugar Beach Resort, Mauritius. Photograph by Uma Kothari, 2002. 193 11.1 Promotional material for Honeymoon Haven, 1967. Collection of the author. 210 11.2 Pocono Gardens Lodge advertisement, Bride’s Magazine, Spring 1965, p. 244. 215 11.3 Cove Haven advertisement, Bride’s Magazine, April/May 1966, p. 181. 216 11.4 Honeymooners at Honeymoon Haven, 1967. Collection of the author. 217 12.1 Frank Gehry, Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao. 228 12.2 Cover, New York Times Magazine, with story on the Guggenheim Bilbao by Herbert Muschamp, September 7, 1997. © The New York Times. Reproduced by permission. 232 13.1 Luxor Las Vegas, 1996. Courtesy of Luxor Las Vegas. 242 13.2 Talking camels at entrance to Giza Galleria, Luxor Las Vegas, 2002. Photograph by author. 249 13.3 Series of columns at Pharaoh’s Pheast Buffet, Luxor Las Vegas. Photograph by author. 256 13.4 Lobby mural behind registration desk, Luxor Las Vegas, 2002. Photograph by author. 258 – ix – This page intentionally left blank Contributors Miriam Basilio is Curatorial Assistant in the Department of Drawings, The Museum of Modern Art, New York. She gained her doctorate in the History of Art from the Institute of Fine Arts, New York University, in 2002. Her chapter is drawn from part of her Ph.D. dissertation, Re-Inventing Spain: Images of the Nation in Painting and Propaganda, 1936–1943. Sarah Benson has recently been Visiting Assistant Professor of the History of Art at Cornell University. Her contribution to this volume stems from a publication she is preparing on representations of Rome in prephotographic mass media. She is currently researching the role of printed images and optical instruments in cultural exchanges between the courts of Siam and Europe. Jeffrey Cass is Associate Provost and Associate Professor of English at Texas A & M International University. He has published several essays on the work of nineteenth-century women writers, including Maria Edgeworth, Elizabeth Gaskell, Mary Shelley, and Charlotte Brontë, as well as a variety of articles on popular culture.