PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PARIS spring ’09 spring spring ’09 spring reported Friday onWWD.com. of Chiuri,44,andPiccioli,41,wasfirst received secondeffortforthehouselastweek. awell- season. Herfiringironicallycameafter lasted onlytwortwcollectionsandonecouture company duringtheParis shows.Facchinetti the week offeverishspeculationsurrounding a dismissedascreativedirectorafter abruptly to replaceAlessandraFacchinetti, whowas Italian fashionbrand. been givensolecreativecontroloftheiconic Valentino’s ready-to-wear nowthatthey’ve Chiuri andPierPaolo Piccioliplanfor what accessoriesdesignersMariaGrazia MILAN — MILAN By AlessandraIlari To BuildonTradition Chiuri andPiccioliAim Valentino’s NewTeam: News of her departure and the appointment News ofherdepartureandtheappointment Chiuri andPiccioliweretappedFriday Evolution over revolution — that’s Evolutionoverrevolution—that’s WWD Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Women’s Newspaper Daily •$2.00 Wear Retailers’ •October6,2008 •The Daily See Ooh La La! Ooh La For moreontheshows,seepages8to 15and19. leather concoction. a vibrantfeather-and-metallic of materialsandinbeautifulrealclothes.Here, upbeat, aqualityexpressed inmore-is-moremixes Itwasallwonderfully tribute toYvesSaintLaurent. style, fromitsEdithPiafsoundtracktoacolorful Vuitton onSundaywasanexuberant riffonFrench The springcollectionMarcJacobsshowedforLouis

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$ 2.0 On On 0 Paris Fashion Week Week Fashion Paris WWD.COM Shows, Parties, Parties, Shows, and Scoops Scoops and ESPRIT — A LOVE STORY

All empires start somewhere. The fashion phenomenon that is Esprit began with a raised thumb and a foot on the brake in July 1963. Twenty-year-old Susie Russel was driving up to Tahoe City to work in her summer job as a keno runner at the Cal-Neva casino, when she spied a guy bumming a ride on Route 89 near Emerald Bay. She slowed her burgundy Beetle. She always picked up hitchhikers. Everyone did. This was the sixties. Besides, the guy by the side of the road was cute. “He was a tree-topper, so he was kind of rugged,” she recalls. “Clean but rugged.” She stopped her bug, and Doug Tompkins jumped in. Tompkins, twenty years old, was an Eastern preppie who had come to California hoping to make the US ski team and compete in the 1964 Winter Olympics. He ended up trimming trees instead. “He was from upstate New York and had this attitude that the East was the better coast,” she recalls. He told her he attended Harvard, figuring she’d be impressed. He didn’t; she wasn’t. Instead she was irked. Such a back-East thing, pulling rank. “If you’re too cool, you can get out now,” she told him. But Doug didn’t budge. Susie had a blonde ponytail, bare feet and a way about her that made a man invent an Ivy League résumé. She dropped him in town, a bit relieved. But he stuck in her mind. And he kept turning up in the Tahoe social ecosystem. She saw him again at a party. And again after that. She loaned him sixty dollars. When the summer ended, she went with him on a surfing trip to Mexico. One thing led to another. The two wed that November. In 1967 they started Plain Jane, a dress label that eventually evolved into Esprit in 1968.

4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 WWD.COM Economic News Weighs on Retail Shares By Evan Clark ly ease the fl ow of credit as banks are able to rid WWDMONDAY their balance sheets of toxic mortgage debt and Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear THE BANKS GOT THEIR $700 BILLION BAILOUT return to more normal lending activities, whether from Washington Friday, but retailers got more bad to each other, corporations or consumers. FASHION economic news to dampen their holiday spirits. On the employment front, department stores The highlights of the Paris spring shows included ▲ 8 The U.S. shed a seasonally adjusted 159,000 took a beating, cutting payrolls by 10,800 jobs collections from Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Alexander jobs in September, which was the largest decline in September, according to a monthly Labor McQueen and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton. in more than fi ve years and included the loss of Department report. 41,000 retail positions. That marks nine straight It was the largest decline in the retail trade GENERAL months of shrinking employment for a total of sector in September. Of the 276,000 jobs lost in re- 1 Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, 760,000 jobs lost so far this year and another tail since December 2007, a substantial portion of the longtime accessories duo at Valentino, will serious blow to consumer sentiment. A surge of them, 60,300 positions, were at department stores. succeed Alessandra Facchinetti as rtw designer. new jobs at specialty stores, however, pushed For the fi rst time since 1990, the earliest date their payrolls higher than those of department for which records were available, the number of 6 EYE: It may be risky waiting four years to release stores for the fi rst time on record. people employed by specialty stores, 1,500,900, a second album, but for Jem, who recently issued The Standard & Poor’s Retail Index fi nished was higher, by 600, than the employee count at “Down To Earth,” timing is everything. the day down 2.8 percent, or 9.50 points, to 331.83. department stores. Last month, apparel and ac- ACCESSORIES: Soft handbags in strong vivid Retail stocks fell a total of 11.7 percent last week. cessories specialty stores added 2,600 positions. 20 colors and voluminous shapes, with shiny details, The broader market fared somewhat better, with “Call it the death of the department store,” the Dow Jones Industrial Average off 1.5 percent, said Richard Yamarone, director of economic topped the trends at the Mipel show. or 157.47 points, to 10,325.38 on Friday, making for research for Argus Research Corp. 21 JEWELRY: Gedalio “Gerry” Grinberg, who helped a fall of 7.3 percent for the week. Department store staff levels peaked in 2001 turn Americans on to luxury watches, refl ects on The commotion on Wall Street and the broad and have declined since then, while specialty his career at Movado Group, as he retires. economic weakness has prompted many to stores have increased the size of their workforce, reevaluate the prospects for retailers in the he said. 22 INNERWEAR: The Underfashion Club staged a fourth quarter, even though chains have spent Industry mergers and the rise of Internet seminar called “Rising to the Occasion: Keeping much of the year readying themselves for some shopping have contributed to declining depart- Your Brand on Top in a Down Market.” tough sledding. ment store payrolls, Yamarone said. 25 Congress sent a multifaceted trade bill to President The U.S. apparel Chanel Bush that renews duty free apparel benefi ts to manufacturing sector Sub-Sahara African and Andean countries. also continued to lose jobs. Apparel manufac- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 26-27 turers trimmed head TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS counts by 2,400, while [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. textile mills that manu- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 facture apparel fabric FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. shed 1,300 positions. VOLUME 196, NO. 73. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and Textile product mills November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division that make home furnish- of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services ing fabrics expanded provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice payrolls by 200 jobs. President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post The downward Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. plunge in overall em- Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA ployment last month 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please was fueled by steep job write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. losses in the retail trade, Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S construction and manu- WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 facturing segments. The or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the unemployment rate was World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened unchanged in September companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Amy Noblin of Pali Research downgraded Urban Outfi tters to “sell” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call from “neutral” based on “our belief the stock is not pricing in the from the prior month at 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY increasing risk of a broadening consumer slowdown.” 6.1 percent. OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, “The employment re- PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS port is just the latest in SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND On Friday, Mark Montagna, equity analyst at a series of indicators showing that the economy OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. C.L. King & Associates Inc., reduced his earnings was deteriorating rapidly as the third quarter projections on Gap Inc., Limited Brands Inc., The progressed,” said Nigel Gault, chief U.S. econo- TJX Cos. Inc., Ross Stores Inc., Stein Mart Inc., mist at Global Insight Inc. Coldwater Creek Inc. and The Dress Barn Inc. “This was much worse than was expected, as DAILY Everyone was always “The impact of the weak macroenvironment, the full weight of the banking crisis, the cost of “ record levels of gift cards and the wait-to-the- imported oil and job losses to China bore down QUOTE so surprised by the last-minute shopping strategy of consumers on manufacturing and the broader economy will likely cause retailers to take steeper-than- with unrelenting pressure,” said Peter Morici, fact that we know the archives even planned pre-Christmas markdowns, despite professor at the University of Maryland School large planned inventory reductions,” Montagna of Business and a former chief economist at the said. “While retailers did a much better job with U.S. International Trade Commission. better than Valentino himself. We are inventory planning for [the fourth quarter], we A spate of recent economic indicators has do not believe such plans taken months ago con- painted a bleak outlook. In addition to the de- extremely familiar with this house and templated such a dire economic situation as we clining employment levels, consumer spending are apparently experiencing.” slumped, factory orders and shipments fell and very close to it. The increasing appetite for gift cards could real incomes have declined, according to a va- ” make for lighter traffi c in stores, since people on riety of economic reports in recent weeks. The — Maria Grazia Chiuri on being named Valentino’s creative director the hunt for cards are destination shoppers and added strain of the controversial fi nancial bail- for ready-to-wear along with Pier Paolo Piccioli. Page one. not holiday browsers, Montagna said. out package legislators hashed out and uncer- Also on Friday, Amy Noblin of Pali Research tainty in the markets added to the pressures on downgraded Urban Outfi tters Inc. to “sell” from the general economic picture. COMING THIS WEEK “neutral” based on “our belief the stock is not — With contributions from pricing in the increasing risk of a broadening Liza Casabona and Kristi Ellis WEDNESDAY: Interstoff Asia Department releases the consumer slowdown.” Essential Autumn, Hong Kong August foreign trade report. Among the top department store declin- (through Friday). ers for the day were Dillard’s Inc., down 8.9 SATURDAY: Atlanta Women’s & percent to $11.06; Macy’s Inc., 6.3 percent to TODAY ON THURSDAY: Ethical Fashion Children’s Apparel Market $15.19, and Saks Inc., 6 percent to $8.05. Those Show, Paris (through Sunday). (through Oct. 14). specialty stores losing market capitalization • Major U.S. retailers report included Urban Outfi tters, down 8.4 percent to September same-store sales. SUNDAY: Mercedes-Benz $26.55; American Eagle Outfi tters Inc., 8.3 per- Los Angeles Fashion Week cent to $13.63; Aéropostale Inc., 6.5 percent to FRIDAY: The U.S. Commerce (through Oct. 16). $27.85, and Bebe Stores Inc., 5.3 percent to $8.59. WWD Apparel producers and brands losing ground in- .COM CORRECTIONS cluded G-III Apparel Group Ltd., 6.6 percent to • WWDTrend: Colorblocking $15.58; Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., 5.5 percent to • Venerable actor Ernest Borgnine, who published his autobiography $57.99; Jones Apparel Group Inc., 4.6 percent to • Up-to-the-minute coverage of Paris in August, is alive and thriving at age 91. This was incorrect in an $16.13, and Phillips-Van Heusen, 3.6 percent to article that appeared on page 13, Friday. $34.07. (For a full list of major international re- Fashion Week with reviews tail and vendor stocks, see page 25.) and Fashion Scoops • Fragrance supplier Firmenich has named Pierre Negrin and On a more positive note, when President Bush GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY Fabrice Pellegrin perfumers for its fi ne fragrance teams in New signed the bailout legislation into law Friday, he Rodarte RTW • Videos of key collections York and Paris, respectively. This was reported incorrectly on page opened the fi scal fl oodgates to at least theoretical- Spring 2009 • Global breaking news 12, Friday. /2D3@B7A3;3

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SOME MAY THINK IT’S RISKY up on “The O.C.” as a wedding singer covering waiting four years to release a Paul McCartney’s “Maybe I’m Amazed.” In 2006, follow-up to a debut album. But in she started working on her follow-up, which was the case of singer-songwriter Jem ready last year — but then her label underwent (Jemma Griffiths) — who recently reorganization, delaying its release. issued “Down To Earth” — timing is This situation would put some artists into a state everything. of hysteria, but not Griffi ths. Last year she kept The 33-year-old Wales native, who now lives in busy writing a TV pilot with her actor fi ancé Joey L.A., doesn’t have the typical pop star story. “When Mendicino. “To be honest, it hasn’t bothered me I was younger I didn’t have that ‘I want to be a star’ because then the ‘Sex and the City’ thing happened thing,” she admits. Following her parent’s wishes, and I feel like everything happened at the right she went to college to study law, with no plans time.” Griffi ths’ song “It’s Amazing” scored to practice it. Although she has written songs on placement synched to the scene where Carrie dyes her piano since age 10, her family didn’t realize her hair brown in the movie, and the tune ended the extent of her up on the soundtrack passion. “I just knew album. in my heart that I And perhaps loved writing music I have to fi nd some [heels] where “SATC” rubbed off and what it did to “ in other ways. When my soul.” I’m not going to break my neck. she tours this fall, After receiving — Jemma Griffi” ths Griffi ths plans to her law degree, ditch her trainers Griffi ths entered the from her fi rst tour music business by becoming an agent to U.K.-based and be more fashion-forward. “I haven’t performed DJ/record producer Adam Freeland while running in heels yet,” she confesses, but looks forward to road his record label. She then started to record her own testing brands like Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik songs, infl uenced by a wide range of music from soul and Christian Louboutin. “I have to fi nd some [heels] to hip-hop to classical and dance beats. Soon after, where I’m not going to break my neck.” she ventured to L.A. and got a break at KCRW radio And although she favors Diesel and Juicy station, where she dropped off her demo. They played Couture in her everyday life and Gucci and Dolce her music for a year before she teamed up with & Gabbana for events, she’s hoping to work with producer Guy Sigsworth back in the U.K. Sigsworth a particular designer on her tour wardrobe if produced her songs and then they went on to cowrite she headlines rather than supports. “I’m not “Nothing Fails,” which ended up on Madonna’s 2003 going to say who, but I’d like them to put together album “American Life.” Shortly after, she was signed some clothes that make it a show like art so that to Dave Matthews’ label, ATO Records. between the visuals and the music, it all kind of Following the 2004 release of her debut “Finally connects,” she says. “I think if you’re going to do a

Hidden Jem Woken,” Griffi ths’ songs appeared on shows like show, it’s good to put on a show and I think fashion “Desperate Housewives,” “Six Feet Under,” “The is superimportant for that.” O.C.” and “Grey’s Anatomy.” She even showed — Tara Bonet-Black PARTY FOUL Force Field AS BARACK OBAMA AND JOHN MCCAIN DUKE IT “children of the powerful” when researching the play, IN THE DECADE SINCE SHE FIRST SLIPPED A PAIR out during their second presidential debate Tuesday adding the Internet has changed the rules for political of Manolos on Sarah Jessica Parker’s feet for “Sex and night, Londoners will be enjoying a different kind of families. “People forget that there wasn’t even YouTube the City,” Patricia Field has become a fairy godmother American political drama. “Now or Later,” New York in 2004,” he says. “The ease of uploading videos and for many a project in need of some high fashion playwright Christopher Shinn’s latest work, which images has transformed what people can expect from wizardry. But the woman responsible for styling New opened at the Royal Court theater in September, privacy — regular people as well as powerful people.” York-based TV shows like “Cashmere Mafi a” and “Ugly imagines a Democratic candidate in the midst of Indeed, the play parallels the predicament of Betty,” and fi lms like 2006’s “The Devil Wears Prada,” a public relations nightmare: as he is about to be vice presidential nominee Sarah Palin’s 17-year- has left the concrete jungle behind for her latest gig, named president, grainy photos of his 20-year-old son old daughter, Bristol, whose pregnancy — and “Kath & Kim,” which premieres Thursday on NBC. attending a wild college party — dressed as the prophet forthcoming marriage — were hastily revealed by the “It takes place in the middle of nowhere Florida, Mohammed, no less — start to emerge on the Internet. Republican party earlier this year, before bloggers’ where the land is cheap and they build those The intense, 80-minute play is set entirely in versions of the news could take hold. “It was developments,” Field says of the comedy, in which the hotel room of the president-elect’s son, John — interesting, as in that situation the daughter was Molly Shannon and Selma Blair star as the title played by Eddie Redmayne — who’s holed up there forced to agree to managing the pregnancy in a way characters, a mother and grown daughter living along with the rest of the politician’s camp. As the that was politically useful,” says Shinn. “Whether it unhappily under one roof. “[The style is] Florida TV broadcasts the election results, the campaign was a willing agreement or the daughter was forced, blue-collar mall.” Accordingly, Field scoured the Newport A scene from Mall in Hoboken, N.J., and Los Angeles’ “Now or Later.” knock-off haven Santee Alley for separates like DayGlo overalls, spandex jumpsuits and rainbow tube tops to would blend in with the ▲ Molly Shannon and Selma Blair in Floridian palette. “If Gucci were to make a character as Kath and Kim. loafer in brown, black and pistachio, for sure you’re going to fi nd the pistachio in Florida. You’d only fi nd the brown and black in New York,” explains the Manhattanite, who also owns a home in Miami’s South Beach. But location wasn’t Field’s only consideration when putting together looks for the series. “The joke [of the show] is that the mom has got a life and the daughter is miserable,” explains Field. “The comedy is in that irony.” To that end, Field put the older Shannon in “tight jeans, low cut tops — she’s dressing a little sexy,” while she outfi tted Blair in more basic T-shirts and shorts, save for the occasional slogan T. “But nothing too fashion-y, because that will blow it. Christopher Shinn She has to stay trailer,” she says. Not that Field’s work is meant to be completely believable, either. “I don’t do reality. I do hyper-reality. It’s reality on its toes, it’s elevated, it’s popped, it’s invigorated, it’s anxiously awaits for the incriminating photos to she ultimately toed the party line.” Shinn adds that Technicolorized,” she says. “I think at this time that migrate from blogs to major news outlets. Advisers when writing the play, he was also aware of Prince we’re in, people are drawn to a little escapism.” attempt to convince John to issue a public apology, Harry’s gaffe, when he was snapped at a costume Patricia Field And Field claims she doesn’t long for the anticipating the images’ effect on the U.S.’s relations party in 2005 dressed in a Nazi uniform. “It was couture she has called in for other shows. “My with Muslim countries. But John resists, arguing fascinating to see the p.r. effort that went into that life isn’t just Madison Avenue and 57th Street. his costume was a protest against what he sees as response,” says Shinn. (The prince, via Clarence It includes it, but there’s a spectrum,” insists his fellow libertine students’ hypocritical defense of House, issued a public apology.) the Queens, N.Y., native. “For me, the most fun Islamic fundamentalists. While Shinn’s play has received critical acclaim is to create the character. That could mean Dior, Shinn, who hails from Hartford, Conn., says he during its London run, the playwright says American it could mean vintage, it could mean suburban was drawn to examine the great and the good in producers weren’t so keen to stage the work. “There mall. Whatever it takes.” his latest work, which he began to write 18 months was a surprising degree of reluctance to do the play [in Indeed, Field lives by this maxim. “I try ago. “I’m particularly interested in narcissism the U.S.],” says Shinn, whose previous projects include to take as much work as I can physically and powerful people — in ancient Greece and in “On the Mountain,” which premiered at New York’s take, sometimes to a point where I overload Shakespeare’s time, they were writing about kings Playwright Horizons in 2005, and “Dying City,” which myself,” says the designer, who also styled the and queens, but in our time we focus on regular, looks at the lives of a young actor and his twin brother, forthcoming fi lm “Confessions of a Shopaholic,” middle-class and working-class people,” says Shinn a soldier who died in Iraq. “I can only speculate,” Shinn maintains her cult store in New York City and over the phone from his New York home. “I thought, continues, “but I have the feeling that in America, just launched a clothing line on the Home ‘Let me pretend I’m an ancient Greek playwright and everyone is so sick of Bush that they don’t want to think Shopping Network. “I’m globe hoppin’. I’m write about the powerful people who lead the world.’” about a Democrat [president] facing problems.” doing everything.” Shinn, 33, admits he looked at the lives of — Nina Jones — Amanda FitzSimons WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 7 WWD.COM Vitali Leaves Maybelline MEMO PAD HOLLYWOOD IMPACT: Consumers are looking to celebrities for style ideas, and even spending For Position at Lancôme more money to buy products related to celebrities CHERYL VITALI, CURRENTLY SENIOR VICE Cheryl — at least according to People StyleWatch, president of U.S. marketing for Maybelline New Vitali which, of course, happens to cover celebrities and York/Garnier, revealed Friday that she is leaving their style. The magazine revealed at a breakfast that role to join Lancôme, where she will hold Thursday morning results from its Celebrity Style the same title. Report, a survey with GfK Roper of 2,500 women She is replacing Nina White in the role and on how celebrities affect their own personal style will report to Carol Hamilton, president of and purchases. According to StyleWatch publisher L’Oréal’s Luxury Products Division. Michelle Myers, “They look to these celebrities to Vitali made the announcement at the validate their purchases.” Cosmetic Executive Women’s Achiever Awards at Among the highlights of the survey: The Gwyneth Paltrow in a Pleasures ad. the Waldorf-Astoria on Friday. She was honored majority of participants (80 percent) said a alongside Estée Lauder’s Jane Hertzmark Hudis, celebrity doesn’t have to be an A-lister to be A NEW TUNE: The puppies are gone, but a new ad Philosophy’s Cristina Carlino and Sephora’s a style icon — up-and-comers Blake Lively and campaign for Estée Lauder Pleasures still features Betsy Olum. She will assume her new role today. Rachel Bilson are as infl uential as any Hollywood the trademark peonies — plus, of course, Gwyneth The appointment is the fi rst major one in Walk of Fame occupant. Consumers also Paltrow, who now sports a guitar with the tag line, luxury for Hamilton, formerly president of mass responded more to celebrities who are relatable in “I live for moments like this.” The ads, which will powerhouse L’Oréal Paris, who was named to her appearance to real women and photographed in launch in November and December editions of current role in late July and assumed her new position in September. real situations: 61 percent get fashion ideas from fashion and beauty magazines in the U.S. and the “I’m thrilled to have Cheryl join the Lancôme team,” Hamilton said candid photos in magazines — a celebrity leaving U.K., were photographed by Bruce Weber, who is after the lunch. “Her achievements and breadth of experience makes her Starbucks in jeans and a scarf, for example — working with Paltrow and the Lauder brand for the the ideal person to lead Lancôme to number-one status in the market.” than from models on the runway. “You’re seeing fi rst time. The previous Pleasures print ads were Vitali has also held top beauty jobs at Noxell (now Procter & Gamble) them in their jeans, moccasin boots, the scarf. shot by Mario Testino. “Estée Lauder advertising and Revlon. They’re accessible, real trends that anyone can has always had a strong lifestyle positioning, and — Julie Naughton buy into and afford and interpret the look,” said Bruce has a great eye for lifestyle photography, StyleWatch editor Susan Kaufman. Nevertheless, especially outdoors,” said Aerin Lauder, senior consumers still named well-known celebrities vice president and creative director of the Estée Jennifer Aniston, Gwen Stefani, Eva Longoria Parker Lauder Cos. Inc. She created the campaign along BEAUTY BEAT and Jennifer Lopez as their top style icons. with Doug Lloyd of Lloyd and Co. — Pete Born The study also calculated that 25 million women have purchased a beauty or fashion DIFFERENT FACE: Bridget Hall has replaced Bar Refaeli Sephora Buys 45% Stake in Ile de Beauté product because they saw a celebrity wear or as the face of Marco Bicego’s spring ad campaign. PARIS — Sephora SA has acquired a 45 percent stake in Russian selective use it (although it clearly didn’t count each and “I was very happy with the last one, but it was time perfumery chain Ile de Beauté, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton- every one), and that trend is likely to continue for a change. [Refaeli] was great, but she was a owned retailer announced Friday. based on the reaction from several participants girl and Bridget is more of a woman,” said Bicego, As part of the deal, Sephora will have the option to become a majority in the study. Three twentysomething professional during the shoot in Chelsea last week. And, while shareholder in the chain “over time,” the company stated. Ile de Beauté women told the audience that the economic many brands are talking about marketing cutbacks will count about 100 doors by the end of the year. crisis is unlikely to affect their consumption of and placing ads more strategically, Bicego intends “This transaction will enable Sephora to become a major player in designer shoes, bags and makeup. “It should to spend at least as much as he did for the fall this high-growth market over the next few years,” the fi rm added. “Ile impact, but it doesn’t. I’m single, I have a secure campaign, and perhaps more, adding Internet de Beauté is one of the leading distributors of perfume and cosmetics in job, I don’t have kids,” said Jen Basel, 25. Good advertising for the fi rst time. The campaign will Russia. This move is fully aligned with Sephora’s international strategy news for fashion and luxury brands sweating the break in March fashion magazines, but the media to expand into markets with strong potential. Russia is a very high-growth downturn. — Stephanie D. Smith buy hasn’t been fi nalized. — Amy Wicks market for perfumes and cosmetics and has become one of the leading markets in Europe in this area.” Sephora already has a franchising deal in Russia with Alkor, which op- erates Sephora-branded doors there. That agreement will end in 2010. Ile Rampage in License Deal With ECI de Beauté stores are concentrated within large towns all over the Russian Federation, Sephora said. By Julee Kaplan Rampage will continue to be distributed — Brid Costello in department stores, including Macy’s and RAMPAGE, OWNED BY ICONIX BRAND Dillard’s, as well as a range of specialty stores. Group Inc., will have a new licensee beginning The Rampage brand has 15 licensees, produc- with the spring 2009 collection. ing sportswear, dresses, handbags, swimwear, Hurley Comes to Bloomingdale’s The company has entered into a licensing eyewear, fragrance and shoes. Cole said it is Elizabeth Hurley helped light up Bloomingdale’s 59th Street Thursday agreement with ECI, a New York-based sports- a growing business, bringing in $300 million evening, flipping an oversize light switch to turn on pink spotlights, which wear manufacturer and distributor. This will a year at retail. Now, he is concentrating on illuminated the store’s exterior. mark the end of an agreement between Iconix and growing the brand abroad, particularly in The actress and Estée Lauder spokesmodel was joined during the per- Los Angeles-based Larry Hansel Clothing LLC. China and the Middle East. sonal appearance by Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Hansel sold Rampage to Iconix in 2005 for a re- Hansel, meanwhile, launched a young con- Bloomingdale’s; Leonard Lauder, chairman of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and car- ported $45.9 million, consisting of $25.8 million in temporary brand, Golden State, in May. The toonist Marisa Acocella Marchetto on the Lexington Avenue side of the store. cash and $20.1 million in company stock. Hansel, line aims to bring a bit of bohemian-chic fash- The event was held to mark National Breast Cancer Awareness Month who founded Rampage 25 years ago, stayed with ion to the surf market and is aiming to hit $10 and a crowd estimated at more than 500 people spread to both sides of the company as designer and distributor. million in wholesale volume in the fi rst year. Lexington Avenue. With the lighting, a fi rst for the store, Bloomingdale’s “Our terms of the agreement we had with In addition, Hansel is creating Grass, a ju- became one of some 200 structures being illuminated by Lauder’s Breast Larry were over and we both decided it would nior sportswear, dress and jeans line for de- Cancer Awareness Campaign. be best to place Rampage with another li- partment stores. “I love it when October comes around every year because that’s the censee,” said Neil Cole, chairman and chief “Grass is a complete junior sportswear col- month we get to go around the world to tell women that breast cancer is executive offi cer of Iconix. “We were talking lection with a California casual feeling mixed 98 percent curable if it’s detected early,” said Hurley. with three companies and we thought ECI was in with some dressy clubwear,” he said. “That’s the closest thing we have to a cure,” Marchetto, a breast cancer a great company with great product.” Hansel also operates a dress business with survivor who wrote a best-selling graphic novel called “Cancer Vixen,” ECI, which also produces the Nicole by his Love Tease line for the young contempo- said of early detection. “And we’re not going to stop [awareness efforts] Nicole Miller brand for J.C. Penney Co. Inc., rary market and Roulette for misses’. until we have a world of pink, a world without breast cancer,” added will make its fi rst Rampage delivery to stores “Rampage is a great brand and I am sure it’s Marchetto, who is working on her third graphic novel, due out next year. in January. Hansel’s last Rampage delivery going to continue to do well,” Hansel said. “But I Hurley and Marchetto later signed beauty products from Lauder’s Pink will be in December. have a full plate right now, a lot to keep me busy.” Ribbon collection, a line whose sales are expected to generate $500,000 for the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. The two also autographed pink um- brellas and tote bags that were illustrated by Marchetto and are available at Bloomingdale’s. Since its inception in 1993, the BCRF, which was founded by Mrs. John L. Strong Gets New Partner Lauder’s senior corporate vice president Evelyn H. Lauder, has raised $220 million for breast cancer research and awareness through June. She noted MRS. JOHN L. STRONG, THE 80-YEAR-OLD founder and ceo R. Adam Smith. “Circle Peak that during the year ended in June, the foundation raised $39.6 million. luxury stationery brand, has a new partner to Capital is excited to be working alongside a “The purpose of the lightings is really to raise publicity for awareness fuel growth. motivated management team to realize this and remind women 40 years old and older that they should be having Circle Peak Capital, a New York private eq- brand’s full, long-term potential.” mammograms and [conducting] self examinations,” said Lauder. uity fi rm, has taken a minority interest in the Brown noted that Point One Percent, a brand- On Friday, Hurley took an outing to Saks Fifth Avenue in Short company, Nannette Brown, chief executive of- ing fi rm, made a small investment in the compa- Hills, N.J., where she appeared along with designer Jay Strongwater to fi cer and owner, disclosed last week. ny and will be helping to further the strategy. mark the launch of Lauder’s Pink Refl ections Duet, a $150 lipstick and “This has been a very society-driven, very Mrs. John L. Strong was founded in New Strongwater-designed mirror compact. The pair of items — a Saks ex- social company for many years,” said Brown. York City in 1929, and is known for hand-en- clusive — represents one of 15 Lauder brands showing off pink ribbons “In the past few years we have expanded the graved stationery for New York’s social set. this season. Lauder noted the BCRF is one of the charities benefi ted by offering to include diaries, notebooks, directo- World leaders, American presidents, royal events like Saks’ Key to the Cure women’s cancer campaign, for which ries. With our new partner, there will be a con- families and celebrities have all used Mrs. Karl Lagerfeld designed a T-shirt and Gwyneth Paltrow is spokeswom- tinuation of growth in that sector, and you will Strong’s papers. Brown acquired the firm an. There’s also a BCRF charity dinner later this month and sales of a see us roll out both stores and shop-in-shops.” about six years ago. Michael Kors tote bag; Karen Neuberger pajamas; a Lacoste tote, shorts “Mrs. John L. Strong represents a unique Circle Peak Capital’s investments includes and belt, and Ugg boots will also benefi t the organization. investment opportunity in a growing sector of and Luxury Optical Holdings Co. — Matthew W. Evans the luxury market,” said Circle Peak Capital — David Moin 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 Chanel Worlds Chanel

Set piece: The facade of 31 Rue Cambon at the Grand Palais.

Chanel: “Our house in the middle of our street,” the soundtrack repeated over and over. A humble abode it’s not. But then, modesty must be tough to summon when the maison in question is 31 Rue Cambon, a good bet to be the last bastion of Chanel luxury standing should the economy as we know it (or used to know it, two or three weeks ago) continues to implode around us. The house is so lovely, in fact, that Karl Lagerfeld apparently isn’t satisfi ed with just one, and so had its facade re-created inside the Grand Palais as the set for the glorious Chanel show he presented on Friday morning. That glory radiated in the admirable audacity of the faux Chanel Chanel Chanel limestone abode, in the event’s festive mood and most importantly, in its fabulous fashion. This was Lagerfeld at his savvy best, on one hand lavishing the clothes with ample decoration as if heralding that, tough times aside, his ladies have nothing to worry about, while on the other hand celebrating the dressed-up end of his Chanel range, no kooky kid stuff to confuse those ladies should they start to feel skittish. And he still infused the lineup with youthful charm, pinned largely on liberal doses of pink. Suits came in every conceivable variation: with jackets long and lean, full and swingy or cropped into tiny boleros. Dresses ranged from a classic shift to short, saucy knit numbers, and Lagerfeld gave a nod or two to the sportswear set with racy black pants looks. As for the tweeds du jour, they came both traditional and delightfully twisted, the latter in delicate woven tulle ribbon and squiggled with rubber. Evening arrived on a cloud of hazy blue chiffon here, a bower of silvery pink camellias there, their froth so carefree one might think Lagerfeld’s house immune from the woes of the world. Which, of course, it’s not. But it’s as close as it gets. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 9 WWD.COM

Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel and Alexander Alexander McQueen McQueen Alexander McQueen both created eye- catching sets. Lagerfeld chose the Rue Cambon facade for his dressed-up, real-clothes lineup, while McQueen had a veritable zoo observing his remarkable, Apart ecologically inspired prints.

PARIS Alexander McQueen: Darwin, Alexander McQueen was spring ’09 thinking as he set to work on his spring collection. He divided the show into two parts, pre- and post-machine worlds. The industrial revolution, he wrote in his program notes, was “when man became more powerful than nature, and the damage really started.” Rich material for so superb and emotional a showman. Yet here McQueen worked with unexpected restraint, relatively speaking, within a structure that proved a bit of a problem — the clothes were more beautiful in the beginning than in the end. He still pulled off a powerful show, certainly among the most intriguing in a lackluster season. McQueen created a stunning set, a huge projection of the rotating sun morphing into the moon and back behind what looked like a taxidermist’s dream theme park, a congregation of animals: zebra, polar bear, elephant, deer, assorted wild cats, birds and countless more frozen in apparent harmony, although, in reality, some would have made fi ne dining for others. Fashionwise, the shapes were variations on the designer’s classics, the conservationist point made primarily via genius prints. McQueen may have used this show to rage against machines, but these were engineered marvels that required a little technology to caress the girls’ bodies so ergonomically. They wore intricate wood grains, Victorian-inspired fl orals, blown-up diamonds, their facets ablaze with color. Then, along came the machine age, and things toughened up with coiled metal and Eiffel Tower prints. Either way, McQueen kept his tailoring on the staunch side and his dresses, mostly short and seriously sculpted or in billowing cocoons, like butterfl ies about to break free. The pre-industrial world also featured two beauties with fl ower blossoms trapped between layers of silk and tulle and breathtaking fringed fl appers; the post-, hourglasses heavily encrusted with crystals. And, despite the sober theme, the mood skirted obvious anger — McQueen took his bow in a rabbit suit. Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

McQueen’s runway, lined by taxidermied animals. Alexander McQueen takes his bow in a rabbit suit. PHOTOS BY DELPHINE ACHARD, STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI DELPHINE ACHARD, STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008

PARISspring ’09 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 11 WWD.COM C’est Formidable! Louis Vuitton: It’s not opinion but fact that Marc Asian infl uence, and more than a little African, but Jacobs is one of the world’s count-’em-on-one-hand always as Jacobs perceives their infl uence on the elite designers. Happily, in a season often more French psyche. “We didn’t look at a single specifi c ho-hum than perusing the better racks, he was in reference,” he said before the show. “It’s just what brilliant form with two dazzling collections, both we think of all this.” He added, “I really believe sprung from a single over-the-top exuberance. more is just right.” But he kept them very different, steeping each in Talk about stating the obvious. This was a the trappings of its own nativity, Marc Jacobs a collection of more, more, more. More feathers; wacky treatise on piled-on Americana, and Louis more fabric mixes; more bangle towers; more Vuitton, a glorious testament to the high style of the textures; more handbags; more bells, whistles and designer’s adopted city. “I love Paris!” Jacobs made beads on shoes, even more categories — hello, his gleeful mantra for the week, and its runway little LV undies peaking out from under naughty manifestation didn’t come a moment too soon. His skirts! And, by the way, more upbeat real clothes, fashion-weary (make that lack-of-fashion-weary) jackets, skirts, sweaters, jersey dresses, polkadotted audience left the tent in the Cour Carrée du Louvre pajama pants. Lest that fact be missed in a fl urry positively enthralled and in love with fashion all of feathers, Jacobs inserted a two-look palette over again. cleanser, pristine navy jacket over camel pants The collection was all about Jacobs’ view and camel jacket over navy shorts, to remind the of French chic, which meant Edith Piaf on the audience that his take on abundance was indeed soundtrack and, of course, a vibrant tribute to about more than showmanship. Economic woes? Yves Saint Laurent. (One astute attendee noted Jacobs espouses the view that fashion can offer that the golden bamboo backdrop looked like diversion, a reason to feel good. And these days, oversize Opium packaging.) There was a little who can’t use a little more of that? PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008

Hermès John Galliano John Galliano

John Galliano Naomi Campbell at Hermès.

Stephanie Seymour at Hermès.

Real clothes were on the agenda of a variety of houses and designers, who showed them in their own distinctive ways and for every hour of the day and night, from Jean Paul Gaultier’s cowboy-themed looks at Around the Clock Hermès to John Galliano’s embroidered evening gowns. Hermès: Get ready, city slickers — Jean Paul Gaultier’s dresses and gowns in colorful Mexican serape stripes. exactly the right moment to get real. Those elaborate taking you for a Wild West romp at Hermès this spring. But the collection had an elegant ease underscoring tableau vivants of late? Gone. So were the models- So saddle up and gather round all ye olde cowboy it all. Gaultier turned ponchos into belted blouselike turned-actresses, whom Galliano sent straight clichés, because with Gaultier there’s no place for tops and cut one chic shirtdress with a gentle fl yaway down the runway this time in clothes with genuine thematic subtlety. His runway stage was a giant sandy back. Jackets, meanwhile, draped languidly in the commercial appeal. desert complete with all sorts of cacti, and his fi rst two back like curtains. Even the more structured moments, Of course, in Galliano’s world even a reality check models out were Calamity Janes of the superstar sort, as in the stiffened croc blazers, felt chicly confi dent. is still pretty fantastic, which explains the giant Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell doing their As for the house’s cash cow — the accessories — the black marabou cap with a gold-chain chin strap that sexiest high-noon swagger. But here’s the delightful part: designer nicely delivered on jauntily tied neck scarves, disguised the fi rst look, a smart red jacket and simple Despite the costume potential, there was plenty of real, low-slung belts, slouchy boots and some fantastic retro- skirt, as a fetching British Royal Guard. Galliano wearable merch to love. (Not one crazy chap in sight.) looking suitcases — perfect for the jet-set frontier fi lly mined his own homeland security for a series of red The front-and-center motif here was fringe, served on the go. and black sporty separates, such as anoraks done up straight-up cowpoke style, trimming everything from in undone military details, which morphed into frillier suede vests and bikini wraps to slouchy jackets and John Galliano: After three straight seasons of spectacular fare. Again, don’t be fooled by the fl amboyant head and bags. There was denim, natch, and a slew of trenches, spectacle and great clothes, John Galliano chose footgear. Underneath the clown-hair cloches, pirate WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 13 WWD.COM

Valentino Chloé

Valentino Chloé

PARISspring ’09 PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

hats, French poodle poufs and laced-up patent mary start last fall. But between her debut couture collection Chloé: Two years and one dismissed designer after janes perched on vertiginous platforms were fabulous in July and now spring, Facchinetti showed real Phoebe Philo’s departure, Chloé has yet to recapture clothes to wear. promise, maintaining the house’s signature femininity her energy. Enter Hannah MacGibbon, Philo’s former Galliano worked fl imsy silk dresses, some gently and penchant for decoration while clearly seeking a assistant and the house’s original choice to replace her, draped or ruffl ed and topped with a jacket, in hot younger audience. who is now subject to great expectations, particularly pink and bright orange, and from there moved on to Her fi nale collection was full of such styles, starting in this less-than-balmy economic climate. MacGibbon painterly pastels. Gauzy, sheer chiffon was printed with the fi rst look: a polkadot shift with sheer black certainly didn’t shy away from the task, but approached with Impressionist fl orals and whipped up into sweet- sleeves and a collar traced in a load of braided it with a fun, upbeat and Seventies-Eighties attitude nothing dresses full of his signatures. Some were embellishment. It was pretty and polished with a that shone through in the clothes. She honed in on delicately bias cut; others sported drop waists or cowls youthful ease, made more so via sporty details, such Chloé’s signature girlish naïveté in daywear done up at the shoulder blades for a Twenties-Thirties feel. The as shirttail hems on dresses and shorts and bedazzled with scalloped details, sweetheart necks, bows and see-through fabrics and fl uttery ruffl es continued into glovelets. The same could be said of the silk military broderie anglaise. It was sweet on apron dresses and wistful eveningwear, all fl oor-sweeping silks, such as jackets worn with snappy shorts, a silhouette that crisscross ruffle tops, but MacGibbon tempered it with a terrifi c, transparent embroidered blue tulle gown. If was worked in various versions, whether plain or tailoring and sportif, which worked well together on a things got any lighter, they would have fl oated away. cinched with an elaborate sparkle-encrusted belt. And green camper top and scalloped-lapel blazer. Bronze evening — in particular, a black embroidered halter lamé added a little sizzle to the girly fare. Valentino: Rumors had been swirling around Valentino on top and a fi lmy powder blue chiffon skirt below — Still, it came with a few problems, mainly a all week, and it turns out they weren’t just grist for the had glamour sans fuss. Several gowns were simple, in mundane palette and some cumbersome cuts. Paper- mill. After two seasons, Alessandra Facchinetti is out, unadorned silks and worn with fl ats. It wasn’t perfect bag shapes that bunched and scrunched at the waist and the house’s longtime accessories designers Maria — some seriously overdone epaulets got in the way and hips did nothing for the reedy models, and they Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are in. Which is of otherwise chic styles — but everything was well won’t fare well in the real world. What the collection too bad, because as Val’s first successor, Facchinetti executed. It looked like Facchinetti knew what she lacked was a little fi nesse, which MacGibbon should has been a pleasant surprise. Sure, she got off to a safe was doing. fi nd once she settles in. 14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 The Fold Standard Kenzo Limi Feu Elie Saab

Kenzo

Limi Feu

Kenzo: Using “Alice in Wonderland” as musing on mankind. Yamamoto worked a a starting point — more of a romantic schoolgirl-uniform aesthetic, and some schoolboy, stroll through Wonderland’s flower too, with the opening looks that followed a strict garden than a surrealist Mad Hatter black blazer-white shirt-black trousers formula. PARIS affair — Antonio Marras delivered The girlish moments highlighted tiered pleated a pretty collection of layered chiffon skirts, a rather chic lantern-sleeve jacket and the spring ’09 and puffball dresses doused in dusty finale suspender hoop skirts — all of which were floral prints, some inspired by Japanese rendered with a punkish undercurrent: Yamamoto’s blooms, others patterned with more exotic girl is the behind-the-bleachers teen, with her foliage in browns and mossy greens. Marras shirt hanging out and arms covered in tats. And, fused soft origami forms with shapes inspired as is the family wont, everything came intriguingly by early 20th-century frocks. These came in dense, oversized, slouchy and wonderfully asymmetrical: embroidered fabrics brimming with butterflies, hems or big pockets falling languidly to one side, crystals, sequins, metallic threads and even shells. for instance. They might be the Yohji-isms with And his beautiful flowered, crocheted mohair which we’re already familiar, but this Yamamoto is dresses had an organic, fairy-tale feel. pushing her own course delightfully forward.

Limi Feu: Limi Yamamoto held her Limi Feu show Elie Saab: Scaling back the ornate decorative effects at the Musée de l’Homme, and guests had to on his collection of flowing dresses, slinky knits walk through an exhibition showcasing the early and sheer gowns showed Elie Saab in fine form. evolution of man to get to her catwalk. But the Not that the Beirut designer totally ignored the collection she showed was not some highbrow sparkling embroidery he loves. But this season, WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 15 WWD.COM

more from the shows... ▲ Designers meticulously draped Jean- Charles and folded to create striking de looks that were origami-inspired, Castelbajac fl owerlike or asymmetric.

For more, see WWD.com.

Vanessa Bruno Commuun

Collette Dinnigan Wunderkind Requiem

agnès b.: Treading familiar ground, Agnès Trouble served up Mod-style, color-blocked dresses with deep pockets; Op Art looks, and tempered rock ’n’ roll staples (namely, her beloved black leather pants), shown on models whizzing around the runway on the brand’s new foldable bike.

Collette Dinnigan: Forgoing her usual light and lacy looks, Collette Dinnigan created a disparate lineup focused on body-hugging dresses done up with studs, chain mail- effect sequins and zigzagging strokes of glitter.

Wunderkind: With a goofy mix of checks, fl owers and dots, designer Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind label offered fl uid, military-inspired tailoring; colorful tops, and sheer dresses, including one that looked as if it were made of lace doilies. Martin Grant Requiem: Channeling a neo-Valentino couture vibe, Requiem’s Julien Desselle and Raffaele Borriello offered variations on gently cocoon-shaped, mainly black-and- agnès b. white cocktail ensembles — some sporting oversize bows and wayward ruffl es — that targeted a younger, new-money clientele.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac: Barack Obama has received yet more fashion support, this time from Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, whose sporty sequin dress, splashed with a print showing the presidential candidate, roused cheers, in amongst plastic-coated houndstooth pants, Lego-print sundresses and Mickey Mouse stilettos.

Vanessa Bruno: Vanessa Bruno’s breezy gal-about-town showed her sassier side for spring, donning high-slit, spaghetti-strap silk robes with origami cutout details and sheer, black lingerie-inspired looks, such as her cropped chiffon and metallic jacket edged with ruffl es.

Martin Grant: In a serene mood, Martin Grant focused on long and slim or tulip-shaped halterneck creations, some tricked up with origami folds at the pocket or asymmetric draping at the hip.

Commuun: Reinforcing their meticulous design approach, rooted in minimalism, young designers Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate offered gentle tweaks of silhouettes past, in Rue du Mail dresses with sloping Eighties shoulders and strapless white minis veiled in asymmetric PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, FRANCOIS GOIZE AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIANNONI, FRANCOIS GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY swathes of dégradé chiffon.

flowerlike folds on a hem and gracefully draped silk gowns offered greater restraint, proving that Saab can diversify his style while staying true to Glamour Puffs his ultraglamorous aesthetic. It was a welcome

move forward. ▲ Moncler Gamme Rouge: If Marie Antoinette needed a closetful of puffers, Rue du Mail: Martine Sitbon, known for tempering Moncler Gamme Rouge would be a cool rock aesthetic with a Parisian edge, this her go-to. Giambattista Valli’s second season attempted to turn the energy up a notch effort for the Italian-owned outerwear for her Rue du Mail label by concentrating label was full of what must be the most on complicated decorative effects. Folding, glamorous down jackets going. All done geometry and deconstruction were among her in powdery pale pink and ivory, they gambits. They played out in intricately crafted came plisséd and poufed into egg-shaped dresses of asymmetrical folds, jackets with cocoon coats, nip-waist coatdresses and detailed geometric motifs and dresses with cutout trapeze capes. Fabrics such as silk gazar, patterns that resembled a Cubist composition organdy and jacquard were worked by Georges Braque. Many of Sitbon’s ideas were with a bit of nylon for what Valli called nice. Futuristic shimmering fabrics, skirts with “a balance between high tech and high modernistic ruffles and a leather jacket with a fashion.” Fancy? For sure. Particularly folded-back sleeve added a bit of artsy glamour. when it came to the bejeweled Two years after making a comeback with Rue du embroideries and zip-up bustier styles Mail, Sitbon continues to fine-tune her look. that were more silly than sporty. 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 FASHION SCOOPS BEAR NECESSITIES: Never mind the credit crunch: A 1,000 euro, or $1,400 Kate Bosworth and Karl Lagerfeld at current exchange rates, Karl Lagerfeld teddy bear by German maker Steiff Kirsten Dunst found willing buyers during its unveiling at Colette on Friday. “I bought two, ssssh,” whispered Camille McMillan, a Los Angeles-based design student, who got one of the bears signed by the man himself. “When I saw it I thought that’s the best Christmas present in the world,” said Gareth Pugh, though he won’t be indulging that whim. “Are you kidding us? Do you know how much they are?” he exclaimed while snapping a fl ock of eager Lagerfeld fans for his blog on Style.com. Lagerfeld, meanwhile, departed with number one of the 2,500 numbered bears, which wear his “uniform” jeans, jacket and tie from the K Karl Lagerfeld collection and his signature black shades from his eyewear line.

THE HOARSE WHISPERER: “I said blah blah blah,” explained Gareth Pugh, following his inaudible ANDAM awards acceptance speech at the Chacha club Friday night, hampered by a kaput microphone. So what are his collection’s bestsellers? “I’m not sure, I’ll have to do a pie chart,” mused Pugh, who’d dressed his entourage — including Dazed & Confused’s Katie BLONDE AMBITION: Kirsten Dunst walked into Sunday night’s Shillingford — in his latest creations. Onlooker Henry Holland, whose new Miu Miu show to encounter a giant, Warhol-esque image of fashion TV show “Frock Me” launched Sunday on Britain’s Channel 4, herself from last year’s campaign on the wall smack in front said his greatest achievement of late has been a packaging design for the of her seat. Might she pose for the Italian brand again? “Can chewing gum brand Extra. “It has monochrome lettering with spots. It’s very you do two?” asked the actress, who is currently doing a on trend,” he boasted. documentary about American elections and launched into an explanation of how voting on Tuesdays dates back to agrarian Eva Amurri Synchronized swimmers. IN THE SWIM: Jean Paul Gaultier, who had sand and cacti times. Kate Bosworth, meanwhile, said she’s planning to direct at Louis on the runway for his latest collection for Hermès on a fi lm set in Tokyo called “Lost Girls and Love Hotels” based Vuitton. Saturday, fi nished off his day with a wet and wild launch on a book she optioned a few years ago. “We just fi nished party for the Evian bottle he designed. “Do you have your writing the script,” she said. Bosworth, in town with her bikini on?” the designer asked as guests fi led in to the boyfriend James Rousseau, took in the Jeff Koons exhibition at Pontoise pool, escorted to fi tting cabins by muscle boys in Versailles — and was dazzled. striped tank tops. While models in mermaid-style Gaultier “It strangely worked. It gave it a whole new dimension,” couture languished on the diving board, a frisky troupe of she enthused. synchronized swimmers churned out an array of impressive patterns, including the JPG logo. ENERGY PILL: Guests at the Louis Vuitton show Sunday rallied around to offer pick-me-up tips for tired fashion folk. “David WHAT’S IN STORE: Model-cum-actress-cum-designer Lou Kirsch’s vitamin supplement packs are the best. I love the Thermo Doillon is turning shopkeeper. Doillon revealed she’s Bubbles one with natural green tea,” said Kerry Washington. scouting a location in Paris to open a concept store as Meanwhile, a preppy Antoine Arnault was sandwiched between early as next year. “We’ll have a mix of fashion, literature, Kerry a tank-topped and tattooed Lenny Kravitz and hirsute French Kerry modern and old, with more of an English than French Washington rocker Sebastien Tellier, who offered less conventional remedies. Washington infl uence, and not conventional,” she said at John Galliano’s at Louis “Lots of bananas — and ice skating is always a good way to at Louis show Saturday night. As for British model and reality TV Vuitton. revive the spirits,” said Tellier, who is recording his next album. Vuitton. star Katie Price, aka Jordan, she’s about to launch a “very Susan Sarandon’s daughter, Eva Amurri, had her hair swept in colorful and different” fashion collection next year as a a sophisticated quiff. The actress is next shooting alongside follow-up to her equestrian clothing line. “We’re doing Josh Lucas in a dark comedy about a family-run pharmaceutical world domination, the pair of us,” she said referring to her company. First up, though, is a family affair. “My dad [Franco husband, singer Peter Andre, who sported Galliano’s men’s Amurri] turns 50 next week so we’re having a big party. My mom’s wear. “It always looks good on a chest,” he said. organizing it, but she has so many things to do so I’m helping,” she said. French actress Hélène de Fougerolles, meanwhile, has a HOUSE CALL: Laetitia Casta, Naomi Campbell and Emmanuelle trio of movies out by the end of this year, including “Mutants,” a Lou Doillon Seigner joined David Lauren and French Vogue’s Carine horror movie. The actress has also turned author, having penned Roitfeld at a Left Bank mansion Friday night to fete the a children’s book for her fi ve-year-old daughter. Donna Summers’ opening of Ralph Lauren’s new Avenue Montaigne boutique. daughter, Amanda Sudano, said she was taking time out from Looking very much a femme fatale, Casta came directly recording her new album, “5-8.” “I’m looking forward to doing from the Théâtre de la Madeleine where she’s performing some sightseeing and this is a good way of spotting outfi ts for my in the latest play by renowned French playwright Florian concerts,” she said, adding that she’s in talks to be featured in a Zeller, “Elle t’attend” (“She’s Waiting for You”). “I play few undisclosed Spanish brands’ campaigns. a woman who goes crazy in love,” said the actress, who’s Christiana the face of Ralph Lauren’s latest fragrance, Notorious. “It’s MONKEY BUSINESS: For A Bathing Ape’s Nigo, who was in Paris Reali like Versailles,” cooed Anouck Lepère, who recalled walking especially for Colette’s party in honor of architect Masamichi a show in the venue when it was home to Karl Lagerfeld. Katayama on Saturday, the scene at his and Katayama’s double “I stayed here with Karl years and years ago,” reminisced book signing that morning was totally unexpected. “I was Lenny Kravitz. Party talk turned to the value of the building, surprised that so many people came. In Hong Kong you can with estimates ranging up to a whopping 100 million euros, expect 2,000 kids, but I had no idea there would be that kind or $138 million. “So did Ralph buy this furnished?” asked of reaction in Paris,” said the designer, who was dressed in Milla Jovovich as she surveyed the ornate surroundings. shirt, jacket, cap, belt and jeans all of his own design, with David Lauren certainly wishes the designer had snapped an Hermès tie and bespoke shoes. Then he mused about what it up. “I live here,” he joked, adding: “That sofa pulls out he would likely spin as one of the guest DJs at the after party and it’s my bed. I’m just waiting for everyone to clear out.” at Regine’s: “I’ll probably go for hip-hop,” he said just before Roitfeld and Mario Testino led the charge to the dance fl oor, the party, attended by the likes of Thom Browne, Victoire de where Seigner grooved in a one-shouldered tartan Lauren Castellane and pastry chef Pierre Hermé. dress and Angela Lindvall sparkled in a silver number.

DIRECTOR’S CUT: Brazilian actress Cristiana Réali was among guests at Sunday’s Lanvin show. She’s about to start a run of Laetitia Casta, David Lauren the play “Good Canary” in Paris, directed by John Malkovich. and Carine Roitfeld. “We are going to take it around France,” she said, adding that she and Malkovich enjoyed working together and could possibly collaborate on the stage again. “He wants to do ‘Dangerous Liaisons’ next.”

FLIGHT PLAN: Jessica Stam is getting familiar with another kind of runway — and is winging her way to becoming a pilot. The Canadian model is working on getting a license and has already clocked a few hours in the cockpit. “It’s something I’ve always wanted to try,” she said backstage at John Galliano Saturday. “Being above everything gives you a natural high — a body rush.”

DOUBLE TROUBLE: Collaborations were a running theme at Alexander McQueen’s show Friday night. Prima ballerina Sylvie Guillem said she would be performing in a contemporary production of “Eonnagata” at Sadler’s Wells in London. “McQueen has designed the costumes and I have been working with the choreographer Robert Lepage and Russell Maliphant,” she said. Elsewhere, Naomi Campbell and Farida Khelfa were chatting away — perhaps discussing their latest fi lm venture. “I have just fi nished the French fi lm ‘Barbe Bleu’ or ‘Blue Beard’ Farida Khelfa and with director Catherine Breillat and will start fi lming ‘Bad Love’ Naomi Campbell

with Naomi Campbell next year,” said Khelfa. STEPHANE FEUGERE, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND THIERRY CHOMEL PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 17 WWD.COM Accessories Duo Takes Reins at Valentino Continued from page one Facchinetti clearly was caught off guard by her dismissal, despite the rumors. She Alessandra Facchinetti takes said she learned with “deep regret from the press” that she would no longer be work- her fi nal bow at Valentino. ing for Valentino. “This news came as a great surprise since the company’s top management has not yet seen fi t to inform me of the above,” she said in a statement dripping with sarcasm. “ I would like to thank Valentino SpA for showing their appreciation of my ‘creative contribution and my sophisticated talent,’ although I deeply regret the fact that this talent and contribution do not seem to have been adequately acknowledged.” She also criticized the fact that a brand “the calibre of Valentino, which has made history in the world of fashion, has been the subject of rumors for the past two weeks.” Despite all this, Facchinetti feels the experience “has empowered me because I know that my work has been deeply appreciated throughout the world.” According to sources familiar with the situation, it wasn’t Facchinetti’s clothes that lead to the rupture, but her inability to build a strong, cohesive team. In addi- tion, her hesitancy and inability to make decisions ultimately crippled the production process. One source close to the company said the fi rm felt it did as much as it could to support what ultimately was too diffi cult and drawn-out a creative process. Now it’s the turn of Chiuri and Piccioli, who told WWD in an exclusive interview that they plan to capitalize on the decade spent working elbow-to-elbow with Valentino him- self to ferry the house into the future while remaining anchored to its history and DNA. “We were hoping for it and I think it was a way for Stefano Sassi [Valentino’s chair- man and chief executive] to express his appreciation of our work and his faith,” said Piccioli, echoing Chiuri’s sentiments. And their appointment received a thumbs-up from two longtime supporters: Valentino and longtime partner Giancarlo Giammetti. While both had been notice- ably silent about Facchinetti’s tenure at the brand, they immediately praised the appointment of Chiuri and Piccioli. “They are two serious capable professionals that I had alongside me for many years. They always demonstrated an enormous respect and love for my work,” said Valentino. “There is an existing archive with thousands of dresses where they can draw and take inspiration from to create a Valentino product that is relevant today,” said the house’s founder, who then took a shot at Facchinetti by adding, “It is a shame their predecessor didn’t feel the need.” PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli [Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo“ Piccioli] always demonstrated an enormous respect and love for my work. ” — Valentino It is known Valentino personally wooed them from Fendi and gave them carte blanche to develop their collection based on his briefi ngs for each season. Their modern and stark white studio in Valentino’s Rome headquarters is markedly different from the antique-fi lled of- fi ce that belonged fi rst to Valentino and then Facchinetti. But while they kept a relatively low profile during Valentino’s tenure, things changed following the designer’s exit last September — again, only after months of speculation as to whether he was going to retire. When Facchinetti was at last named creative director of rtw, Chiuri and Piccioli were assigned the same title for accessories, a move aimed at rais- ing their profi les and creative roles. Possessing easy, down-to-earth personalities, they both jug- gle jam-packed work schedules and tend to the needs of their respective families and young children. Chiuri and Piccioli met at Fendi, where they worked for 10 years and are credited with having invented the Baguette bag. Their designs can be highly experimental, and they have gone to great lengths to transpose intricate concepts such as weaving silk georgette into a bag similarly to how it’s treated PHOTO COURTESY OF VALENTINO/CLAYMORE PHOTO COURTESY in the couture atelier. They are also fi rm believers in Italian Giammetti called their appointment a “wise decision. To pretend to transform and craftsmanship, scouring Italy for luxe materials and hardware. revolutionize the Valentino style is a utopia which is a loss from the start.” Their vision of slow-but-steady growth for the brand in accessories has led to revenues He noted Valentino’s style should be taken forward, with necessary updating, by of 50 million euros, or $69.1 million at current exchange, which accounts for 30 percent of those who love it, respect it and above all know it perfectly. “Pier Paolo and Maria Valentino’s revenues. Sassi said in May that his aim is to triple accessories sales over the Grazia are company-oriented people and it is right to give them a chance to bring next fi ve years. Leather accessories advanced 50 percent in wholesale this year and in forward a style, which alongside Valentino, they have developed,” he said. September the house launched Valentino Timeless luxury watches with Timex. Seemingly undaunted by the fact they’re not clothing designers, Piccioli and Chiuri The duo’s latest undertaking is called Shopping Couture and revolves around one said they believe in establishing a strong company vision and utilizing the existing tal- model — a tote served up in 10 variations that will hit stores next month. ent at the house. Facchinetti, the daughter of Pooh band member Roberto Facchinetti, graduated from “We believe in teamwork and we think there’s a great and effi cient company sup- Milan’s Istituto Marangoni fashion school and joined Prada as an assistant in 1995. She porting us that needs leadership,” said Piccioli. quickly climbed the ladder to become coordinator for women’s and men’s at Miu Miu. “We want everyone to work well and happily because ultimately this refl ects on the She then moved to Gucci, where she worked under Tom Ford and, in March 2004, product,” added Chiuri. PPR tapped her to succeed Ford for Gucci’s rtw where she showed her fi rst collec- Chiuri and Piccioli are the second accessories designers in recent years to assume tion in the fall of that year. total responsibility for a major Italian brand. Their course mirrors that of Frida Giannini, Facchinetti resigned in March 2005, two weeks after her second show, and was who went from accessories director to creative director for all Gucci categories in March replaced by Giannini. 2005, following Facchinetti’s resignation as that brand’s women’s wear designer. In 2006, she took on her fi rst project since Gucci as a consultant for Moncler’s Chiuri and Piccioli cited Valentino’s solid structure and skilled workers, including high-end Gamme Rouge line and in September 2007 was appointed creative director the “premieres” in the atelier, as vitally important in their new roles. “Everyone was for Valentino’s women’s collections, including couture, rtw and the Red and Roma always so surprised by the fact that we know the archives even better than Valentino secondary lines. himself,” Chiuri said. “We are extremely familiar with this house and very close to it.” She showed her fi rst rtw collection in February that was younger, fresher and bet- Their fi rst offi cial outing will be in January with the couture collection, but retail- ter edited but lacked a cohesive and long-term vision for the house. Her initial foray ers will get a preview in November when pre-collections season kicks off. into couture in July garnered positive reviews as the designer relied heavily on the Chiuri and Piccioli, who feel they’ve succeeded in transposing iconic Valentino skilled and experienced seamstresses in the atelier to create her 38 looks. elements into the brand’s shoes and bags, are much liked within the company. In the At the time, Facchinetti said her goal was to attract younger customers and return years forging the template for Valentino’s accessories, Chiuri and Piccioli infused to the roots and heart of couture by focusing on shape and workmanship. iconic couture elements such as ribbons, fl owers, lace, tulle and embroideries into On the runway that meant many suits and dresses touched up with gentle ruffl es, their bags and shoes. tiers, embroideries and lots of back action. 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 MARVIN TRAUB

For Marvin Traub, the former Bloomingdale’s WWD: How do you wind down, if ever? chairman and chief executive turned M.T.: I get great pleasure with my family. I golf. I like theater. I consultant-deal-maker, traveling to places like travel. There are many different things that give Q& like Paris, Dubai and Mumbai, India — me pleasure and relaxation. I played golf today and among his favorite cities outside New York then I did some work to get ready for a reception at — is like commuting. He logged 210,000 air the American Embassy in Paris. The ambassador is hosting a miles last year visiting 14 countries. party for the book [see coverage, at left]. A At 83, Traub maintains a schedule as rigorous as anyone half his age, defi es the notion that WWD: You are in the business of buying and selling companies. aging means losing touch and embodies the spirit of globalization Some people call this fl ipping. Is that healthy for a brand? with his fl urry of recent cross-border licensing and retail projects. He’s M.T.: When we invest in companies it is to help build the driven by a love of travel, curiosity and fueled by fashion’s wheeling brand. We don’t buy them 100 percent. We are only interested and dealing — not to mention the limelight that can go with it. where we think we can represent added value. It’s not purely Traub recently helped bring Harvey Nichols and a fi nancial transaction. If you look at Matthew Williamson, Bloomingdale’s to Dubai by linking them with Al Tayer Group, the it’s a wonderful business outside the U.S. I put together an Middle East luxury retail operator he represents. He also advised organization for the U.S. We’re working with them on developing Marvin Traub Kira Plastinina, the teenage Russian designer, on expanding an accessory business. A store in the Meatpacking District will and Ines de la into the U.S.; is assisting with planning India’s fi rst retail luxury open in January. With Rachel Roy, it made good sense for us Fressange. center, and working to bring a large upscale store to Bucharest, to sell the business to Jones and keep an ownership [stake] for PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY Romania, possibly Saks Fifth Avenue or Harvey Nichols. Rachel, investors and ourselves. Jones has the ability to fund the This year he helped establish a fund for investing, called business so it can grow. Jones is in shoes and jewelry so they can TSM Capital, which has stakes in Ellen Tracy, Rachel Roy and be the licensee. Over time we can develop additional collections. Matthew Williamson. “We’re in the process of raising a larger fund for investments in special situations. With the current WWD: It’s interesting that in the book you said Bloomingdale’s economy, we believe there will be opportunities to acquire Dubai has been your most fulfi lling project since leaving the store. Hot Shot companies that can be turned You felt you came full circle. APPLAUDED BY A GROUP OF AMERICAN AND around,” Traub said. M.T.: I always felt passionately French retailers, Marvin Traub, the former chair- With this whirl of activity, about Bloomingdale’s. I’m very man of Bloomingdale’s, launched his Assouline book, it was a little surprising to If you get pleasure at what you proud of what I accomplished “Like No Other Career,” discover the always-on-the-go “ there. Mike Gould [Traub’s at the American Embassy Traub at home in Connecticut, are doing, and are surrounded by successor] has really helped in Paris Thursday night. watching the Mets lose and move it further along. The After being intro- miss the playoffs. He’s got a talented staff of young people, ability to be part of creating duced by ambassador to see the outcome before the fi rst Bloomingdale’s Craig Stapleton, Traub discussing his latest project, his that helps supply the energy. outside the U.S. — it’s also contrasted the condi- second book entitled “Like No — Marvin” Traub the largest store in the Middle tions of his fi rst visit to Other Career” (Assouline). It’s a East and it’s in [what will be] France with the magna- coffee table-like synopsis of Traub’s second career, summarizing the world’s largest mall — is an enormously exciting project. nimity of the embassy re- his successful projects, and just as interesting, a few that fell ception, attended by the through, like his association with Mohan Murjani to open Tommy WWD: What about another Bloomingdale’s outside the U.S? likes of former French Hilfi ger shops and other brands in India. They parted ways over M.T.: We have to open the fi rst one and make it work and see prime minister Edith differences in the approach. He also writes that in 1989 he where we can go from there. Cresson, Jean Bousquet passed on a plan to buy Bloomingdale’s with Donald Trump. of Cacharel, Philippe There’s a section of 30 sketches from designers and WWD: Discuss some projects you are working on. Houze of Galeries accompanying testimonials from Traub’s farewell to M.T.: The signing of the Bloomingdale’s deal was the beginning of Lafayette, Harrods’ Bloomingdale’s party in Paris in 1991. He served as ceo for 13 one. Now we have a team planning and putting the store together. Michael Ward, Saks Fifth years and president for nine. There are also photos of colleagues, I have worked with the Al Tayer Group for the past fi ve years and Avenue chief Stephen I. celebrities, designers, retailers, family and, of course, the parties have helped them plan stores in Dubai, which is enormously Sadove and Jim Gold of Craig Stapleton he’s hosted and those thrown for him. — David Moin successful. Since April, we have opened 12 Kira Plastinina stores, Bergdorf Goodman. [in the U.S.] and we have in a very short period put together Traub recalled land- WWD: Why did you decide to write a second book? an organization running the stores. We will be launching a Kira ing at Utah Beach in Marvin Traub: I was approached by Assouline to do the book. Plastinina apparel collection at higher price points, moving into 1944 and later being That’s why it begins in Paris with Prosper Assouline, having lunch the contemporary area. We will launch with a major retailer. shot in the leg at Metz at the Ritz. I feel very strongly about the opportunity for people We think the Ellen Tracy collection just shown for spring is by a German sniper. He to have second and third careers. I wanted to encourage people the beginning of building the business. The clothes are very explained the mayor of to do things after retiring from their primary careers. When I left wearable and we feel the colors are great. There’s a feeling of Metz discovered some Federated [now called Macy’s Inc.] I wasn’t sure exactly what to what made Ellen Tracy strong in the past. years ago that he’d been do. But I knew I wanted to be active. Many people wanted me We are doing a major project developing an upscale shopping shot in the town and to work as a consultant. I left Federated having four consulting center in the Dominican Republic, with a local developer, Luis invited Traub to visit. clients and business built from there. Then I wanted to share this Emilio Velutini, really in partnership with a group that includes “The mayor said he was great art done by Carla Fendi, Yves Saint Laurent, Moschino and Oscar de a Renta and Julio Iglesias, in Punta Cana. honored to discover I’d many European designers I received when I left Bloomingdale’s been shot in Metz,” said and Jean-Louis Dumas of Hermès and the designers threw a WWD: What areas of the world are ripe for retail growth? Traub, who visited the farewell party for me at the Crillon. I also wanted to be rather M.T.: In the next decade the fastest part of retailing will be exact spot of his misfor- specifi c on the things that I was doing [in his second career]. in the emerging markets, such as the Middle East, Moscow, Barbara tune. The mayor decorat- India, China and Brazil. That’s where a lot of our projects are Bush and ed Traub for his valor. WWD: You’re known for your boundless energy, sleeping fi ve focused — the BRIC countries. Eastern Europe, where the Wendy Reyes, “There was nothing hours a night. How do you do it? countries are beginning to join the European Union, is another Stapleton’s I would rather do than M.T.: Actually, I sleep fi ve to six hours a night. I enjoy area that has future growth. daughter, launch [the book] in the enormously what I do. If you get pleasure at what you are doing, with Reyes’ American embassy [in and are surrounded by a talented staff of young people, that WWD: How are you feeling these days? daughters, Paris],” said Traub. helps supply the energy. I like to think I push the young people M.T.: I feel great. I have a trainer who comes to the apartment at Loulie and Mia. — Robert Murphy when I travel or anything else. 6:15 a couple of mornings each week and on weekends I play golf.

The online archive will be continuously updated, and viewers can zoom in on many of the pieces. It serves as more than just an online Costume Institute Database Goes Online catalogue. During the Costume Institute’s recent “blog.mode: addressing fashion” exhibit, the curators learned it has an engaged audience beyond By Marc Karimzadeh the New York metropolitan area, with e-mails coming in from Eastern Europe and Asia. NEW YORK — For the first time, nearly all of the Costume Institute’s large collection Not every documented piece is accompanied by an image, and the of clothing has been translated into an online database. Costume Institute continues to photograph items and update their infor- The project was started in 2000, and since then the department of the mation. Koda said that, in the same vein as “blog.mode,” the Costume Metropolitan Museum of Art has worked on formatting and digitizing informa- Institute also hopes to gather more information on pieces in its collec- tion on 29,432 objects from the 31,000-piece collection. It is available to view tion, as well as corrections, where appropriate. through the museum’s Web site under Collection Database at metmuseum. Asked about the process, Koda said: “You had to transfer all of the org/works_of_art/the_costume_institute. The move is part of the museum’s information from different record systems. Some were fi les, some were initiative to showcase its entire holdings online. cards, but through the years, there was a great deal of inconsistency. “We’re involved in working with the collection to prepare for a re- “Some of the things we learned were completely unexpected,” he housing of it,” said Harold Koda, curator in charge of the Costume added. “One of the things we found out was that we had some very Institute. “We have grown so much and would like to house everything early Vionnets that were never classifi ed as Vionnets because who- properly, and in conjunction with that, we started to document things ever catalogued it originally in the Fifties or Sixties just happened that hadn’t been reviewed since they fi rst came in in the Forties. to miss the label.” Once we got the information together, we thought it would be ideal The project was made possible in part by the The John if the general public could log in and, for instance, fi nd all of our Christian Dior’s fall-winter and Annamaria Phillips Foundation, Jane Hays Butler, Christian Diors.” 1949-50 Junon dress. Paul D. Schurgot Foundation and an anonymous donor. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 19 WWD.COM Saucy colorblocking at Pierre Hardy. Tom Binns’ futuristic notions.

Collared and cuffed by Erickson Beamon for Atelier Swarovski.

Corto Moltedo takes a bow.

Longchamp makes a statement. Jonathan Kelsey gives Bowed a little twist. over at Alexis Mabille.

In full bloom at Daniel Swarovski.

Christian Louboutin on the fringe.

A clutch play at Mulberry. Paris Fancies In France, opulence is welcomed — ▼ Bruno Frisoni gets his stripes. maybe even expected. The same can be said for the accessories shown this season, which designers were defi nitely not afraid to adorn with more than a few treatments. — Shoshanna Fischhoff

A sequined affair at Roger Vivier. Simple or splattered at VBH.

PARISspring ’09 PHOTOS BY THIERRY CHOMEL AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY 20 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 WWD.COM Accessories Report Mipel Vendors Plan for Tough Year Ahead By Luisa Zargani Shenyang by year’s end. “We plan to count 15 stores in China in the next three MILAN — Soft handbags in strong vivid colors and vo- years,” said Briccola, who is also planning openings luminous shapes, often embellished with shiny de- in the Middle East — Saudi Arabia, Qatar and Dubai tails, were some of the key trends at Milan’s four-day — next year. In tune with a trend at Mipel, Bric’s intro- leather goods exhibition Mipel. duced its Gold collection, in soft calf with a golden hue. Roberto Ricci, who researches trends for AIMPES, David McMillan, creative director at David & Scotti, Italy’s leather goods association, said for spring-sum- said he was “nervous about this season” because “re- mer 2009, “chromatically, we can talk about color tailers want to see things earlier, but pass orders later.” Michael Cohen block and harmony obtained by assembling But McMillan said he was pleased with business, various colors corresponding to different singling out Germany and Spain as showing brisk parts of the bag.” sales. It will take two more years “for the psycho- Bags are adorned with woven strips of logical need to be careful with money to go ▲ A bag from diverse materials, fringes and wooden de- away,” according to McMillan. Michael Stars. tails. Reptile skins often feature a shiny Like many of his peers, the designer is patina and colors generally veer from looking at building his business in Asia neon orange or red and yellow to and has signed with Toyota Tsusho Corp. more earthy, vegetable colors such as to design an accessories line and plans olive green, honey yellow, taupe and between 2009 and 2010 to open offi ces, brown. Contrasting with the large, a store, an Italian bistro and a boutique Michael Stars Looks to Accessories deconstructed shapes, clutches will hotel in Shanghai, in an Art Deco villa By Caroline Tell still be must-haves. A Bric’s bag. with a walled garden next to the Four At Mipel, which closed Sept. 21, ex- Seasons hotel, leveraging on his new partner- MICHAEL STARS, THE LOS ANGELES-BASED SPORTS- hibitors and organizers were cautious ship with Shanghai-based Simon Lu. This wear firm known for its “one-size-fits-most” T-shirts, is about business and sales projections. agreement will allow McMillan to expand in launching an accessories division for spring. AIMPES said countries such as Russia and furniture and jewelry design. The company signed a licensing deal with Green Tea, the United Arab Emirates — where Italy’s For spring, the brand showcased a collec- also from Los Angeles, to produce handbags, scarves, hats leather goods exports in the January-to- tion dubbed “eco-ethnic luxury” made with and shoes. An additional optical line will be produced in May period grew 45.6 and 39 percent, re- “earth-friendly materials” such as raffi a, linen partnership with Signature Optical. spectively — helped balance losses in and vegetable-dyed hides. African geometrics The collection retails from $28 for a viscose jersey scarf more established countries such as the and other exotic ethnic patterns, weaves, ap- to $85 for a Grecian leather sandal. The eyewear will re- U.S. and France, where sales dropped plications and laser cutouts embellished the tail for $75 to $125. 8.3 and 11 percent, respectively. In soft bags in a palette of ivory, sand, dark brown “Accessories make sense and it’s a total natural exten- the fi ve months, exports amounted and black, with touches of washed-out mauves, sion for us,” said Michael Cohen, founder of Michael Stars. to 1.37 billion euros, or $2.08 aquamarine, oranges and yellows. “Our sportswear goes perfectly with accessories. All of our billion at average exchange Braccialini also pursued earthy designs, products were inspired by the lifestyle of our customer. They rates, a 6.4 percent increase with canvas bags with floral prints and lead an easygoing life and our accessories refl ect that.” compared with the same satchels with ethnic images reminiscent of Cohen estimates the accessories line could generate period last year. the Amazon forests. Controlled by Antichi sales of $3 million to $5 million at retail in its fi rst three Mipel organizers re- Pellettieri SpA, the Mariella Burani years. Distribution will be aimed at the fi rm’s current store ported 17,369 visitors this Fashion Group SpA leather division listed accounts, including Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, as well season, down from 19,097 on the stock exchange, Braccialini is also as specialty boutiques. The accessories will also bow at the in September 2007. This focused on ecological fashion through the seven Michael Stars stores in such places as downtown Los season, the fair attracted license of the Amazonlife brand: a new Angeles, Manhattan Beach, Calif., and Las Vegas. 8,065 visitors from out- collection of bags and accessories that Michael Stars was founded 22 years ago when Cohen side Italy. Giorgio Cannara, are made of natural, recycled and envi- moved to Los Angeles from South Africa and decided to president of AIMPES, said A David & ronmentally friendly materials. start a T-shirt line that epitomized the laid-back attitude more than 1,000 buyers came from Scotti bag. Lorenzo Braccialini, in charge of com- of seaside living. the former Soviet Union countries such munications, said the company does not “The beach infl uences everything we do,” Cohen said. as Russia, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic coun- foresee slowing down in the short-term “I was born in a beach town, I live in a beach town and I tries. Cannara said exports for the rest of the year are and that “even if there is a more contained wanted our T-shirts to refl ect that.” expected to grow between 6 and 8 percent but fore- growth, everything is already planned for 2009.” The Two years ago the fi rm began branching out with ac- cast a continued slowdown in Italy, penalized by the fi rm is also working on new headquarters in Scandicci tivewear, cashmere sweaters, dresses and a baby line negative economy and a reduced desire to spend. in Tuscany, with vertical gardens and solar panels. called Mikey Stars. But Cohen always knew he would even- “In these turbulent times, we must be more care- At Principe, the company’s licensed Killah line tually venture into accessories, saying he considers his sig- ful and think short-term strategies,” said Roberto showed a new travel collection with signature all- nature T-shirts to be more like accessories than apparel. Briccola, chief executive offi cer of Bric’s. This means over patterns. Redwall harked back to the Eighties “Women buy our shirts consciously knowing that they go cutting costs and “rigorous management,” he added. with a bright fuchsia and orange crocodile print or with virtually everything,” Cohen said. “They wear them to Bric’s is also looking east. A store opened in a faux snake pattern. Tardini, which uses alligator, go jogging or to go work at Bank of America under a gray Shanghai in September, another will bow in Beijing introduced a zebralike pattern with trimmings in suit. They go every which way and our accessories are like at the end of November and a unit will open in vivid red or yellow. the shirts, they go with everything.” FINDINGS

AUTUMN SOLSTICE: Solstice Sunglass part of the Birks private label line. Initially, they will Reidel said the Gorjana for Martin + Osa collection will be Boutique opened its newest Manhattan be offered at the company’s Canadian stores, called carried in the top doors fi rst and then, depending upon sell- location last week at 48 Ninth Avenue Birks, in its Montreal headquarters as well as in through, will be rolled out across the chain of about 25 stores. in the Meatpacking District. “The Toronto and Vancouver, and in the company’s Mayors Meatpacking District is the perfect stores in Miami and Atlanta. COLE HAAN’S KUDOS: Creative director Paul Overfi eld is pleased location for our upscale designer Solstice’s Meatpacking The joint arrangement with the Botswana with the progress Cole Haan has made in updating the 80-year- sunglass concept,” said Rick Talmage, District boutique. government promotes assurance of “sustainable, old brand. The patent leather penny loafers created for the chief operating offi cer of Solstice ethical benefi ts, in jobs, health care and housing” anniversary have sold out, and an optical woven handbag in black Sunglass Boutique. The eyewear retailer for the people of Botswana, as well as quality control patent and suede has been “an incredible success.” Plus, the is expanding and recently opened a two-fl oor Miami outpost. and auditing for Birks & Mayors, said John Orrico, senior vice “wish”-themed sterling jewelry by Anna Sheffi eld has been well president. Botswana supplies 26 percent of the world’s diamonds, received since its introduction in August. RECOGNIZING RAFE: The Asian-American Arts Alliance is which are about 76 percent of the country’s exports and 33 percent “We’re incredibly happy with the way things are going — it’s honoring handbag designer Rafe Totengco’s contributions to of its gross domestic product, offi cials said. Birks & Mayors also the evolution of the brand,” Overfi eld said at dinner Wednesday fashion on Tuesday with a dinner party at New York’s 12 Chairs carries Birks Canadian Diamonds and The Amorique Diamond, a in Dallas with Sheffi eld and local media. “We talk about Café. Fellow honorees include Asian-American designers Phillip proprietary cut. Birks & Mayors operates 70 jewelry reimagining all the time, how we can take a classic product and Lim and Peter Som. “As an Asian-American designer, I think stores in North America. The company posted make it more relevant by updating it. People love the idea of a it’s important that we celebrate our heritage and strengthen the annual sales of $294.3 million in fi scal 2007. classic reimagined.” bond between us,” Totengco said. With $500 million in annual sales, Cole Haan’s Proceeds from the dinner will benefi t the alliance, a 26-year- WESTERN GEMS: Martin + Osa is business “hasn’t been too bad given the economic old nonprofi t arts organization dedicated to strengthening Asian- building its jewelry assortment next climate,” Overfi eld said. American artists and cultural groups in New York. month when a holiday collection In other company news, Michael Capiraso has designed with Southern California jewelry been appointed Cole Haan’s chief marketing DIAMOND DEAL: Jewelry retail fi rm Birks & Mayors Inc. will brand Gorjana will hit stores of the Gorjana for offi cer. Capiraso, who starts on Tuesday, will become the exclusive distributor of Botswana diamonds in North American Eagle Outfi tters offshoot. The Martin + Osa be responsible for developing and managing America. The diamonds will be sourced through London-based collection consists of three earrings and earrings. all aspects of the accessories fi rm’s global marketing Diamond Trading Co., part of the De Beers family, which also four necklaces retailing from $40 to $110. and communications efforts. He will be based at the has a joint venture with the Botswana government. The stones “We based it off of what is selling really company’s design and marketing headquarters in New will be manufactured exclusively in a local factory, Diamond well in our current line and tweaked it to make it a little more York and will report to chief executive offi cer James Seuss. Manufacturing Botswana. simple and brought the prices down,” said Gorjana designer Capiraso joins the company from PRISM, WPP’s sports and Starting with an assortment of mostly large diamonds from 2 Gorjana Reidel, who added that the goal was make the pieces entertainment agency, where he had been ceo of North America. to 5 carats, the Botswana diamonds will launch in mid-October as approachable for a wide range of customers. He replaces Lori Wagner, who left the fi rm last February. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 21 WWD.COM Fine Jewelry Report Movado’s Gerry Grinberg Refl ects on His Life and Times By Sophia Chabbott When Grinberg came to the U.S., many Americans — including presidents and business executives — wore WATCHES STILL MAKE GEDALIO “GERRY” GRINBERG simple, unadorned utilitarian watches. But in Grinberg’s tick, even at age 77. native Cuba, watches were a status symbol and he saw The native of Cuba who was instrumental in turning potential that Americans would gravitate toward such a mainstream Americans on to luxury timepieces, will luxury item. step down on Jan. 31 as chairman of Movado Group. His “Although Cuba was a smaller country than the son, Efraim, will take on the role of chairman while con- United States, in some ways it was more sophisticated tinuing as president and chief executive offi cer. than the U.S. market,” Grinberg said. “Watches were Grinberg, who fl ed to Miami from Cuba under Fidel less about being a practical means to tell time and more Castro’s regime in the Sixties, got into the business by about being a fashionable item that made a statement selling alarm clocks in his home country and, when he about the wearer. In the upper classes, people dressed The original moved to the U.S., began dealing in more serious time- very fashionably using sophisticated French or British Museum watch. pieces by the likes of Omega, Corum and Piaget. In 1965, materials. Clearly, that was a very small segment of the he founded the North American Watch Corp., eventu- watch market, but it did exist.” the suit, but ended up suing other watch fi rms that did ally adding Concord and Movado to the fi rm’s roster. Grinberg did market research and was moved most infringe on his patent. The company, now known as Movado Group, has annual by Vance Packard’s “The Hidden Persuaders,” a book on Movado has long been known as a patron of the arts sales of $560 million. how people’s thoughts and feelings are manipulated by and Andy Warhol can in part be credited for that. In According to Grinberg, the watch indus- business, media and politicians. the Seventies, Warhol approached Grinberg to trade a try may take a hit in the current eco- “[Packard] used the model of Cadillac because Corum watch for a print. The two became friends and nomic malaise, but great design and Mercedes and today’s other luxury brands had Grinberg became a regular on the art scene. Warhol novel ideas will surely come out of limited availability,” said Grinberg. “He said designed a watch for the fi rm, as eventually did James this period as brands seek to dif- we were developing a higher-income mar- Rosenquist, Arman, Max Bill and Yaacov Agam. Movado ferentiate themselves further. ket and the people in this market needed is working on a new Artist’s Series today. “Watches measure time and I Gedalio products to show their new status in life. A As for the future of the industry, Grinberg sees the have always been fascinated by “Gerry” Cadillac in the driveway was a symbol of tides changing. what a person does with their Grinberg their new status.” “I’ve never seen times like these,” he said. “We are time,” said Grinberg, of what fi rst Grinberg related Packard’s teachings to currently in turmoil, and it is my experience from past struck him about timepieces. the watch market and he began to adver- events that in this type of climate changes occur and new tise and grow Piaget from $175,000 in sales things develop. However, at this time I do not see any From the Movado archives, to more than $30 million in sales in luxury clear direction where the watch business is headed nor the Warhol watch. watches in the Eighties. which segments will be most successful in the future.” Grinberg also knew he had a winner when he Movado has recently revamped two brands in its ros- saw Nathan George Horwitt’s Bauhaus-inspired ter, Ebel and Concord. Both are going more upscale and Museum Watch design for Movado in 1960. The dial was exclusive. Concord has gone to doing only mechanical without markings except for a dot at the 12-hour mark. movements with prices as high as $320,000, and Ebel It was a revolutionary design at the time. also has some proprietary movements that are in de- “I wanted this watch in my collection very badly,” mand by collectors. Grinberg mused. “I was obsessed like a little child. “Every crisis brings new creativity and we will see this However, it belonged to Movado….It took me almost 20 happen, as in the past,” Grinberg said. “In recent years, years to get the company.” highly complicated mechanical watches have become very Grinberg fi nally acquired Movado in 1983 and his re- important and successful in the watch industry. We have lationship with Horwitt was a juxtaposition of mercu- a company that covers many segments of the market and rial and convivial. Horwitt sued Grinberg over a Piaget have brands that we develop in the fi eld. This business is watch design in which the dials were made of lapis la- important worldwide because in many markets people zuli, jade or tiger-eye and were without markers, claim- buy extremely expensive products as a hedge against in- ing they infringed on his famous design. Horwitt lost fl ation, and so far, we are doing well in this market.” Boucheron Has Virtual Growth Spurt in U.S. Exhibit Focuses on Ancient Jewels THE NATIONAL JEWELRY INSTITUTE HAS GONE By Cate T. Corcoran back in time. The six-year-old, nonprofi t organization that aims to AFTER A YEAR OF SELLING IN EUROPE, celebrate, research and preserve fi ne jewelry around Boucheron today plans to open its first on- the world, has opened an exhibit called “Masterpieces line store in the U.S. of Ancient Jewelry: Exquisite Objects from the Cradle “We wanted to master our ability to man- of Civilization.” age this new activity before launching into The show, sponsored by Christian Dior Couture the major market, which is the U.S. market,” and AXA Art Insurance Corp., will be on display at the said Boucheron chief executive offi cer Jean- Forbes Galleries in New York until Dec. 31. It features Christophe Bédos. The Gucci Group-owned 135 jewelry objects and accessories, from a carnelian, luxury jeweler is one of the fi rst to sell on- agate and Egyptian blue necklace from fi rst millennium line, still a rarity among luxury jewelry and B.C. Mesopotamia to an armlet from Iran 1030. watch brands. There are plentiful granulated gold necklaces, fi li- “We consider the Web to be a tool al- gree hoop earrings and signet rings. One of the common ready used by our clients, not a revolution motifs is the pomegranate, a symbol of fertility. anymore,” said Bédos. “All the statistics and “This exhibition chronicles the crosscurrents of market analysis show that the wealthy con- The Boucheron Web site. Judaism, Christianity and Islam, capturing how those sumers are the highest consumers online. And they went live in September 2007. Traffi c in the physical faiths and precious objects have evolved together over are the best equipped in terms of technology. We are stores also got a measurable boost, with shoppers the millennia,” said Judith Price, founder and presi- dedicated to serving our clients, and if our clients are showing up with printouts of jewelry they wish to see dent of NJI. “Jewelry is much more than simply person- online, we should be where our clients are.” in person, or mentioning to the salesperson they want al adornment. Like all true art, it can be a remarkable The idea behind the site is to offer an additional to see an item they already viewed online. expression of a culture and way of life.” service — that is, one available at any hour in any loca- “We have observed an increase of traffi c in our Price also penned a book, published by Running tion — that reproduces as much as possible the expe- stores, which was a surprise because we did not ex- Press, sharing the same name as the show. rience of shopping in a Boucheron store. The online pect such a causal relationship,” said Bédos. As mul- After the Forbes Galleries, the show will travel to the store offers the same merchandise categories, sku’s tichannel apparel retailers from high to low have also Field Museum in Chicago, where it will be on display and prices as the off-line stores. It even offers some discovered, some customers who pre-shop on the Web from Feb 13 to July 5. customization capabilities. For example, shoppers can buy in the store, and others return home to buy online. — S.C. choose the color of the bands of pavé stones in a ring “Everyone is more and more individualistic about their shaped like a chameleon. shopping experience,” he said. “We are living in a time Gucci Group and other fi rms selling designer ap- when people are very clever, they know what they want parel have done very well online, and Boucheron and they behave the way they want. It’s very exciting to wanted to see if the same behavior would hold true for learn all these new things via the Web.” the high-end jewelry category, said Bédos. The answer Bédos said the company will predict sales for the turned out to be yes. “We have people who can order U.S. store after one year in business. The European jewelry without any feeling of taboo. They order jewel- online store has not yet reached the sales volume of ry like they would order fashion online,” he said. Many an off-line store in one year, but undoubtedly will in existing customers feel comfortable ordering online. In the future, he said. So far, the company has not expe- addition, the Web site has introduced the brand to new rienced any fall in sales because of the credit crisis customers, both within and outside store trading areas, in the U.S. or Europe, and Bédos said in general, the and attracts a youthful audience. luxury jewelry business is fairly resilient because jew- Traffi c to the Web site increased 200 percent after elry is a stable investment and wealthy customers are Gold “Peacock” earrings on display at the Forbes Galleries. the European store, selling both in euros and pounds, diversifi ed in their investments. 22 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Execs Get Advice on Riding Out Down Market By Karyn Monget LOOKING TO GIVE MEMBERS INSIGHT and advice on dealing with the economic crisis, the Underfashion Club staged a seminar that stressed tightening invento- ries and operational costs and the need to provide innovative, value-driven product. More than 150 industry executives at- tended the event, “Rising to the Occasion: Keeping Your Brand on Top in a Down Market,” on Sept. 25 at the W New York — The Court in Manhattan. The general consensus was that in- timate apparel, which traditionally is a resilient category in tough times, is taking a hit. A discussion moderated by Tom Garson, president and chief execu- tive offi cer of Lovable World Trading Co., concluded that, along with focused management, ground-breaking product Richard Murray, is necessary to entice retailers and con- Seth Morris and Martha Olson sumers to buy. Tom Garson. “I’ve been in business for 21 years, and clearly it’s the worst I’ve ever seen,” said Seth Morris, president of the Carole is suffering at the same level as stores. about 70 percent of business is private some advantage over private label.” Hochman Design Group. “All of these Inventories are being planned tighter. A label. We need to have great brands they Another key question was what com- things are happening at the same time lot may have to do with [pedestrian] traf- can’t knock off. We need to bring a com- panies are doing strategically to insure a — the credit crunch, the housing prob- fi c and a lot of consumers are thinking pelling design and brand equation day-in balanced supply chain. lem, unemployment, the problems on about what is being bought and sold. If and day-out with brands that resonate, “Our sourcing strategy is to build Wall Street. We used to say cautiously your product sells, it’s something that ex- and you don’t want to lose sight of that.” strong partnerships,” Morris said. “It’s optimistic. Now, we just say cautious. We cites the consumer. I think retailers are been the core of what we’ve done. What are going to have to give…a very compel- seeing the same message. They’re being we take very seriously is social compli- ling reason to buy. The fi rst thing is not very open and honest about it, and as a ance. We are not looking to fi nd ourselves to scrimp on anything. It’s about newness result they’re being cautious.” I’ve been in business on ‘60 Minutes.’ We source 100 percent and design, and at the end of the day, it Richard Murray, president of Wacoal “ overseas and we are continually trying has to be about the product.” America Inc., said, “Department store for 21 years, and to diversify. China is a monster today and Martha Olson, president of Calvin business [overall] is down 5 percent. In we’re trying not to put all of our eggs in Klein Underwear and core brands at August it was 6 percent. This is the fi rst clearly it’s the worst one basket.” Warnaco Group Inc., said, “I think ev- time I can recall that intimate apparel Murray said, “Our Wacoal brand bra erybody in the world knows it’s bad out business has been as affected as the I’ve ever seen. is made…in the Dominican Republic, there. Retail is very challenging and stores have. Whether it’s Kohl’s or dis- —” Seth Morris, China, Thailand and South Korea. Social we’ll see it for a while. Intimate apparel count chains, intimate apparel depart- compliance also is very important for us. ments are suffering like everyone else. Carole Hochman Design Group We’re not going to be the biggest custom- We have to be conservative because re- er they have, but we do reference checks tailers absolutely are. We are trying to Olson said, “From a channel perspec- and credit checks. We try to deal with the maintain our marketing monies, as well tive, it’s to grow the business where the most reliable contractors.” as back-offi ce [expenses] to justify open- consumer is with our portfolio of brands Asked about keeping brands on top in ing positions. But there are 20 questions on the Internet.” a down market, Morris said, “It’s about we ask before we fi ll them and we post- Murray said, “We’re putting emphasis price. There’s pressure from retailers pone any major projects unless there’s a on specialty stores [boutiques]. It’s been a down to us and our suppliers. You need big return.” big push for over a year. It’s a natural be- to be close and understand what the con- 9.3% The speakers were also asked what cause they’re experts on product knowl- sumer wants right now.” of middle-class household their companies are doing to capitalize edge and service, and we’re working with Olson said, “Our geo-diversity is help- income among Russia’s 142 on multichannel opportunities and how our retail partners on Internet business. ful and we can spread the risk and focus they compete with private label. But product development is the key thing. on product and execution. And if we are million inhabitants is spent on “We have a very diverse portfolio of We like to look at it as the whole product smart, we can capture that clenched fi st apparel, 14.5 percent of which is brands and a signifi cant private label and bring it to the table. We have all of the consumer has around her purse.” comprised of lingerie purchases business,” Morris said. “The multichan- our Wacoal consultants out there. They Murray added, “The fi rst thing is we by women 25 to 34 years old. nel concept is very signifi cant to us and help with [store] events and are interac- have to survive. You have to understand SOURCE: MISSION ECONOMIQUE we can go from top to bottom. As far as tive with product development. We bring the philosophies of your company, but at competition, it’s our customers, where a whole package to retailers and that’s the same time still be fl exible.”

30 units a week, he added. BootyPop also sells to Boogie’s Diner in Aspen, Colo., Holiday in Boston and Alene Too in Boca Raton, Fla., and will be launched in BootyPop Gives Aspirational Lift October at National Jean Co. in metro Boston. Bloomstone and Reisler project $2 million in revenues in 2009. By Katherine Bowers “We’re not necessarily selling to the traditional lingerie stores, but to the jeans stores,” said Bloomstone. “The trend is for tight jeans, which NEWTON, Mass. — The cinched waistline tend to squash you a little. So retailers are having customers try on and its curvy counterpoint, the voluptuous BootyPop while they’re trying on their jeans. Women buy the jeans backside, are a mainstay of pop culture. that makes their butt look good.” Jennifer Lopez and reality TV’s Kim Reisler, based in Montreal, handles design while Kardashian are famous for hourglass Bloomstone, a former PBS producer based in metro shapes, sales of skintight jeans and ban- Boston, tackles sales and marketing. A third inves- dage dresses are up, and gym squat regi- tor, American Dream Team Network, a division of mens and Brazilian butt lifts continue to Canadian conglomerate J. Corp., handles sourcing grow in popularity. It was enough to inspire and production. entrepreneur Susan Bloomstone and her Bloomstone has gotten Kelly Ripa and Shari co-creator, designer Lisa Reisler, to make a BootyPop Shepherd to wear and discuss BootyPops on “Live panty equivalent of a padded bra. lace undies. with Regis & Kelly” and “The View.” Making the “I read about young girls getting butt implants circuit of celebrity charity events, Bloomstone and it disturbed me,” said Bloomstone, mother of has handed out BootyPops to the “Gossip two daughters. “We saw this as a safe, fun option Girls” cast. because not everyone is going to get that perky butt The current BootyPop, at $14 wholesale, from doing 100 squats in the gym each day.” has a junior sensibility — candy-bright colors, a Their boyshort panty, called BootyPop, features two bubble-pattern logo and cotton and spandex fabric. sewn-in, curved pads over each “cheek” and a ruched Using feedback from retailers, Reisler has designed a center seam. The shapewear category is hot, but nearly ev- contemporary collection, B.P.C by BootyPop, in microfi ber at erything else on the market is girdle options à la Spanx. $17 wholesale and stretch lace for $20, to hit stores in October. She’s “We laughed at fi rst, like ‘Would people really buy this?’ But it’s been fl ying off also working on swimwear and loungewear for spring. Reisler said the shelves,” said Dean Khial, vice president of Kitson boutique, who picked up the they’re able to move the BootyPop padding into the new categories. line this spring. “It’s been the sleeper hit of the summer.” “We did a lot of trial and error to fi nd the right foam that would be

It’s the top-selling underwear stockkeeping unit on kitson.com, moving 25 to functional and washable,” she said. THOMAS IANNACCONE MEGHAN JONES; ALL OTHERS BY BOOTY PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 23 WWD.COM Financial Retailers Argue for Better Shopping Experience By Alexandra Steigrad going to be employed, or wheth- has declined, while men’s has cretionary costs. about the numbers on Friday, er they are going to pay the bills. remained strong “in the past two Surveying the prospects for hol- how much traffi c was out there. RETAILERS CAN AT LEAST I think it’s going to stay that or three quarters.” iday, Kyees was the most optimistic There’ll be huge traffi c with the partially overcome a difficult way for a while. You don’t turn To strengthen sales, Hilson member of the panel, saying his early bird specials. Saturday the economy and an anxiety-ridden around this fear overnight.” said the teen retailer would bring company’s third-quarter momen- malls will be half empty again. consumer if they offer custom- Rayden, like his colleagues “value” in key items to offset the tum would carry into the fourth “The next two weeks, every- ers the promise of a good time, a on the panel, said consumers “tougher environment.” Already, quarter, while Hilson, Rayden and body’s going to moan and groan, good look and a good value. have been feeling the pinch for Hilson said the retailer “had to Casual Male ceo David Levin were ‘Where are the customers?’ and That was the message deliv- some time, lowering women’s play the price card” in August, more cautious, pointing to the there will be this huge surge the ered by a panel of retailers, con- and teen apparel sales. when it rolled out promotions in trend towards later shopping by last four or fi ve days. It’s been vening in the midst of a severe “The [teen] pack is not grow- order to move its assortment. consumers and adding that even happening every year. I don’t credit crunch, at last week’s ing,” he said, adding the fi nancial Hilson said that while there though Christmas will be diffi cult, know why we think the fi rst two RBC Capital Markets’ Consumer crisis has taken a toll on consum- is a “price sensitivity,” retailers it will still happen. weeks in December there’s this Conference in New York. While ers of every income bracket and, “have to differentiate in assort- Levin argued that retailers, Christmas rush,” Levin said, not underestimating the severity in turn, retailers of every kind. ment to win.” analysts and the media tend to exasperated. “They are normal of the current fi nancial crisis, American Eagle cfo Joan Like nearly all retailers, make too much of early shop- weeks. If you start to realize it, executives from Urban Outfi tters Hilson told the audience her American Eagle is tightening ping trends. “Everybody’s going you can start to plan your busi- Inc., American Eagle Outfi tters company’s women’s business inventories and assessing dis- to focus on [Black] Friday, talk ness and not panic also.” Inc., Tween Brands Inc. and Casual Male Retail Group Inc. offered survival strategies for a challenging holiday season as well as updates on the current condition of their fi rms. “Now is not the time to be chicken,” said Urban Outfi tters chief financial officer John Kyees. “It’s the time to be aggres- Wells Fargo Retail Finance sive. You have to show unique product. If you don’t show it, the customer is not going to have any reason to buy.” That’s easier for Kyees to say than it is for others. In its second quarter, the company — which includes the namesake This announcement appears as a matter of record only. brand as well as Anthropologie Flexible Financing For All Your Retail Needs and Free People — had a 78.8 percent jump in profi ts, while same-store sales rose 7 percent, “Even in this very challenging period in the financial 10 percent and 19 percent at marketplace, the team at Wells Fargo Retail Finance Anthropologie, Free People and Urban Outfi tters, respectively. was able to provide Save Mart Supermarkets with an Urban’s success is due to its asset-based credit facility that supports our strategic fashion-forward merchandise, objectives. Their expertise allowed them to quickly has obtained a Kyees said, and the “experien- understand how we operate, thus expediting the loan tial” orientation of its individu- ally designed stores. process. We look forward to a mutually beneficial $360,000,000 Kyees likened the shopping relationship.” Senior Secured Credit Facility experience to a “mini-vacation” or a “treasure hunt,” and said that arranged and agented by when times are tough, consumers Stephen Ackerman “gravitate towards stores with the Chief Financial Officer best shopping experience.” Save Mart Supermarkets One Boston Place, Suite 1800 “Women shop to have fun; it’s Boston, MA 02108 not because they need clothing,” (888) 964-9600 he said. The shopping experience is only one element of Urban’s suc- cess, he said. Another is product assortment. Kyees said Urban’s “broad and shallow” inventory is atypical. Most retailers have fewer styles in a wider array of colors. “I think the model of our busi- ness has really paid off in this type of an environment, and I think we have the ability to test fashion on the edges where some people don’t,” he said. “When you’re nar- row and deep, you have to make too big a bet on the edge of fashion. When you’re broad and shallow, and you’re buying 5,000 units and not 100,000 units of an item, you can gamble, and if you’re wrong, you mark it down and move on.” Tween Brands recently took a large gamble of its own. Wells Fargo Retail Finance provides senior secured revolving lines of credit, term loans and seasonal facilities Following a larger-than-expected tailored for middle market and large retailers in the United States and Canada. Calling on proven industry second-quarter loss and an 8 per- experience and dedicated, personal attention, we are committed to providing a fi nancing solution that works cent decline in same-store sales, Tween disclosed in August that it for you. would convert 560 of its Limited Too stores to its more moderately oriented Justice nameplate. As the conversion moves forward, Talk to a lender with retail experience. (888) 964-9600 traffi c has remained slow. “I think there is a much bigger Call or visit us online to learn more. wellsfargoretailfinance.com fear factor than we’re letting on,” said Tween’s chairman and chief executive offi cer Michael Rayden of the recent economic trials and tribulations. “Traffi c would not © 2008 Wells Fargo Retail Finance. All rights reserved. be down if they weren’t feeling worried about whether they are 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008

Financial Credit Tight for Retail CFOs Study Cites Financial Anxiety

By Evan Clark mortgage debt and other toxic credit instruments. “Defi nitely the purse strings are a little bit On the Rise Among Wealthy CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICERS WERE HAVING tighter,” Fox-Simpson said. “If you’ve got a rocky a harder time getting funds to run operations even earnings history or slim margins and there’s been By Vicki M. Young before the near-complete restructuring of Wall concern for some time about your viability, I’m Street and the freezing of the credit markets over sure it’s hard to get credit.” EVEN THE AFFLUENT ARE STARTING TO FEEL THE PINCH. the last month. Cutting costs, such as through reductions in In the latest annual survey of Affl uence & Wealth in America by Forty-one percent of fi nancial chiefs at U.S. seasonal and non-seasonal workforces, is one of American Express Publishing and Harrison Group, over 71 percent retailers said they experienced a tightening the key tools retailers have at their disposal in of America’s affl uent and wealthy consumers said the real estate of credit from their lenders, according to a such illiquid times. Department store jobs fell and banking crisis has affected their sense of fi nancial security. study by accounting and consulting fi rm BDO sharply last month, according to the U.S. govern- That represents 10 percent of American families. Among those Seidman LLP. Nearly a quarter — 24 percent ment, and employment in the sector trailed that considered affl uent and wealthy, with a median annual income of — reported broader use of pink slips and said of specialty stores for the fi rst time in almost $325,000, nearly six out of 10 surveyed said they are now worried they have had or plan to have signifi cant staff two decades. about running out of money. reductions this year. “You want to demonstrate to your lender that The respondents, mostly C-level executives, have between Other fi ndings of the most recent survey in- you are being proactive and you are managing $100,000 to more than $1 million in discretionary spending dollars. clude: cash wisely,” said Fox-Simpson. The results were derived from interviews with 614 affl uent individ- • 36 percent of retailers already have or plan to Retailers have also cut back on the goods uals conducted Sept. 19 to 23, after September’s credit implosion, close stores this year. they carry, with the survey finding 37 percent but before the House of Representatives’ initial rejection of the • 77 percent have not or do not plan to delay of them reducing planned inventory purchases proposed $700 billion bailout package and the Senate and House’s store openings. this year. subsequent approval of a revised version last week. • 91 percent of retail cfo’s said the weakening Financial chiefs play the key role of point per- According to Jim Taylor, vice chairman of the Harrison Group, dollar has not increased their concerns that they son with increasingly skittish lenders. They are 59 percent of the respondents said they were worried they could might be acquired by an international entity. being forced to learn new skills as they navigate at some point run out of money. Most had their principal income The study was based on a telephone survey of their way through the fi nancial crisis. from wages. In the September survey, 64 percent of the “Bedrocks” 100 cfo’s at retailers with revenues of more than “This would be a completely different envi- — upper middle class and affl uents, which the survey described as $100 million and was conducted in August and ronment than they’ve ever functioned in before,” having between $100,000 to $149,000 in discretionary spending in- early September. she said. come for the upper middle class and between $150,000 and $249,000 “They’ve seen even more credit tightening The market upheaval has also made for a fl ight for the affl uents — said they could run out of money, up from 45 per- [over the last month],” Catherine Fox-Simpson, a from green issues to greenbacks. cent of respondents who were asked that question in April. Among partner at BDO Seidman, said, who noted some of Last year’s study found cfo’s were focused on the “Pinnacles” — the super affl uent with $250,000 to $499,000 in the statistics would probably spike if the survey environmental issues, higher energy costs and, discretionary income, and the wealthy, with over $500,000 — 48 per- were done again now. after a spate of safety recalls on Chinese made cent in September were afraid of running out of money, compared Markets for short- and long-term debt have be- goods, product quality. with 35 percent of the respondents in April. come hard to tap and banks have become much “Companies have clearly turned their focus more cautious or have even gone out of business from more sustainability and green-type issues to or been acquired over the last month as investors, staying afl oat,” said Fox-Simpson. “This is a very The affl uent and wealthy…are banking executives and lawmakers wrangle over critical time. When your bank goes under, it’s just “ how to clean up billions of dollars of questionable not something you’re expecting.” becoming more thoughtful, getting on top of their spending and worrying more about the future of their children. — Jim Taylor, Harrison” Group

“The economic diffi culties of the past year have begun to signifi - cantly change the way America’s most fi nancially successful families view their future,” said Taylor. “The affl uent and wealthy, who account for 50 percent of U.S. consumption, are becoming more thoughtful, get- ting on top of their spending and worrying more about the future of their children. Nearly half of our respondents are owners of or senior offi cers in American businesses, so we expect the growing caution to spill over into capital and human resources decisions.” Cara David, senior vice president of strategic insights, marketing and sales at American Express Publishing, said total discretionary spending in the U.S. is $10 trillion, and that the income groups stud- ied represented 50 percent of that total. She added that 75 percent said the country is in a recession. In addition, 50 percent believe the recession will last longer than a year. Optimism among America’s wealthy has been on the decline. In 2005, over 90 percent were optimistic about their own future. In September’s survey, only 55 percent said they were optimistic about their future. The study also shows a shift in how consumers will shop for the holidays. “It would appear that we are shifting from an ‘I want’ to ‘I need’ economy in which people are looking out for the interest of the people they love more than their own interests. If there is a silver lining in the current malaise, growing thoughtfulness in gift-giving and family purchasing may be it,” said Taylor. Over 70 percent are looking more carefully at their spending on luxury categories to see where money can be saved, with 83 per- cent waiting for something to go on sale. Still, only 2 percent plan to eliminate spending on big-ticket items. Thus wealthy consumers are still spending on luxury goods, but purchasing fewer of them. For holiday, most said they wanted a gift certifi cate, followed by a favorite book or video. Many said they planned to buy electronics, apparel, accessories and jewelry for those on their gift list. The survey determined that in 2008 the affl uent and wealthy will spend a total of $22 billion in holiday gift-giving, with the “Bedrock” upper middle class and affl uent averaging $1,346 per household, or a total of $12.92 billion for the group, and the wealthier “Pinnacles” averaging $4,135 per household, representing a total of $9.1 billion for the super affl uents and the wealthy. There was a marked move away from specifi c party affi liation among respondents. In 2006, 46 percent said they were Republicans, with rough- ly 36 percent Democrats and 19 percent independents. In the September survey, about 34 percent classifi ed themselves as Republicans, 27 per- cent as Democrats and 34 percent as independents. Taylor said 20 percent of the respondents were still undecided about the upcoming election. Of those surveyed, 36 percent said if Sen. John McCain were elected, there would be no change to the economy, versus 36 percent who said the economy would improve. In comparison, if Sen. Barack Obama were elected, 29 percent be- lieve there would be no change to the economy, versus 37 percent who said the economy would see some improvement. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 25 WWD.COM

For more, Trade Bill Reaches Bush WEEKLY STOCKS see WWD.com. 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT By Kristi Ellis High Low Companies P/E Last Change High Low Companies P/E Last Change 85.77 35.14 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 7.1 21274196 36.06 -2.79 1.96 0.30 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 4444675 0.32 -0.05 WASHINGTON — Congress sent a trade bill to President Bush on Friday that will renew duty free 29.00 21.17 Acadia (AKR) 18.6 1499673 23.37 -1.72 51.96 23.97 J. Crew (JCG) 16.2 7482473 25.42 -3.90 apparel benefits and could prevent major disrup- 3.78 1.09 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 676723 1.11 -0.11 69.25 27.65 J.C. Penney (JCP) 7.9 34350431 31.37 -4.13 tions in $2.5 billion worth of imports for retailers 37.40 19.00 Aéropostale (ARO) 15.4 15773607 27.85 -3.85 7.70 4.75 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 17163 4.75 -1.20 and apparel importers with production in Africa 29.40 21.75 Alberto Culver (ACV) 23.9 4857990 27.30 0.32 2.05 0.60 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 11.5 716507 0.95 -0.21 and the Andean region. 16.80 5.00 American Apparel (APP) 21.9 2372562 7.27 -1.33 23.08 12.10 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 11201243 16.13 -3.17 “Everyone recognized that we should not let these 25.65 11.87 American Eagle (AEO) 9.3 42571256 13.63 -2.27 50.58 18.81 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 11.8 5040850 33.31 -0.85 programs languish and the fi nal result is an affi rmation 36.81 18.70 Ann Taylor (ANN) 12.9 10507285 18.71 -2.65 20.43 12.11 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 578331 13.07 -2.75 of our commitment to our developing-country trading 6.45 2.47 Ashworth (ASHW) - 262969 3.00 -0.75 47.80 29.00 Kimco Realty (KIM) 27.9 23949933 31.36 -7.02 partners and the important role that rules-based trade 420.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 48.7 7878318 337.50 -22.50 63.97 36.81 Kohl’s (KSS) 13.4 36130108 41.47 -7.66 can play in fostering development,” said House Ways & Means Chairman Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.). 45.34 34.00 Avon (AVP) 24.9 19030084 38.46 -3.22 26.00 13.89 K-Swiss (KSWS) 12.6 956406 16.40 -1.41 The multifaceted bill could benefi t companies 15.30 8.81 Bebe (BEBE) 13.1 1668253 8.59 -1.48 18.98 11.97 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 13.2 15583 15.85 -0.48 making denim apparel in sub-Saharan Africa, a re- 56.72 32.32 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 18.2 7404912 42.12 -0.24 22.98 14.41 Limited Brands (LTD) 9.7 26206098 15.88 -2.90 gion that has been losing orders because of a punitive 13.30 6.05 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 8.2 4104319 6.52 -0.56 35.81 11.08 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 16629006 14.10 -3.03 provision in a U.S. trade preference program. The 6.55 1.25 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 3.0 4407 1.30 -0.20 7.25 0.95 LJ Intl. (JADE) 3.0 904068 1.02 -0.09 bill eliminates the stipulation in the African Growth 44.29 26.36 BJs (BJ) 18.8 10380893 37.87 -1.90 99.97 60.62 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 14.9 10445464 68.27 -4.32 & Opportunity Act that requires U.S. apparel import- 0.29 0.14 Blue (BLUE) - 0 0.14 0.00 60.70 16.59 Lululemon (LULU) 36.6 2812951 20.90 -3.88 ers to use a minimum of 30 million square meter 9.70 1.64 Bluefl y (BFLY) - 48793 2.44 -0.07 26.66 13.25 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 16.0 9722121 15.89 -0.89 equivalents of African-produced fabric annually to 25.24 2.51 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 1369036 2.65 -0.31 89.36 58.50 LVMH * (MC:PA) 13.8 11473007 60.42 -3.10 qualify for a benefi t allowing them to also use denim 22.65 11.89 Brown Shoe (BWS) 12.7 2605955 14.55 -2.39 93.45 51.52 Macerich (MAC) 23.4 10759078 48.12 -16.98 fabric from other countries, such as China, and im- port to the U.S. duty free. 66.86 30.05 Buckle (BKE) 16.6 4631465 47.14 -10.86 35.54 14.33 Macy’s Inc. (M) 9.2 51361693 15.19 -4.21 Importers had started cutting back jeans orders 11.48 5.67 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) 12.2 10935197 5.96 -0.49 17.59 11.03 Maidenform (MFB) 11.1 437183 13.02 -2.37 in many African countries because of concern they 686.50 354.00 Burberry * (BRBY:L) 11.7 27826697 366.00 -40.50 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 4.9 163088420 239.50 18.50 would lose their third-country fabric provision after 24.26 9.67 Cabela’s (CAB) 7.8 2242954 9.76 -3.19 51.86 15.41 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 11.2 4208023 19.11 -3.27 the U.S. International Trade Commission determined 18.51 6.07 Caché (CACH) 19.1 692247 5.70 -0.65 20.21 8.97 Mothers Work (MWRK) - 79800 12.44 -1.31 there was a 9 million SME shortfall in the amount of 54.20 30.20 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 12.6 23821174 33.62 -0.04 34.83 17.16 Movado (MOV) 9.7 1063709 19.55 -5.67 African-produced denim fabric they used last year. 23.13 11.94 Carter (CRI) 14.4 4090281 17.75 -2.67 26.15 19.28 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 11.6 6113216 21.43 -2.44 “We are pleased they are eliminating the [African 9.33 2.95 Casual Male (CMRG) - 892062 3.49 -0.74 12.12 3.65 New York & Co. (NWY) 87.7 2545638 8.36 -1.24 fabric requirement],” said Julia Hughes, senior vice 21.68 12.48 Cato (CTR) 15.6 960441 15.56 -2.43 7.41 0.17 NexCen (NEXC) - 1568696 0.30 -0.02 president of the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & Apparel. “That is huge for having continu- 37.21 17.55 CBL (CBL) 25.3 7347439 14.61 -6.63 70.60 51.50 Nike (NKE) 17.4 26027617 63.25 -4.54 ity in business planning for sourcing executives, and 10.25 5.32 CCA (CAW) 7.7 78705 5.30 -0.35 3.38 0.50 Nitches (NICH) - 18600 0.86 -0.10 I think it will help companies look and fi nd a positive 4.35 0.48 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 128911 0.60 0.03 50.51 25.19 Nordstrom (JWN) 9.2 35701109 23.62 -5.57 way to shift business back to Africa.” 20.61 9.88 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 7.2 2540072 9.74 -1.70 10.35 5.68 Orchids Paper (TIS) 13.0 2120 7.00 0.50 The legislation also establishes a pilot program in 8.89 4.01 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 6454479 4.49 -0.75 36.53 17.40 Oxford (OXM) 22.1 740850 22.69 -3.07 the Dominican Republic to encourage manufactur- 82.17 57.10 Chattem (CHTT) 22.7 1337074 75.73 -0.28 18.44 5.00 Pacifi c Sunwear (PSUN) - 7044244 5.70 -1.13 ing of cotton bottoms by U.S. fi rms by allowing more 39.52 19.44 Cherokee (CHKE) 12.4 274516 19.21 -4.69 7.15 2.42 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 508.0 649900 4.88 -0.49 third-country fabric usage in exchange for using a 15.84 4.26 Chico’s (CHS) 41.7 22510710 5.00 -0.52 29.27 12.83 Perry Ellis (PERY) 9.5 807572 12.69 -3.14 designated amount of U.S. fabric. 43.40 14.92 Children’s Place (PLCE) - 3765583 31.42 -5.27 54.97 30.50 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 11.5 4577432 34.07 -3.33 Importers were relieved that lawmakers extend- 16.68 6.60 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 18.4 3093155 7.06 -0.96 3.12 0.92 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) 1.2 45725 0.96 -0.07 ed duty free benefi ts to Peru, Colombia, Bolivia and Ecuador, all part of a U.S. trade preference 37.60 25.15 Cintas (CTAS) 12.9 8239860 27.15 -1.91 82.02 50.55 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 15.0 9135415 57.99 -13.89 program that was set to expire. The bill would 28.12 10.76 Citi Trends (CTRN) 13.5 1173393 13.99 -3.19 141.50 56.02 PPR * (PP:PA) 6.9 4629744 60.71 -5.49 give a one-year extension of benefi ts to Colombia 47.89 22.42 Coach (COH) 10.4 40985111 21.55 -4.44 33.67 15.71 PriceSmart (PSMT) 19.5 510646 15.46 -2.47 and Peru and a six-month extension to Bolivia and 11.16 3.40 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 6851223 5.17 -0.88 15.13 5.17 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 7711754 5.08 -1.02 Ecuador, with the possibility of another six-month 81.98 66.21 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 23.1 20092194 75.50 -1.56 10.21 6.52 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 7.4 274807 6.85 -0.03 extension if the White House determines the two 24.21 8.86 Collective Brands (PSS) 142.2 6988799 16.16 -2.96 33.30 18.50 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 23.3 672315 20.26 -2.82 countries meet the program’s criteria. Bolivia has 54.83 33.06 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 11.4 1019369 38.04 -5.40 81.04 51.67 Regency Centers (REG) 28.6 5147660 55.75 -10.20 been singled out recently for failing to live up to its 75.23 59.66 Costco (COST) 21.9 29866418 62.60 -3.69 11.35 3.29 Retail Ventures (RVI) 1.6 1320432 3.60 -0.57 obligations in the counter-narcotics effort with the 75.21 3.38 Crocs (CROX) 3.3 8266007 3.33 -0.60 14.85 0.67 Revlon (REV) 13.0 1770564 13.05 -0.90 U.S. and Ecuador has been accused of raising bar- riers to U.S. investment. 0.18 0.05 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 1000 0.05 0.00 83.00 47.12 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 11.2 18996606 48.94 -2.11 “These programs were urgently needed,” said 166.50 89.88 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 20.2 2628611 89.10 -20.27 41.56 21.23 Ross Stores (ROST) 15.7 16102396 33.72 -3.18 Kevin Burke, president and chief executive offi cer of 4.74 1.50 Delia’s (DLIA) - 2574171 3.06 0.56 3.72 0.88 Safi lo * (SFL:MI) 6.8 8753382 0.89 -0.13 the American Apparel & Footwear Association. 17.25 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) - 75249 6.42 -0.29 23.05 8.15 Saks (SKS) 28.5 7478362 8.05 -1.23 In addition, the bill extends for a year the 59.27 27.60 Developers Diversifi ed (DDR) 28.1 7809160 25.63 -7.77 152.91 67.36 Sears (SHLD) 28.1 7052920 87.32 -8.85 Generalized System of Preferences, a trade program 24.86 7.61 Dillard’s (DDS) - 8199690 11.06 -1.78 109.00 74.80 Simon Properties (SPG) 44.6 18474136 83.98 -15.72 that promotes economic growth in developing coun- 17.93 9.35 Dress Barn (DBRN) 12.1 3802871 13.08 -2.59 25.57 14.94 Skechers (SKX) 8.3 3254090 14.47 -2.06 tries and gives duty free entry to 4,650 products, in- 26.70 10.10 DSW (DSW) 13.0 1434915 12.14 -2.79 3.37 1.57 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 7105 1.80 0.01 cluding jewelry, from 131 countries and territories. It 37.47 8.50 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 11628 13.75 -1.20 8.24 3.29 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 800505 3.47 -0.51 does not include apparel imports. 9.42 2.91 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 1798025 5.05 -1.35 29.00 14.61 Steve Madden (SHOO) 18.0 958737 22.77 -2.55 28.05 12.81 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 28.1 1692830 18.26 -1.97 76.50 34.60 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 1519833 35.40 -3.90 54.75 37.03 Estée Lauder (EL) 20.1 9587529 46.13 -4.75 17.86 10.38 Syms (SYMS) 323.2 53802 13.06 -0.46 WEEKLY 32.50 14.62 Family Dollar (FDO) 15.7 28106138 24.55 -2.40 19.74 6.48 Talbots (TLB) - 2776969 11.83 -1.94 12.43 1.48 Finish Line (FINL) - 10314331 7.81 -1.70 11.86 2.38 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 31257 3.67 -1.62 CHANGE 46.25 22.26 Fossil (FOSL) 13.3 5526136 25.34 -1.99 7.00 2.22 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 11.7 4180 2.71 -0.19 ( ENDING ) WWD 4.25 0.51 Fredericks of Hollywood (FOH) - 45849 0.60 -0.23 46.30 32.61 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 60.3 2014961 38.85 -5.35 % OCT. 3 15.91 7.71 Freds (FRED) 62.6 3219597 12.71 -2.31 68.50 42.32 Target (TGT) 13.4 77036559 43.66 -7.81

INDEX 196.75 57.50 French Connection * (FCCN:L) 207.7 1275263 65.00 0.00 1.30 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 72296 0.61 0.00 Gainers Change 22.02 14.77 Gap (GPS) 13.1 50576693 16.83 -1.54 92.35 41.30 Taubman (TCO) 68.4 4052054 41.11 -8.88 Delia’s 22.40 COMPOSITE 57.84 7.08 General Growth (GGP) 31.6 45775208 9.67 -7.38 7.25 1.27 Tefron (TFR) - 38482 1.60 -0.11 Marks & Spencer * 8.37 919.52 48.49 18.76 Genesco (GCO) 6.0 1603797 28.38 -7.06 57.34 32.84 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 12.4 13084881 32.34 -4.39 23.00 10.73 G-III Apparel (GIII) 20.3 666134 15.58 -3.28 21.90 12.83 Timberland (TBL) 20.6 2624217 15.98 -1.15 Orchids Paper 7.69 46.47 21.50 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 15.9 4012620 21.73 -2.23 37.52 25.49 TJX Cos. (TJX) 14.1 39873967 29.87 -2.09 Charles & Colvard 5.28 24.73 8.45 Glimcher (GRT) 5.6 1889835 8.39 -1.98 64.48 29.50 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 14.1 454333 35.82 -1.31 Hermès * 3.63 44.46 28.08 G&K (GKSR) 14.1 334081 30.77 -4.32 31.82 13.89 True Religion (TRLG) 16.9 3052002 23.60 -5.94 5.41 1.24 Gottschalks (GOT) - 96899 1.36 -0.04 35.67 7.75 Tween Brands (TWB) 7.2 2508664 8.78 -0.34 Decliners Change 57.20 29.66 Guess (GES) 13.7 7422173 29.99 -6.91 63.90 23.50 Under Armour (UA) 35.3 4732515 27.01 -6.99 General Growth -43.28 47.69 25.99 Gymboree (GYMB) 11.0 3627836 30.96 -6.30 5.10 1.80 Unifi (UFI) - 3792597 4.65 -0.13 Hartmarx -38.43 15.60 4.00 Hampshire (HAMP:PK) - 10550 6.05 -1.45 38.25 26.15 Unilever (UL) - 4663705 27.71 -0.15 37.73 19.80 Hanesbrands (HBI) 10.7 6212778 18.92 -4.07 38.40 21.25 Urban Outfi tters (URBN) 25.0 32768720 26.55 -8.39 CBL -31.21 -74.07 5.47 0.95 Hartmarx (HMX) - 222576 1.33 -0.83 87.36 63.68 VF Corp. (VFC) 13.1 5391292 72.41 -7.82 Tandy Brands -30.62 325.50 265.00 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:S) 15.6 46198020 280.50 -42.50 45.00 13.82 Volcom (VLCM) 10.9 2006732 15.27 -2.90 Fredericks of Hollywood -27.71 118.80 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 41.7 1987923 112.90 3.95 63.85 42.50 Wal-Mart (WMT) 17.6 128702873 59.73 -0.98 8.97 3.90 Hot Topic (HOTT) 15.8 2083043 5.66 -0.81 53.89 36.38 Warnaco (WRC) 29.9 6311891 39.75 -9.30 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of 29.11 14.71 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 14110766 16.06 -0.94 45.00 26.77 Weingarten (WRI) 14.4 8048962 30.00 -5.43 their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange 24.04 10.26 Iconix (ICON) 11.4 9506339 11.87 -1.19 41.99 24.14 Weyco (WEYS) 17.3 66285 30.36 -3.46 are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quot- 53.90 26.08 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 14.4 19502352 29.09 -2.79 31.21 19.85 Wolverine (WWW) 13.3 3739343 25.93 -0.74 ed in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 19.96 9.03 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 15.7 571916 12.78 -1.73 30.89 12.48 Zale (ZLC) 96.3 2809362 24.03 -0.80 26 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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DIRECTOR OF CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS & PUBLIC RELATIONS CONTROLLER Timex Group seeks Director of Corporate Communications and Public Relations to develop and execute public relations, Designer/Product Mgr Fleet Street Ltd - a NYC based women’s apparel communications and corporate affairs programs in support firm seeks a hands on Controller. of building Timex Group brand awareness through media Leading eyewear company seeks relations, public relations and employee initiatives. Candidate Designer/ Product Manager for high profile brand. Responsibilities Reporting directly to the CFO, candidate must be an inde- will write press releases, speeches and other corporate pendent thinker with strong operations skills, responsibility communications and stage corporate events. include development of product from CAD design through sample for all phases of finance, banking, preparing annual projec- Showrooms & Lofts Candidate will have 8-10 years experience in corporate or launch including color & trend tions, monthly financial statements and annual audits. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail agency PR. Fashion, watch & jewelry industry experience a plus. analysis and communication with ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Position requires excellent written and verbal communications , factories. Individual must have at Min 5 yrs related apparel exp. Forward res and sal req to: planning, time management and organizational skills. Ability to least 3 yrs experience, preferably in [email protected] or Fax: 732-382-7419 work effectively under deadline pressures, flexibility with eyewear, and should be motivated schedule and ability to travel are also important. Candidate and skilled to handle multiple will work in CT and NY. tasks, work under pressure and New York Apparel Co., located in Timex Group companies are privately-held and manufacture meet deadlines. Pls e-mail resume PREMIER BROADWAY LOCATION to: [email protected] looks to share part of our beautiful and market watches under numerous brands in many different showroom/offices w/another Apparel Co. market segments, including Timex, TX, Timex Ironman, Timex Please contact Larry at: 212-719-0300 Expedition, Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Vincent Berard, Showroom for Rent Versus, Guess, GC, Marc Ecko, and Nautica. Beautiful, lge shrm to share & private A leading Women’s Sportswear Co, office At 1400 Broadway. Pls contact Send your resume and salary history in care of Mauro A. [email protected] or call: 917 576 5549 DESIGNERS with excellent design, manufactur- Calcano, SVP Human Resources, Timex Group at: SALES ACCOUNT Showroom /Office for Rent [email protected] At Ann Taylor, we recognize that ing, and sourcing novelty textile 389 Fifth Ave – 500 sf. / $1500 mon talented associates are a great capabilities is seeking a talented, EXECUTIVE Slat walled w/shelves & desks competitive advantage. We strive motivated and charismatic Luxury designer jewelry company Call Peter: 212-683-1900 to match individual talents to the personality to head sales for their seeks experienced wholesale right role to create a perfect fit. new scarf division. Successful salesperson for maintaining and Showroom to Share We are currently hiring for Design- 1407 Broadway. 800 sq. ft. available. candidate must have exceptional building specialty store accounts. E: [email protected] ers for both Ann Taylor Stores PRODUCTION MANAGER leadership, organizational skills, as Candidate will have good organi- and LOFT. You may learn more zational skills and ability to multi Devi Kroell, a high end luxury fashion & accessory and apply online at : well as strong relationships with scarves/accessories buyers. task. Knowledge of computer designer, is seeking a 5+ years of experience production and QB program. manager for ready to wear. The candidate must be www.anntaylorcareers.com fluent in high end garment construction and Fax or email resume to: patternmaking, hands on, highly organized and detail Production Coord To $50K (212) 941-0336 Sweaters. Bi-lingual Chinese. oriented. Individual will drive the production process [email protected] DIRECTOR OF SALES [email protected] from post show to retail stores by managing production Production or Product Sales director for fashion based company. PATTERNS & SAMPLES budget and timeline, pattern normalization, material Assistant or Coordinator or Manager This department is responsible for devel- Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries oping relationships and generating Men’s and Women’s wear. Perfect fit orders, gradation, manufacturing process (domestic, Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 business w/ key direct accounts domestic Sr. Account Executive Midtown 109 W. 38th 212-398-7700 & international ranging from department 5+ years experience selling costume France, and Italy), and quality control. Positive attitude is stores to smaller specialty based business- jewelry to specialty stores. Salary BOE. Patterns/Samples/Production a must! Production/Sourcing Asst es. All candidates must have experience E-mail: [email protected] Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Leading access co. seeks indiv to assist with sales and new business development KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Gowns custom made & wholesale. Please e-mail all resumes to: Prod/Sourcing Mgr & Designer in very as well as experience in managing and Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 quick paced atmosphere. Daily comm motivating a team of account executives. [email protected] w/overseas vendors; analyze test reports, The individual we are looking to hire PATTERNS, SAMPLES, etc. Good verbal/written/computer skills. must be extremely well organized, con- Min 2-4 yrs exp. Fax res: 212-944-6114 fident and charismatic and have a proven PRODUCTIONS DESIGNER $100-130K. Min 5yrs exp. REPLENISHMENT MGR $80-90k. Strong record of sales success in high-end All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. designing Junior Sportswear. Knits & exp in Walmart retail link. Monitor / fashion. Candidates should have at least Call Sherry 212-719-0622. wovens. To do girls Junior inspired for IN HOUSE QUILT adjust/create replenishment & forecast 7 - 10 years experience as a sales director The John B. Stetson Company, an Target & Walmart. Non-denim. Mdtn. system settings using CPFR. Midtown. for fashion based company. iconic American heritage brand, is PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] 973-564-9236 LINE STYLIST WANTED [email protected] 973-564-9236 COMPENSATION PLAN: seeking an experienced West Coast • The compensation plan includes a Sales Representative for its men’s and PRODUCTIONS Henry Glass & Co., Inc., a leading base salary (commensurate with ladies’ fashion headwear collection. Full service shop to the trade. Sales Assistant $45K Strong contacts in specialty and better fabric manufacturer for Quilt Shops AS400. Great growth opportunity. experience), incentive bonuses, and a Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. DESIGNER $110-150K. Min 5yrs exp benefit package. department stores required. Unique designing girls 4-16 knit & woven Only seeks a creative, exp’d and take [email protected] opportunity to work with management sportswear. Walmart or Target exper Send resume with salary requirements charge person to work in-house de- to: [email protected] to build the brand’s fashion presence, required. Must hang with Children’s signing print groups. Hands on re- SENIOR DESIGNER collaborate with retailers on special Place, Kids Headquarters, Metro 7, etc. Collaborate w/Creative Director of high collections and report on domestic [email protected] 973-564-9236 sponsibility for the entire design -end RTW women’s designer brand in market trends. Excellent compensation process from inception (concept) to developing seasonal RTW & accessory includes salary + commission. Los collections. Qualifications: 5-10 yrs de- Executive Sales Associate Angeles base preferred. No phone calls completion (finishedproduct) includ- sign exp w/global, high-end RTW wom- Major apparel company seeks Executive please. Send resume to: en’s brand, BA in Fashion Design Sales Associate for children’s wear-all [email protected] FACTORY MANAGER $50-60k. Strong ing planning, preparing, engravings, size ranges. Individual will be working exp in men’s pants. Supervise 30 people (Masters pref’d), extensive knowledge strike-offs and merchandising. Will of design techniques incl. fabrication, with mid tier and department store in pant making. Chicago area. accounts and must have experience Admin Since 1967 [email protected] 973-564-9236 work closely with freelance licensors silhouettes, color ways, construction, fin- ishing. Resume [email protected] dealing with buyers. Excellent salary W-I-N-S-T-O-N and existing art department. Ltd and comprehensive benefits package. APPAREL STAFFING travel. Excel salary/benefits package. Email resumes: [email protected] DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Send resume to: [email protected]. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION FACTORY MGR to $75K. Strong exp PLEASE DO NOT CALL (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 managing woven garments factory reqd. Engineering background helpful not nec. Supervise 175. NJ location. APPAREL/HOME FASHION [email protected] 973-564-9236 Merchandising Mgr SRI SEARCH INC 5+ years exp with specialty stores WWW.SRISEARCH.COM for costume jewelry. Salary BOE 212-465-8300 E-mail: [email protected] JODI ARNOLD Allen Platt /Jennifer Glenn KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS [email protected] GRAPHIC DESIGNER Search Account Executive [email protected] Leading children’s gift and apparel Join our growing sales team. Must have 3 PATTERNMAKER $65-80k. Strong exp yrs exp in the contemp mkt. Email: PHI Boutique Soho company in midtown Manhattan is in men’s shirts. Must be able to sew hundreds of looking for a motivated individual to [email protected] Seeks F/T sales associate. Self starter CFO/COO and make a men’s custom shirt. NJ loc. must have 3+ years previous designer join our newborn design team. Atten- [email protected] 973-564-9236 tion to detail and good color and de- positions in retail experience. Must have working $150 - 200K + Bonus client book. Full benefits package Tri-state area’s most prestigious high- sign skills are essential for this fast paced position. Must be proficient in Patternmaker to $120K. Current exp in available. Fax/email resume attn: end fashion retail chain (Nassau County, high priced designer couture/bridge fashion, retail F. Greene: 212-966-7506 or Long Island location) seeks entrepreneur Illustrator and Photoshop. License and Key Account Sales to $100k. Current packaging experience a plus. Fax re- womens sportswr level. Must hang w/ exp in urban Jr. or urban outerwear. [email protected] (CPA or MBA a +) with 7 + years experi- Zac Posen, Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, J. and beauty. ence (retail industry a must). Responsible sume, cover letter and please include Branded. Must have relationships with salary history. 646-478-9617 Mendel etc, to do draping & first pat tern. either specialty stores or off-price or for overseeing all financial, accounting [email protected] 973-564-9236 and analytical functions. Will provide dept stores. Large growing estab co. strategic, operational, budget, planning, [email protected] 973-564-9236 forecasting, and profitability analysis PLANNER ANALYST to $75K. and provide direction for senior manage- Current exp working for a garment co ment. Coordinate business initiatives, GRAPHIC DESIGNER planning retail analysis, replenishment, performance and solutions. Provide Major apparel co. seeks graphic designer inventory. Will create systems to be initi- analysis of sales data, overheads and with junior girls experience. Individual ated for use with vendor client. Mdtn. [email protected] 973-564-9236 Marketing/Sales Manager margins. Supervise and support infra- must be creative and detail oriented. High-end ladies RTW & Couture Fashion structure, systems, inventory and distri- Responsibilities include executing the House is seeking a Marketing/Sales Mgr bution. Maintain banking relations and art from start to finished packages for Product Development w/ 5+ yrs exp with retail & store buyers. assess investment opportunities. Will production. Will work with mock up Manager Pls call: 212-967-5044 or e-mail resume manage all aspects of financial business. samples and embroidery dept. Must be to: [email protected] Report to principal. able to work in fast paced environment. Major apparel co seeks individual for product development position. Responsi- Send resume in MS Word format to: E-mail resumes to: [email protected] bilities include reviewing design [email protected] worksheets and coordinating information between design dept and production DESIGN ASSISTANT dept. Focus on sampling, fabric, and SALES ASSISTANT Leading Jr. swtr/knit importer seeking accessories. Must have good communica- Fast paced Jr. Knit/Swtr importer HEAD DESIGNER tion, organization, and computer skills. designer w/ strong creative and techni- 5+ years exp designing costume seeking highly motivated, organized, cal skills: flat sketch, teck packs, Garment construction knowledge, fabric team player w/ strong computer skills. jewelry for specialty stores. CAD development, and Wal-mart experience a CADs. Must be organized, detail & Tech skills a must. Salary BOE. Will train, must have positive attitude, Accessories Sales Executive: oriented & highly proficient in plus. Must be able to travel overseas. eager to learn all aspects of sales, w/ Great Contacts at Majors: Looking for E-mail: [email protected] E-mail resumes to: Illustrator, PhotoShop, Excel. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS potential to grow. opportunity to build your business: Please e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Please e-mail: [email protected] Please Call: Brian: 609 519 1399 Your business success is out there. Is your bank?

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