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Ooh La La! Ooh La for Moreontheshows,Seepages8to 15And19

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Ooh La La! Ooh La for Moreontheshows,Seepages8to 15And19 ▲ REVIEWS: ▲ Q&A: Marvin On WWD.COM Chanel, Traub on his new Alexander book, page 18. McQueen, Paris Fashion Week Hermès Shows, Parties, and more, and Scoops PARIS pages 8 to 15. ▲ ACCESSORIES: spring ’09 The trends from Paris, page 19. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • OctoberMONDAY 6, 2008 • The Retailers’lers’ DaDDailyili y NewspaperNeNewwssppaapeper • $2.00$2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Ooh La La! The spring collection Marc Jacobs showed for Louis Vuitton on Sunday was an exuberant riff on French style, from its Edith Piaf soundtrack to a colorful tribute to Yves Saint Laurent. It was all wonderfully upbeat, a quality expressed in more-is-more mixes of materials and in beautiful real clothes. Here, a vibrant feather-and-metallic leather concoction. For more on the shows, see pages 8 to 15 and 19. Valentino’s New Team: Chiuri and Piccioli Aim To Build on Tradition By Alessandra Ilari MILAN — Evolution over revolution — that’s what accessories designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli plan for Valentino’s ready-to-wear now that they’ve been given sole creative control of the iconic Italian fashion brand. Chiuri and Piccioli were tapped Friday to replace Alessandra Facchinetti, who was abruptly dismissed as creative director after a week of feverish speculation surrounding the company during the Paris shows. Facchinetti lasted only two rtw collections and one couture season. Her firing ironically came after a well- received second effort for the house last week. News of her departure and the appointment of Chiuri, 44, and Piccioli, 41, was first reported Friday on WWD.com. See Accessories, Page17 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY ESPRIT — A LOVE STORY All empires start somewhere. The fashion phenomenon that is Esprit began with a raised thumb and a foot on the brake in July 1963. Twenty-year-old Susie Russel was driving up to Tahoe City to work in her summer job as a keno runner at the Cal-Neva casino, when she spied a guy bumming a ride on Route 89 near Emerald Bay. She slowed her burgundy Beetle. She always picked up hitchhikers. Everyone did. This was the sixties. Besides, the guy by the side of the road was cute. “He was a tree-topper, so he was kind of rugged,” she recalls. “Clean but rugged.” She stopped her bug, and Doug Tompkins jumped in. Tompkins, twenty years old, was an Eastern preppie who had come to California hoping to make the US ski team and compete in the 1964 Winter Olympics. He ended up trimming trees instead. “He was from upstate New York and had this attitude that the East was the better coast,” she recalls. He told her he attended Harvard, figuring she’d be impressed. He didn’t; she wasn’t. Instead she was irked. Such a back-East thing, pulling rank. “If you’re too cool, you can get out now,” she told him. But Doug didn’t budge. Susie had a blonde ponytail, bare feet and a way about her that made a man invent an Ivy League résumé. She dropped him in town, a bit relieved. But he stuck in her mind. And he kept turning up in the Tahoe social ecosystem. She saw him again at a party. And again after that. She loaned him sixty dollars. When the summer ended, she went with him on a surfing trip to Mexico. One thing led to another. The two wed that November. In 1967 they started Plain Jane, a dress label that eventually evolved into Esprit in 1968. 4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2008 WWD.COM Economic News Weighs on Retail Shares By Evan Clark ly ease the fl ow of credit as banks are able to rid WWDMONDAY their balance sheets of toxic mortgage debt and Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear THE BANKS GOT THEIR $700 BILLION BAILOUT return to more normal lending activities, whether from Washington Friday, but retailers got more bad to each other, corporations or consumers. FASHION economic news to dampen their holiday spirits. On the employment front, department stores The highlights of the Paris spring shows included ▲ 8 The U.S. shed a seasonally adjusted 159,000 took a beating, cutting payrolls by 10,800 jobs collections from Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Alexander jobs in September, which was the largest decline in September, according to a monthly Labor McQueen and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton. in more than fi ve years and included the loss of Department report. 41,000 retail positions. That marks nine straight It was the largest decline in the retail trade GENERAL months of shrinking employment for a total of sector in September. Of the 276,000 jobs lost in re- 1 Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, 760,000 jobs lost so far this year and another tail since December 2007, a substantial portion of the longtime accessories duo at Valentino, will serious blow to consumer sentiment. A surge of them, 60,300 positions, were at department stores. succeed Alessandra Facchinetti as rtw designer. new jobs at specialty stores, however, pushed For the fi rst time since 1990, the earliest date their payrolls higher than those of department for which records were available, the number of 6 EYE: It may be risky waiting four years to release stores for the fi rst time on record. people employed by specialty stores, 1,500,900, a second album, but for Jem, who recently issued The Standard & Poor’s Retail Index fi nished was higher, by 600, than the employee count at “Down To Earth,” timing is everything. the day down 2.8 percent, or 9.50 points, to 331.83. department stores. Last month, apparel and ac- ACCESSORIES: Soft handbags in strong vivid Retail stocks fell a total of 11.7 percent last week. cessories specialty stores added 2,600 positions. 20 colors and voluminous shapes, with shiny details, The broader market fared somewhat better, with “Call it the death of the department store,” the Dow Jones Industrial Average off 1.5 percent, said Richard Yamarone, director of economic topped the trends at the Mipel show. or 157.47 points, to 10,325.38 on Friday, making for research for Argus Research Corp. 21 JEWELRY: Gedalio “Gerry” Grinberg, who helped a fall of 7.3 percent for the week. Department store staff levels peaked in 2001 turn Americans on to luxury watches, refl ects on The commotion on Wall Street and the broad and have declined since then, while specialty his career at Movado Group, as he retires. economic weakness has prompted many to stores have increased the size of their workforce, reevaluate the prospects for retailers in the he said. 22 INNERWEAR: The Underfashion Club staged a fourth quarter, even though chains have spent Industry mergers and the rise of Internet seminar called “Rising to the Occasion: Keeping much of the year readying themselves for some shopping have contributed to declining depart- Your Brand on Top in a Down Market.” tough sledding. ment store payrolls, Yamarone said. 25 Congress sent a multifaceted trade bill to President The U.S. apparel Chanel Bush that renews duty free apparel benefi ts to manufacturing sector Sub-Sahara African and Andean countries. also continued to lose jobs. Apparel manufac- Classifi ed Advertisements...........................................................................................26-27 turers trimmed head TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS counts by 2,400, while [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. textile mills that manu- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 facture apparel fabric FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. shed 1,300 positions. VOLUME 196, NO. 73. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and Textile product mills November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division that make home furnish- of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services ing fabrics expanded provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice payrolls by 200 jobs. President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post The downward Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. plunge in overall em- Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA ployment last month 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please was fueled by steep job write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. losses in the retail trade, Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S construction and manu- WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 facturing segments. The or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the unemployment rate was World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com.
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