Textile and Apparel Industry Addresses Emerging Issue of Microfiber Pollution

Volume 10, Issue 4, 2018

Karen K. Leonas, Professor, Textile and Apparel. Technology and Management College of Textiles, NC State University, Raleigh, NC USA

Introduction this issue. Collaboration among the many Plastics in our waterways, their impact disciplines will be necessary to develop a on marine wildlife and the ecosystem, have better understanding of the underlying causes been of concern and reported on for many and propose feasible solutions to address this years (Buchanan, 1971; Carpenter, concern. Anderson, Harvey, Miklas, & Beck, 1972; The textile and apparel industry is Carpenter & Smith, 1972). More recently, relatively complex and many disciplines are microplastics (plastic fragments less than five involved in the development and design of millimeters in diameter) have been found fibers, fabrics and textile containing products around the world in the ocean and other (Cao, Zhang, Kim & Keng, 2005). Textile waterways. There has been increasing products are diverse in nature as are the concern regarding a microplastic subcategory markets in which they are found. As an referred to as microfibers. Microfibers have industry, there is increased awareness, a fibrous shape and are less than five attention to, and programs underdevelopment millimeters in length and being synthetic in to address microfiber release as it influences nature (Hartline et al., 2017). Microfiber the microplastic pollution issue. Throughout pollution is an emerging issue and research is the industry, a multipronged approach with ongoing by those in the environmental several foci including short term and long- sciences, textile sciences, apparel term goals. In the short term, strategies to technology, apparel brands and retailers to eliminate microfibers released from textile better understand and mitigate the associated products from entering the waterways are impacts. Numerous researchers have under evaluation. As traditional laundering identified Issues related to microplastic of apparel and home textiles was identified as pollution (Geyer, 2018, Thompson et al. a source of the microfibers entering 2004, Browne et al. 2011) and succinctly waterways, mitigation and reduction would summarized by Weiss (2017). Although include shifts in textiles laundering much attention has focused on the recommendations and the implementation of microfibers in our waterways, they are also procedures/processes to effectively capture prominent on land and in the air. Like many those fibers released. For the long term, it of today’s global challenges, this is a will be necessary to take a more holistic, complex issue and to develop effective systematic approach including evaluation of solutions it will require expertise from material design, apparel design and different scientific disciplines to investigate recommended after purchase care procedures

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that will optimize the reduction of fiber well as those who provide third party release and capture of released fibers during services. Collaborative efforts are more the material lifecycle. An essential effective when they are developed in safe component in effectively addressing the issue non-competitive spaces, the work is on will be the collaboration among stakeholders shared issues, and there is the goal to develop identifying practices for adoption, and then more sustainable practices with reduced risk. scaled across not only the textile and apparel The Outdoor Industry Association industry, but also related industries including (OIA) has been a long time leader in appliance manufacturers, wastewater addressing environmental issues through treatment facilities and participation of the their Sustainability Working Group (SWG) consumer. where the goals are to share the best Since microplastics were identified in sustainability practices, develop better the environment in 2004 (Thompson, et al.) products, and drive meaningful change. and then microfibers directly linked to the (OIA) As early as 2015 they recognized the textile and apparel products in 2011 (Browne, connections between microplastics and et al.), research has focused on developing a microfibers to apparel products and within better understand the problem by evaluating the SWG, a subgroup focused on microfibers the data available and creating data in an was created and resources were, and are organized, collaborative fashion to generate currently being developed. One resource of credible data for study. Eumonia (2016) this group included the identification of estimated that the annual microfiber release organizations, researchers, and institutions from textiles (apparel) into the marine that are investigating both impacts and environment was 0.19 million tons annually. possible solutions. Another resource is a Currently the understanding of movement of microfiber toolkit available for download microfibers into the oceans, freshwater from the OIA website. (OIA) In July of 2018 systems, air and terrestrial environment is an OIA Microfiber Research Cohort was very limited (Geyer, 2018). launched which is a collaborative effort with the European Outdoor Group Microfibers Work throughout the Textile and Apparel Consortium. The SWG working group meets Industry regularly and provides updated information. There are a number of retailers, brands They have partnered with other groups and organizations working collaborative around the world, like the EOG who have a toward sustainability in the supply chain. A shared interest and stakeholders. In March few umbrella organizations including The 2018, the OIA Microfibers Task Force Sustainability Consortium , Sustainable identified the following four focuses for next Apparel Coalition, The Textile Exchange, steps: 1) Developing standardized test American Apparel and Footwear methodologies for fabric/fiber shedding, 2) Association, Outdoor Industry Association, Collecting, sharing, and implementing best European Outdoor Group, and the National practices in the production process, 3) Council of Textile Organizations, are Communicating externally industry work working collaborative with retailers, brands, plans and next steps, and 4) Fostering key environmental scientist, and others in the partnerships (Jensen, 2018) textile and apparel supply chain to gain an The American Associate of Textile understanding of the fiber release mechanism Color and Chemists (AATCC), an and the entry of microplastics/fibers into association that serves the textile and waterways. This paper will report on some materials industry professionals highlighted of the recent and current efforts. It is the topic as a cover story “Microfiber important to note, that the memberships of shedding: Hidden Environmental Impact” in several the organizations here include the September/October 2017 AATCC representatives from many textile and apparel Review acknowledging microfiber release as companies at all levels of the supply chain as a critical issue. (Le, 2017) In November

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2017, the AATCC Global Sustainability Company (Kolgerg, 2017), WWF Germany, Technology Committee, RA100 with the National Association of the German Sporting scope “To disseminate and exchange Good Industry, BSI, Hochsehule Niederrhein knowledge on current developments and Texttile and Clothing faculty, and Miele & industry practice in the fields of Cie, KG are key partners. (Kolberg, 2017). sustainability, human health, product safety In 2014 the LIFE-MERMAIDS - and the environment for the textile and its Mitigation of supplier industries; and to provide a forum microplastics impact caused by textile for discussion of related federal and state washing processes was funded in part by the legislation, and rules and regulations of European Union. The multidisciplinary government agencies.” (AATCC, 2018) consortium includes partners from CNR, began focusing their efforts on this topic. National Research Council, Leitat, Plastic Work includes the development of a standard Soup Foundation, and Polysistec. The test method to quantify the fibers released; objective of this project was to contribute to examination of various textile constructions the Mitigation of the environmental impact of and their impact on fiber release including microplastic particles resulting from laundry fiber content, yarn construction, fabric wastewater. (Avella, 2014) construction and finishes; laundering and In 2017, the Coastal Ocean Research care procedures and their impact on fiber Institute (CORI) launched a comprehensive release; and communication with appliance microfiber study and have funding from manufacturers regarding home laundering various sources including Mountain equipment are all topics of discussion within Equipment Co-Op, ArcTeyx, Patagonia, and this group. The committee has regularly REI. The desired results of this research is to scheduled conference calls and in-person be able to identify a brand or specific piece of meetings semi-annually. There are currently clothing that shed a specific microfiber found 55 committee members from textile brands, in the environment. The aquarium’s ocean manufacturers, universities, retailers, pollution research program director and research institutes, and others contributing to senior scientist Peter Ross will lead the this effort. yearlong project. (O’Connor, 2017) The American Apparel and Footwear In reviewing some of the efforts, COIR Association (AAFA) represents more than and LIFE-MERMAIDS specifically, their 1,000 companies in the apparel, footwear, research teams seem to be lacking textile accessory and retail supply chain including scientists from the academy that would be textile suppliers, testing labs, manufacturers able to provide a theoretical understanding of and retailers. In addition to other goals, they the textile products, actions and properties provide insights on emerging issues and a that enhance and inhibit microfiber release. collaborative forum for discussion of best This would include details on the chemical practices and innovation. Identifying composition and physical characteristics of microfiber pollution as a critical issue, they the fibers, yarn structure, fabric structure, provided a webinar on this topic in chemical and/or mechanical finishes, seam September 2018 that was open to the and stitch impacts. Although there are industry. (AAFA, 2018) representatives from apparel brands and TextileMission, a joint project that retailers, the research would be strengthened began in September 2017, aims to reduce the with contributions from experts in this micro-plastic particle release that originates discipline. As this is a global issue, the from man-made synthetic fibers. The project European Outdoor Group (EOG) has also is funded by the German Federal Ministry of expressed concern and interest in this area. Education and Research. Companies within They note the importance of including those the textile and apparel supply chain including with an in-depth knowledge of textiles as Adidas AG, Henkel AG & Co, KG, being better suited and are encouraging the Polartec., LLC, VAUDE Sport GMbH &

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textile industry to lead research on fiber loss. to be able to be tested at the mill level, (O’Connor, 2017B) allowing them to test the same material with different attributes,” (Le, 2017). Identifying a New Technologies and Eco-Friendly solution will require the continued Materials collaboration of stakeholders throughout the CiCLO is a new textile technology that supply chain in an effort to understand the allows polyester to biodegrade more like causes, continue research, and recommend natural fibers in conditions found in solutions through discussions. wastewater treatment plant and landfills. Intrinsic Textiles Group developed this The Way Forward technology; they recently partnered with It is critical that that a multidisciplinary Parkdale Advances Materials, a division of collaborative approach be used to address the Parkdale Inc., forming a joint venture. The issue of microfiber release into the technology is a proprietary additive to environment. The global textile complex and Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) during related consortiums are addressing extrusion that enables biodegradation of the microfiber release concerns through fiber at rates similar to that of natural fibers continued research to develop a better such as wool (Ferris, 2018). understanding of the release mechanism, Mango Materials is developing a pathways to the environment, the polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) based development of innovations, and application biodegradable plastic compatible with other of technology to mitigate the initial fiber natural textile materials. It is a biopolyester release. Textile scientists working in the that will biodegrade in both industrial and academy, industry and consortiums are natural environments (Mango Materials, addressing this issue and looking for 2018). partnerships with other disciplines and Vaude is actively involved in the consortium industries to develop and move best practice project “TextileMission” with the goal to solutions forward. The textile scientist can reduce the environmental impact of provide insight on fiber chemistry, yarn microfibers. They are investing the use of production and performance, fabric wood-based fibers (Lyocell), and blending production and performance, chemical and milk based fibers (QMILK) with wool fibers mechanical finishing, and apparel to produce their QMILK-felt. (VAUDE, construction necessary in developing and 2018) through understanding of the release mechanism. Working collaboratively with Developments to address the release of those in other areas including environmental microfibers/plastics science, waste water treatment, appliance New research must consider a broader manufacturers and consumers, the ability to range of stakeholders including textile and develop materials to meet the aesthetic and apparel companies that are incredibly performance demands of society, while important in addressing this issue. Regarding having zero net impact on the environment, is textile companies, Nick Mallos Director of possible and exciting. the Trash Free Seas Alliance stated, “They need to come to the table and communicate References with the leading researchers in this space in Avella, M. (2014). LIFE - MERMAIDS - developing a list of priority research Mitigation of microplastics impact questions.” and “We need their input to caused by textile washing processes. inform and ensure that this research is not Retrieved from done in a vacuum and it is applicable for their http://ec.europa.eu/environment/life/pr processes,” (Le, 2017). Heather Shields, the oject/Projects/index.cfm?fuseaction=s chair of the AATCC RA 100 Committee, said earch.dspPage&n_proj_id=4973&doc regarding the committee work, “We want this Type=pdf

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Browne, M. A., Crump, P., Niven, S. J., Ferris, A. (2018, September 12). Parkdale Teuten, E., Tonkin, A., Galloway, T., Mills and Intrinsic Textiles team up to & Thompson, R. (2011). reduce synthetic microfiber pollution Accumulation of microplastic on and textile waste. Retrieved from shorelines woldwide: sources and https://www.parkdalemills.com/2018/ sinks. Environmental science & 09/12/parkdale-mills-and-intrinsic- technology, 45(21), 9175-9179. textiles-team-up-to-reduce-synthetic- Bruce, N., Hartline, N., Karba, S., Ruff, B., microfiber-pollution-and-textile- Sonar, S., & Holden, P. (2016). waste/ Microfiber pollution and the apparel Geyer, R. (2018, March 12). Microfibers in industry. University of California Context: Global plastic production, Santa Barbara, Bren School of use, and releases. [Webinar]. In Environmental Science & AATCC RA100 Webinar Series. Management. Retrieved from Hodgson, N. (2015, July 2). Microplastics, http://www.esm.ucsb.edu/research/20 Microfibers, Pollution and…The 16Group_Projects/documents/PataPla Outdoor Industry. Retrieved from stFinalReport.pdf https://outdoorindustry.org/article/mic Buchanan, J. B. (1971). Pollution by roplastics-microfibers-pollution-and- synthetic fibres. Marine Pollution the-outdoor-industry/ Bulletin, 2(2), 23. doi: 10.1016/0025- Horwitch, R. (2018, September 12). 326X(71)90136-6 Microfiber Discharge: What should Cao, N., Zhang, Z. M., To, K. M. C., & Ng, you do? [Webinar]. In AAFA Webinar K. P. R. (2005). Structures of textile- Series. Retrieved from apparel supply chain: concepts and https://www.aafaglobal.org/AAFA/Ev cases. Journal of Dong Hua University ents/Event_Display.aspx?EventKey= (English Edition). Retrieved from WEB180912&WebsiteKey=49c45f4d https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/84389 -69b3-4c66-823a-6d285960fed2 926.pdf Jensen, B. (2018, March 20). Microfibers and Carpenter, E. J., Anderson, S. J., Harvey, G. the Outdoor Industry. [Webinar]. In R., Miklas, H. P., & Peck, B. B. (1972). AATCC RA 100 Webinar Series. Polystyrene spherules in coastal Kolberg, A. (2017, September 13). Initiative waters. Science, 178(4062), 749-750. against Micro-plastic Release in doi: 10.1126/science.178.4062.749 Environment Sporting Goods Carpenter, E. J., & Smith, K. L. (1972). Manufacturers Conduct a Research in Plastics on the Sargasso Sea surface. Collaboration with Two Universities Science, 175(4027), 1240-1241. and an Environmental Organisation. doi: 10.1126/science.175.4027.1240Cr Retrieved from https://csr- ossRefGoogle Scholar report.vaude.com/gri- Eunomia. (2016, June). Plastics in the Marine wAssets/pdf/News-2017/Press- Environment. Retrieved from Release_TextileMission_13.09.2017_ https://safety4sea.com/wp- en.cleaned.pdf content/uploads/2016/06/Eunomia- Le, K. (2017). Microfiber Shedding: Hidden Plastics-in-the-Marine-Environment- Environmental Impact. AATCC 2016_06.pdf Review, 17(5), 30-37.

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MangoMaterials. (n.d.) Retrieved from RA100 Global Sustainability Technology. http://mangomaterials.com/application (n.d.). Retrieved from s/ https://members.aatcc.org/4DCGI/co MERMAIDS. (n.d.) Retrieved from mmittees/Roles.html?Action=Show_C http://life-mermaids.eu/en/ omm_Roles&CommCode=AATCCR O’Connor, M.C. (2017, May 25). Your A100&Name=Officers&Status=Activ Fleece Jacket Pollutes the Ocean. e Here’s the Possible Fix. Outside. Thompson, R. C., Olsen, Y., Mitchell, R. P., Retrieved from Davis, A., Rowland, S. J., John, A. W., https://www.outsideonline.com/21794 ... & Russell, A. E. (2004). Lost at sea: 11/your-fleece-jacket-pollutes-ocean- where is all the heres-possible-fix plastic?. Science, 304(5672), 838-838. O’Connor, M.C. (2018, August 16). As Retrieved from Synthetic Microfibers Infiltrate Food, https://www.jstor.org/stable/3836916 Water and Air, How can we Prevent VAUDE. (n.d.). Retrieved from Future Release?. GreenBiz. Retrieved https://www.vaude.com/en-INT/ from Weis, J. S. (2018). Cooperative Work is https://www.greenbiz.com/article/micr Needed Between Textile Scientists and ofibers-infiltrate-food-water-and-air- Environmental Scientists to Tackle the how-can-we-prevent-future-release Problems of Pollution by Outdoor Industry Association (OIA). Microfibers. Journal of Textile and Retrieved from Apparel, Technology and https://outdoorindustry.org/sustainable Management, 10(3). -business/

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