Mapping Sustainable Textile Initiatives
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TemaNord 2015:545 TemaNord TemaNord 2015:545 TemaNord Ved Stranden 18 DK-1061 Copenhagen K www.norden.org Mapping sustainable textile initiatives And a potential roadmap for a Nordic actionplan Mapping sustainable textile initiatives XX TemaNord 2015:545 ISBN 978-92-893-4211-7 (PRINT) ISBN 978-92-893-4212-4 (PDF) ISBN 978-92-893-4213-1 (EPUB) ISSN 0908-6692 TN2015545 omslag.indd 1 16-06-2015 11:15:18 Mapping sustainable textile initiatives And a potential roadmap for a Nordic actionplan Ingun Grimstad Klepp (project leader) Kirsi Laitala, Michael Schragger, Andreas Follér, Elin Paulander, Tone Skårdal Tobiasson, Jonas Eder-Hansen, David Palm, Maria Elander, Tomas Rydberg, David Watson and Nikola Kiørboe TemaNord 2015:545 Mapping sustainable textile initiatives And a potential roadmap for a Nordic actionplan Ingun Grimstad Klepp (project leader) Kirsi Laitala, Michael Schragger, Andreas Follér, Elin Paulander, Tone Skårdal Tobiasson, Jonas Eder-Hansen, David Palm, Maria Elander, Tomas Rydberg, David Watson and Nikola Kiørboe ISBN 978-92-893-4211-7 (PRINT) ISBN 978-92-893-4212-4 (PDF) ISBN 978-92-893-4213-1 (EPUB) http://dx.doi.org/10.6027/TN2015-545 TemaNord 2015:545 ISSN 0908-6692 © Nordic Council of Ministers 2015 Layout: Hanne Lebech Cover photo: ImageSelect Print: Rosendahls-Schultz Grafisk Printed in Denmark This publication has been published with financial support by the Nordic Council of Ministers. However, the contents of this publication do not necessarily reflect the views, policies or recom- mendations of the Nordic Council of Ministers. www.norden.org/nordpub Nordic co-operation Nordic co-operation is one of the world’s most extensive forms of regional collaboration, involv- ing Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, and the Faroe Islands, Greenland, and Åland. Nordic co-operation has firm traditions in politics, the economy, and culture. It plays an im- portant role in European and international collaboration, and aims at creating a strong Nordic community in a strong Europe. Nordic co-operation seeks to safeguard Nordic and regional interests and principles in the global community. Common Nordic values help the region solidify its position as one of the world’s most innovative and competitive. Nordic Council of Ministers Ved Stranden 18 DK-1061 Copenhagen K Phone (+45) 3396 0200 www.norden.org Contents Summary............................................................................................................................................................. 7 Preface ...............................................................................................................................................................11 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................................13 Definitions and limitations ..............................................................................................................15 Abbreviations .........................................................................................................................................15 1. Inspiration................................................................................................................................................17 1.1 The four Rs ................................................................................................................................18 1.2 Replace ........................................................................................................................................19 1.3 Reduce .........................................................................................................................................23 1.4 Redirect .......................................................................................................................................25 1.5 Rethink ........................................................................................................................................28 1.6 Conclusions ...............................................................................................................................30 2. Stakeholder views ................................................................................................................................33 2.1 Important findings .................................................................................................................34 2.2 Stakeholder survey ................................................................................................................34 2.3 Responsibility without means..........................................................................................35 2.4 Consumer perspectives in five European countries ..............................................40 2.5 Other stakeholders ................................................................................................................47 2.6 Quality requirements in eco-labels ................................................................................49 3. Methodology development ..............................................................................................................51 3.1 Framework of focus areas ..................................................................................................51 3.2 Initiative Matrix Template .................................................................................................53 4. Mapping of initiatives .........................................................................................................................59 4.1 Limitations .................................................................................................................................59 4.2 International .............................................................................................................................60 4.3 Nordic initiatives ....................................................................................................................77 4.4 Conclusions ...............................................................................................................................81 5. Assessment ..............................................................................................................................................83 5.1 Important findings .................................................................................................................83 5.2 Strengths and weaknesses of the initiatives (A) .....................................................85 5.3 Unexplored areas and further research (B) ..............................................................90 5.4 Nordic positions of strength (C) ......................................................................................97 5.5 Synergies between policy areas (D) ........................................................................... 108 6. Plan for a Nordic Roadmap ........................................................................................................... 119 6.1 Important recommendations ........................................................................................ 119 6.2 Scope and limitations ........................................................................................................ 120 6.3 Replace ..................................................................................................................................... 121 6.4 Reduce ...................................................................................................................................... 122 6.5 Redirect .................................................................................................................................... 123 6.6 Rethink ..................................................................................................................................... 123 6.7 Potential of the four Rs ..................................................................................................... 124 6.8 The whole sector.................................................................................................................. 125 6.9 Nordic engagement ............................................................................................................ 126 6.10 Coordinating with international projects ................................................................ 128 6.11 Hazardous chemicals ......................................................................................................... 129 6.12 Knowledge-building ........................................................................................................... 130 6.13 Education, public debate and bottoms-up............................................................... 131 6.14 Goals........................................................................................................................................... 131 7. Conclusions ........................................................................................................................................... 133 References ..................................................................................................................................................... 137 Sammendrag ................................................................................................................................................ 145 Appendix 1: Feedback from stakeholders