PARIS SAVVY. OPINIONATED. INSPIRED. GAY. 2016 MASTERFILE PARIS: MANABOUTWORLD MASTERFILE

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CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION GAY PARIS WHERE WE STAY: RIVE DROITE WHERE WE STAY: RIVE GAUCHE WHERE WE EAT WHERE WE PLAY/MEET WHERE WE SHOP WHAT WE SEE/DO TOURIST OR TRAVELIST WHERE WE WORKOUT GET SMART

Cover Photo Credit: (cc) juanetdc.com Thanks for reading ManAboutWorld Magazine. © ManAboutWorld Incorporated 2012-2016. All rights reserved, except for photographs used under a Creative Commons share and share alike license (cc), which are not subject to our copyright. INTRODUCTION: #YAYFORPARIS

Paris has a magical attraction for travelers of all orientations. Europe’s grandest capital is the planet’s premier stage for romance. Spared destruction in WWII at great cost paid on the western front, the city’s grand archi- tecture impresses with its ornate magnificence at every turn. On the world stage it may have competition as a center of fashion, style, food and art, but when it comes to romance, nowhere else comes close. From strolls along the Seine, to picnics in its gardens, to stolen kisses atop the Eiffel Tower, Paris is filled with moments made for two.

For single travelers, Paris demands an attitude check: If you’re the type to stroll its streets with a nagging feeling of “if only I had a boyfriend/husband/unrequited love/trick to share this with,” go somewhere else. If you can silence that voice, Paris offers gay singles all of the attractions of a major world capital: endless activities to fill your days, and a vibrant nightlife scene of bars, clubs, parties, baths and sex-on-premises venues. And there’s definitely something to be said for not having to share your lastLadurée Macaron. http://www.laduree. fr/en/histoire/macaron

Our hotel coverage, like Paris itself, is divided by the Seine into Left and Right Banks (Rive Gauche and Rive Droite, respectively). To make planning more convenient, we’ve also separated culture, food and gay life into their own sections, along with a separate planning section that shares our best tips and strategies for visiting the city of lights. We’ve also created Tourist/Travelist guides for the city’s most popular attractions; with some- thing like 27 million visitors a year — all trying to catch a glimpse of Mona Lisa’s smile — you’ll be thankful for our insider tips to avoid standing in line behind them.

We love Paris every time of the year, but if you’re looking to schedule your visit around a special event, here are a few to consider: EVENTS TO PLAN AROUND

Marvellous Island http://marvellous-island.fr/ In May five of the best organizers of gay parties — Matinée, Spyce, Code 69, Crazyvore, Club Sandwich — put aside their competition and join forces to put on a unique outdoor event in the Bois de Vincennes.

International Gay Tournament of Paris http://www.paris-tournament.com The Paris International Tournament organized by the French Gay and Lesbian Sports Federation (FSFL) takes place in May and features over 20 sports in competitions and workshops, along with social events, such as the famous TIP Party on Sunday night. Fifteen hundred athletes from all over the world come to Paris for this great event — even if you’re not participating, show your support and meet some hot athletes.

French Open Tennis Championship at Roland Garros http://en.parisinfo.com/show-exhibition/1377083/french-open-tennis-championship-at-roland-garros The French love their tennis and the expression of the passion is in full flower for the two-plus weeks of the French Open or, as it’s affectionately known here, Roland Garros (“row-law(n) gah-rohss”), which takes place on clay courts in Roland-Garros stadium. Or catch the games live in the forecourt of the Hôtel de Ville Paris in the Marais (City Hall)

Lesbian & Gay Pride de Paris http://www.gaypride.fr A generation ago, Gay Pride Paris could barely muster a small crowd. Now it’s one of the biggest and brashest celebrations of queerness in Europe.

La Nuit Blanche http://en.parisinfo.com/what-to-do-in-paris/info/guides/nuit-blanche-in-paris La Nuit Blanche (white night) is an annual all-night arts festival featuring museums, art galleries and other arts institutions open and usually free of charge. There are many art installations, and performances of all types (music, film, dance, performance, art) and other activities. It’s usually held in early October. GAY PARIS

Go on, pronounce it gay Pa-ree. It sounds so right, and though the phrase originated in fin-de-siècle Belle Époque Paris (late 1800s) and really did refer to happy days in the City of Light, there has always been an undercurrent of sex in the phrase which carries over to today. Paris incorporates the best sexual characteristics of Northern Europe (a pretty no-nonsense attitude about sex and nudity) and Southern Europe (a belief in the importance of seduction and wooing, even if it’s just a smile and tilt of his bottle of Kronenbourg 1664).

Paris is pretty damn sexy; as are its residents. Most visitors seem to absorb the come-hither vibe pulsating all around them, too. You can meet hot guys in museums, on the street, or in the Métro but there are easier ways. Plus with the singular sense of style evinced by straight Parisian men (they started wearing sexy underwear decades before American males did and France is one of the world’s largest markets for men’s fragrance), it’s sometimes harder to tell who’s straight and gay. We’ve singled out the following venues as some of the best places to cruise, meet, dine and shop with other gay guys. The ultimate goal doesn’t have to be a hook-up (though your odds are pretty good at most of these spots) but at least you can be confident that the good-look- ing man nibbling his morsel of camembert at the next table probably plays for our team. WHERE WE STAY: RIVE DROITE

The Right Bank of Paris can sometimes feel like the center of the world, this cluster of neighborhoods just north of the Seine that encompasses iconic Parisian culture, fashion and commerce, religious monuments and strips of gay bars. If the Left Bank is bohemian chic with bursts of nature, the right is its more sophisticated coun- terpart, and you stay here to be in the middle of the city’s exploding foodie scene or to be front-and-center for gay nightlife, or close to so many of the city’s famed tourist attractions: the Louvre, Champs-Elysées, both opera houses, the Arch de Triumph, the Tuileries, the Marais, the Centre Pompidou ... And while the disparity of affluence between the two banks is no longer as apparent, the right bank retains its connotation of wealth, and its still the place you’ll find yourself at a white-table clothed affair sipping wine among black-tie waiters. These 14 arrondissements are more easily navigated than the more chaotic layout of the Left, its streets tightly woven and rich in history, and the buildings you see have endured World Wars, cultural revolutions and riots, and are still standing. Nowhere is Paris more urgent than its right bank; few cities are.

Staying close to the Marais can be helpful if you plan to be out late at night after the Métro shuts down. But location always seems less of an issue for us in Paris than style. In a city where style carries more weight than most, hotel décor becomes atmospheric destiny. At the luxury end, Louis XVI style still dominates with a rev- erence for pre-revolutionary opulence that commands extraordinary room rates. But whether the Paris of your dreams is gold-plated, achingly-hip or somewhere in between, we have great recommendations for you.

Hotel St. James http://www.saint-james-paris.com/ A chateau in the middle of Paris! The grand fountain out front will pull you in and you’ll wind your way around the majestic staircase and into these spacious, artistic rooms full of romance. This property is the perfect place to pop the question, or the perfect place to celebrate your honeymoon. The service is all class and guests are welcomed with a complimentary bottle of wine. The rooms are modern but retain their old renaissance charm to keep you feeling like you’re living your fantasy.

Prince de Galles http://www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=250 This Starwood Luxury Collection property reopened after a two-year renovation that restored it to its original Art Déco splendor. The management team is focused on creating a more accessible, less formal and impos- ing luxury hotel experience, with a ground-floor restaurant open to the street, and a more modern relaxed service style that we predict will be a great alternative to the more formal tradition-bound luxury that is so common here.

Mandarin Oriental Paris http://www.mandarinoriental.com/paris/ This haute hotel near the Tuileries gardens is one of the biggest and most expensive in Paris’ city centre, but can’t be beat for familiarity and luxury. Rooms are large and comfortable with nice separate bathrooms. The Place Vendome is nearby and you’re a quick walk to shopping, dining and the Louvre. We love the pool and herbal spa, but find the bar and breakfast overpriced and would advise to brunch elsewhere.

Hotel Original http://www.hoteloriginalparis.com/ A hip hotel on the cusp of the Marais, Hotel Original is a riot of décor and colors, with each room taking on a different design. If you can swing it, try and stay in a few different rooms to fully appreciate the aesthetic breadth of the hotel. Located close to the bastille metro and convenient to cafes and restaurants, you are smack in the middle of some of the city’s coolest neighborhoods. If you’re on a romantic jaunt, stay in the “fairy tale” suite.

Cosy’s Aparthotel http://www.cosys-residences.com/en/index.html/ This moderately-priced and conveniently-located hotel offers spacious suite rooms with kitchen facil- ities and dining areas. It’s a great choice for families, those who like to spread out, and who need or want to do some of their own meal preparation, with ingredients from the charming markets down the street. Rates include free Wifi, and rooms are equipped with flat screen TVs with DVD players and inter- national channels.

W Paris Opera http://www.wparisopera.com/ A funky oasis in the 9th near the opera, the W Paris is one of W Hotels more glam locales, a recent Gold Key finalist for its uber-swag design. Rooms are teeny-tiny, but they capture a particularly com- pelling modern yet romantic Paris vibe. With just 91 rooms and suites, the service here is a step above most of its sister properties, and you’ll pay handsomely for it. But the very central 9th Arrondissement Opéra location is one of our favorites — convenient to the Marais and lots of shopping, with easy ac- cess to four Métro lines and the Roissy Airport bus.

La Pavillon de la Reine http://www.pavillon-de-la-reine.com/uk/index.php Heaven in the Marais — if you’re looking for French country style in the middle of the city, this is our top choice. Tucked away in the Place de Vosges, the exterior is swathed with shrubs and ivy. Inside, the décor is modern with rural charm, a bit of flare, and a cozy solitude from the urbanity outside. The breakfast is exquisite and should not be missed. And you’re just blocks from the best gay nightlife in the city. Highly recommended.

Hôtel Amour http://www.hotelamourparis.fr/ A tiny, Bohemian hipster boutique that’s not for everyone but is loaded with artsy charm in the cool, funky Montmartre neighborhood. There’s a well-known café inside with a nice patio garden out back which we love for coffee whether we stay as guests or not. Rooms are cool but more style over sub- stance. If you’re attracted to Paris’ punk rock side, you’ll want to experience it through the lens of the Hotel Amour.

Hotel Daniel http://www.hoteldanielparis.com/ A Parisian treasure, the Hotel Daniel is a Paris fairytale, cozy and romantic, and designed to feel more like a private residence than a hotel. The staff is professional and will cater to your every whim. The on-site dining room is a favorite for special occasions and this hotel should be reserved for that special trip to Paris with your newlywed husband, for an escape into the perfect Paris honeymoon.

Hotel Thérèse http://www.hoteltherese.com/en/ Charming, cozy, contemporary and convenient, the Hotel Thérèse delivers on many levels. WIth only 40 rooms, it doesn’t boast the expanded services of a large hotel, but makes up for it in spades with refreshingly modern décor, and an insanely tourist-friendly location.

Hotel Banke http://www.derbyhotels.com/en/hotel-banke/ A grand and sweeping hotel in the city’s centre, this is the choice for business elite. Once a bank, the space has been restored and transformed with seamless detail, and we love the small homages to its former identity. The in-house bar — Josephine’s — will be crowded with power suits and travelers. It’s a first-class hotel, close to the Opera House and just a little bit stuffy, so if your priority is sight-seeing the classics, you’ll be well-suited to stay here. Hotel Le Meurice http://www.lemeurice.com/ Le Meurice is the Paris of your Marie Antoinette fantasies. It’s the hotel filmmakers choose when they want to depict the city of light at its most traditionally opulent (and the one the Nazis chose as their headquarters during the occupation.) Here you’ll find big money and big luxury and if you can swing it, no hotel will feel more like the romantic Paris of your imagination. Staying here is comparable to being a member at a private club, with impeccable service, a great bar, elegant décor, and one of the city’s most desired addresses.

Plaza Athenee Paris http://www.plaza-athenee-paris.com/ This is 20th-century Haute Couture Paris, a hotel that oozes class and elegance but does so with a mix of modern and Louis XVI style, topped by epic Eiffel Tower views. Under the same Bruneian ownership as Le Meurice, the two hotels share an almost mystical Parisian atmosphere. The in-house Alain Ducasse restau- rant, opened only on weekdays, is one of the city’s best, Michelin-starred and renowned for its French cuisine. Despite its old-world charm and Victorian exterior, the hotel works at a modern pace and has a staff that will tend to your every need. This is the hotel of choice of the Paris elite and celebs alike, and is one of Paris’ more expensive hotels.

Four Seasons George V http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/ A masterpiece of hotel luxury, this Four Seasons may be the very best in the world, offering weary travelers a level of opulent pampering seldom matched. Everything is of the highest-quality, with regal rooms dressed with old-world charms and distinguished decor. The in-house dining room Le Cinq, is one of Paris’ most lauded. The hotel is expensive and we think worth the splurge for an experience that will change the way you see Paris.

Hotel Paris Saint Honore http://www.paris-saint-honore.com/ We recommend you stay in this gay-owned hotel if you want an affordable, centrally-located hotel. The decor here is funky and floral with touches of antique charm. The rooms are a decent size, charming and modern and colored in soft pastels. The staff is friendly and there’s a breakfast buffet in the morning that’s nice. Nothing here that screams luxury, but its a cozy little place near all the sights and it’s valued just right.

Le Bristol http://www.lebristolparis.com/fr/bienvenue/ This five-star hotel is a favorite of celebrities and remains one of Paris’ most opulent hotels. Its on-site dining room, Le Bristol, is one of the best restaurants in the city, and the bar is fun and classy for pre-dinner drinks. There’s a world-class spa and swimming pool, and a staff eager to assist with your every need. The rooms are elegant, matching the charm of old-Paris with chic touches, marble floors, sun-drenched rooms and soft pastel colors. The hotel is pricey but in the top-tier of the city’s best. Highly recommended if you can spend a bit extra and want a luxurious stay.

Le Pavillion des Lettres http://www.pavillondeslettres.com/fr/index.php Few hotels bring class and style together with the ease of Le Pavillion des Lettres. A gorgeous boutique hotel dripping with romance and intelligence, this hotel knows sleek and chic better than most. Classic literature fans will surely appreciate the hotel ode to letters and travelers will love the warm rooms, stylish design and profes- sional staff. The hotel is centrally located and close to all major shopping and museums in the right bank. This is one of the most unique hotels in Paris, and one of our favorites.

Hotel Costes http://www.hotelcostes.com/ If Paris to you means sleeping until 2pm, cigarettes on balconies, and wine in the lazy morning, then book a room at the Hotel Costes, a hotel of velvet noir sex appeal, where you’ll find beautiful people in the basement grotto and more Parisian attitude than any other hotel in town. Rooms are small but cute with fashionable quirks we found chic and well-arranged. If you want to spend 30 Euro’s on a drink, check out the bar, otherwise head elsewhere.

Generator Hostel Paris http://generatorhostels.com/en/destinations/paris/ Generator Paris is redefining the hostel concept, bringing style and urban sophistication to the European hostel in the heart of Paris’ 10th arrondissement. With just shy of 200 rooms, the hostel is affordable, stylish, and safe, and trumping most mid-level accommodations in the city where rooms are often overpriced and exceedingly cramped. You’ll love the North African-inspired design, the clean laundry room and the short walks to the metro and to the hip Canal St. Martin neighborhood. The on-site restaurant Café Fabien serves up tasty local dishes, nothing fancy but hearty food at a reasonable price. For a hostel, this is the most elegant and well-designed we’ve seen, a welcome concept and a refreshing change. WHERE WE STAY: RIVE GAUCHE

In centuries past, these Left Bank streets have been full of Latin chatter; the universities now renowned were just being built and the giants of art and letters we now revere — Descartes and Pigalle, Cezanne and Monet, Proust and Camus — were walking these narrow, cobbled streets, sharing their ideas and allowing the magic that is the Rive Gauche, that cluster of neighborhoods south of the calming Seine, to inspire them. Today, the Left Bank of Paris is the city’s cerebral and cultural pulse, home to the academic driven Latin Quarter, full of col- lege pubs and bookstores; St. Germain, the city’s most scenic neighborhood of flourishing gardens and quaint shops; and the Eiffel Tower, one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks. Together these neighborhoods form the smaller, more relaxed version of Paris, one of greenspace and art galleries, narrow, cobbled streets and cafes, less hectic than its northern counterpart, full of sights and experiences worthy of inspiring centuries worth of literature. And it has.

We stay on the Left Bank because of its free spirit charm and close proximity to the Right’s iconic museums and culture. The districts in the Left are a bit more scattered and unorganized, but we love its more natural open- ness and adorable lanes. If you want to be close to action but still able to have a corner of peace, we recom- mend booking one of these hotels.

One By The Five http://www.onebythefive.com/ An unusual, dreamy escape, One By The Five is perfect for couples looking to experience the romantic side of Paris. The rooms are small but modern with an emphasis on you and your partner, from the chilled champagne to the private dance floor to the iPod pre-programmed with Edith Piaf. The hotel is next to the metro and per- fect for getting around the city, if you choose to leave your room.

Hotel Montelembert http://preferredhotelgroup.com/preferred-boutique/destinations/france/paris/montalembert This intimate boutique hotel offers a comfortable, residential luxury in two styles: we strongly prefer the more contemporary ones, with Christian Liaigre furnishings, over the more traditional ones with Louis Philippe fur- nishings — be sure to make your preference known. All rooms have the usual array of modern electronics and renovated, though small bathrooms, kitted out with L’Occitane amenities and fully mirrored — worth noting if you’re likely to spend the night doing things that make it hard to face your reflection in the morning!

L’Hotel http://www.l-hotel.com/ A Parisian institution, L’Hotel is 20 rooms of swank and charm with a bit of its own gay history - Oscar Wilde lived out his last days here. Located in a charming milieux in the romantic and artistic St. Germain neighbor- hood, this small but enchanting hotel epitomizes the majestic side of Paris with its architecture that has en- dured two-centuries and its Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Restaurant.

Hotel Luxembourg Parc http://www.luxembourg-paris-hotel.com/ Across the street from the Luxembourg gardens is the Hotel Luxembourg Parc, one on our favorite sophisticated boutiques in the Left Bank, tastefully furnished with rich colors and antiques. This small hideaway veiled with shrubs and greenery has an almost cottage-like feel. The staff is warm and helpful and you’ll be just a few blocks from restaurants, galleries, and scenic strolls through historic streets. The on-site bar is perfect for a nightcap.

Seven Hotel Paris by Elegancia http://www.sevenhotelparis.com/ An üuber mod boutique hotel in the Latin Quarter, the Seven Hotel is funky and sleek, close to public transit and main attractions – Pont des Artes and Notre Dame are nearby, among others. The rooms here are truly interesting, each individually themed; James Bond fans can book a 007 room, and couples might want to book the levitating bed with the starlit ceiling. We found the rooms to be a bit on the small side, so look into booking a suite if you want some extra space. The breakfast is tremendous and worth the 18 extra euros.

Hotel Le Six http://www.hotel-le-six.com/fr/ The Hotel Le Six would be the Pars equivalent to a Kimpton property here in the states, nicely designed with an understated style and pops of color throughout its otherwise warm decor. The rooms are decently sized and flooded with natural light and the hotel offers free WiFi and nespresso machines in the room. The rooms are little pricey for our liking but at around 350 square feet, are a bit bigger than your average Paris room. Avoid breakfast in the hotel; we recommend you eat at one of the nearby cafes. But if you’re looking for a solid room in a great location, this is a good bet.

Apostrophe Hôtel http://www.apostrophe-hotel.com/design-hotel/ This 16-room hotel packs a lot of style in their diminutive rooms. The tight floorplans are truly open, with baths and beds in the same room space, but with the bold avant-garde design, we’re much happier here than in a larger, more generic room at the same affordable price. Services are understandably limited, but the service is excellent: friendly, personal, and fluent in English. The surrounding Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood is filled with delightful distractions for stylish travelers.

Hotel Esmeralda http://www.hotel-esmeralda.fr/?lg=en One of our favorite affordable options in the Latin Quarter — and an editor’s pick from eurocheapo.com — Ho- tel Esmeralda has 16 rooms that are a bit plain but they do the trick for those traveling on a budget. The loca- tion is great and the hotel has its funky charms, and for the price and location, it’s tough to beat. WHERE WE EAT

The food capital of the world, Paris has long been the gastronomic envy and trendsetter for global cities. And today, the city’s culinary reach is greater than ever, having evolved beyond its traditional grand feasts to more sustainable approaches to food. It’s a city known for its elegance, its sweet tooth, its classic French cooking, and a still-important after-dinner cigarette.

GAY EATS The gay restaurant scene can be campy but also hot. It’s here you can spy cute Parisians you may see later and also the many foreign gay visitors who are in town the same time as you. The best part of gay restaurants in the City of Light? The food is really good! (This is Paris after all.)

Au Diable des Lombards http://www.diable.com/ This gay Parisian institution in the very heart of Paris has somehow managed to remain relevant and fun. You’ll find regulars who’ve been visiting for decades and fresh new faces mingling in a convivial manner. In warm weather the outdoor terrace is the place to snag a seat to enjoy great people watching.

The (Little) Red Door Paris http://www.lrdparis.com/ The kookily named cocktails (exhibits A and B: le do not violette and le corn dog) served with or without alcohol are fabulous. It’s a small spot but super friendly, and the mostly black/brick décor is very smart and trendy.

Des Gars Dans La Cuisine http://desgarsdanslacuisine.com/ In the Marais, this is probably the best restaurant if you’re looking for cuisine a bit more refined than the some- times touristy fare you’ll find, but note the prices are also a bit higher. It’s cozy and friendly. Sunday brunch is great; reservations recommended.

Who’s Restaurant and Bar http://www.whosparis.com/restaurant-en.html With an excellent bistro-style menu and very reasonable prices, it’s no surprise this restaurant can be complete- ly full on the weekends. Reservations required but you still may wait so be prepared to bide your time at the bar. It’s worth the wait.

Monjul http://www.monjul.com/ This gay restaurant in the Marais is a high-end gourmet choice featuring creative cuisine with Asian influences. Prices are very reasonable.

Le Gai Moulin http://www.le-gai-moulin.com/ This is a traditional style bistro serving up French classics. We love the friendly gay atmosphere.

TRADITIONAL BISTROS To find a traditional French bistro in Paris should be easy, but with so many tourist traps serving boring food at exorbitant prices, it has actually become one of the more difficult tasks when visiting. The truly great French bistro has become a rare treasure in the city of light, but we know where to look.

La Galerie Lounge, Four Seasons Paris http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/dining/lounges/la_galerie/ La Galerie restaurant at the Four Seasons has a new chef. Handsome youthful and reserved, Chef David Bizet brings with him years of experience. We’d describe his cuisine as farm-fresh and hearty yet refined and heavy on seafood options — all befitting his Normandy roots. Try the lobster dish or anything with truffle oil. The prices here are lofty but not as high as at Le Cinq and the atmosphere is much more casual, making it great for a splurgy date night. The staff is super friendly yet professional and — we don’t know if they deployed their A team just to impress us but — handsome as hell, too.

A La Petite Chaise http://www.alapetitechaise.fr/english.htm The oldest restaurant in Paris still serves up bold, rich French food in a quaint and quirky setting. It’s worth it to go for the novelty but this isn’t a tourist trap where you’ll overpay for mediocre grub. This restaurant has re- tained its quality for centuries and is one of our favorite stops when we’re looking for that classic French bistro.

Bistrot Paul Bert https://www.facebook.com/Le-Bistrot-Paul-Bert-645167065551002/ This is as authentic as it gets — for better or worse — when it comes to bistros in Paris. The brasserie is loud and full of local, French chatter. the maitre’d will only take reservations in French and the cooking is unapolo- getically saucey but still great traditional cuisine - get the steak frites if you come. Earning international raves, this is a stand-out bistro in a city full of mimics.

Chez Paul http://www.chezpaul.com/ Cozy and ambient on a cobbled road behind the bustling bastille neighborhood is our favorite brasserie and exactly the kind of Paris you came here to see. Red-checkered table clothes and walls splashed with Lautrec’s paintings, the place has good style, a hand-written menu of home-style French cooking, and a warm staff. Could be a place for friends or a romantic old-timey dinner for two.

Chez Prune http://www.cityvox.fr/bars-et-cafes_paris/chez-prune_7889/Profil-Lieu The best restaurant on the Canal-St. Martin, low-lit and full of a cool crowd sipping wine and picking at cheese plates. The restaurant is romantic and sexy, and classic Paris. The area couldn’t be better for strolling and locals will usually grab a late bite to eat before heading out for an even later drink. We suggest you do the same.

Brasserie Flo http://www.brasserieflo-paris.com/en/ We love this charming restaurant because it brings to life your daydreams of Paris. It’s hidden away on a time- less cobbled street beneath an archway you can so easily miss. the darkwood interior is old-school Parisian brasserie and the menu is entirely in french - with no pity shown to the measly tourist. One of the most genuine French dining experiences we’ve had.

Les Bougresses https://plus.google.com/109682410406598279748/about?gl=us&hl=en This cozy restaurant in the Marais serves an updated Bistro menu to a mostly local crowd. The service is warm and friendly, and the super handsome staff is helpful with translating the French menu.

In Trocadéro, Le Malakoff http://www.le-malakoff.com/ is a traditional brasserie where you’ll pay about €20- 30 for a nice lunch. For something more casual, grab a sandwich, salad or pastries at Carette, http://www. carette-paris.fr/?lang=en where you can eat outside, or take away for a picnic.

FINE DINING The grandeur of Parisian fine dining has no equal, known for their decadent multi-course dinners in grand rooms with precise service and classic French cooking that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

Cobea http://cobea.fr/en/ For those who know and love Manhattan’s renowned Eleven Madison Park — a near-perfect restaurant in that city’s Flatiron district —- and would like a dining experience as flawless and decadent while in Paris, we give you Cobea, a sleek and smart restaurant in the 14th with an 8-course tasting menu as artful as it is delicious, perfect wine pairings, impeccable service and an all-around unforgettable evening. This was our all-around favorite fine-dining option in Paris.

Epicure @ Le Bristol http://www.lebristolparis.com/eng/restaurants-and-bars/epicure/ When you hear three-michelin stars you may be expecting a certain level of stuffiness - at least we were - but Epicure is warm and relaxed and serves up superb, classic French cuisine without any pretense. Guests who spoke limited to no French had no problems with the courteous staff, and the chefs will accommodate any need, be it vegan or gluten-free diets. The food is everything you’d expect from a renowned French restaurant and it more than delivers and surprises in a lot of ways.

L’Atelier Etoile de Joel Robuchon http://www.joel-robuchon.net/ First, let us help you find the place, as most of our friends have gotten lost: there’s a drugstore on the Champs-Elysees, right by the Arc de Triomphe, and the restaurant is located in its basement, beside another restaurant, a small grocery, and a book store. Once inside, you’ll love the concept and decor. This isn’t a date place, it’s a lesson in gastronomy and Joel Robuchon is a world-class master. Sit at the bar, get to know your neighbors, chat it up with the waiter, and indulge in one of the best meals of your life. And yes, the mashed po- tatoes are as good as you’ve heard. (Tip: go for lunch when prices are more reasonable and the food is equally as good.)

Alain Ducasse @ Plaza Athenee Paris http://www.plaza-athenee-paris.com/alain-ducasse-plaza-athenee For many, this will be a once-in-a-lifetime meal, with a price tag that can run as high as $1500 for two, after drinks, tax, and gratuity. Cost aside, the experience at Alain Ducasse is exquisite, everything perfect, the regal dining room, the impeccable service, and the artistry of the food, like a painting in a museum. This is the pinna- cle of Parisian fine dining, with three-Michelin stars and a reputation known the world over.

Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx @ The Mandarin Oriental http://www.mandarinoriental.com/paris/fine-dining/sur-mesure-par-thierry-marx/ Sur Mesure is the flagship restaurant of the Mandarin Oriental, draped in white cloth to give the weightless impression of dining on a cloud. The restaurant aims for a sensory experience and it delivers – this is Parisian molecular gastronomy at its finest. While so many Paris chefs are all turning towards the gastro-pub haute bar food trend, Thierry Marx keeps it classic with his tasting menu and wine pairings. It’s décor keeps it from being stuffy, adds a nice edge, and together makes for a memorable dining experience.

Mini Palais http://www.minipalais.com/fr/ A high-end restaurant inside the Grand Palais – an amazing landmark with a terrace of majestic high-ceilings across from the landmark Petit Palais – and one of the most romantic, timeless, breathtaking places in Paris. From the outside it could be a 17th century church, but inside is modern with sleek touches. The food is of the highest-quality but we come here for the scene – the people watching, the blue sky that pours through the windows, or the Sunday evening passing by outside as we sip our wine.

NOUVELLE PARISIENNE RESTAURANTS Paris has experienced a culinary regeneration of sorts, trading its white linens for stripped woods and its prix fixes for locally sourced a la carte fare. The result is one of the most popular food revolutions to hit the city in some time, with nods towards simple cooking and fresh ingredients that have re-energized foodies in the city, sending them in droves to some of the city’s newest and best restaurants. Here are our favorites: Spring, 1st arr. http://www.springparis.fr/ We love dining at Spring for its trendy decor and its upscale spin on simple dishes; this place is perfect for couples or a group of friends after a day of perusing the Louvre. Located inside a restored 17th century building of glass and steel down an alley and across from the Louvre, the fixed, ingredient-centric menu changes daily, is always fresh, and still affordable. The restaurant specializes in fresh oysters, perfectly cured meats, and fun dishes like the lobster roll with fries that we adore. And downstairs is Spring Buvette, a dimly-lit basement wine bar of dark-wood and stone that does not take reservations, which we highly recommend it as a backup if you can’t get in upstairs.

Verjus, 1st arr. http://verjusparis.com/ Contemporary American cuisine in a formal atmosphere, Verjus is a tiny space hidden off the Rue de Richelieu in a small passage by the Palais Royal (as is to be expected, the restaurant was opened by the same couple behind the revered Hidden Kitchen). The cozy dining room is just perfect for a romantic meal out - we love the set, seven-course menu - but prefer the sexier bar a vin downstairs, as it’s a little more casual, with an exten- sive wine list and a menu of small plates with bold flavor. This is a no reservations affair so you may wait, but it’s worth it for an intimate evening in one of Paris’ best haunts.

Les Fines Gueules, 1st arr. http://www.lesfinesgueules.fr/ On any night of the week, Les Fines Gueules is teeming with locals and you’ll likely be the only tourist of the bunch; that should only make the waitresses perfect English even more impressive. The trendy restaurant of small, stripped down rooms that buzz with life and French chatter is one of the places that makes Paris truly special for us. Check out the limited menu scribbled on a chalkboard but we have a few suggestions: the steak tartare is the best we’ve had (and the dish they’re famous for), the tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and parmesan is a fantastic starter, and for dessert, we like the Cafe Gourmand sampler: three miniature desserts and an espresso.

Frenchie, 2nd arr. http://www.frenchie-restaurant.com Frenchie - named after the nickname given to chef Gregory Marchand, a Gramercy Tavern alum - is right out of a Parisian storybook, a small, wine-focused restaurant of just a few tables tucked away on the cobblestoned rue du Nil that gives you everything you could want from a trendy Parisian eatery. We dream about the pork belly starter and all dishes are served with the freshest ingredients. The menu has just a few options and they are all out-of-this-world amazing. Should you be unsuccessful securing a reservation, an eponymous wine bar has recently opened across the way, great for a small bite and a glass of wine. You’ve likely closed your eyes and imagined yourself sipping wine along a narrow, romantic hideaway street in Paris - this place brings that image to life.

Grazie, 3rd arr. http://www.yelp.com/biz/grazie-paris You step into this bustling Marais joint and are immediately swept into its dimly-lit sexiness of cute, tatted-up bartenders shaking up drinks and loud music overlapped with patron chatter, and forget the frenetic city out- side. Pick a cozy table in a back corner and start with a unique libation before noshing on a delicious pizza - we like the classic margherita, with an interesting crust that sets it apart from others in the city. There’s a sexy, cool vibe here that would not be out-of-place in Lower Manhattan, and we love it for a night out with the boys. Make a reservation well in advance.

Caffé Stern http://www.alajmo.it/sezione.asp?pagina=stern&sezione=stern&lingua=ing It’s easy to forget that Paris is also home to great restaurants of cuisines other than French. Caffè Stern serves a delectably light, modern Italian menu, brought from the Veneto region by the third generation of a Padua family — one of whom, Max Alajmo, is the youngest chef ever to earn three Michelin stars. It is located inside Passage des Panoramas, the oldest arcades in Paris. It’s atmospheric yet relaxed, and open every day from 8:30 am until midnight.

Candelaria, 3rd arr. http://www.candelariaparis.com/ A narrow hiccup of a restaurant, hidden away in shadows and candlelight with one six-seater table and a few counter tops, Candelaria serves up the best and most authentic Mexican fare in Paris. Portions are small but superb – homemade tortillas and guac, warm tostadas and strong margaritas – plus great music and an all- around fun vibe. We love this place for a lively and unique change of pace – both in décor and cuisine – and it’s perfect for starting a weekend night. For cocktails, head through the plain, unmarked white door in the back for the secret bar that’s become a favorite of Paris hipsters.

L’Office, 9th arr. https://www.facebook.com/L.Office.Restaurant/timeline You won’t end up at L’Office by accident, but you’ll be happy to have this place on your radar as it’s become one of our ‘go-to- spots in Paris. Located on a nondescript street, just out of sight, we love L’Office for its mellow vibe, stripped down decor, and simple yet delicious food. Chef Kevin O’Donnell - formerly of Del Posto in New York - brings an Italian influence to the cuisine. Highly recommended too for vegetarians looking for a special meal. Come for either dinner or lunch as both are lovely in different ways.

Vivant, 10 arr. http://www.vivantparis.com/ The hottest table in Paris is also one of our favorites; Vivant specializes in traditional dishes served simply - blood sausage and chicken prepared with deceptive ease - and their pastas are some of our favorite anywhere, light and uncomplicated by heavy sauces. This is honest, good French cooking with market-fresh sensibilities and au naturale wines to pair it with. Vivant is a narrow space with faded charm and tiled, bird-muraled walls that pay homage to the space’s former usage as a bird-seller.

Le 6 Paul Bert https://www.facebook.com/Le-6-Paul-Bert-197273650397230/ There are few Parisians whose recommendations we trust more than David Lebovitz. So when he says Le 6 Paul Bert is “an exceptional restaurant, with food better than that I’ve had at three-star restaurants, at everyday prices,” we say “go.” The 4-course menu allows you to mix-and-match any 3 items from the savory side of the menu, and finish with dessert.

SWEETS Paris is known for its macaroons, its crepes, and its gelatos. A trip without trying these sweets in the city that made them famous is criminal. We have our favorites, a few must-trys, and an instituion that still lives up to the hype.

Le Pot O’Lait http://www.lepotolait.com/ There are a lot of options for crepes in this city that made them famous, but this cute little creperie in the Latin Quarter is one of the best. Dedicated to sweet crepes and savory galettes (a buckwheat pancake), you’ll have around 20 options with a warm and welcoming staff to help you decide. You can come for a morning treat but we love to duck into Le Pot O’Lait at night, after a day out in the city with our partners, to relax with one crepe and two forks, a cup of coffee, and plenty of time to take in this adorable little shop.

Laduree http://www.laduree.fr/ This is chocolate made sexy. Laduree makes the best macaroons in a city known for them and has developed a world-famous reputation. Unlike some overhyped joints that tend to draw endless crowds only to produce a middling experience, Laduree is world-famous for a good reason. Stop here on Day 1 because you’ll want to come back again and again for a taste or two... or three. Grom http://www.grom.it/fra/index.php A little piece of sweet Italian bliss in Paris, Grom has some of the best gelato in town, we first fell in love with Grom 10 years ago when it opened its first store in Turin and were pleased to find this outpost in St. Germain. This quaint little shop serves up some of the best gelato in Paris; the vanilla is simple and pure, the chocolate is decadent, but there’s no beating their fresh raspberry (pistachio is a close second.) Pay a bit extra for a dollop of fresh chantilly cream on top. This is one of our favorite spots for a light dessert, and their sorbets and grani- tas are perfect for those with a non-dairy diet. In the winter months, they make a homemade hot chocolate that is just a perfect treat.

Berthillon http://www.berthillon.fr/ This is luxury ice cream, the Louis Vuitton of sorbet, where hordes line-up for a taste of this Paris legend — vanilla, cocoa, strawberry and our favorite, poire — unforgettable flavors you can by the scoop or in bulk. It’s touristy and the lines may be too annoying considering there are other places to snag delicious sorbet in the city, but if you want a glimpse of history and a great scoop of ice cream, you can’t go wrong here.

Pozzetto http://www.pozzetto.biz/ For gay men, few things will equal the bliss of noshing on a pistachio gelato while strolling through the Marais. Pozzetto makes a mean gelato, maybe the city’s best, but are also known for their Italian coffee. The café is just lovely and we could sit for hours before strolling with coffee through these Marais streets.

Breizh Café http://www.breizhcafe.com/fr-breizh-cafe-paris.html A fun and pretty famous creperie in the Marais district, we love it for its sweet and savory crepes on a weekend morning or a late-night snack after dinner. Its an international chain with outposts in Tokyo but this location has a certain French charm. Book a table as walk-ins tend to wait longer than we find is worth it, but it’s a cute place with lots of personality.

BREAKFAST/BRUNCH Sunday brunch in Paris remains one of our all-time favorite pastimes. The city belongs to you on weekend mornings, and you’re free to wake up at noon to a glass of wine, followed by a stroll to a cafe for some coffee and pastry. The city has more than a few stellar breakfast options and through the years we’ve stuck with a few favorites.

Blé Sucré http://www.yelp.com/biz/blé-sucré-paris-2 We don’t even know what to say about Ble Sucre, but hot damn do they make a mind-blowing croissant. This bakery/brunchery is about as close to sex as pastries get — the butter or the chocolate, both are addictive — and we’ve known locals and chefs alike trek more than 30 minutes to fill their cravings. It’s on a cute block great for a post-brunch stroll. And if you have room, order the Kouign Aman; it’s just so good we won’t spoil it for with words, just go try it.

Ten Belles http://www.yelp.com/biz/ten-belles-paris A cozy retreat off the Canal St. Martin and a perfect place to rest and re-energize after a stroll in this idyllic area, Ten Belles is known for its great food and kind staff. Chocolate muffins, sandwiches, warm soup and some of the city’s best coffee make it one of our favorite places for brunch or breakfast. No WiFi but you shouldn’t be working here anyway. This is a place to sip coffee and relax.

Les Enfants Perdus http://www.les-enfants-perdus.com/ Perhaps its called “The Lost Children” because it’s the perfect place to stumble into after a day of being lost and turned around to experience a near-perfect meal of classic French cooking. Or maybe not. Either way, this adorable bistro is everything you could want on a Sunday morning, and while they have a fantastic dinner, its better on a late sunny morning. Full of charm and coffee and great food, it’s a perfect Parisian nook in a charm- ing neighborhood.

L’Echappée http://www.lechappee.com/ L’Echappee is known more for its spa than for brunch but this Thai restaurant has one of Paris’s best brunch secrets and a warm atmosphere we love to spend a few hours. The best thing to do after brunch is to tour the facilities and indulge in a Sunday afternoon spa day.

Hotel Amour http://www.hotelamourparis.fr/ This is classic Paris and we love to come here, grab a seat in their sunny back garden area, and slowly sip some espresso and chat with friends over eggs. Leafy shrubs and ivy wrap around shaded trees and cute French boys smoke cigarettes on the steps. It’s the place we come when we want to be absorbed in a moment and enjoy some delicious breakfast food.

Claus http://www.yelp.com/biz/claus-la-table-du-petit-d%C3%A9jeuner-paris The best German breakfast in the French capital, Claus is a charming space, full of light and warm bread aro- ma, serving up fresh food and fresh-squeezed juices, perfectly smoked salmon, and Bavarian twists on tradi- tional breakfast dishes. A great, different spot to experience a brunch we love.

QUICK EATS Sometimes you just don’t have time to sit for four-hours to enjoy a chefs choreographed performance; some- times you’re just drunk and tired and need a damn good burger. These are the best spots to grab a quick bite, whether its on the way to the Louvre or after a night of clubbing.

Bob’s Kitchen http://www.bobsjuicebar.com/ For Paris being the culinary mecca that it is, we always seem to have some of our best meals at Bob’s Kitchen, a small and inexpensive vegan spot in the 3rd serving up fresh sandwiches, fresh juices and these delicious- ly surprising little vegan cupcakes. The café has free WiFi and is great for taking breaks from the hectic city, catching up on email, and enjoying some quick but delicious food.

Blend http://blendhamburger.com/ Gourmet street burgers in a super trendy space where there’s always a line, Blend is a cool neighborhood spot in the 2nd that’s great for a quick bite. The restaurant has received a ton of hype and we don’t think it quite lives up to it, but it’s still a fun place worth checking out.

Le Pick-Clops https://www.facebook.com/Pick-Clops-83342789344/ One of the best cafes in Paris with great people watching on Roi de Sicile. Grab a cup of coffee and chill on the sidewalk or sit inside and take in the fresh ground coffee aroma and the funky interior. There’s no WiFi but we like it for a cup and a croissant.

Chez Tsou http://www.yelp.com/biz/chez-tsou-paris-2 A Chinese restaurant with affordable prices, we love In Tsou - its big terrace across from the main gay bars in the Marais, and the recurring gay clientele and very LGBT friendly owners: Xiaomin and his wife Tsou Tsou. The food is always good and quick and we like to stop in before a night out. BAKERIES/BREAD SHOPS The baguette is nearly as big a Paris icon as the Eiffel Tower and we have a couple of places we always direct our friends when they visit the city of light to experience bread at its best.

Pain Poilâne http://www.poilane.com/index.php? In the city that made the baguette famous, here is where you get perfect bread. We’ve never met anyone who doesn’t absolutely love the bread here. Poilane also makes a terrific apple tart we highly recommend if you want something a little sweeter. Experience an iconic Parisian delicacy at its very best.

Du Pain et Des Idées http://dupainetdesidees.com/ There’s usually a line out the door at this delightful bakery where locals get their buttery pastry and bread fix. Best to grab a warm loaf and head to the Luxembourg Gardens to picnic with fresh bread and a bottle of wine. Few things will make you quite as happy.

Paris Pastry App http://www.paris-pastry.com Our gay American hero of French food, David Lebovitz picks up where Julia Child left off, demystifying French cuisine and food culture with a self-effacing humor that is as entertaining as his recommendations are useful. His Paris Pastry App will keep you up-to-date on the latest local finds. WHERE WE PLAY/MEET BARS The bar scene is probably the best for visitors who don’t want to stay up all hours at the clubs. You can start at the Open after work hours , hit a few nearby bars after and be in bed at a decent time.

Open Café http://www.opencafe.fr/ This café-cum-bar is a few steps from the Cox, Raidd and other hot spots, and is a great place to kick off your evening and sit and watch the crowd sashaying from one bar to the next. It’s also the place to bump into your friends from the States whom you didn’t know would be in Paris.

Cox http://www.cox.fr/ The Cox has the busiest gay happy hour (starting right after work, around 6pm) of any bar in Paris, where gay men literally crowd the entire front sidewalk 365 days of the year drinking beers; it’s especially crowded when it’s sunny and warm. It’s been around for 15 years but is still super popular especially with bearded boys.

Raidd Bar http://www.raiddbar.com/ Legendary for its shows of nude go-go dancers taking showers behind glass doors, the Raidd packs in a very hot crowd of locals and visitors. It also attracts too many straight girls — if they get annoying, go around the corner to our next recommendations, Spyce, at 23 Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie.

Spyce http://www.spycebar.com/ This bar/club opened a couple years ago and quickly became the place to be with an Ibiza-party-like ambi- ance. It’s a smaller clone of Raidd but if anything, the dancers are hunkier and you’ll find shows and perfor- mances pretty much non-stop any day of the week.

Le Duplex http://paris.gaycities.com/bars/1869-le-duplex This little bar is popular with guys in their 30s and beyond, and known for being trendy but friendly. It’s also known for having a great beer selection.

Les Souffleurs http://www.les-souffleurs.com/ This cute little poetry-loving queer bar is très à la mode at the moment. You’ll find it on the super charming Rue du Roi de Sicile in an off-the-beaten-path corner of the Marais.

Rosa Bonheur http:// www.rosabonheur.fr This is a very popular gay drinking establishment near the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in the 19th arrondisse- ment; it’s a bit of a schlep but it’s unique. It’s all wooden tables and benches, electric lights, local products — gay and lesbian bar with the air of a rural tavern. It’s particularly popular on warm Sunday evenings, but get there early to avoid the often horrendous lines. Check out the park earlier then hit Rosa for a drink after and you’ll enjoy something very local and off the tourist path.

CLUBS The club scene here starts late and can often be smoky as all hell and quite young (who else can go out at 1am). But it’s really worth it to see how Parisians club. Watch people mouth the words to American/English pop songs. Then watch them go ape shit dancing madly when an old accordion-fueled French number comes on. You remember that gay Parisians are traditional like most Parisians. SCREAM CLUB http://www.scream-paris.com/ Just steps from the Marais, La Scream welcomes the hottest European DJs every Saturday night. It’s the only gay weekly party in Paris, featuring three rooms each of which has a completely different ambiance.

Cud Bar https://www.facebook.com/cudbar This small gay club is the only one in the heart of the Marais within walking distance of the bars.

Under http://www.fluidparty.com This is the most popular “after” party in Paris. It takes place monthly (check the website) and usually goes from 10am-6pm so you’ll meet folks who’ve been up since the night before who just can’t stop the party and others enjoying a sunnier “tea dance” moment.

Beardrop http://www.beardrop.fr/ This is the most popular bear party with events taking place in several of the larger cities of France including a monthly party in Paris pour les ours. Hirsute MenAboutWorld (and admirers): Check the website for upcoming event dates.

Tango http://www.boite-a-frissons.fr/home_en.htm This is one of the friendliest and most French gay evenings you can have. The entry price and drinks are inex- pensive. The Boite a Frisson (literally shiver or thrill box, which also refers to the accordion) hosts weekly dance parties for gay women, men, heterosexuals — all are welcome. There’s two hours of couple dancing then it becomes more of a dance party featuring ‘80s and ‘90s music for the most part but don’t be surprised if they throw on an old accordion-based French ditty. That’s when the crowd really goes wild.

Flash Cocotte http://www.flashcocotte.com/ Flash Cocotte has been a trendy club for the past few years. It’s located in the fabulous Espace Cardin near the U.S. embassy. It’s attracts a youngish, glittery, fashion-conscious crowd of queers with electro-pop music, and it’s a bit snobbish.

SAUNAS There are gay saunas all over town. Our favorite, especially for a short trip to Paris is Gym Louvre. But check out these others, too. Saunas here like in other destinations in Europe are also meant to be places to socialize and have a light bite, a coffee or a beer.

Gym Louvre http://www.gymlouvre.com/sauna-paris-gay-english/sauna-gay-paris.html See above

Sun City http://www.suncity-paris.fr This very popular sauna is run by the same folks behind Le Depot, the most famous Paris cruising club. It sprawls over 2,000 square meters on three levels making it the biggest sauna in the city. It sports an Indian-in- spired décor. Unlike Gym Louvre there are plenty of private areas to get it on with someone you meet here.

IDM Sauna http://idm-sauna.com This sauna is also big, though at 1000 square meters about half the size of Sun City. There are four floors to explore. The downstairs bar area is friendly and affords a great vantage point into the gym and the entrance so you can scope nouveaux arrivés. The gym rivals that of Gym Louvre; some members belong to IDM simply for the fitness facility. OTHER SEX VENUES Le Dépôt http://www.ledepot-paris.com This is the ne plus ultra of gay sex venues in Paris. It’s the biggest cruising bar in Europe located in the heart of the Marais. There’s a DJ and dance are on the main floor, which is open to men only, but the real action takes place in the basement or on the second floor, open weekends, where you’ll find darkrooms, individual private cabins, and glory holes. Just keep walking around till you find what you like.

Impact http://www.impact-bar.com/GAY-UK/index.php This 100% nude bar charges 16 euros for admission, which includes your first drink. You just enter, pay, grab a small plastic bag, strip and put all your clothes into the bag. Retain your shoes. You keep a little key with your number on it so you can order drinks. Then just walk around nekkid! The upstairs bar is friendly and casual. The downstairs space is a serious sex venue with a bed for guys to fuck and lots of rooms and corners for canoo- dling. This place mostly self-selects for men confident in their bodies so you’ll find a lot of hot muscular guys.

Secteur X http://www.secteurx.fr/ This sex club has a friendly bar on the ground floor for you to get a little inebriated before exploring the down- stairs with its St. Andrews Cross, piss wall and fisting bench. WHERE WE SHOP

Colette http://www.colette.fr/ A high-energy, eclectic cultural museum, Colette nearly defies description. You can and should spend an hour or so browsing these shelves for some whimsical items, be it clothes, electronics, art, shoes, or trinkets, this shop sets trends and has been known to influence fashion’s creative elite. It’ll be packed when you arrive but it’s worth weathering the crowds for a glimpse into this unique shop, one of Paris’s best

Ofr. http://www.ofrsystem.com/ Our favorite bookstore on the Right bank - great for art and design books and some casual browsing with a cool vibe - is also an art gallery. The space hosts exhibitions from local and foreign artists and we usually find a rare item or two to bring back home. The bookstore hasn’t been overexposed to tourists so you’re likely to find some peace here.

Bill Tornade http://www.billtornade.com For more than 30 years, Bill Tornade has been at the forefront of men’s fashion and remains a favorite of ours when we’re looking for a few pieces of trendy sophistication with a rock star edge. If you’re a GQ gay and you’re looking for something to wear to a new club or a nice meal in the Montemarte, make a quick stop here. Staff is super helpful and the space has modern falre.

BHV http://www.bhv.fr/magasins/bhv-paris/ A one-stop shopping excursion for everything a man could need while in Paris — men’s grooming products, handyman tools, household trin kets, underwear, and so on - we come here mostly for the men’s grooming, fragrance, hand soap, and shaving cream. More practical than anything, its a utilitarian shop that will almost always have what you’re looking for.

La Comedie Humaine http://www.lacomediehumaine.com/shop/en/ If seeing all the smart fashion in Paris leaves you with wardrobe envy, head to this emporium of modern, mas- culine and elegant menswear. Their French style and craftsmanship will add more than a soupçon of sophistica- tion to your closet.

Passage du Grand Cerf http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/100255/Passage-du-Grand-Cerf Though many of the city’s grand 18th century passages have been demolished, this one has been restored to its belle époque glory. Don’t miss Men By Men, http://www.menbymen.com/ for fashionable and sexy sports- wear, Didier Guillermain http://www.didierguillemain.com/ for artisan jewelry, and Le Pas Sage, https://plus. google.com/112054659391654590607/about?gl=us&hl=en https://www.facebook.com/cafelepassage (no offi- cial website, included google plus and facebook pages) a fun and friendly wine bar/restaurant.

Calligrane http://calligrane.fr/ This artisan paper store is our favorite stop for unusual stationary, as well as small sculptural objects and un- usual gifts, including an attractive array of leather wallets and bound journals.

Tumbleweed http://www.tumbleweedparis.com/home.html Don’t be deterred by the idea of a toy store; Tumbleweed stocks mostly adult toys: whimsical, charming, off- beat — even subversive. We love the complicated locked boxes that require multiple steps (shaking, spinning, inverting) to open. Perfect for hiding things from nosey mothers-in-law. Watch the video here. http://www. youtube.com/watch?v=M7KL3LcJfp8 Marche Anvers Market http://en.parisinfo.com/shopping-paris/90975/March%C3%A9-Anvers A covered open market located on Place d’Aligre and rue d’Aligre, between rue de Charenton and rue Crozat- ier, we like to come on Fridays between 3-8pm when they showcase their antiques, out-of-print books and art collections. Other days and times center around fresh produce, jams, and flowers. On a nice day we’ll spend hours just browsing and chatting with vendors who are happy to share some history with you.

Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore http://www.shakespeareandcompany.com/ We love this bookstore for its rich history and selection of well-chosen books and poetry. The store pays hom- age to the original that was visited by Hemingway and was most recently featured in Woody Allen’s Midnight In Paris. But the reason to come is hidden in the nooks, where you’ll find notes left from people around the world. We can spend hours browsing these stacks and find it a perfect place to duck into when strolling the Latin Quarter.

Rue Mouffetard Street Market http://www.rue-mouffetard.com/market.html One of our favorite street markets in Paris, and while not the best, it is the most scenic, with cobblestone streets, lush fruit coloring the early morning and the savory aroma of chickens that you’ll want to buy and we won’t discourage you. This is a one of our favorite things to do on a weekend morning in Paris and you shouldn’t leave the magical city without experiencing it.

Marche Biologique Raspail http://www.yelp.com/biz/marché-biologique-raspail-paris-2 The Raspail market is a gem of St. Germain, expensive, yes, but our favorite place to buy yummy baked goods, warm breads, and organic vegetables. Many Paris chefs shop here and you’ll see them up early buying ingredi- ents for that night’s menu. A great place to browse some uniquely French products that are healthy and deli- cious.

SEXY SHOPPING Mister B http://www.misterb.com/ If you find yourself in dire need of a sack sling or pig tail butt plug or your puppy leash was confiscated at cus- toms, head on over to Mister B, a new spot on rue du Temple in the heart of the Marais, one of the best places to purchase sex toys, clothes, fetish DVDs, lube, condoms or fetish wear.

Rex http://www.rexshop.fr/ Paris’ premier fetish retailer offers a large range of leather, latex and all kinds of, well, let’s just call them “ac- cessories.” They also carry the Fred Perry polo shirts, the popular European street wear for closet sex pigs.

IEM http://www.iem.fr/index.php?lang=en IEM is hard to miss. Located along the very walkable Rue St. Croix de la Bretonnerie in the heart of the Marais, this fetish emporium beckons with a gigantic Tom of Finland illustration. It offers a huge array of products in a relatively small space from leather and latex to underwear, dildos, books, DVDs and DVDs. WHAT WE SEE/DO

How do you cover culture in a destination that embodies it? Not comprehensively, that’s for sure. There are books and magazines and websites devoted to Paris’s myriad art scenes from spoken word and modern art to Baroque dance and comedy and countless cultural expressions beyond. Here we look at some of our favorite options as well as those appealing to more general audiences. But know that for just about any artistic procliv- ity out there, you’ll find a venue, group and audience associated with it. A good place to start your search for specific shows is in theParis CVB’s official website http://en.parisinfo.com/shows-exhibitions-paris/. We also like Time Out Paris http://www.timeout.fr/paris/en. If you can read French, pick up one of the weekly enter- tainment magazines at any kiosk, including l’Officiel des Spectacles http://www.offi.fr/ andPariscope http:// spectacles.premiere.fr/ .

Paris has the most movie screens of any city in the world housed in theaters from large and kind-of-a-scene along the Champs Elysées and in the left bank to tiny one-screen houses peppered throughout town. Like Los Angeles, this city reveres cinema, with a special place in its heart for American classics. You can catch old black-and-white gems not seen in the U.S. in decades, and the theaters showing them will be packed (always buy tickets in advance if you can). Unless you like listening to sometimes clumsily dubbed movies, choose films in v.o. (version originale) rather than v.f. (version Française). Here’s an overview of the movie theaters http://www.offi.fr/cinema you’ll find in Paris and what’s playing now.

Paris is second only to New York and London in terms of performance theaters, and the production values and talent levels are high; so if you have the opportunity to catch a live show, jump at it. You may not be able to catch every word but the performance will be exhilarating enough. Paris also has the most live-music venues in the world. The city attracts a lot of talent yearning to be the best in a competitive market, so what you see is bound to be at least good and most likely exceptional. Parisinfo.com http://en.parisinfo.com/what-to-do-in-par- is/shows-in-paris is a good place to search for upcoming live performance theater, concerts and more.

Probably the greatest cultural attraction is the city itself. We highly recommend slipping on comfortable shoes and just getting out there to explore Paris’s many neighborhoods casually crammed full of architectural won- ders, decorative surprises, meticulously manicured parks, and café after café for easy breaks from all the perambulating.

Paris has one of the greatest collections of museums in the world, and visitors should plan on exploring some of these institutions — some well-known; others not so much — to gain an appreciation for the depth, breadth and quality of Paris’ cultural offering. You’ll see many of the works you studied in the “Art of the Western World” survey courses you took in college. Read on for our admittedly biased roundup of some of what we consider to be the must-visits for an enjoyable cultural discovery of the French capital, with a heavy emphasis on mu- seums. Please see Tourist/Travelist for these top cultural attractions: Musée d’Orsay, Musée du Louvre, and Centre George Pompidou.

MUSEUMS Musée National Picasso Paris http://www.musee-picasso.fr/ It’d be a shame to miss this little gem not only for the range of original Picassos from well-known large-scale canvases and sculptures to tiny “throwaway” drawings with three perfect lines reflecting a portrait with emo- tion. Housing the art, the Hôtel Salé, considered one of the finest historic houses in the Marais, is well worth a visit in its own right, but don’t skip its contents. Musée Rodin http://www.musee-rodin.fr/ The great sculptor, August Rodin lived and worked in this beautiful 18th-century hotel particulier and surround- ing garden, which are crammed full of his works, including some of his more celebrated pieces including the origninal cast of The Thinker, and one of only 12 permitted casts of Burghers of Calais.

Musée de l’Orangerie http://www.musee-orangerie.fr/ You’ll come for this gallery’s most famous work — the eight Water Lilies murals by Claude Monet which are housed here permanently and which no number of reproductions on postcards or in books can diminish the power of — but you’ll be floored by the other works from a who’s who of Impressionism including: Henri Rous- seau, Paul Cézanne, Picasso, Rodin and many others.

Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume http://www.jeudepaume.org/?_langue_=english If you visit the Musée de l’Orangerie, then cross the 75 feet of Tuileries to pop into the Jeu de Paume, an art center known for temporary exhibits of all forms of mechanical and electronic imagery (photography, cinema, video, installation, web art, etc.).

Petit Palais http://www.petitpalais.paris.fr/en This gem has been completely renovated and restored to its original magnificence but with plenty of modern touches to keep works of art and visitors safe and comfortable. The Petit Palais houses over 1,300 pieces from ancient times through the early 20th century with a heavy emphasis on French masters from various schools prominent during that timeframe. Nice touch: Admission to the permanent collection is free for everyone.

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris http://www.mam.paris.fr/en/home Located in the striking Palais de Tokyo, the Musée d’art Moderne de la Ville de Paris was created in 1961 and features over 8,000 works touching on most important schools of thought in 20th and 21st-century contem- porary art movements with such a strong permanent collection their temporary exhibits, including recently the works of photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson, are exciting and well curated. Be sure to pop outside to the terrace for fabulous views of the Eiffel Tower.

Palais de Tokyo http://www.palaisdetokyo.com/ After doubling its exhibition space in a 2011 renovation, the museum has become an even more important center for contemporary art with an emphasis on radical emerging art across a variety of disciplines including music, performance and lectures.

Musée Jacquemart-André http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/fr/home Step back in time to 19th-century Paris in this beautiful and meticulously restored and maintained townhouse housing the city’s strongest collection of 18th-century decorative art. The building and its contents were be- queathed to the Institute of France by the late Madame Nélie Jacquemart-André, who was one of the first women to study art at the School of Fine Arts in the mid-1880s.

Musée Marmottan Monet http://www.marmottan.fr/ Not many U.S. visitors make it out to this museum near the Bois de Boulogne but that’s a shame. It’s the defini- tion of boutique with only 300 impressionist and post-impressionist paintings with 130 paintings, watercolors, pastels and drawings by Claude Monet, who started the Impressionist movement. Here is where you’ll find his painting “Impression: Sunrise” which of course lent its name to this transformative painting style. There are also works by Degas, Renoir, Gauguin, Manet, and Pissarro. It’s a bit of a trek from central Paris — the nearest metro stop is La Muette, and the €11 admission is not included in the Paris Museum Pass. Musée de Cluny http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ Nearly hidden in plain sight, this museum is devoted to an exploration of the Middle Ages (both in terms of the artistic output of that period and day-to-day life. It’s housed in a 15th-century abbey and built amidst a replica of a pleasant middle ages garden and above Greco-Roman thermal baths built in the first centuries A.D. The main piece to see here is the Lady and the Unicorn, a gorgeous tapestry that is so crammed with allegorical symbols and vibrant colors, it’s like an early graphic novel.

Musée Carnavalet http://carnavalet.paris.fr/en/museum-carnavalet Nous aimons this museum and if you love Paris you will too. First of all, it’s housed in two Renaissance-era mansions built in the 16th and 17th centuries that you’ll walk by repeatedly if you explore the Marais area. It traces the history of Paris over hundreds of years and 100 rooms. Bonus: it’s free.

Musée Guimet http://www.guimet.fr/fr/ This museum houses one of the largest collections of Asian art outside Asia, including Chinese and Japanese porcelain, religious objects from the East but also ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, and a whole section of Buddhist works.

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature http://www.chassenature.org/ This is often described as one of the most inventive, rewarding, eclectic and quirky museums in Paris, so of course we made a beeline for it. Hunting was how earlier people actually got food on their table and what amazing tools and weapons they used! The variety of prey is astonishing as well.

Musée des Arts et Métiers http://www.arts-et-metiers.net/ This is another quirky, interesting museum of objects that were actually used in the pursuit of science, to make life easier or to enrich its inventor. In any case, you’ll see a lot of very cool thingamabobs.

Musée Gustave-Moreau http://musee-moreau.fr/ This museum honors Gustave Moreau and is housed in his former residence and studio where he lived in the late 1800s. The works, representing the Symbolist school, are displayed in exactly the way Moreau desired.

Musée Zadkine http://www.zadkine.paris.fr/en This museum is dedicated to the sculptor Ossip Zadkine and includes paintings, drawings, photos and other works in addition to his sculpture. Even if you don’t enter the museum, the little garden, which is free, makes for a nice visit.

Musée Albert Kahn http://albert-kahn.hauts-de-seine.net/ Our final museum recommendation is a little treasure. One of the most beautiful spots in the area, it is located just outside of Paris in Boulogne-Billancourt, and well worth a visit. This national museum sprawls over several acres of gardens and includes photographs and films from around the world collected by Albert Kahn who was a banker and philanthropist.

CULTURAL CENTERS L’Institut du Monde Arabe Paris http://www.imarabe.org/ This is a great place to visit for its architecture, views, and café as much as for its collections and library. Fund- ed by a network of Arab countries, the goal of the institute is to promote cooperation and exchanges between France and the Arab world with an emphasis on science and technology. Climb to the roof for a crazy view of the Right Bank. Centre Culturel d’Egypte http://www.bureaucultureleg.fr/fr/index.php# The mission of the Centre Culturel d’Egypte is to promote Egyptian culture through art exhibits, lectures, film screenings, music, meetings with artists and intellectuals and other activities. The public is welcome.

ART GALLERIES Art galleries we love include: Emmanuel Perrotin Gallery http://www.perrotin.com, one of the top contempo- rary-art galleries in France, which also has a branch in Manhattan at the corner of 73rd St. and Madison Ave; and Gallery Dukan Hourdequine http://www.galeriedukan.com/. Sam Dukan and Marc Hourdequin represent international contemporary artists and organize popular temporary art exhibitions.

OPERA AND BALLET It’s a tad confusing but the original Paris Opéra at the gorgeous, ornate Palais Garnier houses the Paris Opéra Ballet https://www.operadeparis.fr/en/ , the oldest national ballet company in the world. The newer Opéra de la Bastille https://www.operadeparis.fr/en/lopera-de-paris/theatres-ecole-ateliers/the-opera-bastille is where you’ll find most of the opera performed in Paris though you may find some smaller opera productions at the Palais Garnier and the Opéra Bastille stages some ballet and other performances. In any event, try to catch a performance and see both the old and the new sites. Benjamin Millepied, the choreographer and a former prin- cipal at New York City Ballet and husband of Natalie Portman has been its director of dance since 2014.

OTHER CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS WE LOVE “I love you”: the wall http://www.lesjetaime.com/english/ The mur des “je t’aime”, or “I love you” wall looks like a blackboard crisscrossed by chalk writing but it is actu- ally glazed tiles with the phrase, “I love you” written over 300 times in 250 languages whose goals is to inspire peace and love. Nice place for a little romantic moment.

Sainte Chapelle http://sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr/ It’s not a museum but what a work of art. The Sainte Chapelle is a tiny chapel built by Saint Louis in the heart of the Palais de la Cité on the Ile de la Cité in the heart of Paris though most of the millions of tourists walking around here have no idea it’s there. Go on a sunny day, especially around sunset for the spectacular light show of its stained glass windows.

La Promenade plantée http://www.promenade-plantee.org/ The first elevated park in the world, this garden oasis was once an 18th-century railway, abandoned and un- used until it was restored into a three-mile stretch of serene greenery perched above the city streets. Providing inspiration for New York’s phenomenally popular High Line, this creative, flower-softened escape is one of our favorite walks in Paris.

Luxembourg Gardens http://www.pps.org/great_public_spaces/one?public_place_id=39 Come on a Sunday with a cup of coffee and a baguette, or a local bottle of wine, sit on the lawn and enjoy this verdurous 400-year-old oasis. In the mornings, the gardens will be crowded with Parisians playing tennis while their kids float toy boats and groups practice tai-chi on the lawns. There are often free musical performances and art shows and tons of great cafes along its edges. And if you’re a literature buff, snap some photos of your- self here, the same gardens where Marius meets Cosette in Les Miserables.

Le Nouvel Odeon http://www.nouvelodeon.com/index.php/site/accueil A favorite spot of our is this funky new cinema in the St. Germain neighborhood, renovated by Philippe Starck and Matelli Crasset and breaking out of the traditional movie theater style with bold colors and open-air space, this former public space has been repurposed to bring Parisians together through cinema. The theater has numbered seats you can reserve in advance, and its cafe is adorable.

La Sorbonne https://www.sorbonne.fr/en/the-sorbonne/history-of-the-sorbonne/ La Sorbonne is renowned the world over and is an enchanting place to stroll around, snap some photos, and discover the vast history of this Parisian institution. Founded in 1253, it remains one of the world’s oldest aca- demic institutions. Grab a bite to eat at a nearby cafe and imagine what it was like to study here more than 700 years ago.

Grande Mosquée de Paris http://www.mosqueedeparis.net/ This beautiful mosque, one of the the largest in France, was built in 1922, was a secret refuge for Jews during WW2, and was fully renovated in 1992. Its serene gardens and elegant Ottoman architecture are a lovely counterpoint to the more traditional Parisian haunts. In the back (also accessible by separate entrance on rue Saint-Hilaire), there’s a cafe serving French/Moroccan cuisine (think couscous, tangines and the delicious Harira soup), and a tea room where we never get enough of the authentic Moroccan mint tea and pastries. Their Ham- mam is open to men on Tuesdays and Sundays — if you go, bring a 1€ coin for the lockers, skip the massage, and read up on Hammam etiquette http://theviewfrommorocco.blogspot.com/2006/12/future-home-for-view- from-fez.html first — there’s little instruction once you’re there.

Paris Catacombs http://www.catacombes.paris.fr/ Ignore the odor and immerse yourself in the cavernous underground tunnels of Paris, cryptic and bizarre and full of fascinating French history, where frightening history meets art for a kind of installation art we’ve never seen. You’ll find murals, explanations, and artifacts loaded into the city’s underground sewer system. The tours are full of stories and sights you can’t forget. This is one of the city’s most unusual attractions.

Cinema du Pantheon http://www.whynotproductions.fr/pantheon/ The Parisian church of cinema, this classic movie house is a must for film buffs. Every seat is dedicated to a legendary film maker and the theater normally has events going on, tribute nights, and sneak previews. The theater is small but charming and one of our favorite places to see a film on a dreary afternoon. Most people don’t realize there’s a restaurant on the top floor, but it’s worth a visit for the great food — and not many people know about it. PARIS: TOURIST OR TRAVELIST

Paris’ most iconic venues can be overwhelmed by tourists. And while it’s hard to say you’ve seen Paris without seeing these magnificent sites, it’s not hard to beat the crowds with a little insider information.

THE LOUVRE http://www.louvre.fr/en/ What can we say? It’s enormous, and if you’re going just to cross the Mona Lisa off your bucket list, you may be disappointed to find her diminutive self stuck behind thick glass and a crowd of tourists. You can’t avoid it (unless you arrive right when the museum opens, and head right to her), but you can avoid the long lines just to get in the museum. Here’s how:

There’s always a long line at the Pyramid entrance. To skip it — even without the Paris Musuem Pass — we use one of the back door entrances: the Port des Lions on the side facing the Seine, or the underground entrance from the Carousel du Louvre mall http://en.carrouseldulouvre.com/W/do/centre/accueil. The museum is also open late on Wednesday and Friday nights, with smaller crowds.

As for visiting, if you enter without a plan, you’re certain to be overwhelmed. A little advance research will save you frustration. This Three Hour Louvre plan http://www.gettingaway.com/directory/europe/france/paris/ louvre.htm is a great way to see the highlights of the museum’s collection. You can also take a guided tour of the museum http://www.louvre.fr/en/visites-guidees. If you’re on the bucket list tour, you can swing by Winged Victory, Venus de Milo and the Mona Lisa in 20 minutes. If you have the Paris Museum Pass, consider breaking your Louvre visit into several visits. If you’re visiting in the summer, note that most of the Louvre is not air-con- ditioned. Stick to the Richlieu Wing, which is, and avoid the museum entirely if it’s sweltering.

THE EIFFEL TOWER http://www.toureiffel.paris/en.html The view from the top of the tower is spectacular, but so are the lines for the elevators. There are a couple ways to skip them:

1. Climb the stairs. Not all the way up, just the 337 or 677 of them to the first or second floor. There’s rarely a line for the stairs, and you can pay the supplement for elevator ticket to the top once you’re there, where there’s almost never a line longer than ten minutes. It’s a good glute and cardio workout (we figure, at least the caloric equivalent of one pain au chocolat!), and gives you a chance to stop and admire the scenery on your way up.

2. Buy a ticket in advance. http://ticket.toureiffel.fr/index-css5-sete-pg1-lgen.html Because you want clear weather, we don’t recommend doing this days in advance. But you can print these at your hotel before heading out, or store them on a mobile phone, so even if you’re going on the spur of the moment, duck into Le Starbuck or McDo, use the free wifi, and buy your ticket online — this is a particularly good strategy for visiting at the magical sunset hour.

3. Go late in the day. The Tower is open until 11pm or midnight.

4. Book a reservation at one of the Tower restaurants, which grants you express access through a separate line.

Don’t miss the view of the Eiffel Tower from the Trocadéro. We recommend taking the métro to the Trocadéro station, and walking down the steps to the Eiffel Tower (unless you had two pain au chocolat for breakfast, in which case, you might consider the reverse). There are multiple dining options http://www.restaurants-toureiffel.com/UK/EIFFEL-TOWER-RESTAU- RANTS-PARIS/Snacking.html in the Tower itself, including three restaurants: 58 Tour Eiffel, Lounge Eiffel and Le Jules Verne, where Alain Ducasse serves one-star Michelin food. The more formal two require advance reser- vations. We prefer to grab a glass of bubbly from the Champagne bar at the very top, and eat nearby.

Au bon Accueil http://www.aubonaccueilparis.com/aunbonaccueilparis/Accueil.html is located in the shadow of the Tower, and if you can score one of their outdoor tables, you’ll be treated to a delicious view to match the food.

MUSÉE D’ORSAY http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/home.html This renovated train station is one of the world’s most exciting museums, known both for its Beaux-Arts archi- tecture and its collection — the world’s largest of impressionist and post-impressionist works. Although it is much smaller than the Louvre, the lines to get in are often longer, and some advance planning can save you from wasting one or two hours waiting to get in.

1. Don’t go on a Tuesday. With the Louvre closed, there’s even more of a crowd here.

2. Consider purchasing the Paris Museum Pass http://en.parismuseumpass.com/ (at the airport, from fnac, or one of the participating museums that is not so crowded)

3. Purchase a ticket in advance at one of the many ticketing offices of Fnac (at Fnac, Carrefour, Géant, Système U, and Bon Marché) or Ticketnet (at Virgin Megastore, Auchan, Leclerc, Galeries Lafayette).

4. You can buy a ticket online through fnac http://www.fnactickets.com/place-spectacle/manifestation/Musee- MUSEE-D-ORSAY---ENTREE-JOURNEE-ORS31.htm# and either print at your hotel, or pick up at the ticketing desk at any fnac store. (You’ll need your passport and the credit card you used to purchase the ticket).

5. Visit L’Orangerie first. There’s seldom a line here, and you can buy a combined ticket (valid Wednesday-Sun- day) and then use the ticket/pass holders entrance at the Musée d’Orsay.

N.B. Hold on to your Musée d’Orsay ticket — it’s good for reduced admission to the Gustave Moreau National Museum and the Palais Garnier (Paris National Opera).

LE CENTRE GEORGE POMPIDOU http://www.centrepompidou.fr/ This remarkable inside-out museum is in the heart of le Marais, situated along one of the primary east-west axes of the city center so it makes for just fantastic people watching. There are usually street performers, pro- testers, mimes, disgorged busloads of camera-toting tourists and lollygaggers from shady to fantabulous in the amphitheater-like cobblestone plaza at the entrance to the museum. You don’t even have to enter the build- ing to drink in the energy that makes this spot so special. When it was first proposed and built, local Parisians mostly clutched at their pearls and ascots, decrying the crazy design (functional elements like elevators and es- calators on the outside!? mon dieu, non!). But it has attracted more than 160M visitors since it opened in 1978.

Tips Locals call their once-loathed now beloved Pompidou Centre “Beauborg.” Purchase your tickets ahead of time online to avoid lines and the disappointment of being locked out of a limited-ticket event. Some of the modern art exhibited can be a tad, err, esoteric. It is helpful to have someone explain it. Consider joining a guided tour (various languages) via the ‘planning your visit’ section of the website. Georges http://www.beaumarly.com/georges/accueil, the high-end restaurant on top of the Pompidou Center Museum really is surprisingly underpromoted, given its excellent cuisine, and it pretty much has the most amaz- ing roof-terrace overlooking Paris monuments.

Be sure to take a close look at the whimsical Niki de Saint Phalle Fountain located just southwest of the muse- um in the Place Igor Stravinsky, consisting of sixteen separate sculptures inspired by Stravinsky’s music.

LA SEINE https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seine This mighty S-shaped ribbon of water has defined and shaped the city for over two millennia. It was in the center of what we now know as Paris that first the Parisii in 250 BC, a Celtic offshoot, then the Romans in 52 BC settled — near the Île de la Cité. It’s still a must for first-time visitors and a feature of Paris that attracts and beguiles visitors and locals alike. There could be no better way to spend a weekend day than simply walking along the river especially on a warm spring day.

Boat Tours and Transportation There are a number of boats plying the waters of the seine, offering 1-hour tours of central Paris, lunch and dinner cruises, and hop-on/hop-off service. We like the hop-on/hop-off convenience of theBatobus , http:// www.batobus.com/english/index.htm which allows your cruise to also serve as scenic transportation between the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame. The lines offering lunch and dinner cruises take their food very seriously, to satisfy the many French tourists who choose this option. Bateaux Mouches http://www.bateaux-mouches.fr/ en may be the best known, but we think the food on the Bateaux Parisiens http://www.bateauxparisiens.com/ is slightly better, with live thematic music, and three (lunch) or four (dinner) different service levels comprising different food, beverage and seating location options. Sundays during the warmer months the “quais” above the banks of the Seine (both right and left) are reserved for bikes and pedestrians.

Paris Plage http://www.paris.fr/english/visit/highlights/paris-plages/rub_8208_stand_34146_port_18969 This four-week celebration of the river with sand trucked in to create actual beaches along the banks of the Seine kicks off at the end of July. The beach experience is complete with sandy strands, deckchairs, ice cream peddlers, and concerts. WHERE WE WORK OUT

Day passes at gyms in Paris are ridiculously expensive. It’s better to pay for a sauna which has a gym (like Gym Louvre or IDM below) and then you can work out and, if in the mood, have a little nooky!

Gym Louvre http://www.gymlouvre.com/sauna-paris-gay-english/sauna-gay-paris.html This gym is 100% gay male. It has a tiny dressing area and a small, rather cramped gym space, where it is nonetheless possible to get a decent workout. But its claim to fame is the sauna in the basement where many of the pumped-up Parisians will venture after their workout. It’s usually more cruising than actual sex but it does supply a literally and figuratively steamy ending to your otherwise everyday gym routine. It’s only 16 euros (10 euros after 9pm) and if you are under 30 you pay even less.

Club Med Gym Palais Royal http://www.clubmedgym.com/ This fitness facility is much better equipped than Gym Louvre but it’s also more expensive with no sauna in the basement. You’ll have to weigh the pluses and minuses for yourself. GET SMART

Logistics and details. We’ll help you make the most of your time in Paris.

GETTING THERE Paris is a major European hub, with two large airports enjoying service from many destinations, with flag carrier Air France the European lynchpin of the Skyteam Alliance. From many European destinations, Paris is a quick and convenient train trip, making it easy to combine a visit to Paris with other destinations without dealing with airports. If you do arrive at one of the airports, take public transportation into the city. It is very expensive to take a cab and you risk being caught in horrendous traffic. The airport bus service into central Paris may also get caught in traffic, but it’s more direct and doesn’t involve climbing stairs, as other, non-dedicated public transportation might. If you have a lot of luggage and want to avoid the expense of a cab, take the airport bus into central Paris, and then taxi to your final destination.

From Charles de Gaulle to the city http://www.aeroportsdeparis.fr/en/passengers/access/paris-charles-de-gaulle/public-transport From Orly to the city http://www.aeroportsdeparis.fr/en/passengers/access/paris-orly/public-transport

CHIP AND PIN The smart chip credit card is standard in Europe, and while you should be able to use a magnetic stripe card in most stores and restaurants, you may have trouble with them in some older metro station vending machines, and the Vélib’ bike-share stands. Ask your credit card issuer if they offer a smart chip card. Chase and American Express have already begun issuing these. Note that Europeans enter a PIN code when using them at restau- rants; American cards don’t use the PIN and still require a signature.

SAVING TIME & MONEY The Paris Museum Pass http://en.parismuseumpass.com/ may not save you money, but it will save you time, which is even more precious during your stay in Paris. Particularly during the busy summer months, you can wait an hour or more to get into popular museums like the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay. You can also pre-pur- chase individual tickets online for the most popular museums and tourist attractions (like the Eiffel Tower), which will also allow you to skip the line. This blog post on Virtual Tourist http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/ Europe/France/Ile_de_France/Paris-99080/Warnings_or_Dangers-Paris-Long_Lines_and_Queues-BR-1.html is a good guide to avoiding lines.

If you can forego the services of a hotel for an apartment rental, you can find great deals in the city’s best and most convenient neighborhoods. You’ll find many properties listed on http://Airbnb.com , http:// gay-ville.com and the new http://misterbnb.com.

CULTURE TIPS Despite the homogenizing forces of globalization, there remains a large cultural gap between France and much of the rest of the world. In preparation for your visit to Paris, we highly recommend listening to David Sedaris’ four-part series on NPR http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1080195 (part 1) http://www. npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1080469 (part 2) http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?sto- ryId=1080727 (part 3) http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1080998 (part 4) and reading David Lebovitz’ book The Sweet Life in Paris, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/076792889X/ref=as_li_ss_ tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=076792889X&linkCode=as2&tag=manaboutworld-20 both of which offer extremely entertaining explorations of the peculiar French ways of doing things.

OUR TOP TOURIST TIPS 1. Speak as much French as you can. Parisians are most likely to speak English with you if you at least attempt a little French first. “Bonjour!” (“bon joor” — hello), “au revoir” (“owe ruh-voo-are” — goodbye), “s’il vous plaît” (“seel voo play” — please) and “merci” (“mare see” — thanks) should all be part of your vocabulary before “Parlez-vous anglais?” (“parlay voo anglay — do you speak english). Make eye contact when saying hello and goodbye. Also make eye contact when offering a toast (“salut” — “suh-lew” or “santé” — “health”) and sip your drink after clinking glasses. It’s considered rude not to sip your drink immediately after toasting some- one.. 2. The French eat bread with their meal, torn in small mouth-sized bites, not as a prelude to dining, and they normally leave their bread on the table (not on their plate). 3. The French love their dogs. Pooper scoopers, not so much. Watch where you walk. 4. The French eat leisurely. Don’t expect your waiter to deliver your check the moment you’ve finished eating. And do not yell “garçon” at him. It’s rude. Instead, say “s’il vous plaît, monsieur (or madame).” 5. Dress a little more smartly than you might in the US. 6. Greet shopkeepers with the same genial “bon jour monsieur/madame” that you would use if you were enter- ing their home. And say “Au revoir” and “merci” when you leave.

GETTING AROUND We love the Paris’ RATP public transportation system, except that Métro service is not 24 hours. The Métro closes at around 1:15am during the week and at 2:15am on the weekends. There are plenty of night busses but they can be a tad crowded. Vianavigo http://www.vianavigo.com/ is a user-friendly site for using the Métro and other public transport. Some other tips:

1. All tourist-popular destinations fall within central Paris Zones 1-3. You only need a Zone 5 ticket for the airports, Euro Disney and Versailles. 2. The Métro isn’t air-conditioned. Just saying. You might want to avoid it on crowded hot summer days. 3. Buy a multiple-day pass or at least a carnet (package of 10 single tickets) to save time and money. Information http://www.ratp.fr/en/ratp/r_61584/tickets/ 4. Avoid taking taxis which tend to be both expensive and difficult to find especially after the subway closes on a weekend night. Quel horreur! Instead use Vélib’ http://www.velib.paris.fr short-term bike rental or Au- tolib’ http://www.autolib.eu the Parisian version of Zip Car. Note you’ll most likely need a smart chip credit card to use it. 5. The RER is Paris’ suburban rail system, but traverses central Paris, runs to the airports, and uses the same Zoned tickets as the Métro.

WEBSITES/APPS These websites will provide useful day-to-day information for planning your visit. Many of the sites have links to download a (free) app for your smartphone or tablet.

• www.paris.fr : Official website of the City of Paris • www.parisgayvillage.com Website tours of Paris neighborhoods gay • www.parisnightlife.fr Official website of Paris nightlife • http://www.paris.fr/piscines A guide to the 39 public pools of Paris • www.creativeparis.info A site to find courses and workshops in all artistic disciplines in Paris • http://en.parisinfo.com/what-to-do-in-paris/info/guides/paris-capitale-de-la-creation Paris tourism site about the Capitale de la Creation • https://www.facebook.com/paris.gay/ A comprehensive facebook page about gay life in Paris • http://www.patroc.com/paris/ Another good source for up-to-date listings of gay Paris • http://www.mygaytrip.com/en/guide-gay/france/paris This site features listings and includes a social feature allowing you to meet locals and other visitors (many Francophones). • http://www.meteo-paris.com Your weather report for the next five days (default is in degrees Celsius). • http://www.allocine.fr/ This is a good online resource for films. Be sure to note whether you want to see it in v.o. (version originale) rather than v.f. (version francçaise). • http://slash-paris.com/ For exhibitions and events. • http://www.qweek.fr This is the best of the free gay magazines, and it has a good set of updated event and nightlife listings. • http://www.misterbnb.com/en/ Gay-friendly apartments and rooms in Paris • http://gay-ville.com: Gay-friendly apartments and rooms in Paris • http://www.galead.com/: Launched in May 2013, this promises to be the world’s largest LGBTI community network ever created. • http://www.oscarwildetours.com/gay-londongay-paris/ Oscar Wilde Tours, periodically offering gay tours of Paris.