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Home , Palais de Tokyo, Thermes de Cluny

The history of is related in its monuments and squares, its sweeping boulevards and dank alleys, its chic boutiques and raucous markets. In this guide we have divided the sightseeing chapter into manageable segments, all easy to visit on foot or by métro. For day-trips into the outskirts, take the RER train. Contents Features cityLights...... 5 Children’s Paris 26 cityPast ...... 9 Soup for the soul 33 citySights...... 19 Going for a song 55 Food, glorious food 75 The Islands and the ...... 20 Paris on the screen 88 Latin Quarter ...... 28 French bread 110 Saint-Germain, ...... 36 Maps Invalides Versailles 99 and ...... 46 Centre 130 -Opéra 132 Louvre and Palais Royal ...... 50 133 Halles, Marais ...... 58 Paris fold-out Bastille, Bercy, Belleville ...... 66 Métro fold-out Grands Boulevards ...... 72 Champs-Elysées and the West...... 78 Montmartre and the North ...... 90 Around Paris...... 96 cityBites ...... 101 cityNights...... 113 Symbols: cityFacts ...... 119 f Our favourites Index...... 134 m Métro station r RER station h Wheelchair access 82 CITYSIGHTS museum, and it only recently left Rue du Paradis for the elegant surroundings of the former mansion of Marie-Laure de Noailles. Over a thousand objects from past collections are displayed here, in a decor designed by Philippe Starck. Fine pieces are sold in the shop, and there’s another boutique at 11, place de la Madeleine (8th). • Daily (except Tues, Sun and public holidays) 10am– 6.30pm • 11, place des Etats-Unis (16th) m Kléber, Iéna

Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris (C3) Temporary exhibitions on fashion through the ages, from the 18th century to the present day. • Closed for renovation till early 2010 • Palais Galliéra, 10, av. Pierre Ier-de-Serbie (16th) m Iéna r Pont de l’Alma h

Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris (C3) In the east wing of the Palais de Toyko, 20th-century artworks: murals by Sonia and Robert Delau- nay, Matisse, La Fée Electricité by Dufy, said to be the biggest painting in the world. Temporary exhibitions. • Daily (except Mon and public holidays) 10am–6pm, Thurs to 10pm during temporary exhibitions. Free admission. t01 53 67 40 00 • 11, av. du Président-Wilson (16th) m Iéna r Pont de l’Alma

Palais de Tokyo (C3) Contemporary creations, including hands-on exhibits, do-it-yourself graffiti, and so on. • Daily (except Mon) noon–midnight • 13, av. du Président-Wilson (16th) m Iéna r Pont de l’Alma h

Palais de Chaillot and Esplanade du Trocadéro (C3) From the terrace of the symmetrical 1930s “palace” the view stretches over the gardens and fountains of the Trocadéro, through the arch of the tower and along the all the way to the elegant Ecole Militaire, with the golden dome of the Invalides and the curving Y-shaped UNESCO building on the horizon. • Place du Trocadéro (16th) m Trocadéro

Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle – Musée de l’Homme (C3) Anthropological and prehistoric collections, tracing man’s evolution. • Closed for renovation until 2012 • Palais de Chaillot, 17, place du Trocadéro (16th) m Trocadéro h CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES AND THE WEST 83

The area around Balzac’s house in rue Raynouard has a bucolic atmosphere.

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (C3) In the east wing of the Palais de Chaillot, this is the largest centre devoted to architecture in the world. It includes the Institut français d’architecture, the Ecole de Chaillot, and the Musée des Monuments français, whose scale models of great monuments, copies of sculpture, reproductions of wall paintings tell the story of French archi- tecture from the Romanesque era to modern times. • Daily (except Tues and some public holidays) 11am–7pm,Thurs to 9pm t0158 51 52 00 • Palais de Chaillot, east wing, 1, place du Trocadéro (16th) m Trocadéro

Musée national de la Marine (C3) The history of navigation and maritime transport, fishing, the underwater world, daily life in the arsenals, and so on. Scale models of ships, figureheads, paintings, ancient maps, sextants, compasses and astrolabes and thousands of other nautical objects. • Daily (except Tues, Jan 1, May 1) 10am–6pm t01 53 65 69 69 • Palais de Chaillot, wing, 17, place du Trocadéro (16th) m Trocadéro h

CityNights

The best way of finding out what’s on is to invest €0.40 in the Pariscope or l’Officiel des Spectacles, weekly listings magazines with information on all the entertainment that livens up Parisian nights. Pariscope has an English supplement edited by Time Out, with reviews, a rundown of the club scene and information on events in English. Tickets are usually put on sale two weeks before opening night. Book seats through your travel agent, your hotel concierge, at Virgin Megastore, 52, av. des Champs- Elysées, at the FNAC at Forum des Halles (level –3), or at the venues themselves. Half-price theatre tickets for performances the same day are sold at Kiosque Théâtre, Place de la Madeleine (Tues–Sat 12.30– 8pm).A commission is charged. Special prices are available for children, students (with International Student Card) and senior citizens (over 60). Theatres 114 Nightclubs 114 Jazz clubs and piano bars 115 Cabaret and café-théâtre 116 Concert halls and shows 117 134 INDEX

Allée des Brouillards 94 – de Fontainebleau 98 – Saint-Séverin 29 Antiques 41 – de Malmaison 96 – Saint-Sulpice 38 Aquaboulevard 27 – de Versailles 98 Eiffel Tower 47, 48, 86 81, 86 – de Vincennes 96 Espace Montmartre- Arènes de Lutèce 31 Churches, see Eglise Salvador Dali 91 Au Lapin Agile 94 Cimetière Esplanade des Invalides 48 Au Nain Bleu 56 – de Montmartre 91 – du Trocadéro 82 Avenue d’Iéna 86 – du Montparnasse 43 Faubourg Saint-Antoine 68 – Junot 94 – du Père-Lachaise 69 Fauchon 74 – Rapp 48 – Saint-Vincent 94 Fondation Cartier 43 Banque de France 76 Cinémathèque française 68 – Claude Monet 97 Basilique Notre-Dame des Cité de l’Architecture et du Fontaine Stravinsky 64 Victoires 54 Patrimoine 83 Forum des Halles 59, 64 – du Sacré-Cœur 90 – des Enfants 27 Galerie Colbert 76 – Saint-Denis 93 – des Sciences et de – de Montpensier 76 – Sainte-Clotilde 42 l’Industrie 68–69 – de Valois 76 Bateau-Lavoir 94 Cloître des Billettes 61 – Véro-Dodat 54, 76 Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville Concert halls 117 – Vivienne 54, 76 (BHV) 60 21 Galeries nationales du Belleville 17 Conservatoire Erik Satie 48 79 Bercy Village 68 Cours Damoye 70 Gardens, see Jardin(s) Berthillon 22–23 Deportation Memorial 24 Giverny 97 Bibliothèque nationale de Disneyland Resort Paris 96 Golden Triangle 85 France 32 Ecole Militaire 48 84 Eglise de l’Assomption 56 de la Défense 85 Bois-Préau 96 – de la Madeleine 72–3 Hédiard 74 Bon Marché 42 – Saint-Etienne- Historial Charles de Boulevard Haussmann 72 du-Mont 30, 34 Gaulle 46 – du Montparnasse 44 – Saint-Eustache 59, 64 Hôtel-Dieu 24 – Raspail 44 – Saint-Germain- – de Mortagne 70 – Saint-Germain 44 l’Auxerrois 54 – national des Invalides 46 Bouquinistes 23 – Saint-Germain- – de Noailles 56 Boutique Maille 75 des-Prés 39 – de Sens 63 Bridges 23 – Saint-Gervais- – de Ville 60 Canal Saint-Martin 67 Saint-Protais 61 Ilot Candie- Carré Rive Gauche 40 – Saint-Jean de Saint-Bernard 70 Catacombes 43 Montmartre 91 40 Caviar Kaspia 75 – Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre 29 – du Monde arabe 31 Cemeteries, see Cimetière – Saint-Louis- Jardin(s) Centre national d’Art en-l’Ile 21–22, 24 – d’Acclimatation 26, 85 et de Culture Georges – Saint-Médard 34 – de Fleurs 64 Pompidou 26, 59-60, 64 – Saint-Merri 60, 64 – des Halles 26 Champ-de-Mars 26, 48 – Saint-Pierre – du Luxembourg 26, 37, Champs-Elysées 79, 86 de Montmartre 91 44 Château de Chantilly 97 – Saint-Roch 56 – des Plantes 32 INDEX 135

– sauvage St-Vincent 94 – d’Art moderne de la Ville – du Parfum 73 – Shakespeare 84 de Paris 82 – Picasso 61 – du Trocadéro 86 – des Arts asiatiques – – de la Publicité 51 – des Tuileries 52 Guimet 81 - du quai Branly 47 Jazz clubs 115–116 – des Arts décoratifs 51 – de la Sculpture en plein Jeu de Paume – des Arts forains 68 air 31 (site Concorde) 52 – Auguste Rodin 42 – de la Vie romantique 91 (site Sully) 62 – Baccarat 81-82 – du Vin 84 Lafayette Gourmet 74 – des Beaux-Arts de la Ville – Vivant du Cheval 98 Le Bon Marché 42 de Paris 79 – Zadkine 38 Louvre des Antiquaires 53 – Bourdelle 43 Nécropole royale 93 Mairie du 18e – Carnavalet 61 Nicolas 74 Arrondissement 94 – Cernuschi 80 Nightclubs 114–116 83–84 – Cognacq-Jay 61 Notre-Dame de Paris 20, 24 – du Chocolat 75 – Condé 98 Observatoire de Paris 38 – européenne de la – des Egouts 46 Odéon 38 Photographie 62 – Grévin 27, 74 Pagode, La 42 – de Victor Hugo 62 – Gustave-Moreau 91 Palais de Chaillot 82, 86 – de la Truffe 75 – de l’Homme 82-83 – de la Cité 21 Marché d’Aligre 70 – Jacquemart-André 80–81 – de la Découverte 27, – Bastille 67 – de la Légion d’Honneur – 79–80 – Beauvau et des Ordres de – Garnier 74 Saint-Antoine 55, 70 Chevalerie 41 – de Justice 21, 24 – biologique 43, 55 – du Luxembourg 38 – de Tokyo 82 – aux Fleurs 21, 24 – Maillol 41 Opéra national de Paris – – du Livre ancien – Marmottan-Monet 84 74 et d’occasion 55 – de la Mode et Palais-Royal 53–54, 76 – Maubert 31 du Textile 51–52 Panthéon 30 – Mouffetard 31 – de la Mode de la Ville Parc André-Citroën 47 – aux Oiseaux 21, 24 de Paris 82 – Astérix 96–97 – Place de la Bourse 55 – de la Monnaie 40 – de Bagatelle 85 – aux Puces 93 – des Monuments – de Belleville 69 – Saint-Germain 38–39 français 82 – Monceau 80 – Saint-Pierre 55 – de la Musique 69 – Montsouris 43 – aux Timbres 80 – national Eugène Paris Museum Pass 7 Marionnettes 26 Delacroix 39–40 Paris Story 74 Mémorial de la Shoah 63 – – d’Histoire Passage du Caire 74 Mobilier national – naturelle 32, 82 – l’Homme 70 Manufacture nationale – – du Louvre 50–51 Passerelle des Arts 23 des Gobelins 32 – – de la Marine 83–84 – Solférino 23 Montmartre 92 – de Montmartre 91 Paul salon de thé 75 Mosquée 31 – – du Moyen-Age 30 Piano bars 115–116 Musée – Nissim de Camondo 80 Pinacothèque de Paris 73 Dapper 81 – de l’Orangerie 52 66–67, – d’Art américain 97 – d’Orsay 40–41 70 136 INDEX

– Colette 76 Puppet shows 26 – Vavin 44 – de la Concorde 79 Quai de l’Horloge 24 – Vieille du Temple 64 – de la Contrescarpe 34 Quartier Saint-Séverin 29 Saint-Germain-des- – Dalida 94 Rollerblading 27 Prés 37 – Dauphine 21 44 Sainte-Chapelle 21, 24 – d’Iéna 86 – de la Bûcherie 34 Sentier 75 – Igor-Stravinsky 60 – de Charonne 70 Shakespeare and Co 29 – du Marché – Fleurus 44 Société Générale 75 Saint-Honoré 56 – du Four 44 Sorbonne 30 – Marlène-Dietrich 86 – des Francs-Bourgeois 64 Square Rapp 48 – Maubert 34 – de la Gaîté 43 – Trousseau 70 – Saint-Michel 28–29, 34 – Hamelin 86 – du Vert-Galant 21, 24 – Saint-Sulpice 44 – de la Huchette 34 92, 117 – du Tertre 91 – de Lappe 70 Theatre tickets 115 – du Trocadéro 86 – de la Montagne-Sainte- Thermes de Cluny 30 – Vendôme 52–53 Geneviève 34 Tour Jean sans Peur 59 – des Vosges 62, 64 – Mont-Cenis 94 – Montparnasse 42–43 Pont Alexandre III 23 – Mouffetard 34 – Saint-Jacques 60 – de l’Alma 23 – de Rivoli 52, 56 Vaux-le-Vicomte 98 – de l’Archevêché 23 – des Rosiers 61, 64 Verger de la Madeleine 75 – de la Concorde 23 – Saint-Benoît 44 Viaduc des Arts 68, 70 – d’Iéna 23 – Saint-Florentin 56 Vigne du – 23 – Saint-Honoré 56 Clos-Montmartre 94 – Neuf 23, 24 – Sainte-Croix de la Village Saint-Paul 63 Promenade plantée 70 Bretonnerie 64 – suisse 47

General Editor Barbara Ender Features Jack Altman Research Marc Michel Photo credits G. Minder pp. 4, 6, 8, 17, 26 (centre), 27 (bottom right), 33, 41, 63, 85 (top), 105, 106, 110, 111, 118; CORBIS/Dallas & John Heaton p. 7; hemis.fr/Jioux pp. 12–13; /Renault p. 67; /Krinitz p. 112; Marc Michel pp. 14, 26 (bottom right), 53, 83, 85 (bottom), 103, 115, 129; M.-C. Peitrequin pp. 18, 23, 37,47 (bottom), 55, 75, 100, 102, 107, 108, 109; Barbara Ender pp. 22, 39; © Disney p. 26 (bottom left); C. Huber p. 27; P. Claveirole p. 47 (top); istockphoto.com/texasmary p. 7, /Panosian p.114 (left), /Nguyen p.114( right); Maud Mabillard p. 93; Lido p. 116 (bottom); R. Holzbachová p. 116 (top). Maps: Elsner & Schichor; JPM Publications

Copyright © 2009, 2006 JPM Publications S.A., 12, avenue William-Fraisse, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland [email protected] – www.jpmguides.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system without permission in writing from the publisher. Every care has been taken to verify the information in the guide, but neither the publisher nor his client can accept responsibility for any errors that may have occurred. If you spot an inaccuracy or a serious omis- sion, please let us know. Printed in Switzerland – Weber Benteli/Bienne 10256.00.5610 – Edition 2009