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Place, Taste, and Sustenance: The Social Spaces of Food and Agriculture 2006 Joint Annual Meetings of the Association for the Study of Food and Society (ASFS) and the Agriculture, Food and Human Values Society (AFHVS) Wednesday, June 7 – Sunday June 11, 2006 Hosted by Boston University Gastronomy Program Conference Sponsors Association for the Study of Food and Society The Association for the Study of Food and Society (ASFS) is a multidisciplinary international organization dedicated to exploring the complex relationships among food, culture, and society. Its members, who approach the study of food from numerous disciplines in the humanities, social sciences, and sciences, as well as in the world of food beyond the academy, draw on a wide range of theoretical and practical approaches and seek to promote discussions about food which transgress traditional boundaries. President: Alice Julier, Smith College Vice President: Netta Davis, Boston University Treasurer and Membership Czar: Jennifer Berg, New York Universiy Secretary and Listserv Manager: Jonathan Deutsch, Kinsborough Community College, CUNY Journal Editor: Warren Belasco, University of Maryland Baltimore County Chair of Paper Prize Committee: Dr. Elaine Power Webmaster: Gary Allen, Independent Food Writer Agriculture, Food and Human Values Society AFHVS provides a continuing link among scholars working in cross-disciplinary studies of food and agriculture. From a base of philosophers, sociologists and anthropologists, AFHVS has grown to include scientists, scholars and practitioners in areas ranging from agricultural production and social science to nutrition policy and the humanities. AFHVS provides a forum for examining the values that underlie various visions of food and agricultural systems, and it offers members the opportunity to meet and discuss programs and research ideas of common interest. AFHVS encourages participation by the growing community of researchers and professionals exploring alternative visions of the food system, including regional food policies, community supported agriculture, and issues of local and global food security. President: Lorna Michael Butler, Iowa State University Vice President: Mary Hendrickson, University of Missouri Executive Secretary: Richard Haynes, University of Florida Council Members: James Bingen, Michigan State University Douglas Constance, Sam Houston State University Gilbert Gillespie, Cornell University Nancy Grudens-Schuck, Iowa State University Neva Hassanein, University of Montana Dana Jackson, Land Stewardship Project Marcy Ostrom, Washington State University Mike Skladany, Bemidji State University Acknowledgements This conference could not have happened without the generous support and contributions of many people. Kara Nielsen, Neil Coletta and Brittni Homer, of Boston University’s Program in Gastronomy dedicated many hours towards registration and formatting the conference program. I’m sure you will also see them tirelessly working during the conference, helping wherever needed. Alice Julier, Jennifer Berg, Jonathan Deutsch, Annie Hauck-Lawson, and Netta Davis were simply a delight to watch, as with expert creativity they made a sometimes-disparate group of papers into a coherent and exciting program (with a complex color-coding system that would make Martha green with envy). Jasper White and Jeff Dugan were instrumental in the planning and execution of the banquet. Our stomachs thank them. I’d also like to thank David Kessler for organizing the Shanty Singers and thank them all for donating their time and “singing for their supper”. Our ears thank them. Lynne Cooney, Exhibit Coordinator of Boston University’s School of Visual Arts was infectious with her enthusiasm when organizing the art exhibit “Sweetness.” Shaun Chavis of Boston University was tenuous in organizing the evenings of film. Joe York generously sent us his poignant documentaries and Giacom kept “The Real Dirt on Farmer John” within our budget. Deborah Higgins, of Boston University’s Catering on the Charles, was extremely patient with me, as I lamented over what to serve “foodies” and “aggies.” Jim Eisenberg, of the Reservations Department was likewise patient when I was late to submit paperwork, but kindly did not give our conference rooms away. The Boston Beer Company, AKA Sam Adams, was extraordinarily generous to help keep our thirsts quenched, and Ocean Spray, Cabot Cheese, Best Friend’s Cocoa, NECCO (New England Candy Company), Newman’s Own, Annie’s Naturals, Mountain Herbal Foods, Goodbaker, the National Bitter Melon Council, and Cape Cod Potato Chips also generously gave. A rousing thanks to Jason Sobocinski, Kara Nielsen, and Sandy Block all of Boston University for planning and organizing their tasting classes. The same thanks to Amy Trubek of UVM and George Howell of Terroir Coffees. For the tours, I’d like to thank the aforementioned Kara, Shaun & Neil, along with Jason Ryan, Katie Cavalier, BU alumni, Abigail Carroll and Ilona Baughman of Boston University, and Nancy Stutzman of the Culinary Historians of Boston for chaperoning us around Greater Boston. Ellen Shea, Schlesinger Library, and Louella Hill of Farm Fresh RI, Bik Ng, Michelle Topor, all of the folks at Farm Project, also put much work into the planning of the tours, along with Netta Davis, who made more phone calls than one would think possible to arrange these. The Class of MET ML631 worked diligently on preparing food for one of the receptions. Elizabeth Navisky, Kristina Nies, Kimberly Kuborn, Mark Banville, Amanda Mayo, Gary Wallis, Vivian Liberman, Ilona Baughman, Emily Schwab and Jennifer Feng, all of Boston University, volunteered many hours, helping whenever needed to make sure the conference ran as smoothly as possible. I would be amiss to not thank Boston University’s Metropolitan College. Dean Jay Halfond and Associate Dean Tanya Zlateva were incredibly supportive in hosting the conference Finally, this conference could not have been a success without the continued support, guidance, and a huge amount of help from Rebecca Alssid, Director, Programs in Gastronomy and Netta Davis, of the ASFS and Boston University. Beth Marie Forrest Assistant Director, Programs in Gastronomy Boston University Place, Taste, and Sustenance: The Social Spaces of Food and Agriculture 2006 Joint Annual Meetings of the Association for the Study of Food and Society (ASFS) and the Agriculture, Food and Human Values Society (AFHVS) Wednesday, June 7 – Sunday June 11, 2006 Hosted by Boston University Gastronomy Program CONFERENCE SCHEDULE GSU (George Sherman Union) 775 Commonwealth Avenue FUL (Fuller Building) 808 Commonwealth Avenue *These are sold out events with limited enrollment. You MUST be registered in advance in order to attend. Wednesday, June 7 Early Registration Room 109, 808 Commonwealth Avenue Preconference Tours ~ leave from room 109, 808 Commonwealth Ave. Plimoth Plantation (noon–7 p.m.)* Seventeenth-century open air museum, home of the Wampanoag Indians and the Pilgrims (of Mayflower fame). After the tour of the museum, which will highlight the agriculture and foods of the Native Americans and Pilgrims, we will stop at a local clam-shack to enjoy dinner (price not included in tour). Walking Tour of Boston’s North End (2:30–6 p.m.)* Join us for a culinary tour through Boston’s oldest neighborhood, home of The Old North Church (one if by land/two if by sea), Paul Revere’s house, the great Molasses Flood, and today, rich in Italian culture. On this walking tour, we will visit pastry and confection shops, the fishmonger, greengrocer, salumeria, and liquor stores. Samples of food and drink will also be tried along the way. Trip to Schlesinger Library (6–8 p.m.)* Extensive collection of cookbooks, women’s history, and the papers of Julia Child & MFK Fisher. The Food Project (Urban Farming and Agricultural Sustainability) (1-4 p.m.)* Located in and around Boston, The Food Project aims to grow a productive community of youth and adults from diverse backgrounds who work together to build a sustainable food system. On this tour, we will visit one of their urban roof-top gardens and hear about their programs, including French Fries and the Food System: A Year Round Curriculum Connecting Youth with Farming and Food. Lunch will be prepared and served by The Food Project Kitchen. 7:00 – 8:30 p.m. Registration and informal welcome reception at room 109, FUL 7:30 p.m. – Screening of Joe York Documentaries The Whole Hog, Marsaw & The Welcome Table – GSU Conference Auditorium Thursday, June 8 8:15 am – 6:00 pm Registration, GSU 2nd Floor 9:00 – 10:30 am Sessions 1:1 19TH Century Food: Horsemeat, Dead Meat & No Meat 1:2 Engaging CUNY Students in the Study of New York City’s Foodways & Foodscapes 1:3 Conceptual Issues in Sustainable Agriculture 1:4 Dorms, Dudes & Dining: On-Campus Food Culture 1:5 Eating on the Dark Side: Food, Pain & Conflict, Part I 1:6 Food and Imperialism: Edible Empires 1:7 Sustaining Producers: Farmers & Farmer Education 1:8 Philosophy, Place, and Gender in Food Discourse 10:30 – 11:00 Break – GSU, Small Ballroom 11:00 am – 12:30 pm Sessions 2:1 Othering Consumption: Restaurants, Race and Cuisine 2:2 Little Farmer Meet Corporate Kitchen 2:3 Building Community with Bitterness: a Discussion with South End Culinary Collaborators on Bitter Melon Week, 2005 2:4 OPEN 2:5 Dark Eating II 2:6 OPEN 2:7 Communities and Development: Lessons in Sustainable Agriculture 2:8 Boston Farmers and Food Organizations 2:9 Who’s Thirsty? 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