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The Pennsylvania State University the Graduate School College Of The Pennsylvania State University The Graduate School College of Agricultural Sciences VEGETARIANISM IN A MEAT LANDSCAPE A CASE STUDY OF VEGETARIANS IN LA PLATA, ARGENTINA A Thesis in Rural Sociology by Anne DeLessio-Parson © 2013 Anne DeLessio-Parson Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Science August 2013 The thesis of Anne DeLessio-Parson was reviewed and approved* by the following: Anouk Patel-Campillo Assistant Professor of Rural Sociology Thesis Advisor C. Clare Hinrichs Professor of Rural Sociology Rural Sociology Graduate Program Coordinator Carolyn Sachs Professor of Rural Sociology Head of Women’s Studies Department *Signatures are on file in the Graduate School ii ABSTRACT Eating represents more than a biological function: it is an act influenced by markets, conditioned by individual beliefs and family traditions, and firmly embedded in social relations. Vegetarianism in the West is an area where these tensions come into play. It is frequently conceptualized as an individual-level decision driven by concerns for animal rights, personal health, the environment, world hunger, and spirituality. However, because meals are often shared experiences, vegetarianism decisively affects friendships and family relationships. Little is known about the social implications of such dietary change, particularly outside of advanced industrialized countries. Even less is known about vegetarianism in Argentina, where beef consumption has historically been the world’s highest and the culinary tradition of the asado (≈ barbecue) forms an integral part of the national identity. This case study adopts a qualitative approach to examine vegetarianism as it is practiced in a meat-dominant cultural context of the Global South. In-depth interviews with 23 vegans and vegetarians in La Plata, Argentina, delved into their narratives of conversion and the ways their practices affect social relationships. Findings indicate that most participants cited animal welfare as their primary motivation and that they have faced reactions from meat-eaters ranging from adaption and accommodation to concern, bewilderment, resistance, or even hostility. An attitudinal typology of vegetarianism is developed, which serves to reveal striking gender differences in the ways that vegetarians re-position themselves in the meat landscape. Women generally exhibited attitudes consistent with active adaptation and tolerance; several embraced traditions such as the asado and cook meat for others, including non-vegetarian partners. In contrast, men generally rejected these traditions and, of those in committed partnerships, all were with other vegetarians. Examining gender differences in the reconciliation of personal beliefs and culturally-defined food traditions serves to highlight social barriers to dietary change. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS List of Tables ................................................................................................................................. vi List of Figures ............................................................................................................................... vii Acknowledgments........................................................................................................................ viii Chapter 1. WHY STUDY VEGETARIANISM IN ARGENTINA? ......................................................... 1 Introduction .................................................................................................................1 Meat Matters ................................................................................................................4 Beef and the Agro-Export Model .................................................................................. 4 Perón and Popularizing Meat ......................................................................................... 6 Argentine Beef in Decline? ........................................................................................... 8 A Brief History of Vegetarianism .............................................................................11 Vegetarians Appear in Argentina ..............................................................................12 Research Questions ...................................................................................................14 Overview of Thesis ....................................................................................................14 Chapter 2. CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK: FOOD, IDENTITY, AND VEGETARIANISM .................. 17 Food As Identity ........................................................................................................18 Meat and Masculinity ................................................................................................21 Vegetarianism in the Literature .................................................................................24 Becoming Vegetarian .................................................................................................. 26 Motivations ......................................................................................................... 26 Conversion in the English-Speaking World ....................................................... 27 Traditional Religiosity ........................................................................................ 29 Practicing Vegetarianism – What We Know ............................................................... 30 Saving Face ........................................................................................................ 30 Relationships And Sexuality .............................................................................. 31 Conclusion .................................................................................................................32 Chapter 3. METHODOLOGICAL APPROACH, STUDY CONTEXT, AND DATA COLLECTION ....... 33 Why Qualitative? .......................................................................................................33 Vegetarianism in La Plata: A Case Study Approach .................................................34 Contributions from Grounded Theory .......................................................................36 Study Context: La Plata, Argentina ...........................................................................37 Researcher Perspective ..............................................................................................39 Fieldwork ...................................................................................................................42 Sampling ....................................................................................................................44 Participants Overview ...............................................................................................45 Conclusion .................................................................................................................48 Chapter 4. BECOMING VEGETARIAN .......................................................................................... 49 Meanings of Vegetarianism .......................................................................................51 A Model of Conversion .............................................................................................55 “Who I Was” ............................................................................................................... 58 Catalyst / Exposure to New Information ..................................................................... 61 Repression (and Return to Meat-Eating) ..................................................................... 63 iv Realization ................................................................................................................... 66 A Life-Long Commitment .........................................................................................67 Lone Vegetarians: Sos Un Bicho Raro ....................................................................70 Conclusion on Becoming Vegetarian ........................................................................73 Chapter 5. PRACTICING VEGETARIANISM .................................................................................. 74 Reported Reactions ....................................................................................................75 Dismissal: “You’ve lost it” or “It won’t last” .............................................................. 76 Concerns ...................................................................................................................... 78 “What about your kids?” .................................................................................... 78 Jokes ............................................................................................................................ 81 Defending the Decision .............................................................................................83 Vegetarian Re-positioning in the Meat Landscape ...................................................85 Rejection. ..................................................................................................................... 88 Avoidance. ................................................................................................................... 92 Tolerance. .................................................................................................................... 93 Active Adaptation. ......................................................................................................
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