THE MEDITERRANEAN The MEDITERRANEAN Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins By T. G. Bonney, E. A. R. Ball, H. D, Traill, Grant Allen, Arthur Griffiths and Robert Brown ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAVURES NEW YORK James pott & Company 1907 CONTENTS PAGE I. THE PILLARS OF HERCULES, . i Portals of the ancient world Bay of Tangier at sunrise Tarifa The Rock of Gibraltar Wonders of its fortifications After- jxm promenade in the Alameda Gardens Ascending the Rock View from the highest point The Great Siege Ceuta, the principal Spanish stronghold on the Moorish coast The rock of many names. II. ALGIERS, 28 "A Pearl set in Emeralds "Two distinct towns; one ancient, one modern The Great Mosque A Mohammedan religious fes- tivalOriental life in perfection The road to Mustapha Supe*- rieur A true Moorish villa described Women praying to a sacred tree Excessive rainfall. III. MALAGA, 42 A nearly perfect climate Continuous existence of thirty cen- turies Granada and the world-renowned Alhambra Systems of irrigation Vineyards the chief source of wealth Esparto grass The famous Cape de Gatt The highest peak of the Sierra Nevada Last view of Granada. IV. BARCELONA, 61 The flower market of the Rambla Streets of the old town The Cathedral of Barcelona Description of the Columbus monu- mentAll Saints' Day in Spain Mont Tibidaho Diverse cen- ters of intellectual activity Ancient history Philanthropic and charitable institutions. V. MARSEILLES, 94 Its Greek founders and early history Superb view from the sea The Cannebiere The Prado and Chemin de la Corniche Chateau d'lf and Monte-Cristo Influence of the Greeks in Marseilles Ravages by plague and pestilence Treasures of the Palais des Arts The Chapel of Notre Dame de la Garde The new Marseilles and its future. VI. NICE, 124 The Queen of the Riviera The Port of Limpia Castle Hill- Promenade des Anglais The Carnival and Battle of Flowers Place Massdna, the center of business Beauty of the suburbs vi CONTENTS ?AGE The road to Monte Carlo The quaintly picturesque town of Villefranche Aspects of Nice and its environs. VII. THE RIVIERA, 145 In the days of the Doges Origin of the name The blue bay of Cannes Ste. Marguerite and St. Honorat Historical asso- " ciations The Rue L'Antibes The rock of Monaco Notre " Dame de la Roulette From Monte Carlo to Mentone San Remo A romantic railway. VIII. GENOA, . 160 Early history Old fortifications The rival of Venice Changes of twenty-five years From the parapet of the Corso The lower town The Genoese palazzi Monument to Christopher Colum- bus The old Dogana Memorials in the Campo Santo The Bay of Spezzia The Isola Palmeria Harbor scenes. IX. THE TUSCAN COAST, 192 Shelley's last months at Lerici Story of his death Carrara and its marble quarries Pisa Its grand group of ecclesiastical buildings The cloisters of the Campo Santo Napoleon's life on Elba Origin of the Etruscans The ruins of Tarquinii Civita Vecchia, the old port of Rome Ostia. X. VENICE, 220 Its early days The Grand Canal and its palaces Piazza of St. Mark A Venetian funeral The long line of islands Venetian glass Torcello, the ancient Altinum Its two unique churches. XI. ALEXANDRIA, 234 The bleak and barren shores of the Nile Delta Peculiar shape of the city Strange and varied picture of Alexandrian street life The Place Mehemet Ali Glorious panorama from the Cairo citadel Pompey's Pillar The Battle of the Nile Dis- covery of the famous inscribed stone at Rosetta Port Said and the Suez Canal. XII. MALTA, . 267 " England's Eye in the Mediterranean "Vast systems of forti- fications Sentinels and martial music The Strada Reale of Valletta Church of St. John St. Elmo The Military Hos- " Paul pital, the "very glory of Malta Citta Vecchia Saint and his voyages. CONTENTS vii PAGE XIII. SICILY, 295 Scylla and Charybdis Messina, the chief commercial center of Sicily The magnificent ruins of the Greek Theater at Taor- mina Omniprescence of Mt. Etna Approach to Syracuse The famous Latomia del Paradise Girgenti, the City of Tem- ples Railway route to Palermo Mosaics Cathedral and Abbey of Monreale Monte Pellegrino at the hour of sunset. XIV. NAPLES, '. ... 325 The Bay of Naples Vesuvius Characteristic scenes of street life The al fresco restaurants Chapel of St. Januarius Vir- gil's Tomb Capri, the Mecca of artists and lovers of the picturesque The Emperor Tiberius Description of the Blue Grotto The coast-road from Castellamare to Sorrento Amain " " ~Sorrmto, the village of flowers and the flower of villages The Temples of Paestum. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CAPRI. The Marina Grande Frontispiece PAGE GIBRALTAR. View from the Old Mole 14 ALGIERS. Government Square and the Street, La Marine . 28 ALGIERS. Interior of the Governor's Palace 36 MALAGA, General View from Castle 52 BARCELONA. View of Harbor ....... 70 MARSEILLES. Panorama of the Old Port 98 NICE. Promenade des Anglais 132 THE RIVIERA. San Remo . .158 GENOA. The Doria Palace Garden and Doorway . .172 THE TUSCAN COAST. Pisa Cathedral Square and Monuments . 198 VENICE. The Piazza of St. Mark ....... 226 ALEXANDRIA. General View of the City 240 ALEXANDRIA. Scene on Canal 260 MALTA. General View 274 SICILY. View of Taormina and Mt. Etna 298 NAPLES. Panorama from Virgil's Tomb 334 The Mediterranean THE PILLARS OF HERCULES Portals of the ancient world Bay of Tangier at sunrise Tarifa The Rock of Gibraltar Wonders of its fortifications Afternoon promenade in the Alameda Gardens Ascending the Rock View from the highest point The Great Siege Ceuta, the principal Spanish stronghold on the Moorish coast The rock of many names. " " Pillars of Hercules ! The portals of the Ancient World! To how many a traveller just THEbeginning to tire of his week on the Atlantic, or but slowly recovering, it may be, in his tranquil voyage along the coasts of Portugal and Southern Spain, from the effects of thirty unquiet hours in the Bay of Biscay, has the nearing view of this mighty landmark of history brought a message of new life! That dis- tant point ahead, at which the narrowing waters of 'the Strait that bears him disappear entirely within the clasp of the embracing shores, is for many such a traveller the beginning of romance. He gazes upon it from the west- ward with some dim reflection of that mysterious awe with which antiquity looked upon it from the East. The I 2 THE MEDITERRANEAN progress of the ages has, in fact, transposed the center of human interest and the human point of view. Now, as in the Homeric era, the Pillars of Hercules form the gateway of a world of wonder; but for us of to-day it is within and not without those portals that that world of wonder lies. To the eye of modern poetry the At- lantic and Mediterranean have changed places. In the waste of waters stretching westward from the rock of Calpe and its sister headland, the Greek of the age of Homer found his region of immemorial poetic legend and venerable religious myth, and peopled it with the gods and heroes of his traditional creed. Here, on the bosom of the wide-winding river Oceanus, lay the Islands of the Blest that abode of eternal beauty and calm, " " where the life of mortals is most easy," where there is neither snow nor winter nor much rain, but ocean is ever sending up the shrilly breezes of Zephyrus to re- fresh man." But for us moderns who have explored " this mighty river Oceanus," this unknown and mysteri- ous Atlantic to its farthest recesses, the glamor of its for ever and it is eastward mystery has passed away ; " and not westward, through the Pillars of Hercules," that we now set our sails in search of the region of romance. It is to the basin of the Mediterranean fringed with storied cities and venerable ruins, with the crumbling sanctuaries of a creed which has passed away, and the monuments of an art which is imperishable that man turns to-day. The genius of civilization has jour- neyed far to the westward, and has passed through it returns with new reverence and strange experiences ; a deeper awe to that enclave of mid-Europe which con- tains its birthplace, and which is hallowed with the mem- ories of its glorious youth. The grand cliff-portal PHAROS OF TARIFA 3 which we are approaching is the entrance, the thoughtful traveller will always feel, to a region eternally sacred in the of to lands which birth to im- history man ; gave mortal models of literature and unerring canons of philosophic truth; to shrines and temples which guard " " the ashes of those dead but sceptered sovereigns who " rule our spirits from their urns." As our vessel steams onward through the rapidly narrowing Straits, the eye falls upon a picturesque ir- regular cluster of buildings on the Spanish shore, where- from juts forth a rocky tongue of land surmounted by a tower. It is the Pharos of Tarifa, and in another half / hour we are close enough to distinguish the exact out- lines of the ancient and famous city named of Tarif Ibn Malek, the first Berber sheikh who landed in Spain, and itself, it is said though some etymologists look askance at the derivation the name-mother of a word which is ' little less terrible to the modern trader than was this pirate's nest itself to his predecessor of old times. The arms of Tarifa are a castle on waves, with a key at the window, and the device is not unaptly symbolical of her mediaeval history, when her possessors played janitors of the Strait, and merrily levied blackmail -the irregular tariff of those days upon any vessel which desired to pass.