Guide to Malta, Gozo and Comino
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Guide to Malta, Gozo and Comino Fun for all - Plenty to keep divers and non-divers happy MALTA –Wreck haven of the Med things you MUST 10do in the Maltese Archipelago PLUS EXPLORE AND PLUNGE INTO 7,000 YEARS OF HISTORY APRIL 2011 89 GUIDE TO GUIDE TO MALTA MALTA From the editor Knights of St. John - live in truth, have faith, repent of sins, give proof of humility, love justice, be merciful, be The Maltese archipelago has long been a firm favourite with British sincere and whole-hearted and endure persecution. divers, and for good reason – it is just over a two-and-a-half hour Take a boat trip to the Blue Grotto, which is reached flight from the UK, the water is warm and clear, the climate is hot from Wied iz-Zurrieq. This natural picturesque grotto and sunny, and the locals drive on the left. Combine this with 9and its neighbouring system of caverns mirror the accommodation to suit all budgets, myriad variety of restaurants and TOP TEN brilliant phosphorescent colours of the underwater flora. bars, not to mention a rich history and plenty of land-based Experience the traditional Maltese way of attractions for non-divers and ‘dry days’, and it is easy to see why so THINGS YOU MUST DO... life by getting away from the tourist many people flock to this part of the Mediterranean on a regular basis. 10 hotspots and exploring the fishing village of Malta is blessed with some natural underwater topography that amazes divers, such as Marsaxlokk. This is also the perfect opportunity to the Arch at Cirkewwa and the Caves at Ghar Lapsi. However, it is the wreck diving Explore the World Heritage City of Valetta. The Dwerja which is a favourite with photographers. Then sample some of the islands’ typical food. which has put the Maltese Islands on the map. Malta boasts dozens of shipwrecks, unmissable highlight of the capital is the majestic St there is the Baroque Cathedral, a masterpiece designed both artificial reefs and ‘genuine’ historic wartime disasters or maritime mishaps, in 1John’s Co-Cathedral, which houses Caravaggio’s by Lorenzo Gafa, the Maltese architect who was depths ranging from just a few metres to 100m plus, a haven for technical divers. Beheading of St John. responsible for the magnificent Cathedral of Mdina. Wrecks such as the Um El Faroud, Rozi, Imperial Eagle, P29, HMS Maori and HMS Dive the Um El Faroud, an artificial reef which has isit a church – with some 365 churches throughout the Stubborn grace the pages of many a logbook. been broken in two by winter storms and is now islands, you are spoilt for choice. Highly recommended Nearby Gozo doesn’t boast quite so many shipwrecks, though it does have a few, 2one of the most-popular wreck dives on Malta. An 5is the Mosta church, famous for its large dome (the including the Cominoland and the Karwela, but it is the natural underwater abundance of marine life can be seen around the wreck. third largest in Europe). attractions which bring divers to this little island. The Blue Hole and the Inland Sea This dive is suitable for all levels of diver. Step back in history and venture into the are two of the most-famous sites, but there are plenty of lesser-known caves, Visit Sweethaven Village, also known as Popeye Village, streets of the ‘Silent City’ of Mdina, Malta’s swim-throughs and caverns which will enrapture even the most-jaded veteran diver. and explore the film set of Robin Williams’ live-action 6medieval capital city, which can trace its origin Tiny Comino can’t compete with its near-neighbours for shipwrecks, though it has got 3movie from 1980 based on the antics of popular and history back more than 4,000 years. the newly scuttled P31 Patrol Boat (sister ship to the P29), but it has some superb cartoon character Popeye. Snorkel, swim or paddle in Comino’s Blue Lagoon, shallow lagoons ideal for beginners, and some interesting Explore the island of Gozo, which is home to the which with its crystal-clear blue waters provides one of caverns and caves for the more-experienced to explore. 5,500-year-old Ggantija Temples, which are the 7the most-spectacular sights in the Maltese archipelago. Snorkelling is a This multitude of dive sites are well-matched by a vast 4world’s oldest free-standing structures, pre-dating Buy a souvenir featuring the Eight-Pointed popular pastime in array of land-based attractions, from quaint villages, the Pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge. Gozo also Maltese Cross, which still symbolises both the the Maltese islands historical cities and ancient monuments to watersports, boasts the Azure Window, a spectacular landmark at 8Beatitudes and the Eight Obligations of the rock climbing, cycling and other outdoor activities, making Mark Evans, the Maltese archipelago the ideal venue for a Editor, Sport Diver The impressive dome of the Mosta family holiday, a romantic getaway for couples, or an church - the third largest in Europe action-packed group trip. The ‘Silent City’ of Mdina Photographs courtesy of the Malta Tourist Authority and Stuart Philpott 90 APRIL 2011 APRIL 2011 91 GUIDE TO GUIDE TO MALTA MALTA The P29 lies near the Rozi Deck gun on the Polynesien DIVING The statue of IN MALTA Christ Malta is undoubtedly the shipwreck capital of the Mediterranean, boasting a whole host of sunken metal, including some huge artificial reefs alta was quick to realise the from the shore, but the Imperial Eagle can damselfish can be encountered. However, the value of artificial reefs, both only be reached by boat. The Imperial Eagle jewel in the crown of the artificial reef as an attraction for divers was one of the ferryboats connecting Malta programme has to be the 115-metre, and also as a habitat for and Gozo before it became an artificial reef, it 10,000-tonne oil tanker Um el Faroud. The marine life, and one of the now lies on a sandy bottom at a depth of 42m vessel has a tragic history - a terrible explosion Mfirst wrecks sunk was the tugboat Rozi, which some 300 metres northeast of Qawra Point. on board killed nine Maltese dockyard sits some 135 metres off Marfa Point, more Close by is a statue of Jesus Christ. This workers, and for three years the stricken ship commonly known to divers as Cirkewwa, at 13-tonne statue was reallocated here in May lay in the harbour of Valletta. In 1998 it was the north of the island. Resting perfectly 2000. It was originally sunk near St Paul's granted a new lease of life as an artificial reef, upright in 36m, fully intact apart from engines Islands and blessed by Pope John Paul II in and now lies on the sandy seabed southwest of and prop, this little 40-metre tug is one of the 1990 to protect the fishermen of Malta. Wied iz-Zurrieq. The port side is usually most-photographed wrecks on Malta – because The X-127 Water Lighter, aka the Carolita teeming with large schools of sea bream, of its compact size, it is possible to get the Barge, is at Manoel Island in Marsamxett parrotfish and silversides, a massive shoal of entire wreck into shot. It is surrounded by sea Harbour. To reach the wreck, divers swim in a barracuda patrol the waters above the wreck, bream, rainbow wrasse and cardinalfish, and south-westerly direction at any depth between and occasionally it is visited by amberjack and its decks are covered in scorpionfish. 10-15m. The seabed around the wreck is tuna. The top of the bridge comes to within Newly scuttled nearby is the Patrol Boat P29, muddy and scattered with objects such as 18m, and the main deck is at 25m, making it which is starting to gain in popularity as it hospital beds, wheelchairs and other objects the perfect depth for divers. Penetration attracts more marine life. Sitting shallower thrown into the sea during and after the war. throughout the superstructure is possible, but than the Rozi, the P29 is easy to explore and The torpedo damage at the stern of the vessel only for appropriately trained, experienced makes a great first wreck dive. is quite extensive. Throughout the dive, divers. Many of the wrecks in Malta are accessible octopus, small grouper and thousands of 92 APRIL 2011 APRIL 2011 93 GUIDE TO GUIDE TO MALTA MALTA ot all the shipwrecks were sunk engines and wings are intact. The foresection On the southern coast you have Ghar Lapsi, specifically for divers. In the of the fuselage smashed off on landing, and which offers easy access into a shallow system backwaters of St Elmo’s Bay, at now lies several metres in front of the main of underwater caves, which are well lit by a depth of just 18m, you can part of the wreckage. An unusual wreck dive beams of sunlight from the numerous DIVING IN find the remains of HMS Maori. for experienced divers. entry/exit points. Beyond the caves are a series NThis destroyer was launched in 1937, and saw So, Malta is a wreck diver’s paradise, but let’s of parallel reefs and depressions that are home considerable action in the Mediterranean, the not forget its natural attractions. At Cirkewwa to a variety of marine life. Norwegian campaign, with Atlantic convoys in the north of the island, for example, there is At the tip of the Delimara Peninsula past and in the North Sea. On 12 February 1942, it an impressive drop-off from 8m to 30 metres, Marsaxlokk is Delimara Point, a small square COMINO was moored at the entrance to Dockyard Creek and the area also boasts a picturesque arch and rock which indicates the dive site.