In Moroccan Pilgrims' Own Words
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13 In Moroccan Pilgrims’ Own Words: The Hajj Journeys (1321 AH [1903-4]) of Muhammad bin ʿAbd al-Kabīr Al-Kattānī and Muhammad bin Jaʿfar Al-Kattānī in an Age Rabi II, 1442 - December, 2020 of Steam, Imperialism and Globalization Ammeke Kateman In Moroccan Pilgrims’ Own Words: The Hajj Journeys (1321 AH [1903-4]) of Muhammad bin ʿAbd al-Kabīr Al-Kattānī and Muhammad bin Jaʿfar Al-Kattānī in an Age of Steam, Imperialism and Globalization Ammeke Kateman No. 13 Rabi II, 1442 - December, 2020 © King Faisal Center for research and Islamic Studies, 2020 King Fahd National Library Cataloging-In-Publication Data Kateman, Ammeke In Moroccan Pilgrims’ Own Words: The Hajj Journeys (1321 AH [1903-4]) of Muhammad bin ‘Abd al-Kabīr Al-Kattānī and Muhammad bin Ja‘far Al-Kattānī in an Age of Steam, Imperialism and Globalization. / Kateman, Ammeke. - Riyadh, 2020 26 p; 16.5x23cm ISBN: 978-603-8268-69-8 1- Pilgrims I- Title 252.2 dc 1442/2723 L.D. no. 1442/1675 ISBN: 978-603-8268-69-8 Acknowledgment This work is part of a research project on Arabic Mecca travelogues in an age of Islamic reformism (1850-1945) within the research programme “Mecca. More magical than Disneyland”: Modern articulations of pilgrimage to Mecca, project number 360-25-150, financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO). 4 Table of Contents Abstract 6 Introduction 7 Studying pilgrims’ own words 10 Islamic places in an imperial space 14 Connecting Muslims 21 Conclusion 28 5 No. 13 Rabi II, 1442 - December, 2020 Abstract This article analyzes a cluster of Moroccan ḥajj accounts – all related to the popular Kattāniyya Sufi order in Fez – to explore the role of the ḥajj and the Ḥijāz in these pilgrims’ own words, at a time when the experiences of imperialism, new technologies and globalization were inevitable for any Moroccan ḥajj traveller. Studying the accounts of the journeys of shaykh Muḥammad bin ʿAbd al-Kabīr al-Kattānī (1873-1909) (written by his follower ʿAbd al-Salām bin Muḥammad al-Muʿṭī al-ʿAmrānī) and his cousin, the ḥadīth-scholar and biographer Muḥammad bin Jaʿfar al-Kattānī (1858-1927), this article shows how the ḥajj and its journey inevitably gained and changed meaning in direct reference to the contexts of both imperialism and steam transportation. In a way, the new context re-emphasized and recentralized the ḥajj and the Ḥijāz. But that is not all these travelogues convey. Drawing on centuries of ḥajj travel writing, the Kattānīs and their followers narrated their journeys as an Islamic journey through an Islamic geography, aimed at meeting other Muslims and gathering Islamic knowledge along the way. Read this way, their travelogues reveal themselves as a reassertion of Islam and a reiteration of its relevance in a context in which they felt Islam was under siege, whether this was done consciously or not. It was one of the ways that the ḥajj did not lose but gained meaning in these travelogues in an age of imperialism, steam and globalization. 6 Introduction Steam technology gave Muslims in Morocco and other parts of the Islamic world the opportunity to travel to the Ḥijāz in order to perform the ḥajj in a way that was safer, faster and cheaper than ever before. From the second half of the nineteenth century, Moroccan pilgrims no longer needed to take the long and dangerous land route across the whole of North Africa by caravan: they could now travel by steamship across the Mediterranean and by steam train through Egypt. The new transportation technology brought increasing numbers of people from across the Islamic world in contact with one other, in Mecca and in other cities as part of a process of globalization, defined as the increasing mobility of people and ideas (alongside goods), assisted by the rising popularity of cheap print technology and the rise of the Arabic press.(1) The new means of transportation also signaled the integration of the ḥajj and its journey into a world that was politically, commercially and culturally dominated by European powers, companies and people. From the nineteenth century onwards, France and other European powers had taken an aggressive interest in Morocco as a prelude to the French and Spanish establishments of protectorates in 1912. European dominance also manifested in the steamships, often of European provenance and owned by European companies, that departed from Tangier and took their passengers to several European Mediterranean port cities such as Marseille and Naples. Further along the way, pilgrims disembarked from these ships at the cosmopolitan ports of Egypt and sometimes of the Levant. On their way back, following international sanitary agreements, they were forced to remain for a set period of quarantine in Al-Tūr, a camp staffed by European personnel, amongst others. At the turn of the twentieth century, the Moroccan pilgrims’ world was thus impacted by new technological, commercial, cultural and political (1) See James L. Gelvin and Nile Green, eds., Global Muslims in the Age of Steam and Print (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2014); Liat Kozma, Cyrus Schayegh, and Avner Wishnitzer, eds., A Global Middle East: Mobility, Materiality and Culture in the Modern Age, 1880-1940, 50 (London: I.B. Tauris, 2015). 7 No. 13 Rabi II, 1442 - December, 2020 structures in which Europeans and European governments and companies were dominant.(2) Amongst these pilgrims were two cousins of the Al-Kattānī family who were connected to the popular Kattāniyya Sufi order in Fez. For the occasion of performing the ḥajj in 1321 AH (1904), shaykh Muḥammad bin ʿAbd al- Kabīr al-Kattānī (1873-1909), the charismatic and mysterious leader of the order, boarded a German steamer in Tangier to travel to Egypt and onwards to the Ḥijāz. The Moroccan sultan ʿAbd al-ʿAzīz (r. 1894-1908) paid for his trip, on which Muḥammad bin ʿAbd al-Kabīr al-Kattānī was accompanied by an entourage of followers. In that same year, his cousin, the ḥadīth-scholar and biographer Muḥammad bin Jaʿfar al-Kattānī (1858-1927), took his family on a journey on British steamers to visit the holy places of Mecca and Medina, calling in at several cities in Egypt and Syria along the way and on the return journey. The two Al-Kattānī cousins and their respective followers did not travel together, although they met occasionally during their stay in the Ḥijāz.(3) Muḥammad bin Jaʿfar al-Kattānī documented his journey with his family in a travelogue titled Al-Riḥla al-Sāmiyya ilā al-Iskandariyya wa Miṣr wa-l- Ḥijāz wa-l-Bilād al-Shāmiyya. His son, Muḥammad al-Zamzamī al-Kattānī, also wrote an account of this journey to Mecca, of which large parts are quoted in footnotes to the edition of his father’s travel text.(4) Furthermore, one of Muḥammad bin ʿAbd al-Kabīr al-Kattānī’s followers, a religious scholar from Marrakech called ʿAbd al-Salām bin Muḥammad al-Muʿṭī al-ʿAmrānī (1861- (2) For an overview of the ḥajj in colonial times, see: Sylvia Chiffoleau, Le Voyage à La Mecque (Paris: Belin, 2015). (3) Muḥammad bin Jaʿfar Al-Kattānī, Al-Riḥla al-Sāmiyya ilā al-Iskandariyya wa Miṣr wa-l-Ḥijāz wa-l-Bilād al-Shāmiyya, ed. Muḥammad Ḥamza bin ʿAlī al-Kattānī and Muḥammad bin ʿAzzūz (Al-Dār al-Bayḍāʾ/Bayrūt: Markaz al-Turāth al-Thaqāfī al-Maghribī/Dār ibn Ḥazm, 2005), 153; ʿAbd al-Salām bin Muḥammad al-Muʿṭī Al-ʿAmrānī, Al-Luʾluʾa al-Fāshiyya fī al-Riḥla al-Ḥijāziyya. Wa hiya Waqāʾiʿ Riḥlat Ḥajj al-Imām Abī al-Fayḍ Muḥammad bin ʿAbd al-Kabīr al-Kattānī ʿĀm 1321h [1904], ed. Nūr al-Hudā ʿAbd al-Raḥmān Al-Kattānī (Al-Dār al-Bayḍāʾ/ Bayrūt: Markaz al-Turāth al-Thaqāfī,/ Dār ibn Ḥazm, 2010), 223.) (4) I have not been able to study this work, titled ʿAqd al-Zamr wa-l-Zabarjad fī Sīrat al-Ibn wa-l- Wālid wa-l-Jadd and written by Muḥammad al-Zamzamī al-Kattānī, as it does not seem to have been published. 8 1931), documented the journey of his shaykh in a travelogue titled Al-Luʾluʾa al-Fāshiyya fī al-Riḥla al-Ḥijāziyya. These three ḥajj travelogues were not published at the time.(5) The only existing copy of Muḥammad bin Jaʿfar al-Kattānī’s travelogue was found in the private library of the Al-Kattānī family. It is smudged and has the author’s notes in the margins, which might suggest that it was not distributed as a manuscript at that time either.(6) Similarly, the travelogue of Muḥammad bin Jaʿfar al-Kattānī’s son, written on a typewriter, seems to have been kept in the private collection of the Al-Kattānī family.(7) Al-ʿAmrānī’s travelogue manuscript might have had a wider distribution, as four copies were still extant according to its editor in 2010.(8) The main protagonists of these travelogues, the Kattānī cousins, were both very critical of European cultural influence in Morocco, Europe’s colonial meddling with Moroccan affairs, and the Moroccan rulers’ docility in handling this. They are often described as Islamic revivalists because they strove for the restoration of Islam and its texts, laws and rituals. Their vision of the version of Islam that needed to be restored is peculiar in its combination of scripturalism as well as maraboutism, which challenges set notions of a clear-cut division between revivalism and Sufism in the modern age (see below). The Kattānīs envisioned saints and other charismatic figures, among whom was the veiled shaykh Muḥammad bin ʿAbd al- Kabīr al-Kattānī himself, playing a leading role in restoring Islam and its law due to the saints’ and shaykhs’ special functions of mediation and intercession and as sources of baraka (blessing).