<<

Article Article After : Muslim Refashioning Themselves

Kholoud Al-Ajarma Kholoud Al-Ajarma

Faculty of Theology and Religious Studies, University of Groningen, 9712 GK Groningen, The ; [email protected] of Theology and Religious Studies, University of Groningen, 9712 GK Groningen, The Netherlands; [email protected]

Abstract: The Muslim to (Hajj) is one of the five pillars of and a duty which Abstract: The Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca (Hajj) is one of the five pillars of Islam and a duty which must perform—once in a lifetime—if they are physically and financially able to do so. In Muslims must perform—once in a lifetime—if they are physically and financially able to do so. , from where thousands of pilgrims travel to Mecca every , the Hajj often represents In Morocco, from where thousands of pilgrims travel to Mecca every year, the Hajj often represents the culmination of of preparation and planning, both spiritual and logistical. Pilgrims often the culmination of years of preparation and planning, both spiritual and logistical. Pilgrims often describe their as a transformative experience. Upon successfully completing the describe their journey to Mecca as a transformative experience. Upon successfully completing the pilgrimage and returning home, pilgrims must negotiate their new status—and the expectations pilgrimage and returning home, pilgrims must negotiate their new status—and the expectations that come with it—within the mundane and complex of everyday life. There are many am- that come with it—within the mundane and complex reality of everyday life. There are many bivalences and tensions to be dealt with, including managing the community expectations of piety ambivalences and tensions to be dealt with, including managing the community expectations of piety and moral behavior. On a personal level, pilgrims struggle between staying on the right path, - and moral behavior. On a personal level, pilgrims struggle between staying on the right path, faithful ful to their pilgrimage experience, and straying from that path as a result of imperfection to their pilgrimage experience, and straying from that path as a result of human imperfection and the and the inability to sustain the ideals inspired by pilgrimage. By ethnographically studying the - inability to sustain the ideals inspired by pilgrimage. By ethnographically studying the everyday ryday lives of Moroccans after their return from Mecca, this article seeks to answer the questions: lives of Moroccans after their return from Mecca, this article seeks to answer the questions: how do how do pilgrims encounter a variety of competing expectations and demands following their pil- pilgrims encounter a variety of competing expectations and demands following their pilgrimage and grimage and how are their efforts received by members of their community? How do they shape how are their efforts received by members of their community? How do they shape their social and their social and religious behavior as returned pilgrims? How do they deal with the tensions be- religious behavior as returned pilgrims? How do they deal with the tensions between the ideals of tween the ideals of Hajj and the of daily life? In short, this article scrutinizes the religious, Hajj and the realities of daily life? In short, this article scrutinizes the religious, social and personal social and personal ramifications for pilgrims after the completion of Hajj and return to their com- ramifications for pilgrims after the completion of Hajj and return to their community. My research  munity. My research illustrates that pilgrimage contributes to a process of self-formation among  illustrates that pilgrimage contributes to a process of self-formation among pilgrims, with religious Citation: Al-Ajarma, Kholoud. 2021. pilgrims, with religious and non-religious dimensions, which continues long after Hajj is over and and non-religious dimensions, which continues long after Hajj is over and which operates within, AfterCitation: Hajj:Al-Ajarma, Muslim Pilgrims Kholoud. Refash- 2021. which operates within, and interacts with, specific social contexts. Afterioning Hajj: Themselves. Muslim PilgrimsReligions 12: x. and interacts with, specific social contexts. https://doi.org/10.3390/xxxxxRefashioning Themselves. Religions Keywords: Hajj; Islam; Morocco; everyday life; self-formation Keywords: Hajj; Islam; Morocco; everyday life; self-formation 12: 36. https://doi.org/10.3390/ Received:rel12010036 1 December 2020 Accepted: 3 January 2021 Published:Received: 17December January 2021 2020 It was narrated that the said: “An ʿumra is an expiation for the Accepted: 3 January 2021 It was narrated that the prophet Muhammad said: “An umra is an expiation for the Publisher’sPublished: 7 Note: January MDPI 2021 stays neu- sinssins committed committed between it and the next, next, and Hajj Hajj which is accepted will receive no other 1 tral with regard to jurisdictional rewardreward than .” () claimsPublisher’s in published Note: MDPImaps and stays insti- neu- 1. Introduction tutionaltral with affiliations. regard to jurisdictional clai- 1. Introduction ms in published maps and institutio- One day before leaving Mecca in October 2015, , a Moroccan teacher in his nal affiliations. early sixties, prayed: “O “O , God, I I pay pay You You farewe farewellll with with my my tongue, tongue, but but not not with with my my heart.” heart.”

He then left Mecca to return to Morocco, havinghaving completed the rites of thethe Hajj.Hajj. At the Copyright: © 2020 by the authors. airport in , his family waited in anticipation of his safe return. At home, food Submitted for possible open access was prepared for a banquetbanquet forfor familyfamily andand friends.friends. The living room was cleaned and publicationCopyright: ©under 2021 the by terms the author. and Li- scented, and plates of sweets were placed on a centrally positioned, large, round table. censee MDPI, Basel, . scented, and plates of sweets were placed on a centrally positioned, large, round table. conditions of the Creative Commons The preparations at home seemed akin to a purification , making ready the house to This article is an open access article The preparations at home seemed akin to a purification ritual, making ready the house to Attribution (CC BY) license welcome the returning and the many visitors who would come to congratulate distributed under the terms and con- welcome the returning pilgrim and the many visitors who would come to congratulate (http://creativecommons.org/licenses him on his safe return. ditions of the Creative Commons At- him on his safe return. /by/4.0/). In a later conversation with Abu Bakr, he used a telling image to describe the con- tribution (CC BY) license (https:// In a later conversation with Abu Bakr, he used a telling image to describe the condi- dition of those who perform a pilgrimage, saying: “[Pilgrims] now are like newborn creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ tion of those who perform a pilgrimage, saying: “[Pilgrims] now are like newborn babies: 4.0/). babies: cleansed from and full of goodness.” He estimated that Hajj precipitates a

1 HajjHajj al-Mabr al-Mabrur¯ ūrefersr refers to anto acceptedan accepted pilgrimage pilgrimage (cf. Muslim, (cf. Muslim, book 15, book hadith 15, 493). hadith 493).

Religions 2021, 12, x. https://doi.org/10.3390/xxxxx www.mdpi.com/journal/religions Religions 2021, 12, 36. https://doi.org/10.3390/rel12010036 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/religions Religions 2021, 12, 36 2 of 14

major transformation in selfhood and a change on spiritual and moral levels. However, according to Abu Bakr’s wife, once pilgrims return home, the real test begins: “would they transform so fully and live up to the morals developed during Hajj and how would they live upon return?” The Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca (Hajj) is one of the five pillars of Islam and a duty which adult Muslims must perform—once in a lifetime—if they are physically and financially able to do so (Aziz 2001; Bianchi 2004; Peters 1994). During the days of Hajj, pilgrims perform a series of religious and symbolic rites, following the footsteps of the and Muhammad (cf. Wolfe 1997; Peters 1994; Mawdudi 1982). The Hajj is not only an individual religious undertaking of devotion for Muslims but is also a global annual event that embraces political, social, economic, and intellectual aspects (Ryad 2017). For Muslims, the Hajj often represents the culmination of years of preparation and planning, both spiritual and logistical (cf. Gatrad and 2005, p. 133). During Hajj, the behavior of pilgrims should be dominated by piety and , by abstention from all temptations, by tolerance when dealing with others and by the avoidance of disputes (Bianchi 2004). The significance of the Hajj and the impact of its rites assume great importance throughout the lives of pilgrims, which can be seen in numerous studies about the Hajj (cf. Bianchi 2004; Wolfe 1997; Peters 1994; Scupin 1982). As if to mark its personal and social significance, once they have completed the Hajj, pilgrims are given the honorific title al-h. ajj,¯ for males, or al-h. ajja,¯ for females and the legacy of Hajj manifests itself in their everyday lives. In Morocco, from where thousands of pilgrims travel to Mecca every year, and where I conducted research for eighteen months among Moroccan pilgrims, many of my interlocutors described the Hajj as a transformative experience on both personal and social levels. When they returned from Mecca, my interlocutors spoke about their aspirations to transform and live up to their new status at home. Nonetheless, this desired transformation is not automatically acquired simply by virtue of having completed the pilgrimage. To maximize spiritual benefit, pilgrims must strive to lead pious lives amidst the ambivalences, contradictions and inconsistencies of their everyday lives (cf. Al-Ajarma 2020). On the worldly level, there are benefits associated with pilgrimage such as good reputation that might impact a pilgrim’s social interactions or commercial activities. For example, a businessman who has been to Hajj is expected by community members to be trustworthy and truthful which positively impacts his business (example provided by Abu Bakr, fieldnotes). Pilgrims are often invited as witnesses to and to act as judges in cases of dispute as their opinions and ideas are highly respected in the community (Al-Ajarma 2020). Returning pilgrims, share the community expectations of morally elevated comportment in their daily lives after their return, while, at the same time, admitting a realistic sense of human imperfection. Thus, the question that is often expressed by pilgrims and non-pilgrims alike about the transformative qualities of Hajj remains: what happens on return to the mundane rhythms of the daily life of pilgrims? In this article, I explore the putative spiritual and social benefits for pilgrims upon their return from the Hajj and particularly address some of the more complex ambiguities they encounter. I do this by making close reference to the testimonies of Moroccans whom I interviewed during long-term fieldwork conducted between the summer of 2015 and the winter of 2017. I argue that the daily lives of those who have performed the Hajj involve an array of practices to which pilgrims are expected to be dedicated. The very fact that people who have performed the Hajj are addressed with the honorific title al-h. ajj/al-¯ h. ajja¯ points to expectations of how the experience must, by inference, have changed them. The enactment of what is deemed to be a correct performance of religious duties involves specific ideals or normative expectations, which are dictated by a religious authority or, alternatively, by a faith community’s understanding of Islamic tradition. I argue that pilgrims strive to become pious, virtuous, or ‘correct’ Muslims, as they understand that term, in a process which ultimately becomes the continuous crafting of a religious self. However, this process of crafting a religious self takes place within a context where a pilgrim’s morality is Religions 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 14 Religions 2021, 12, 36 3 of 14

in a process which ultimately becomes the continuous crafting of a religious self. How- ever, this process of crafting a religiousboth displayed self takes and place assessed within in a the context public where sphere a pilgrim’s and is not merely a matter of religious morality is both displayed andobservance assessed in andthe public private sphere conduct. and is Pilgrims not merely have a tomatter negotiate of their new status—and the religious observance and privateexpectations conduct. Pilgrims that come have with to being negotiate a h. ajj/¯ theirh. ajja—within¯ new status— the mundane and complex reality and the expectations that comeof with everyday being a life. ḥājj/ Therefore,ḥājja—within there the are mundane many ambivalences and complex and tensions that pilgrims have reality of everyday life. Therefore,to deal there with are many upon theirambivalences return to and Morocco. tensions By that focusing pilgrims on the lives of pilgrims after the have to deal with upon their returnpilgrimage to Morocco. is completed, By focusing this on article the lives aims of to pilgrims contribute after to the anthropological study of the pilgrimage is completed, thispilgrimage article aims as partto contribute of Muslims’ to the everyday anthropological life (cf. Schielke study of2010 ). In this research, everyday life is explored through participant observation, by following a group of Moroccan pilgrims pilgrimage as part of Muslims’ everyday life (cf. Schielke 2010). In this research, everyday mainly through the public and private domains which make up their everyday realms life is explored through participant observation, by following a group of Moroccan pil- of existence. This study scrutinizes the religious, social, and personal ramifications for grims mainly through the public and private domains which make up their everyday pilgrims after the completion of Hajj and how they engage in processes of continuous realms of existence. This study scrutinizes the religious, social, and personal ramifications self-formation that sometimes include moments of success and at other times experiences for pilgrims after the completion of Hajj and how they engage in processes of continuous of doubt brought by the ambiguities, contradictions, ambivalences of everyday life. self-formation that sometimes include moments of success and at other times experiences of doubt brought by the ambiguities,2. The Impactcontradictions, of the Pilgrimage ambivalences on theof everyday ‘Everyday life. Life’ of Muslims There is a range of academic studies that look at Muslim pilgrimage through various 2. The Impact of the Pilgrimage on the ‘Everyday Life’ of Muslims lenses, for instance in relation to (Jamal et al. 2018; Timothy and Olsen 2006), There is a range of academichistorical studies encounters that look at ( RyadMuslim 2017 pilgrimage; Peters 1994 through, 2017 various), and (Hyndman-Rizk lenses, for instance in relation to2012 tourism; Bianchi (Jamal 2004 et). 2al.Considerably 2018; Timothy less and work, Olsen however, 2006), his- has been performed on the socio- torical encounters (Ryad 2017; culturalPeters 1994, dimensions 2017), and of globalization the Hajj in the (Hyndman-Rizk lives of Muslims 2012; (cf. Clingingsmith et al. 2009; Bianchi 2004).2 Considerably lessDonnan work, 1995 however,; Haq and has Jackson been performed 2009; McLoughlin on the socio-cul- 2009). In a study carried out by tural dimensions of the Hajj in Clingingsmith,the lives of Muslims Asim (cf. Khawaja, Clingingsmith and et al. Kremer 2009; Donnan (Clingingsmith et al. 2009) to estimate 1995; Haq and Jackson 2009; McLoughlinthe impact of 2009) performing. In a study the Hajj carried on pilgrims, out by theDavid authors Cling- focus on how performing the Hajj ingsmith, Asim Khawaja, and affectedMichael religiousKremer (Clingingsmith beliefs and social et al. attitudes 2009) to of estimate Muslims the including feelings of unity with impact of performing the Hajj fellowon pilgrims, Muslims, the increasedauthors focus observance on how of performing Islamic practices, the Hajj such as and , and affected religious beliefs and socialincreased attitudes of in Muslims equality including and harmony feelings among of unity ethnic with groups, in addition to favorable fellow Muslims, increased observanceattitudes oftoward Islamic women.practices, InsuchMass as prayer Religious and Ritual fasting, and and Intergroup Tolerance: The Muslim increased belief in equality andPilgrims’ harmony Paradox, amongAlexseev ethnic groups, and Zhemukhov in addition(2017 to )favorable explore how the pilgrimage experience attitudes toward women. In Masscan Religious translate Ritual into social and Interg toleranceroup Tolerance: toward out The groups. Muslim Through Pil- studying the experiences grims’ Paradox, Alexseev and Zhemukhovof Muslims (2017) in the explore Kabardino-Balkaria how the pilgrimage Republic, experience the authors argue that pilgrims were can translate into social tolerancemore toward tolerant out toward groups. outgroups Through andstudying open the to diverseexperiences interpretations of Islam than were of Muslims in the Kabardino-Balkariasimilar non-pilgrims. Republic, the Alexseev authors and argue Zhemukhov that pilgrims further were discuss the pilgrims’ struggles with more tolerant toward outgroupswhether and open or not to their diverse Hajj interpretations was accepted by of God, Islam leading than were them to analyze their actions during similar non-pilgrims. Alexseevthe and pilgrimage. Zhemukhov In personalfurther discuss accounts the of pilgrims’ the Meccan struggles pilgrimage, Moroccans—with whom with whether or not their Hajj wasmy studyaccepted was by conducted—speak God, leading them about to analyze how they their see actions themselves as Muslims, individuals during the pilgrimage. In personalwho accounts seek spiritual of the quest Meccan and pilgrimage, members of Moroccans—with a Muslim community following their pilgrimage whom my study was conducted—speak(cf. Cooper about1999; Donnanhow they 1995 see). themselves The Hajj is significantas Muslims, in shapingin- individual moral conduct dividuals who seek spiritual questand bestowingand members an auraof a Muslim of religious community on following those who their successfully completed it (cf. Joll pilgrimage (cf. Cooper 1999; Donnan2011). Christopher 1995). The Hajj M. Joll, is significant in his study in ofshaping Muslim individual merit making in , refers to the moral conduct and bestowing Hajjan aura as the of biggestreligious merit-making merit on those event who of successfully a lifetime (Joll com- 2011, pp. 171–80). Even the title pleted it (cf. Joll 2011). Christopheral-h. ajj¯ M. or Joll, al-h. inajja¯ his is study highly of significant Muslim merit on both making personal in Thai- and social levels as form of social, land, refers to the Hajj as the biggestreligious merit-making and moral capitalevent of (cf. a lifetimeBourdieu (Joll 1986 2011,; Cooper pp. 171– 1999, p. 93). However, to study 80). Even the title al-ḥājj or al-ḥhowājja is pilgrims highly significant bring their on understanding both personal of and the pilgrimagesocial levels to reframing the ways in which they engage with religious, social, and cultural practices after the Hajj, in my view, one should examine pilgrims’ everyday lives including their behavior, interactions, and other 2 Other studies have examined the pilgrimage of Muslims in thdiscourses—bothe West, especially personal in relation and to social.diaspora communities. Some examples include the work of Seán McLoughlin (2009, 2010, 2013) on the pilgrimage of Pakistani Muslims in Great Britain, the research of Farooq Haq and John Jackson on the Hajj experiences of Pakistani and Pakistani-Australians pilgrims (Haq and 2 Other studies have examined the pilgrimage of Muslims in the West, especially in relation to diaspora communities. Some examples include the Jackson 2009), as well as Carol Delaney’swork of Se stáudyn McLoughlin on the pilgrimage(2009, 2010, of2013 Turkish) on the migrants pilgrimage in of Germany Pakistani Muslims(Delaney in 1990). Great Britain, There theis also research of Farooq Haq and John Jackson several edited volumes on the Hajjon the including Hajj experiences Hajj: Global of Pakistani Interactions and Pakistani-Australians through Pilgrimage pilgrims edited (Haq by and Luitgard Jackson Mols2009), asand well Marjo as Carol Delaney’s study on the pilgrimage Buitelaar (Mols and Buitelaar 2015)of Turkishwhich migrantsincludes in severa Germanyl case (Delaney studies 1990 on). the There Hajj, is also the severalmore recent edited volumesvolume onMuslim the Hajj Pilgrimage including Hajj:in Global Interactions through Pilgrimage the Modern edited by Babakedited Rahimi by Luitgardand Peyman Mols andEshaghi Marjo (Rahimi Buitelaar and (Mols Eshaghi and Buitelaar 2019), 2015and) most which recently, includes severalMuslim case Women’s studies on the Hajj, the more recent volume Muslim Pilgrimage in the Modern World edited by Babak Rahimi and Peyman Eshaghi (Rahimi and Eshaghi 2019), and most recently, Muslim Women’s Pilgrimage to Mecca and Beyond: Reconfiguring Gender, and Mobility edited by Marjo Buitelaar, Manja Stephan-Emmrich and Pilgrimage to Mecca and Beyond: Reconfiguring Gender, Religion and Mobility edited by Marjo Buitelaar, Manja Stephan-Emmrich and Viola Thimm Viola Thimm (Buitelaar et al. 2020).(Buitelaar Personal et al. accounts 2020). Personal on Hajj accounts (from Morocco) on Hajj (from include Morocco) Abdlellah include Hammoudi’s Abdlellah Hammoudi’s A SeasonA in Season Mecca in Mecca (Hammoudi 2006) and (Hammoudi 2006) and Hassan Aourid’sAourid’s RiwRiwāa¯ʾu Makka [The [The Waves Waves of Mecca]of Mecca] (Aourid (Aourid 2019). 2019).

Religions 2021, 12, 36 4 of 14

A point of departure for the study of everyday life—in general—might be Michel de Certeau’s The Practice of Everyday Life (De Certeau 1988), which examines life as it is lived and daily exchanges as a rich source of meaning for scholarly analysis. De Certeau turns focuses on what he sees as the creative poetics of the ‘common man’ in his pat- terns of interactions, offering a microanalysis of the daily enactments and renegotiations which people undertake. The study of everyday life focuses on what people do and say in a specific context and how they experience, express, and shape their ‘lived religion’ (McGuire 2008, p. 12; cf. Schielke and Debevec 2012; Dessing et al. 2013; Ammerman 2007). Understanding religion, Nancy Ammerman argues, requires attention to both the ‘micro’ practices of everyday interaction, and the ‘macro’ social structures among which one lives (Ammerman 2007, p. 234). Meredith McGuire follows a similar argument in her work where she focuses on religion as it is practiced, experienced, and expressed by ‘ordinary people’ (McGuire 2008, p. 12). People’s actual everyday experiences, she argues, reflect their personal understanding and daily negotiation of their religion (McGuire 2008). Assuming that individuals continuously engage in making and remaking religion by undertaking reli- gious activities, the religious lives of people are co-constituted by various, sometimes com- peting, priorities and experiences involving all dimensions of life (cf. Ammerman 2007). This makes everyday life a key tool in the study of religion (Toguslu 2015). For Muslims, Mecca is the most on earth, and it has a powerful presence in their everyday life. Many Muslims consider the pilgrimage to Mecca to be the ulti- mate realization of one’s religious development and a way of achieving moral fulfilment or becoming a good, or better, Muslim. Being and becoming a good pilgrim for many people includes the perfection of virtuous behavior, morality, and demonstration of piety (cf. Mahmood 2005). In general, pilgrimage in the everyday life of Moroccans epitomizes the meaning of Islam as “a grand scheme” (cf. Schielke 2010, p. 14). This means that the pilgrimage to Mecca becomes a guideline for life, a spiritual ‘watch’ and ‘compass’, providing meaning and direction to everyday concerns and experiences (cf. Tweed 2006). Taking into consideration the complexities in people’s everyday lives and their motivations, experiences, practices, and uncertainties in dealing with such complexities, the study of everyday aspects of religion as lived by ordinary people can reveal the “plural, complex, and essentially unsystematic of religion” (Schielke and Debevec 2012, p. 3). Since the religious lives of most Muslims are not necessarily governed by an internally coher- ent of ethics or by a certainty about the place of religion in both public and private spheres, anthropologists working on Muslim societies have highlighted the prevalence of moral ambivalence, the ways in which individuals deal with conflicting “moral registers” (Schielke 2015, p. 53ff), or “multidimensional” selves (Simon 2014). Thus, struggle, ambiva- lence, incoherence and failure must receive attention in the study of everyday religiosity (cf. Schielke 2010; Deeb 2015). In the introduction to the edited volume Straying from the Straight Path: How Senses of Failure Invigorate Lived Religion, David Kloos and Daan Beekers argue that the struggles inherent in everyday life can, in fact, contribute to productive avenues in the processes of ethical formation rather than be seen as setbacks or obstacles to it, given the appropriate, constructive reading of, and learning from, the perceived ‘failure’. Therefore, as Kloos and Beekers argue, a comprehensive approach towards the religious subject should include both questions about religious commitment, success, social mobility and as well as questions about drawbacks, doubt, and sinfulness. What I find in the narratives of my interlocutors in Morocco is that, although they are sometimes uncertain, doubtful, or— indeed—their daily lives show ambivalence, they nonetheless frame their religious lives in terms of an effort to be ‘good Muslims’ as individuals and members of larger Muslim community. The self-image of a pilgrim is constructed within his or her socio-cultural community, where particular religiously defined ideals of the pilgrimage to Mecca—and of those who perform it—are presented and taught (cf. Sadiqi 2018). A pilgrim is often seen by the community as a person who should apply the highest ideals possible in order to achieve the ideal religious selfhood within the context of their everyday life Religions 2021, 12, 36 5 of 14

(Al-Ajarma 2020). Nonetheless, a pilgrim is also an individual who has to deal with the ambivalence of everyday life including one’s path to piety, drawbacks, doubt, and struggles of ‘staying on the right path’ or straying from it, as I argue in this article (cf. Beekers and Kloos 2017).

3. Methods The findings presented in this article are based on an ethnographic study that investi- gates the socio-cultural embeddedness of Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca in contemporary Morocco (Al-Ajarma 2020). The data were collected through extensive multi-site fieldwork that took place between July 2015 and January 2017. Participant observation was conducted to research the presence of Hajj in everyday social relations and micro-practices before the journey and after their return home. In addition to participant observation, in-depth inter- views were held with people who have been on Hajj. The stories produced in interviews were used to analyze pilgrims’ use of different discourses in narrations on the meaning of Hajj, while participant observation allowed the study of how concrete acts and unsolicited references to Hajj point to shifts in pilgrims everyday lives. I examine how pilgrims reflect on the aftermath of their pilgrimage by looking at how a pilgrim is expected to behave and how pilgrims reflect on their daily struggles and deal with them. For the purpose of this article, I use testimonies from ten pilgrims who reflect on their post-Hajj experiences and four non-pilgrims who reflect on their experiences with pilgrims.3

4. The Return of Pilgrims and Expectations of and from Them During my fieldwork in Morocco, my interlocutors often describe their journey to Mecca as a religious and spiritual experience so great that it was sometimes “beyond comprehension” (Amina, pilgrim from Fes). In their narratives, many pilgrims echoed the words of Rashid, a pilgrim from Mohammedia, who told me: Pilgrimage is a great experience; it is an opportunity to cleanse oneself from sins ... When one returns home, he is like a new born baby; one purified from sins . . . It is an opportunity for a new start and a renewed fait . . . In this sense, the Hajj is a that marks transition to a new life cleansed from sins, a life that starts upon return from the pilgrimage (cf. Donnan 1995). In conversa- tions with Moroccans, many people spoke to me about their expectations that those who have been to Mecca come back spiritually rejuvenated, displaying a new enthusiasm for a religious life upon return home. In the words of Zahra, a fifty-three-old woman from Fes: “When pilgrims return from Hajj, they come back similar to a blank sheet of paper ... They should be careful what to write on that sheet ... ” The image of the pilgrim as a tabula rasa suggests that all past misdeeds are obliterated, purged and forgiven, so that the returned pilgrims begin their spiritual journey again, with no sins weighing them down. The ideas of rebirth and purification are central to the spiritual transformation which the returning pilgrim hopes to undergo and their social prestige and legitimacy that comes with it (cf. Eickelman and Piscatori 1990). According to Zakariya, a tailor from Fes, when pilgrims return home, they focus on having the ‘correct’ character traits deemed by tradition to be associated with a good pilgrimage, a topic that recurred frequently in discussions of pilgrimage with Moroccans. In conversations related to the Hajj, my interlocutors often focused on describing what is expected of a pilgrim, both in terms of external behavior and expressions of piety. Interior piety is largely linked to the idea of cultivating, and having cultivated, the sense of a close relationship with God, a feeling highly prized by pilgrims. Upon return from Hajj, many

3 The eleven Moroccan pilgrims whose narratives are used in this article (in the order they are presented): Abu Bakr (61, teacher from Mohammedia), Amina (57, teacher from Fes), Rashid (64, businessman from Mohammedia), Zakariya (56, tailor from Fes), Samiya (62, homemaker from Fes), Osama (68, former government employee from Fes), Yasir (fabric shop owner, from Fes), , (39, engineer from Casablanca), Lubna (37, former factor worker, from Mohammedia), and Hisham (67, former teacher, from Safi). The three non-pilgrims: (45, shop owner, from Ouezzane), Hassan (23, student, from Safi), Nisrin (29, unknown from Casablanca), Najla (59, teacher from Mohammedia). Religions 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 14

in a process which ultimately becomes the continuous crafting of a religious self. How- ever, this process of crafting a religious self takes place within a context where a pilgrim’s morality is both displayed and assessed in the public sphere and is not merely a matter of religious observance and private conduct. Pilgrims have to negotiate their new status— and the expectations that come with being a ḥājj/ḥājja—within the mundane and complex reality of everyday life. Therefore, there are many ambivalences and tensions that pilgrims have to deal with upon their return to Morocco. By focusing on the lives of pilgrims after the pilgrimage is completed, this article aims to contribute to the anthropological study of pilgrimage as part of Muslims’ everyday life (cf. Schielke 2010). In this research, everyday life is explored through participant observation, by following a group of Moroccan pil- grims mainly through the public and private domains which make up their everyday realms of existence. This study scrutinizes the religious, social, and personal ramifications for pilgrims after the completion of Hajj and how they engage in processes of continuous self-formation that sometimes include moments of success and at other times experiences of doubt brought by the ambiguities, contradictions, ambivalences of everyday life.

2. The Impact of the Pilgrimage on the ‘Everyday Life’ of Muslims There is a range of academic studies that look at Muslim pilgrimage through various lenses, for instance in relation to tourism (Jamal et al. 2018; Timothy and Olsen 2006), his- torical encounters (Ryad 2017; Peters 1994, 2017), and globalization (Hyndman-Rizk 2012; Bianchi 2004).2 Considerably less work, however, has been performed on the socio-cul- tural dimensions of the Hajj in the lives of Muslims (cf. Clingingsmith et al. 2009; Donnan 1995; Haq and Jackson 2009; McLoughlin 2009). In a study carried out by David Cling- ingsmith, Asim Khawaja, and Michael Kremer (Clingingsmith et al. 2009) to estimate the impact of performing the Hajj on pilgrims, the authors focus on how performing the Hajj affected religious beliefs and social attitudes of Muslims including feelings of unity with fellow Muslims, increased observance of Islamic practices, such as prayer and fasting, and increased belief in equality and harmony among ethnic groups, in addition to favorable attitudes toward women. In Mass Religious Ritual and Intergroup Tolerance: The Muslim Pil- grims’ Paradox, Alexseev and Zhemukhov (2017) explore how the pilgrimage experience Religions 2021, 12, 36 6 of 14 can translate into social tolerance toward out groups. Through studying the experiences of Muslims in the Kabardino-Balkaria Republic, the authors argue that pilgrims were more tolerant toward outgroups and open to diverse interpretations of Islam than were pilgrims manifested a desire to achieve closer proximity to God,similar an non-pilgrims. inner state achievable Alexseev and Zhemukhov further discuss the pilgrims’ struggles through the devout performance of religious duties. This waswith illustrated whether in or my not interactions their Hajj was accepted by God, leading them to analyze their actions with pilgrims in Morocco, when I asked what, if anything, hadduring changed the pilgrimage. in their lives In since personal accounts of the Meccan pilgrimage, Moroccans—with returning from Hajj. First, those returning to Morocco afterwhom performing my study the Hajjwas toldconducted—speak me about how they see themselves as Muslims, in- that the pilgrimage resulted in transformations that were manifesteddividuals in who behavior seek spiritual related to quest and members of a Muslim community following their religious , most notably in the realm of prayer and otherpilgrimage kinds of (cf. religious Cooper activity. 1999; Donnan 1995). The Hajj is significant in shaping individual According to Samiya, a pilgrim in her sixties from Fes: moral conduct and bestowing an aura of religious merit on those who successfully com- Before going on Hajj, I used to pay less attention to my religiouspleted it duties (cf. Joll... 2011).I could Christopher M. Joll, in his study of Muslim merit making in Thai- not wake up for fajr [at dawn], for example, andland, rarely refers fasted to the outside Hajj ofas the biggest merit-making event of a lifetime (Joll 2011, pp. 171– the month of ... Now, I make sure to pray on80). time, Even wake the title up foral-ḥfajrājj or al-ḥājja is highly significant on both personal and social levels prayers, fast regularly and help others ... A pilgrim should never lie, should not cheat, and should be a good neighbor ... [A pilgrim] should stay on the right 2 Other studies have examined the pilgrimage of Muslims in the West, especially in relation to diaspora communities. Some path [al-s.irat¯. al-mustaq¯ım]... examples include the work of Seán McLoughlin (2009, 2010, 2013) on the pilgrimage of Pakistani Muslims in Great Britain, the My interlocutors often spokeresearch about of striving Farooq towardsHaq and whatJohn Jackson they considered on the Hajj to experience be a s of Pakistani and Pakistani-Australians pilgrims (Haq and pattern of Islamic perfection. AlthoughJackson 2009), they as may well oscillate as Carol Delaney’s between st thisudy ideal on the and pilgrimage the of Turkish migrants in Germany (Delaney 1990). There is also realities of daily life (cf. Beekersseveral and Kloosedited 2017volumes), observable on the Hajj evidence including suggestsHajj: Global that Interactions through Pilgrimage edited by Luitgard Mols and Marjo they tried to be faithful to their pilgrimage,Buitelaar (Mols and and “stay Buitelaar on al- s.2015)ira¯.t al-mustaq which includes¯ım [the severa straightl case studies on the Hajj, the more recent volume Muslim Pilgrimage in 4 path],” to quote the words of Samiya.the ModernFor World example, edited as by asserted Babak Rahimi by Samiya, and Peyman prayers Eshaghi are (Rahimi and Eshaghi 2019), and most recently, Muslim Women’s an important part of a pilgrim’s dailyPilgrimage routine; to Mecca the morningand Beyond: prayer Reconfiguring is a central Gender, focus Religion in the and Mobility edited by Marjo Buitelaar, Manja Stephan-Emmrich and schedule of waking and preparingViola for Thimm work. (Buitelaar Pilgrims et take al. 2020). on additional Personal accounts daily prayers on Hajj (from Morocco) include Abdlellah Hammoudi’s A Season in Mecca and religious obligations, including(Hammoudi voluntary 2006) fasting and andHassan reciting Aourid’s the Riw Qurāʾuan. Makka In general, [The Waves of Mecca] (Aourid 2019). pilgrims assert a conscious belief that they have become more mindful of religion in their daily life. For my interlocutors, becoming a pilgrim was largely concerned with the development of a new moral self, one that differentiates more closely than before between what is good and bad, right and wrong, sacred and profane. This new zeal can be heard in daily speech, with pilgrims intensifying their use of religious interjections, such as in-sha¯ -¯ (God willing) and ma-sh¯ a¯ -Allah¯ (God has willed it), which they widely use in their daily conversations (cf. Migdadi et al. 2010).5 Such interjections serve to indicate a prevailing disposition to think, speak and act within a religious framework. Pilgrims also exhibit a determination to perform other acts, including extending hospitality and giving alms to the poor. Other aspects of external behavior, operating on a lower level, but nonetheless having significance for pilgrims, include smiling, being kind to others, solving disputes, and adopting a positive demeanor in public. Such conduct is not exclusively the province of the devout, but pilgrims seemed to see it as a daily manifestation of spiritual grace acquired, or intensified, during Hajj. Pilgrims try to protect and preserve their new spiritual state of purity while, at the same time, navigating their daily lives and interactions with others. Society may expect to perceive the outward signs of inward change. However, the ideal of ‘staying on the straight path’, nonetheless, is met with various challenges and realities of everyday life that require decision making: “should one take advantage of the new status and ask others to address him or her with the honorific title of al-h. ajj¯ or al-h. ajj?”¯ (Samiya); “Should a pilgrim conduct business which might entail religious compromise, such as the inability to perform prayers on time?” (Abu Bakr); and “Should a pilgrim lie, pretend, or cheat to benefit his business?” (Rashid). Pilgrims voiced these challenges and others as part of their everyday experiences after Hajj. In my conversations with the three pilgrims—and other Moroccans—I tried to unpack how they dealt with these challenges.

4 Al-s.ira¯.t al-mustaq¯ım or the straight path is mentioned in the opening chapter of the Qur an in the form of a prayer from to God: “Guide us to the straight path: the path of those You have blessed, those who incur no anger and who have not gone astray” (Qur an 1, 6–7). Michael Cook notes that s.ira¯.t in is only ever used in a religious context. Also it has no plural form, indicating that there can be only one s.irat¯. which is living through the way to God (Cook 2000, p. 25). 5 Both in-sha¯ -Allah¯ and ma¯-sha¯ -Allah¯ refer to that what God wishes can come true (Migdadi et al. 2010). Religions 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 14

in a process which ultimately becomes the continuous crafting of a religious self. How- ever, this process of crafting a religious self takes place within a context where a pilgrim’s morality is both displayed and assessed in the public sphere and is not merely a matter of religious observance and private conduct. Pilgrims have to negotiate their new status— and the expectations that come with being a ḥājj/ḥājja—within the mundane and complex reality of everyday life. Therefore, there are many ambivalences and tensions that pilgrims have to deal with upon their return to Morocco. By focusing on the lives of pilgrims after the pilgrimage is completed, this article aims to contribute to the anthropological study of pilgrimage as part of Muslims’ everyday life (cf. Schielke 2010). In this research, everyday life is explored through participant observation, by following a group of Moroccan pil- grims mainly through the public and private domains which make up their everyday realms of existence. This study scrutinizes the religious, social, and personal ramifications Religions 2021, 12, 36 for pilgrims after the completion of Hajj and how they engage7 of 14 in processes of continuous self-formation that sometimes include moments of success and at other times experiences of doubt brought by the ambiguities, contradictions, ambivalences of everyday life. The answer for the first of the three questions—that of honorifics—is somewhat debatable among my interlocutors.2. The WhileImpact some of the of Pilgrimage my interlocutors on the considered ‘Everyday it Life’ “normal” of Muslims to use the title of al-h. ajj¯ or al-h. ajja¯ asThere a sign is a of range respect of academic and honor studies when addressingthat look at a Muslim person pilgrimage through various performed Hajj, other peoplelenses, questioned for instance the “normality” in relation of to such tourism naming. (Jamal Nisrin, et al. a 2018; young Timothy and Olsen 2006), his- Moroccan woman from Casablanca,torical encounters for example, (Ryad told 2017; me thatPeters respect 1994, and2017), honor and globalization should (Hyndman-Rizk 2012; be given to a person for theirBianchi moral behavior2004).2 Considerably and good deeds less work, regardless however, of their has having been performed on the socio-cul- performed the Hajj. She toldtural methe dimensions story ofa of friend the Hajj of herin the mother, lives of who Muslims upon returning(cf. Clingingsmith et al. 2009; Donnan from Hajj, demanded to be1995; called Haqal-h. ajja.and¯ JacksonNisrin previously2009; McLoughlin addressed 2009) the. In women a study as carried out by David Cling- khalt¯ ¯ı, a term that means maternalingsmith, aunt Asim and Khawaja, is applied—as and Michael a mark Kremer of respect—to (Clingingsmith older et al. 2009) to estimate the women. Nisrin questioned theimpact demand of performing of the older the woman Hajj andon pilgrims, insistedthat the sheauthors was beingfocus on how performing the Hajj respectful when referring to theaffected woman religious as khalt¯ beliefs¯ı. According and social to Nisrin, attitudes the womanof Muslims wanted including feelings of unity with deferential recognition for herfellow status Muslims, and was increased seeking social observance recognition of Islami for religiousc practices, merit, such as prayer and fasting, and pursuing prestige rather thanincreased spiritualrecognition. belief in equality More thanand once,harmony Nisrin among said, theethnic woman groups, in addition to favorable called attention to her pilgrimage,attitudes by bringingtoward women. the topic In up Mass when Religious she visited Ritual relatives; and Interg forroup Tolerance: The Muslim Pil- example, when she made referencegrims’ Paradox, to the cold Alexseev weather, and she Zhemukhov insisted on comparing(2017) explore it with how the pilgrimage experience the dry heat of Mecca duringcan her translate pilgrimage. into When social I askedtolerance Nisrin toward if she out called groups. the woman Through studying the experiences by the title al-h. ajja¯ , she answered:of Muslims “Allah¯ yismain theh. li Kabardino-Balkaria[May God forgive me], Republ but whenic, the I seeauthors her, argue that pilgrims were I call her khalt¯ ¯ı on purpose ...moreI can tolerant see it on toward her face outgroups that she does and not open like to it!” diverse The fact interpretations that of Islam than were Nisrin began her answer withsimilarAllah¯ yismanon-pilgrims.h. li, however, Alexseev was an and indication Zhemukhov that she further believed discuss the pilgrims’ struggles her behavior towards her mother’swith whether friend might or not not their be appropriate,Hajj was accepted considering by God, the leading latter’s them to analyze their actions age and social status as a femaleduring pilgrim. the pilgrimage. To some extent,In personal being accounts recognized of the as Meccan a pilgrim pilgrimage, Moroccans—with still carries high social significancewhom amongmy study Moroccans, was conducted—speak although the greater about ho frequencyw they see of themselves as Muslims, in- completion of the Hajj has introduceddividuals awho modern seek ambivalencespiritual quest to theand title,members albeit of a relativelya Muslim community following their muted one. pilgrimage (cf. Cooper 1999; Donnan 1995). The Hajj is significant in shaping individual When Moroccans discussmoral the issueconduct of ascribing and bestowing high status an aura to pilgrims, of religious many merit people on those who successfully com- draw a clear distinction between religion, culture and tradition. Abu Bakr, for example, pleted it (cf. Joll 2011). Christopher M. Joll, in his study of Muslim merit making in Thai- questioned the established practice of automatically giving titles to pilgrims in Morocco. land, refers to the Hajj as the biggest merit-making event of a lifetime (Joll 2011, pp. 171– For him, the practice of naming is more of a cultural than religious practice. When asked 80). Even the title al-ḥājj or al-ḥājja is highly significant on both personal and social levels about the title al-h. ajj¯ by which he is known, he commented: When the Prophet performed the Hajj in Mecca, no one called him al-h. ajj¯ Muham- 2 Othermad. studies His companionshave examined also the performed pilgrimage the of Hajj.Muslims But noin th onee West, says al-especiallyh. ajj¯ Ali, inal- relationh. ajj¯ to diaspora communities. Some examplesUmar include or al-h. ajj¯ theUthman work of ...SeánThose McLoug werehlin the (2009, leaders 2010, of2013) the on Muslim the pilgrimage community; of Pakistani Muslims in Great Britain, the researchyet none of Farooq of them Haq was and called John al-hJackson. ajj¯ . on the Hajj experiences of Pakistani and Pakistani-Australians pilgrims (Haq and Jackson 2009), as well as Carol Delaney’s study on the pilgrimage of Turkish migrants in Germany (Delaney 1990). There is also The a person should perform pilgrimage, according to Abu Bakr, is simply that several edited volumes on the Hajj including Hajj: Global Interactions through Pilgrimage edited by Luitgard Mols and Marjo God commands pilgrimage, and, therefore, it is not obligatory to be given the title al-hajj¯ Buitelaar (Mols and Buitelaar 2015) which includes several case studies on the Hajj, the more .recent volume Muslim Pilgrimage in upon their return from Mecca. Zakariya expressed a similar view: the Modern World edited by Babak Rahimi and Peyman Eshaghi (Rahimi and Eshaghi 2019), and most recently, Muslim Women’s PilgrimageWhen to someone Mecca and prays, Beyond: he Reco performsnfiguring an Gender, obligation. Religion Yet,and Mobility he would edited not by be Marjo called Buitelaar, Manja Stephan-Emmrich and Violaal-mu Thimms.all¯ı (Buitelaar[the one et who al. 2020). prays]. Personal When accounts he fasts, on he Ha performsjj (from Morocco) an obligation, include Abdlellah yet Hammoudi’s A Season in Mecca (Hammoudihe would 2006) not beand given Hassan the Aourid’s title of Riwal-s.aā¯ʾuim Makka[the one[The whoWaves fasts]. of Mecca] Pilgrimage (Aourid is 2019). the same; it is an obligation and those who perform it are lucky and hopefully God accepts their pilgrimage; but there is no need for them to be called al-h. ajj¯ ... I did not ask people to call me al-h. ajj¯ . However, everyone started calling me al-h. ajj¯ upon return from Mecca ... Now, my work colleagues, my family members, my cousins, and neighbors all call me al-h. ajj¯ . Both Abu Bakr and Zakariya believed that it was a decision made by the community to confer upon them the honorific title of one who has completed the Hajj and it was not something the pilgrims themselves should ask for (cf. Buitelaar 2018). Nonetheless, both men are known in their community as al-h. ajj.¯ During my fieldwork, I met with the two men numerous times on different occasions, always hearing their relatives, family members, and others calling them al-h. ajj.¯ Sometimes the real name of a person even overlapped under the title al-h. ajj,¯ such as al-h. ajj¯ Osama, a former government employee from Mohammedia who was always addressed with the title al-h. ajj¯ among his collogues followed by his family name. Religions 2021, 12, 36 8 of 14

The respect and honor showed towards pilgrims comes with expectations of piety and respectful behavior with others as to justify the honor which others should show them. However, the honorific title rings hollow when the transformation expected seems unfulfilled and members of the community are reluctant to ascribe the title to flawed individuals. One way my interlocutors reflected on the difference between expectations and reality was shown in humorous accounts of pilgrims returning from Hajj. For example, Sarah, a woman from Ouezzane, told me this joke while talking about returning pilgrims: There was a Moroccan man who returned from Hajj. He went to a nearby shop in his neighborhood where he was a regular customer. He asked the owner to show him the record of his debt in the shopkeeper’s loan notebook. The man was excited thinking that al-h. ajj¯ was about to pay the debt. He opened the notebook and pointed to one page. The pilgrim said: “Where is my name?” The shop owner answered: “Here it is, al-h. ajj!.”¯ The pilgrim nodded his head and said: “Well, now you can write ‘al-h. ajj’¯ in front of my name!” This humorous account illustrates the expectation of the shop owner of a returning pilgrim paying his debt and then being met with the irony that the pilgrim was only concerned about the title. The joke hints at the challenge of change following a pilgrimage and the possibility of there being unchangeable characteristics. Hassan, a young man from Safi, told me another humorous account of a similar nature: There was an old lady who told a of lies. Her children said: “Let’s send her to Hajj so that she will be decent and stop lying.” So she went to Hajj and returned. Her children waited for her at the airport and upon welcoming her back they asked her: “Al-h. ajja,¯ how was your travel?” She said: “Oh, what can I say? The airplane broke down and was stationed in the middle of the sky; we had to get out and push it to move!” The use of humor in both accounts can be interpreted as a means of challenging the boundaries of social expectations (cf. Tamer 2009). The jokes indicate how pilgrims were looked upon or treated upon return. This technique interrogates the ‘perfect’ image some people attribute to pilgrims. Although people might have religious, social and personal expectations from pilgrims and effectively demanding higher standards of a pilgrim than of others, pilgrims are first and foremost humans who might or might not change following their pilgrimage experience. Pilgrims might aspire to stay on the right path, yet they have to negotiate their journey—on that path—through the ambivalence of their everyday life.

5. Ambivalences of Everyday Life, Staying on the Right Path and Straying from It When I asked my interlocutors about the changes they witnessed in their actions after they returned from Mecca, they sometimes struggled to scrutinize their own behavior. Those around pilgrims, however, including family members and friends, in my experience, were more vocal in actively assessing the behaviors and religious conduct of the returned pilgrim. For example, Najla, the wife of Abu Bakr, clearly remembered her husband’s post-hajj behavior: Before al-h. ajj¯ left for Mecca, at the airport, he cried and asked for forgiveness for every moment of anger and every unjust action during our life together ... I felt like he was paying the last farewell ... We all cried and to myself I thought that he would return as al-h. ajj,¯ a truly transformed person! ... I wondered: ‘can he live a life without sins? . . . Will he live up to his new title, al-h. ajj?’¯ Remembering the return of her husband to Morocco, especially the first few weeks, Najla described him as the kindest she had ever known him. “How long do you think that lasted?” Najla asked me. She then answered her own question: “Three months!” Najla recalled the words of her husband upon his return from Mecca: He told me that being on Hajj reminded him of the Prophet, especially of the deeds of the Prophet who was a gentle man, a kind and a loving husband, and a good father and neighbor ... [My husband] wanted to be a loving husband Religions 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 14 Religions 2021, 12, 36 9 of 14

in a process which ultimately becomes the continuous crafting of a religious self. How- just like the Prophet ... Andever, he was! this He process was the of crafting perfect husband;a religious never self takes angry, place within a context where a pilgrim’s always smiling and speakingmorality nicely and is gentlyboth displayed... For three and months!assessed Afterin the three public sphere and is not merely a matter of months, he returned to his old self ... He is not a bad person, but he easily religious observance and private conduct. Pilgrims have to negotiate their new status— gets angry, screams, and gets irritated often ... I have to say, though, those and the expectations that come with being a ḥājj/ḥājja—within the mundane and complex three months [immediately following his return] were the best months of our reality of everyday life. Therefore, there are many ambivalences and tensions that pilgrims twenty-five years of . . . have to deal with upon their return to Morocco. By focusing on the lives of pilgrims after In the three months that followedthe pilgrimage her husband’s is completed, return this from article Mecca, aims Najla to contribute recog- to the anthropological study of nized Abu Bakr as “truly al-h. ajj¯ ;”pilgrimage a pilgrim whoas part was of spirituallyMuslims’ everyday transformed. life (cf. The Schielke hus- 2010). In this research, everyday band worked to demonstrate pietylife and is reverenceexplored through and by evincing participant qualities observation, such as by open- following a group of Moroccan pil- mindedness and readiness to be agrims good mainly husband. through This change the public is a stateand largelyprivate broughtdomains which make up their everyday about through the pilgrim’s own efforts.realms However, of existence. the This transformation, study scrutinizes in this th case,e religious, was not social, and personal ramifications held to be permanent, revealing thatfor the pilgrims experience after ofthe pilgrimage completion alone of Hajj is often and consideredhow they engage in processes of continuous insufficient, of itself, to bring aboutself-formation a total and lastingthat sometimes change. Forinclude Najla, moment some pilgrimss of success and at other times experiences appear not to have internalized theof doubt moral brought status of by pilgrimage the ambiguities, deeply contradictions, enough, with the ambivalences of everyday life. result that they find it difficult to sustain their desired transformation following their return to their daily lives after the pilgrimage2. The (cf.Impact Spiro of 1997the Pilgrimage, p. 3). Therefore, on the ‘Everyday the new moral Life’ of Muslims status, acquired after pilgrimage, becomes a site of struggle for the returning pilgrim, a fact observed within the family, and evaluatedThere is bya range those of closest academic to the studies pilgrim. that Rashid, look at the Muslim pilgrimage through various pilgrim from Mohammedia, expressedlenses, this for dilemma instance clearlyin relation when to hetourism told me: (Jamal et al. 2018; Timothy and Olsen 2006), his- torical encounters (Ryad 2017; Peters 1994, 2017), and globalization (Hyndman-Rizk 2012; When people go on Hajj and return, their behavior might change between them- Bianchi 2004).2 Considerably less work, however, has been performed on the socio-cul- selves and God with more prayer, fasting and almsgiving. However, what is tural dimensions of the Hajj in the lives of Muslims (cf. Clingingsmith et al. 2009; Donnan between themselves and people might not change a lot ... Pilgrims are just 1995; Haq and Jackson 2009; McLoughlin 2009). In a study carried out by David Cling- humans; they might return to treat people badly, cheat, or gossip ... [That’s part ingsmith, Asim Khawaja, and Michael Kremer (Clingingsmith et al. 2009) to estimate the of] a human’s daily life! impact of performing the Hajj on pilgrims, the authors focus on how performing the Hajj Reflecting on the daily strugglesaffected pilgrims religious face, beliefs my interlocutors and social oftenattitudes compared of Muslims the including feelings of unity with daily life in Morocco with the pilgrimagefellow experienceMuslims, increased itself. Abu observance Bakr, for example, of Islami reflectedc practices, such as prayer and fasting, and on his experience by saying: increased belief in equality and harmony among ethnic groups, in addition to favorable Over there [in Mecca] you’reattitudes occupied toward with worship women. and In withMass very Religious little Ritual distrac- and Intergroup Tolerance: The Muslim Pil- tion you would think that yougrims’ would Paradox, lead a piousAlexseev life onceand Zhemukhov you return home (2017)... explore how the pilgrimage experience And then you come here wherecan you translate have tointo go social to work tolerance again, dealtoward with out people groups. Through studying the experiences on a daily basis, sometimes youof have Muslims no time in... theAt Kabardino-Balkaria first when you come Republ back youic, the authors argue that pilgrims were are still in that [pious] mood;more but with tolerant daily toward busy life, outgroups you return and to open the routineto diverse interpretations of Islam than were ... similar non-pilgrims. Alexseev and Zhemukhov further discuss the pilgrims’ struggles What Abu Bakr described waswith coherent whether with or his not wife’s their observation Hajj was accepted of the change by God, in hisleading them to analyze their actions character following his pilgrimage.during His return the pilgrimage. to the rhythms In personal of everyday accounts life was of the shaped Meccan pilgrimage, Moroccans—with less by the effects (or absence of them)whom of my a spiritual study was transformation conducted—speak brought about about ho byw thethey see themselves as Muslims, in- pilgrimage than by the routines ofdividuals work, family, who and seek social spiritual life. Abuquest Bakr’s and members experience of wasa Muslim community following their somewhat similar to that of Rashidpilgrimage who told me:(cf. Cooper 1999; Donnan 1995). The Hajj is significant in shaping individual In Mecca I felt so peaceful; I wasmoral only conduct occupied and withbestowing worship an fromaura morningof religious to merit on those who successfully com- night; I would pray, read Qur’an,pleted visit it (cf. religious Joll 2011). sites Christopher... Then when M. IJoll, came in back,his study of Muslim merit making in Thai- I wanted to stay on the straightland, path refers... Ito had theto Hajj go as to th worke biggest again, merit-making to deal with event of a lifetime (Joll 2011, pp. 171– people at work, the day is busy80). between Even the work, title al- family,ḥājj or and al-ḥ otherājja is responsibility.highly significant on both personal and social levels In Mecca, I didn’t have any responsibility as such apart from worship ... At first, I was more committed; still connected with my Hajj experience ... But being 2 back Other in realstudies life ishave difficult examined . . . the pilgrimage of Muslims in the West, especially in relation to diaspora communities. Some examples include the work of Seán McLoughlin (2009, 2010, 2013) on the pilgrimage of Pakistani Muslims in Great Britain, the Forresearch Abu Bakr of Farooq and Rashid, Haq and committing John Jackson to on the the morals Hajj experience they aspireds of Pakistani to achieve and when Pakistani-Australians pilgrims (Haq and they wereJackson in Mecca 2009), includingas well as Carol honesty, Delaney’s trust, st andudy ‘staying on the pilgrimage on the right of Turkish path’ wasmigrants difficult in Germany (Delaney 1990). There is also given theseveral “realities edited of volumes everyday on life, the struggles,Hajj including and havingHajj: Global to deal Interactions with people through at homePilgrimage and edited by Luitgard Mols and Marjo at work”Buitelaar (Rashid). (Mols What and the Buitelaar two men 2015) described which includes was the severa taxingl case transition studies on from the Hajj, the intense the more recent volume Muslim Pilgrimage in experiencethe Modern in Mecca, World dominated edited by Babak exclusively Rahimi byand religious Peyman pursuits,Eshaghi (Rahimi to the and return Eshaghi home, 2019), to and most recently, Muslim Women’s the multi-dimensionalPilgrimage to Mecca demands and Beyond: and Reco rhythmsnfiguring ofGender, everyday Religion life, and such Mobility as work, edited family by Marjo life, Buitelaar, Manja Stephan-Emmrich and and socialViola responsibilities. Thimm (Buitelaar Rashid et al. 2020). compared Personal the accounts difficulty on Ha ofjj staying(from Morocco) on the include right path, Abdlellah Hammoudi’s A Season in Mecca with ‘the(Hammoudi trust’ that 2006) what and is mentioned Hassan Aourid’s in the Riw Qurāʾuanic Makka verse [The “ ...WavesWe of did Mecca] offer (Aourid the trust 2019). [of

Religions 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 14

in a process which ultimately becomes the continuous crafting of a religious self. How- ever, this process of crafting a religious self takes place within a context where a pilgrim’s morality is both displayed and assessed in the public sphere and is not merely a matter of religious observance and private conduct. Pilgrims have to negotiate their new status— and the expectations that come with being a ḥājj/ḥājja—within the mundane and complex reality of everyday life. Therefore, there are many ambivalences and tensions that pilgrims have to deal with upon their return to Morocco. By focusing on the lives of pilgrims after the pilgrimage is completed, this article aims to contribute to the anthropological study of pilgrimage as part of Muslims’ everyday life (cf. Schielke 2010). In this research, everyday life is explored through participant observation, by following a group of Moroccan pil- grims mainly through the public and private domains which make up their everyday realms of existence. This study scrutinizes the religious, social, and personal ramifications for pilgrims after the completion of Hajj and how they engage in processes of continuous self-formation that sometimes include moments of success and at other times experiences of doubt brought by the ambiguities, contradictions, ambivalences of everyday life.

2. The Impact of the Pilgrimage on the ‘Everyday Life’ of Muslims There is a range of academic studies that look at Muslim pilgrimage through various lenses, for instance in relation to tourism (Jamal et al. 2018; Timothy and Olsen 2006), his- torical encounters (Ryad 2017; Peters 1994, 2017), and globalization (Hyndman-Rizk 2012; Bianchi 2004).2 Considerably less work, however, has been performed on the socio-cul- tural dimensions of the Hajj in the lives of Muslims (cf. Clingingsmith et al. 2009; Donnan 1995; Haq and Jackson 2009; McLoughlin 2009). In a study carried out by David Cling- ingsmith, Asim Khawaja, and Michael Kremer (Clingingsmith et al. 2009) to estimate the impact of performing the Hajj on pilgrims, the authors focus on how performing the Hajj affected religious beliefs and social attitudes of Muslims including feelings of unity with fellow Muslims, increased observance of Islamic practices, such as prayer and fasting, and increased belief in equality and harmony among ethnic groups, in addition to favorable attitudes toward women. In Mass Religious Ritual and Intergroup Tolerance: The Muslim Pil- grims’ Paradox, Alexseev and Zhemukhov (2017) explore how the pilgrimage experience can translate into social tolerance toward out groups. Through studying the experiences of Muslims in the Kabardino-Balkaria Republic, the authors argue that pilgrims were more tolerant toward outgroups and open to diverse interpretations of Islam than were similar non-pilgrims. Alexseev and Zhemukhov further discuss the pilgrims’ struggles with whether or not their Hajj was accepted by God, leading them to analyze their actions during the pilgrimage. In personal accounts of the Meccan pilgrimage, Moroccans—with whom my study was conducted—speak about how they see themselves as Muslims, in- dividuals who seek spiritual quest and members of a Muslim community following their pilgrimage (cf. Cooper 1999; Donnan 1995). The Hajj is significant in shaping individual moral conduct and bestowing an aura of religious merit on those who successfully com-

pleted it (cf. Joll 2011). Christopher M. Joll, in his study of Muslim merit making in Thai- land, refers to the Hajj as the biggest merit-making event of a lifetime (Joll 2011, pp. 171– Article 80). Even the title al-ḥājj or al-ḥājja is highly significant on both personal and social levels

After Hajj: Muslim Pilgrims Refashioning Themselves 2 Other studies have examined the pilgrimage of Muslims in the West, especially in relation to diaspora communities. Some Kholoud Al-Ajarma examples include the work of Seán McLoughlin (2009, 2010, 2013) on the pilgrimage of Pakistani Muslims in Great Britain, the research of Farooq Haq and John Jackson on the Hajj experiences of Pakistani and Pakistani-Australians pilgrims (Haq and FacultyReligions of Jackson2021Theology, 12, 362009), and Religious as well Studies,as Carol University Delaney’s of stGroningen,udy on the 9712 pilgrimage GK Groningen, of Turkish The Netherlands; migrants in Germany (Delaney 1990). There10 of 14is also [email protected] edited volumes on the Hajj including Hajj: Global Interactions through Pilgrimage edited by Luitgard Mols and Marjo Buitelaar (Mols and Buitelaar 2015) which includes several case studies on the Hajj, the more recent volume Muslim Pilgrimage in Abstract:the The Modern pilgrimage edited byto MeccaBabak (Hajj)Rahimi is andone ofPeyman the five Eshaghi pillars of(Rahimi Islam andand aEshaghi duty which 2019), and most recently, Muslim Women’s Muslims Pilgrimagemust perform—once to Mecca and in Beyond: areason lifetime—if Reco andnfiguring volition]they ar Gender,e physically to the Religion heavens, and and financially Mobility and the edited able earth, to by do and Marjo so. the In Buitelaar, mountains Manja yet Stephan-Emmrich they refused to and undertake it and were afraid of it; mankind undertook it—they have always been inept Morocco,Viola from Thimm where thousands(Buitelaar etof al. pilgrims 2020). Pe travelrsonal to accounts Mecca every on Ha year,jj (from the Morocco)Hajj often include represents Abdlellah Hammoudi’s A Season in Mecca and foolish” (Qurʾan 33: 72). He believed that the ideals a pilgrim aspires to reach are the culmination(Hammoudi of years 2006) of andpreparation Hassan Aourid’sand planni Riwng,ā uboth Makka spiritual [The Waves and logistical. of Mecca] Pilgrims (Aourid often 2019). similar to the ‘trust ‘mentioned in the verse: so heavy and unattainable that even heavens describe their journey to Mecca as a transformative experience. Upon successfully completing the and earth refused to carry that trust and also, in a vein similar to the verse, he believed that pilgrimage and returning home, pilgrims must negotiate their new status—and the expectations being foolish and straying from the right path is part of “man’s nature.” that come with it—within the mundane and complex reality of everyday life. There are many am- Although Rashid believed that it is almost impossible to stay on the right path, he bivalences and tensions to be dealt with, including managing the community expectations of piety believed that there are ways to be a good pilgrim including fully applying the teaching of and moral behavior. On a personalthe level, Qur pilgrimsan and struggle the Prophet’s between instructionstaying on the for right moral path, action faith- (cf. Schielke 2009). He told me ful to their pilgrimage experience,that and hestraying aspired from to dothat good path deeds, as a result fast of more, human and imperfection be a good husband as examples of being a and the inability to sustain the idealsgood inspired Muslim by pilgrimage. in general By and ethnographically a good pilgrim studying in particular. the eve- He, however, admitted that it is ryday lives of Moroccans after theirhard return for from everyone Mecca, to this live ar upticle to seeks the standards to answer ofthe being questions: a good pilgrim, and therein lie the how do pilgrims encounter a varietyambiguous of competing consequences expectations of and pursuing demands the following ideals of their religious pil- expectations. As Najla put it: grimage and how are their efforts“At received the end by ofme thembers day, of atheir pilgrim community? is only human; How do humans they shape do the right and the wrong. They their social and religious behaviormight as returned try not pilgrims? to, but itHow is difficult.” do they deal Thus, with the the benefits tensions of be- pilgrimage in terms of its legacy tween the ideals of Hajj and the realitiesare held of daily to be lif equivocal.e? In short, Therefore, this article somescrutinizes pilgrims—and the religious, people around them—recognize social and personal ramifications forthat pilgrims to fail andafter errthe iscompletion human and of Hajj thus and they return moderate to their their com- expectations of pilgrims. munity. My research illustrates that pilgrimageIt is, of course, contributes pilgrims to a process themselves of self-formation who must among deal with their own sense of failure. Citation: Al-Ajarma, Kholoud. 2021. pilgrims, with religious and non-religiousThey may dimensio providens, differentwhich continues explanations long after for Hajj the is change, over and or lack of change, in themselves After Hajj: Muslim Pilgrims Refash- which operates within, and interactafters with, Hajj. specific Osama, social a contexts. pilgrim from Fes, for example, told me that he believed that one’s ioning Themselves. Religions 12: x. character does not significantly change after Hajj but that the outcome of Hajj depends https://doi.org/10.3390/xxxxx Keywords: Hajj; Islam; Morocco; everydayon one’s life; upbringing, self-formationtarbiya . What Hajj adds, according to Osama, is a reminder of moral behavior that people sometimes overlook though the distractions of everyday life. He, Received: 1 December 2020 nonetheless, insisted that, although a pilgrim might return to his old habits, the change in Accepted: 3 January 2021 his or her heart would remain consistent after Hajj. In his words: “after Hajj, a pilgrim’s Published: 7 January 2021 It was narrated that the prophetheart Muhammad is filled with said: faith “An [yi ʿumramar bil- is ¯ımanan¯ expiation].” To overcome for the the sense of failure, Osama visits umra Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neu- sins committed between it andMecca the next, regularly and Hajj to which perform is accepted the minor will pilgrimage,receive no other . He told me that he has been to 1 tral with regard to jurisdictional reward than Paradise.” (hadith)Mecca at least twenty times since he performed the Hajj. For Osama, and several others of claims in published maps and insti- my interlocutors who can afford the expenses of umra, the minor pilgrimage seemed to tutional affiliations. 1. Introduction be a way to deal with their sense of failure by visiting Mecca and “renewing their faith” One day before leaving Mecca(Osama). in October 2015, Abu Bakr, a Moroccan teacher in his early sixties, prayed: “O God, I pay YouI noticed farewe duringll with mymy fieldworktongue, but that not thewith difficulties my heart.” or tensions that emerge when pilgrims try to live up to the religious ideals can be age specific. Many older pilgrims had He then left Mecca to return to Morocco, having completed the rites of the Hajj. At the Copyright: © 2020 by the authors. fewer daily responsibilities and thus could assign more time to religious activities such as airport in Casablanca, his family waited in anticipation of his safe return. At home, food Submitted for possible open access fasting and diligent prayers. Ali, for example, told me that his father, who was retired, had was prepared for a banquet for family and friends. The living room was cleaned and publication under the terms and more time during the day to dedicate to religious duties such as prayers and voluntary scented, and plates of sweets were placed on a centrally positioned, large, round table. conditions of the Creative Commons fasting. He, however, as a younger man, had more distractions within the structures of The preparations at home seemed akin to a purification ritual, making ready the house to Attribution (CC BY) license his daily life. He, nonetheless, argued, that within his community, people tend to be more welcome the returning pilgrim and the many visitors who would come to congratulate (http://creativecommons.org/licenses lenient in judging the behavior of younger people than that of older ones whom they expect him on his safe return. /by/4.0/). to show pious behavior. In a later conversation with Abu Bakr, he used a telling image to describe the condi- Many of interlocutors acknowledged that it was their struggle to lead pious lives after tion of those who perform a pilgrimage, saying: “[Pilgrims] now are like newborn babies: the Hajj that led them to realize that impossibility of always remaining on the right path. Yasir, a fabric shop owner from Fes, emphasized the fact that “it would be impossible for 1 Hajj al-Mabrūr refers to an accepted pilgrimage (cf. Muslim, bookany 15,Muslim—including hadith 493). pilgrims—not to commit sins; only God is Perfect.” Here’s how Ali, an engineer from Casablanca, put it: People have diverse opinions when it comes to what is right and what is wrong

Religions 2021, 12, x. https://doi.org/10.3390/xxxxx ... I know I make mistakeswww.mdpi.com... I really try/journal/religions not to; but at the end of the day we are not ... We all make mistakes ... Í think it was Shafi’i who said, ‘I believe my opinion is right with the possibility that it is wrong and I believe the opinion of those who disagree with me is wrong with the possibility that it is right . . . ’ Expressions such as “Only God is Perfect and “We are not angels” were used by Yasir and Ali to demonstrate the continuous struggle and tension between complying with religious obligations and wanting to engage in mundane activities. The acknowledgement Religions 2021, 12, 36 11 of 14

of failure, in my view, was part of the two men’s ‘self-fashioning’ as pious Muslims (cf. De Koning 2017, p. 48). Also in the same volume, Thijl Sunier asserts that failure and virtue are ambiguous, semantic categories subject to debate and contestation (Sunier 2017, p. 113). It could be argued that explicitly acknowledging their sense of failure can be a ‘technique of the self’ through which pilgrims formulate and rechannel that sense of failure as a learning moment (cf. Beekers and Kloos 2017; Sunier 2017). When my interlocutors acknowledged their failure in the process of ethical forma- tion due to the ambiguities of their everyday lives, they spoke of the different ways they cope with this sense of failure by finding consolation in religious or social activities. Some pilgrims, for example, told me that they managed to find spiritual encouragement by engag- ing in activities that were performed within their social networks which were established during the pilgrimage itself. According to Lubna, a young woman from Mohammedia: During the pilgrimage, I became friends with some Moroccan women I met in Mecca. When we returned, I stayed connected with a few of them ... Sometimes we visit each other and often we exchange messages via WhatsApp ... We remind each other of the time we spent in Mecca and support each other if needed ... Hisham, an older man from Safi, shared similar accounts to that of Lubna, stating that he also was able to establish networks of friends—during Hajj—beyond his old social networks with whom he regularly connect. Other pilgrims find support in social activities such as gatherings of family and friends. Ali, for example, is a member of a group that plays music and sings religious-themed songs at events and gatherings such as or other celebrations. He told me that the activities of the band and practice meetings positively influenced his life. He also told me about a friend who acted similarly by producing artworks including drawings and paintings which he then shared with friends or exhibited in halls where people could see them. These activities, Ali argued, “could strengthen one’s incentives to perform religiously motivated acts in the midst of the struggles of life.” Reflecting upon his experience and ‘testifying’ about moments of struggle—and sometimes failure—contributed to his understanding of his self-development and maybe, as he reflected it, enhanced the presentation of his religious self (cf. Buitelaar 2018).6 In other words, recognizing and responding to one’s lack of capacity to realize certain ideals becomes a mode of self-cultivation. To sum up, failing to live up to ideals and to perform all one’s religious obligations can be partly excused, or at least counterbalanced, by referring to one’s laudable intentions and motivations, suggesting that failure itself is not due to carelessness or a lack of faith, but some flaw inherent in the human condition. I suspect that many pilgrims felt the need to emphasize in this verbal way their heartfelt commitment in order to present themselves as legitimate religious adherents who take their religious obligations seriously, even if their performance falls short of what was desired.

6. Conclusions In this article, I have discussed how pilgrims, who have fulfilled the fifth pillar of their faith, relate to a particular religious ethos that they are expected to embrace, negotiate, and practice within the social spaces they inhabit. On the basis of my observations and conversations with Moroccans, both pilgrims and their family members, friends and other non-pilgrims, I have argued that, just like everybody else, the everyday lives of pilgrims are laden with ambiguities and contradictions. There are several contradictions between, on the one hand, how a pilgrim is expected to behave in a religious moral register and, on the other, the reality of his or her actual behavior and daily interactions with others. Furthermore, as a major event in the lives of Muslims, the Hajj does not only affect the millions of pilgrims who actually make the journey, but also their friends and relatives who vicariously experience the occasion through them. Therefore, the relationships between

6 Buitelaar, personal communication (15 October 2019). Religions 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 14

in a process which ultimately becomes the continuous crafting of a religious self. How- ever, this process of crafting a religious self takes place within a context where a pilgrim’s morality is both displayed and assessed in the public sphere and is not merely a matter of religious observance and private conduct. Pilgrims have to negotiate their new status— and the expectations that come with being a ḥājj/ḥājja—within the mundane and complex Religions 2021, 12, 36 12 of 14 reality of everyday life. Therefore, there are many ambivalences and tensions that pilgrims have to deal with upon their return to Morocco. By focusing on the lives of pilgrims after the pilgrimage is completed, this article aims to contribute to the anthropological study of pilgrimage as part ofpilgrims Muslims’ and everyday their social life networks (cf. Schielke after 2010). the Hajj In this are likelyresearch, to change, everyday in complex and varied life is explored throughways, participant based on their observation, new religious by following and social a group status. of Moroccan pil- grims mainly through theWhile public my and Moroccan private interlocutorsdomains which recognized make up that their pilgrimage everyday to Mecca can have realms of existence. certainThis study transformative scrutinizes propertiesthe religious, on moralsocial, andand ethicalpersonal self-formation ramifications of returning pilgrims, for pilgrims after thethey completion do not always of Hajj consider and how the they outcome engage to in be processes perfect or of lasting. continuous Thus, my research reveals self-formation that sometimesthat the construction include moment of a virtuouss of success self and and piety at other is far times from experiences straightforward in the everyday of doubt brought bylives the ambiguities, of pilgrims. Despitecontradictions, the aspirations ambivalences and manifestly of everyday sincere life. efforts made by returned pilgrims, there is a general realization—among my interlocutors—that the performance 2. The Impact of theof Pilgrimage the Hajj is on no the guarantee, ‘Everyday per Life’ se, of of a Muslims life transformation and an elevation to a higher There is a rangereligious of academic standard. studies It that seems, look from at Muslim the research, pilgrimage that the through lived experiencesvarious of pilgrims are lenses, for instance inrather relation marked to tourism withcomplexities (Jamal et al. 2018; and ambivalences—allTimothy and Olsen of 2006), which his- are rooted in human imperfection and conditioned by the social context in which pilgrims live. torical encounters (Ryad 2017; Peters 1994, 2017), and globalization (Hyndman-Rizk 2012; The narratives of pilgrims indicate this complexity in their struggle to remain on the Bianchi 2004).2 Considerably less work, however, has been performed on the socio-cul- right path of piety and straying from that path. The complexity can also be seen in the tural dimensions of the Hajj in the lives of Muslims (cf. Clingingsmith et al. 2009; Donnan responses of family members and friends to the newly elevated pilgrim which reveal some 1995; Haq and Jackson 2009; McLoughlin 2009). In a study carried out by David Cling- social responses when expectations placed on pilgrims are not fulfilled. The humorous ingsmith, Asim Khawaja, and Michael Kremer (Clingingsmith et al. 2009) to estimate the anecdotes targeting the pilgrim who remains unreformed operates with wit and mild impact of performing the Hajj on pilgrims, the authors focus on how performing the Hajj to indicate a community , and maybe gentle mockery of, the failure to live up to affected religious beliefs and social attitudes of Muslims including feelings of unity with the expectation of total moral transformation. Similarly, the denial of the deferential title of fellow Muslims, increased observance of Islamic practices, such as prayer and fasting, and hajj¯ or hajja¯ to those whose conduct disappoints can act as a corrective, a puncturing of increased belief in equality. . and harmony among ethnic groups, in addition to favorable hubris of those who prize their title above their religious virtue; such acts also subtly assert attitudes toward women. In Mass Religious Ritual and Intergroup Tolerance: The Muslim Pil- the importance of the proper comportment of the h. ajj¯ or h. ajja¯ by withholding the title from grims’ Paradox, Alexseevthose and who Zhemukhov seem not to merit(2017) the explore honor. how the pilgrimage experience can translate into social toleranceTo sum up, toward if piety, out religious groups. self-fashioningThrough studying and the conviction experiences constitute one aspect of of Muslims in the Kabardino-Balkariawhat pilgrims strive Republ to achieve,ic, the post-Hajj, authors imperfection, argue that pilgrims uncertainty, were and ambivalence are more tolerant towardundeniably outgroups competing and open elements to diverse of theinterpretations everyday lives of Islam they live. than Self-perceived were failure is, in similar non-pilgrims.many Alexseev cases, partand andZhemukhov parcel of further religious discuss practice the and pilgrims’ experience. struggles To navigate, or negotiate with whether or notthe their complexities Hajj was accepted of life as by it God, is lived, leading while them still maintainingto analyze their a sense actions of striving for spiritual during the pilgrimage.improvement, In personal is accounts a laudable of the religious Meccan pathway pilgrimage, according Moroccans—with to many pilgrims. However, it is whom my study wasalso conducted—speak the case that to accept about human how they frailty see andthemselves yet sustain as Muslims, a religious in- endeavor, even if not dividuals who seek perfectlyspiritual realized,quest and could members provoke of a aMuslim sense of community failure, which following might, their in turn, militate against pilgrimage (cf. Cooperthat 1999; sustained Donnan religious 1995). practice.The Hajj Ais possiblesignificant reconciliation in shaping individual of these conflicting positions moral conduct and seemsbestowing to be an a recognitionaura of religious that spiritual merit on improvement those who successfully is the target, com- rather than perfection, pleted it (cf. Joll 2011).and Christopher this allows pilgrimsM. Joll, in to his navigate study of the Muslim ambiguities merit of making daily life in Thai- as they find them. land, refers to the Hajj as the biggest merit-making event of a lifetime (Joll 2011, pp. 171– 80). Even the title al-Funding:ḥājj or al-Thisḥājja research is highly was significant funded by theon Netherlandsboth personal Organization and social for levels Scientific Research (NWO) grant number: 360-25-150.

2 Other studies have examined the pilgrimage of MuslimsInformed in the West, Statement: especiallyInformed in relation consent to diaspora was obtained communities. from all subjects Some involved in the study. examples include the work of Seán McLoughlin (2009,Conflicts 2010, of2013) Interest: on theThe pilgrimage author declares of Pakistani no conflict Muslims of interest. in Great Britain, the research of Farooq Haq and John Jackson on the Hajj experiences of Pakistani and Pakistani-Australians pilgrims (Haq and Jackson 2009), as wellReferences as Carol Delaney’s study on the pilgrimage of Turkish migrants in Germany (Delaney 1990). There is also several edited volumesAl-Ajarma, on the Kholoud. Hajj including 2020. Mecca Hajj: in Global Morocco: Interactions Articulations through of Pilgrimage the Muslim edited pilgrimage by Luitgard (Hajj) in Mols Moroccan and Marjo Everyday Life. Ph.D. thesis, Buitelaar (Mols and BuitelaarUniversity 2015) of which Groningen, includes Groningen, several case The studies Netherlands. on the Hajj, the more recent volume Muslim Pilgrimage in the Modern World editedAlexseev, by Babak Mikhail Rahimi A., and and Sufian Peyman N.Zhemukhov. Eshaghi (Rahimi 2017. andMass Eshaghi Religious 2019), Ritual and and most Intergroup recently, Tolerance: Muslim Women’s The Muslim Pilgrims’ Paradox. Pilgrimage to Mecca and Beyond:Cambridge: Reconfiguring Cambridge Gender, University Religion Press. and Mobility edited by Marjo Buitelaar, Manja Stephan-Emmrich and Viola Thimm (BuitelaarAmmerman, et al. 2020). Nancy Pe Tatom,rsonal accounts ed. 2007. onEveryday Hajj (from Religion: Morocco) Observing include Modern Abdlellah Religious Hammoudi’s Lives. Oxford: A Season Oxford in Mecca University Press. (Hammoudi 2006)Aourid, and Hassan Hassan. Aourid’s 2019. Riwāa¯ʾu Makka .[The [The Waves waves of of Mecca] Mecca]. (Aourid Beirut: al-Markaz2019). al-Thakafi. Aziz, Heba. 2001. The journey: An overview of tourism and travel in the Arab/Islamic context. In Tourism and the Less Developed World: Issues and Case Studies. Edited by David Harrison. Cambridge: CABI Publishing, pp. 151–60. Beekers, Daan, and David Kloos, eds. 2017. Straying from the Straight Path: How Senses of Failure Invigorate Lived Religion. and Oxford: Berghahn Books. Bianchi, Robert R. 2004. Guests of God: Pilgrimage and Politics in the Islamic World. New York: . Bourdieu, Pierre. 1986. The Forms of Capital. In Handbook of Theory and Research for the Sociology of . Edited by John Richardson. Translated by Richard Nice. New York: Greenwood, pp. 241–58. Religions 2021, 12, 36 13 of 14

Buitelaar, Marjo. 2018. Comparing Notes: An Anthropological Approach to Contemporary Islam. Inaugural Lecture. Groningen: University of Groningen. Buitelaar, Marjo, Manja Stephan-Emmrich, and Viola Thimm, eds. 2020. Muslim Women’s Pilgrimage to Mecca and Beyond. Reconfiguring Gender, Religion and Mobility. : Routledge. Clingingsmith, David, Asim Ijaz Khwaja, and Michael Kremer. 2009. Estimating the Impact of the Hajj: Religion and Tolerance in Islam’s Global Gathering. The Quarterly Journal of Economics 124: 1133–70. [CrossRef] Cook, Michael. 2000. The Koran: A Very Short Introduction. Oxford: Oxford University Press. Cooper, Barbara. 1999. The Strength in the Song: Muslim Personhood, Audible Capital, and Hausa Women’s Performance of the hajj. Social Text 60: 87–110. De Certeau, Michel. 1988. The Practice of Everyday Life. Translated by Steven Rendall. Berkeley: University of California Press. De Koning, Martijn. 2017. ‘I’m a Weak Servant’: The Question of Sincerity and the Cultivation of Weakness in the Lives of Dutch Salafi Muslims. In Straying from the Straight Path: How Senses of Failure Invigorate Lived Religion. Edited by Daan Beekers and David Kloos. New York and Oxford: Berghahn Books, pp. 37–53. Deeb, Lara. 2015. Thinking Piety and the Everyday Together: A Response to Fadil and Fernando. Hau: Journal of Ethnographic Theory 5: 93–96. [CrossRef] Delaney, Carol. 1990. The ‘Hajj’: Sacred and Secular. American Ethnologist 17: 513–30. [CrossRef] Dessing, Nathal M, Nadia Jeldtoft, Jørgen Schøler Nielsen, and Linda Woodhead, eds. 2013. Everyday Lived Islam in . Ashgate Ahrc/Esrc Religion and Society Series. Farnham: Ashgate. Donnan, Hastings. 1995. Pilgrimage and Islam in Rural : The Influence of the ‘Haj’. Etnofoor 8: 63–82. Eickelman, Dale F, and James Piscatori. 1990. Muslim Travellers: Pilgrimage, Migration, and the Religious Imagination. London: Routledge. Gatrad, Abdul Rashid, and Aziz Sheikh. 2005. Hajj: Journey of a lifetime. BMJ 330: 133–37. [CrossRef][PubMed] Hammoudi, Abdellah. 2006. A Season in Mecca: Narrative of a Pilgrimage. Cambridge: Polity Press. Haq, Farooq, and John Jackson. 2009. Spiritual Journey to Hajj: Australian and Pakistani Experience and Expectations. Journal of Management, & Religion 6: 141–56. Hyndman-Rizk, Nelia. 2012. Pilgrimage in the Age of Globalisation: Constructions of the Sacred and Secular in Late Modernity. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. Jamal, , Razaq Raj, and Kevin A Griffin, eds. 2018. Islamic Tourism: Management of Travel Destinations. Boston: CABI. Joll, Christopher M. 2011. Muslim Merit-Making in Thailand’s Far-South. Muslims in Global Societies Series 4; : Springer. Available online: https://www.academia.edu/1975047/Muslim_Merit-making_in_Thailands_Far-south_Springer_2011 (accessed on 10 November 2020). Mahmood, Saba. 2005. Politics of Piety: The and the Feminist Subject. Anthropology Online. Princeton: Princeton University Press. Mawdudi, A. 1982. Origin and Significance of the Hajj. Available online: http://www.islamicity.com/mosque/hajj/ letsbemuslims.htm (accessed on 15 November 2020). McGuire, Meredith B. 2008. Lived Religion: Faith and Practice in Everyday Life. Oxford: Oxford University Press. McLoughlin, Sean. 2009. Holy Places, Contested Spaces: British-Pakistani Accounts of Pilgrimage to Makkah and Madinah. In Muslims in Britain: Identities, Places and Landscapes. Edited by Peter Hopkins and Richard Gale. : Edinburgh University Press, pp. 132–49. McLoughlin, Sean. 2010. Muslim Travellers: Homing Desire, the Umma, and British-. In Diasporas: Concepts, Identities, Intersections. Edited by Kim Knott and Sean McLoughlin. London: Zed Books, pp. 223–229. McLoughlin, Sean. 2013. Organizing Hajj-going from Contemporary Britain: A Changing Industry, Pilgrim Markets and the Politics of Recognition. In The Hajj: Collected Essays. Edited by V. Porter and Liana Saif. London: The British Museum Press, pp. 241–52. Migdadi, Fathi, Muhammad A. Badarneh, and Kawakib Momani. 2010. Divine Will and its Extensions: Communicative Functions of maašaallah in Colloquial Jordanian Arabic. Communication Monographs 77: 480–99. [CrossRef] Mols, Luitgard, and Marjo Buitelaar, eds. 2015. Hajj: Global Interactions through Pilgrimage. Mededelingen van het Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde Leiden. Leiden: Sidestone Press, vol. 43. Peters, Francis E. 1994. The Hajj: The Muslim Pilgrimage to Mecca and the Holy Places. Princeton: Princeton University Press. Peters, Francis. E. 2017. Mecca: A Literary History of the Muslim . Princeton: Princeton University Press. Rahimi, Babak, and Peyman Eshaghi, eds. 2019. Muslim Pilgrimage in the Modern World. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press. Ryad, Umar, ed. 2017. The Hajj and Europe in the Age of . Leiden: Brill. Sadiqi, Fatima. 2018. Female Perceptions of Islam in Today’s Morocco. Journal of Feminist Scholarship 11: 48–60. Schielke, Samuli. 2009. Being Good in Ramadan: Ambivalence, Fragmentation, and the Moral Self in the Lives of Young . The Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute 15: S24–40. Available online: www.jstor.org/stable/20527687 (accessed on 20 November 2020). [CrossRef] Schielke, Samuli. 2010. Second Thoughts on the Anthropology of Islam. ZMO Working Papers. Available online: http://zmo.de/ publikationen/WorkingPapers/schiel-ke_2010.pdf (accessed on 20 November 2020). Schielke, Samuli. 2015. in the Future Tense: Hope, Frustration, and Ambivalence Before and After 2011. Bloomington: University Press. Religions 2021, 12, 36 14 of 14

Schielke, Samuli, and Liza Debevec, eds. 2012. Ordinary Lives and Grand Schemes: An Anthropology of Everyday Religion. New York: Berghahn Books. Scupin, Raymond. 1982. The Social Significance of the Hajj for Thai Muslims. The Muslim World 72: 25–33. [CrossRef] Simon, Gregory M. 2014. Caged in on the Outside: Moral Subjectivity, Selfhood, and Islam in Minangkabau, . Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press. Spiro, Melford E. 1997. Gender and Psychological Reality: An Essay on Cultural Reproduction. New Haven: Yale University Press. Sunier, Thijl. 2017. Moral Failure, Everyday Religion and Islamic Authorization. In Straying from the Straight Path: How Senses of Failure Invigorate Lived Religion. Edited by Daan Beekers and David Kloos. New York: Bergbahn, pp. 107–24. Tamer, Georges. 2009. Humor in Der Arabischen Kultur. Berlin: Walter de Gruyter. Timothy, Dallen J, and Daniel H. Olsen. 2006. Tourism, Religion, and Spiritual Journeys. London: Routledge. Toguslu, Erkan, ed. 2015. Everyday Life Practices of Muslims in Europe. Leuven: Leuven University Press. Tweed, Thomas A. 2006. Crossing and Dwelling: A Theory of Religion. Cambridge: Harvard University Press. Wolfe, Michael. 1997. One Thousand Roads to Mecca: Ten Centuries of Travelers Writing about the Muslim Pilgrimage. New York: Grove.