© Lonely Planet Publications 340 Index (B-D) 341

Buin 245 Riba Cave 276 Umboldi Cultural Show 149 Buka 242-3 skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172 Wahgi Cultural Show 294 Index Buka baskets 47, 241-2 caving 286 culture 33-47 242-3 cell phones 300 ancestor worship 36 Buka Passage 242, 242 cemeteries bigmen 34, 35 See also GreenDex pp348-9. Aronis 147 bird-watching 207, 285 Bula Falls 135 Bagail Cemetery 229 bride price 36 ABBREVIATIONS artefacts 42, 47, 298-9, see also Bensbach 208 Bulldog Track 137 Bita Paka War Cemetery 218 initiation rites 36, 197 A ACT Australian Capital carvings 116 Bulolo 139-40 Bomana War Cemetery 83 Southern Highlands 170 Territory Abel, Reverend Charles 86, 117 bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 Kimbe Bay 226 Buna 106 War Cemetery 129-30 wantoks 37 NSW New South Wales accommodation 282-5, see also Buka baskets 47, 241-2 Kiunga 206, 207 Bundi 149 Cemetery 142 customs, food 66 NT Northern Territory individual locations Highland hats 47, 81, 159, 167 239 bushwalking, see trekking, walking Peter ToRot’s cemetery & customs regulations 291 Qld Queensland village stays 122, 235 masks 46, 228, 294, 7 239 business hours 290 memorial church 219 cycling 236, 315 SA South activities 285-9, see also individual nguzunguzus 46 Mt Hagen 169 Butaweng waterfalls 138 Centennial Hill 89 Tas Tasmania activities pottery 45, 145-6, 198 Rennell 279 butterflies 51, 54, 105, 147 Central Province (PNG) 88-90, 86-7 D Vic Victoria acute mountain sickness 324 storyboards 45-6, 177, 198 Island 116 Butterfly Ranch 139 history 86-7 Dalom 236 WA Western Australia Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft 44-5, 47, 137 Tari 173-4 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146 Central Province () Dampier, William 25, 150 wreck 245 arts 41-7, see also individual arts tours 173-4, 206, 285 Bwetalu village 122 261-3, 261 dance 43-4 agriculture 22-3 books 45 Tufi 108 Chambri Lakes 198-9 dangers 291-2 Ahus Island 239 Asaro mud men 159-60 Varirata National Park 83 C children, travel with 290 diving 325 Aibom 198 Aseki 140 Bita Paka War Cemetery 218 123 Chimondo 198 hitching 318 air travel ATMs 297 Black Cat Track 137 camping 282 Chinatown 253 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296 airfares 308 Auki 276 blackbirding 26, 87, 227-8 cannibalism 23, 25 Choiseul 280 darts 156 airlines 306-7 Australian War Memorial (Alotau) 110 Blackwater Lakes 199 Anga people 201 Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201 Daru 205 airports 306-7 Avu Avu 261 Blue Lagoon Lookout 218 China Strait 116 242 Daugo Island 76

history 312 boat travel 286, 315-16, see also laughing disease 161 Christopher Robinson Memorial 115 Daulo Pass 160 INDEX to/from PNG & Solomon Islands B canoes, rafting, sailing 212 cinema 42-3, see also films David Suzuki Trail 136 307-10 Baeroko Bay 265 Sepik River 191-3 Province 228 climate 15, 290-1 de Bougainville, Louis 24-5 INDEX within PNG & Solomon Islands Baining people 213, 215 to/from PNG 311 canoes 316 global warming 53-4, 307 de Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro 23-4 312-15 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 to/from Solomon Islands 311 Cape Espérance 260 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142 dengue fever 322 Aitape 187 Bandit 149-50 Bobongara 138 Cape Moem 183 Connolly, Bob 42 D’Entrecasteaux Islands 116-18 Alexishafen 147 bandits, see raskols Bogia 147 Cape Wom International Memorial consulates 293 diarrhoea 323 Alotau 109-13, 110 Bargam 147 Bol 236 Park 183 coral cuts 325 disabilities, travellers with 301-2 Amboin 199 Basilisk Passage 76 Bolubolu 118 car travel 317-18 coral ear 325 diving 55-63, 286-7, 55, 5 Ambunti 194 baskets 47, 241-2 Boluminski Hwy 235-6 cargo cults 33, 34 cormorants 280 Gizo 63, 270-1 Amron 147 bathrooms 301 Bomana War Cemetery 83 Carteret, Captain Philip 24 costs 15-16 60 ancestor worship 36 bats 49, 142 Bonegi 259 carvings 45 crafts, see artefacts hazards 325 Anderson, Robin 42 Battle of Milne Bay 88 books 16, 17 buying carvings 298 Crater Mountain Wildlife Management Honiara 253 Anga people 127, 201 Battle of Wau 125 arts 45 Gogdala 46 Area 160 internet resources 62 Anganmai 199 Bau 137 birds 48, 49 Malangan 46, 228 credit cards 297 Kavieng 59, 230-1 Angoram 197-8 Beehives, the 219, 223 Bougainville 30 master carvers 46, 122, 191, 269 cricket 39, 121, 6 Kimbe Bay 59, 226 animals 48-52, see also individual Bellona 281 food 66 Sepik, the 177, 183, 195, 7 crocodiles 48, 208, 324 Kokopo 214-15 species Bellona Province 279-81 28, 103 122 Crocodile Festival 194 live-aboard boats 57, 115 books 50, 51 Bensbach 208 travel 16 Wewak 183 cruises 315 Madang 56-7, 142-3 wildlife-watching 53, betel nut 35 wildlife 50, 51 cassowaries 48-9 Crystal Rapids 84 62-3, 267-8 289 Betikama 258-9 WWII 28 caves cults 33, 34, 36, 120 Milne Bay 58 April (Wara) River 198 bicycle travel, see cycling border crossings 310-11, 314 Benua Cave 241 cultural shows 10, 294, see also muck diving 57, 58, 107, 116, 286-7 Arawa 244 Bilbil 145-6 Botanical Gardens 129 burial caves 140 festivals Munda 61-2, 264 architecture 44 bigmen 34, 35 Bougainville 243-5 Kalopa Cave 120 Bargam Agricultural Show 147 57, 76 area codes 300, see also inside front bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 books 30 Kantobo 172 Cameron Cultural Show 111 58, 220 cover Bird island 280 itineraries 20 Keu Caves 162 Goroka Show 158 61 Arnarvon Islands 280 birds 48-51, see also individual Bougainville Revolution Army 29, 241, Loniu Cave 239 Hagita Cultural Show 111 Samarai Island 116 species 245, 314 Manubyai Cave 147 Kundiawa Simbu Show 294 Tawali 115 000 Map pages birds of paradise 50-1, 129, 173, Boulay, Franck 61 Octopus Cave 280 Morobe Show 131 Tufi 57, 107 000 Photograph pages 206, 207 Brahmin 149 Oketemp Cave 188 Mt Hagen Show 166 61, 262 books 48, 49 British East India Company 25 Oksapmin 188 Tufi Cultural Show 107 WWII sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253 342 Index (D-H) Index (H-L) 343

documentaries 42 International Orchid Spectacular 76 Goilala region 90 Honiara 247-58, 252-3 Kaip village 169 Kokopo 213-18, 214 Doini Island 116 Kalam Culture Festival 149 golf accommodation 253-5 Kairiru Island 184 Koliwan, Moses 244 drinks 65 Mabarosa Festival 143 Lae 131 attractions 250 Kaisiga 120 274 driving 317-18 Malagan Festival 231 Madang 143 diving 253 Kambaramba 198 Komate 261 Duke of York Group 224, 225 Milamala Festival 119 Port Moresby 76 drinking 256 Kambot 198 Konogogo 237 Dutch East Indies Company 24 Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Wewak 181 entertainment 256-7 Kamiali Wildlife Management Area Konos 236 Festival 111 Gona 106 food 255-6 136-7 Kontu 237 E PNG Coffee Festival 158 118 travel to/from 257 Kamina 204 Korogo 194 Earhart, Amelia 26, 128 Warwagira Festival 215 Goroka 156-9, 157 travel within 257-8 Kaminabit 196 Krangket Island 145 East Cape 113-14 yam festivals 184 Govermas 199 Hoskins 225 Kanabea 204 kula ring 117 East Islands 234-5 filariasis 322 Green Island 238 hotels 282-4, see also individual Kanganaman 195 Kuma 261 East New Britain Historical & Cultural films 17, 41, 42, see also cinema Green River 193 locations kangaroos, tree 50, 150 Kundiawa 161-2 Centre 214 Finschhafen 138-9 Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 beach 90 Kangu Beach 245 kundu drums 43 East New Britain Province 213-25 First Contact 27, 42, 153 diving 60 Huli people 170, 173 Kantobo 172 kuru 161 East Sepik Province 178-85 fishing 287 Guinea Airways 312 Huli wigmen 173 Karavia Bay 218 Kwaibala Waterfall 276 Eastern Highlands Province Alotau 111 Gulf Province 201-4, 202-3 Huon Gulf coast 135-8 Karawari River 199 Kwaio people 278 156-61 Baia 227 gun run 314 150-1 Kwato Island 116 Eastern Island Groups 238 Bensbach 208 Gwado 135 I Kau Rainforest Museum & economy 12, 36-8 Daru 205 Gwale people 30, 249 Ialibu 171-2 Conservation Area 147 L ecotourism 54 Honiara 253 Ihu 203-4 Kauage, Mathias 41, 45 Lababia 136 GreenDex 348-9 Kavieng 231 H Indabu 195, 198 Kavieng 229-34, 230 Labi Island 121 electricity 283 Kikori 204 Hansa Bay 148 independence 29 diving 59, 230-1 Labu Lakes 135 elephantiasis 322 Lae 131 Hanuabada 73 initiation rites 36, 197 kayaking 286 Labu Tali Conservation Area 135-6 embassies 293 Marovo Lagoon 268 haus tambarans 36, 44, 195 insurance Kavieng 229, 231 Lae 128-35, 130

emergencies, see inside front cover Ramata 268 headdresses 46 health 320 Loloata Island 90 accommodation 132-3 INDEX Enga Province 168-9 Flannery, Tim 48 head-hunting 23, 201, 228, travel 295 Marovo Lagoon 268-9 attractions 129 Enhanced Cooperation Program 13 Fly River 201, 204, 206 277 internet access 295 63, 271 festivals 131 INDEX Enoghae 265 flying foxes 49, 52, 140 health 320-6 internet resources 16-18 Kennedy, John F 27, 273 food 133 environment 48-54 Flynn, Errol 16, 22, 87 insurance 320 diving 62 Keram River 198 travel to/from 134 environmental issues 52-4 food 64-7, 294, see also individual internet resources 321 health 321 Kerema 202-3 travel within 134-5 global warming 53-4, 307 locations hepatitis A 322 music 43 Kieta 244 Lae War Cemetery 129-30 Marovo Lagoon 266 books 66 hepatitis B 323 WWII 27 Kikori 204 Laiagam 169 mining 52-3 customs 66 Hermit 240 Isabel 280 Kimbe 225-6 Laing Island 148 Sepik, the 177 football 39 Highlands, the 152-74, 154-5 Island Provinces 209-45, 210-11 Kimbe Bay 226 Lake Govermas 199 ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, 247, 249 Free West Papua Movement 30, 176 Eastern Highlands Province 156-61 itineraries 19-21 diving 59, 226 Lake Kopiago 174 events, see cultural shows, festivals frogs 50, 52 Enga Province 168-9 Island 119-23, 119 Lake Kutubu 172 exchange rates, see inside front fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106 Simbu Province 161-3 J Island 121 Lake Rau 169 cover Southern Highlands Province Jacquinot Bay 224 Kiunga 206-7 Laloki River Gorge 83 expatriates 38-9 G 169-74 Jais Aben 146-7 Kohinggo island 266 277-8 Gagidu Station 138 Western Highlands Province 163-8 James, Keith 231 Koitabu people 69 Langemack Bay 138 F Galahi Island 116 hiking, see trekking, walking Japanese B Encephalitis 323 Koki 73-4 language 327-30 fax services 300-1 garamuts 43, 45 Hiritano Hwy 84, 89-90 Japanese Barge Tunnels 218 Kokoda 105 food glossary 67 Feni Island 238 Garamut & Flute Festival 181 history 22-32, see also Kokoda Track, Japanese bases 106, 274 Kokoda Buna Historical Foundation Summer Institute of Linguistics 118 gay travellers 294-5 WWII Japanese Memorial Peace Park 180 106 160 festivals 294, see also cultural shows Gazelle Peninsula 212, 220, blackbirding 26, 87, 227-8 Japanese Observation Point 258 Kokoda Track 27, 91-105, 92-3, Lapita people 22, 212 Biang Ngayam Cultural Festival 218-19 German settlement 25 Japanese Peace Memorial 220 94-5, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 278 131-2 geography 48 independence 29 jellyfish 325 103, 104 laughing disease 161 Crocodile Festival 194 German Company 125, WWI 26 jewellery 46-7 books 28, 103 Lavongai (New Hanover) 234 Enga Festival 168 138, 176, 212, 240 hitching 318 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 history 27, 98-100 Leahy, Mick 27 Garamut & Flute Festival 181 German settlement 25 Hiti people 24 Kokoda Challenge 101 leatherback turtles 135, 136 Hiri Moale Festival 76 270-4 HIV/AIDS 323 K maps 93 leeches 324 giardiasis 324 holidays 295 Kaibola village 120 planning 91-5 legal matters 295-6 000 Map pages Gifu 258 Holupuru Falls 265 Island 120 travel to/from 95-6 Lelet Plateau 237 000 Photograph pages Gizo 270-3, 271 Holy Cross Catholic Cathedral 253 Kainantu 160-1 trekking companies 93-5 lesbian travellers 294-5 diving 63, 270-1 Hombrum Bluff Lookout 83 Kaintiba 204 Kokopau 244 Libba 236 344 Index (L-N) Index (N-S) 345

Lido 187 maps 296 Mt Bau 265 National Parliament 251 Popondetta 105-7 Rossel (Yela) Island 123 Lihir 238 Kokoda Track 93 Mt Bosavi 172-3 Ndoma 260 population 38-9 Rouna Falls 83 literature, see books 260 Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park 160 New Britain 212-27, 218-19 Port Moresby 68-84, 70-1 Roviana Lagoon 265 live-aboard boats 57, 115 Mariama 199 Mt Hagen 164-8, 164 East New Britain Province 213-25 accommodation 78-9 Ruaniu 260 logging 52, 54, 185, 266 markets Mt Kis Lookout 158 West New Britain Province 225-7 activities 76 Russell Islands 263 265 Gizo 270 Mt Lamanai 118 New Ireland Province 227-38 attractions 73-6 diving 61 Loloata Island 90 Goroka 159 Mt Lamington 29, 106 newspapers 40, 283 Boroko 77 Loloho 244 Honiara 252 Mt Lunaman 130-1 261-2 diving 57, 76 S Long Island 150 Koki 73 Mt Tambu 136 Ninigo 240 drinking 79-80 safe travel 291-2 Los Negros Island 239-40 Kokopo 214-15 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, 222, Nobonob 146 Ela Beach 75 diving 325 Louisade Archipelago 123 Mt Hagen 167 223, 8 Normanby Island 117-18 entertainment 80-1 hitching 318 Lutheran Mission 125 Port Moresby 81 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224 Noro 265 festivals 76 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296 Wewak 182-3 Mt Wilhelm 162-3 Northern Island 278 food 79-80 Saidowai village 118 M Marovo Lagoon 266-70, 267 muck diving 58, 286-7 North Solomons Province shopping 81 Saigara 137 MacGregor, Sir William 26 diving 62-3, 267-8 Samarai Island 116 240-5 tours 76 sailing 231, 234, 315 Madang 140-5, 141 masks 46, 228, 294, 7 Tufi 57, 107 Nusa Roviana 265 travel to/from 81-2 Sal Island 242 diving 56-7, 142-3 Mataniko Falls 258 mud men 159-60 travel within 82-3 136 140-51, Matupit Island 223 Munda 264 O Waigani 77 Salemben 147 126-7 May (Iwa) River 198 diving 61-2, 264 Obweria village 122 postal services 298 Salvinia molesta 177 history 125 Mbanbanakira 261 Murik Lakes 198 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146 pottery 45, 145-6, 198 Samarai Island 115-16 Madehas Island 242 McDonald’s Corner 83 Muschu Island 184 Ok Tedi Mine 205 printmaking 44-5 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178 Magendo 198 measures 283, see also inside front museums Oksapmin 174, 188 PT boats 108 Sandfly Passage 262 Magi Hwy 90 cover Betikama WWII museum 259 Omarakana 120 Putput 235 Sandline Affair 30, 241 magic practice 34, 35, 41, 278, see medical services 321-2, see also health East New Britain Historical & Ona, Francis 29, 30, 241 Sapeahora 204

also witchcraft Mekeo people 89 Cultural Centre 214 opening hours 290 Q Savo 262-3 INDEX Magiya 147 Mendam 198 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 Oro Bay 107 Queen Emma’s house 214 sea-kayaking 286 Maio 193 Mendi 170-1 Kau Rainforest Museum & Oro Province 105-8, 86-7 Sepik region 175-88 INDEX -Ulawa 280 Menyamya 140 Conservation Area 147 history 86-7 R carvings 177, 183, 195, 7 Malaita Island 274-9 Messi 237 Madang museum 142 Rabaul 219-23, 220 East Sepik Province 178-85, 178 274-9, 275 metric conversions, see inside front Munda WWII museum P diving 58, 220 environmental issues 177 Malalaua 204 cover 264 Pagwi 194 Rabaul Nakaia 224 initiation rites 197 Malangan 46 109-23, 86-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) painting 44-5 radio 40, 283 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178 malaria 323 diving 58 75-6 Palambei 195 rafting 221, 224 Sepik River 188-99, 8 Malay people 23 Mindimbit 196 National Museum & Cultural Panguna 244 Rainforest Habitat 129 Lower Sepik 197-8, 196-7 Malinowski, Bronsilaw 118, 120 mining 36, 52 Centre (Honiara) 251 Paradise beach 89 Ramu River 148 Middle Sepik 194-7, 196-7 Malmaluan Lookout 219 Bougainville copper mine 12 New Guinea Club & Rabaul Parliament Haus 74-5 274 planning 189-90 Malolo 147 Ok Tedi Mine 205 Museum 219 passports 306 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, tours 181, 193 Malom 236 Panguna mine 241 Vilu open-air museum 260 Pema 137 296 tributaries & lakes 198-9 Malu’u 278 Porgera mine 168 Wabag cultural centre 168 Peter ToRot’s cemetery & rats 51 Upper Sepik 193-4 Mamara Beach 259 Mioko Island 224 music 43 memorial church 219 Raun Raun Theatre 157 Sepo island 274 Mameri 199 123 Mustar, Pard 312 Phantom, the 34 280 Seremi village 106 Mana 262 mobile phones 300 phonecards 300 refugee detention centre 239 Sewa Bay 117 Manam Island 148, 151 moga ceremony 171 N photography 297 Regional Assistance Mission to the shark calling 237 Maneba 138 Moim 198 Nagada Harbour 146 Pigeon Island 280 Solomon Islands 13-14, 249 sharks 237 Mangalonga 262 money 15-16, 293, 296-7, see also Nagam 198 Pijin 327-8 religion 40, see also cults, magic shopping 298-9 Manikaraku 260 inside front cover Namatanai 236-8 planning 293, see also practice, witchcraft 280 Manta Ray Cleaning Station 116 Moresby, Captain John 69 Nateara Reef 76 itineraries ancestor worship 36 Siar Island 145 Manubada (Local) Island 76 Morgan Junction 244 National Botanic Gardens 76 plants 49, 51, see also individual plants Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201 Simbai 149 Manus Island 239 127-40, 126-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) PMVs 318-19 Rendova 265 island 274 238-40 mosquitoes 178, 322, 323 75-6 Poha 259 Rennell 279-81, 279 Simbu Province 161-3 Maprik 184-5 Moti, Julian 14, 31 National Museum & Cultural Centre Point Cruz 250 restaurants 65-6, see also individual Simpson Harbour 219 motorcycle travel 317-18 (Honiara) 251 politics 12-14, 30-2 locations Sinasi Reef 76 000 Map pages Motu people 69 national parks 52 ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, Ringgi 274 skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172 000 Photograph pages Mt Austen Rd 258 Lake Kutubu 172 247, 249 ringtail possums 50 Skull island 265 Mt Balbi 244 Varirata National Park 83 Polynesian people 23 Robinson, Christopher 115 Skyline Drive 252 © Lonely Planet Publications 346 Index (S-W) Index (W-Y) 347

Smart, Rae 303 Tembin 237 Tulagi 262 tours 163, 172 Western Province (Solomon Islands) Battle of Wau 125 snakes 50, 324 280 diving 61, 262 Varirata National Park 83 263-74, 264 books 28 snorkelling, see diving Tenaru 259 turtles 135, 136 Wamol village 168 Wewak 179-83, 180 Bulldog Track 137 Sogavare, Manasseh 13 Teptep 150 TV 42-3, 283 wantoks 37 White Island 242 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142 Sogeri Rd 83-4 266 typhoid fever 323 war memorials White River Village 251-2 dive sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253 Sohano Island 242 textiles 47 Australian War Memorial (Alotau) Wickham, Dorothy 257 fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106 solo travellers 299 theatre 43-4 U 110 wigmen 173 internet resources 27 Solomon Islands 246-81, 248 Raun Raun Theatre 152 268-9 Australian war memorial wildlife 48-52 itineraries 21 Bellona Province 279-81 Timbunke 196 Ukarumpa 161 (Popondetta) 106 books 50, 51 PT boats 108 Central Province 261-3, 261 time 301, 350-1 Uluputur 237 Cape Wom International Memorial wildlife management areas 52 tours 221, 253, 265 culture 33, 247 toilets 301 Upper Ramu Project 161 Park 183 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 WWII sites & relics Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 328-30 280 Japanese war memorial (Aitape) 187 Crater Mountain Wildlife Alexishafen 147 history 22 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Japanese war memorial (Poha) 259 Management Area 160 Buin 245 Malaita Province 274-9, 275 207-8 V Memorial Gardens 259 Kamiali Wildlife Management Buka 242 Rennell 279-81, 279 Tore, Tony 74 vacations 295 US war memorial 252 Area 136-7 Buna 106 Western Province 263-74, 264 tourist information 301 vaccinations 320 Waramo 187 Kantobo 172 Cape Moem 183 Solomons Peace Memorial Park tours 319, see also village tours 280 Waria Valley 137-8 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Guadalcanal 259 258 Amboin 199 Vanimo 185-7 Wasi Falls 172 207-8 Kiriwina Island 120 Somare, Sir Michael 13, 32 bird-watching 173-4, 206, 285 Varirata National Park 83 Watam 148 wildlife-watching 53, 289 Kolombangara 274 Songitin eternal flame 188 cultural tours 174, 268, 279 274 water 323 Willaumez Peninsula 226 Kokopo 218 Southern Highlands Province 169-74 cycling tours 236 Veuru 260 water hyacinth 177 windsurfing 289-90 Matupit Island 223 souvenirs 299, see also artefacts Goroka 158 village stays 122, 235 Wau 139-40 witchcraft 109, 116, see also magic Salamaua 136 spirit houses 36, 44, 195 Honiara 253 village tours Wawela 120 practice Talasea 226 sports 39, see also cricket Kavieng 231 Amboin 199 weather 15 Wogamush River 198

Stone Dog 265 kayaking 286 Jais Aben 147 tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Wom 198 Y INDEX string bags 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 Kokoda Track 93-5 Madang 143 Weathercoast 261 Wombun 198 Yabob 145 Suapmeri 194-5 Kwaio people 278 Marovo Lagooon 269 weaving 47 women in PNG 40-1 Yalaka village 122 INDEX Summer Institute of Linguistics 160 Lae 129, 131 Mt Hagen 165 websites, see internet resources women in Solomon Islands 40-1 Yambon 193 sunburn 326 Madang 143 Putput 235 weights 283, see also inside front women travellers 304-5 Yamok 194 surfing 21, 287-8 Milne Bay 109, 111 Vilu open-air museum 260 cover work 305 yams 35, 65, 120 itineraries 21 Mt Hagen 165-6 visas 302-3, see also passports West New Britain Province 225 240 Yandina 263 Kavieng 229 Mt Wilhelm 162 volcanoes West 263-6 WWI 26 Yaws 323 Los Negros Island 239 Port Moresby 76 Karkar Island 150-1 Western Highlands Province 163-8 WWII 21, 27-8, see also cemeteries, Yentchen 195 Manus Island 239 Rabaul 221 Manam Island 148, 151 Western Province (PNG) 204-8, 202-3 Kokoda Track, museums, war Yessan 193 Vanimo 186 Sepik River 181, 193 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, culture 201 memorials Yip 198 Swagup 193 walking tours 163, 172 222, 223, 8 history 201 Battle of Milne Bay 88 89-90 West New Georgia 264-5 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224 T wildlife-watching 289 Savo 262 Tabar 238 WWII sites 221, 253, 265 volunteering 303-4 Tabubil 205-8 traditional medicine 326 Lagoon 265 Talasea 226 tree kangaroos 50, 150 Vulcanology Observatory 220 Tambanum 196-7 trekking 17, 288-9, see also walking Tami Island 138 Black Cat Track 137 W Tanga Island 238 Bulldog Track 137 Wabag 168-9 Tangarere 261 jungle tracks 289 Wagawaga 114 Tari 173 Kokoda Track 91-105 Wagu Lagoon 198 island 260 Kolombangara 274 Wahgi Valley 168 Tawali 115 Ramu River 149 Waigani 77 taxis 318 tribal art 191 Wakunai 244 Telefomin 188 Trobriand Islands 118-23 walking 319, see also trekking telephone services 300-1 carvings 122 Ialibu 172 Tsoi Island 234 Madang, to 163 000 Map pages tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Marovo Lagoon 268 000 Photograph pages Tufi 107-8 Mt Wilhelm 162 diving 57, 107 Rabaul 224 © Lonely Planet Publications 348 GreenDex 349

Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles National Parks Board Huts SOLOMON ISLANDS GREENDEX (Bol) 236 (Mt Wilhelm) 163 CENTRAL PROVINCE Puroro Guest House (Lelet activities GreenDex Plateau) 237 SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS MV Bilikiki (Russell Islands) 263

GREENDEX Treehouse Village Resort PROVINCE Tulagi Dive (Tulagi) 262 (Putput) 235 accommodation The following attractions, activities, tours and accommodation have been selected by Lonely Planet Tsoi Lik Lagoon Guesthouse Ambua Lodge (Tari) 174 GUADALCANAL authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism. Some places are run locally or by (Tsoi Island) 234 Kiburu Lodge (Mendi) 171 accommodation a community (eg a women’s group or church) and profits remain in the community. Some are activities Pentecostal Guesthouse Tavanipupu Island Resort also unintentionally very ‘green’; they may have no electricity, and grow or catch their own food. Adventures in Paradise Yacht (Mendi) 171 (Tavanipupu Island) 260 Compared to consumption in the West, these places are very economical with resources. We’ve also Charters (Nusa Lik Island) Tari Women’s Guesthouse Tawaihi Island Retreat (Tawaihi included ecolodges that are upmarket compared to the local village guesthouse, and offer ecotours 230 (Tari) 174 Island) 260 (such as bird-watching), which allow communities to make a living from the natural environment, Kavieng Surf Club Tubo Eco-Tourism Lodge and provide an alternative to selling up to mining and logging companies. (Kavieng) 230 (Lake Kutubu) 172 MALAITA PROVINCE We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content. If you think we’ve omitted someone Scuba Ventures Warili Lodge (Tari) 174 accommodation who should be listed here, or if you disagree with our choices, contact us at www.lonelyplanet (Kavieng) 231 Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway .com/contact and set us straight for next time. For more information about sustainable tourism WEST NEW BRITAIN (Langa Langa Lagoon) 278 and Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel. ORO PROVINCE PROVINCE activities accommodation WESTERN PROVINCE Tufi Dive Resort (Tufi) 108 Walindi Plantation Resort accommodation MADANG PROVINCE Kamiali Training Centre & (Kimbe Bay) 227 Fatboys (Mbabanga Island) CENTRAL PROVINCE accommodation Guesthouse (Lababia) 137 SEPIK, THE attractions 272 accommodation Anua Negu Lodge (Bogia) 148 Labu Tali guesthouse (Labu Tali accommodation Mahonia Na Dari Conservation Matikuri Lodge (Marovo Lagoon) Loloata Island Resort (Loloata CWA Guesthouse (Madang) 143 village) 135 Ambunti Catholic Mission Centre (Kimbe Bay) 226 268 Island) 90 Kalam Guest House (Simbai) 149 Lutheran Guesthouse (Lae) 132 (Ambunti) 194 Oravae Cottage (Sepo island) Keki Eco-Mountain Lodge Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse Ambunti Lodge (Ambunti) 194 WESTERN HIGHLANDS 274 EAST NEW BRITAIN (Salemben) 148 (Lae) 132 Auong Guesthouse (Muschu PROVINCE Sanbis Resort (Mbabanga Island) PROVINCE Krangket Island Lodge (Krangket Salamaua Guesthouse (Salamaua) Island) 184 accommodation 272 accommodation Island) 145 136 Karawari Lodge (Amboin) 199 Wahgi Guesthouse (Wahgi Valley) Tetepare Descendants’ Association Kabaira Beach Hideaway Siar Island Guesthouse (Siar Salamaua High School (Salamaua) Toheyo Guesthouse (Wasui 168 (Tetepare Island) 266 (Kabaira Bay) 224 Island) 145 136 Lagoon) 198 tours Uepi Island Resort (Marovo Koki Women’s Guesthouse Teptep Guesthouse (Teptep) 150 Tami Guesthouse (Tami Island) 138 tours PNG Eco-Adventure Tours (Mt Lagoon) 269 (Jacquinot Bay) 224 Tugutugu Guesthouse (Karkar Tulip Guesthouse (Bau) 138 Chris Karis (Wewak) 192 Hagen) 165 Wilderness Lodge (Marovo Pisiua Guesthouse (Jacquinot Island) 151 Unu Guesthouse (Mt Unu) 138 Joseph Konai (Ambunti) 192 Trans Niugini Tours Lagoon) 269 Bay) 224 activities Wau Ecology Institute (Wau) 139 Steven Buku (Wewak) (Mt Hagen) 165 Zipolo Habu Resort (Vonavona activities Aquaventures PNG (Jais Aben) 142 activities 192 Lagoon) 265 Rapopo Dive (Kokopo) Momahi Tours (Lae) 131 WESTERN PROVINCE activities 215 MILNE BAY PROVINCE Village Development Trust (Lae) SIMBU PROVINCE accommodation Dive Gizo (Gizo) 271 tours accommodation 129 accommodation Bensbach Wildlife Lodge Solomon Dive Adventures (Marovo Kabaira Beach Hideaway Bweka Village Resort (Trobriand Wau Adventures (Wau) 139 Betty’s Place (Kegsugl) 163 (Bensbach) 208 Lagoon) 267 (Kabaira Bay) 221 Islands) 121 East Kegsugl Guesthouse (Kegsugl) Ekame Lodge (Kiunga) Uepi Island Resort (Marovo Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 112 NEW IRELAND 163 207 Lagoon) 267 EASTERN HIGHLANDS Napatana Lodge (Alotau) 112 PROVINCE PROVINCE Saidowai Guesthouse (Normanby accommodation accommodation Island) 118 Island Escapades (Tunung Island) PNG National Appropriate Ulumani Treetops Lodge 234 Technology Centre (Mt (Wagawaga) 114 Lissenung Island Resort (Lissenung Gahavisuka Provincial Village Birth Attendant Centre Island) 232 Park) 160 (Trobriand Islands) 121 Malom Guesthouse (Malom activities village) 236 ENGA PROVINCE Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 109 Mansava Adventure Lodge (Tsoi © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally accommodation Boto Island) 234 restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes Kumul Lodge (Mt Hagen) 169 MOROBE PROVINCE Nusa Island Retreat (Nusa Lik attractions accommodation Island) 232 only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to Kaip Village Lifestyle Model Bula Falls Guesthouse (Gwado Panafilla Village Guesthouse everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying (Kaip Village) 169 village) 136 (Bol) 236 the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’