Tasar Designer: F.D.Bethwaite, assisted by I.B.Bruce

Dimensions Length, Overall 14’10” 4.52m Length, Waterline 14’00” 4.27m Beam 5’9” 1.75m Hull Depth 2’½” 0.62m Sail Area: Main 90sq.ft. 8.36sq.m. Jib 33sq.ft. 3.07sq.m. Sailing the Tasar By Frank Bethwaite And Ian Bruce Introduction This manual has been written for the sole purpose of helping you to enjoy your Tasar to the fullest, regardless of your previous skills and experience. Section I shows you how to assemble and rig your Tasar. Section II deals with the basics of handling, sailing and maintaining your boat and is in tended primarily for those who have had limited experience with a light, planing sailboat. If you already have dinghy experience you will find Section II pretty simple stuff but we still recommend that you breeze through it as one or two points are peculiar to the Tasar. Once you and your crew are comfortable with the boat and confident in your ability to handle it afloat and ashore, it follows, inevitably, that you will seek to increase your knowledge because with it will come increased pleasure. In Section III we let you delve into the principles behind the evolution and design of the Tasar and, in particular, help you to more fully understand the importance of the over-rotating mast by reintroducing you to the basic aerodynamic principles of sails and sail shapes. Section IV is a detailed look at the upwind performance of the Tasar and the infinite control which can be exercised over the full spectrum of wind conditions. It is this capability that sets the Tasar completely apart from other boats and we have detailed what we believe to be the optimum settings for any given condition, together with the principles behind these settings. (In this section we deal only with sailing to wind ward.) Section V is similar to Section IV but is a detailed look at the same principles as they apply to sailing off the wind. ______Section I Assembly and rigging instructions vii Section II Basics of handling, sailing and maintenance 1 1 Sails, controls and the datum mark system 2 a) Downhauls – main and jib b) Outhaul – main only c) Sheets – main and jib d) Rotation lever e) Boom vang f) Battens g) Stay slides

2 Setting up for sailing 5 a) Hiking straps b) Hull trim c) Crew positions d) Centreboard e) Rudder f) Departing and returning

3 Learning to steer a planing hull 8 a) Steering for balance b) The balance position

4) Safety 9 a) Heaving to b) Shortening sail c) Righting after capsize d) Buoyancy

5) Maintenance and repairs 10 a) General care of hull and deck b) Fiberglass maintenance c) Centreboard and rudder d) Maintenance of mechanical parts e) Sails f) Storage

IV Section III Principles of design and aerodynamics 17 1 Principles of the Tasar rig 18 a) Evolution b) Role of the boom vang c) An introduction to “twist” d) The role of the traveler e) Summary of controls

2 Introduction to tufts and leech ribbons 21 a) Tufts b) Leech ribbons c) Location on Tasar

Section IV Sailing upwind 23 1 Sail shapes and flow patterns – to windward 24 a) Moderate airs b) Light airs c) Lift versus drag – the effect of waves d) Tuning - LIGHT AIRS (0-4 kts) e) Tuning - MODERATE AIRS (5-11 kts) f) Tuning - HEAVY AIRS (12 kts plus)

2 Sailing faster – to windward 27 a) In light airs b) In moderate airs c) In heavy airs – windward planing d) When to plane to windward e) In really heavy airs

Section V Sailing off the wind 33 1 Sail shapes and flow patterns – off the wind 34 a) Principles b) Tuning – CLOSE REACH c) Tuning – BROAD REACH d) Tuning – RUNNING SQUARE

2) Sailing faster – off the wind 35 a) Boom vang and leech tension b) Booming the jib c) Running square or tacking downwind d) Tuning – TACKING DOWNWIND e) Gybing in the lifts f) Wave riding

V ______

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VII 1. Place the hull, bow into wind, on its trailer, a soft surface, 4. Most roof racks are not quite wide enough to properly or a rigging board. We strongly recommend making a rigging transport a Tasar. This shows a rigging board with two board; it is simple and inexpensive and greatly simplifies wooden strips screwed onto the underside to position it over rigging and working on the boat. a roof rack. The padding has also been extended the full length of the board so that the boat can be put on from one The Tasar is an exceptionally light boat and side and slid across the rack. The boat is best supported on must never be left sitting on the ground or the flats of the side decks just behind the small bump where dock with the mast up and unsecured. Tie it the foredeck meets the side deck. down to something (a rigging board is best!) or it will blow over in a breeze.

5. To assemble the diamonds on the lower mast section, first untwist the wires, then insert the spreader tube, slip a 2. Note that the ropes from the rigging board are secured in washer on each side and push the cotter pins through the the cam cleats of the jib fairleads. holes in the tube. Bend over the cotter pins so they will not fall out. Note that the washers are between the cotter pins and the mast.

3. Use 2 x 4 for rigging board. Pad with carpet in the middle. 6. Using a piece of wood, plastic or well rounded metal (not a screwdriver!) push the wire all the way down into the plastic end-cap. It should “snap” into place. If for any reason it does not and stays loose, tape over the end of the plastic so that the wire cannot fall out when it goes slack. 10. Assemble the mast by first sliding the top section into the 7. You will find 2 screws in the bottom of the mast plug. lower section until the stainless steel metal tang is right Tighten these up evenly so that the mast is absolutely against the lower section. Take both ends of the halyard straight (check by sighting along boltrope groove.) (shackle and rope tail) and secure temporarily near the bot tom of the mast. This is done so that you don’t put the mast up and find you have left the halyard shackle at the top!

11. Place mast on deck with foot facing forward and leading edge up.

8. The cutaway drawing shows the internal working of the diamond adjuster.

12. If the boat is sheltered from the wind it is not necessary to pre-roll the jib. If, however, you are trying to rig in a windy spot have your crew take the other end of the jib and roll it into a fairly tight roll. It will be much easier to raise the mast with the jib roIled than to have it flapping in the wind. See fig. 9. Tighten the screws so that the upper wire just goes slack 18 below. when a 150-lb man puts his full weight in the middle of the lower mast when it is supported at each end. At this tension, the windward diamond wire will become slack when the boat is sailing with both crew hiking. The boat will not sail faster in any wind strength with the diamond wires either tighter or looser than this. depicted in the two photographs above. This is more fully 13. Attach the jib sheets with the shackle provided (use the explained in the sailing manual. hole second from the top to start with) and use one end to tie However, it is important to have several turns of the a loop around the rolled jib to prevent it from unfurling while line secured at all times. It is possible that, due to kinking raising the mast later. or other damage, a jib stay could break, and in the event of that happening, the jib luff attached to the furler by the downhaul will keep your mast up and allow you to sail home for repairs.

16. Without crossing the side stays take each one directly from the mast fitting (fig. 14) to the slides which are mounted in tracks on the gunwale of the boat. Make sure the slides 14. With the mast still lying on the deck, leading edge up, are all the way forward in the tracks. (The stay in the picture shackle the head of the jib to the swivel as shown. (The is being held up by hand to make clear the method of swivel should already be attached to the large shackle attachment.) between the two side stays.) Attach the large shackle to the hole in the mast fitting. (The mast has been removed from the boat for photographic purposes only.)

17. Lift the mast off the boat and place it vertically along side the boat. Do not place it on the ground if there is any

15. Move the foot of the mast to the side of the deck from which you will later raise it. Attach the tack of the jib to the furler drum as shown, making sure the loop in the wire as well as the small grommet in the webbing are both held by the pin. For the sake of clarity we have removed the jib luff tensioning cord (downhaul) which comes looped between the large grommet in the tack of the jib and the formed stainless steel thimble in the end of the luff wire. In simplest terms there should be no tension on this line in very light air and maximum tension in very heavy air as chance of getting sand or dirt in the pivot hole. Rather, place it on the top of your shoe as shown. 18. When the mast is steady and balanced, lower your grip 21. Slide both stays fully aft and lock in place with the spring and raise it straight up placing your strongest hand (right if plunger-stop provided. You will notice that the gun wale has right-handed!) under the base plug. been drilled out underneath one hole in the track. This is the aftermost position of the plunger.

19. Slide this hand onto the deck just forward of the mast pin. The mast won’t fall over in this position and you can now 22. Stay fully aft and plunger in position. take your time placing it over the pin with both hands. If the mast does not go over the pin it is because the stay slides 23. We have done an initial set-up at the factory, but, during are not all the way forward or there is a kink in one of the the first few hours of sailing in fresh winds, the stay wires will three wires holding up the mast. progressively bed into their thimbles etc., and the stay There is also the possibility that the pins in the adjustable adjusters as well as the diamonds must be re-set to chainplates on the end of the stays have been moved from compensate. Once this “bedding” is complete, no further the factory setting or — heaven forbid — wrongly placed at adjustment will be needed unless the wires are stretched the factory. Simply lengthen the stays equally by moving the (because their elastic limit has been exceeded). pins in the chainplates until the mast can slip over the pin. With the stays set up as in fig. 20 above, the leeward stay will become slack when the boat is hiked firmly. It will also be possible to raise the mast and slip it over the pivot pin with both stays and the jib attached, provided of course the slides are all the way forward in their tracks.

20. The tension of the stays should be set up so that, when one slider is fully aft, the side stays and forestay just become taut when the other slider is 3” to 4” forward from the fully-aft position as shown. Thus the final 3” to 4” of aft movement 24. Pass the jib sheets through the fairleads and place fully tensions the stays and forestay. figure-eight knots in their ends. Note that the rigging board ropes are still in the cleats. 25. The tension on the jib furler line should be sufficient to 27. To rig the boom vang, shackle the single block (which is keep the jib furled until tension is applied to the jib sheets to captive on the boom vang wire) to the boom as shown. unroll it. If there is not sufficient tension, take an extra turn around the small black cleat with the shockcord.

You will also note that the furler rope is hot-melt spliced in the middle. This is a tricky operation for the factory because if it is kept too long in the melted state the material becomes brittle and will subsequently crack and separate. Take a few 28. Thread the line through the blocks as shown; make sure minutes and pass a needle with whipping cord through the your boom vang is rigged the same way. rope on either side of the splice two or three times as shown in the sketch.

Note that the line goes to cleats on either side of the cockpit.

26. Place the boom on the gooseneck pin and push down. This should lock the boom under the plastic fitting. (Simply depress the fitting if you wish to lift the boom off.) Be sure not to lock the boom down before hoisting the main later on or you will not be able to raise the sail high enough to engage the halyard lock. If you do not have this fitting on your boat (early boats only) ask your dealer for one and install it with the self tapping screws provided. Note To Rigging Instruction Nov ’79 29. Attach the spliced loop in the mainsheet to the beckett 1. The fitting referred to in Paragraph 26 has proved to on the traveler block. Make sure the block is mounted in the be merely a nuisance. It was never fitted to fore-and-aft direction on the traveler car. Australian boats, and is now not fitted to overseas boats. 30. Rig the mainsheet as shown, starting from front to back through the double block hung from the boom. 33. Install the battens in the sail. Each batten has two end caps. The end cap with a small hole and a V-notch belongs at the leech of the sail; the other end should be inserted into the pocket. Ensure that this end of the batten fits snugly into the plastic protector fitted on the sail at the forward end of the pocket.

31. Install a traveler control line on each side of the thwart as shown. A figure-eight knot tied to the short end will stop the line from slipping through the eye. 34. To secure and tension the batten at the leech, start from one eyelet, pass the batten tie through the hole in the batten, through the other eyelet, then knot both ends of the tie across the notch in the end of the batten. Tension the tie until the sailcloth along the batten pocket just shows tension. The sail shape, type of cloth used, and the flexibility of the rig are all designed to use a “passive” batten in the sail. This means that extra tension applied to the batten will gain you nothing but rather destroy the ability of the sail to be used to its optimum in the full range of conditions under which the boat will normally be sailed.

The traveler lines are cleated using the cam cleats mounted on the side decks.

35. Notwithstanding the paragraph above, if vertical puckers appear near a batten while sailing, increase the tension on the batten tie until the puckers disappear. The tension on that batten will now be correct and should not need further 32. The first time you rig your boat, have your crew hold the adjustment regardless of wind conditions. end of the boom level to the ground and make sure the boom yang and mainsheet ropes are correctly reeved before hoisting the sail. 39. If you are on shore and can hoist the sail before putting 36. Attach the outhaul of the mainsail to the shackle at the the boat in the water, one person hoists the sail and the end of the boom. Make sure the wires are all running other guides it into the groove in the mast. A fully battened smoothly and are not kinked. mainsail is always a little hard to hoist, due to the presence of the stiff batten and the friction between the pocket protector and the back of the mast. After a while, you will find that it becomes easier, particularly if a little silicone spray or paraffin wax is applied to the bolt rope and the front of the batten pocket protectors.

37. Attach the tack of the sail to the boom at the forward end with a shackle.

It also helps if the mast is aligned exactly in the direction of the sail so that the batten protectors do not bind on the back of the mast. Make sure the boom vang is slack and not cleated.

38. Shackle the halyard to the headboard and start the bolt rope into the groove of the mast. (On most early boats the sail will have to be started into the groove before attaching the shackle. The halyard was made shorter so that the sail head would always stay attached to the mast when lowered.) Note that the mast rotation lever is lowered flat against the mast to permit easy access to the bolt rope groove. 40. When the sail is nearly at the top, lift the boom off the gooseneck pin; it helps if one person holds the boom up to take its weight off the sail. Loosen the vang, because if it is tight, it will hold down the end of the boom and raising the sail to the top will be impossible. 44. You will find the luff downhaul (cunningham) attached to the gooseneck fitting. Undo the end at the fitting, pass it 41. Hoist the sail until you can engage the small ball on the through the grommet (about 6” up the luff) and then back wire under the jaws of the hook (halyard lock). When this is down under the pin and knot it. done you can release the tension on the halyard and it will stay up under all conditions until you pull it down and out to release it. Push the boom back down on the gooseneck pin until it clips under the lock.

Finally rigged, it will look this way. All adjustments to either tighten or ease the tension on the luff of the sail can now be made at the black clam cleat below the gooseneck. 42. When the halyard is locked at the top of the mast, pass the loop of the shockcord under the small black hook and remove the rope tail completely.

45. Before going on the water, familiarize yourself with the operation of the mast rotation lever. The locknut holding it to the mast should be adjusted so that the lever can readily be 43. A useful method of carrying the halyard tail is to make a moved up and down but still stay in place when placed in the loop of shockcord around the centerboard capping. Use this normal up position as shown above in fig. 44. to carry a sponge for cleaning up the boat and carry your halyard tail under the capping between sponge and shock- cord. 49. If the mast does not stay rotated when close hauled it is probably because you do not have enough tension on the vang and/or mainsheet or you may have set up the mast with a bend in the lower section (see fig. 7). For more detailed discussion of the rotation of the rig, consult the sailing manual.

46. When sailing close hauled, the lever will be rotated 50. If it is necessary to launch the boat before hoisting the either to the left or right until the “ears” come up against the sail, first check that you have rudder, tiller, centreboard, plastic stop on the boom. When you are sailing on port tack whisker pole, paddle, life jackets, etc. aboard. the lever is rotated to starboard as shown in the photograph. The whisker pole should be stowed by putting one end through one of the large plastic loops on the back of the boom and hooking the other end into the shockcord (with knob attached) at the front of the boom.

47. Another view of the lever (Set as above) but seen from the other side (leeward side) of the boat. Check and tighten all inspection hatches. Tie a painter to the bow fitting which can be left in place while on the water. 51. The Tasar is very light and you should not try to step on the deck unless another person is already in the cockpit. When someone is in the cockpit the boat settles in the water on its designed lines and dockside stability increases enormously. The further back the person sits in the cockpit (and the heavier she/he is) the more stable the boat at the dock. 52. Before attempting to hoist the sail, it is suggested that you install the rudder and centreboard. It is not absolutely necessary to do things in this sequence but, once the sail is hoisted, the boom will probably swing from side to side in the wind (particularly so in a strong wind) and installation of these two items will be more difficult, not to mention the possibility of tripping over them on the cockpit floor.

48. When sailing on any other course (ie reaching or running), lower the lever slightly and rotate it even further. Then raise it and lock it behind the plastic stop as shown in these two photographs taken from opposite sides of the sail. This is important as the mast will usually flip out of rotation (only annoying, rather than anything else!) as soon as the mainsheet is eased for reaching. 53. Make sure you push the rudder all the way down until 55. The procedure for hoisting the mainsail is the same as the spring clip locks under the top gudgeon. Note that the on shore, however, one person sits on the deck with a leg on blade is in the up position requiring no depth of water. Do either side of the mast; the other person sits on the not install the tiller yet as it will only tend to catch the sail centreboard capping or thwart. The person on deck should while hoisting. hoist and the other guide the sail into the groove. In particularly windy conditions, the boat will be more stable at the dock with the heavier person in the cockpit, and not as shown in the picture!

To remove, simply depress the spring and lift.

56. When the sail is almost all the way hoisted, the person in the cockpit should assist by raising the entire boom to take its weight off the sail.

54. Make sure the carpet in the centreboard box is clean, dip the centreboard in water to lubricate it and insert into the box as shown making sure the cut-off corner at the top is forward. Put it down as far as you can as it will help prevent the boat rolling from side to side while hoisting the sail. If the 57. In order to put the ball into the halyard lock, use the water is very shallow, however, leave it out until you leave rotation lever to turn the mast at right angles to the person the dock as it will get in the way while hoisting. on deck. At this point the halyard lock will be directly over head. (Remember this also for lowering the sail — use the lever to make the halyard lock accessible and then re-align the mast with the sail so that it will come down smoothly.) Storing the sails

58. A hint for windy days. Pull the outhaul very tight to make sure the sail is completely flat. This greatly reduces the 61. The mainsail will normally be stored and carried fully tendency of the boom to flog from side to side. battened and rolled in a long sailbag. There is no reason why the boom and whisker pole should not remain attached to the mainsail.

Fold the sail at the second or third batten and roll down to the boom. Never roll the sail around the boom, (boom fittings mark or damage the sail).

59. Install the tiller, pull hard on the downhaul line (if the water is deep enough) and cleat. Use as much tension as you can so that the rudder is always maintained in the straight down position. If it swings up, steering will become more difficult; if it swings all the way back, almost impossible.

60. Untie the boat, step in gently, unfurl the jib and you’re off! Fully battened mainsails enjoy long racing lives — four to five seasons in windy and salty coastal conditions (Sydney, Australia) is normal, and up to double that in fresh water and lighter breezes. Jibs look “used” after about half this exposure. Should any batten be lost or damaged, replace it temporarily with an untapered batten of approximately the same stiffness as the other battens in the sail. (A timber batten will work satisfactorily as a temporary replacement.)

For storage other than overnight, release batten tension by springing the batten ties out of their notches. It is not necessary to untie them. Tension the ties by springing them back into their notches before next hoisting the sail (fig. 34).

62. For storage, roll the jib from the head downwards as shown above, It will then fit into its bag without folding and will unroll, ready for use, without creases. Never fold the jib across the window. Always dry the sails thoroughly before storing them. Sails When furling or unfurling the jib around the forestay it may stored wet can discolour with mildew, and prolonged moist be necessary to centre the rotation lever under the boom. storage can soften the stiff cloth of the jib. While it is not This is particularly true when the mast is over rotated as in essential to hose salt off sails (until the build-up becomes fig. 48. The swivel will bind at the top of the jib, locking it in objectionably stiff), salt-free sails will crease less, will be either the furled or unfurled position. faster in light winds, and will last longer.

Performance Sailcraft Printed in Canada Converted to Microsoft Word 2003 by Duncan Robertson, Sydney, NSW, Australia 25/08/2004 Section II Basics of handling, sailing and maintenance 1 Sails controls and the datum mark system Most of the controls were illustrated in the adjustment. It should be adjusted to a rigging instructions but we will now review them tightness that just removes the puckers when here and briefly explain their function. You will sailing upwind, closehauled (Fig.l) have noticed that, associated with most of the control systems, are a group of dots and chevrons. The mainsail on the other hand must be made of a more flexible material because it has to This is a datum mark system which has been adapt itself to the bending of a very flexible carefully worked out so that, even if you are mast, so in this case infinite control is completely unfamiliar with the boat, you will be provided within easy reach of the crew. Always able to set it up for any condition and therefore use only enough tension to remove the derive maximum pleasure from your boat. If you are wrinkles. a beginner, don't be mesmerized by the dots: Put everything at the two-dot position enjoy your boat As the wind lightens, reduce the tension and and forget about the dots until you are also, off the wind, further reduce the tension comfortable and confident and want to take the until the wrinkles just appear. This is the next step forward. When you get really good you optimum setting. The datum dots are read may even decide that the dots are not quite in the opposite the cringle in the sail. Reaching right place and nothing would please the designers positions are not shown and are not necessary more! if you follow the procedure above. The datum mark system is as follows:

a) Downhauls - main and jib Both the jib and the mainsail have luff downhauls (which are often referred to as cunningham" lines) and these are illustrated in paragraphs 15 and 44 of the rigging instructions, respectively. If you are wondering what they are for, they are there so that you can increase the tension on the luff s of these sails. As the wind increases, wrinkles and puckers will appear when the boat is Fig. 2 sailed close-hauled. The wrinkles will lie in a The three boats in Fig.2 are reaching with the direction running from the luff of the sail wind abeam. Number 139 and "No number" have towards the clew. eased their cunninghams until the wrinkles are just appearing. Number 235 is perhaps too tight - notice the fold at the tack. (Notice also the direction of the wrinkles - running towards the clew.) In the next photograph, Fig.3, these same 3 boats are now broad reaching (almost running) but have not further released the tension on their cunninghams. Vertical tension lines have now appeared similar to those in the overtensioned jib (Fig.l). However, since a batten won't wrinkle, the tension lines get thrown back diagonally between battens. The tip-off that the problem is over-tension is that the wrinkles do not run towards the clew but up and out toward the leech. Number 235 is the worst offender and it can be clearly seen that the cunningham eye is still firmly tensioned

Fig 1 Too much tension Not enough tension Correct tension These wrinkles Ware caused by the sail stretching as the wind increases and therefore, the stronger the wind the greater the tendency to wrinkle and the more tension you will need The luff of the jib is hard to get at while sailing so we have used a stiffer (yarn tempered) cloth which does not distort as much as "softer cloths and therefore does not need as much

Fig. 4

More tension on leech, More tension on foot, less on foot less on leech

Start with the leads attached to the second hole from the top (Fig.l3 of Rigging Instructions) and use this setting until you become more familiar with the boat and have had a chance to get into Sections III and IV The mainsheet controls the tension on the boom while the traveler control can be used to control the in-and-out movement of the boom Fig. 3 even after mainsheet tension is applied. It is b) Outhaul - main only suggested that the traveler lines be left cleated initially with the traveler car in the This control tensions or relaxes the foot" of the center of the track and that both the downward sail and in so doing makes the lower part of the tensioning of the boom and the in-and-out sail flatter or fuller. Generally speaking - the movement both be controlled by the mainsheet stronger the wind, the flatter the sail and, when alone as in any traditional sailboat. reaching, sails should be fuller than when sailing close-hauled. After you have sailed your boat for a while and read the more advanced sections of this manual, you will slowly find yourself more and more cleating the mainsheet and sailing completely with the traveler However, we believe you will be more comfortable at the start using only the mainsheet. d) Rotation lever This is used to rotate the mast from side to side in order to line up the leading edge of If you examine the data marks you will see that the mast with the sail as shown in the the three-dot (heavy air position) produces the diagram. The boat will sail with the lever in flattest sail and the broad-reaching setting, the any position but the performance and handling fullest sail. The small crimped sleeve that forms are dramatically improved when the lever is the loop in the outhaul wire is read against the properly rotated as per Figs.46, 47 & 48 of dot system. (In picture 27 of the rigging the Rigging Instructions. instructions the outhaul is set at the two-dot position.) When running dead before the wind return to the two-dot position. c) Sheets - main and jib The major controls that affect the mainsail and jib are, naturally, the sheets. The jib sheet passes through a fairlead that can only be adjusted in-and-out but not fore and-aft. The plunger should be put opposite the appropriate Fig. 5 data mark and in most conditions this will be all the way in at the two dot position, about halfway For close-hauled sailing, a "Normal" rotation out at the three dot position when it's really is generally used, with the nylon boom stop blowing and all the way outboard for all reaching. inside the cage (Fig.6a). For off-wind In very light to drifting conditions you will note sailing, "Full" rotation is applied by push that the position is quite far out and this will be explained later, after you have read Section III. Although fore-and-aft movement is not supplied, we provide the equivalent with a clewboard drilled with several holes (Fig.4). The lower you attach the jib sheets the tighter you make the foot of the sail relative to the leech (equivalent of moving the leads back). ing the lever and cage to the outside of the stop (Fig.6b), effectively locking the mast and boom in this position.

setting and enjoy yourself; later on you will find yourself experimenting while sailing upwind. No matter what setting you use upwind, always and in all conditions use the two-dot setting for reaching and running Any other setting Fig.6a Fig.6b Fig.6c will put unnecessary strain on the rig and "Normal" rota- "Full" rotation, Use loop of will not gain you any more speed or better tion, stop in- stop outside line for inter- side "ears" "ears" mediate angle, perperformance. We will go into more detailed if desired use of the vang in subsequent sections. Experienced skippers seldom use other than these two angles, but any intermediate (Fig. 6c) angle f) Battens may be attained by use of an appropriate loop of A final word about your fully battened line between lever and stop. mainsail. We can guarantee that, before you If you find that the mast is flipping out of have sailed your Tasar very long, you will be rotation, simply lock it in the fully rotated told by the experienced sailor that the batten position (see also paragraph 48 of the Rigging tension is the key to the performance of the Instructions) arid, after more experience and sail. This is just not true Most people who further reading, you will eventually discover why. have experience with full-length battens are Note: It will always flip out on a reach or run if from the catamaran classes and are sailing not locked. with very stiff masts that bend very little (relative to a Tasar) and they use the tension e) Boom vang on the ends of their battens to produce fuller or flatter sails (more or less curve) The vang serves two functions on the Tasar. Firstly, it is used to hold down the boom when the The Tasar rig is completely different. The mainsheet is released for reaching and running curve in the sail is controlled by how much (Figs.7&8) and secondly, it is used to induce bend bend is induced in an extremely flexible mast. into the mast for the purpose of flattening the The sail is specially cut to fit this bend and sail, (Fig.9). must be free to get flatter or fuller as the mast bends or straightens up. The batten is therefore "passive" in the sail, should only be tensioned enough to remove the wrinkles (Fig.35, Rigging Instructions), and its stiffness has

Fig.7 Reaching Fig.8 Reaching vang slack - boom rises, vang properly tensioned boat is hard to control

Like the other major controls, it is data- marked with the dots on the block lining up with the dots on the plastic tube. The boat can be sailed without the vang ever being adjusted. Just put it at the two-dot

been selected by the designer to complement the all light and moderate winds, the leeward stay sail shape in all conditions. If they were any may be slid forward: this enables the mast to stiffer it would be difficult to make the sail rotate more easily, and eliminates distortion 'full" enough in some conditions and, if they were of the mainsail across the tight leeward stay. more flexible, it would not be possible to get the Don't slide it too far or the forestay may go sail "flat" enough in other conditions. too slack for proper control of the jib. Boat 235 in Fig.2 could benefit from sliding the Therefore, if you put additional tension on the leeward stay forward as the stay is clearly battens, you will induce a shape into the sail distorting the sail. When running square or that it was not designed to take! What you have is tacking downwind in light and moderate airs, a superbly matched spar, sail and batten both stays may be slid all the way forward. combination which, when coupled with the control This allows the mast to rake forward slightly, system, allows you to achieve any shape you desire it allows the mast to rotate more easily and with one set of sails. The photograph of Fig.lO it allows the forestay and jib to belly shows a bottom batten with not enough tension to forward away from the mainsail to "catch more remove the wrinkles. air." g) Stay slides Always keep both stays right back in all strong winds and all gusty winds as letting For upwind sailing the stay slides should be kept them forward results in severe compression on fully back. However, when reaching in the mast and probably breakage If in doubt, keep them back! 2 Setting up for sailing a) Hiking straps with body horizontal whilst supported with a straight arm holding the handle. Your Tasar is designed to be sailed by men and women of normal stature without the use of a If you wish to test the strap length and there trapeze. This does not mean, however, that your is not enough wind, one member of the crew can body weight is not needed. In fact, just the go to leeward while the other hikes out to opposite is true. Without the trapeze, your windward and checks the length. Be sure and weight becomes very important (your combined put a knot in the line at the point where the weight is twice that of the boat!) and the boat strap is as long as you would ever want it to is therefore designed to provide the maximum in be. This way, if the line is accidentally comfort (and therefore efficiency) while hiking. uncleated you won't go for a swim! You will find, as you sail the boat more and more, that Although hiking is not essential for sailing, it you will have your traps much tighter upwind is good fun and good exercise and, as you will but will probably loosen them offwind to hike learn in the weeks ahead, the best way to enjoy with a straighter leg, thus keeping the your boat in a breeze. Unlike boats with keels, buttocks out of the water and making planing dinghies are sailed as upright as fore-and-aft movement in the boat much easier. possible at all times and, if they are heeling over, it is a sign that either you and your crew b) Hull trim are not hiked out or you are not sailing your boat as well as you might! More about that At hull speeds of less than one knot the hull later. should be heeled to leeward and trimmed "bow down" to reduce wetted area and enable gravity to help shape the jib. As hull speed increases, the boat should be brought upright and sailed absolutely upright at all speeds greater than about two knots. At hull speeds up to five knots, the bow should be immersed about one inch to one and a half inches, depending on crew weight - adjust crew position fore and aft until the bottom of the transom just skims the water. See Fig.l2. In about 10-12 knots of wind, this Tasar is being sailed flat with the bow correctly trimmed

fig 11 The most comfortable hiking attitude is that which has the knee midway between carling and gunwale, so that the calf lies against the carling and the thigh lies on the gunwale (Fig. 11) The hiking straps are individually adjustable from under the thwart and should be adjusted to the most comfortable length for this posture. The crew should also adjust the length of the hiking handles (by taking extra turns around the stays), until he or she can hike comfortably only infrequently, while the crew, who usually has one free hand, should move bodily whenever necessary to balance the fluctuating wind. Fig.14 shows the positions typically adopted by a skipper and crew in increasingly strong winds and on different points of sailing.

Fig. 12 At this trim the wake is quiet and shows a fine-grain turbulence. If the crew sit too far aft or if the boat is allowed to heel, it will sail more slowly, the wake becomes noisy, and Fig. 14 the wake develops a coarse grain. It is thus While the diagrams are self-evident, the easy to see, hear and feel these three following notes may be useful. Arrows on the indications when the boat is not in perfect diagrams indicate direction of movement, if trim. necessary. As wind strength increases, the boat moves onto Upwind In light airs the skipper will the plane. The bow rises slightly as the boat usually tend to "lounge" forward across the accelerates, and in flat water the boat planes thwart. In fluctuating puffs the outward and fastest with the bow low, almost touching the aft movement of the skipper's upper body water. In rough water it is proper to raise the automatically makes room behind the stay for bow a little more by moving aft; this deflects the crew. In moderate and fresh breezes the spray and increases stability but does not skipper should either sit on deck, or hike increase speed. See Fig.l3. Bow slightly raised, with thighs on gunwale, choosing which ever spray deflected under the crew, sailing fast and position demands the least frequent movement. flat Reaching The positions are generally similar. The apparent wind will normally be more variable, calling for more frequent, bigger and faster crew movements. In strong winds and rough water the crew should move aft and share the aft hiking strap with the skipper. Downwind The mistake most frequently observed is that the crew moves toward the center of the boat. The effect of this is to force the skipper towards the center also (to preserve balance) who then cannot steer properly be- cause he or she is on top of, instead of along- side, the tiller. In strong winds and rough water the crew should move aft of the thwart - to the point of sitting on the aft deck - but must always remain clear of the tiller arc. d) Centerboard

Fig 13 For running, reaching (and windward planing The Tasar sails fastest when it is guided which we discuss in a later section) i.e. for smoothly like a high speed auto or aircraft, and any coarse or rapid tiller movements will slow the boat. c) Crew positions The design of the Tasar deck, cockpit and thwart is based on the principle that the skipper, who has both hands in use, should change position all points of sailing except displacement head-towind and the skipper gets into the boat sailing to windward the centerboard should be putting down just enough board and rudder so "half-up with its top just below the vang. It that they do not touch bottom. The crew then will stay in this position by friction alone, gives the boat a starting push, jumps in, and and the boat may be tacked and gybed at will the skipper heads the boat on a reaching (Fig.l5) course parallel to the shore. As soon as the boat picks up speed it can be slowly headed up into the wind and the board and rudder moved to their full down position (Fig.18)

Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Centerboard in Centerboard down with half-up position hold-down line cleated For pointing - displacement sailing to windward Fig. 18 - the board should be "down", with the leading Leaving a lee shore edge vertical and right forward, and the hold-down line taut over the top (Fig.l6) When returning to a lee shore in strong winds, it is easiest to make the final approach by The centerboard can be moved easily, regardless turning into the wind and losing speed a of boat speed and wind strength, if the skipper little way offshore, lifting the centerboard sharply bears away, momentarily, to remove the out of its case, and drifting sideways and side load while the board is moved (Fig. 17) partly forwards the last few yards (Fig.l9).

This manoeuvre should be practiced by skipper and crew with the skipper counting one-two three as he pulls the tiller smartly to windward. e) Rudder For fastest sailing and the lightest and most responsive "feel", the rudder blade should be fully down - vertical - at all times except when moving away from or approaching shallow water. Fig. 19 For fast sailing, the rudder blade should be rigid in the rudder head. Tighten the pivot bolt Approaching a lee shore in a strong wind until the blade is just moveable by hand and, additionally, ensure that the blade is securely locked down before sailing at high speed - if the blade should swing backwards when the boat is moving fast, the tiller forces will increase so rapidly that you may have trouble in controlling the boat. f) Departing and returning The Tasar will sail upwind off a lee shore, or back to a weather shore, with no more than a foot of centerboard and rudder blade down, provided it is sailed free and kept moving. This makes it easy to launch and return without wading deeply, and without scraping the bottom with the foil tips. When sailing off a beach with the wind blowing onshore, the crew should hold the bow 3 Learning to steer a planing hull a) Steering for balance to windward. The skipper who, at this moment, bears away from habit will capsize his boat to The technique first learned by all sailors is windward. And the skipper who steers for to respond to heeling to leeward by luffing balance by luffing under the windward heeling the boat into the wind and, conversely, to rig, as the boat slows down, will enjoy respond to heeling to windward by bearing perfect control. away. This technique is correct, (provided that luffing or bearing away is done in a To steer for balance, the boat must roll the smooth, gentle manner) but it must be stressed proper way when turned. A Tasar sailing fast that it should only be used when sailing to with its centerboard down or "half-up" will windward close-hauled When a Tasar or any roll to the left when turned right as in other light sailboat is sailing fast off the Fig.20. This is exactly right for steering for wind precisely the opposite technique must be balance. But if the centerboard is pulled all used it must be "steered for balance'. the way up, when it is turned right, it will roll right (like a speedboat) in which case, The technique of steering for balance is steering for balance won't work. So when exactly the same as driving a car at high reaching or running really fast, never raise speed (Fig.20).. the centerboard above half-up. b) The balance position When broad reaching or running in any boat in strong winds, the mainsail should never be eased beyond the balance position. When the mainsail is sheeted closely, the boat will heel to leeward (Fig.2la) As sheet or traveler is eased and the upper mainsail trims approximately at right angles to the center line, a position will be reached at which the boat does not tend to heel either way - this is the balance position (Fig.21b). Broad reaching

If the car (boat) starts to roll over to the left, only by turning it to the left toward the direction of the roll will it be brought flat again. This is sometimes referred to as "steering the hull under the rig". The beauty of this technique is that the faster the car (boat) moves the more responsive it becomes to this form of steering and, in the case of the Tasar, the steadier and easier to keep upright A number of principles are involved; Steering for balance is dynamic control and depends upon speed. At low speed it is in-effective. At high speed, its control be- comes dominant. Conversely, if the reverse technique is applied at high speed, the result can be embarrassing. A classic exam- ple is when a lull is suddenly encountered during a high speed reach and the boat heels If the mainsail is eased further, the top of with an eased mainsail, any further easing of the sail will blow forward of the mast (even the mainsail can only result in the boat if the boom is still at right angles to the rolling forcefully to windward. center line) and the boat will heel strongly to windward (Fig.2lc) To sum up - when close-hauled or beam reaching in strong winds, the mainsail should be eased The consequence of this behaviour is that when in a gust. But when broad reaching or running broad reaching or running in strong winds, in strong winds, the mainsail should never be normal handling technique must be modified for eased in a gust. Instead the balance position proper control. A description will make this should be sought, the mainsail never eased clear. When a boat is close-hauled or beam beyond it, and the boat "steered for balance reaching, a strong gust will heel it to under the rig The stronger the wind and the leeward, and easing the mainsail eases the faster the boat sails, the more certain will heeling force and helps bring the boat be this method of control. upright. But when broad reaching or running 4 Safety a) Heaving to floating quite high in the water. For this reason two sets of hand holds are recessed If the clew of the jib is sheeted about a foot into the caning on either side of the boat. To to windward of the mast with the windward jib find the front one, slide your hand back along sheet, and the main sheeted loosely over the the side deck until you feel the cleat for the leeward gunwale, and the tiller held fully to traveler. The hand hold is directly inboard of leeward, the Tasar will lie still and quiet in this point. If you are too short to reach this the water, even in strong winds. Very restful far up, slide all the way to the back of the while awaiting the start, or between races, cockpit (which is much closer to the water) and safe during brief squalls. and you will find the second hand hold there. b) Shortening sail d) Buoyancy In strong winds the jib can be rolled up and The Tasar's hull and deck are bonded together the Tasar sails pleasantly under main alone in at the gunwhale and where the cockpit walls winds of 15-20 knots. From 20 knots upwards it meet the cockpit floor. These joints produce a can be sailed on jib alone but, when sailing huge, hollow, watertight shell which is close-hauled with jib alone, rake the tip of unsinkable as long as the hull and deck the centerboard as far forward as possible, surfaces are intact. In the case of flooding set the jib sheets wide, allow the boat to due to accidental damage, additional positive accelerate before pointing. Tack normally, and buoyancy is provided, firstly by the foam in ease the jib in severe gusts. the structure (200 lbs of flotation) and secondly by four additional tough, airtight c) Righting after capsize polyethylene containers (which are loose in The Tasar rights easily and with the cockpit the hull and occasionally heard moving around dry. The best method is: when the boat is turned over). These two sources of reserve buoyancy are enough to 1. The crew moves to the bow, and holds the float boat and crew in flooded conditions. forestay, in effect acting as a "sea anchor', and thus turning the capsized boat approximately head to wind. 2. The skipper rights the boat, and holds one stay. If the boat has inverted, the skipper should climb onto the hull near the bow (where he or she can get a grip); walk along the inverted gunwale to the centerboard area, and close the bailer (an open bailer can inflict a nasty cut). Light skippers should pull out the centerboard into its full down position. Stand on gunwale and pull back on the board. As the boat starts to come up, climb out on the centerboard for additional leverage and as it comes upright slip into the water and grasp the stay. If the boat has not inverted, and the skipper is in the water, it is only necessary to grasp the centerboard and pull downwards. It is not essential to climb onto the centerboard.

3. The crew then moves to the opposite stay. By moving quickly to the opposite stay, the crew ensures that if the boat is not exactly head to wind, there is always one person holding down whichever is the windward side, so the boat cannot blow over again. 4. Both climb in. In strong winds, it is safest if the crew member to leeward climbs in first. When the Tasar is righted the cockpit will be almost dry so the boat will be a) General care of hull and deck faster than an optically smooth surface and, in fact, it is now widely accepted that the The Tasar is designed to be a lively boat and trueness of a bottom (lack of undulations) is is therefore extremely light. Apart from a much more important factor. The trueness of providing exhilarating performance, this your Tasar hull is something we have worked on lightness also makes the boat very easy to very hard and it should remain that way handle on shore but does require the owner to indefinitely because of the unusually thick be conscious of the fact that the boat will construction (10-11 mm) which provides a very probably require a little more care than stiff and stable structure. traditionally built fiberglass boats. It should interest you to know that the The tremendous stiffness of the Tasar hull and thickness of the outside laminate of the hull deck is obtained by using a sandwich and deck has actually been made much thicker construction made up of a rigid PVC foam core than is structurally necessary, purely to with a very thin layer of fiberglass on each provide a tougher surface that is less side. On the outside of this sandwich there is susceptible to puncturing and denting while on also an additional thin layer of colored shore. Thickening up this layer, however, gelcoat (Fig.A). means adding weight, which in turn makes the boat harder to handle on shore and therefore the final thickness must be a compromise. In our case we have arrived at a compromise in favor of light weight and ease of handling but this means a little additional thought and care is required on the owner's part. Fiberglass is a strong and durable material requiring little care, but contrary to popular belief, it is not 'maintenance free". The Fig.A Hull and Deck construction ultra-violet rays of sunlight, moisture, and The only exceptions to this are the vertical the almost inevitable scratches, all can side walls of the cockpit which are not cored contribute to the deterioration of the gelcoat and the floor of the cockpit which has an and abnormal point loads on deck or hull can extra thick laminate on the inside plus a cause puncturing or denting, while a severe color coat mixed with a non-skid compound blow from a collision can produce a crack or (Figs.B and C) even a complete break in the laminate. Most of these problems can be prevented or avoided with a little care and by following a few simple "good sense" guidelines. 1. Use of a rigging board (with some form of additional padding at the transom) is the best, simplest, least expensive and most easily portable method of handling your boat. 2. If a rigging board is not available and you must put the Tasar down on the ground, then make sure the surface is absolutely free of pebbles, stones, nails, etc. The boat will always tilt over onto one side of the bottom or the other and this is when damage is most likely to occur. If for any reason the boat is resting on a poor surface then never, under any circumstances, step into it, as any object underneath is almost sure to dent (or even puncture) the outside skin, particularly in the area directly under your weight. This is annoying more than anything else as it is very unlikely that you would

Fig.C Cockpit floor construction The gelcoat on a Tasar is much thinner than normal because it contributes nothing to the structure of the boat - only color and weight. We have reduced this excess weight considerably but it is still 12-15% of the total weight of the hull and deck glued together but excluding centerboard case, thwart and fittings! Because of the thin gelcoat, it is almost impossible to have an absolutely mirror-like finish to the hull because the materials of construction underneath the gelcoat undergo a certain amount of shrinkage during the manufacturing process and this results in what the industry calls "print through" which in certain cases will even allow you to discern the weave pattern in the roving underneath. We have found absolutely no evidence to indicate that this surface is any slower or also puncture the inside skin and, since the your dealer Catalyst (hardener), sold at foam is a closed cell, the watertight hardware stores (MEK Peroxide - 60%) Wooden integrity of the boat will not be affected. spatula or coffee sticks Transparent tape, preferably one inch or wider Wet sandpaper, 3. If you want to work on your boat while on grade 400, 800 and 1000 (600 if 800 and 1000 shore, use a rigging board and place it not available) Sanding block - wood or hard directly under the mast, just at the forward rubber Bucket of water Polishing compound (any bulkhead as this is the strongest part of the good automotive finish polishing compound) keel. Make sure, also, that the transom is on the grass or something soft (See Fig.D). 1. Eliminate all loose gelcoat with chisel; only take off loose material then scrape the gelcoat on either side of the damaged area to form as long a bevel as possible in un- damaged gelcoat (See Fig.E).

4. Store the boat away from direct sunlight, or if this is not possible, a cover is a good investment. Two good coats of wax applied to a perfectly clean hull and deck will also help to inhibit sun fade. In addition to preserving 2. Sand area with dry sandpaper to provide the finish, it also makes subsequent cleaning rough surface, including the scraped, un- a very much easier task. damaged gelcoat all around. 5. Do not leave your boat permanently on any 3. Clean area thoroughly of dust and loose surface which would hold moisture against a particles. large area of the hull, eg sand, grass or a wet piece of carpet. 4. Put sufficient gelcoat in a paper cup and add 2 parts catalyst to 100 parts gelcoat. 6. Keep your boat clean. Rinse off sand, dirt That's about a quarter of a teaspoon to two and salt. Wash with soap or detergent (do not fluid ounces. Mix thoroughly with the wooden use an abrasive cleanser!), water and a medium coffee stick for at least two minutes. The soft bristle brush. For stubborn stains a catalyst sets off a chemical reaction which little xylol or acetone will do the trick. will progressively harden the gelcoat. If any Warning: Do not allow a pool of unevaporated part of the gelcoat has not come in con- tact acetone to stay in contact with the gelcoat with catalyst it will never harden The time for more than 30 seconds or so. required will vary with the ambient temperature and humidity, and the amount of b) Fiberglass maintenance catalyst in the gelcoat. The warmer it is, the Scratches in the gelcoat surface can often be faster the reaction. (Under 10°C (50°F) eliminated by wet sanding and subsequent reaction may be very slow and additional polishing of the sanded area. Deeper gouges or catalyst needed.) Let gelcoat sit in cup for cracks which leave the fiberglass exposed about 5 minutes to start reaction going. should be repaired as soon as possible. If you Warning Avoid catalyst contamination with wish to attempt the job yourself, your dealer other materials. Avoid catalyst contact with has small quantities of matching gelcoat and skin and clothing. Should this accidentally you'll find complete instructions below. The happen, flush with plenty of water. If eyes repair of holes or breaks in the laminate can are affected seek medical attention as soon as be done by your dealer or a reputable possible after immediate and prolonged fiberglass repair shop but is also not beyond flushing with water. most people's capability if the instructions 5. Apply gelcoat with wooden spatula or coffee included below are followed. stick until the area is evenly covered. Minor gelcoat repairs On horizontal surfaces: smooth out to a Scratches in the gelcoat surface can often be slightly raised surface over the entire area eliminated by wet sanding. Use 400 followed by (See Fig.F) 800 grade wet sandpaper wrapped around a On sloping or vertical surfaces: To keep the wooden block. If a dark-colored tinge begins gelcoat from dripping, cover small patches to appear, stop sanding; you are wearing with transparent tape or, for larger areas, through the gelcoat and getting too close to add a little talcum or baby powder to the the fiberglass laminate underneath. Polish the sanded area with a rubbing compound (available from hardware stores for cleaning and polishing cars). Deeper gouges and dents require filling with gelcoat. Done properly, these repairs are quick, simple and inexpensive, but please read these instructions carefully and completely before attempting any repairs Tools and materials required: Chisel Dry sandpaper, grade 60 or 80 Clean rags Paper cup or other non-metallic disposable container Gelcoat, available from consistency. This will lighten the color of the gelcoat slightly but makes the application much easier.

On lower edge of the gunwale: Put a strip of transparent tape below the patch first, then apply gelcoat and bend tape over patch (See Fig.G). Let gelcoat harden for 30 to 45 minutes.

Using any automotive fiberglass body filler or body patching compound, fill the hole to below the surface of the gelcoat as in Fig.I.

Fill the cup of leftover gelcoat with water and let it cool down completely before throwing it away. Catalyzed gelcoat in a large mass can generate enough heat to cause combustion and is a source of many "fiberglass fires. When the filler is hard scrape and roughen the entire area as the filler may have some wax on 6 Remove all the tape. If not covered with its surface which must be removed. tape, a thin layer which is only on the surface of the patch will still be tacky as Proceed as in the previous section to apply a gel- coat does not cure in the presence of final gelcoat patch. air. The rest should now be hard. Scrape off any tacky gelcoat with the chisel and start For larger holes it is desirable to replace san- ding with the 400 grade wet sandpaper the laminate; for a break or tear longer than dipped frequently in water; continue with 800 2" or a hole or crushed area bigger than a grade and finally 1000. If only 600 grade is silver dollar it is essential. available, use it with lots of water -- you First grind away and feather the laminate as will have to polish with compound a little in Fig.H (a circular disc on a drill is longer to obtain a perfect finish. Wrap the perfect) and remove all loose foam. Then sandpaper around a small wooden block when carefully remove any remaining foam until you fairing the patch into the hull or you will expose the laminate underneath (be careful not almost certainly sand a dent into the area all to cut it! (See Fig.J) Undercut the edges if around the patch! possible, then fill with body patch up to and slightly over the laminate (see Fig.J).

Check the patch constantly while sanding, if a dark-colored tinge appears, stop sanding. You are wearing through the gelcoat and getting too close to the fiberglass laminate underneath! 7 Polish the area with polishing compound and a clean rag. Laminate repairs in the sandwich areas For holes smaller than a 5-cent piece it is not necessary to re-fiberglass the hole. Cut away the broken glass and chisel away any Once the patch is hard regrind it to expose loose or crushed foam as in Fig.H and grind all the laminate as in Fig.K. Then cut two back gelcoat and laminate in a long bevel. pieces of one-ounce mat to a shape just smaller than the hole (Fig.L). Centerboard and rudder blade repairs The Tasar's polyurethane centerboard and rudder can be worked with normal woodworking tools. You should be aware however, that steel wire reinforcement runs the length of the components on each side and this reinforcement is only 1/32' (1 mm) below the surface. If damage occurs it should be treated as follows: Dents - Rub down the damaged area with Saturate the mat with fiberglass resin sandpaper or steel wool, ensuring that the (polyester resin) which has been catalyzed surface of the dented area is completely with hardener (same as used for gelcoat) in clean, without any gloss, before attempting to the proportion of % or about 10 drops to 2 place the filler. Any proprietory polyester fluid ounces. filler of any type used for auto bodywork may be used. Once filled and sanded smooth the (Both the mat and the resin should be area can be painted as outlined below. available at local hardware or automotive supply stores or from your dealer. In the Scratches - Generally, scratches will be event that the mat cannot be found, substitute treated similarly to dents. However, if the a 9-oz cloth. Don't be confused by the large scratches are deep enough to expose the steel difference in numbers - cloth and woven reinforcement, careful examination should be materials are quoted by the square yard, mats made to see if rusting has occurred. If this by the square foot! We recommend mat because is the case, cut back the polyurethane locally it is easier to grind and feather in the final to expose the rusted area and clean off steps and also bonds better than the cloth.) thoroughly with steel wool or emery cloth before applying the filler as above. When hardened, grind the edges until the gelcoat is just exposed and try not to grind Breakages - Breaks will not extend appreciably back down to the original laminate. Then sand into the reinforced area but will be limited the surface of the new fiberglass with rough to the leading and trailing edges. Cracks sandpaper to remove the thin layer of wax that should be filled with an epoxy glue and when will have formed on it (See Fig.M). this is set the surfaces can be restored as above. If the breakage results in a piece becoming detached, this may be glued back into place with epoxy glue, or, if lost and large, may be replaced with a piece of wood. If small the area can be filled with polyester filler. The area can then be planed and sanded to the original contours. Blisters - There is a remote chance that a few centerboards could blister up to several months after manufacture. If this occurs, the affected area should be planed flush, filled if you break through the bubble, and repainted as above. Finish off the job with gelcoat as previously explained. Painting - After repairs have been carried out, the repair should be lightly rubbed down c) Centerboard and rudder with sandpaper or steel wool to provide a key for the paint. Polyurethane based paints The Tasar's centerboard and rudder are should be used, giving at least one coat of manufactured from high-density self-skinning primer undercoat and one coat of gloss. polyurethane foam reinforced by a carefully constructed pattern of high-tensile steel A final rubbing down with fine cutting paste wires. This material is similar to wood in of the type sold for auto body finishing will weight and properties, but completely uniform blend the new paint into the surrounding area and without grain. and render the repair almost imperceptible. The surface can be bruised or scratched in d Maintenance of mechanical parts much the same way as wood while excessive strain or impact will cause it to crack. The best possible advice for keeping things However, cracks or scratches will not result working well is to keep them clean If you in deterioration of the polyurethane, as are sailing in salt water, try and always unlike wood or fiberglass, the material will rinse the boat well after sailing. A few hints not absorb water. follow on specific items. The polyurethane is table t temperatures between -40 C and 80 C (-40 F and 175 F) At lower temperatures it becomes more brittle and at high temperatures it will begin to soften and may warp. For this reason boards and rudders must never be left exposed to extreme heat while under any stress (in the trunk of a car or in direct sun) as they may take on a permanent set. Centerboard and rudder should be stored flat without any weight on them or better still, hang them from the wall to save space. 1. Jib furler swivels into the grooves on either side of the slider while working back and forth without any load. Lubrication should not be necessary but if you sail in salt water a really thorough rinse in 6. Traveler car warm fresh water every now and then will ensure smooth operation. The traveler car bearings are self-lubricating on their pins but the flat surfaces of the 2. Mast heel and pivot post small wheels are often in contact with the wide vertical surface of the track. spray a The plastic washer is sufficiently friction rag with silicone until damp and then wipe free but it is worth checking the heel plug in this surface occasionally. It's a little the area of the pivot hole to make sure the harder to do the front surface because of the aluminum has not been damaged by placing on narrow gap between track and thwart but it can the ground. If so, sand smooth and give a be done light spray with silicone to facilitate tacking the mast. 7. Blocks 3. Mast sleeve joint Do not ever try to lubricate your ball bearing blocks. Simply rinse them with fresh water. It is very important to keep this area clean They are self-cleaning and self-lubricating and in particular to rinse out any salt which and any lubricant will only serve to remains after capsizing. All parts have been eventually attract dust and grime and reduce anodized after fabrication to reduce the blocks' efficiency. corrosion, however, repeated sliding between the surfaces can wear away the anodizing. To 8. Mainsheet swivel cam help the situation, clean frequently and cover with a thin film of oil from an oily rag. This can sometimes stay wedged open due to too tight a through bolt or accumulation of salt, 4. Diamond adjusters sand or dust. Undo the two bolts and disassemble the cleat being careful not to A detail drawing of the adjusters is shown in lose the wire spring inside (and also the rigging section. To remove the diamonds, observing as you take it apart how the spring first loosen the bolt at the top of the is assembled!). Clean it and give a light diamond wires. This bolt is put together with spray of silicone, reassemble arid make sure a light adhesive and may require holding the that there is adequate bolt pressure to keep heads of the fasteners with vice-grips (mole the assembly together but not so much as to grips). Once the pin is removed, the heel plug jam the cam open. can be tapped out (it is held in by friction and diamond tension only) and the large nut 9. Mainsail bolt rope and batten protectors inside can be lubricated with a little light oil. At the same time clean out the recesses The full-length battens definitely make the in the heel plug and lightly oil the flat Tasar sail a little more difficult to hoist surfaces. than a conventional leech-battened main. The problem can be greatly alleviated by spraying 5. Stay adjusters the sail on both sides in the area where it joins the bolt rope and for the full length of You will find that there are many occasions the luff. A dry silicone spray is best because while sailing when you will want to pull back it will not "wet" the sail and then accumulate the stay slides after having released them dirt. Paraffin will work but, on a warm day it (covered in detail in the following sections) will literally "melt" into the fabric and from and the ability to do this depends on how well then on accumulate grit. In addition to they slide when under tension. It is possible spraying the sail, spray a rag with silicone to have them almost friction-free but since and wipe the back of the mast track in the this is a function of how much time you are area where the batten protectors touch the prepared to spend on them we do not undertake mast. If the mast is not absolutely in line it at the plant. with the sail while hoisting, these protectors We strongly recommend obtaining some grinding will bind. compound (auto valve grinding compound is One of the most difficult portions of the luff excellent and is already mixed with oil), rope to get into the track is the last 6 to 8 removing the stops from the ends of the inches because of the additional layer placed tracks, coating the groove in the slider with around the rope. This layer was added to the compound and then working the slide back reduce the possibility of the bolt rope being and forth while pulling up hard on it (a small pulled out of the track by a tight outhaul. piece of rope through the strap) at the same This extra layer has proved to be unnecessary angle as the shroud. Repeat this several times and if it is causing a problem, it can be with fresh compound, cleaning between each removed by your local sailmaker. application to check your progress. In order to make the sail more easy to hoist Finally, try and find some very fine paste to we moved the batten protectors farther away finish off the job such as silver rouge or from the bolt rope but, in very light air the even toothpaste in a pinch! Then clean the area thoroughly. We recommend alcohol (rubbing, denatured, methyl hydrate, etc) which is available at every druggist or hardware store. Finally spray with a thin layer of silicone and reassemble. If you have done the job right, the crew with a little help from the skipper will be able to set up the windward stay while closehauled! Keep the tracks very clean and respray with silicone from time to time directing the spray batten's weight will rotate the protector up against the mast and wrinkles will result as in Fig.N. The fix is to move the protector as close to the mast as you can while still being able to raise the sail.

3) Same as method 2 but use a very thick rubber band without the shackle as in Fig. We have found that it can be placed so that the forward edge is on the line of straight stitching just behind the bolt rope. 10. Clew outhaul sail slide Spray with silicone occasionally when there is no pressure on the slide so that the lubricant can be worked into the underside of the bolt rope track. 11. Rudderhead The rudder should be tight in the head yet still able to move to the up position if it hits an obstruction or when beaching the boat. 4) Cut a piece of softish rubber (tire inner If you are unable to tighten the bolt tube) and fold it until you have a thickness sufficiently undo it and remove the plastic which can just be wedged in between the lever bushing which is in two halves. Gently file and the mast fitting and still allow reassembly the end where contact takes place between the of the nut (see Fig.Q) two halves and check the thickness until you can tighten the bolt and apply the proper pressure to the blade. This is an area that must be constantly cleaned if you are sailing off a beach as sand is guaranteed to find its way between rudder and head The best form of lubrication is water and a well-sanded rudder 12. Rotation lever If you are having difficulty keeping your lever up, here are three fixes: 1) Disassemble the nut, check for any gouged metal in the contact area on either the lever or on the ears of the mast fitting and if necessary polish the area with emery cloth. Spray with a lubricant and reassemble. You can now tighten the nut very firmly and still e) Sails have easy movement of the lever. Furthermore add a second " nut and tighten down firmly on The sails are the engine of your Tasar and the first while preventing the first from they are the best engine we could produce tightening further. commercially. Made from the best quality materials available, cut by computer and built 2) A small 0-ring and shackle is available to rigid standards of accuracy and quality from your dealer and when assembled as shown they will last you a long time if you give in Fig.0 will hold the lever firmly in them proper care. The following are a few do's position. When lowering the sail, slide the and don't's. 0-ring forward of the bolt and the lever can be lowered. 1. Don't wad the sail into a tight bundle or stuff it hand-over-fist into its bag. Follow the instructions in the rigging manual and fold them properly. Don't let the jib flutter in the wind at the dock or on the beach. This weakens the stitching and breaks If you have access to a sewing machine make a down the resin coating. long bag that you can button around the furled jib and hoist up on the main halyard. It will 2. Don't wash the sail in hot water or in the prevent ultra-violet degradation of the cloth. washing machine. Don't try and iron out any wrinkles, it will destroy the cloth. If you 7. Never put your sails on a radiator or up wish to wash it, use a mild soap, a soft brush against any hot object. The cloth will deform and a two-hour soak in a tub. Don't allow and usually shrink, rendering the sail chemicals, oil, tar or paint to come in useless. contact with the sail. There is no known cure for a stained sail. 8. Inspect your sail from time to time and have a local sailmaker spruce it up if any 3. Don't store the sail for long periods while wear starts to appear. Prevention is cheap. it is wet. A weekend won't matter, even with salt on, but try and rinse with fresh water f) Storage and let dry once a week. Always dry out your boat before storing by 4. Avoid scratching and creasing the mylar opening all the inspection ports and drainage window. However, windows which have become holes. This is particularly important if you scratched or clouded can be restored to a live in cold climates because water left in certain extent by using a soft damp cloth and the hull will freeze, expand and often cause plexiglass cleaner. damage. Also, do not leave it outside on the ground under the snow; a light boat like the 5. Release the batten tension if you will not Tasar will be crushed by the melting snow in be using the sails for a few days. the spring. 6. If you leave the jib on the boat roll it the opposite way each time, particularly for long periods Section III Principles of design and aerodynamics 1 Principles of the Tasar rig a) Evolution smooth the airflow and thus created the modern overrotating rig (Fig.22). We then further The most significant advance in recent refined these mast shapes so that the wind would decades in the art of handling sailboats has follow more deeply curved sails, and thus again been the use of tufts and leech ribbons to substantially increased the power available from indicate, visually, the way wind flows over this rig. rigs. Four practical advantages quickly followed the introduction of tufts. In the earliest rigs (and still today in most stiff catamaran rigs) the mast would rotate First came the recognition of the essentially automatically as pressure on the sail would pull different sail shapes and airflow patterns the back of the mast across during a tack. which sail fastest in each wind strength and on each point of-sailing, both in flat water The final step was to work out a very flexible and in waves. rig, matched to sail and battens, that could be completely controlled by the crew to produce any The next step was the most important; a shape desired with one suit of sails while also tremendous increase in rig power and providing the ability to completely flatten the efficiency. mainsail to shed unwanted power in strong winds. While the flexibility of the mast is a key factor in the tremendous efficiency of the rig, it produces a second effect which is also highly desirable. Look up your mast on the windward side when the mast is rotated and you will notice that the top of the mast curves gently (cusps") up to windward and is held in a 'set" in that position. Conventional, non-rotating masts in dinghies are virtually uncontrollable above the jib hoist and fall off to leeward when they feel like it resulting in a loss of power. If the boat is a powerful boat with lots of sail, this "falling-off" is necessary as the wind increases and the trick is to find a mast that does it at the right time to match a particular crew weight. This is not easy as the right time in smooth water is not necessarily the right time in waves even though the wind velocity is the same In a Tasar, designed for use without trapeze and with a correspondingly small sail area, we want absolute control of the power and with this 'cusping" to windward of the mast we never "lose" the top off to leeward. Instead we use the boom vang to progressively flatten the sail thus reducing the power up there and then let the top of the sail fall away ("twist") until we are able to "stream" this part of the sail straight in line with the wind, all the while the mast remaining cusped to windward. Because of this "set" in the mast, it was therefore necessary to develop a manual method of rotating the mast, all of which is a long way of explaining why the Tasar mast does not tack itself automatically The boat you are sailing represents the state of the art today but its rig is the result of fifteen years of continuous development in the areas above. b) Role of the boom vang The key to the Tasar's ability to sail in almost all conditions lies in the crew's ability to produce a "fuller" or a "flatter" mainsail at

Tufts showed the turbulent areas behind conventional masts. We systematically developed mast shapes which, when rotated until they lined up with the sailcloth, would will. Flattening the mainsail however means To produce more twist and less fullness we bending the mast and there are two ways to do therefore use progressively more boom vang while it. One extreme is to pull down on the main- at the same time slackening the mainsheet. As we sheet only (vang slack) and the other extreme slacken the mainsheet, however, the boom will is to use only the vang (mainsheet slack) tend to go to leeward at the same time so we use Both flatten the sail because both bend the the traveler to pull the blocks on the car to mast, but the effect is quite different. weather until we return the boom to the vicinity of the center line. In Fig.24 we have exaggerated the angle of the mainsheet to demonstrate this. Finally, maximum twist and a flat sail is produced by full boom vang (three-dot), very little mainsheet tension and, again, traveler to windward. With the rig set up this way (Fig.24c), the top part of the sail will be flat and "streaming" like a flag, straight into the wind, thereby contributing practically no heeling force.

Fig.23a shows the mainsail being flattened with mainsheet only. It is obvious that the top of the mast is being pulled back by the leech of the sail only. However, when the exercise is repeated as in Fig.23b with vang alone, at least half of the applied force pushes the lower mast forward. Since the mast is fixed at the hounds, the top mast must move back part of the way due solely to this forward vang thrust at the deck. The other half of the vang tension is naturally transmitted to the leech and this leech tension produces the remaining bend in the top section. However, by using the vang alone we have now managed to flatten the sail with less leech tension than when using the mainsheet alone.

It should also be apparent from the two diagrams that bending with the vang also d) The role of the traveler produces more curvature (and therefore flattening the sail) in the lower mast area - The traveler allows you to control the in and out the area of the jib slot. position of the boom relative to the center line without having to touch the mainsheet. The boom vang, therefore, should be thought of as a method of controlling the fullness or (The Tasar is set up so that the traveler flatness of the mainsail - particularly the controls are immediately "to-hand" which suggests upper part - and if you have any doubts about that the traveler is a control that gets more use this try it on shore by changing the setting than the mainsheet.) from the two-dot to the three-dot setting and In a well sailed Tasar this is the case but, for observe the upper mainsail. most people, it takes a bit of time to get used, c) An introduction to "twist" to this practice and for this reason we suggested in the opening sections of the manual that the Twist is a term used to describe the traveler be left stationary and just the progressive falling away or opening" of the mainsheet be used. We suggest that you start to upper leech of a sail relative to the bottom. use the traveler more and more instead of the mainsheet, but start out doing so in moderate Note in the three diagrams that the boom is airs and work up to a breeze. still on the center line of the boat but the The Tasar is light, sailed without a trapeze and top is more and more "open" relative to the therefore reacts almost instantly to changes in bottom (Fig.24). Obviously the amount of wind strength. Unless the crew can compensate "twist" is a function of the amount of quickly for a sudden puff, the boat will heel tension applied to the leech and we have just over and speed, performance and pleasure are all seen in the paragraph on the boom vang that sacrificed. maximum leech tension and therefore minimum twist is obtained when tension is applied There are two ways to react to this puff with mainsheet alone and vang slack (Fig.23b) (after, of course, luffing slightly into the In practice, increasing twist is used in wind.') - either the mainsheet can be released increasing winds while at the same time decreasing the fullness. thus twisting off the top of the main or the traveler can be released which does not increase twist but, so to speak, opens the whole door. Both accomplish a righting effect but the traveler is quicker, more responsive and easier to operate. Far more importantly, however, if the main- sheet is released, even before the top of the sail twists off, the tension on the forestay will decrease and the jib luff will sag making the jib fuller at precisely the instant you want the jib to stay flat (Fig.25.)

1 Downhaul- eliminates diagonal wrinkles 2 Rotation Lever - aligns mast with sail To counteract this effect, the traveler is 3 Outhaul - controls fullness (camber) released instead of the mainsheet. For this of lower mainsail reason the Tasar is fitted with a carefully contoured traveler track that allows the boom 4 vang controls camber of upper to go out level, keeping a constant tension mainsail on the leech and therefore on the forestay 5 Main Traveler- controls mainsail angle (Fig. 26b) 6 and Mainsheet and twist 7 Jib Travelers- controls jib angle and 8 and Jib Sheets twist

(With the swivel block position fixed at (A), the track must be curved up at the ends to counteract the shortening of the distance between Blocks B and C or the action of easing the traveler will pull the boom down tightening the upper leech, Fig.26a). This method of spilling power is particularly suited to the Tasar which does not have an overlapping jib. Other classes of boats with large genoas are not able to use this method as effectively because releasing the traveler closes the slot between genoa and mainsail. e) Summary of controls

2 Introduction to tufts and leech ribbons 2. Main tufts - one on each side - one set high, one set low. 3. Leech ribbons - 3 already sewn to the sail at points shown on diagram.

The basic principles of tufts as applied to both jibs and mainsails are illustrated above and the effects shown can be created either by the heading of the boat or by the wrong NB. Positions for all tufts are punched into trimming of the sails. the jib and mainsail by the computer. Use the b) Leech ribbons tufts supplied in the number packet and attach at the points so marked. (This diagram is also on the number packet.)

C) Location of tufts and ribbons on Tasar 1. Jib tufts - one on each side, close to the luff. One set is high, one is low near the window.

Section IV Sailing to windward 1 Sail shapes and flow patterns - to windward a) Moderate airs properly for most of the time, will arrive first at the windward mark. If a sail is set correctly when sailing to windward, in a 5-9 knot breeze, the tufts and leech ribbons will all stream as in Fig. 31c. As the sheet is eased, the airflow begins to separate downstream from the mast on the windward surface of the sail, thus forming a separation bubble (Fig.31b). The more the sheet is eased, the bigger the bubble will grow (Fig.3la). As the aft edge of the bubble moves across a windward tuft, the tuft will agitate at random. When the aft edge of the bubble is aft of a windward tuft the tuft will reverse in the reversed airflow inside the bubble. The ideal is always to use the fullest sail Separation bubbles will similarly form on the setting at which the tufts and leech ribbons leeward surface of the sail if the sheet is pulled will remain streaming. In practise, this will in too far, (Figs.3ld & e) and their presence will call for about 10 - 11% when closehauled in similarly be indicated by the behaviour of the flat water. leeward tufts. b) Light airs When the apparent wind is less than about 4-5 knots, a different set of flow patterns occurs. The slower-moving air begins to behave like thick oil or syrup. Wind near the surface of the sail will slow down, lose momentum, and accumulate where it stops unless some force keeps it on the move. It turns out that near the leech of the sail, on the leeward side, is the place where the wind stops and accumulates. Fig.33a shows a sail with a 10% camber perfectly set in a 6-10 knot breeze. Fig.33b shows exactly the same sail, but in 4 knots or less. What has happened is that the air near the leech on the leeward side has stopped flowing off the sail. Instead, it has accumulated into a wedge of dead air xyz, and the main airflow pq is behaving as if the surface yz were the surface of the sail - so pg is not much curved and, therefore, there is not much suction. Additionally, the resistance of the sail its drag - has increased substantially because the drag of any sail is proportional to how much air it stops (consider a spinnaker). So the thicker the wedge across x-z, the less the sail will drive, and the more it will drag. Performance decreases disastrously. Note the key indication: both tufts are streaming, but the leech ribbon has fallen limp behind the leech This is called laminar separation. Making the sail fuller is disastrous, because the air just accumulates on the windward side as well. Fig.33c shows the end result: the flow lines pq and rs split around the whole wedge The sails shown in Fig.31 all have a depth of curve xyz, - neither flow line is much curved of 1 in 10, or a "10% camber", which means that the maximum depth in the sail is 10% of the distance between mast and leech, Fig.32. This is about right for sailing a Tasar close-hauled in flat water in winds stronger than 5 knots. If the sails are set too full, a separation bubble will form as in Fig.31b and the windward tufts will not stream smoothly until the sail is flattened correctly, (unless they are placed so far aft on the sail that they lie outside the bubble). Because separation bubbles cause substantial drag, a boat with its sails trimmed correctly, i.e. without any separation bubbles, will sail upwind fastest (in flat water). The great importance of tufts is their ability to indicate, instantly, the presence of any bubble, and what action to take to correct it. The boat with its tufts streaming so there is not much force at all, and the full Because, in light air, flatter sails can create sail buried inside the dead air is simply ignored more force than any fuller sails, it follows by the wind. The indications are a limp leech that the same flatter sail setting will be ribbon, and a limp forward windward tuft as well. correct for all points of sailing upwind crosswind and downwind Any fuller sail will give less thrust, and must be slower - (unless there are waves). The ideal is to use the fullest sail setting at which all tufts and leech ribbons will stream. In practice this will be about 7% camber. c) Lift versus drag - the effect of waves When sailing in flat water there is very little resistance to the movement of the boat through the water. This coupled with an extremely light boat with very fine lines means that we do not need a truck motor to do the job of moving a Ferrari. With less hull resistance much higher speeds should be attainable in these conditions and we at the same time want to sail the boat as close to the wind as possible. A flatter sail accomplishes both by reducing the angle of attack and considerably reducing the drag. A fuller (more powerful) sail in these conditions does not really accomplish anything because, as speed increases, the apparent wind moves forward and the full sail starts to luff, creating considerable drag. The fix would be to bear off but this reduces the overall speed upwind. In waves however, fuller sails will always be called for because waves affect performance in three ways. 1. Wave impact resistance The crest of a wave moves downwind faster than the trough. This gives rise to "wave impact resistance", as the bow meets each wave. A breaking crest increases this resistance. 2. Out-of-trim resistance Because the water surface is curved into crests and troughs, a boat balanced on a crest or spanning a trough, cannot float to its designed trim. In addition its own weight and momentum underway will cause it to pitch sometimes to its own rhythm and not that of the waves, and so it will cut deeply into the occasional on-coming wave - all of which will increase the "out-of-trim" resistance. 3. Reduction of aerodynamic force wave impact drag and out-of-trim drag both increase the resistance of the hull, and so call for fuller sails to create more power as the higher speeds of flat water sailing are not attainable. But Surprisingly, the fix is to make the sail a little more important still is the way wave action flatter (slow-flying creatures like moths, reduces the power available from the rig. butterflies and dragonflies all have flat wings). In Fig.33d the camber has been reduced to 7%. This When a boat sails to windward in waves, the flatter sail is able to shed the wedge of dead air, upper part of the rig "feels" a lighter wind the flow line pq follows the curve of the sail each time the masthead moves backwards. This again, and the result is that the flatter 7% sail reduction of apparent wind speed is (d) creates more force than the 10% sail (b) which, substantial, because as the bow lifts to each in turn, is better than the 15% sail (C), and the 7% wave: sail has much, much less drag because it stops no air. a. the boat is sailing "uphill" and so actually slows down. In light airs, sails cannot stand much angle before they stall, and the leech ribbons become all-important The leeward tuft and the 1eecribbon will usually collapse together, Fig.33e, when the sail is sheeted in too far. Light-air, flat-water sailing is essentially an exercise in keeping the leech ribbons alive Some crews who sail in predominantly light air areas fit leech ribbons to their jibs as well. b. the water of the wave crest is moving downwind the rig is adjusted and trimmed reasonably well at a respectable speed (about 2 knots in some 3 ft for sailing to windward in light air and flat waves) and so further reduces boat speed and thus water. reduces the strength of the apparent wind. Fastest Settings c. any breaking crest increases wave impact drag and further slows the boat, and Upper main camber 1/14 (7%)* d. the masthead is at this time swinging backwards Lower main camber 1/14 (7%)* All four components combine momentarily, to reduce Jib sheeting angle 17° the strength of the apparent wind once each wave Jib sheet tension very light cycle, and the force available from the sails during this momentary lull is greatly reduced. As Boom end position out over leeward the masthead sweeps forward, all the factors gunwale reverse but because sails always need two or three seconds in a new wind before they can generate Main sheet tension light their full power, the increased power potentially *Flat water only - use fuller sails in waves. available can never be attained because the buildup of power is always interrupted by the next wave. NB. It should be noted that the jib This is why boats need much fuller sails in waves: angle is well outboard, the boom is well out and the sails "feel" the effect of only a much lighter the vang has been highly tensioned to wind. produce a flat upper mainsail. All these are designed to "catch" the "fragile" Offwind the situation is completely different; wind and turn it gently without causing because the boat crosses each wave much more separation. slowly, there is enough time to sense and exploit the power from each period of increased wind. e) Tuning - MODERATE AIRS (5-il kts) "Two dot" settings In light airs and flat water, the sail shape shown in Fig.33d was demonstrated to give much better As the breeze increases through 4 knots and performance than any fuller sails. But the airflows laminar separation from the leeward sides of around the lee sides of sails in light airs are so the sails ceases to be a problem, it will be fragile that they cannot survive any "jiggling" due possible to point much higher. As the to waves or swell. adjustments are moved to Moderate Air settings (two 0dots), the jib sheeting angle will close Therefore, whenever the wave motion is significant, to 10 for higher pointing, the lower main will and big waves and swell are always be flattened behind the closed slot, (to avoid significant even in strong winds - shift backwind), the upper main will become fuller immediately to fuller sails, and ignore tufts and (for greater power), and the rig will then look ribbons if necessary. How much fuller the sails like Fig.35. If the boat is then steered and should be must then become solely a question of sheet tensions and main traveler position "feel" and how much "power" you need to get through adjusted so that all the tufts stream smoothly, the waves. d) Tuning - LIGHT AIRS (0-4 kts) "One dot" settings When the Downhaul, Outhaul, vang and Jib traveler are set at Light Air (one dot), the sail shapes approximately as in Fig.34 will

result. If the boat is then steered and the sails sheeted so that jib and mainsail tufts and the upper mainsail leech ribbons stream as in the "Correct" sketch, the crew can be confident that then the rig will be close to its optimum trim, If significant waves develop, and it is sailing to windward in moderate air and flat water. necessary to sail a little fuller to maintain speed, the jib traveler should be opened toward Fastest Settings the "three dot" setting of 14 - again only enough to achieve the speed desired. Not until Upper main camber 1/10 (lO%)* the wind reaches about 20 knots will the full Lower main camber 1/20 (5%)* "three dot" settings be necessary (Fig.36). (At this point boat should be planed to windward. Jib sheeting angle 10% See next section.) Jib sheet tension moderate, leave enough twist to match back of mainsail Boom angle between center line of boat and 2" to leeward of center line. Traveler will be to windward. Main sheet tension moderate, only enough twist to start the leech ribbons streaming off the upper mainsail. *Flat water only - in waves use fuller sails. f) Tuning - HEAVY AIRS (12 kts plus) "Three dot" settings Fastest Settings As the breeze exceeds the 9-11 knot range, the windward mainsail tufts will begin to agitate as upper main camber l0%-. 2% as wind the mainsail is eased to keep the boat upright. The increases vang should be tensioned a little toward the "three Lower main camber 5%-* 3% as wind dot" setting, to flatten the upper mainsail, but increases only just enough to restore smooth flow to the upper mainsail windward tuft. Jib sheeting angle 10%--p-14% as waves increase Similarly, the outhaul should be tensioned to Jib sheet tension substantial, twist to flatten the lower mainsail just enough to restore match main smooth flow to the lower mainsail windward tuft. (Often, an adjustment of only half an inch is sufficient) Boom angle from 0"-.24" off center line - ease traveler more as wind increases and in puffs

main sheet tension substantial, becoming moderate as more twist required in increasing wind NB. Control "Power" with vang: Tension for flatter upper main through gusts.

2 Sailing faster - to windward a) In light airs just on the point of agitating. Ensure that the upper jib slot is well open, and sheet the In light airs which are fluctuating between 1 main only as closely as will keep the upper and 4 knots and flat water, an accelerate then leech ribbons streaming. As the boat exploit technique can be used to windward. In accelerates, the sails will suddenly begin to apparent winds less than 4 or 5 knots, sails "pull" -when you feel this, sheet jib and main cannot develop much force, partly because the in smoothly towards their "Moderate Air" wind is so light and partly because the sails settings, and ease the vang for fullness and must be flattened for best power (because the power to the upper mainsail, and point as high slow-moving airflow is unable to remain as possible while retaining speed through that attached to the leeward surface of sails of puff. As soon as the puff dies, return to normal fullness) "Light Air" settings for best performance through the lull, and fastest acceleration At about 5 knots, a "trigger effect" happens, into the next puff. This is a "flat water and more deeply curved sails suddenly become only" game: it won't work in waves. efficient. The key idea is that if, in a 3 knot puff, the boat is accelerated close If you wish to roll tack, remember that a reaching to 2 knots or so, then the apparent chine hull cannot turn and roll at the same wind will become about 5 knots, the sails time. For the Tasar, the correct roll-tack start pulling hard, and the boat can then be technique is: "wound up" pointing well and moving fast, for as long as the puff lasts. The technique is to 1. Allow the boat to heel. sail the lulls with "Light Air" settings. At the onset of a puff, accelerate by sailing a 2. Roll it upright and commence the tack as it little full, so that the leeward jib tuft is approaches level. 3. Not until the tack is almost complete rapidly, and that from 7 knots upward it should the boat be encouraged to heel toward planes and accelerates freely. the new leeward side. "Hull speed" is always easy to recognize, 4. When the sail has filled, roll the boat because it is that speed at which the crest of upright. the first stern wave is exactly under the transom. Fig.38 shows how a crest observed at If you are moving well in light air, but an two feet forward of the transom shows that the approaching power boat wake looks like it is hull is sailing at 4 knots, and in this case, going to stop you, try: the boat should be sailed a little fuller for 1. Move far forward and allow the boat to heel more speed. At 5 knots, the crest is observed to leeward. This will minimize the hull exactly under the transom. At 5 knots, the crest has fallen three feet behind the movement due to the waves. transom, and the boat is beginning to sail 2. If possible turn parallel to the waves, "uphill" up its own bow wave, as the transom while they pass. sinks into the trough between bow and stern waves. (It is this effort needed to push the 3. Move the sliding stays forward, so that the hull "uphill" which causes the drag increase hull can move independently from the rig: this between 5 and 7 knots in Fig.37. So whenever allows the rig to stay steadier in the air, the skipper sees the crest behind the transom, and doesn't 'shake the wind out of the sail." the boat should be pointed a little higher to (This is useful for small waves only). control the speed to the desired 5 knots. In 4. As the waves pass, allow the boat to heel, flat water the wave crest is easy to see. In then, when the waves have passed and the sail broken water, when it's not so easy to see, has filled, roll the boat upright to restore precise control of speed is not so important. speed. If, in light winds and waves, you need extra power from the jib, ease the sliding stays forward enough to allow the forestay to sag -this will provide some extra fullness. While it is no part of racing, the boat can be moved by "sculling" with the rudder when approaching or departing a shore or dock in a flat calm. The rudder blade should be raised until it is nearly horizontal. Remember also, that the whisker pole can double as a paddle, a boat hook, a punt pole, or a depth probe, according to need. b) In moderate airs When sailing to windward in moderate air, "Hull Speed" and the "Design Wind" are both useful ideas which can provide a substantial competitive edge. Hull Speed A boat which points high but sails too slowly, and a boat which sails fast but points too low, will both fall behind a boat which selects the best compromise between speed and pointing angle. In the Tasar, it turns out that the best compromise in flat The Design Wind is that wind speed at which water and steady winds of 7-8 knots or more is the crew, hiking right out can lust keep the to sail it always at "Hull Speed" of 5 knots. boat upright without easing sails (about 9 knots for 300 lb crews and 10 knots for heavier crews). Except for very light air conditions, in flat water and wind strengths up to and including the Design Wind, the fastest technique to the windward mark is to steer the boat to maintain 5 knots, and to adjust the sails so that at this speed all four windward tufts are just streaming smoothly. The boat should be kept upright through the wind's fluctuations solely by body movement - by hiking. The sails should not be eased Whenever the wind strength exceeds the Design Wind, the object becomes to point as high as possible while still maintaining 5 knots.

Fig.37 shows how the Tasar hull will sail with little resistance up to its hull speed of 5 knots; how from 5-7 knots there is a transition range in which resistance increases This is best achieved by simultaneously We have already shown that a Tasar sails with luffing slightly and easing the main traveler little resistance up to its hull speed of 5 an inch or so. In practice, boat speed will be knots, that from 5-7 knots there is a rapid controlled by the traveler setting. Balance increase in resistance until over the 7-8 knot should be controlled by steering, luffing range the hull "pops" onto a plane and can slightly if heeled to leeward, and bearing again accelerate freely. (We include again a away slightly if heeled to windward. chart reproduced earlier in this section) In these conditions - up to the Design Wind -you will notice that, with the boom vang set at the two-dot position it is just slack when the boom is close-hauled. The reason by now should be clear - we want maximum power from the sail, which means full sails, which means a straight mast, which means a tight leech, which means maximum sheet tension -minimum vang If we assume a wind fluctuating between say 7 and 11 knots, (a very normal situation), then the fastest control sequence as the wind gusts and lulls will be: Wind 7 knots Hull at 5 knots, all tufts streaming, boom l"-2" to leeward of center line, crew hiking enough to keep boat upright. No vang tension. Wind 8-9 knots Crew hike right out to A glance at Fig.39 shows that speeds less than maintain boat upright. about 8 knots should be avoided. Fig.40 shows Nothing else changes. how the crest of the first stern wave is still Skipper points slightly an infallible (and zero cost) speedometer. A higher. planing boat forces the water downwards, thus creating the first wave trough, and at 8 knots Wind 10-11 knots Crew remain hiked the crest will follow 10 feet behind the right out. Skipper luffs slightly to keep boat transom. When the crest is 15 feet behind, the upright, and simultaneously eases traveler 1" hull is moving at 9 knots, and 20-21 feet to 2" to maintain 5 knots. All windward tufts indicates 10 knots etc. will now be agitating slightly. Wind 10-9 knots Crew remain hiked right out. Skipper progressively recovers traveler and bears away to keep boat upright, until all tufts are again streaming smoothly - at which point he stops bearing away. Wind 8-7 knots Crew progressively sit up, hiking only as necessary to keep boat upright. Skipper steers to maintain 5 knots with tufts streaming. All planing hulls have a similar curve with a In stronger fluctuating winds, the principles “hump" in it; their ability to plane upwind just described will still apply. However, the sails should be flattened with the vang so simply means generating enough driving power, that the tufts stream almost all the time, but while sailing close-hauled to take you "over some agitation during the gusts is normal the hump'. The principal difference between -otherwise the sails would have to be so flat the Tasar and other planing hulls is that the they would lack power in the lulls. Tasar's "hump" is a small one because, the lighter the boat the smaller the hump The When the gust/lull sequence is slow, the bigger the hump the more power is required to technique for fastest sailing is for the crew move you up onto a plane. However, since so to adjust the fullness of the upper mainsail, little of the force is in a forward direction with vang to each gust and lull. The when sailing close-hauled, very, very few adjustment can be made while hiking (with both dinghies, even with the use of a trapeze, can hands if necessary) and it often takes very carry enough power to get their weight up onto little movement to make a bouncing tuft lie a plane. back on the sail as the sail flattens. It's also tremendously satisfying c) In heavy airs - windward planing Let's now move on to perhaps the most exciting aspect of your Tasar's performance - its ability to "plane to windward" when the wind strength exceeds about 15 knots, (less for lighter crews or in flatter water). Not only is the boat capable of doing this - it must be planed to weather in heavy conditions So what's different about the Tasar? Firstly you to obtain adequate lift from the part weight. With an all-up sailing weight of remaining in the water. 170-175 lbs (including sails, spars, centerboard, rudder, tiller and sheets) the 7. Don't "steer-for-balance" when windward Tasar is, on average, a third lighter than planing, because the turn direction is not dinghies of comparable size (65% of a 470, 60% correct for windward technique. Sail on the of an International 14), so immediately starts jib tufts, keep the boat absolutely flat with off with a much flatter "hump' in its curve. the traveler (all the way to weather if necessary in a lull, all the way to leeward in Secondly, power. The designer developed a sail a gust) and keep up the speed because if you with a relatively low aspect ratio (short and try to point too close and fall off the plane wide as opposed to tall and thin) in order to you will slip sideways very quickly. Luff or keep the heeling moment low and then hung it bear away so gently and smoothly that the turn on a carefully shaped mast that is rotated to forces stay negligible. line up with the leading edge of the sail. The effect of this is to reduce dramatically the Fig.4l shows a Nova (sire of the Tasar) area of turbulence behind the mast to create planing to windward in the hands of its less drag and therefore more lift than can be designer in virtually flawless trim. Notice obtained from a similar, area of sail with the the following: stern wave at bottom left of same heeling moment hung on a conventional, picture about one boat length behind boat non-rotating mast. indicating speed of approx. 9 knots, top of main twisted well off, jib eased to match So - that's what's different - a usable twist in mainsail, traveler slightly to "power-to-weight ratio" well above your windward (it's mounted on the floor in the average dinghy. Nova), centerboard raised half way up and boat absolutely flat However there is still not enough power without the trapeze. A man and woman with 325 d) When to plane to windward lbs combined weight cannot, by hiking alone, generate enough power to either displace the 1. A Tasar can plane to windward at 8 knots in Tasar upwind effectively or pop it up onto a winds of about 10 to 12 knots, but in these plane unless they take the additional steps lighter winds, the boat's speed moves the outlined below. apparent wind adversely through 20 to 25 and the resulting pointing angle is so low that 1. Make sure the vang is as tight as possible the planing boat will fall behind a Tasar and release the mainsheet tension until the top being pointed at 5 knots. part of the sail streams dead downwind. This will have the effect of greatly reducing 2. At some wind speed in the 13-16 knots. the heeling forces on the boat. (Be sure the range, a Tasar which is planed to windward at outhaul is also fairly tight to flatten the 8 knots will just match a Tasar which is being lower part of the sail: two-dot setting in pointed higher and sailing at 5 knots. The 15-20 knots, three-dot over 20 knots.) heavier the crew, and the flatter the water, the sooner will it pay to plane. 2. Raise the centerboard until it is half way up while still allowing the vang to clear 3. At all stronger wind speeds a Tasar which while tacking. Doing this also reduces the is planed will sail to windward faster than a heeling force on the boat and, in fact, if Tasar which is pointed, and the stronger the both skipper and crew continued to hike hard wind, the greater will be the difference in they would probably be half in the water with speed to windward in favor of the planing the boat slipping sideways as fast as it was boat. moving forward. Read on 4. In fluctuating winds, a Tasar should be 3. The jib fairlead should be about half way pointedat 5 knots in the lulls, and planed at to the three-dot setting in 15-18 knots and 8 knots in the gusts. (Use an intermediate, 24 on the three-dot at 20 knots. In addition, down, centerboard position). A Tasar which is it should be slightly eased to put a bit sailed at an intermediate 5-6 knot speed will of twist in the upper part (to parallel the fall behind both. twist in the mainsail) 5. Watch the wind shifts. A boat pointing 4. Using the traveler only (leave mainsheet lower and sailing faster will gain more from cleated) pull the boat offwind momentarily and correctly working the shifts than a boat get it planing cleanly at 8 to 10 knots. pointing higher and sailing more slowly, but When you have your speed, and only then, work will lose disastrously if it gets them wrong it back on the wind bringing the traveler back toward you slowly so that the boat stays level You will soon be close enough to the wind that the tufts on the jib can be used as you would normally do upwind (when both should stream aft).

5. Do not pinch the boat. SPEED IS ESSENTIAL. 6. It is the speed at which the boat is going through the water that makes this whole exercise possible Without getting deeply involved in theory, just remember the following: the amount of lift (resistance to sideways drift) that you get from a foil (centerboard) passing through the water is proportional to the velocity squared, i.e. at twice the speed, four times the lift Since you have pulled half your board out of the water, it is only this increase in speed that allows e) Tuning - windward planing healthy bend in the lower mast and very tight diamonds will reduce this bend. It will make the Typical settings for windward planing in 15-20 boat difficult to sail in a good breeze and not knots are: have much effect in moderate airs. Centerboard half up Downhaul heavy air (three dots) Rotation normal for heavier crews and/or flatter water full for lighter crews and/or rougher water (Mainsail more twisted) Outhaul moderate air (two dots) for about 5% camber in lower mainsail Vang heavy air (three dots) for flat upper mainsail Jib sheeting angles 10 for heavier crews and flatter water 14° for lighter crews and rougher water Jib sheet tension eased slightly for open slot Boom angle use traveler extensively to keep boat level Mainsheet tension eased so upper leech is streaming and sail is well twisted. f) In really heavy airs We have been speaking about planing to weather in the 15 to 20 knot range. What about 20 to 30? All the principles still apply but, because of the greater wind strength, we now must also reduce the heeling force from the lower part of the sail. Believe it or not, the way this is done is to reduce twist by letting the traveler go to leeward and then increasing the tension in the main sheet so that the upper mainsail stays at the same angle of attack while the lower mainsail ends up almost directly underneath it with a similar angle of attack (there will always be some twist!). See Fig.42b and compare with Fig.42a. At the same time, move the jib fairlead further toward the gunwale. This is necessary because opening up the lower mainsail will tend to close the slot.

A final word about diamond tension. Do not make the mistake of thinking that tight diamonds will give you more power. The sail is cut for a Section V Sailing off the wind 1 Sail shapes and flow patterns - off the wind a) Principles When reaching, it is maximum thrust which is important, and here the leech ribbons come into their own. Fig.43a shows a sail sheeted so that the leech ribbon is still streaming off the leech, but only just. The flow line pq curves around the leeward side of the sail and contributes a substantial suction force to the thrust which is at its maximum at this setting - leech ribbon streaming, but on the point of collapse. What about the drag? The drag is greatly increased but it is not working against the direction of the boat - only against the hiking power of the crew

In light air and flat water, as soon as the leech ribbons won't stream, revert to "one dot" settings to flatten the mainsail. Fastest settings Upper main camber 1/8 (12%) Lower main camber 1/8 (12%) Jib sheeting angle 20% vang tension Two dot In Fig.43b the sail has been sheeted in so far that c) Tuning - BROAD REACH the airflow has separated from the leeward side of Settings the sail. The leech ribbon has collapsed behind the leech. The flow line pq is now blowing straight "Broad Reach" settings give a yet fuller downwind, not attempting to follow the sail's curve mainsail. When the apparent wind is on, or aft at all. If there is no curve there can be no of, the beam, the boat will sail fastest when suction, so the total thrust from the sail has the leech ribbons usually stream but decreased substantially. This sail is said to be occasionally agitate. Adjust twist with vang stalled. until the upper ribbons agitate simultaneously with the lower ribbon. (If the uppers agitate b) Tuning - CLOSE REACH first, ease vang: if they lag, tension vang.) Settings In light air and flat water, as soon as the The "Close Reach" settings should be used when off leech ribbons won't stream, revert to one-dot the wind, but with the apparent wind forward of the settings to flatten the mainsail. beam. The boat will sail fastest when sheeted so that the leeward tufts usually stream but occasionally agitate (Fig.44). Off the wind, the vang is used only to control mainsail twist. The close reach settings will give a fuller lower and upper main, and increased rotation of the mast will keep the mast aligned with the fuller sail. The jib sheet travelers will be open for the widest possible sheeting angle. The centerboard should be raised "half up".

d) Tuning - RUNNING SQUARE "Two dot" settings When Running Square (Fig.46) the wind is no longer flowing across the rig, and tufts and leech ribbons are useless. When Running Square, use two-dot settings, except that full rotation (to keep the mast locked in rotation the proper way) will be more convenient. Never use severe vang tension downwind in strong winds. The two-dot setting will always be adequate.

Fastest settings Upper main camber 1/7 (15%) Lower main camber 1/7 (15%) Jib angle 20% vang Two dot 2 Sailing faster –off the wind a) Boom vang and leech tension In virtually all conditions, the lightness of the hull and the ease with which it cuts through the water and then jumps onto a plane means that we can handle, and in fact want, as much power as possible from the rig. We now know that this is obtained with a straight mast and a tight leech to produce the fullest sail. With the vang set at the two-dot position, the mast will be straight but there will be enough tension on the boom to hold the leech tight. Increasing the tension on the vang will not tighten the leech anymore (it is already tight) but will only bend the mast, flatten the sail and, when sailing dead downwind, put unnecessary strain on the whole rig.

In the event that the two-dot position should become overpowering, the crew should release the c) Running square or tacking downwind tension slightly at which point the leech will start to twist off. However, never let the upper The fastest way to the downwind mark will mainsail get beyond the "balance position; trim in combine four factors: the boom to compensate. Running square or tacking downwind Sailing the b) Booming the jib "Headers" Wave riding Sailing the "Channels" If we assume flat water and a steady wind, A refinement for extra speed when beam reaching or there are two ways to run downwind. The first broad reaching in stronger winds is to boom the is to set the boom almost square on one side, jib to leeward (this is permissible in the Tasar and the jib on the other, and head straight Class Rules). The method is shown in Fig.47 downwind. Handled this way, the Tasar will sail at the speeds given in curve A, Fig.48.

While this is the most direct way to the downwind mark, it is not usually the fastest. The reason is that a sail, running square, can only develop pressure on its windward surface, and there is no suction to leeward, because the sail is completely stalled. But when the boat is luffed onto a broad reach, the wind flowing across the sail can then benefit from both the pressure on its windward surface, plus the substantial suction on its leeward surface. The drive force then exerted is Correct (Tufts and ribbons stream, but typically about double the force available on a sometimes agitated) Adjust upper main with square run, so the boat will sail faster, and if sheet and/or vang until main leech ribbons the extra speed more than makes up for the extra stream or collapse at same time as jib tufts, distance sailed, you're ahead. then steer for streaming with occasional agitation. d) Tuning - TACKING DOWNWIND ) Settings Note: Tufts near jib luff now act like leech ribbons. Tacking Downwind uses Broad Reach settings, but with the jib set to windward on its whisker pole, fairleads out, and sheeted tightly enough to keep the leech firm so that the upper and lower leeward tufts stream simultaneously. Since the flow over the jib is now reversed from normal, the tufts near the luff now act like leech ribbons. The boat will sail fastest if it is steered so that the leeward jib tuft (now a leech ribbon) usually streams but occasionally agitates, and the angle of the upper main- sail is adjusted with vang, so that the upper leech ribbons stream and agitate simultaneously with the jib tufts. This will achieve the greatest power possible from the whole rig.

Luff no more than is necessary to make the tufts and ribbons stream. As the wind blows across the Fastest settings sails, the boat will accelerate, the apparent wind Upper main camber 1/7 (15%) will move ahead and it will be possible to bear away several degrees and still maintain the Lower main camber 1/7 (15%) cross-flow indicated by the streaming tufts and ribbons. The final heading will be about 20 from This technique calls for the boat to be sailed directly downwind. downwind responding to each minor variation in the wind exactly as when sailing to windward. In light air and flat water, as soon as the leech Gybe through about 40 from time to time to ribbons won't stream, revert to one dot settings reach the downwind mark. See section e. to flatten the mainsail. When it is handled this way, the Tasar will Note: Never use severe vang tension down- approach the downwind mark at the speeds given in curve B, Fig.48. wind in strong winds. Always use two-dot setting In practice, when tacking downwind in light airs, the boat will sail fastest with the leeward stay slid forward, the boom far out, vang slack, and the upper leech well forward of is that there are just as many shifts downwind the mast. As the wind increases, maximum speed as upwind. will be maintained if the mainsail is trimmed progressively towards the balance position, and at A boat tacking downwind is also immune from all wind speeds stronger than about 12 knots the cover, if for no better reason than that a gybe balance position will be fastest. (Both stays will put the coverer in your wake. So, with the back, vang firm but not tight, upper mainsail at extreme maneuverability of whisker pole and no right angles to the center line, and boom aft as spinnaker, the technique of tacking downwind far as necessary to achieve this.) spells the end of dreary processions to the downwind mark. Instead the Tasar skipper can Several points emerge from Fig.48. First in a tack away, sailing fast, escaping cover, and steady wind and flat water, the Tasar tacked looking for favorable shifts and channels and downwind should always beat the Tasar which runs waves. So sailing your Tasar downwind will square. Secondly, the Tasar which runs square reward wit and skill, just as much as sailing benefits from only one "kink" in its speed curve - it to windward. it needs winds of 16 knots or more to plane the boat cleanly at speeds of 7 knots or more. Third, (Often there are channels of stronger and the tacking boat benefits from two kinks of its lighter wind every few hundred yards, aligned speed curve. When the wind speed exceeds about 7 up and down wind. A boat which finds and tacks knots, the apparent wind exceeds 3 knots and back and forth within a channel will sail laminar separation ceases to be a problem and the downwind faster than any other boat.) sails can push harder. As soon as the wind exceeds f) Wave riding 12 knots, the boat begins to plane fast and cleanly. Fig.48 indicates that in most winds a boat will run downwind at about half the wind speed. The e) Gybing in the lifts waves will therefore usually be traveling a In Fig.50 A, B and C are three Tasars al tacking little faster than the boat, and it is possible downwind on starboard tack at 20 to the wind with skill to "catch" wave after wave and be which, let's say, is initially blowing directly carried along with each one, riding its forward towards the leeward mark. All tufts and ribbons face like a surfboard, and thus substantially are streaming. At point 2 there is a 10 shift increasing average speed. However, as the Tasar which 'lifts" all three boats. Boat A notices that "loses" the previous wave, its speed will her tufts have collapsed (i.e. the sails have reduce sharply as the bow rises and the boat stalled), gybes onto port and gets her tufts lies "uphill" on the retreating "back" of the flowing again. B does not notice the shift and last wave. The technique, therefore, is not to sails on with sails stalled. stay on the face of the wave until you lose it completely but rather, before this happens, the boat should be luffed smoothly but quickly to avoid sailing in the "uphill" water where too much speed is lost. Every effort should be made to maintain speed; sitting out hard and a couple of quick "pumps" on the mainsheet can achieve wonders, and are all legal. It is at this instant, whilst the boat is more crosswind, and therefore reaching, that the maximum effort should be made to accelerate quickly. The boat can then be turned smoothly downwind as the next wave begins to lift the stern. A couple of final smooth powerful "pumps" at this instant will match boat speed with wave speed well enough for the wave to pick up the boat and carry it for whatever distance that wave is good for. All of the above discussion also applies to a boat on a reach with the exception that you are closer to the wind so speeds are higher on the "downhill" side of the wave. Once again -do not try to "milk" the wave for all its worth; while you still have maximum speed luff slowly, hiking hard, and traverse across the downhill side of the wave until you pick up the next crest and once again bear off on that one for maximum speed. On most reaching legs you will find your course takes you below the mark as you go down the wave and above it as you traverse.

C, noticing her tufts stalled, luffs 10° to get her tufts streaming again. The net result is that A and C are now both sailing at the same speed, both sailing faster than B and A's course is0only 10 off the leeward mark and C's is 30 The moral