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Tasar Designer: F.D.Bethwaite, Assisted by I.B.Bruce

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Tasar Designer: F.D.Bethwaite, Assisted by I.B.Bruce Tasar Designer: F.D.Bethwaite, assisted by I.B.Bruce Dimensions Length, Overall 14’10” 4.52m Length, Waterline 14’00” 4.27m Beam 5’9” 1.75m Hull Depth 2’½” 0.62m Sail Area: Main 90sq.ft. 8.36sq.m. Jib 33sq.ft. 3.07sq.m. Sailing the Tasar By Frank Bethwaite And Ian Bruce Introduction This manual has been written for the sole purpose of helping you to enjoy your Tasar to the fullest, regardless of your previous skills and experience. Section I shows you how to assemble and rig your Tasar. Section II deals with the basics of handling, sailing and maintaining your boat and is in tended primarily for those who have had limited experience with a light, planing sailboat. If you already have dinghy experience you will find Section II pretty simple stuff but we still recommend that you breeze through it as one or two points are peculiar to the Tasar. Once you and your crew are comfortable with the boat and confident in your ability to handle it afloat and ashore, it follows, inevitably, that you will seek to increase your knowledge because with it will come increased pleasure. In Section III we let you delve into the principles behind the evolution and design of the Tasar and, in particular, help you to more fully understand the importance of the over-rotating mast by reintroducing you to the basic aerodynamic principles of sails and sail shapes. Section IV is a detailed look at the upwind performance of the Tasar and the infinite control which can be exercised over the full spectrum of wind conditions. It is this capability that sets the Tasar completely apart from other boats and we have detailed what we believe to be the optimum settings for any given condition, together with the principles behind these settings. (In this section we deal only with sailing to wind ward.) Section V is similar to Section IV but is a detailed look at the same principles as they apply to sailing off the wind. _______________________________________________________________________________ Section I Assembly and rigging instructions vii Section II Basics of handling, sailing and maintenance 1 1 Sails, controls and the datum mark system 2 a) Downhauls – main and jib b) Outhaul – main only c) Sheets – main and jib d) Rotation lever e) Boom vang f) Battens g) Stay slides 2 Setting up for sailing 5 a) Hiking straps b) Hull trim c) Crew positions d) Centreboard e) Rudder f) Departing and returning 3 Learning to steer a planing hull 8 a) Steering for balance b) The balance position 4) Safety 9 a) Heaving to b) Shortening sail c) Righting after capsize d) Buoyancy 5) Maintenance and repairs 10 a) General care of hull and deck b) Fiberglass maintenance c) Centreboard and rudder d) Maintenance of mechanical parts e) Sails f) Storage IV Section III Principles of design and aerodynamics 17 1 Principles of the Tasar rig 18 a) Evolution b) Role of the boom vang c) An introduction to “twist” d) The role of the traveler e) Summary of controls 2 Introduction to tufts and leech ribbons 21 a) Tufts b) Leech ribbons c) Location on Tasar Section IV Sailing upwind 23 1 Sail shapes and flow patterns – to windward 24 a) Moderate airs b) Light airs c) Lift versus drag – the effect of waves d) Tuning - LIGHT AIRS (0-4 kts) e) Tuning - MODERATE AIRS (5-11 kts) f) Tuning - HEAVY AIRS (12 kts plus) 2 Sailing faster – to windward 27 a) In light airs b) In moderate airs c) In heavy airs – windward planing d) When to plane to windward e) In really heavy airs Section V Sailing off the wind 33 1 Sail shapes and flow patterns – off the wind 34 a) Principles b) Tuning – CLOSE REACH c) Tuning – BROAD REACH d) Tuning – RUNNING SQUARE 2) Sailing faster – off the wind 35 a) Boom vang and leech tension b) Booming the jib c) Running square or tacking downwind d) Tuning – TACKING DOWNWIND e) Gybing in the lifts f) Wave riding V _______________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ VII 1. Place the hull, bow into wind, on its trailer, a soft surface, 4. Most roof racks are not quite wide enough to properly or a rigging board. We strongly recommend making a rigging transport a Tasar. This shows a rigging board with two board; it is simple and inexpensive and greatly simplifies wooden strips screwed onto the underside to position it over rigging and working on the boat. a roof rack. The padding has also been extended the full length of the board so that the boat can be put on from one The Tasar is an exceptionally light boat and side and slid across the rack. The boat is best supported on must never be left sitting on the ground or the flats of the side decks just behind the small bump where dock with the mast up and unsecured. Tie it the foredeck meets the side deck. down to something (a rigging board is best!) or it will blow over in a breeze. 5. To assemble the diamonds on the lower mast section, first untwist the wires, then insert the spreader tube, slip a 2. Note that the ropes from the rigging board are secured in washer on each side and push the cotter pins through the the cam cleats of the jib fairleads. holes in the tube. Bend over the cotter pins so they will not fall out. Note that the washers are between the cotter pins and the mast. 3. Use 2 x 4 for rigging board. Pad with carpet in the middle. 6. Using a piece of wood, plastic or well rounded metal (not a screwdriver!) push the wire all the way down into the plastic end-cap. It should “snap” into place. If for any reason it does not and stays loose, tape over the end of the plastic so that the wire cannot fall out when it goes slack. 10. Assemble the mast by first sliding the top section into the 7. You will find 2 screws in the bottom of the mast plug. lower section until the stainless steel metal tang is right Tighten these up evenly so that the mast is absolutely against the lower section. Take both ends of the halyard straight (check by sighting along boltrope groove.) (shackle and rope tail) and secure temporarily near the bot tom of the mast. This is done so that you don’t put the mast up and find you have left the halyard shackle at the top! 11. Place mast on deck with foot facing forward and leading edge up. 8. The cutaway drawing shows the internal working of the diamond adjuster. 12. If the boat is sheltered from the wind it is not necessary to pre-roll the jib. If, however, you are trying to rig in a windy spot have your crew take the other end of the jib and roll it into a fairly tight roll. It will be much easier to raise the mast with the jib roIled than to have it flapping in the wind. See fig. 9. Tighten the screws so that the upper wire just goes slack 18 below. when a 150-lb man puts his full weight in the middle of the lower mast when it is supported at each end. At this tension, the windward diamond wire will become slack when the boat is sailing with both crew hiking. The boat will not sail faster in any wind strength with the diamond wires either tighter or looser than this. depicted in the two photographs above. This is more fully 13. Attach the jib sheets with the shackle provided (use the explained in the sailing manual. hole second from the top to start with) and use one end to tie However, it is important to have several turns of the a loop around the rolled jib to prevent it from unfurling while line secured at all times. It is possible that, due to kinking raising the mast later. or other damage, a jib stay could break, and in the event of that happening, the jib luff attached to the furler by the downhaul will keep your mast up and allow you to sail home for repairs. 16. Without crossing the side stays take each one directly from the mast fitting (fig. 14) to the slides which are mounted in tracks on the gunwale of the boat. Make sure the slides 14. With the mast still lying on the deck, leading edge up, are all the way forward in the tracks. (The stay in the picture shackle the head of the jib to the swivel as shown. (The is being held up by hand to make clear the method of swivel should already be attached to the large shackle attachment.) between the two side stays.) Attach the large shackle to the hole in the mast fitting. (The mast has been removed from the boat for photographic purposes only.) 17. Lift the mast off the boat and place it vertically along side the boat. Do not place it on the ground if there is any 15. Move the foot of the mast to the side of the deck from which you will later raise it. Attach the tack of the jib to the furler drum as shown, making sure the loop in the wire as well as the small grommet in the webbing are both held by the pin. For the sake of clarity we have removed the jib luff tensioning cord (downhaul) which comes looped between the large grommet in the tack of the jib and the formed stainless steel thimble in the end of the luff wire.
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