Vol. 5 No. 3 5 No. Vol.

Autum 2012 Autum

Autumn 2012 Vol. 5 No. 3

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Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Autumn 2012 Vol. 5 No. 3

Cover

White Symbolizes autumn. The symbolism originates from the traditional "five direc- tional colors" based on the ancient Chinese thought of wuxing, or ohaeng in Korean. The five colors were associated with seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. The cover design features gat, the fine horsehair hat for Korean men. For more stories about this, see p. 44.

KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website (http://English.cha.go.kr) and smart devices. 2 | 3

CHA News Vignettes Korean Folk Customs

East Asia’s First Neolithic Farm Site Found Hand-turned Millstone The National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage held a briefing on June 26 at A traditional Korean-style hand mill, called an excavation site assumed to be the first Neolithic farm field ever found in East maetdol, typically consists of two flat, round Asia. Presumably dating to 3600-3000 B.C., the locale at Munam-ri, Goseong stones: a stationery bed stone and an upper County, Gangwon Province has yielded fragments of comb-patterned pottery, stone stone that has a vertical wooden handle arrowheads and a dwelling site. Further analysis of the findings is planned for more to spin it on a steel pivot, crushing grain. precise dating of the site, which shows more primitive traces than Bronze Age This ancient household item evolved from agricultural sites. grinding stones of earlier times.

A large wooden bowl or a gunny sack is CHA Signs MOU for Cooperation with ICCROM attached to the millstone. One holds the The Cultural Heritage Administration signed a memorandum of understanding handle with the right hand and rotates it for joint work with the International Center for the Study of the Preservation while pouring grain in the hole in the upper and Restoration of Cultural Property in Rome on May 18. The MOU calls for stone with the left hand. Sometimes, two cooperation on conservation, education, and training and research to expand persons such as a mother-in-law and her daughter-in-law, or a mother and her institutional and professional capacity in preservation of Asia-Pacific cultural child, work together, singing to keep the beat of their motion. Beyond the practical heritage. The CHA will establish a trust fund to undertake the cooperative projects. purpose of preparing food, the millstones thus helped strengthen emotional bonds between family members.

CHA to Host Conference on Community Involvement While electric blenders have replaced the traditional millstones at most homes The Cultural Heritage Administration and the UNESCO World Heritage Center nowadays, some farming households continue to use these simple old devices will host an international conference on community involvement in heritage to grind grains like buckwheat or beans in small quantities. The millstones were conservation on September 10-12. The conference will be held at Buyeo, an old ubiquitous everyday articles in the old days, which resulted in the popular idiom capital of the Baekje Kingdom, marking the 40th anniversary of the World Heritage “eocheoguni eopda,” which is still widely used to describe an utterly incredible Convention. They will seek ways to more actively incorporate communities in situation, like when one cannot find the handle (eocheoguni) on a millstone. decision-making and conservation activities. 4 | 5

Vol. 5 No. 3

Autumn 2012

CONTENTS

06 Pilgrimage to Buddhist Temples 24 Photo Gallery

The Land of Buddha in this World Fall Foliage Tour to Mt. Naejang A Stroll inside the Temple Grounds Nature Produces Vibrant Show of Colors

10 Special Report 32 Foreigner’s View

Crude Ceramic Bowls of Candles and Beeswax in Korean History Masterpieces Created by Nonchalance

14 Human Heritage 38 Korean Heritage in the World

The Most Revered King in Korean History Millennium-old Cultural Capitals Ruled over Golden Age Gyeongju of , Nara and Kyoto of Japan

20 Modern Heritage 44 Intangible Heritage

Jejungwon Revisited Fine Horsehair Hats Korea’s First Western Medical Institution Joseon Men’s Status Symbol Pilgrimage to Buddhist Temples 6 | 7

Past a series of gates that have neither door panels nor walls on either side, one The Land of Buddha in this World enters the inner temple grounds. From the four percussion instruments in the A Stroll inside the Temple Grounds bell pavilion to the stone pagodas and lanterns, the halls and the pavilions, the visitor will find all the basic components Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration of the blissful Land of the Buddha, each Photos by Eurocreon & Simong Agency with its unique and resonant symbolism, and then will eventually encounter the 2 3 Buddha and the Bodhisattvas enshrined in the dharma halls. As such, a temple is not a mere place where monks live and practice. It is a symbolic representation of Buddhist thought and cosmology.

The Four Musical Instruments The bell pavilion is usually found near the entrance to the inner temple grounds. The pavilion houses four 4 5 percussion instruments, or samul ― symbolized the eternal earthly presence 1. The Precious Hall of a temple bell, a dharma drum, a of the great teacher. Early Buddhist the Great Hero is the fish-shaped wooden clapper and a main hall at Yongjusa pagodas in Korea were built of wood in Hwaseong, Gyeonggi cloud-shaped gong. They symbolize but granite eventually became the Province. all sentient beings residing on earth, in primary material, whereas the Chinese 2. The temple bell (beom- heaven and hell, in water, and in the sky, jong) at Hongcheonsa in traditionally preferred brick pagodas . respectively. Playing these instruments and the Japanese favored wooden 3. The dharma drum means echoing the Buddha’s teachings pagodas. Compared with the pagodas (beopgo) at Geumsansa for all these creatures in the universe to in Gimje, North Jeolla in the neighboring countries, Korean Province. awaken their souls and thereby liberate pagodas are said to project sturdy them. At most temples the instruments 4. The fish-shaped wooden inner strength housed in a gentle outer clapper (mogeo) at Seo- are played to signify the morning and nunsa in Gochang, North appearance. Most pagodas typically evening services and major ceremonial Jeolla Province. have a square, hexagonal or octagonal- events. The bell is struck 28 times in the 5. The cloud-shaped gong shaped foundation, and have three, five, (unpan) at Hwabangsa in morning and 33 times in the evening seven or nine stories (sometimes ten Namhae, South Gyeong-­ sang Province. stories standing for ordinal perfection). Stone Pagodas and Lanterns This means the pagodas symbolize the A pagoda represents the Buddha’s harmony of heaven and earth, and yang presence. The first known Buddhist and yin, represented by odd and even pagoda in history was erected to numbers, respectively. A stone lantern ensconce the sarira from the cremated has the ritual role; it emits the light 1 remains of the historic Buddha; hence it of truth. A stone lantern standing in Pilgrimage to Buddhist Temples 8 | 9

revered in Korean folk beliefs and later or Yonghwajeon); the Hall of 8. Gilt-bronze Pensive Mai- accommodated by Buddhism, such as Bhaisajyaguru (Yaksajeon or treya (National Treasure No. 83) at the National the Mountain Spirit, the Seven Star Yurijeon); the Hall of Avalokitesvara Museum of Korea in Spirit and the King. (Gwaneumjeon or Wontongjeon); and Seoul. the Hall of Ksitigarbha (Jijangjeon or The Hall of the Great Hero Myeongbujeon). There are also the (Daeungjeon), enshrining Sakyamuni, Pavilion of Mountain Spirit (Sansingak), the historical Buddha, is the highest the Pavilion of Seven Star Spirit form of the dharma hall; it is the center (Chilseonggak), the Hall of Lonely Saint of not only a temple but also of the (Dokseonggak), or the Hall of Three 6 universe. The historical Buddha is Saints (Samseonggak), a combination 6. The Hall of the Great front of the Dharma Hall represents the called the Great Hero because he taught of the other three pavilions, all rooted in Hero and a stone pagoda wisdom of the Buddha lightening up the at Cheongamsa in Gim- how to overcome suffering and attain Korean native religions. 8 cheon, North Gyeongsang darkened minds of sentient beings. awakening to reach nirvana. The Hall of Province. the Great Hero usually has an image of Iconography in Sculpture and Painting index fingers of each hand touching one Dharma Halls and Pavilions Sakyamuni Buddha with two attendant another, the left palm turned inward and Sculpted or painted images of the Bodhisattvas: Manjusri, the Bodhisattva the right palm outward; bhumisparsha The dharma hall, or beopdang, is the Buddha or the Bodhisattvas are the of Wisdom; and Samantabhadra, mudra for calling upon the earth to centerpiece of a temple, where the centerpieces of the dharma halls. Some the Bodhisattva of Great Conduct. witness enlightenment by pointing to the Buddha resides along with his words. dharma halls enshrine a single image Some temples have the Precious Hall earth with the right hand, hanging over Generally regarded as the abode of a of the Buddha, but far more common is of the Great Hero (Daeungbojeon), the knee, palm inward, while placing statue of the Buddha, the hall carries a troika that features the main Buddha which has the Buddhas of the Three the left hand in the lap, palm upward; deeper meaning than an architectural flanked by two attendant Bodhisattvas. Realms: Sakyamuni of the present and vajra mudra for supreme wisdom, structure intended to house the Buddha’s The iconic images in the main dharma world; Bhaisajyaguru, the Medicine forming a fist with the right hand, index image. It is the hall of truth embodied in hall are generally in sitting postures, Buddha who resides in the Eastern extended upward, and the left hand also the Buddha and his teachings. but standing images are also found Paradise; and Amitabha, the Buddha making a fist and enclosing the index. occasionally, and more rarely those in of the Western Paradise. Sometimes, The beopdang in a narrow sense refers pensive position with one leg pendant. the halls with this name also have the A scroll painting often embellishes the 7. Stone Lantern (Na- to the main hall of a temple, and in Buddhas of the Three Times, that Each image has a mudra, or the gesture background of each image, depicting the tional Treasure No. 17) a little broader sense all of the of hands, corresponding to certain representative sermon delivered by the at Buseoksa in Yeongju, is, Dipankara of the past, 9. A Buddha triad is North Gyeongsang halls where the Buddha or the Sakyamuni of the present, aspects of the Buddhist teaching or to historical Buddha and other Buddhas enshrined in a dharma Province. Bodhisattvas are enshrined, the particular Buddha visualized. Among and the Bodhisattvas. hall, along with a scroll and Maitreya of the future. painting that depicts their but it also can include all of the Among other important temple the symbolic hand signs most frequently sermons. halls and pavilions in a temple halls are the Hall of Vairocana seen are the abhaya mudra for assuring that are considered places of (Birojeon), which is also protection, with the right hand raised to worship. More specifically, the called the Hall of Great Tranquil shoulder level with fingers extended and halls, or jeon, have the images of Light (Daejeokgwangjeon) or the the left palm turned outward at the waist the Buddha and the Bodhisattvas Hall of the Great Light of Wisdom level; dhyana mudra for meditation, constituting the authentic (Daegwangmyeongjeon); the Hall both hands resting in the lap, with the Buddhist pantheon, whereas of Amitabha (Geuknakjeon, back of the right hand placed on the the pavilions, or gak, are Muryangsujeon or palm of the other; dharmachakra mudra dedicated to important Mitajeon); the Hall of for turning the wheel of teaching, with 7 6 divinities traditionally Maitreya (Mireukjeon circles formed with the thumbs and 9 Special Report 10 | 11

Japanese have displayed a special passion for Korean pottery. This is Crude Ceramic Bowls of Joseon nothing strange, considering that as far as pottery was concerned, Korea was Masterpieces Created by Nonchalance the only country that could compete with China in ceramic production for a long time. Actually, around the 10th Text from Essentials of Korean Culture for Global Readers by Choi Joon-sik century, and Song were the only | Professor of Korean Studies, Ewha Womans University countries in the world that possessed Photos by Goodimage 2 the technology to produce and porcelain, the two most advanced create a sensation. In today’s jargon 1. Crude stoneware bowls, or maksabal, in different types of ceramic ware at the time. the bowls stirred up a “pottery hallyu” shapes and sizes. Goryeo made such excellent celadon in Japan. As a result, Japan has almost 2. “Kizaemon Ido,” a Korean products that even Chinese connoisseurs all of the top quality bowls of this type tea bowl made during cherished them as rare masterpieces. It while very few remain in Korea. As the 16th century Joseon Dynasty, is a national is thus natural that the Japanese loved the crude bowls from Korea became treasure of Japan. Korean pottery. enormously popular among Japanese tea masters, a Japanese potter is said to Pottery Hallyu Sweeps Japan have lamented, “I would be able to die with no regrets if I can make a single What I’m going to discuss here is not vessel like that.” A certain Japanese those high quality wares, though. I want man is known to have said, “I would to talk about the ordinary stoneware not mind dying now if I can touch such bowls, called maksabal, the prefix a vessel just once.” A tea connoisseur mak meaning “roughly made” just like declared he would not trade a Korean makgeolli, the traditional popular drink tea bowl for a whole castle. Another of Korean farmers. The predominant enthusiast bowed toward a tea bowl in view these days is that, humble and his possession, regarding it as a divine unpretentious as they are, the bowls vessel. deserve some other name with more respectful nuance because they were It is widely known that powerful in fact not so casually made. But I will Japanese leaders such as Oda Nobunaga keep the old name to avoid confusion. 3. A white porcelain bowl made during the late These bowls were given various names Joseon period. in Japan, of which ido chawan is most widely known. Unlike celadon or porcelain vessels, these “tea bowls” had many mysteries. They were certainly made by nameless potters of Joseon but failed to draw any particular attention before they began to be known in Japan 1 in the latter half of the 16th century to 3 Special Report 12 | 13

and Toyotomi Hideyoshi were crazy in Korea before they were carried to The crude stoneware bowls derived 6. A crude stoneware tea about Korean tea bowls. They presented Japan. Some believe they were used as from , the bluish-green bowl the bowls as gifts to their favorite rice bowls, and others even suspect they celadon coated with a white slip, but subordinates while some of their men were ritual vessels. The reason for such they are even simpler and coarser with attempted to use the bowls as bribes to an utter lack of clarity is because bowls the slip applied on a plain surface by buy favors. It is a famous anecdote that quick dipping or rough brushing. 4 of this type were produced briefly from a daimyo named Tsutsui Junkei barely the latter half of the 16th century to the 4.센 A portrait of Sen no saved his life by presenting a Korean early 17th century. Also, they were made The most famous Korean tea bowl in Rikyu (1522-1591), the famous tea master of tea bowl to Hideyoshi after disobeying only in certain areas in the southernmost Japan is “Kizaemon Ido,” a national 6 Toyotomi Hideyoshi. him. The vessel thus earned the name province of today’s South Gyeongsang. treasure of Japan, which is kept at the “Tsutsui-zutsu.” This is why so few of the bowls remain historic Daitoku-ji temple in Kyoto. 7. A celadon bowl in the collection of the National in the country nowadays. Then, how Its natural beauty has evoked glowing Museum of Korea Original Usage Remains Unknown did the Korean bowls become so compliments from multitudes of people over the centuries, of which the most One of the mysteries surrounding the popular in Japan? It was Sen no Rikyu, legendary came from a Japanese scholar, ancient Korean ceramic bowls is that Hideyoshi’s most famous tea master, who said: “This vessel was not made by scholars have yet to reach a consensus who first recognized the aesthetic a human but by nature through the hands regarding their original usage back attraction of Korean tea bowls. Japanese of a Joseon potter.” home. It was after the bowls began to tea masters and their daimyo patrons fell be used for tea ceremony in Japan that in love with the simple, unpretentious 7 Spontaneity and Nonchalance they became famous. But the bowls are Korean tea bowls, which they found obviously somewhat bigger than tea were exactly appropriate for their tea Whether intentionally or not, the potters 8. A celadon bowl inlaid with floral scrolls cups used by Koreans these days, even ceremony. They envisioned a spring of Joseon didn’t seem to mind the (National Treasure No. though the Japanese in the 16th century quietly pouring forth from the bottom of cracks and splits that occurred on the 115), made when celadon technique reached its drank a different type of tea, which was the bowl. surface of their bowls. Nor did they try peak during the Goryeo brewed from powdered green tea leaves. to remove the traces of the slip flowing Dynasty. Juxtaposed to Japanese Aesthetics down. Once they shaped them, the 5. A traditional Korean kitchen with crude ce- The problem is that it still remains While its interior spread mysterious potters seem to have left the bowls in ramic bowls for daily use. unclear how the bowls had been used ripples in the hearts of tea lovers, the hands of nature for the last phase. the exterior of the bowl also had Thus they minimized human touches, 8 a marvelously relaxing effect in which became a prized characteristic of the Japanese tea room, where the Korean aesthetics. The crude stoneware predominant aesthetic was based on bowls epitomize the spirit of Joseon precision and symmetry. The Japanese potters who, in a pleasantly spontaneous pursued perfection in every detail, manner, imbued their vessels with the which was no doubt among the greatest gracious breath of nature. strengths of their culture. The obsessive pursuit of flawlessness, however, entailed a certain amount of stuffiness. That cramped feeling was instantly eased by the Korean tea bowl, which was carefree and unassuming, and hence 5 radically different from its surrounding. Human Heritage 14 | 15

King Sejong (r. 1418-1450), who is 1. Pages from “Explanations and Examples of the widely referred to as a “sage king” Proper Sounds to Instruct The Most Revered King in Korean History or a “great king,” is one of the most the People” (Hunmin jeongeum haerye), which respected heroes in Korean history. explained the basics of Sejong the Great Ruled over Golden Age Even before his death, he was deified the Korean script promul- as a superhuman and often compared gated in 1446. to Yao and Shun, the two early Chinese 2. A portrait of King Sejong Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration emperors who are looked up as models Photos by Eurocreon & Goodimage of a wise and capable ruler. It’s been a kind of taboo among Korean historians to make critical comments on Sejong, but with the shroud for sanctification removed, there still is very little 2 possibility of anyone denying that he administration amid political stability brought Confucian politics and national secured by his father, Taejong. Sejong culture to an unprecedented flowering applied his unique academic approach and set an outstanding example of good in consolidating the basic frame of governance. government laid out by Taejong. He studied ancient statutes and institutions Finding the Path in Books to define the detailed requirements Sejong, the fourth king of the Joseon necessary for efficient governance. Dynasty, was born Yi Do in 1397. His Even when writing a minor code of childhood name was Won-jeong and regulations, he examined all relevant posthumous title Jangheon, meaning historical precedents and analyzed the “Mighty and Knowledgeable.” Starting merits and weaknesses of each statute at an early age, Sejong read enormous in comparison to similar measures amounts of books and became a scholar- and then made adjustments to offset king who loved to study. He delved shortcomings. into numerous disciplines beyond Confucian classics, including history, Paving the Institutional Groundwork law, astronomy, music and medicine, In his erudite approach to state accumulating expert knowledge in many management, the first problem fields. He said he read all Confucian encountered by Sejong was the classics more than 100 times each, insufficient historical resources except a single volume that he read only available for study. He urged scholars 30 times, and all other books on history to expand and revise the History of and other subjects at least 30 times each. Goryeo (Goryeo sa) and Essentials of Goryeo History (Goryeo sa jeoryeo), When he assumed full control of the two major local sources, while government in 1422, four years after his reading Chinese texts as well. He read accession, Sejong began demonstrating a complete edition of Comprehensive 1 his scholarly expertise in state Mirror for Aid in Government (Zizhi Human Heritage 16 | 17

Sejong recruited talented scholars 5. Episodes from the Life and expanded the functions of the of the Buddha (Seokbo sangjeol), the first Bud- (Jiphyonjeon), a dhist book compiled in court research institution, to carry Korean alphabet under orders of Sejong. out these tasks. Prominent scholars such as Jeong In-ji, Seong Sam-mun and Suk-ju participated in the 3 compilation and publication of books on ethical education, agriculture, 3. A called cheonja tongjian), an important reference work chongtong (“sky-class geography, measurement, mathematics, in Chinese historiography, and had ”), which shot iron medicine, etc. These publications balls, an upgrade during scholars compile An Annotated Guide to the reign of King Sejong. were instrumental for improvement Zizhi Tongjian (Jachi tonggam huneui), of various governance systems, 5 which is said to be more complete than including bureaucracy, taxation, public prisoners, allowed soldiers to be judgment based only on articles of the comparable Chinese editions. In order finance, criminal law, military supplies discharged before their term of service law. Then, how can you expect people to apply knowledge acquired from and transportation, and paved the had expired, and improved treatment to mend their ways on their own? If it Chinese texts, Sejong felt the need to institutional groundwork for the dynasty. of slaves. In the face of objections is impossible to have every individual know more about the nation’s land and from his courtiers that benevolence understand the entirety of the law, how people. He requested information about Sejong also paid tremendous attention would encourage insolence among the about picking the articles concerning the geography, society, culture, customs to science and technology as well as people, Sejong persistently implemented serious criminal offenses and translate and ecology of each provincial region the arts. He set up the palace institute compassionate and generous policies. them into the idu [an archaic phonemic from local administrators, and compiled for astronomical research, named transcription system borrowing Chinese the information into books. Publication Seoungwan, and led the production of It was also out of his deep love for characters] so that people would of the gazetteers led to fast-paced armillary spheres, sundials and water 4. Stone chimes, or pyeo- people that Sejong invented the Korean read them and know how to avoid ngyeong, an instrument development of printing technology. clocks. He employed Bak Yeon as a devised under the direc- alphabet. Strange as it may be, there committing crimes?” In the preface Printing speeds became 10 times faster court musician to reorganize the notation tion of court musician is no official record explaining the to Hunmin Jeongeum (Proper Sounds Bak Yeon. during Sejong’s reign. and performance system of the palace background of the historic project, to Instruct the People), published to music, and supported Maeng Sa-seong 6. A statue of King Sejong which was not only the greatest promulgate the new script, Jeong In-ji at Gwanghwamun Square to create a new type of music that was achievement of Sejong but also an wrote: “Therefore, wise people need in central Seoul. based on native folk music and better epoch-making event in Korean history. suited for public enjoyment. Therefore, most basic facts about the event, such as when the script began Love for the People to be made and what steps were taken Sejong is recognized as the most to create it, remain a mystery. Also, capable king who made the greatest scholars still continue to debate whether achievements among all of the 27 Sejong created the script by himself or monarchs of Joseon through its five- with scholars at the Hall of Worthies. century rule. But it was not solely due to Probably, the king had to work secretly his ability that he could become a sage because he anticipated fierce objections. king; he was a benevolent ruler who There are just a handful of clues. Sejong deeply loved his people. He frequently once remarked: “As to how grave a 4 granted favors to people, pardoned crime is, even a man of sense can make 6 Human Heritage 18 | 19

less than a half day to understand the power of the king and his subjects. letters, and even ignorant ones can learn Tirelessly working, Sejong suffered them all within ten days. Thus everyone from various illnesses in his later years. will be able to read and understand the While proofreading scores of books all meaning of written words. And they at the same time, he died in the second will be able to make judgment on legal month of 1450, at the age of 54. proceedings and understand what is going on.” From these statements it can When asked “Who is the greatest figure only be surmised why the script was in Korean history?” many Koreans created. will name Sejong the Great without 8. A caldron-type hemi- spheric sundial, called hesitation. Korea enjoyed a golden age angbu ilgu, made by Jang Boundless Spiritual Energy of peace and prosperity during his reign. Yeong-sil under orders of Sejong. It means that under his rule the nation Sejong needed superhuman energy to achieved balanced development in 9. A rain gauge invented work so hard. In the latter half of his during the reign of Se- many fields, including politics, national jong. reign, he reorganized the government defense, academic learning, science to transfer responsibilities to the 10. An armillary sphere for and music. This was possible because astronomic observation, crown prince and the State Council produced during the the sage king had an eye for talent and (Uijeongbu), whereas the previous reign of Sejong. intelligence to measure a person’s ability system required the six ministries 11. An automatic water as well as compassion and tolerance to clock, the first of its approach the throne. Though the kind in Korean history, love and understand his people. This 8 9 administrative realignment was partly made during the reign of explains why Sejong continues to be Sejong. due to his health problems, Sejong revered as a wise and capable monarch was also convinced that he had laid the and his achievements are highly foundations for realizing his Confucian appraised. ideals through the scholars mentored through the Hall of Worthies. His approach was successful enough to be credited with the establishment of Confucian rule, which harmonized the

7. King Sejong’s grave in Yeoju, Gyeonggi Province.

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7 Modern Heritage 20 | 21

and the only foreign doctor in Seoul In 1884, the state organ Hanseong apart from Japanese at the time, Min Sunbo published articles that advocated Jejungwon Revisited fully recovered in three months. The educating the public about Western incident piqued the king and queen’s medicine. In the same year, Robert Korea’s First Western Medical Institution interest in Western medicine, which S. Maclay (1824-1907), an American helped build trust between Allen and Methodist missionary, arrived in Seoul the Korean royal court. Subsequently, and acquired the king’s permission Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Allen proposed the Joseon government to begin medical work. Upon the 2 Photos by Eurocreon & Simong Agency to establish a Western-style hospital in foundation laid out by a series of these Seoul, and acquired its approval. developments, Allen’s treatment of 2. American Presbyterian medical missionary and Min Yeong-ik served as a catalyst for a diplomat Horace N. Allen, The founding of Korea’s first Western- Western-style hospital. who founded Jejungwon. style hospital, however, was not an overnight event sparked by the Korea’s First Western-style National assassination attempt. Rather, it was a Hospital culmination of a long process. Since In April 1885, the government of Joseon the early 19th century, practical-minded founded Jejungwon (House of Universal scholars of Joseon including Jeong Yak- Deliverance), the nation’s first Western- yong (1762-1836) had written a number style national hospital, under the of books about Western medicine they umbrella of the Office for Diplomatic had come to learn about via Qing China. and Trade Affairs, the equivalent to In 1877, Japanese doctors opened today’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Jesaeng Hospital in Busan to treat Trade. The hospital was initially named Koreans. In 1883, the Japanese Legation Gwanghyewon (House of Extended in Seoul opened a medical clinic to offer Grace), which was made by the Office Western-style medical service. Korean for Diplomatic and Trade Affairs and 3. First Annual Report of physician Ji Seok-yeong (1855-1935) approved by Gojong. But, in only two Jejungwon, covering succeeded in administering smallpox the hospital’s operation weeks, the king and the cabinet renamed during its first year from 1 vaccines on Korean children for the first the hospital Jejungwon. Therefore, April 10, 1885 to April 10, time in 1897. 1886. It has been desig- 1. Jejungwon, Korea’s first After it opened doors to foreign powers diplomats were celebrating the founding Gwanghyewon is rarely mentioned in nated Registered Cultural national hospital offering Heritage No. 447. in 1876, the government of the Joseon academic circles. Western-style medical of the Postal Administration in the heart What is noteworthy is that King service, opened in Seoul Dynasty under King Gojong embarked of Seoul. As the banquet was nearing its in 1885. Gojong and the Korean government on a modernization movement. Medical end, an assassin stabbed Min Yeong-ik, were eager to receive modern Western service was one of the priorities. As a a nephew of Queen Min, leaving the medicine. Under royal orders, the result, the nation’s first Western-style powerful man in critical condition and Joseon government dispatched an hospital was opened in April 1885. triggering a short-lived coup d’etat, inspection team in 1881 to look around which would later be known as Gapsin the Western-style medical practice in Historical Coincidence or Jeongbyeon. Japan. The next year Joseon closed Inevitability? down Hyeminseo and Hwarinseo, the About six months earlier, on the evening Thanks to treatment by Horace N. Allen two leading state dispensaries offering of December 4, 1884, a group of high- (1858-1932), an American Presbyterian traditional medical care, signifying a 2 3 ranking officials of Joseon and foreign medical missionary and diplomat turning point in its medical policy. 3 Modern Heritage 22 | 23

patients’ room, and a waiting room. national institutions, Uihakkyo (School by American philanthropist Louis As patients continued to increase, of Medicine) in 1899 and Gwangjewon Severance, Jejungwon evolved into the government moved the hospital (House of Extended Deliverance) Severance School in 1909 and then to Gurigae, currently the site of the in 1900. Second, Jejungwon sowed Severance Hospital in 1938, which headquarters of Korea Exchange Bank, the seeds for long-term medical is the predecessor of today’s Yonsei around October to November in 1886. development through its medical University Medical Center. missionaries. Thanks to a large donation Patients Came from All Classes Jejungwon provided medical care to a total of 10,460 patients during its 4 first year, according to the first annual report on its operation jointly written in 1886 by Horace N. Allen and John 4. Oliver R. Avison (right), Gojong and the Joseon government the Canadian missionary W. Heron. The patients came from all 6. Horace N. Allen’s medical ordered the hospital be housed in the doctor who was the social classes ranging from beggars and equipment fourth director of Jejung- home of Hong Yeong-sik (1855-1884), won, performs surgery Hansen’s disease patients to noblemen which became state property after the with the help of Korean and court ladies. Among the patients assistant Bak Seo-yang core member of the failed three-day women totaled around 800. Most at Severance Hospital in coup was killed in the turmoil. Located this undated photo. The upper-class patients requested house glass negative of the at the present site of the Constitutional calls, while many patients came from photo is Registered Cul- Court in Jongno district, the house was tural Heritage No. 448. the countryside. In terms of the illnesses spacious enough to accommodate most treated during the first year, malaria basic medical facilities, including an topped the list followed by indigestion, examination room, an operation room, various skin diseases and venereal 5. The Hanseong Sunbo disease like syphilis. Among other emphasizes the education diseases often found were tuberculosis, of Korean medical per- sonnel to practice modern leprosy, helminthiasis and beriberi. Western medicine in an editorial on lunar March 27, 1884. Historical Significance Jejungwon represented a truly significant first step in the nation’s modern medical history in that a national hospital was founded under royal orders to treat the people regardless of their social class or background.

Jejungwon contributed to the development of modern medicine in Korea through two channels. First, it was a model for hospital administration 6 and education of medical professionals, 5 which led to the founding of two Photo Gallery 24 | 25

Fall Foliage Tour to Mt. Naejang Nature Produces Vibrant Show of Colors

Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Topicphoto Agency & Goodiamage

Autumn is in full splendor around the path leading to the Naejangsan National Park.

Every year Korea’s foliage season peaks when Mt. Naejang becomes ablaze with rich and vibrant hues. The breathtaking feast of colors at this mountain, its tunnel of maple trees and fantastic rocky precipices, entice flocks of visitors from all over the country. The fall foliage here boasts a splendid harmony of bright yellows, crimson oranges and burning reds, as over 95 percent of trees on this mountain are broadleaf trees. The dense growth of maples of many different kinds produces a magnificent show of colors, which is so beautiful that no other mountain in the country can come close. Photo Gallery 26 | 27

The compounds of Baegyang Temple viewed from Mt. Naejang.

Its name evoking a sense of mystery over the “infinite secrets hidden,” Mt. Naejang straddles the two provinces of North and South Jeolla in southwestern Korea. More specifically, the main Immortal Peak (Sinseonbong), with an elevation of 763 meters, A persimmon tree near Baegyang Temple. and eight other summits of this mountain rise from the border areas between the city of Jeongeup and Sunchang County in North Jeolla, and Jangseong County in South Jeolla. Photo Gallery 28 | 29

Roof tiles piled up at Naejang Temple.

Naejang Temple viewed from a hill at the back.

Stone stupas on the grounds of Naejang Temple. Photo Gallery 30 | 31

A family heads to the mountain past Baegyang Temple. Hikers trek the path along a valley in Mt. Naejang. Foreigner’s View 32 | 33

The written history of a country is 1. Candles on sticks Diameter (candles) mostly filled with political and military 140mm; Height 995 mm quarrels, victory and defeat, success Onyang Folk Museum Candles and Beeswax in Korean History and failure. And the main objective 2. Candles is always the ruling class in their Height 180 mm endeavor to establish order, structure and administration. The people carry Text by Bin Dorim | PhD in Korean Studies from Germany, retired diplomat, the workload and their leaders carry the translator and candlemaker load to make them work. In traditional Photos by The National Folk Museum of Korea Korea things were not different. The class of the Joseon Dynasty used their power to pursue philosophical knowledge and comfortable leisure amusements at the same time, while the subjects struggled for survival paying

taxes and performing socage. 2

Let us therefore take a tiny glance into regions were advised by the authorities the more “profane” items of daily life, to put up more hives, so they could pay documented in historical sources. One of their dues in honey and beeswax, where the luxury items reserved for the upper the usual products for taxation like rice class were candles made out of beeswax. and other grains were scarce. While commoners burned animal fat, oil or wooden torches, the court and some Candles were precious articles in of the wealthier aristocrats illuminated those days, so precious that there was their quarters with this byproduct from a law banning their use in common beekeeping. Candles must have been households as they were considered a in use in Korea from ancient times, “luxury” reserved only for the royal since we find candle holders already court in the beginning of the Joseon

on the bottom of the royal resort lake 3. Hand-held lantern Anapji in Gyeongju, the capital of the 156 x 155 x 290 mm Silla Kingdom (57 B.C.–A.D. 935) and beeswax was very likely the material these candles were made of. Beeswax can be obtained from wild bees or from the combs of man-made hives. We don’t know when apiculture was introduced to Korea, but The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty (Joseon wangjo sillok, 1392– 1897) mention beekeeping already as a well-established part of agricultural production suited for taxation. In the 1 year 1418 farmers in mountainous 3 Foreigner’s View 34 | 35

Dynasty. Among silk, paper and rice, Interesting for the modern reader trade in those days was performed as 6. Candles with carved leaf design candles were often part of gratifications could be that debates about restricting an exchange of “presents” offered by Diameter (base) 45 mm, bestowed by the king to a meritorious “luxury” in times of economic hardship tributary missions. In other words, a Height 420 mm; Diameter (base) 50 mm, Height subject. In the recorded lists, the Annals were quite frequent during the 15th supposedly “inferior country” would 315 mm mention the numbers of candles in such century. Arguments like “we would send an official delegation to the a beneficiary package given by the king further agitate the people, if the high “superior country” and offer presents to as ranging from 6 to 10, so we can easily class and the court feast in luxury while the leader of that country. These presents imagine how expensive they were. the citizens starve due to a bad harvest” normally included a variety of so-called came up as easily as special taxation “local products” from raw material to In 1427, during the reign of King was demanded for millionaires during sophisticated items of craftsmanship. Sejong, a conversation between the the recent economic crises in Western As they were supposed to be gifts, the king and high officials is recorded, countries. Taking care of the three basic receiving party wouldn’t take the favor where they discussed the amounts of needs, i.e. clothing, food and shelter, as sitting down, so they prepared a package items used during a wedding ceremony. well as keeping peace was supposed to of goods as a “return-present.” In reality, The king asked the officials how the be the utmost responsibility of the state this was nothing else but a form of wedding expenditure for a prince could and the paramount goal of all political barter trade, where the amount of the

be reduced. The final decision was as action. return-present would match the worth of 6 follows: the merchandise given by the first party. Candles were also an important item We can be pretty sure that there were would even bring live animals like pairs “For the wedding of an official of 3rd of foreign trade in medieval Korea. heated negotiations on the working level of birds or flower seeds. rank and lower, 8 torches; from 2nd The majority of references to candles preceding the actual exchange. Those rank upwards 10 torches; and for the and beeswax in the Annals are found trade missions normally came on special All these items were meticulously crown prince 40 torches and 10 beeswax in lists of traded merchandise between state occasions like a royal funeral, listed in the official letter from the candles can be used.” Korea and other countries. International wedding or coronation. As any form sender, a middleman, or the monarch

4. Candles of private trade with foreign countries himself. These letters were recorded Height 230 mm was called “smuggling” and forbidden in the Annals together with the letter 5. Candlestick with but- during the Joseon era, these missions of reply from the Korean king. Korea terfly and tortoise design usually paid back in hemp cloth, an Height 420 mm were popular and developed into the means of choice for international item widely used in Korea for taxation commerce. and allowance for civil servants. The recorded number of candles Korea There are many visits by foreign trade received from these countries reached delegations recorded in the Annals. 50 to 300 pieces per mission. This alone Those who brought candles and beeswax might show how precious these goods came from Japan and the Kingdom of were at the time. Ryukyu, an archipelago between Japan and Taiwan, also known by the modern Let me now add some remarks on the name of Okinawa. Both countries sent a usage, shape and method of production variety of goods including raw material of beeswax candles in traditional Korea. like copper, iron, lead, sulfur and lime, Because the raw material was scarce and as well as textiles, herbal medicine, oil, expensive, candles were used only on dried foodstuffs, swords, knives, incense special occasions or by special persons. 4 5 and pottery. Sometimes the missions The royal household in Seoul had Foreigner’s View 36 | 37

7. Patrol lanterns special servants for different foodstuffs emblem had 3 claws. The main body 9. Candle with carved flow- Diameter (base) 145 mm, ers and leaves Height 365 mm and other supplies. One “department” of the candle was rendered in the royal Diameter (base) 55 mm, was in charge of “oil, honey, fruits, color red and the dragon, carved on the Height 330 mm candles, pepper, vegetables and non- surface of the candle, was plated with meat side dishes.” Outside of the royal gold. court, though, candles could hardly be seen as a normal means of lightning Candles for weddings and other “happy” up the dark. Candles are recorded as occasions were often decorated with being used during important ceremonies colorful floral and leaf patterns. For like ancestral rites, weddings or coloring, the Korean candle makers funerals and for religious purposes in mixed powder of dried plants and Buddhist temples. State ceremonies like flowers with the wax.

7 coronation or the 60th birthday of the king were also among those occasions. In later times, when the use of beeswax

This was the reason why the shape of 7 candles spread to the households of the candles in old Korea was far away from rural gentry, a segment of bamboo, with being “plain for the purpose,” but mostly folded like a Leporello. The wicks a wick inside, was filled with liquid came highly decorated with color and of Korean candles were quite thick wax. After the wax cooled down and carvings. compared to the diameter of the candle, became solid again, the bamboo was so we can expect a formidable emission split and the candle taken out. These For the basic setting of the candle, of smoke and soot. But the people of the candles had a somewhat coarse surface beeswax was melted and rolled out time seemed to be more concerned about and no decorations. They were used into a thin sheet that could be coiled brightness than harms from smoke. during ancestral rites performed within up around a wick. The wick was made Within a small room the smoke from the family. of Korean mulberry paper, twirled or those candles must have hurt the eyes of people and they must have shed tears in 8. Picture of ancestral shrine The end of the 19th century brought Pictures like this were steady streams. the end to beeswax candles in Korea. used when an ancestral Japanese and Western merchants rite was performed away from home or if there was The candles were shaped either introduced the modern paraffin no proper shrine. A paper round or rectangular. The surface candles, which were much cheaper memorial tablet was posted at the center. was often covered with floral design, and thus easily available to everybody, Chinese characters, or dragon design and hence the new word yangcho, symbolizing the king. When King meaning “Western candle.” Ask any Gojong assumed the title of emperor in contemporary Korean about “candle,” 1897, six huge candles (1m in height and you will hear this word. The Korean and 12cm in diameter) were used during word for beeswax almost disappeared the outdoor ceremony in the courtyard from the vocabulary. Beekeepers depicting, for the first time, dragons in modern Korea don`t use the wax with five claws as a symbol of equity anymore and throw it away, while with the Chinese emperor. Traditionally, cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies, the Chinese imperial dragon design who need it for the production of creams had 5 claws, the Korean royal symbol and ointments, have to import it from 9 8 had 4 claws, and the Japanese dragon abroad. Korean Heritage in the World 38 | 39

Millennium-old Cultural Capitals Gyeongju of Korea, Nara and Kyoto of Japan

Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Topicphoto Agency

2 3

There are many historic cities around the which had consolidated their power as 1. Rock-carved Buddhist Images at Chilburam world that are enduring sources of pride centralized monarchies. On the strength hermitage on Mt. Nam in for their nations as well as precious of its political and economic stability, Gyeongju, the old capital of the Silla Kingdom cultural assets of mankind. Gyeongju Silla made outstanding accomplishments (National Treasure No. which maintains numerous historical in science, culture and the arts. 312). monuments dating to Silla, a golden era Externally, it had active exchanges with 2. Great Tumuli Park in of ancient Korean civilization, and Nara China and Japan as well as the Islamic the old city center of Gyeongju. and Kyoto, as Japan’s iconic historic world in West Asia. With its doors open 3. Ninna-ji temple in Kyoto, cities widely known for their unique wide toward the world, Gyeongju was an ancient capital of cultural ambience, are the destinations already a thriving metropolitan with Japan. of our time travel in this edition international reputation more than a thousand years ago. Gyeongju: The Fragrance of Silla During its prime in the eighth century, Located near the southeastern tip of Gyeongju had as many as 178,936 Korea, Gyeongju today is a modest city households, with some 900,000 with a population of some 270,000 (as residents. In terms of urban scale and of 2011). But its history stretches back cultural refinement, it was comparable to two millennia to 57 B.C., when the major metropolises at the time, such as Silla Kingdom was founded here; Silla Constantinople (present-day Istanbul) of eventually unified its neighbors to place the entire Korean peninsula under its 4. The main Buddha image in Seokguram grotto in control and attained a brilliant cultural Gyeongju. flowering through its millennium-long rule.

Silla began as a small tribal state named Saroguk, also called Seorabeol. Nonetheless, it grew into a powerful kingdom to overwhelm its two 1 neighbors, Goguryeo and Baekje, 4 Korean Heritage in the World 40 | 41

5. The most famous Bud- 7. Heian Jingu, a Shinto dhist temple in Gyeongju, shrine in Kyoto, exempli- Bulguksa stands on an fies ancient Japanese ornate stone terrace. religious architecture. Decorative stone stair- ways lead up to the main compound.

5 7

the Byzantine Empire, Baghdad of the mountain, a treasure trove of Buddhist Kyoto, which remain cherished cradles long been prized as Japan’s spiritual Islamic world and Changan (Xian) of art; Moon Fortress, a royal palace site; of traditional Japanese culture. pillar vis-à-vis Tokyo, the center of China’s Tang Dynasty. Great Tumuli Park, a cluster of burial modern Japanese civilization. mounds; the ruins of Hwangnyonsa, a A serene and cozy city embraced by Gyeongju Historic Areas state temple; and the Mountain Fortress, gentle hillocks, Nara was the capital of Knowing the history of Kyoto is the royal capital’s defense strongholds. UNESCO has inscribed Gyeongju on Japan from 710 to 784. It has a generally tantamount to understanding the stream its World Heritage List under the name similar ambience with Gyeongju, as of transition in Japanese culture and The inscription acknowledges “Gyeongju Historic Areas,” recognizing an ancient capital which was once traditions. Kyoto remained as Japan’s Gyeongju’s indigenous value as a that the city’s rich cultural heritage is the national center of arts and crafts, capital until the imperial court moved to historic city with innumerable cultural worthy of humanity’s common effort for literature and industry. Eight temples, Tokyo in 1869, although military rulers remains scattered all around. But it still preservation. Each characterized by the a shrine, a palace site and a forest in had set up their de facto governments 8. Byodo-in, an ancient 6. A nocturnal view of the fails to include a considerable number of Buddhist temple in Kyoto, distinctive nature of its historic remains, the city collectively form the “Historic (bakufu) in different places, including is a UNESCO World royal resort lake Anapji, relics and monuments located outside of in Gyeongju. the five Historic Areas are Namsan Monuments of Ancient Nara,” which is Kamakura of the Kamakura Shogunate Heritage site. the Historic Areas. Among the treasures a UNESCO World Heritage site. They thus left out are the two three-story stone include Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Gango-ji, pagodas on the site of Gameun Temple Yakushi-ji and Toshidai-ji temples, and thousands of artifacts housed at the Kasuga Shrine, the remains of Heijo Gyeongju National Museum. The five Palace, and Kasugayama Primeval Historic Areas comprise 52 individual Forest. cultural assets. Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto Nara and Kyoto: Japan’s Cultural The capital of Japan for more than Gems a thousand years from 794 to 1868, It would be impossible to discuss dubbed the Heian period, Kyoto Japanese culture without mentioning the abounds in ancient cultural flavors 6 two ancient imperial capitals, Nara and immaculately preserved. The city has 8 Korean Heritage in the World 42 | 43

9. A pair of three-story Gyeongju, Nara and Kyoto urbanization, Gyeongju keeps its cultural stone pagodas stands on fragrance remarkably intact in the 21st the ruins of Game- Nara and Kyoto have unique cultural unsa, an ancient Buddhist century. Archaeological excavations still ambience and dignity accumulated in temple in Gyeongju. continue on various historical remains deep layers of time, which cannot be around the city, unveiling its lost emulated by any other city. Particularly, treasures. Kyoto remains the indisputable “cultural capital of Japan” to this day. The city Gyeongju, Nara and Kyoto share much was spared from U.S. bombing during in common as cultural capitals of World War II, owing to consideration two East Asian neighbors. With their of its invaluable historical remains. rich cultural legacies attesting to their Indeed, the city is dotted with traces checkered history, these cities beckon of countless historical events large and the world in an era when cultural small. Gyeongju also is known as an diversity is receiving fresh recognition “outdoor museum,” strewn with famous 9 10 as a source of new vitality to modern places reverberating with the history of civilization. The three cities have a lot to Silla, all of whose 56 kings ruled from (1185-1333) and Edo (present-day veranda, called butai, meaning “stage.” offer to humanity envisioning a new era here without moving the seat of their Tokyo) of the Tokugawa Shogunate The shrine is designated a national of cultural splendor. (1600-1867). Much of Kyoto suffered treasure of Japan. Most of the extant throne. Despite its widened roads and destruction in the Onin War of 1466- buildings were reconstructed during the new buildings that have appeared amid 1467, which ended the Muromachi Tokugawa period. Nijo Castle was also Shogunate (1337-1573) that ruled from built by the Tokugawa Shogunate in this city. During the Tokugawa period, 1603, initially as residence of Tokugawa Kyoto was extensively rebuilt as the Ieyasu, and was completed by his cultural, religious and economic center grandson Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1626. of Japan. The city became what it is The castle has, among other buildings today mostly at this time. and gardens, Ninomaru Palace, Honmaru Palace and Ninomaru Garden, Numerous Buddhist temples, Shinto all designated national treasures. shrines, palaces and gardens create the 11. Ninomaru Palace in Nijo 10. Cheomseongdae, an Castle, Kyoto, built in astronomical observa- unique historical ambience of Kyoto. 1603 as residence of tory in Gyeongju, built Of them, the “Historic Monuments of Tokugawa Ieyasu. during the 7th century Silla Kingdom. Ancient Kyoto,” a UNESCO World Heritage site, includes 13 temples, three shrines and a castle, such as Kiyomizu- dera, Ninna-ji, Tenryu-ji and Ryoan-ji temples, Kami and Shimo shrines, and Nijo Castle. Kiyomizu-dera is one of the must-sees for all visitors to Kyoto. The temple was founded in 778 by the monk Enchin after he found the Otowa Waterfall, above which the main shrine was built with its famously broad 10 11 Intangible Heritage 44 | 45

hats continued to be worn during the 1. An old horsehair hat (gat) and case (gatjip) Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), and during 2. A picture of three Korean Fine Horsehair Hats the succeeding Joseon period, these scholars wearing black hats constituted an important part of an horsehair hats, drawn by adult man’s formal outfit prescribed by an unidentified Western Joseon Men’s Status Symbol visitor in 1895. the Confucian-oriented dynasty of high moral standard. At the same time, the Text by Kim Eun-jeong | Professor, Department of Clothing & Textiles, College of hats as well as the overall dress style of Human Ecology, Chonnam National University Photos by National Research Institute of Culture Heritage upper-class men mirrored the simple and austere aesthetic sensibility of the era.

Men of the Joseon period wore black horsehair hats, called heungnip, when they went out, or even at home. Civil officials of the major third rank or higher 2 wore red lacquer-coated hats, called Gat, the fine horsehair hats of Korean jurip, along with an officer’s uniform men during pre-modern times, evolved when they attended military events. from practical weather protection Hats covered with white hemp cloth, into a status symbol of a rigid class called baengnip, were used by people society. The types and forms of these of all classes during periods of national hats changed over time and varied mourning. The dress reform in 1884, depending on the wearer’s status and ordered by King Gojong, purported to purpose. A fine horsehair hat became simplify the dressing style of people an indispensable element of the stylish as part of the efforts to modernize the appearance of a nobleman of letters, country. Hats became noticeably smaller or , during the Joseon Dynasty with shorter crowns and narrower rims. (1392-1910), and an iconic cultural This new type of hats continued to be image of Korea nowadays. used through much of the early half of the 20th century, when Koreans Historical Origins began to wear Western-style clothing in everyday life. The traditional hats 3. A standard black horse- The oldest written reference to Korean hair hat (heungnip) used gradually disappeared. These days, as by Korean men during men’s hats is found in History of the a quintessential cultural icon of bygone pre-modern times. Three Kingdoms (Samguk yusa), a 13th century text, by the Chinese-character name sorip, meaning “white hat,” while gat is a vernacular Korean word. A mural in Gamsinchong, a tomb of Goguryeo (37 B.C.-A.D. 668), one of the three ancient Korean kingdoms, has a figure wearing headgear consisting 1 of a crown and rim. Similar types of 3 Intangible Heritage 46 | 47

4. A fine black horsehair hat “Disgraced with a gat on your head,” 6. A genre picture of men constituted an essential enjoying an arrow- part of men’s formal outfit alludes to unexpected humiliation faced throwing game (tuho), by during the Joseon period. in a dignified situation, which adds up to Kim Hong-do, a famous 18th century painter. 5. A hat covered with white the disgrace felt by the victim. hemp cloth was used along with mourning garments. Craftsmanship of Gat Making The making of a fine horsehair hat involves arduous procedures undertaken

4 5 by three types of craftsmen: a crown 6 maker, a brim maker, and an assembler. Korea, men’s traditional hats are only brim have an acute balance of straight The crown, shaped like an inverted state protection in a few regions around worn for authentic ancestral rites, lines, exquisitely complementing the glass, is carefully woven with ultra-fine the age-old hubs of Tongyeong, Yecheon ceremonies for coming of age, cultural white overcoat in symbolizing the lofty strands of the hair from a horse’s mane and Jeju. festivals, or as part of costumes for spiritual world of the scholar-noblemen. or tail, called malchong, and is thus 7. Bamboo strands are care- period dramas and films. Interestingly, Kim Hong-do (1745-after called chong moja. The brim, called fully prepared to produce a top-quality men’s hat. 1816), a contemporary of Shin, was yangtae, is made by weaving together Joseon Men’s Headwear in Genre more interested in depicting noblemen 8. Fine bamboo strands are similarly fine strands of bamboo into put together to make a Paintings who indulged in drinking, their spoiled a disk shape with a hole in the center. crown. dignity suggested by their hats worn Men’s hats continuously altered in These two are joined and lined with silk 9. A brim is finished by at- askew. taching ultra-fine bamboo length and size during the Joseon strips where necessary and coated with strands one by one. lacquer to make a finished hat, called period, in accordance with changing 10. A finished hat is coated Symbolism of the Gat social mores and cultural milieu. In ipja. Each procedure requires different with lacquer. most Western societies, men generally Under the influence of Confucian skills and materials. Hence they are done 11. A lacquer-coated hat is take off their hats before someone of a decorum, Koreans through the ages separately, often at segregated locations. dried on a wooden shelf. higher status. But in pre-modern Korea, have regarded headdress as an important The entire process as a whole has been men never took them off, even when means of expressing courtesy and designated Important Intangible Cultural kowtowing to the king as they believed etiquette. In particular, the black Heritage No. 4. the hat was an integral part of their horsehair gat were almost universal formal attire. headdress for the middle class as well Traditionally, Confucians taught that as noblemen. Differentiated from more a man should take good care of his 7 10 Traditional genre paintings offer an common types of headwear like the body, attending to even a stand of hair, intriguing glimpse of such dressing bamboo hats (chorip) or cone-shaped because it exists solely owing to his custom among men of the literati class straw hats (bangnip or paengnyangja), parents. Some even risked their lives to of the Joseon period. Especially, the which were largely worn by men of uphold this time-honored principle of genre scenes depicted by Shin Yun- lower classes for practical purposes filial piety. The fierce public resistance bok (1758-?, style name Hyewon), like protection from sunlight or rain, to the 1895 royal ordinance to prohibit 8 a famous painter during the reign of the black horsehair hat had a distinctive topknots was based on this principle. King Jeongjo, succinctly portray the ceremonial significance: only males The ordinance dealt a fatal blow to the highly restrained aesthetic expressed by who had had a coming-of-age ceremony production of men’s traditional horsehair the headdress of Joseon noblemen of were qualified to wear this hat, hence hats which were worn over a topknot. letters; their black horsehair hats seem the understandable meaning and pride Demand eclipsed naturally, and these light and transparent and the crown and attached to it. The old Korean proverb, days, the hat production continues under 9 11 50 |

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Cultural Heritage Administration, 189 Cheongsa-ro, Seo-gu, Daejeon, Republic of Korea Tel | 82-42-481-4797 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 http://english.cha.go.kr

Published | September 15, 2012

Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea

Publication | Director of International Affairs Division management

Content | Lee Yae-na, Park Jung-eun, Kim Min-ok coordination Translation | Lee Kyong-hee

Proofreading | Ted Chan

Design ∙ Editing | Graphickorea Co., Ltd Printed by | Graphickorea Co., Ltd

Cultural Heritage Administration, 2012

This publication is copyrighted. No part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. copyright Cultural Heritage Administration