Reprinted from the U. S. Lighthouse Society’s The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 Cape Elizabeth Light Station By Wayne Wheeler

ape Elizabeth is a critical geological point on the Maine coast. South of the Cape the coast has long sandy beaches amongst rocky spits and headlands. To the north of the Cape the coast line is almost devoid of sandy beaches and becomes laced with rocky cliffs and islands. Early Spanish explorers called the area cabo de muchas isles or “cape of many islands.” In 1604, Samuel de Champlain visited the area, met with an Indian tribe and labeled the area Isle de Bacchus due to the abundance of the numerous native grapes. Three years later Captain Raleigh Gilbert sailed on a voyage of discovery, sailed by “…many gallant islands…” and anchored in the vicinity of them where he found, “ …the land to be most fertill, the trees growinge thear doeth exceed for good- nesse & Length being the most part of them Above – Original rubble-stone octagonal Cape Elizabeth west tower. Note the Fresnel lens, ocke and walnut…” keeper on the gallery and the other people (keepers’ families?) gathered around the base of the From Gilbert’s description it appears he tower. Photo courtesy of American Lighthouse Foundation. Below – A later view with the 1873 cast iron west tower in the foreground, east tower beyond. sailed past Casco Bay and encountered Cape Image from an old post card. Elizabeth, probably near where the Portland Head Lighthouse is now situated. Seven years later Captain John Smith sailed to the area and noted the prominent Cape on his chart, although he did not venture ashore. When he returned to England he presented his charts to King Charles and the 1614 chart, for the first time, shows the prominent headland as ‘Cape Elizabeth.’ We don’t know if Captain Smith or, perhaps, King Charles applied the name. The first grant to refer to the town of Cape Elizabeth was issued in 1622 by the Plym- outh Council. Until March 1820, the present State of Maine was part of Massachusetts. On March 16, 1820 it was admitted as an inde- pendent state. The entrance to Portland Harbor is guarded by numerous islands, reefs and rocky outcroppings. Many of the dangers to early sailing vessels are located off Cape Elizabeth, south of Portland Head. Strong winds from the northeast, especially nor’easters, tend to set vessels approaching Portland southwest on a lee shore. Blunt’s American Coast Pilot,

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 A 1953 aerial view of the entire Cape Elizabeth headland. At left center the square fog signal building. Just to the right, radio towers and the Cape Elizabeth Life Saving Station. Building with porch is a Coast Guard billet. At right on hill is the east tower and keeper’s dwelling, the next house is the third keeper’s dwelling, in the center background is the west tower without lantern. At top left, the circular “silo” is a World War II observation tower for Battery 201 which was located along the shore at upper left. U. S. Coast Guard photo.

1807, provides advice when attempting to enter Portland Harbor, “When you come from the south-westward, and intend to go into Portland, give Cape Elizabeth a berth of half a mile, and steer NNE until you bring Portland Lighthouse to bear NNW, when you must haul up NNW if the wind will permit…” Blunt also noted that there were two buoys in the approach to Portland, but that at times one or both might be missing. Even after the Cape Elizabeth Light Station was established in 1822, entering Portland Harbor, especially from the south was a dan- gerous proposition. The first lighthouse constructed in the Maine part of Massachusetts was Portland Head. It was the second light station autho- rized by the 1st Congress in 1790, the Cape Henry Lighthouse having been authorized two months earlier. At that time our country had twelve lighthouses, which had been authorized for transfer from the new states to the federal government in 1789.

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 owever, the Portland Head Lighthouse, two unlighted buoys and, perhaps, a Hfew shore markers were woefully inad- equate for the needs of safe navigation in the area. Responding to complaints by the mar- iner, steps were taken to erect a stone column to denote Cape Elizabeth. This marker would define the southeastern point of the Cape. In 1811, Henry Dearborn surveyed the area and drew up plans for the aid to navigation. A con- tract to construct the day beacon was awarded to Edward Robinson and John Bartlett The Dyer brothers, who had sold the government the land for the beacon, furnished “undressed rocks of good quality”, as well as sand and water for the mortar. Work began in August and was completed at the end of November when the three foot diameter cap stone was hoisted into place. The finished, rubble stone column was an octagonal pyramid standing 50 feet high. The lower half of the monument was painted white, the upper half black. It was located on the present site of eastern tower of the Cape Elizabeth light station. Vessel traffic continued to increase as the area around Portland grew. Fisheries were very active and lumber and granite were shipped out of the area. On July 14, 1825, the local newspaper stated that it was possible to see “with the naked eye forty-two sail vessels off our harbor, bound out” and with a telescope from the top of the observatory upwards of 100 Original rubble-stone east tower and dwelling built in 1828. The wide red bands were painted in 1865, but remained for only a few years. Photo courtesy of American Lighthouse Foundation. sails could be seen. There was a definite need for additional aids to navigation and Congress was petitioned for a light station at Cape Eliz- abeth. In January, 1827 in the U.S. Senate, “Mr. Holmes presented a petition of the Port- land Marine Society in the State of Maine, praying that two light-houses may be estab- lished on Cape Elizabeth.” It was referred to the Committee on Commerce and $4,250 for the station was authorized that spring. It was the first twin tower light station constructed in Maine. Later the two tower Matinicus Rock Light Station, off the Maine coast, was estab- lished. America eventually had seven multi- tower stations: Massachusetts had four and New Jersey one. Stephen Pleasonton, 5th Auditor of the Treasury and in charge of the nation’s aids to navigation system, wrote to Isaac Ilsley, local Collector of Customs and in charge of local lighthouses “…Why two Light Houses are to be placed upon this Cape, and so small a sum The 1873 cast iron east tower which is still in use today. Note the covered passage between the allowed for building them, I am informed. I tower and dwelling. The power line pole indicates that the lamp is electrified. The Second Order must request you however to make an exami- Fresnel lens is shrouded in a linen cover. Photo Courtesy of Robert J. Lewis.

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 stood 65 feet high and 129 feet above sea level. They were situated roughly on an east – west axis and 300 yards apart. On October 28, 1828 the lamps were lit for the first time. The eastern tower displayed a fixed white light from 15 lamps backed by 15 inch reflectors, while the western tower displayed an equal interval characteristic (45 seconds of light, 45 seconds of darkness) from 14 lamps with 15 inch reflectors. It’s interesting to note that a flashing characteristic was employed in this era in this country. Other countries had been using mechanical means to produce a flashing char- acteristic since the late 18th century as well as employing Fresnel lenses since that system Cape Elizabeth Light Station with the west tower in foreground, east tower beyond. Note the was invented in 1822. But, our aids to navi- curving white line between towers which is the fence mentioned in the text. Date unknown. gation system was woefully behind the times. Photo courtesy U. S. Coast Guard. With a few exceptions (test purposes) Fresnel nation, or cause it to be made, and inform me whether two Light Houses are necessary, and for what sum suitable buildings can be erected. You will also ascertain whether the sites can be obtained, and for what price…” In 1828, twelve acres of land on Cape Eliz- abeth was purchased by the State of Maine for fifty dollars and transferred to the federal government. In May, 1828, a contract was let to Jeremiah Berry to construct the two rubble stone towers for $4,250. As part of the contract he was to demolish the old rubble stone day mark, materials from which he no doubt used in the new towers. uring the construction of the station Isaac Ilsley, visited the site to check on Dprogress and ensure the station was being built to specifications. He later included a payment to himself for superintending the project. At the time all Collectors of Customs received two and one half percent of all govern- Above – Cape Elizabeth Life Saving Station in natural or dark finish with white trim. ment funds expended on aids to navigation in Below – Cape Elizabeth Light Station after 1924. Life Saving Station, painted white, at left with their district. Pleasonton took exception to this radio towers, east tower at right and west tower, without lantern in middle background. Note additional expense stating that the fee of two that east tower still has covered walkway between dwelling and tower and lacks electric power. and one half percent was sufficient. He wrote, Both views from old post cards. “You will therefore strike out of the account of Cape Elizabeth light houses the charge for superintendence of the workman. “ In October, 1828, the station was com- pleted and ready to begin operation. Presi- dent John Quincy Adams appointed Elisha Jordan to be the first keeper at a salary of $450 a year. He had been chosen from a slate of 18 candidates. He was instructed to reside at the station and make it a habit to be home. His assistant was his wife. The two completed rubble stone towers

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 lenses were not installed in our lighthouses higher than the front) to show the center year, succumbing to cancer the following June. until the 1850s. Additionally, the rational for line of a channel or entrance into a harbor. During his very brief stint, the station received constructing multiple towers was to allow one The Cape Elizabeth station was not a range its first fog signal, a bell. A small building was light station to be distinguished from another. light station, yet the rationale was that two erected in May, 1835 to house the automatic The first lighthouse on Cape Cod was the towers were necessary to distinguish it from striking machinery. The bell was mounted on Cape Cod station at Truro. When a second nearby Portland Head. One tower displaying the roof of the structure. station was deemed necessary to the west, the equal interval characteristic employed Mariners who had sailed to Europe were two towers were employed at Chatham, and in the west tower would have been, it seems, aware of the better quality of aids in those when the service decided that another sta- adequate. countries. The Fresnel lens system produced tion was necessary between those two light Keeper Jordan’s reign at Cape Elizabeth a far superior light and mariners returning stations, three towers were erected at Nauset. ended in September 1834 when he fell victim from overseas expressed their disgruntlement The other reason for two towers would be the to the spoils system. His successor, Charles to their representatives. The charge was led by establishment of range lights (the rear tower Staples, an active Democrat, only lasted a the Blunt brothers, publishers of the American Coast Pilot. The upshot was two congressional inves- tigations in the 1830s and one in 1843. The 5th Auditor, and his power behind the throne Winslow Lewis, always managed to counter the charges that our system was defective. At one point (after tests were conducted) he acknowledged that the Fresnel system was somewhat better than our reflector system, but too costly. In 1842/43 Navy Lt. I. W. P. Lewis, a nephew and no fan of Winslow Lewis, inspected many New England light stations. His report of Cape Elizabeth stated, in part— “East Tower of rubble masonry, 48 feet high, laid up in bad mortar, base resting on surface of rock…masonry in defective state; mortar soft, and pointing scaled off; walls Above – The two towers of Cape Elizabeth Light Station prior to 1922 when both towers were leaky; wooden staircase rotted considerably; in operation. The house in the middle is the third keeper’s dwelling. Because of the fog signal, also window frames, which leak in storms; four keepers were required to operate the station. From an old post card. roof leaky. Below – Post card view of both Cape Elizabeth keepers’ dwellings; west tower duplex at left, “West tower of rubble masonry, 49 feet east tower single house at right. Courtesy of the Shanklins. high, laid up in bad lime mortar…in precisely similar condition to the east tower, Towers 895 feet apart. “Dwelling house of rubble masonry, laid up in lime mortar of bad quality; roof shingles; two rooms on first floor, and kitchen back; two chambers in attic, house leaky about eaves, roof and windows; chimney smoky; plastering injured by leaks; no well of fresh water. “Lantern of east tower. Fixed light, octag- onal wrought iron frame, dome coppered…fif- teen lamps with 16-inch reflectors attached to ten circular iron frames, thirty-five inches in diameter – eight in the lower series, seven in the upper, reflectors stand from three to five inches apart, and fourteen out of perpendicular from one forth to one inch…six lamps face inland to no purpose, one facing lantern door. “Lantern of the west tower, revolving light; same construction and dimensions as the east one above described, five panes of

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 glass broken… “Machine of rotation weak, and liable to frequent stoppages… “Fog bell house. Framing 20 feet high, sup- porting a small belfry eight feet square; bell hung permanently, and struck by 14 pound hammer, whose blows are produced by a machine within the belfry. The machine is set in motion by a motive weight of 1,200 pounds, descending eighteen feet, and which requires to be wound up every six hours. The bell weighs 1,561 pounds, stands 1,600 feet from the shore, and 80 feet above mean high water. Its sound cannot he heard above the roar of the surf, except with an offshore wind or during a dead calm.” The difference between the earlier state- ment that the completed towers were 65 feet high and Lewis’s inspection statement that they are 49 feet high is that he was measuring Above – The east tower circa 1975. U. S. Coast Guard photo. the top of the tower to the ground, and not from the top of the dome of the lantern. The Below – The east tower from the other (north) side. Note the attachments to the walkway. The lantern adds 16 feet to the entire structure. farmer plowing with a yoke of oxen was a common sight in Maine up through World War II. Photo courtesy of American Lighthouse Foundation. Early Light Lists measured the tower separate from the lantern. Late 19th and 20th century Light Lists measure the total structure as well as from the focal plane to mean high water. Lt. I.W. P. Lewis often had the keeper either sign off on his inspection or make a statement. At Cape Elizabeth, George Fickett keeper of Cape Elizabeth double light and fog-bell made the following statement on August 5, 1842: “I was appointed keeper of these lights in July, 1841, on a salary of five hundred dollars, fifty of which is for the fog-bell. There are eigh- teen acres of land here, partly under cultiva- tion, say two acres. “Both lighthouses are very leaky about the walls and windows; water runs in about the deck of each, and the woodwork on both is consequently rotted. The reflectors in the fixed light are not well fitted to the lamps, and the glass chimneys are not big enough. The reflec- tors in the revolving light are worn out. The clock [clockworks machinery which rotated the reflectors] often stops during winter. I have never been told what time the revolu- tions should occupy; they are slow or fast as the clock may run. There are four lamps in the fixed light which face toward the land. The fog building is in very bad condition. “The house leaks about the eaves and ends, injuring the plastering. I paid one hundred and fifty dollars for the betterment on this estate, owned by the late keeper, consisting of a barn and shed, small pigstye, etc. The lights stand

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 895 feet apart, with a deep valley between which is filled with snow during winter, and makes the labor of tending arduous. There is no well on the premises. I bring my water fifty rods; we have a rain water cistern. I am not allowed any boat, [and] vessels are some- times in distress off here, or ashore on some of the reefs.” George Fickett Witness J.W. Adams B.F. Isherwood. After past inspections, and petitions of complaints, Stephen Pleasonton would some- times counter charges by enlisting “friendly” mariners to sign a petition stating that our lights were perfect, could be seen at great dis- tances when in fact the height of a particular light and the curvature of the earth made it impossible to be seen at those distances, to say nothing of the poor illuminating equipment. In the case of Cape Elizabeth he must have “sweet talked” the keeper into rebutting his earlier statement, as the following might indi- cate – Cape Elizabeth, November 3, 1843 “Having for the first time just read a printed Above – East Tower showing the Second Order Fresnel in the lantern. This lens never had the statement of the condition of the light-houses top and bottom sections to complete the “beehive” shape. Photo courtesy of the Shanklins. at Cape Elizabeth, signed by myself, the keep Below – The Cape Elizabeth east tower Second Order Fresnel lens on display in the Cape of these lights, dated August 5, 1842, in Docu- Elizabeth town hall. The original characteristic of this lens was six rapid flashes followed by an ment No. 183, I find several important errors, eclipse of 17 seconds. Photo courtesy of Rusty Nelson. and that, generally it gives the wrong impres- sion as to the condition of these lights. There was a leak in the eastern light, but I discov- ered and effectively stopped it. The wood- work in both lights is in good order, except one window sill and about an inch and a half of one step and riser in the stairs of the eastern light. There are but two lamps that could safely be dispensed with, and so I told Mr. Lewis [I.W.P. Lewis] when he drew up the statement for me to sign; and I have strong doubts of the expediency of taking both of these off. All the leak in the dwelling house was over the east window, which I have stopped, “The clock [works] did not run well at first; it was a new one, and went hard, but it now goes well. I have never been without a boat of my own, which I use to fish in when not oth- erwise engaged, and she is as large as I can manage. The reflectors may at time be out of exact plumb, when the lamps are set up to pre- vent overflowing. I have heard seamen speak of these lights as excellent ones. I never failed to trim them once in four hours. The reflec- tors of the revolving lights were much worn when Mr. Lewis visited them. Captain How-

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 land put in new reflectors this year. There is common scissors for trimming, lanterns too ut maritime interests persisted, no broken glass in either light; a few panes are small; plate-glass, 26 by 18. Lights up at sunset demanding that the western tower cracked at the corners, but do not let in any – puts out at sunrise. Bad ventilators; can Bbe re-lighted. The Board acquiesced water. The glass is 13 by 12, and not 11 by 12 only be used with difficulty…has been no and the western tower was relighted in the as stated by Mr. Lewis.” painting, whitewashing or pointing for two spring of 1856. A few years later one of the George Fickett, keeper of the cape lights years, except lantern painted red inside last stations lights must have been extinguished as at Cape Elizabeth year, and new vane put up; has had no lime the owner of the Brig Plumas petitioned Con- Witness W.T. Smith for two years, burners not very clean. Fog bell gress “praying remuneration for losses occa- “I further state, that Mr. Lewis recom- 1,560 pounds; struck by machinery once in sioned by the loss of said brig, in consequence mended that the light-houses should be ten seconds; machinery out of order: stops of the discontinuance of one of the lights at repointed with cement, which was done; and occasionally; reported to the collector, but not Cape Elizabeth without public notice.” It was it scaled off, and did no good. The light-houses repaired. Building for bell in very bad order… referred to committee. had not been repaired – not even whitewashed bell heard in calm weather two or three miles; In 1865, the east tower was painted with four – for two years, when Mr. Lewis visited them; with light wind it cannot be heard further than wide red horizontal bands and the west tower and the repairs were delayed that year, for Mr. the beach, about 100 yards. Has no spare glass received a very wide, vertical, red stripe. Lewis to inspect them first, so that he could for the lantern; has had generally very bad oil, In 1867, the Lighthouse Board Annual Report see them in their worst state, and all defects, but still compelled to burn it. Receives supplies mentioned that the plastering of the western if any, should be visible.” only once a year, in July or August… dwelling dwelling was repaired and painted. Also, “The George Fickett in pretty good order; leaks in heavy rains..” fog bell tower repaired and strengthened by As an aside – the keepers of other stations “West Light – Fourteen 21-inch parabolic putting up eight hackmatack knees, five new also rebutted their initial negative statements. reflectors; lighted July 4, 1850; Lamps and braces, and one new beam, and refastening the Perhaps Pleasonton, or his Collectors of Cus- reflectors on two faces, three broken panes of bell-hammers, revolving machinery, and clock toms placed a little pressure on the keeper to plate glass, one very badly broken; plate glass [works] cleaned…” Which seemed to be an recant their statement, do you think? 20 by 32 inches; lantern painted red inside… unnecessary effort as just two years later the Pleasonton again escaped this latest assault reflectors thinly plated, one of them bruised; bell was replaced by a 10” steam (locomotive) on his empire. However, in 1851 an ad hoc lantern entirely too small; not very clean; clock- whistle. The first two steam whistles were at committee, the Lighthouse Board, conducted work movement; revolves once in four min- West Quoddy head and Cape Elizabeth. The a detailed inspection of our aids to navigation utes, dark from thirty to forty five seconds. Board wrote, “A steam fog signal has been estab- system and sent representative to other coun- No journal kept on account of oil consumed lished, lamps and burners repaired, curtains tries to discern the state of the art. This time per night; makes quantity agree with quantity furnished [for the lantern rooms], revolving the 5th auditor did not survive and the ad hoc on hand. Tower wants looking after; towers of machinery cleaned, six windows supplied, and committee became the U.S. Lighthouse Board. these two lights pretty well built, but greatly lantern stoves provided. The western tower is an The Board brought vast changes to our system. neglected. old rubble stone structure, lined with wood and Rules, regulations and equipment all played a “The keeper of these two lights and fog having a wooden stairway. The tower should part in the modernization of America’s light sta- bell seems desirous of keeping good lights, but be rebuilt, and a permanent building erected tions. By the outbreak of the Civil War almost is wanting in proper instruction; burners not for the fog signal, but it is not probable that all lighthouse were equipped with Fresnel lenses clean, wicks not well trimmed… there should any detriment to the service will arise from a and most had new lantern rooms installed. be not less than two keepers to these lights, little delay, and therefore no estimate is now One of the stations the ad hoc committee and one of them constantly on watch during submitted for an appropriation to make these inspected was Cape Elizabeth. the entire night.” improvements.” The following year the Board “July 4, 1851 – Sea-coast light: east light Late in 1854, 3rd order Fresnel lenses noted, “The westerly tower of the two, at this nearest point fixed, west light revolving. Wil- replaced the old reflector system in both light station, was built in 1828 of rubble stone, liam Johnson, principle and only keeper, took towers. The lanterns were replaced prior to this and is now in such a state as to render it neces- charge July 12, 1849. No previous instruction improvement. The next year the Lighthouse sary to rebuild it in a better manner, for which in the management of lights. Had the man Board announced that the western (inner) light an estimate has been submitted in the annual who had previously been keeper show him. would be discontinued and the eastern light estimates. The station is one of the most impor- Tower built (east light) of undressed hard slate, would display an equal interval characteristic. tant on the eastern coast, serving the double in 1828-29, laid in very inferior lime mortar; The change took place on August 1, 1855. This purpose of a sea-coast light station, and as a pointing cement very good, windows and caused a great hue and cry from mariners. The mark of the entrance into Casco Bay and to towers leak badly; frame of lantern around glass Board explained that the change was insti- Portland Harbor. In 1872, the Board repeated leaks badly; tower damp inside, walls discolored tuted to avoid confusion. They said that the the request for an appropriation of $30,000 to and cracked; want painting badly; conductor revolving light was always seen by mariners make improvements which was approved. (lightning) not carried far enough off, and lying some time before the fixed light was visible. The 1873 Report mentions that construc- on the ground. Thus, the mariner might confuse the Wood tion of the replacement tower was underway “Thirteen parabolic reflectors; plating Island Light, to the south, with Cape Elizabeth and the next year the Board stated that the very thin, and in some of them off in spots… and this could cause a vessel to ground.. appropriation was so generous that they were

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 able to replace both towers. 1875 –“With the amount of this appropriation both west and east towers have been rebuilt of cast iron, lined with bricks, and the old rubble stone towers taken down.” A house with a cov- ered walkway was attached to each tower, a third dwelling was located between the two. While the bases remained white, the towers were painted brown, later back to white, then brown again and since 1903 have been white. The east light produced a fixed white light from a 1st order lens, the west tower displayed a flashing white light every 60 second from the old 2nd order lens. In 1876, the service constructed a brick fog signal building, 12 feet on a side. They also requested $5,000 to establish a siren fog signal to replace the steam whistle. Prior to the Lighthouse Board taking con- trol, many of the light station dwellings were constructed of the same rubble stone as the towers. Like the towers, they leaked and were Both towers were painted brown shortly after being built in 1873. They were then repainted white, cold and dank. Although the new Board made then to brown again. Since 1903 they have remained white. Above is the west tower and below the east tower. Both photos courtesy of American Lighthouse Foundation.

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 numerous improvements the Civil War inter- 1885. The prior year Head Keeper Marcus task through the night until relieved by Assis- vened before the Board could complete all their Hanna (who began his lighthouse career at the tant Staples at 6 a.m. Hanna later stated that desired changes and on the list of uncompleted Pemaquid Point, ME station in 1869) arrived by this time, “…it was one of the coldest and projects were replacement dwellings. After the and was the first keeper at the station to light the most violent storms of snow, wind and vapor war the Board began the task of replacing the new mineral (kerosene) lamps which replaced was raging, that I ever witnessed.” old rubble stone dwellings with new wooden the lard oil lamps which had been in use since When he started toward his dwelling he frame structures. A great many were con- the 1850s. On January 28, 1885 Keeper Hanna’s encountered drifts of snow from three to five structed in the 1870s. In 1878 the Annual wife sighted the masts of a schooner near the feet and in his weakened condition he had to report states, “A one and one half story dwelling, rocks of the shore. The weather had been rather crawl to the house where his wife admonished for the keeper, was erected and the old stone mild until that evening when severe storm swept him for leaving the house in the first place. dwelling was repaired [for the assistant]. The in from the northeast. Hanna, suffering from a She put him to bed and said she would extin- next year two wooden dwellings are mentioned bad cold, was in the fog signal building tending guish the light in the towers when it was time. and repairs made to the stone dwelling. to the boilers to ensure the siren was sending Hanna drifted off to sleep and his wife dutifully In 1881, the Annual Report mentioned that out its appointed signal. Finally, he realized with extinguished the lamps at 7:12 a.m. As she was the towers received two coats of white paint and the strengthening wind from off-shore and the returning from the tower she saw the masts of a the lantern painted black. heavy snow beginning to fall, that it was very schooner on shore near the fog signal building. One of the most dramatic episodes at the unlikely that any vessel off-shore would hear She rushed into the house and woke keeper Cape Elizabeth station occurred in January, the signal. However, he kept to his assigned Hanna. After hastily dressing the keeper strug-

The schooner Australia was by no means the only vessel to come to grief off Cape Elizabeth. In March of 1947, the steamer Oakey Alexander broke up in a raging storm as she approached Portland. Just off Cape Elizabeth the vessel lost her bow and started to sink. Loaded with coal, the captain decided to ground off the Cape, which he succeeded in doing. The Cape Elizabeth Life Saving crew were on the scene in short order and set up several lines to enable rescue by breeches buoy. All crew members were saved, but the vessel was a total loss when the waves finished pounding her.

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 gled through the snow drifts to the fog signal the sea and attempted to reach the vessel, all arrived to assist bringing the sailor ashore. The station, noticing the vessel aground about 200 to no avail. Finally a large wave lifted the vessel sailors were taken to the fog signal building years beyond the fog signal. His assistant hadn’t and carried it over the ledge and onto the beach where their frozen cloths were cut off and they noticed the wreck. near the fog signal building. Now Hanna was were rubbed with cold water, provided warm The vessel was the Australia bound from able to reach the schooner, but the men were flannel clothes and given ‘stimulants.’ Due to Boothbay Harbor to Boston. Captain J.W. frozen to the rigging where they had lashed their condition and the severity of the storm, Lewis, commanding with a crew of Irving Pierce themselves. Finally, Pierce managed to break the men weren’t moved to the keeper’s house and William Kellar. When the storm hit the free of the rigging and reached the line that until the next morning. A few days later the vessel around midnight, Captain Lewis decided landed on deck. He tied it around his waist the body of the skipper washed ashore near the fog to run for Portland. But as visibility became leaped overboard into the churning sea. Hanna, signal building. very reduced his mate suggested that they sick and weak, somehow managed to pull the In 1885, Keeper Marcus Hanna was awarded stand off and heave to awaiting the storm to crewman in to the shore and over the rocks. the Gold Life Saving metal by the government, abate. However, the storm shredded the main- Hanna later stated he didn’t know where he “…for singular heroism involving great peril to sail. They then began to tack using the reefed got the strength, “…to push and pull the help- his life.” Ten years later, in 1895, Hanna was foresail. The temperature continued to drop less frozen lump of humanity to a place out of belatedly awarded the Congressional Medal of and the vessel began to ice up. Then the crew reach of the surf. The expression on his face I Honor for his heroism in the Civil War, thus was forced to jettison the deck cargo, but to no shall not soon forget.” becoming the only person to win both of these avail and Australia grounded on a ledge below The ship was beginning to break up. medals. the lighthouse. Shortly after they grounded a Crewman Kellar had by now freed himself from The Board reported in their 1887 Report huge wave crashed onto the deck knocking the the rigging. Keeper Hanna waded into the surf that the old frame fog signal building was Captain down, followed by another that washed with very little strength left. He managed to replaced by a new brick structure 32 feet by him overboard where he drowned. At about get the line aboard the vessel after several tries 32 feet, a water cistern was also installed and that time the crew saw Keeper Hanna and his where Kellar tied it around his waist. Although the old boiler was transferred from the frame assistant approaching. Hanna had fashioned a Hanna wasn’t sure he had the strength to pull building which was sold at auction. Two years throwing line (rope) with a wrench for weight. him ashore he shouted for him to jump. At that later the Annual Report mentions repairs to He sent his assistant for help and he waded into moment Assistant Staples and two neighbors the siren engine, construction of an oil house

USCG Cutter Marcus Hanna, named for the keeper at Cape Elizabeth. The vessel is a 175-foot “Keeper Class” buoy tender/ice breaker, based in South Portland, ME. Photo courtesy of U. S. Coast Guard.

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006 (to house the volatile kerosene) and that the cials, the Service prevailed and all multi-tower wished to do with the dwelling. He initially property was surveyed and boundaries properly stations were converted to single towers. Cape stated that the exterior would remain about the marked and fenced. “This boundary (the board Elizabeth’s western tower was extinguished in same. Then it was announced that the struc- said) has long been disputed by the adjoining 1924. There really hasn’t been a need for multi ture would be razed, but the scrollwork on the proprietor, who tore down a part of the fence. towers for years, and it’s a wonder that they eaves would be retained. In the end even that He is to be tried for trespass before the United lasted so far into the 20th century. architectural detail was lost. States Court in Portland, ME, in August.” The western tower was stripped of its lantern Today, the western tower displays a faux lan- In 1890, the old stone dwelling, occupied by during World War II, and after the war it was tern room and is attached to a modern dwelling. the 2nd assistant, was torn down and a framed abandoned and began to deteriorate. In 1959, The eastern tower is in excellent condition, but dwelling 13 by 30 feet in plan, with an ell 12 much of the station was offered to the highest the 2nd order lens has been removed and is on by 20 feet was constructed on the old founda- bidder. Except for the eastern tower, the entire display in the Cape Elizabeth Town Hall. A tion. A temporary wooden house built for the property of 10.5 acres, western tower, four two- modern optic is in place in the lantern room workmen was removed and a call bell system story buildings, eight one-story buildings, two sending out its fifteen second characteristic of was installed between the watch rooms and garages, two antenna masts and even the flag .3 seconds flash followed by 2.2 second eclipse, the dwellings. pole went at auction. At that time, Gary Mer- repeated twice, then .3 seconds followed by a 1891 Annual Report: “Until the resignation rill and his wife, Bette Davis, were looking for 7.2 second eclipse. of the principle keeper, about two years ago, property in the Portland area. The one Gary And, although the lighthouse is still known his wife was an assistant keeper, so that there found, high on a promontory was too isolated as “Twin Lights” and is located near Twin were but three families to be accommodated in for Davis. When they inquired about a vacant Lights State Park, it is no longer a Twin Light, the three single dwellings at this station. The lot in Cape Elizabeth they were informed that that was many years ago. arrangement is changed and there are now the lighthouse property was available and they four separate families at the station, and two purchased the portion that included the western families are crowded into a dwelling adapted in tower and a dwelling. When they divorced the size and arrangement to only one family. The following year Merrill kept the property. He towers are more than 900 feet apart: two of lived in the dwelling and had plans to renovate the dwellings are near the northeast and one the tower into a vertical residence. A reporter near the southwest tower. A fourth dwelling is for Yankee Magazine interviewed him in 1974 very urgently needed near the latter to properly and was told of Merrill’s plans at that time, and conveniently house in the severe winter which apparently never came to fruition. weather of that climate the second of the two In 1994, the owner of the eastern dwelling, assistants who attends the light in it….an addi- close by the eastern tower, offered it for sale tional dwelling is imperatively needed in the through the realtor Landvest for $465,000. best interests of the service. It is estimated that It was listed as being built in 1864 (in fact it one can be built for $3,300…” The request for was constructed in 1873), a two and one-half an additional dwelling was repeated in 1892, 93, story structure renovated in 1979. It had two 94 and 95, but the estimated cost was dropped bedrooms, one full and two half baths, living to $2,000. However it wasn’t approved and the room, kitchen, fireplace, library and updated Board continued to repeat the request annually kitchen. The property sold and the new owner raising the estimate to $3,000 in 1899. Finally, announced plans to remove modern additions, the Board took other action and in the 1901 enlarge the house to contain six bedrooms, Report stated, “The west keeper’s dwelling was construct a garage alongside the dwelling and enlarged and rearranged to provide two sets of removed the garage under the house. A town quarters for the first and third assistants. The hall meeting was held to discuss the changes. second assistants dwelling was repaired and Some local residents complained the renova- improved. The covered way to the west tower tions would block their view of the lighthouse. was rebuilt: the old covered way was moved and Many lighthouse preservationists wanted little converted into a fuel house…” exterior changes as the dwelling and the eastern In 1915, the fuel for the Twin Lights was tower was the subject of an 1920 painting by changed from kerosene to an I.O.V. (incandes- Edward Hopper and pictured on a U. S. postage cent oil vapor) lamp which greatly increased the stamp. Although the house had been altered candlepower. In 1920, the Lighthouse Service over the years it still displayed the basic silhou- announced that all multi-tower stations would ette of an 1864 wood frame house typical of be reduced to a single tower. As before, strong those constructed by the Lighthouse Service. protests were voiced in some instances and The gingerbread (scrollwork) remained. Cape Elizabeth was no exception. In spite of the Finally, residents learned there was no legal numerous letters to local, state and federal offi- means of halting anything the new owner

Reprinted from The Keeper’s Log – Summer, 2006