tuscan foodie guide by Giulia Scarpaleggia
A personal insight on my Tuscany, off the beaten tracks. An absolutely incomplete and every day developing list of my favorite restaurants, dreamland agriturismi and beloved producers.
Tuscany MINI GUIDES on my blog Ditta Artigianale Ristorante Pesce d’Oro Everything about coffee! One day in Florence, my city guide On the shores of Chiusi Lake, at the Pesce d’Oro you can ————— Antique market and where to eat a good panino in Florence enjoy the typical gastronomy of the area, the tasty lake fish Via dei Neri 32/R, Firenze The Florentine street Food, panino al lampredotto and the famous brustico, an historical recipe for a roast fish Tel. +39 055 274 1541 My favorite gelaterias in Florence and in the nearby towns on lake reeds. www.dittaartigianale.it A day trip to Greve in Chianti, Florence ————— The farmers’ market in Greve in Chianti Località Sbarchino 36, 53043 Chiusi (Siena) Tel. +39 0578 21403 Pescheria San Pietro www.ristorantepescedoro.it A fish restaurant as well as a cocktail bar; it’s a cozy and welcoming place, where you can eat, drink and chat. MY FAVORITE RESTAURANTS ————— Ristorante la Parata Via Alamanni 7/R, 50123 Firenze Cucinarcantando Pay a visit to this nice restaurant to taste some of the best Tel. +39 055 2382749 www.pescheriasanpietro.it A excellent fresh organic self-service restaurant with wi-fi pici of Valdorcia. and a relaxed atmosphere. ————— ————— Piazza del Moretto 40, 53027 Bagno Vignoni (Siena) Via Gracco del Secco 11, 53034 Colle di Val d’Elsa, Siena Tel. +39 0577 887508 Mago Balducci Tel. +39 0577 922250 Cozy little bar where to have a lunch on the go or an www.cucinarcantando.com aperitivo. Bar-Ucci di Volpaia ————— If riding you bike or motorbike or driving your car through Via Guglielmo Marconi 24, Firenze Sbarbacipolla Biosteria Chianti, stop in this typical bar. Cold cuts and cheese are +39 339 602 2689 Natural low environmental impact cuisine – Tuscan recipes the best options in this bar, run by a DOCG chiantigiana. with organic, sustainable, seasonal and local ingredients. ————— My favourite place ever. Piazza della Torre, 9 Trattoria Sabatino ————— Volpaia – Radda in Chianti (Siena) Rustic traditional trattoria where you will find mostly locals. Piazza Bartolomeo Scala, 53034 Colle di Val d’Elsa (Siena) Tel. +39 0577 738042 Simple inexpensive food, generous portions. Tel. +39 0577 926701 www.bar-ucci.it ————— www.biosteria-sbarbacipolla.it Via Pisana 2R, 50143 Firenze Tel. +39 055 225955 Podere Il Casale www.trattoriasabatino.it Bar dell’Orso Organic family run cheese farm set in the hills around A crossroad bar under the Medioeval towers of Pienza. Book a visit, a cheese tasting or a lunch there, as Monteriggioni. Try the amazing selection of cold cuts and you can not miss their unique pecorino di Pienza. Osteria Staccia Buratta home-made vegetables in oil, do not miss porchetta ————— Tiny Tuscan osteria just outside Florence. ————— Via Podere Il Casale 64, Pienza (Siena) ————— Via Cassia Nord 23, 53035 Monteriggioni (Siena) Tel. +39 0578 755109 Via di Pulicciano 22, 50012 Antella (Firenze) Tel. +39 0577 305074 www.podereilcasale.com Tel. +39 055 621643 www.bardellorso.com Il Quartino Antica Macelleria Falorni Ristorante la Speranza Cucina povera at its best not far from Florence. Family butcher shop with the best meat of Chianti. You can The perfect stop for a Florentine beef rib steak and a large ————— also have a quick lunch here. selection of grill meat. You’ll see the fireplace roaring as Piazza Spartaco Lavagnini, 12/14 ————— soon as you step into the restaurant. 50019 Sesto Fiorentino (Firenze) Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 71, Greve in Chianti (Firenze) ————— Tel. +39 055 440659 Tel. +39 055 853029 Località La speranza 53034, Colle di Val d’elsa (Siena) www.iquartino.it www.falorni.it Tel. +39 0577 929696
Last update: January 2016 © Tuscan Foodie Guide | Juls’ Kitchen by Giulia Scarpaleggia Il Vecchio Mulino Here you can taste the hearty food of Garfagnana. ————— Via Vittorio Emanuele 12, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana Ristoro La Sorgente (Lucca) Up in the mountain in the Argentario peninsula. Honest food Carabè Tel. +39 0583 62192 from Maremma, you eat outside underneath century old One of my favorite gelaterias in Florence. Try pistachio www.vecchiomulino.info trees. Self-service, for families. gelato or its famous granita. ————— ————— Strada Provinciale Del Convento, Convento Padri Via Ricasoli 60/r, Firenze Canuleia Trattoria Passionisti, 58019 Monte Argentario (Grosseto) Tel. +39 055 289476 Tel. +39 0564 818770 www.gelateriacarabe.it The restaurant serves excellent local food with a fresh www.ristorolasorgente.it intake. Don’t miss the inner garden, ask to be seated there if the season is good. ————— Gelateria Roberto Via Canuleia 14, 55100 Lucca I Pescatori If you want to taste a fabulous Crema Buontalenti, this is the Tel. +39 0583 467470 Another laid-back self-service restaurant. Tables outside, place to go. www.canuleiatrattoria.it fish from the lagoon, good prices and generous portions. ————— ————— Via Giovan Filippo Mariti 3, Firenze Via Giacomo Leopardi 9, 58015 Orbetello (Grosseto) Tel. +39 055 366994 MAS 500 - Pesca Turismo Tel. +39 0564 860611 www.ristoranteipescatori.it Spend a few hours on a boat fishing and enjoy fresh caught fish and authentic food. An unforgettable experience. Cremeria Corradini ————— Probably the best ice-cream I have ever tasted. Very Darsena Toscana - Piazzale Don Sirio Politi, Viareggio crowded after dinner in Summer, you might have to wait for one hour or more. Unusual flavours, as Chianti or pine nuts (Lucca) GELATERIE Moreno +39 346-0443889 and champagne. Enrico +39 347-1662627 ————— Gelateria Dondoli Corso della Libertà 45, Castiglione Della Pescaia (Grosseto) Famous as the world’s best gelateria, it is always extremely La Pecora Nera crowded. Go there after 6pm to enjoy the gelato and the Elegant restaurant where you always feel welcomed. town. Try one the best flavours. Rosemary baby. Gelateria Le Logge Renowned for the fish options. ————— Natural ice-cream, interesting flavors. Unmissable. ————— Piazza Cisterna, 4, 53037 San Gimignano SI, Italia ————— Via San Martino 18, 51016 Montecatini Terme (Pistoia) Tel. +39 0577 942244 Corso Italia, Orbetello (Grosseto) Tel. +39 0572 70331 www.gelateriadipiazza.com www.ercoliniesavi.it Gelateria Buekke FUN Ristorante Il Bucaniere In the neighborhood where I used to go to school as a child Il Bucaniere has an essential architectural line, outstretched in Colle Val d’Elsa, the ice-cream is seasonal and creamy. towards the sea. It is a unique place where the sunset Try pine nut. Bahia Café becomes an unmatched sight. Fulvietto serves the freshest ————— A little beach at 30 minutes from Florence. local fish. Via Fratelli Bandiera 81 - Località Gracciano, Colle di Val ————— ————— d’Elsa (Siena) Via Gastone Nencini, 50031 Barberino di Mugello (Firenze) Viale Guglielmo Marconi, 57027 San Vincenzo (Livorno) Tel. +39 340 3546448 Tel. 338 392 7974 Tel. +39 335 8001695 www.gelateriabuekke.com www.bahiacafe.com www.ristoranteilbucaniere.com
Last update: January 2016 © Tuscan Foodie Guide | Juls’ Kitchen by Giulia Scarpaleggia SLEEPING IN A DREAM Azienda Agricola La Carraia Agriturismo Il Rigo Agriturismo Saudon Local food, great view on Lunigiana. The best extra virgin olive oil, made with heart and passion A family run agriturismo in the heart of Val d'Orcia. You will ————— ————— feel immediately at home, cuddled by genuine home-made Via Madonna del Monte 7, 54026 Pozzo di Mulazzo (Massa Podere Carraia, 47 food and by a stunning landscape. Carrara) Frazione Petroio ————— Tel. +39 0187 439679 53020 Trequanda (Siena) Località Casabianca, San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena) www.agriturismosaudon.it Tel. +39 0577 665208 Tel. +39 0577 897291 www.agriturismoilrigo.com Agriturismo Luna di Quarazzana Azienda Salcheto An environmentally responsible winery Agriturismo La Petraia Tranquil relaxed place with a homely atmosphere. ————— ————— An enchanted place in the Chianti, excellence at km0. Do Via Nardi 9, 54013 Fivizzano (Massa Carrara) Via di Villa Bianca, 15 not miss the dinner made with the garden produce and the Tel. +39 331 311 1202 53045 Montepulciano (Siena) foraged herbs, served with passion by Susan. www.quarazzana.it Tel +39 0578 799031 ————— www.salcheto.it 53017 Radda In Chianti (Siena) Tel. +39 0577 738582 www.lapetraia.com Agriturismo di là dall'acqua You’ll reach the agriturismo just walking down an Podere Paugnano adventurous road along the river, or helped by the generous Fresh and aged pecorino cheese, with animal and vegetable rennet Fattoria Poggio Alloro owner. A peaceful little place. Food is great! ————— ————— An organic agriturismo where you can find wine, meat, olive Via Ponte, 54013 Fivizzano (Massa Carrara) Podere Paugnano, 33 oil and cereals. Tel. +39 348 772 2748 Radicondoli (Siena) ————— www.agriturismodiladallacqua.it Tel. +39 0577 793027 Via S. Andrea, 23 www.poderepaugnano.it 53037 San Gimignano (Siena) Tel. +39 0577 950153 www.fattoriapoggioalloro.com MY LOVED PRODUCERS Birrificio San Gimignano The San Gimignano brewery produces organic beers which Agriturismo Il Caggio di Sotto gather in a bottle all the aromas, tastes and history of San In the heart of Tuscany, in a relaxing and homely Macelleria Capocasa Luciano Gimignano, Siena and Chianti. atmosphere The best and tastiest local meet, my family butcher. ————— ————— ————— Via Sardegna 2, 53036 Poggibonsi (Siena) Loc. Il Caggio di Sotto, 26 - Lano, 53034 Colle di Val d'Elsa Via Fratelli Bandiera, 91 Tel. +39 334 910 4674 (SI) 53034 Colle di Val d’Elsa (Siena) www.birrificiosangimignano.it Tel. +39 0577 971255 Tel. +39 0577 92918 www.caggiodisotto.com Frantoio Pruneti Valdirose B&B Azienda Agricola Casamonti For over a century Azienda Agricola PRUNETI had been Irene turns a romantic dream into reality. Enjoy a B&B where The local Cinta senese, extra virgin olive oil and wine farming its own land in San Polo, in the heart of Chianti you’ll feel at home from the very first moment, where the ————— Classico. generous home made breakfasts are the perfect start of the Località Casamonti ————— day. Castellina in Chianti (Siena) Via dell’Oliveto, 24 - 50022 San Polo in Chianti (Firenze) ————— Tel +39 0577740380 Tel.: +39 055 8555091 Via Valdirose 35, 50055 Lastra a Signa Firenze www.cintasenese.com www.pruneti.it Irene Berni +39 335 8765094 cintasenese.blogspot.it www.valdirose.com
Last update: January 2016 © Tuscan Foodie Guide | Juls’ Kitchen by Giulia Scarpaleggia MY LOVED PRODUCERS
Puscina A young company, a specialized lab for production of wild flowers and antique flower varieties. They organize events, workshops and uniques experiences. Stop by to visit the farm, you’ll be conquered by its wild beauty. ————— Podere Puscina 65, SS146, Montefollonico, Torrita di Siena (Siena) Tel. 320 6824352 www.puscina.com
Savini Tartufi The truffle, a family passion. ————— Piazza C. D’Ascanio – Località Montanelli 53036 Forcoli (Pisa) Tel. +39 0587 628037 www.savinitartufi.it
Buccellato Taddeucci The first and most famous manufacturer of the Buccellato in Lucca. ————— Piazza S. Michele 34 55100 Lucca Tel. +39 0583 494933 www.taddeucci.com
You can search these places on TripAdvisor and Yelp for a complete review.
Last update: January 2016 © Tuscan Foodie Guide | Juls’ Kitchen by Giulia Scarpaleggia