The Perfect Gentleman by MagdaLaine

MagdaLaine – Dolly Delights ♡ The Perfect Gentleman – March 2019 ♡ Page 1/20

Materials: Yarn for the doll:  Stylecraft Special dk in Soft Peach – about 15gr,  Stylecraft Special dk in White (shirt, underwear, socks) – about 50gr,  Stylecraft Special dk in Grey (suit) – about 100gr,  Stylecraft Special dk in Silver (vest) – about 10gr,  Stylecraft Batik dk in Graphite (vest) – about 10gr,  Stylecraft Special dk in Black (shoes) – about 15gr,  Stylecraft Special dk in Cream (spats) – about 5gr, :  DollyMo Lang Yarn Mohair in Black – about 15gr; Also:  any yarn leftover in Charcoal for eyes All parts are knitted flat. Other: needles: 3mm(UK11/US3), 3.25mm(UK10/US3) circular; crochet hook: 3.25mm (UK 11/US D); tapestry needle, stitch holders, stitch markers, regular sewing needle; a pair of 10mm teddy eyes (optional); a bendy roller for the neck support (16.5cm/6.5’’ long and 1.6cm/5/8’’ in diameter); toy stuffing or any ordinary pillow washable filling; 4 small buttons for the vest in a matching colour; 2 silver shank buttons for the jacket; 1 small fabric flower of your choice for the button hole; a scrap of cream ribbon 1.5cm/5/8’’ wide; about 0.5m/20’’ of narrow (1cm/3/8’’ wide) black ribbon for the bow tie; about 0.5m/20’’ of wider (1.5-2cm/5/8’’ – 1’’wide) black ribbon for the hat; a small round charm for the pocket watch and some old chain to go with it (optional); fabric glue; super glue (optional for gluing the metal elements of the pocket watch);

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Abbreviations used: CO – cast on, K – knit, P – purl, BO – bind off, 3NBO – 3 needle bind off, K2tg – knit 2 stitches together, decrease, P2tg – purl 2 stitches together, decrease, ssk – slip one st as if to knit and then the 2nd one as if to knit and then knit them together through the backs of their loops, decrease, skpo – slip one st as if to knit, knit one st, pass the slipped st over the knitted one; decrease, cdd (center double decrease) – slip first 2 stitches together, k-wise as if you were to knit them together, knit third stitch, pass slipped stitches over, decrease, Kfb – knit to the front and back of the loop, increase, Pfb – purl to the front and back of the loop, increase, M1 – make 1 stitch, pick up strand between stitch just worked and next stitch on left hand needle and knit into back of it; increase, psso – pass the slipped stitch over, plM – place marker, slM – slip marker, R – row, usually followed by the number of row, St-st – stockinette stitch, sl – slip the stitch, when on K row-slip knitwise, when on P row-slip purlwise, [....] – repeat instructions in these brackets (followed by x), sometimes I also keep groups of sts together for the ease of following the pattern, F – flat, ITR – in the round, RHN/LHN – right hand needle/left hand needle, Crochet terminology: UK

Remember to read the whole pattern before you knit

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Head: The seam should run in the middle of the back of the head. All the increase and decreases are on the sides. If you want to use teddy eyes, attach them before you sew the head to the torso. The eyes are placed slightly above the middle of the head. If you wish to embroider the eyes, stuff the head fully. Leave facial features till the very end. Head circumference at the widest point should Worked from the bottom - up. be around 24.5cm/9.75''. Needles: 3mm Ears: In Soft Peach CO 18 sts  K 1 row  P 1 row  [K2, Kfb]x6 24sts  P all  [K2, m1]x5, K1, m1, K2, m1, K1, [m1, K2]x5 36sts  P all  K4, m1, K5, (m1, K1, m1), K5, m1, K6, m1,

K5, (m1, K1, m1), K5, m1, K4 44sts  P all Needles: 3mm  K11, m1, K1, m1, K20, m1, K1, m1, K1148sts In Soft Peach CO 4 sts  Work 5 rows in st-st starting with P row  [Kfb, K1]x2 6sts  K12, m1, K1, m1, K22, m1, K1, m1, K12  P all 52sts  Kfb, K3, Kfb, K1 8sts  Work 7 rows in st-st starting with P row  P all st (eyes placement on the 1 row)  K all  K11, ssk, K1, K2tg, K20, ssk, K1, K2tg, K11  P2tg, P4, P2tgtbl 6sts 48sts  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row  ssk, K2, K2tg 4sts  K4, K2tg, K4, (ssk, K1, K2tg), K4, ssk, K6,  BO K2tg, K4, (ssk, K1, K2tg), K4, ssk, K4 40sts Make 4 of these. Then, with WS facing sew 2 of  P all them together with a whip stitch taking only  K8, ssk, K1, K2tg, K14, ssk, K1, K2tg, K8 barely half a stitch from each ear. 36sts Don't sew the ears to the head yet. You will do  P all this when you are making facial features and  K7, ssk, K1, K2tg, K12, ssk, K1, K2tg, K7 hairstyle. 32sts  P all  [K2tg]x16 16sts  P all  [K2tg]x8 8sts  Break yarn and pull the tail through remaining stitches, fasten off and pull it to the WS

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Body:  K7, m1, [K13, m1]x3, K6 56sts  P 1 row  K 2 rows (waist line)  Work 6 rows in st-st starting with K row  K6, K2tg, [K12, K2tg]x3, K6 52sts  P all  K5, K2tg, [K11, K2tg]x3, K6 48sts  P all  K5, K2tg, [K10, K2tg]x3, K5 44sts  P all  K4, K2tg, [K9, K2tg]x3, K5 40sts  P all Worked from the top - down.  K4, K2tg, [K8, K2tg]x3, K4 36sts Needles: 3mm  P all In Soft Peach CO 20 sts - leave long end, you  K3, K2tg, [K7, K2tg]x3, K4 32sts will use it when sewing the head and the body  P all together  K3, K2tg, [K6, K2tg]x3, K3 28sts  P all  K 1 row  K2, K2tg, [K5, K2tg]x3, K3 24sts  P 1 row  P all Change to White  K2tg till end 12sts  K3, m1, [K5, m1]x3, K2 24sts  Break yarn, pull through remaining sts,  K 1 row (mark with an open st marker P tighten and secure and sew the seam. bump number 13)

 K 1 row  P 1 row  K3, m1, [K6, m1]x3, K3, 28sts The seam runs down through the middle of the  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row back. All the increase and decreases are on the  K4, m1, [K7, m1]x3, K3 32sts sides as marked in the photo with red arrows.  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row Collar:  K4, m1, [K8, m1]x3, K4 36sts  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row  K5, m1, [K9, m1]x3, K4 40sts  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row  K5, m1, [K10, m1]x3, K5 44sts  P all  K6, m1, [K11, m1]x3, K5 48sts  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row

 K6, m1, [K12, m1]x3, K6 52sts  P all Worked from the bottom – up Needles: 3mm MagdaLaine – Dolly Delights ♡ The Perfect Gentleman – March 2019 ♡ Page 5/20

In White CO 24sts – leave a long end to sew the collar to the bump ridge in the torso  (WS) sl1, P1, Pfb, P3, [P2, Pfb, P3]x3 28sts  sl1, K rest  sl1, P rest  sl1, K1, m1, K25, m1, K1  BO – when you reach the last loop, do not put the yarn end through it to finish off, but instead pull that end. Then, put the roller inside the torso and gently Now starting with the marked P bump in the add more stuffing around the roller, pushing it torso sew the collar to this edge all the way down to make sure the torso is well and firmly around it. stuffed. Guide the stuffing downwards with the Stuff the body until it is about 27.5cm/11'' in needle, from the outside. circumference. Now, weave in the CO end of the torso, around Joining the head to the torso its opening to tighten it and close it.

Now, stuff the head well, round it and then When joining the head and the body/torso make the tunnel for the roller. Put the head on together the inserted roller will stop the head the roller. from flopping down and becoming wobbly. No matter what colours are used, the torso and Gently add more stuffing around the entrance. head are always joined in the same way. In the photos below, you can see a plain torso and head joining.

Close the head as you did with the top of the These are my bendy hair rollers. I used 1 of torso and sew the two parts together. them for the neck support. As you are sewing try to make sure NOT to Make a tunnel in the stuffing of the torso. Put twist the head and keep the side your finger inside and then with the needle increases/decreases in the head on the side of guide the stuffing away to make sure the roller the doll. goes at least half way in.

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 CO4, P all 26sts  K all  P all  [K1, K2tg, K7, K2tg, K1]x2 22sts  P all  [K1, K2tg]x3, K2tg, ssk, [ssk, K1]x3 14sts  P all  K6, Kfb, K7 15sts  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row – When you are finished, with your needle move cut off yarn the stuffing inside to shape the head nicely. Shirt Cuffs Now, pin the collar to the head so that it can Needles: 3mm keep its shape while you are making the rest of In White CO 22sts – leave a long end to sew the the doll. seam of the arm  Work 5 rows in st-st starting with P row  [K2tg, K9]x2 20sts  P all  [K1, K2tg, K1]x5 15sts  P all – do not cut yarn Joining row Now you are going to join the cuff with the hand and continue with the rest of the arm, in Arms: White. Hold your pieces in such a way that the hand is behind the cuff, both with RS facing you. You should have the cuff on Front Needle and the hand on Back Needle or stitch holder - insert working needle into 1st st on FN and 1st st on BN and the K 2 together therefore joining cuff and hand - work like this until you have all 15 sts joined Arms are worked in two stages: The above row will look as follows: - first palm is knitted and kept aside on a stitch holder or a spare needle  [K2tg]x15 - then the shirt cuffs are knitted and joined Continue in White as follows: with it  Work 25 rows in st-st starting with P row Worked from the fingers - up.  ssk, K till 2 sts left, K2tg Needles: 3mm  P2tg, P till 2 sts left, P2tgtbl In Soft Peach CO 10 sts - leave long end, you  K all will use it to sew the seam of the palm  P2tg, P till 2 sts left, P2tgtbl  P 1 row  ssk, K till 2 sts left, K2tg 7sts  [K1, m1, K3, m1, K1] x2 14sts  Bind off - leave long end, you will use it to  P all sew the arm to the body.  K1, m1, K5, m1, K2, m1, K5, m1, K1 18sts Make two.  Work 5 rows in st-st starting with P row My finished arm, is about 14.5cm/5.75'' long.  CO4, K all 22sts

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Join the seams, and stuff the arm. Attach the  P all arms to the body about 2cm/0.75''below the  [Kfb] till end 48sts joining of the body and head.  Work 6 rows in st-st starting with P row  K 1 row  Work 8 rows in st-st starting with K row  K8, [K2tg]x16, K8 32sts  P all  K7, [K2tg]x9, K7 23sts  P all  K8, K2tg, K3, K2tg, K8 21sts  P all  K9, K2tg, K10 20sts Legs:  Work 9 rows in st-st starting with P row  P 1 row Change to Soft Peach  Work 27 rows in st-st starting with P row Change to White  K 2 rows  Work 4 rows in st-st starting with K row  BO - leave a long end and use it to sew the leg to the body later

Before you knit: This doll has plastic inserts in the sole of the feet to make them flat but they can be knitted without them. To prepare the oval plastic shapes you will need some plastic like from the margarine/butter spread containers or plastic milk bottles; something hard enough to keep the shape but also soft enough that you can cut it. Draw 2 rectangulars 5cm/8cm (2’’/3.5’’) and then curve their corners with scissors to achieve an oval shape. It is best done when you have the sole knitted up to the P row, so that you can adjust the curve to your actual knitted piece.

red arrows indicate the decrease lines Sewing the legs to the torso – method

Worked from toes - up. Use the photos below as a guide for sewing legs Needles: 3mm to the torso. The same method is used when In White CO 24 sts sewing the arms to the sides of the torso.

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Always try to grab 2 lines of a stitch on each Trousers: side for a neat joining.

Worked bottom – up, first the two legs separately then joined to work together; the slipped sts create the creases in the legs of the trousers Needles: 3.25mm In Grey CO 42 sts  P all  K all  P 3 rows (the middle row will create ridge)  K10, sl1, K20, sl1, K10  P all In the next row you will be joining the folded hem together with the rest of knitting. If you prefer, you can omit this step, simply Knit this row and sew the hem later.  Joining Knit Row:  fold the hem, then  pick up a loop with RHN from CO edge to the front onto LHN, then  K2tg  continue until you have all sts joined

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R12: P all R13: K7, sl1, K9, K2tg, K9, sl1, K14, sl1, K9, ssk, K9, sl1, K7 70sts R14: P all R15: [K7, sl1, K19, sl1, K7]x2 R16: P all R17: K7, sl1, K9, K2tg, K8, sl1, K14, sl1, K8, ssk, K9, sl1, K7 68sts R18: P all R19: [K7, sl1, K18, sl1, K7]x2 R20: P all R21: K6, cdd, K16, cdd, K12, cdd, K16, cdd, K6 60sts R22: P all R23: K5, cdd, K14, cdd, K10, cdd, K14, cdd, K5 52sts R24: P all R25: [K5, sl1, K14, sl1, K5]x2 R26: P all  BO

 P all  *K10, sl1, K20, sl1, K10  P all*  Work the above 2 rows 14 times more  [m1, K10, sl1, K10]x2 44sts  P all  [K11, sl1, K10]x2  P all  [K11, sl1, k10, m1]x2 46sts Sew up all the seams and weave in all loose  P all – cut off yarn ends. Put this leg on a spare needle and make the 2nd Vest: one. When you have the two legs done, put them onto one needle – 92sts. Work as follows: R1: [K2tg, K9, sl1, K22, sl1, K9, ssk]x2 88sts R2: [P2tgtbl, P40, P2tg]x2 84sts R3: [K2tg, K7, sl1, K22, sl1, K7, ssk]x2 80sts R4: [P2tgtbl, P36, P2tg]x2 76sts R5: K7, sl1, K9, K2tg, K11, sl1, K14, sl1, K11, ssk, K9, sl1, K7 74sts R6: P all R7: [K7, sl1, K21, sl1, K7]x2 R8: P all Worked with 2 colours at the same time: R9: K7, sl1, K9, K2tg, K10, sl1, K14, sl1, K10,  Silver, front and back about 5gr per side, ssk, K9, sl1, K7 72sts work one side from skein, the other R10: P all from bobbin R11: [K7, sl1, K20, sl1, K7]x2

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 Graphite for the back, work from skein, before you BO the 4th st, change yarn to about 10gr Graphite and finish off BO. I kept instructions for the back in { } and in For the second armhole work in the same way, purple. Remember to twist yarns when changing but you begin your BO with Graphite and finish colours to prevent holes. with Silver. Needles: 3.25mm In Silver CO 15 sts, then In Graphite CO 30sts and In Silver (from bobbin) CO 15sts 60sts  (WS) [P2, K1, P2]x3, {P30}, [P2, K1, P2]x3  sl1, m1, K till 1 st left, m1, K1 62sts  sl1, K1, P till 2 sts left, K1, P1  sl1, m1, K till 1 st left, m1, K1 64sts  sl1, K1, P till 2 sts left, K1, P1  (RS) sl1, m1, K3, [P1, K4]x2, P1, K2, {K30}, K2, [P1, K4]x2, P1, K3, m1, K1 66sts

 sl1, K1, P till 2 sts left, K1, P1  sl1, K1, yo, K2tg, K14, {K10, [P2, K2]x2, P2,  sl1, K11, BO8, {K15}, BO8, K11 (armholes) K10}, K18 (1st button hole) Now you have:  sl1, K1, P16, {P10, [K2, P2]x2, K2, P10}, P16, 12sts (front), 16sts (back), 12 sts (front) K1, P1  sl1, K17, {K10, [P2, K2]x2, P2, K10}, K18 You will continue with each part separately.  (WS) sl1, K1, P3, [K1, P4]x2, K1, P2, {P10, Left Front (WS facing-side with buttons) [K2, P2]x2, K2, P10}, P2, [K1, P4]x2, K1, P3,  sl1, K1, P10 K1, P1  (RS) sl1, ssk, K3, P1, K5 11sts  sl1, K17, {K10, [P2tg, K2]x2, P2tg, K10}, K18  sl1, K1, P9 63sts  sl1, K10  sl1, K1, P16, {P10, [K1, P2]x2, K1, P10}, P16, 10sts K1, P1  sl1, P2tg, P8  sl1, K1, yo, K2tg, K14, {K10, [P1, K2]x2, P1,  sl1, K6, K2tg, K1 9sts K10}, K18 (2nd button hole)  sl1, P2tg, K1, P5 8sts  sl1, K1, P16, {P10, [K1, P2]x2, K1, P10}, P16,  sl1, K4, K2tg, K1 7sts K1, P1  sl1, P2tg, P4 6sts  (RS) sl1, K4, [P1, K4]x2, P1, K2, {K10, [K2tg,  sl1, K2, K2tg, K1 5sts K1]x2, K2tg, K9}, K2, [P1, K4]x3, K1 60sts  *sl1, P4  sl1, K1, P16, {P24}, P16, K1, P1  sl1, K4*  sl1, K6, ssk, K3, ssk, K4, {K24}, K4, K2tg, K3,  Work the above 2 rows 1 more time K2tg, K7 56sts  sl1, P4  sl1, K1, P14, {P24}, P14, K1, P1  BO or 3NBO  sl1, K1, yo, K2tg, K12, {K24}, K16 Right Front (WS facing-side with button holes) (3rd button hole) If you have a lot of yarn on your bobbin, make  (WS) sl1, K1, [P3, K1]x3, P2, {P24}, P2, [K1, sure you have only about 2m left. Put the end P3]x3, K1, P1 through the sewing needle with large eye and  sl1, K15, {K24}, K16 weave this end on WS closer to the beginning  sl1, K1, P14, {P24}, P14, K1, P1 of the next row. Work as follows: Now you will BO 8 sts for armholes, 4 falls in  sl1, P9, K1, P1 Silver and 4 in Graphite. Make sure you use  (RS) sl1, K1, yo, K2tg, K1, P1, K3, K2tg, K1 th both colours, and so: BO 3 in Silver, you will (4 button hole) 11sts have the last loop (st) in Silver to BO and so  sl1, P8, K1, P1  sl1, K10

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 sl1, P7, P2tgtbl, P1 10sts You can either BO the shoulders and then sew  sl1, ssk, K7 9sts them together or join the together, RS facing  sl1, P5, P2tgtbl, P1 8sts using 3 Needle Bind Off method.  sl1, ssk, K5 7sts Sew 4 small buttons at the front of the vest.  sl1, P3, P2tgtbl, P1 6sts Shoes with spats:  sl1, ssk, K3 5sts  *sl1, P4  sl1, K4*  Work the above 2 rows 1 more time  sl1, P4  BO or 3NBO Back (WS facing) Cut off yarn leaving only about 3m left. Put the end through the sewing needle with large eye and weave this end on WS closer to the beginning of the next row. Work as follows: Worked from the bottom (sole) - up  (WS) sl1, P2tg, P10, P2tgtbl, P1 14sts Needles: 3.25mm  *sl1, K13 In Black, CO 24 sts  sl1, P13*  P all  Work the above 2 rows 1 more time  [Kfb] till end 48sts Continue with the back shoulders as follows:  Work 6 rows in st-st starting with P row  K all Right Back  Work 10 rows in st-st starting with K row  (RS) sl1, K6, turn 7sts  sl1, P2tg, P4 6sts Change to Cream – leave a 1.5m long end for a  sl1, K5 little slip stitch border later  sl1, P2tg, P3 5sts  K 2 rows  *sl1, K4  [K1, P1, K1]x16  sl1, P4*  [P1, K1, P1]x16  Work the above 2 rows 1 more time Now, pause knitting, take our 3.25mm crochet  BO or 3NBO hook and pull a loop to the RS. Make a slip Left Back (RS facing, attach yarn) stitch right under the Purl bumps for a better  sl1, K6 7sts definition of the edge of the spat. When  sl1, P3, P2tgtbl, P1 6sts finished, pull yarn back to WS and secure  sl1, K5 together with the Black yarn end.  sl1, P2, P2tgtbl, P1 5sts Now continue as follows:  *sl1, K4  sl1, P4*  [K1, P1, K1]x4, [ssk, K1]x8, [K1, P1, K1]x4 40sts  Work the above 2 rows 1 more time  [P1, K1, P1]x4, P16, [P1, K1, P1]x4  BO or 3NBO  [K1, P1, K1]x4, K16, [K1, P1, K1]x4  [P1, K1, P1]x4, P16, [P1, K1, P1]x4  [K1, P1, K1]x4, [K2tg]x8, [K1, P1, K1]x4 32sts  [P1, K1, P1]x4, P8, [P1, K1, P1]x4  [K1, P1, K1]x4, K8, [K1, P1, K1]x4  [P1, K1, P1]x4, P8, [P1, K1, P1]x4  Stretchy BO as follows:

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 K1, P1, slip the 2 sts back onto LHN wyif Sleeves: and P2tg, Needles: 3.25mm  K1, slip the 2 sts back onto LHN wyib In Grey CO 29 sts and K2tgtbl,  Work 25 rows in st-st starting with P row  K1, slip the 2 sts back onto LHN wyib  BO5, K18, BO5 19sts and K2tgtbl,  P1, slip the 2 sts back onto LHN wyif and Make two. Now make the main body of the P2tg, jacket.  Work like this until you reach the last P Jacket: st in the first half of the shoe, BO it off as Needles: 3.25mm above In Grey CO 76 sts  BO next bundle of K sts as normal, when  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1] you reach next P st  [sl1, K1, P1], K till 3 sts left, [P1, K1, P1]  P1, slip the 2 sts back onto LHN wyif and P2tg,  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1]  Continue stretchy BO till end  P 1 row (ridge)  Finish off  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1]  *[sl1, K1, P1], K till 3 sts left, [P1, K1, P1]  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1]*  Work the above 2 rows in st-st remembering the 3 edge sts on both sides, 6 times more (12 more rows)  [sl1, K1, yo, K2tg], K till 3 sts left, [P1, K1, P1] (1st button hole)  Work 3 rows in st-st remembering the 3 edge sts on both sides and starting with P Jacket: row  [sl1, K1, P1], K5, sl1, K20, sl1, K16, sl1, K20, sl1, K5, [P1, K1, P1]  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1]  [sl1, K1, P1], K5, sl1, K2tg, K16, ssk, sl1, K16, sl1, K2tg, K16, ssk, sl1, K5, [P1, K1, P1] 72sts  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1]  [sl1, K1, yo, K2tg], K4, sl1, K18, sl1, K16, sl1, K18, sl1, K5, [P1, K1, P1] (2nd button hole)  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1]  [sl1, K1, P1], K5, sl1, K18, sl1, K16, sl1, K18, sl1, K5, [P1, K1, P1]  [sl1, P1, K1], P till 3 sts left, [K1, P1, K1] Construction:  sl1, ssk, K5, sl1, K18, sl1, K16, sl1, K18, sl1, Worked bottom – up K5, K2tg, P1 (mark 1st and last st with an There are 3 edge sts on each side of the jacket open st marker) 70sts kept in [ ]. The bottom of the jacket is knitted  sl1, P till 1 st left, K1 in same way as the bottom of the trousers,  sl1, ssk, K4, sl1, K18, sl1, K16, sl1, K18, sl1, except, the folded hem is not joined up by K4, K2tg, P1 68sts knitting but sewn later to keep it less visible.  sl1, P till 1 st left, K1 This is also to make sure that the jacket edge  (RS) sl1, ssk, K3, sl1, K7, BO9, K1, sl1, K16, does not curl up. sl1, K2, BO9, K6, sl1, K3, K2tg, P1 Make the sleeves first.

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Now you should have: Remove st markers as you knit next row 13sts(front)/9sts BO/22sts(back)/9sts  sl1, ssk, K2tg BO/13sts(front) - K2tg, K2, ssk, - K2, ssk, K6, K2tg, K2, On the next row, you will be working the jacket - K2tg, K2, ssk, sts and the 19 sleeve sts. - ssk, K2tg, P1 (cut yarn) 26sts  (WS) sl1, P11, plM, P2tgtbl, P17, P2tg, plM, Lapels P20, plM, P2tgtbl, P17, P2tg, plM, P11, K1 You have 26sts left on the needle around the Now you should have: back neck of the jacket. Now you will begin working on the front lapels 12sts(front)/19sts(sleeve)/20sts(back)/ of the jacket. You will work the lapels in 2 19sts(sleeve)/12sts(front) stages, starting at the back, in the middle, going 82sts to the front, each half separately. Sleeves are joined and you can continue with the jacket. Right side:  sl1, ssk, K2, sl1, K4, K2tg, slM, - K2tg, K15, ssk, slM, - ssk, K16, K2tg, slM, - K2tg, K15, ssk, slM, - ssk, K4, sl1, K2, K2tg, P1 72sts  sl1, P till 1 st left, K1  sl1, ssk, K1, sl1, K5, slM, - K2tg, K13, ssk, slM, - K18, slM, - K2tg, K13, ssk, slM, - K5, sl1, K1, K2tg, P1 66sts  sl1, P till 1 st left, K1  sl1, ssk, sl1, K5, slM, Slip first 13 sts of the jacket for the Right lapel - K2tg, K11, ssk, slM, onto 3.25mm dpn needle and hold these on - K18, slM, your LHN with the jacket’s inside/P side facing - K2tg, K11, ssk, slM, you. - K5, sl1, K2tg, P1 60sts CO 5sts – holding those sts on RHN  sl1, P till 1 st left, K1  sl1, ssk, K1, K2tg, K2, slM, The photo above shows: - K2tg, K9, ssk, slM,  direction of knitting – red arrows - K3, ssk, K8, K2tg, K3, slM,  CO edge – green line - K2tg, K9, ssk, slM,  Neck line sts created by the lapel – curved - K2, ssk, K1, K2tg, P1 50sts pink lines  sl1, P till 1 st left, K1  sl1, ssk, K2tg, K1, slM, - K2tg, K7, ssk, slM, - K2, ssk, K8, K2tg, K2, slM, - K2tg, K7, ssk, slM, - K1, ssk, K2tg, P1 40sts  sl1, P3, slM, - P2tgtbl, P5, P2tg, slM, - P14, slM, - P2tgtbl, P5, P2tg, slM, - P3, K1 36sts

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 K1 – now you have 6sts altogether on RHN,  P1, K1, P3, Pick Up and Purl 1 from the 13 turn sts on circ, turn 6sts  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn  sl1 p-wise, K3, P1, K1, turn  sl1, P1, K3, K2tgtbl, turn  sl1, K1, P3, P2tg, turn  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn  sl1 p-wise, K3, P1, K1, turn  sl1, P1, K3, K2tgtbl, turn  sl1, K1, P3, P2tg, turn  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn  *sl1 p-wise, K3, P1, K1, turn  sl1, P1, K3, K2tgtbl, turn  sl1, K1, P3, P2tg, turn*  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn  Work the above 2 rows 9 times more to join  *sl1, P1, K3, K2tgtbl, turn the remaining 9 sts  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn* Make sure you are getting the same looking  Work the above 2 rows 8 times more to join edge as in the right lapel. the remaining 8 sts Now you will be picking up the inside bar (the Now you will be picking up the outside bar (the one nearer to the RS of the jacket) of the loop of one nearer to the RS of the jacket) of the loop of the slipped sts from the front edge of the jacket the slipped sts from the front edge of the jacket to continue with the lapel. To do that you might to continue with the lapel have to slip the last st temporarily to RHN and  sl1, P1, K3, slip last (6th) st temporarily to then move it back after you have picked up a st. RHN, Pick Up the front bar of the 1st edge st If you are working with dpns, just slide the onto LHN, put the slipped st back on LHN needle to pick up the st with the other end. and then K2tgtbl, turn  sl1 p-wise, K3, P1, K1, turn  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn  BO5 p-wise, Pick Up 1&P2tg, turn  BO5 k-wise, Pick Up 1&K2tgtbl, turn  CO5 single cast on,  CO5 single cast on,  sl1, K1, P3, Pick Up 1&P2tg, turn  K1, P1, K3, Pick Up 1&K2tgtbl, turn  sl1 p-wise, K3, P1, K1, turn  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn  sl1, K1, P3, Pick Up 1&P2tg, turn  sl1, P1, K3, Pick Up 1&K2tgtbl, turn  sl1 p-wise, K3, P1, K1, turn  sl1, P3, K1, P1, turn  sl1, K1, P2tg, P1, Pick Up 1&P2tg, turn 5sts  sl1, P1, ssk, K1, Pick Up 1&K2tgtbl, turn  sl1 p-wise, K2, P1, K1, turn 5sts  sl1, K1, P2tg, Pick Up 1&P2tg, turn 4sts  sl1, P2, K1, P1, turn  sl1 p-wise, K1, P1, K1, turn  sl1, P1, ssk, Pick Up 1&K2tgtbl, turn 4sts  sl1, P1, slip2tg as if to P2tgtbl, Pick Up1&P  sl1, P1, K1, P1, turn it, then pass the 2sts over, turn 3sts  sl1, P1, Pick Up1&cdd, turn 3sts  sl1 p-wise, P1, K1, turn  sl1, K1, P1, turn  sl1, slip2tg as if to P2tgtbl, Pick Up1&P it,  sl1, Pick Up1&cdd, turn 2sts then pass the 2sts over, turn 2sts  sl1, P1, psso 1st  sl1 p-wise, K1, psso 1st  Finish off – attach the last loop after bind off  Finish off to the edge of the jacket. Secure and weave in all loose ends. Left side: Sew the hem at the bottom of the jacket. Go to the back and the 5stitch edge of the Right Lapel (marked in green in the photo above). Hold that narrow edge of the lapel in your hand, RS facing, attach yarn and Pick Up 5sts along this short edge, turn. Your second lot of 13 sts is on a circ needle rd Using a 3 needle (dpn):

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Pockets: of the ribbon and secure with a drop of glue again. Sew 2 button for the jacket. Vest imitation pocket for the pocket watch:

Worked from the bottom - up Needles: 3.25mm In Grey, CO 10sts

 *sl1, K9  sl1, P9* Similarly to the breast pocket, make 2 lines on  Work the above 2 rows 1 more time the front of the vest, using the yarn in Graphite  BO p-wise (the back of the vest) and secure them with some glue. Then attach a little charm on a Make two. chain. I used a little chain sold in charity shops Sew each pocket to the front of the jacket used for wearing around ones ankle. If it is too starting 1 stitch before the ‘dart’ or ‘seam’ long you can snip it with the pliers. Weave the created by the slipped stitch. Attach each rough end to the WS of the vest and secure to pocket with the CO edge at the top and the BO the vest with a drop of glue. Check out the edge at the bottom. As it is a flap over the Internet on how the pocket watches are pocket, sew the top edge only. If you think the attached to the suits vests. pocket is not lying flat and neat enough sew the Hairstyle and facial features: short side edges too. Finishing touches of the suit. The button hole: Slip in through the stitches a step of a little flower, or you can glue on a flower too.

Eyes: Eyes in this doll are placed in little eye sockets. Have a look at my photo tutorial on how to embroider simple dolly eyes in this photo tutorial: Simple Dolly Eyes. The method for The breast pocket beside the lapel: creating the eye sockets is explained below. Fold your scrap of ribbon in 3 and secure it For the , I used the hair yarn. folds with a drop of fabric glue. Then glue this piece onto the jacket as visible in the photo. Next, pull 2 pieces of yarn over the bottom edge

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How to create eye sockets when embroidering your eyes. Mark with a pin a stitch where you are going to embroider the eye as shown in the above tutorial. In my photos, it is marked with blue curved lines. Using same skin colour (I used red to make it clear in the photos) pull a long yarn over that stitch leaving both long ends at the back of the head. Grab the stitch as shown in photos, vertically not horizontally. Two yellow bars in the stitch are marked for you to see where to place red yarn.

Now, pull the 2 ends at the back of the head gently, creating a little eye socket. Tie a knot and secure.

Pull the yarn to the back so that it sits neatly over the stitch.

And this is it. Hide the loose ends of the eye and continue with your doll.

Now, embroider the eye as shown in the above Nose: tutorial. For the nose take a strand of Soft Peach and make a loose single knot and then wind yarn 5 more times into the loop and then tighten gently. You will get an oval shaped knot. I attach it to the face sideways. Hairstyle: For this doll I was trying to obtain a look of a slightly going bald man. (: Firstly, I made a little horizontal hair piece that I sew to the back of the head and then I sew through the head more mohair yarn to make it look like brushed to the back thinning hair from the front. Hair piece: Worked bottom – up

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Needles: 3.25mm Now, with your pins mark the hair line of the In DollyMo CO 20 sts balding forehead.  Work 5 rows in st-st starting with P row  K1, m1, K18, m1, K1 22sts  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row  K1, m1, K20, m1, K1 24sts  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with P row  BO When you have your hair piece done, pin it to the back of the head P side out.

Before you continue, give the mohair piece on the head a little brush down, either with a little brush or a needle tip.

Next you will be sewing through the head to attach long pieces of yarn along the balding top This is what your doll should look like with the of the head. Start in the bottom part to hide piece attached and ears sewn on. Use photos as ends in the already attached hair piece. Look at a guide. the photos below. The red lines mark the rough distribution of the stitches.

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gently and let the mohair fluff stay out. You will be able then to curl it slightly upwards as shown in the photo above. Make the as long as you wish, I did each side over 3 stiches as marked by the red lines.

Now add some rouge on the cheeks and your little gentleman is almost ready (: Hat:

When you are happy with all the hair and the Construction: amount, brush it all gently down again Then cut Worked from the brim – up as one piece. off the excess ‘hair’ specially at the neck. You The brim starts similarly to the bottom of the must be a hairstylist now and do some trousers, except, the folded hem is not joined trimming and styling (: up by knitting but sewn later to keep it less visible, like the jacket. This gives the brim a Moustache: slight curve but does not curve totally as it would if knitted in plain st-st. Needles: 3.25mm In Grey CO 85 sts  P all  K all  P 3 rows (the middle row will create ridge)  Work 3 rows in st-st starting with K row  [P15, P2tg]x5 80sts  K all Using the same mohair hair yarn, you will make  [P6, P2tg]x10 70sts 3 lines for each side of the moustache. Do it  K all

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 [P5, P2tg]x10 60sts Let the hat settle in its shape. To do that find a  P 2 rows glass or a jar or tin that is about 22.5cm-  Work 12 rows in st-st starting with K row 24cm/9-9.5’’ in circumference, similar to the  [K8, K2tg]x6 54sts head of your doll. Put the hat on. This will let  P all the hat settle in its right shape for a while.  [K7, K2tg]x6 48sts  P all  [K6, K2tg]x6 42sts  P all  [K5, K2tg]x6 36sts  P all  [K4, K2tg]x6 30sts  P all  [K3, K2tg]x6 24sts  P all Then glue the black ribbon all around it right  [K2tg]x12 12sts above or on the Purl line. It depends on how  [P2tg]x6 6sts wide your ribbon is, but the Purl line will be  Break yarn and pull through remaining sts, your guide. Let is set. tighten and sew the seam. And now, your gentleman is finished. Add some Weave in all loose ends and sew the brim hem rouge on the cheeks and whatever additional under the hat. Make sure your stitching is a little touches you wish. little visible to the RS as possible.

I hope you enjoyed knitting your Perfect Gentleman (:

Copyright note: This pattern is available for personal and non-profit use only. It may not be used either in whole or in part to produce items for sale. By downloading/printing this pattern you agree with these terms. Thank you.

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