Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1975 Volume.26 No.6

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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1975 Volume.26 No.6 ISSN 0037-9832 V ol 26 No 6 J une 1975 Journal of the Society of Cosm etic Chem ists C o n te n ts Page ORIGINAL SCIENTIFIC PAPERS The relationship between water-borne bacteria and shampoo spoilage S. A. Malcolm, P.Pharm., Ph.D. and Ft. C. S. Woodroffe, M.l. Biol......... 277 Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool A. C. Brown, B.Sc., Ph.D. and J. A. Swift, B.Sc., Ph.D. 289 An appraisal of human head hair as forensic evidence J. Porter, H.N.C. and C. Fouweather, B.Sc., Ph.D. 299 PRELIMINARY COMMUNICATION Microbiological quality control—a case history G. D. Breach 315 ÍNDEX t o advertisers n i n n VTfl Journal o f the Society o f Cosmetic Chemists Voi. 26 N o. 6 1975 J I y o u a n a l c o h o l s p r o b l e m ? Super Hartolan Refined woolwax alcohols BP/DAB. Superb emollient and water-in-oil emulsifier Polychols Ethoxylated lanolin alcohols. A range of non-ionic surface active oil-in-water emulsifiers Crodalan LA Acetylated lanolin alcohols. Superfine non-sticky liquid emollients Crodalan AWS Acetylated ethoxylated lanolin alcohols. Surface active emollient, soluble in water and in ethanol Croda n . Croda Chemicals Ltd Cowick Hall Snaith Goole North Humberside DN14 9AA Tel Goole (0405) 860 551 Telex 57601 r Journal o f the Society o f Cosmetic Chemists Voi. 26 N o . 6 1975 How do you m easure superiority? In lanolin derivatives and chemical specialties by consistent high quality, continuous uniformity. In your supplier, by depth of product line, imaginative research, thorough technical service to customers. Measure superiority by reputation. Amerchol. Renowned for innovative lanolin derivatives and chemical specialties that set standards of performance and reliability in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulating. Emulsifiers. Solubilizers. Emollients. Moisturizers. Lubricants. Penetrants. Humectants. U.V.Absorbers. Available to you through distributors worldwide. Amerchol products. For superiority in you r products. ACETULAN" Acetylated lanolin alcohols AMERCHOL* Multisterol extracts AMERLATE* Lanolin fatty acid derivatives AMEROXOL™ Alkoxylated fatty alcohols AMERSCREEN™ U.V. absorbers GLUCAM™ Alkoxylated glucose derivatives MODULAN’ Acetylated lanolin OHIan™ Hydroxylated lanolin POLYLAN * Lanolin alcohol linoleate SOLULAN® Alkoxylated lanolin derivatives For technical information or samples in the United Kingdom contact: D. F. Anstead, Victoria House, Radford Way, Billericay, Essex, England. m erchol of CPC International Inc Amerchol Park, Edison, New Jersey 08817 26.n.£l.?5<« (201)287-1600 Cable: Amerchols Telex: 833 472 Amerchol Edin Journal o f the Society o f Cosmetic Chemists Voi. 26 N o . 6 1975 INDEX TO ADVERTISERS A m e r i c a n C h o l e s t e r o l P r o d u c t s , In c . .................................................... i C h e m is c h e s L aboratorium D r K u r t R i c h t e r G m b H . Facing ii C r o d a C h e m i c a l s L im it e d .................................................... Inside front cover W h i t t a k e r , C l a r k & D a n i e l s , In c . .. .. .. Inside back cover M e r c k .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Facing iii N o r d a International .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ii M a c f Ar l a n S m i t h L i m i t e d . Outside back cover A¡ o r d a In tern a tion a l is proud to supply the cosmetic Industry with quality fragrances NORDA INTERNATIONAL, LTD. Stirling Road, Slough, SL1 4TA Telephone Slough 26864-5-6-7. TELEX: 847236. Cables: Norda Slough v _________________ _Z _________________ ii Placenta Extracts * Tissue Extracts * Skin Extracts * Soluble Collagen * Hormones * Vitamins * Vitamin Oils * Vitamin Complexes * Herbal Extracts * Sulphur Additives * Amino Acids Combination * Skin Moisturizer * Solubilized Bath and Shampoo Complexes * Special Hair Complexes * Hair Conditioner Concentrate * Deodorant!Bactericide * A m inoderm in CLR Hair Complex 20/70 n Vitamin F 250 000 Sh.L.U./g A rnica Oil CLR Hair Com plex FCa Vitamin F Ethyl Ester Avocado Oil CLR Hair Complex Aquosum 80 000 Sh.L.U./g Biosulphur Powder Hexaplant Richter Vitamin F Glyceryl Ester Biosulphur Fluid Hygroplex HHG 65 000 - 75 000 Sh.L.U./g Calcium Pantothenate [d(+)] Inositol Vitamin F alcohol-soluble C alendula Oil CLR Lecithin water-dispersible 80000 Sh.L.U./g Carrot Oil CLR Peroestron in Oil Vitamin F water-soluble Collagen CLR Placentaliquid water-soluble 25000 Sh.L.U./g Cutavit Richter Placentaliquid oil-soluble Vitamin H’ Deodorant Richter/K Sedaplant Richter Vitaplant CLR oil-soluble Elacid Richter Soluvit Richter Vitaplant CLR water-soluble Epiderm in in Oil S t.J o h n ’s Wort Oil Wheat Germ Oil 0.26% Epidermin water-soluble DAB 6 (Erg.-B.) (a + ß).tocopherol T ocopherol Oil 0.4% tocopherol Vitamin (A+D3) Concentrate 400000 I.U.A + 40000 I.U.D3/g Vitamin B Complex CLR Y CHEMISCHES LABORATORIUM9 DR. KURT RICHTER GMBH 1 Berlin 41 (West Berlin) Bennigsenstraße 25 Postfach 480 Germanyf Iriodin - Nacreous pigments MERCK THE QUALITY YOU CAN TRUST r 'C- . y i > » ^ 5, E. Merck, Darmstadt,'Fédéral Republic of Germany SYNOPSES FOR CARD INDEXES The following synopses can be cut out and mounted on 127 X 76 mm index cards for reference without mutilating the pages of the Journal. The relationship between water-borne bacteria and shampoo spoilage: S. A. M a l c o l m and R. C. S. W o o d ro ffe. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 26 277-288 (1975) Synopsis— Bacteria capable of surviving and multiplying in shampoos appear to represent only a very small proportion of the total population carried by mains water. Examination of mains water (from a single source) showed these bacteria occurring with a frequency of approximately 5 in 100 1. The ability of small numbers of bacteria to initiate heavy contamination in shampoos is unrelated to the volume of product inoculated. As few as 50 bacteria are capable of initiating contamination in 1 1 of shampoo and this same small number may be capable of initiating contamination in much larger volumes, e.g. a factory batch. The implications of this observa­ tion on the methods of detection of contamination and the time after manufacture at which products should be examined for the presence of contaminants are discussed. Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool: A . C. B r o w n and J. A . Sw if t . Journal o f the Society o f Cosmetic Chemists 26 289-297 (1975) Synopsis— Physical techniques for studying the mechanical properties of human hair have been well established for many years and since the intro­ duction of the scanning electron microscope (SEM) 8 years ago, there has been some attempt to correlate, retrospectively, the structural appearance of deformed fibres with data obtained during mechanical straining experi­ ments. A logical development is to combine these two techniques so that both physical and structural data could be collected simultaneously, thereby enabling a more detailed and accurate assessment of the break­ down of structural components to be made. The SEM, because of its great depth of focus, wide range of magnifica­ tion and large area for specimen manipulation, has been adapted for con­ ducting dynamic experiments in situ. In addition, the manner in which the visual information was processed made direct recording of the results onto videotape possible. A number of simple specimen stages have been constructed for use in examining the structural deformation of hair fibres under various con­ ditions of mechanical stress. The incorporation of d.c. micromotors into the SEM allowed accurate control of sample movement during experiments and miniature strain gauges were used so that continuous recordings of f The following papers have been accepted for publication in the Journal: ORIGINAL SCIENTIFIC PAPERS Skin impedance and moisturization £. J. Clar, C. P. Her and C. G. Sturelle Analytic procedures for the determination of chlorhexidine in oral products E. Cropper, P. Platt and N. A. Puttnam Estimation of the general incidence of specific lanolin allergy E. W. Clark Cough irritation by deodorant sprays E. M. Staal, W. Bree and P. L. C. A. Rijnbeek The role of essential fatty acids (EFA) in the regulatory processes of Malpighian cell membranes M. Cambrai, Ph.D. The examination of particulate inclusions in toothpaste, by freeze-fracture, replica­ tion and transmission electron microscopy W. B. Davies, B.Sc., A.I.M., D.A.E., M.Sc. and A. C. Macdonald, B.Sc., Ph.D. The promise and the product J. B. Wilkinson, M.A., B.Sc., F.R.I.C. SYNOPSES FOR CARD INDEXES the changes in strain could be made. The nature of the structural breakdown in human hair during combing has been investigated, together with the changes taking place as a result of natural weathering. An appraisal of human head hair as forensic evidence: J. Po rter and C. F o u w e a t h e r . Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 26 299-313 (1975) Synopsis— The evidential value of human head hair in forensic science is discussed. As well as basic techniques such as morphology and the identi­ fication o f cosmetics, an experiment to put the measurement o f hair colour on a less subjective basis, is described. Results show that with the tech­ niques currently in use a definite method of relating a hair fibre to a particular individual is still not a reality, but, in cases o f rare hair colour and the presence of cosmetic treatments, good discrimination can be achieved.
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