Wild Flowers of Estonia

Naturetrek Tour Report 4 - 12 June 2011

Lady's Slipper Military Orchid

Scarce Fritillary Wood Cow-wheat

Report compiled by Neil Anderson Images courtesy of Mark Ogden

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Wild Flowers of Estonia

Tour leaders: Peeter Vissak Neil Anderson

Participants: Elizabeth Barraclough Annette Collins Hilary Rolton Fergus Moynihan Liz Moynihan Roger Billington Wendy Billington Mark Ogden Derrick Fuller Alison Kirkby Marian Wiltshire

Day 1 Saturday 4th June

Heathrow to Hiiumaa, via Helsinki + Tallinn

Weather: Hot and sunny We departed Heathrow on time at 7.30am and arrived early at Helsinki where some were shocked by the extortionate price of a beer at the airport! We had plenty of space on the Tallinn flight with only two other passengers other than our group. As we exited Tallinn airport we met our local guide Peeter and also Hilary who had travelled independently from Glasgow via Amsterdam. Travelling in our bus to the ferry terminal at Rohukula we admired some showy Anemone sylvestris en route. From the ferry some of us saw a Ringed Seal and several Goosanders. Once at Hiiumaa we stopped at Orjaku to do some botanising where we saw our first orchids - the widespread Military and Fly Orchids. A Duke of Burgundy sat on a leaf. Most of the group stayed at the Dagen Haus Guesthouse, although a few of us were staying in other nearby comfortable dwellings. We all ate at Dagen Haus where the food was excellent.

Day 2 Sunday 5th June

Kopu Peninsula to Vaemla Wool Factory

Weather: Hot and sunny This morning we explored the various forest and coastal communities. Diminutive amongst orchids we managed to find several flowering Lesser Twayblades along with many of its commoner cousin. Other plants in the woods included May Lilies, Chickweed Wintergreen, Bird's Nest Orchid and Baneberry. A couple of Wood Warblers were singing and we had views of a singing Pied Flycatcher. We then drove to the third oldest lighthouse in the world. Some of the group scaled the heights of this, Mark searched for butterflies and others just relaxed by the café.

Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

Before lunch at Hobekala Kalakohvik we explored the coast where we examined several species of wintergreen. Other plants included the distinctive Petasites spurius with triangular leaves, Sea Holly and Sea Kale. A Honey Buzzard with several Common Buzzards was a welcome bird sighting. Following lunch we visited the Vaemla Wool Factory where the mechanics of this local industry was explained and some products purchased. Outside three Broad-bordered Bee Hawkmoths were visiting the flowers of some Lilacs.

Back to botanising (with some birding) we visited Kaina Bay. We found our first Early Marsh Orchids which are very variable. Spreading Bellflower was an attractive find and we also enjoyed the Bird's-eye Primroses. In the distance we watched our first White-tailed Eagles to the backdrop of the raucous song of a Great Reed Warbler. Our final stop was at Kassari Chapel where some of us attempted to photograph some Swallowtails visiting the Lilacs.

Day 3 Monday 6th June

Hiiumaa to Saaremaa

Weather: Hot and sunny After an early breakfast we drove to Soru Port for a ferry. We stopped briefly at Angla to admire the five windmills and in the fields behind were four Cranes. At Parna we found Sword-leaved Helleborines near the car park as well as more Fly Orchids. Several Wood Whites, Small Blues and Duke of Burgundies were enjoyed along this coastal walk. A visit to Tagamoisa Peninsula (part of Vilsandi National Park) introduced us to some wooded meadows where Wood and Bloody Cranesbills looked magnificent. We also saw three species of cow- wheat here, Early Purple Orchids and Sticky Catchfly.

Lunch was taken at Lumanda Soogimaja where we were treated to some great views in Mediterranean sunshine. At Vidumae we saw some Toothwort and Greater Butterfly Orchid in bud. A male Redstart was seen singing from some dead branches and a couple of Black-veined Whites flying through.

Day 4 Tuesday 7th June

Sorve Peninsula

Weather: Hot and sunny Our morning excursion was to the open wooded meadows at Loode. Annette discovered the first of several Burnt Tip Orchids at their best. The real highlight here was the profusion of Lady's Slipper Orchids - literally thousands of these beauties. Those in the sun were past their best, but many in more shaded places still looked good…

We briefly visited a quarry on the Sorve Peninsula where we saw several fine specimens of Tower Mustard, quite a rarity back home. A family of Ravens and a Little Ringed Plover added to the birding. At the beach we had a picnic lunch where we saw a handsome Marsh Spurge, the architectural Garden Angelica and Wormwood. Later we found some Field Cow-wheat on the west of the peninsula as well as a bewildering variety of Early Marsh Orchids. Back at the Saaremaa hotel we had a walk to see the pretty Sand Pink and several Dark Red Helleborines in bud.

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Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

Day 5 Wednesday 8th June

To the mainland - Puhtu-Laelatu

Weather: Hot and sunny Leaving the hotel we visited the Kaali Crater formed by a meteorite some 4000 years ago and up to 60 metres deep. After a short time here we went to the delightful Koguva Village where there was a museum and teahouse as well as much of natural history interest including singing Icterine Warblers and Thrush Nightingale. Plants seen included some Henbane found by Elizabeth, Hoary Cinquefoil and Purple Milk-vetch. Alison found an Adder here.

Just after 2 pm we caught our ferry to the mainland where Peeter showed us some of his photos being exhibited in a café. At Puhtu we found the rare endemic marsh orchid, Dactylorhiza ruthei, where we saw only two plants. Holy Grass was also found here and part of the woods (with numerous unpopular mosquitoes) was a riot of white from the flowering Ramsons. We then drove on to our guest house for the next three nights - the Altamoisa. Today was the 48th wedding anniversary of Roger and Wendy and with Peeter's help we managed to get them the wedding suite as a pleasant surprise!

Day 6 Thursday 9th June

Matsulu National Park

Weather: Hot and sunny Our first stop was by an observation tower where a lucky few saw a couple of distant Moose. A Spotted Eagle flew low over us as Beautiful Demoiselles flitted along the river. Some wetland plants such as Ragged Robin, Common Valerian and Marsh Marigolds were seen.

At Salavere we started in open wooded meadows and moved into a shady walk with small limestone cliffs where Brittle Bladder Ferns grew on the damp rocks. Perennial honesty was seen with its distinctive oval fruits while the open meadows were colourful with a mosaic of wild flowers. The entomological highlight was a pristine Scarce Fritillary which perched on the path in front of us showing both under and upperside. Mark had tentatively identified one earlier which disappeared.

Later in the day we had a boat trip up the River Suitsu. The weather felt so tropical I half expected to see a Hippo! An American Mink swam across ahead of us and large numbers of Grey Herons flew up as Marsh Harriers hunted over the reeds. A large expanse of open water was carpeted with the flowers of Yellow Water- lily. Returning to the guest house a Grass Snake was found basking at the back of the pond.

Day 7 Friday 10th June

Osmussar Island

Weather: Sunny, but fairly overcast in middle of day We drove to Dirhami Port to catch our boat for the hour long journey across to Osmussar Island. Many Goldeneye and Eider were seen during the crossing and an adult White-tailed Eagle put up large flocks of birds.

Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

Large numbers of Glanville Fritillaries were seen on the island and I picked up a Hairy Dragonfly which was busy munching a Four-spotted Chaser in a spider web. Flowers were everywhere with the various colours of Kidney Vetch making a visual impact. Madwort was found growing prostrate along the beach. Some white Early Marsh Orchids were much admired and as ever the taxonomy of these various forms was discussed. We couldn't find any Musk or Fen Orchids where we had previously located them.

Following our picnic people went their various ways. Alison went off with Derrick to look for plants and her keen eyes spotted some small plants which Derrick confirmed as Fen Orchids. Fortunately the whole group eventually saw these tiny orchids. Richard found some Adder's-tongue Ferns. I was frustrated by invisible Corncrakes which called close by but were not showing, but the Barred Warblers were more cooperative. On the return journey Fergus spotted a Long-tailed Duck snoozing on a rock. At dinner we were joined by the local organiser of our tour, Marika, who always does a brilliant job of making sure things go well.

Day 8 Saturday 11th June

Tuhu Bog, Tallinn

Weather: Hot and sunny As we said goodbye to Altmoisa and the wonderful meadows opposite with Lesser Butterfly, Fly and Military Orchids we headed to the calcifuge vegetation of Tuhu Bog where we walked along the boardwalk to see such delights as Labrador Tea, Tufted Loosestrife, Cloudberry, Cranberry and the insectivorous Sundews and Bladderworts. Several Sedgelings (Europe's smallest damselfly) were seen flitting amongst the sedges and back at the bus a male Montagu's Harrier was seen hunting.

Our final botanical stop was at the wooded meadows of Nedrena Puissit where we saw lots of Wood Cow-wheat (including some white variants). Melancholy Thistle and Liz found the first Fragrant Orchid in flower. Several of the handsome subspecies, ssp. cruenta of Early Marsh Orchid, with deep purple flowers and mottled leaves were much admired. This was also a good butterfly site with many Lesser Marbled Fritillaries, Scarce Heaths and a couple of Woodland Browns.

We then departed for the Ulemiste Hotel for a brief rest before being guided around the mediaeval old town of Tallinn for a couple of hours. We learnt about the often tragic history of this Baltic nation which only recently achieved independence in 1991. Some of the architecture dates back to the 15th Century. Following this fascinating tour we had our final dinner at the Kuldse Notsu Tavern.

Day 9 Sunday 12th June

Travel back to the UK

Weather: Hot and sunny Hilary had an early start as she departed us at 5.30 for her journey to Scotland. Annette who was staying on in Estonia to explore her family roots here went to Tallinn while the rest of us relaxed before our flights to Helsinki and on to a wet and distinctly cool London. What a contrast to the Estonian heatwave! There we said our goodbyes after a most enjoyable trip with a wealth of flora and fauna.

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Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

Species Lists

Plants Pinus sylvestris Picea abies Juniperus communis Taxus baccata Salix alba S. fragilis S. repens Populus tremula Betula nana B. humilis B. pendula B. pubescens Alnus glutinosa A. incana Corylus avellana Quergus robur Ulmus glabra Berberis vulgaris Ribes alpinus Sorbus aucuparia S. intermedia Cotoneaster lutescens Pyrus pyraster Prunus padus Rubus idaeus R. saxatilis R. chamaemorus Rosa rugosa Potentilla palustris P.anserina P. erecta P. argentea P. reptans Fragaria vesca F. viridis F. moschata Geum urbanum G. rivale G. x intermedium Alchemilla vulgaris agg Poterium sanguisorba Filipendula vulgaris F. ulmaria Rumex acetosa Atriplex prostate A. littoralis Chenopodium album Stellaria graminea S. holostea Arenaria serpyllifolia Lychnis viscaria L. flos-cuculi Silene nutans S. latifolia Dianthus arenarius Sagina procumbens Saponaria officinalis Urtica diocia Nuphar lutea Actaea spicata Aquilegia vulgaris Trollius europaeus Anemone sylvestris A. nemorosa Pulsatilla pratensis Ranunculus auricomus R. polyanthemnos R. acris R. repens R. flammula R. cassubicus R. scleratus R. peltatus Caltha palustris Thalictrum flavus Chelidonium majus Plantago major P. media P. lanceolata Fumaria officinalis Cardamine bulbifera C. amara C. pratensis Arabidopsis thaliana A. suecica Arabis hirsuta A. glabra Lunaria rediviva Helianthemum nummularium Capsella bursa-pastoris Bunias orientalis Alyssum gmelinii Cakile maritime Crambe maritime Isatis tinctoria Sedum acre S. album Drosera rotundifolia Galega orientalis Vicia sepium V. hirsute V. tetrasperma V. cracca V. sativa V. sylvatica V. cassubica Medicago sativa M. lupulina Trifolium repens T. pratense T. medium T. montanum Anthyllis vulneraria Astagalus glycyphyllos A. danicus Tetragonolobus maritimus Lotus corniculatus Lathyrus sylvestris L. pratensis L. palustris

Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

L. japonicus L. vernus Linum catharticum Oxalis acetosella O. stricta Geranium robertianum G. sanguineum G. pratense G. sylvaticum G. pusillum G. molle Euphorbia palustris Polygala comosa P. amarelle Impatiens parviflora Viola riviniana V. elatior V. hirta Epilobium hirsutum Chamerion angustifolium Eryngium maritimum Pimpinella saxifrage P. major Cnidium dubium Aegopodium podagraria Anthriscus sylvestris Pastinaca sativa Angelica palustris A. sylvestris A. archangelica Heracleum sibiricum Daucus carota Laserpitium latifolium Hypericum maculatum Pyrola minor P. media P. rotundifolia P. chlorantha Orthilia secunda Chimaphila umbellate Moneses uniflora Ledum palustre Andromeda polifolia Vaccinium oxycoccos V. myrtillus Calluna vulgaris Primula farinose P. veris Lysimachia vulgaris L. thyrsiflorus Trientalis europaea Androsace septentrionale Asperula tinctoria Galium verum G. odoratum G. boreale G. album G. aparine G. palustre Menyanthes trifoliate Calystegia sepium Convolvulus arvensis Echium vulgare Anchusa officinalis Myosotis arvensis M. sylvatica Asperugo procumbens Pulmonaria officinalis Cynoglossum officinale Symphytum officinale Vincetoxicum hirundinaria Solanum dulcamara Lamium amplexicaule L. album L. purpureum Acinos arvensis Stachys officinalis Origanum vulgare Thymus serpyllum Scrophularia nodosa Verbascum nigrum Linaria vulgaris Veronica serpyllifolia V. chamaedrys V. officinalis V. teucrium Melanpyrum nemorosum M. sylvatica M. pratense M. arvense Rhinanthus serotina R. minor Lathraea squamaria Pedicularis palustris Pinguicula vulgaris Utricularia sp. Valeriana officinalis Knautia arvensis Campanula glomerata C. persicifolia C. trachelium C. patula Antennaria diocia Bellis perennis Petasites spurious Anthemis tinctoria Artemisia absinthium A. campestris A. vulgaris Leucanthemum vulgare Inula salicina Achillea millefolium Aster tripolium Tussilago farfara Matricaria discoidea Senecio vulgaris S. viscosus Carlina vulgaris Cirsium vulgare C. arvense C. palustre C. heterophyllum Centaurium scabiosa C. jacea Lapsanna communis Hypochaeris maculate Leontodon hispidus Tragopogon pratensis Scorzonera humilis Mycelis muralis Taraxacum officinale agg Crepis praemorsa

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Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

C. paludosa Pilosella officinarum P. x cespitosa Alisma plantago-aquatica Scheuzeria palustris Triglochin palustre Iris pseudacorus Paris quadrifolia Convallaria majalis Maianthemum bifolium Polygonatum odoratum P. multiflorum Allium scorodoprasum A. schoenoprasum A. ursinum Juncus balticus Luzula pilosa Elymus repens Bromus hordaceus Helictotrichon pratense Ammophila arenaria Hierochloe australis Alopecurus pratensis A. geniculatus Briza media Sesleria caerulea Melica nutans Bolboschoenus maritmus Schoenoplectus tabernaemontanii Eriophorum vaginatum E. angustifolium E. gracile Carex nigra C. paniculata C. flacca C. vaginata C. acutiformis C. davilliana C. elata C. panacea C. tomentosa C. pallescens C. hirta C. arenaria C. disticha C. viridula Listera cordata L. ovata Cypripedium calceolus Neottia nius-avis Epipactis palustris E. atrorubens Orchis mascula O. ustulata O. militaris Platanthera bifolia Gymnadenia conopsea Dactylorhiza incarnate ssp.cruenta D. incarnata ssp. incarnata D. ruthei D. fuchsia Ophrys insectifera Liaris loeselii Ophioglossum vulgatum Dryopteris filix-mas Gymnocarpium dryopteris Pteridium aquilinum Cystopteris fragilis Polypodium vulgare Lycopodiella annotinum Equisetum fluviatile E. arvense E. pratense E. hyemale

Birds (H = heard only)

Mute Swan Whooper Swan Greylag Barnacle Goose Mallard Pintail Shoveler Wigeon Teal Pochard Tufted Duck Goldeneye Eider Velvet Scoter Long-tailed Duck Goosander Great-crested Grebe Cormorant Grey Heron White Stork White-tailed Eagle Spotted Eagle Marsh Harrier Hen Harrier Montagu's Harrier Buzzard Honey Buzzard Sparrowhawk Kestrel Hobby Corncrake (H) Coot Crane Oystercatcher Ringed Plover Little Ringed Plover Grey Plover Golden Plover Lapwing Knot Green Sandpiper Redshank Black-tailed Godwit Curlew Woodcock Snipe Black-headed Gull Common Gull Herring Gull Lesser Black-backed Gull Great black-backed Gull

Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

Little Gull Common Tern Arctic Tern Feral Pigeon Wood Pigeon Cuckoo (H) Swift Skylark Sand Martin Swallow House Martin Meadow Pipit White Wagtail Blue-headed Wagtail Dunnock Robin Thrush Nightingale Redstart Black Redstart (H) Wheatear Whinchat Song Thrush Redwing Fieldfare Blackbird Barred Warbler Garden Warbler Blackcap Whitethroat Lesser Whitethroat Sedge Warbler Reed Warbler Great Reed Warbler Icterine Warbler Willow Warbler Wood Warbler (H) Chiffchaff Goldcrest (H) Spotted Flycatcher Pied Flycatcher Great Tit Blue Tit Crested Tit Long-tailed Tit (H) Red-backed Shrike Magpie Jackdaw Rook Hooded Crow Raven Starling Golden Oriole (H) House Sparrow Chaffinch Linnet Goldfinch Siskin Greenfinch Hawfinch Common Rosefinch Reed Bunting Yellowhammer

Mammals

Roe Deer Moose (Elk) Ringed Seal Fox American Mink Brown Hare Red Squirrel Common Shrew (3 x dead)

Herptiles

Adder Grass Snake Common Lizard Moor Frog

Odonata

Common Blue Damselfly Azure Damselfly Variable Damselfly Sedgeling Blue-tailed Damselfly Red-eyed Damselfly Emerald Damselfly Beautiful Demoiselle Banded Demoiselle Four-spotted Chaser Broad-bodied Chaser Black-tailed Skimmer Downy Emerald Northern Emerald Large White-faced Darter Hairy Hawker

Moths

Lattice Heath Common Heath Grass Wave Bordered White Burnet Companion Mother Shipton Common Wave Clouded Magpie Silver-Y White -pinion-Spotted Hummingbird Hawkmoth Broad-bordered Hawkmoth

Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report

Lackey (larvae) Drinker (larvae)

Butterflies

Swallowtail Papilio machaon Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius Black-veined White Aporia crataegi Large White Pieris brassicae Small White Artogeia rapae Green-veined White Artogeia napi Orange Tip Anthocaris cardamines Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni Wood White Leptidea sinapis Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas Short-tailed Blue Everes argiades Little Blue Cupido minimus Amanda's Blue Agrodiaetus amanda Common Blue Polyommatus icarus Duke of Burgundy Hamearis lucina Peacock Inachis io Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae Comma Polygonum c-album Map Araschnia levana Lesser Marbled Fritillary Brenthis ino Pearl-bordered Fritillary Clossiana euphrosyne Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary Clossiana selene Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia Heath Fritillary Mellicta athalia Scarce Fritillary Hypodryas maturna Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus Chestnut Heath Coenonympha glycerion Scarce Heath Coenonympha hero Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria Northern Wall brown Lasiommata petropolitana Woodland Brown Lopinga achine Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus malvae Dingy Skipper Erynnis tages Northern Chequered Skipper Carterocephalus silvicolus Large Skipper Ochlodes venatus

Other taxa

Rose Chafer Garden Chafer Poplar Leaf Beetle Water Ladybird Hornet Misumena vatia (crab spider)

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