Wild Flowers of Estonia

Wild Flowers of Estonia Naturetrek Tour Report 4 - 12 June 2011 Lady's Slipper Military Orchid Scarce Fritillary Wood Cow-wheat Report compiled by Neil Anderson Images courtesy of Mark Ogden Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour leaders: Peeter Vissak Neil Anderson Participants: Elizabeth Barraclough Annette Collins Hilary Rolton Fergus Moynihan Liz Moynihan Roger Billington Wendy Billington Mark Ogden Derrick Fuller Alison Kirkby Marian Wiltshire Day 1 Saturday 4th June Heathrow to Hiiumaa, via Helsinki + Tallinn Weather: Hot and sunny We departed Heathrow on time at 7.30am and arrived early at Helsinki where some were shocked by the extortionate price of a beer at the airport! We had plenty of space on the Tallinn flight with only two other passengers other than our group. As we exited Tallinn airport we met our local guide Peeter and also Hilary who had travelled independently from Glasgow via Amsterdam. Travelling in our bus to the ferry terminal at Rohukula we admired some showy Anemone sylvestris en route. From the ferry some of us saw a Ringed Seal and several Goosanders. Once at Hiiumaa we stopped at Orjaku to do some botanising where we saw our first orchids - the widespread Military and Fly Orchids. A Duke of Burgundy sat on a leaf. Most of the group stayed at the Dagen Haus Guesthouse, although a few of us were staying in other nearby comfortable dwellings. We all ate at Dagen Haus where the food was excellent. Day 2 Sunday 5th June Kopu Peninsula to Vaemla Wool Factory Weather: Hot and sunny This morning we explored the various forest and coastal communities. Diminutive amongst orchids we managed to find several flowering Lesser Twayblades along with many of its commoner cousin. Other plants in the woods included May Lilies, Chickweed Wintergreen, Bird's Nest Orchid and Baneberry. A couple of Wood Warblers were singing and we had views of a singing Pied Flycatcher. We then drove to the third oldest lighthouse in the world. Some of the group scaled the heights of this, Mark searched for butterflies and others just relaxed by the café. © Naturetrek July 11 1 Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report Before lunch at Hobekala Kalakohvik we explored the coast where we examined several species of wintergreen. Other plants included the distinctive Petasites spurius with triangular leaves, Sea Holly and Sea Kale. A Honey Buzzard with several Common Buzzards was a welcome bird sighting. Following lunch we visited the Vaemla Wool Factory where the mechanics of this local industry was explained and some products purchased. Outside three Broad-bordered Bee Hawkmoths were visiting the flowers of some Lilacs. Back to botanising (with some birding) we visited Kaina Bay. We found our first Early Marsh Orchids which are very variable. Spreading Bellflower was an attractive find and we also enjoyed the Bird's-eye Primroses. In the distance we watched our first White-tailed Eagles to the backdrop of the raucous song of a Great Reed Warbler. Our final stop was at Kassari Chapel where some of us attempted to photograph some Swallowtails visiting the Lilacs. Day 3 Monday 6th June Hiiumaa to Saaremaa Weather: Hot and sunny After an early breakfast we drove to Soru Port for a ferry. We stopped briefly at Angla to admire the five windmills and in the fields behind were four Cranes. At Parna we found Sword-leaved Helleborines near the car park as well as more Fly Orchids. Several Wood Whites, Small Blues and Duke of Burgundies were enjoyed along this coastal walk. A visit to Tagamoisa Peninsula (part of Vilsandi National Park) introduced us to some wooded meadows where Wood and Bloody Cranesbills looked magnificent. We also saw three species of cow- wheat here, Early Purple Orchids and Sticky Catchfly. Lunch was taken at Lumanda Soogimaja where we were treated to some great views in Mediterranean sunshine. At Vidumae we saw some Toothwort and Greater Butterfly Orchid in bud. A male Redstart was seen singing from some dead branches and a couple of Black-veined Whites flying through. Day 4 Tuesday 7th June Sorve Peninsula Weather: Hot and sunny Our morning excursion was to the open wooded meadows at Loode. Annette discovered the first of several Burnt Tip Orchids at their best. The real highlight here was the profusion of Lady's Slipper Orchids - literally thousands of these beauties. Those in the sun were past their best, but many in more shaded places still looked good… We briefly visited a quarry on the Sorve Peninsula where we saw several fine specimens of Tower Mustard, quite a rarity back home. A family of Ravens and a Little Ringed Plover added to the birding. At the beach we had a picnic lunch where we saw a handsome Marsh Spurge, the architectural Garden Angelica and Wormwood. Later we found some Field Cow-wheat on the west of the peninsula as well as a bewildering variety of Early Marsh Orchids. Back at the Saaremaa hotel we had a walk to see the pretty Sand Pink and several Dark Red Helleborines in bud. 2 © Naturetrek July 11 Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report Day 5 Wednesday 8th June To the mainland - Puhtu-Laelatu Weather: Hot and sunny Leaving the hotel we visited the Kaali Crater formed by a meteorite some 4000 years ago and up to 60 metres deep. After a short time here we went to the delightful Koguva Village where there was a museum and teahouse as well as much of natural history interest including singing Icterine Warblers and Thrush Nightingale. Plants seen included some Henbane found by Elizabeth, Hoary Cinquefoil and Purple Milk-vetch. Alison found an Adder here. Just after 2 pm we caught our ferry to the mainland where Peeter showed us some of his photos being exhibited in a café. At Puhtu we found the rare endemic marsh orchid, Dactylorhiza ruthei, where we saw only two plants. Holy Grass was also found here and part of the woods (with numerous unpopular mosquitoes) was a riot of white from the flowering Ramsons. We then drove on to our guest house for the next three nights - the Altamoisa. Today was the 48th wedding anniversary of Roger and Wendy and with Peeter's help we managed to get them the wedding suite as a pleasant surprise! Day 6 Thursday 9th June Matsulu National Park Weather: Hot and sunny Our first stop was by an observation tower where a lucky few saw a couple of distant Moose. A Spotted Eagle flew low over us as Beautiful Demoiselles flitted along the river. Some wetland plants such as Ragged Robin, Common Valerian and Marsh Marigolds were seen. At Salavere we started in open wooded meadows and moved into a shady walk with small limestone cliffs where Brittle Bladder Ferns grew on the damp rocks. Perennial honesty was seen with its distinctive oval fruits while the open meadows were colourful with a mosaic of wild flowers. The entomological highlight was a pristine Scarce Fritillary which perched on the path in front of us showing both under and upperside. Mark had tentatively identified one earlier which disappeared. Later in the day we had a boat trip up the River Suitsu. The weather felt so tropical I half expected to see a Hippo! An American Mink swam across ahead of us and large numbers of Grey Herons flew up as Marsh Harriers hunted over the reeds. A large expanse of open water was carpeted with the flowers of Yellow Water- lily. Returning to the guest house a Grass Snake was found basking at the back of the pond. Day 7 Friday 10th June Osmussar Island Weather: Sunny, but fairly overcast in middle of day We drove to Dirhami Port to catch our boat for the hour long journey across to Osmussar Island. Many Goldeneye and Eider were seen during the crossing and an adult White-tailed Eagle put up large flocks of birds. © Naturetrek July 11 3 Wild Flowers of Estonia Tour Report Large numbers of Glanville Fritillaries were seen on the island and I picked up a Hairy Dragonfly which was busy munching a Four-spotted Chaser in a spider web. Flowers were everywhere with the various colours of Kidney Vetch making a visual impact. Madwort was found growing prostrate along the beach. Some white Early Marsh Orchids were much admired and as ever the taxonomy of these various forms was discussed. We couldn't find any Musk or Fen Orchids where we had previously located them. Following our picnic people went their various ways. Alison went off with Derrick to look for plants and her keen eyes spotted some small plants which Derrick confirmed as Fen Orchids. Fortunately the whole group eventually saw these tiny orchids. Richard found some Adder's-tongue Ferns. I was frustrated by invisible Corncrakes which called close by but were not showing, but the Barred Warblers were more cooperative. On the return journey Fergus spotted a Long-tailed Duck snoozing on a rock. At dinner we were joined by the local organiser of our tour, Marika, who always does a brilliant job of making sure things go well. Day 8 Saturday 11th June Tuhu Bog, Tallinn Weather: Hot and sunny As we said goodbye to Altmoisa and the wonderful meadows opposite with Lesser Butterfly, Fly and Military Orchids we headed to the calcifuge vegetation of Tuhu Bog where we walked along the boardwalk to see such delights as Labrador Tea, Tufted Loosestrife, Cloudberry, Cranberry and the insectivorous Sundews and Bladderworts.

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