GASTRONOMY Wine tourism

Wines with Protected Michelin Denomination Starred Chefs of Origin Rioja Alavesa and Top quality ingredients from land and sea

Nanogastronomy Haute cuisine in miniature San Sebastian GAS- 30TRON- Vitoria-Gasteiz OMY 16 Wine tourism

6 A country with 10 34 resources

8 Euskadi Gastronomika

10 Top quality ingredients

16 Cuisine 44 26 Recipes There are 150 experiences to choose. 28 Sweets TOP They are subject to change and may be updated. EXPE RIEN Therefore, before you choose an experience and 30 Pintxos CE to find out about prices, schedules and places 34 Wine tourism available, we advise you check the website: tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ 44 The markets 48 Gourmet shopping

48 50 Gastronomic culture

52 The 10 musts 54 Events Practical info Edition: 4th, July 2016 • Reprint: 3rd, November 2019 • Print Run: 10,000 • © Government of the Autonomous Community of the 6 Basque Country. Ministry of Tourism, Trade and Consumer Affairs • Edited by: Eusko Jaurlaritzaren Argitalpen Zerbitzu Nagusia / Servicio Central de Publicaciones del Gobierno Vasco • Translation: On Global • Production: Bell Comunicación • Text and photography: Various authors• Printed by: Centro Gráfico Ganboa, S.L. • L.D.: BI 867-2016

Full and/or partial reproduction of the texts, maps and images contained in this catalogue is strictly prohibited without the prior permission of the publisher and the authors.

SAN JUAN DE 6

Biarritz BIZKAIA BRIDGE URDAIBAI 7 The Basque Country is a land where all of the 5 San Juan de Luz Laredo Ea Castro Urdiales 2 SAN SEBASTIAN Hendaya food, be it hake, tuna, beef or beans, has a special character. Cold, wild waters, green, plentiful Irún MUSEUM Lezo pasture, strong north winds... they all blend together with the BALENCIAGA Renteria e local wisdom to produce something truly unique. Valley Deba Getaria Orio 8 Markina- Lasarte Xemein Hernani 1 BILBAO GERNIKA-LUMO Everything close 4 AP-8 LOIOLA 9 Villabona AP-68 Durango at hand

Laudio-Llodio Abadiño Tolosa One of the secrets of this internationally recognised cuisine Artziniega Zumarraga is undoubtedly the quality and diversity of raw materials that Arrasate/Mondragón enable the creation of an endless world of wine and food Amurrio Legazpi experiences. The natural resources have a short and busy Oñati AP-1 journey to your table: extraordinary beef, lamb and pork Orduña raised in any one of the Basque villages and farms that dot Murgia the hills and valleys. And delicious beans, peppers, silver beet, Ullibarri leeks... grown in farmstead gardens in Gernika-Lumo, Arratia, Astigarraga, Ordizia or Tolosa... The hand-caught bonito, AP-68 The Unmissable destinations Mendixur 10 txipirón, hake and sea bream... Latxa sheep provide a unique Lalastra to Pamplona Estibaliz A-1 milk for the prized cheese, grapes from Getaria, Bakio Villanañe Salvatierra/Agurain 3 VITORIA-GASTEIZ 6 and Aiara/Ayala give birth to innovative txakolis, the vineyards Alegría-Dulantzi 1 A-1 Armentia San Juan de of Rioja Alavesa are the basis of unique wines and apples from Bilbao Gaztelugatxe Astigarraga and Hernani yield highly regarded ciders. Lapuebla Valle Salado de Arganzón On your trip you will discover that the hills also provide Maestu 2 7 succulent morsels: delicious dishes of woodcock, boar, San Sebastian Urdaibai Antoñana partridge, pigeon and rabbit are on offer... or a wealth of wild mushrooms. The secret of is its own superb Miranda de Ebro Santa Cruz de Campezo 3 8 Urturi Vitoria- Balenciaga ingredients and centuries of tradition. Savouring it is the Salinillas de Buradón Gasteiz Museum pleasure of gods. Lagrán Bernedo Labastida And there is a strong cast of actors committed to satisfy the Elvillar 4 9 Haro LAGUARDIA Labraza Assembly Sanctuary most refined palates. You can put them to the test when you 10 House of Loiola try the extraordinary dishes made by chefs that cultivate their AP-68 of Gernika Elciego Oion vocation and display it in the plethora of traditional and avant 5 10 LOGROÑO garde recipes they offer you. Bizkaia Laguardia Bridge tourism.euskadi.eus/en/

4 5 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM A COUNTRY WITH RESOURCES

The land and the sea have been generous to the . A thousand years of wisdom and tradition of the men and women who work their A COUNTRY wonders in restaurants, gastronomy clubs and kitchens, raises the cuisine and wine of the Basque Country to a WITH RESOURCES divine status…

he culinary tradition of this country is fruit of the passion for working with what the land and the sea provide. Today, authentically local dishes such as bacalao al pil pil (cod with hot pepper-garlic sauce) or Bizkaia- The tstyle, marmitako (tuna stew with potatoes), pourrusalda a la ondarresa (soup with potatoes, leeks, cod... from gastronomy Ondarroa), among others, acquire is the star in the hands of certain chefs a different way of expressing their essence. And this should not surprise us: such dedication must inevitably take recipes from the "olden days" on new paths of discovery, eager to face new challenges and constantly seeking to eclipse its own achievements. This has given rise to a generation of chefs that pours all its wisdom into providing new culinary experiences embodied in dishes fit for the most refined palates. Nothing escapes the urge to innovate: garden products, seafood, all kinds of meat... are transformed into sublime morsels in which the aesthetic appeal and the flavour compete for the attention of the senses of the most demanding diner. Innovation is the trend. Try it.

6 7 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM EUSKADI GASTRONOMIKA

Experience the identity of a people Euskadi Gastronomika

he gastronomy, from the most and diverse proposal at your fingertips, Gastronomy id one of the traditional to the most innovative, and for that reason we present Euskadi is one of the hallmarks of the Basque Gastronomika, a gastronomic tourism hallmarks of identity of Country and is deeply rooted in Product Club the aim of which is to the Basque Country the daily lives of the people, linked delight you with the best experiences, the to our history, customs and leisure best cuisine and the best service quality. It unites the potential of producers, activities. It has crossed frontiers and Euskadi Gastronomika is a network of products and services from every corner is acknowledged and praised all over networks based on criteria of demand of the Basque Country to provide tthe world. The secret? The excellence for and commitment to quality assumed complete, planned and comprehensive and diversity of the raw materials that by all actors involved in the process. gourmet tourism that will meet your every the sea and land of the Basque Country Therefore it is an unbeatable guarantee expectation. provide and the expertise of the great for the consumer. Basque cooks. We want to place this wide On egin! www.euskadigastronomika.eus 8 9 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS

Each day the Basque coastal and deep-sea fleets bring home their haul from generous but unforgiving tides to the fish markets. A GREAT IDEA

ine-caught hake, authentic Science and technology have been bonito del norte, tuna, monkfish, "antxoas" applied to fishing practices, so that now The Sailor's l(anchovy), "txitxarros" (mackerel), cod, about 138,000 tonnes of anchovy live "txautxas" (cuttlefish), "txipirones" (small in Basque waters. So the anchovy of the squid), and numerous other species that Cantabrian Sea remains a key ingredient Lekeitio the arrantzales (fishermen) of Bizkaia and on our tables, be it fried, battered, in oil haul from the sea are unloaded or as a paste. In one of the most picturesque every day from powerful modern fishing The Bay of holds another coastal fishing ports, you will have boats at the Basque wharves, conditioned treasure that regularly features on a guided visit to the Santa Katalina by sustainable management of the Bay Basque dinner tables: line-caught lighthouse, where you can try of Biscay. hake. Those in the know say that its the navigation simulator, storm great taste is enhanced when caught Off the hook and… by a simple rod. Arrantzales from included. closely monitored! Hondarribia are masters of these arts. Guided (or “theatrical” audio guide) You will see this for yourself when they tour of the historic old town, the arrive at port. The anchovies from the , harbour and the tuna fishing boat or "bokarta" are renowned among From the fishmarket Ondarzabal, sampling the txakoli connoisseurs. There were once fears about and pintxos (tapas). the alarming decline in anchovy stocks. to the tin from However, an exemplary collaboration of tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ biologists, institutions and the arrantzale Have a look at a can of tuna in your has achieved a balance of catch and kitchen cupboard... consumption. So you can once again try Salted, preserved and tinned fish from this tasty delicacy. Basque fisheries are world renowned. a SEA The Basque Country is responsible for 10% of the nation's fish canning in- dustry. A large part of the haul that

GETARIA comes into the docks of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa are taken to be processed and canned. Skipjack and bluefin tuna of the best fish dominate over 60% of the trade. Here they process fillets, anchovies, eels and even the world's largest production of squid ink!

10 11 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS

The Eusko Label sign of quality really marks the difference

he Basque Country's agricultural and food industry has its own mark of (Basque farmhouse) de chickens and eggs, tdistinction known as the 'Eusko Label'. honey, milk, Basque lettuce and tomato, This seal of quality and provenance, potatoes from Álava, peppers from Gernika, overseen by the Basque Government, hot green peppers from Ibarra, beans from is granted to those products produced, Tolosa, pinto beans from Álava, virgin olive from the processed and elaborated in the Basque oil, farmyard pork and natural Basque Autonomous Community, whose quality is Country cider, “Euskal Sagardoa”. Don't well above average. As such, Eusko Label miss your chance to taste the delicacies the is a guarantee of authenticity. To find that carry the Eusko Label seal of quality... it, look out for the clear 'K' symbol that or take some home as a gift. distinguishes the products. With respect to 'denominaciones de origen', You can find a wide range of products (the Spanish 'Designation of Origin' food fruit and wine qualification,) in the Basque Land with the distinctive Eusko Label: Euskal of the highest quality Okela beef, Basque suckling lamb, Bonito Country, there are five: fortxakolis del Norte and Bluefin tuna, Caserío Vasco from Araba/Álava, Getaria and Bizkaia, Idiazabal cheese and the wines from Rioja Alavesa. he choice is endless... the land The most sought after dedicated to cultivation and farming www.hazi.eus demands great effort, despite the straight to your table area allocated to agriculture in Bizkaia t The tomatoes and lettuces grown in the and Gipuzkoa being relatively modest. In huertos (vegetable gardens) and caseríos Álava, the countryside is on a different (traditional Basque farmhouses) of scale. When you visit the region, compare Hernani, Tolosa, , Gernika and Aiara- the farming output. There are a lot of Ayala provide one of the keys to success in differences when you have less space! Basque kitchens. Why you try them, you will appreciate the taste that only passion and toil can provide. The potatoes from the Álava region, both those destined for the kitchen or replanting, enjoy a well-earned reputation. And the grapes of Rioja Alavesa is the origin of wines of great prestige at home and abroad. 12 13 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS

he provenance of Basque food and farm produce ensures extraordinary quality. Even the bees that live in the Basque Country have become specialists. For each of the many honeys they produce they use lavender, clover, blackberry, rosemary, eucalyptus ort chestnut flowers! And like them, the production of the caseríos and farms are also the result of a different way of doing URKIOLA things. From the farm and the orchard… you are going to love it all TOP from In the caseríos and farms of the Basque EXPE Country, everything takes its time. The RIEN Shepard local caserío chickens, with their reddish CE plumage and yellowish skin and feet, are for a day Caserío the result of a careful selection process and spend their days on the open range. In the Urkiola Nature Reserve, The heifers reared and raised on these shepherd Patxi Solana invites us only the pastures provide delicious fillets and steaks. The great aromas in the kitchens to share the daily chores in the around here must come form somewhere! farmhouse: Milking the sheep. Make cuajada (curd) and soaps. “authentic” Traditional wool craft. Idiazabal ny of the Basque cheese tasting. And in November, Country's mountains feeding a bottle to newborn lambs. offers a gorgeous rural image, which would not be complete without the tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ flocks of Latxa sheep. The lambs are aweaned very early so that the mothers can URBIA produce up to 3 litres of milk a day. With this milk the unique features of Idiazabal cheese are assured. When you travel along the Basque roads, The prestigious World Cheese Awards look out for the images and pictures of in England have recently discovered the Latxa sheep breed, characteristic of the Basque cheeses. The recognition area. You can see them on the bumper and accolades haven't stopped stickers of many of the cars. Its a symbol since then. of this unique breed of sheep that enjoys such wide renown.

14 15 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM CUISINE

The signature dish in this country: gastronomy It is not a cliché. Here, any problem is solved around the dinner table. The pleasure From their passion for good cuisine, a science with a of sitting down divine status has evolved. Sit down and enjoy

table he Basque Country is synonymous with the best cuisine. The devotion to food is present in all aspects of life here. tIn the domestic arena, lunchtime or dinnertime take on a special significance, above all when there is one of the many celebrations and get-togethers. Business deals also provide a good excuse for a meal. One of the reasons you have chosen the Basque Country as a destination may well be its cuisine... in which case, you have excellent taste!

16 17 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM CUISINE

ARZAK BERASATEGUI SUBIJANA

The taste of glory*… hey are true master craftsmen and, year after year, they receive the recognition of the French With three Michelin Stars gourmet critics. The number of Michelin Juan Arzak (Arzak), San Sebastian Stars awarded to its accomplishments Pedro Subijana (), San Sebastian has ensured that in the heavens over the tBasque Country, there is a new stellar Martín Berasategui (Martín Berasategui), Lasarte, Gipuzkoa constellation that shines as a benchmark Eneko Atxa (Azurmendi), Larrabetzu, Bizkaia of the very best cuisine. The stream of honours and awards for Basque cuisine flows faster year after year… With two Stars A Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz), , Gipuzkoa GREAT The Basque constellation shines with its very own light IDEA

With one star Cuisine with Sergio Ortiz de Zarate (Zarate), Bilbao Traditional Fernando Canales ( Atelier Etxanobe), Bilbao Alvaro Garrido (Mina), Bilbao cooking Josean Alija (Nerua), Bilbao workshop Daniel García (Zortziko), Bilbao In an enjoyable atmosphere you Eneko Atxa (Eneko Bilbao), Bilbao Patxi Asua (Andra Mari), , Bizkaia will be initiated in the secrets of one star quality Javier Gartzia (Boroa), Amorebieta-Etxano, Bizkaia of the finest cuisines in the world, Victor Arginzoniz (Asador ), Atxondo, Bizkaia and guided by outstanding local ADURIZ ATXA Eneko Atxa (Eneko), Larrabetzu, Bizkaia chefs you will discover the love (Kokotxa), Donostia/San Sebastián Daniel López that this requires. In the cooking Rubén Trincado (Mirador de Ulía), Donostia/San Sebastián workshop they will teach you how Martín Berasategui (Eme Be Garrote), Donostia/S. Sebastian to prepare the most acclaimed The authors of the Red Michelin Paulo Airaudo (Amelia), Donostia/San Sebastián Aitor Arregui (Elkano), Getaria, Gipuzkoa Basque dishes. And afterwards Guide have their work cut out for Gorka Txapartegi (Alameda), Hondarribia, Gipuzkoa you will have the pleasure of a them in the Basque Country. Hilario Arbelaitz (Zuberoa), Oiartzun, Gipuzkoa delicious meal. Francis Paniego (Marqués de Riscal) Eltziego, Araba/Álava Their visits to Basque restaurants To visit these temples of tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ *Data as of November 2018 are a regular event. The quality cuisine is to get a little they find in its establishments is closer to heaven… growing exponentially with the These stars of the culinary arts are held chefs constantly striving to surpass in the highest esteem in these lands and themselves. When you discover some of them have moved away from the Basque Country to run restaurants the cuisine of the Basque country's and spread the reputation of the area's Michelin starred chefs, you will taste cuisine. And while they are there, the awards keep coming. It is easy to find an for yourself that they have truly award-winning restaurant here. Wherever earned the accolade... you are, there is sure to be one nearby. San Sebastian holds the world record for the highest number of Michelin Stars per inhabitant! 18 19 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM CUISINE

Restaurants, grill houses, cider breweries and wine cellars UNIQUE

all around CUISINE... If you would like a menu of grilled fish or meat, head to an erretegia (grill house). Some outstanding establishments are lo- Modern or traditional, the culinary cated in Getaria, Orio,Tolosa,, Larrabetzu or Armentia. Aromas of bream, panorama is always top drawer hake and steaks fill the air, cooked to per- fection on a grill over sweet embers. Give in to temptation… A word of advice: good n every house, gastronomy meat should be eaten rare, the fish me- club, through every txoko dium rare. (tavern), bar or restaurant in the Basque Country, Gastronomy and Cuisine are written in capital letters. In every family or association it is common With the sea to one ito find that one of its members is a man side and a great dining or woman who cooks with flair and imagination. They are the anonymous table to the other. It is a culinary masterminds working their magic feast for all the senses. with their stoves and saucepans. The secret comes from the inherited Sagardotegiak (cider breweries are other knowledge passed down from the older ) establishments that offer the same grills generations and the excellent quality of with the added delight of their pictur- the local produce. Moreover, they use any esque setting between kupelas (barrels). excuse here to lay the table and, however The wineries of Rioja Alavesa offer an- simple the meal may be, it is sure to be other fine and differentiated manner of a little feast. You'll see for yourself that dining and drinking in any corner of the dining. You should make a reservation Basque Country is a luxury well within for the day and number of diners. The everyone's reach. It stands to reason: most common dishes are chorizo with eating well forms part of the Basque potatoes or rack of lamb barbecued with culture. vine leaves.

20 21 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM CUISINE

THE THE CLUBS OF CUISINE

s would be expected in a society that values its gastro- TOP cuisine so highly, food- EXPE related festivals are the RIEN order of the day all year round. From nomy CE aJanuary through to December in town squares and gastronomy clubs, They say that the first gastronomy clubs were started in the mid 19th Century as an festivals and celebrations, hundreds of excuse for the men of the house to escape for a few hours for a little leisure time keen local cooks take part in various away from the family. Whether that is true of not, things are definitely changing and Cookery course in culinary contests that take place across the Basque Country. Their spontaneous among the 1,548 gastronomic clubs in the Basque Country and Navarra, more a San Sebastian creations of the amateurs hold their and more of these traditionally male dominated groups are opening their doors own against the professionals' dishes. to women. Beans, paellas, potatoes, snails, tortillas SARDINADA (omelettes), cod and marmitako Guided tour of the facilities in a unique, (potatoes with skipjack tuna) feature warm and friendly environment, in some of the most fiercely fought contests. Groups of friends often enter learning in the course of pintxos the contests as a team. (marmitako, a Basque tuna stew with Algorta, they compete to make the best In San Sebastian, housewives, young potatoes; milhojas – or milefeuilles paella In Balmaseda, given its mining amateurs and chefs from the local bars . – of vegetables and mallard duck; tradition, they still make the famous and taverns take part in a 'tortilla de peppers stuffed with morcilla – a type putxero (stew). In the Rioja Alavesa patatas' (Spanish omelette) competition of blood sausage – and mushrooms; on the beach at La Concha. If you region, they produce gigantic 'calderetas' walk through Bilbao's Arenal park (lamb stews). In Laudio-Llodio, stewed and “marriage of anchovies”) and during the festivals in August, you rabbit is the prize dish and amongst all savouring the traditional Basque could participate in the 'Cazuela' (stew) of them, the marmitako may be the prize lunch. contest. In the fields of Aixerrota de dish.

tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ Photo Jesús Andrade

After this, be sure to visit the Balmaseda A You may be lucky enough to see the workings of one of these clubs first hand. Try GREAT History Museum, the Passion IDEA to get an invite to one... but you can only visit when accompanied by one of the Interpretation Centre and the San club's members. It will be they that prepare the lunch or dinner and you will help Severino Church, before you head to lay the table. Putxera back out for a few more 'txikitos' (small Gastronomic Clubs may meet up anywhere, from along the docks to any glasses of wine while bar-hopping). in Balmaseda: anonymous corner of the town. Each has its own limit on the number of members, tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ from ten or twenty to around 500, with the average being 200. Cook your own putxera stew under A good proportion of the clubs allow women to attend the lunchtime sessions or for the instruction of a local who knows special celebrations. Traditions are changing little by little. Each club is different... A the secret ingredients to add to the couple of them even have a female president! beans, bacon and chorizo. Enjoy tucking into a putxera, cooked over The most important thing is good company, lively conversation and a hotly disputed game of cards accompanied by a glass of the local anis, 'patxaran'. Sound good the coals with a low flame in a typical to you? STEW CONTEST IN BILBAO txoko tavern. www.sociedadesgastronomicas.com

22 23 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM CUISINE

It must have something to do with the Atlantic climate, or the abundance of top quality natural ingredients that the area offers. It could also be a certain creativity or restlessness that is transmitted from generation to generation, with its apron, pots and pans. In the Basque Country, devotion to cuisine is all encompassing!

t was the 'amamas' (grandmas) who in the 'caseríos', inherited The 'amamas' the secrets and recipes from their ancestors that have brought such fame to traditional Basque cuisine. have always known Thisi knowledge was shared with the BACALAO PIL-PIL men of the house. In each Basque home, you will find an extraordinary wealth of of the knowledge – both from him and from her SLOW – of advanced cooking principles. Their larders and suppliers provoke admiration Home cooked, as potatoes, cod with pil-pil (garlic) sauce and the healthiest of envy! or Biscay style, red and white meats, always… perretxikos omelette (spring mushroom) To begin with, you should know that the and snails are other dishes deeply bread made in the 'caseríos' was once rooted in local custom. These are typical made of corn in the shape of a flat cake A cold rainy day used to be the perfect products still prepared on a daily basis (talo), that later gave way to wheaten excuse for preparing a good babarruna FOOD (bean stew) on a winter's day. Nowadays, in remote caseríos and offered to the bread. Today the sourdough is mixed with public at fairs and markets. a variety of organic whole grain flours the any day is a good day to enjoy this dish, garnished with its 'sacred ingredients': quality of which will surprise you. The curd is one of the favourite desserts bacon, piparrak (chillies) and odolkiak in the Basque Country. Produced (black pudding). Don't miss out. seasonally from sheep's milk, try it Some humble potatoes with chorizo with sugar or honey. If you are lucky, cooked in Álavan territory will haunt your the shepherd will have given it a special memory for a long time. You will also love flavour by inserting a hot piece of iron the dishes based on garden products like into it. pourrusalda (leek broth), a very healthy The variety is endless, and each home traditional recipe. TALO has its jealously guarded recipes. The local Cardos (edible thistles) and Although they are all different, the end vainas (beans) hake in green sauce with result is the same: superb!

24 25 tx

BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM RECIPES

COD to Biscay Style KIDNEY HAKE in SQUID in BEANS with GREEN INGREDIENTS (for 4 diners) their 'SACRED 4 salted cod loins, 3 red onions, their own SAUCE re 2 cloves of garlic, 10 'choricero' peppers, INGREDIENTS' 1 leek, flour or 3 slices of stale bread, INK POTATOES olive oil, salt INGREDIENTS (for 4 diners) (for 4 diners) INGREDIENTS with CHORIZO 300 g of Tolosa beans or Alava pinto 500 g of txipirones (baby squid), 2 beans, 200 g of pork ribs, 100 g bacon, 150 g chorizo 1 black pudding made with envelopes of squid ink 1 ripe tomato, 2 INGREDIENTS (for 4 diners) ci large onions, 1 clove garlic, 1 glass of onions, 1 onion, 1 green pepper, 1 leek, white wine, 1 piece of stale bread, olive 1 kg potatoes, 500 g of cooking chorizo, 2 cloves garlic, Ibarra hot peppers, olive oil, salt 2 cloves garlic, 1 onion, 1/2 red pepper, oil, salt 1 Italian green pepper, 500 ml of water, sweet or spicy paprika from the Vera PREPARATION PREPARATION region, olive oil, black pepper, salt Leave the beans to soak the day before. pes Stir-fry in a saucepan bathed in olive oil, chopped onion, sliced garlic and finely PREPARATION Cook the ribs and bacon with water and a chopped tomatoes. Allow the onion to pinch of salt for 30 minutes in the pressure soften. Finely chop the onion, green and red cooker. Drain and set aside. pepper. The classics PREPARATION Then add the diced stale bread and leave Cook the black pudding and chorizo in a Place the onion and peppers in a separate pot in water with a pinch of salt INGREDIENTS (for 2 diners) The salted cod must be soaked in for a few minutes until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. saucepan, adding salt and pepper to taste for 40 minutes at slow heat. 4 thick slices of hake, 250 grams frequently-changed water for 24 hours from and a laurel leaf. Chop the onion, green pepper and leek of clams, 125 ml of fish broth, 2 before use. Add the squid ink mixed with the white Cook gently on a slow flame for around and lightly fry in the pressure cooker with tablespoons white wine, wine. Cook for half an hour. 4 cloves of garlic, chopped parsley, To make the sauce: take a pan and add 15 minutes. a little olive oil. cuisine Meanwhile, take the opportunity to clean flour enough olive oil to cover the bottom. the squid. Meanwhile, peel dice the potatoes, cut Drain and add the beans. Cover with water, olive oil and salt. the chorizo into thick slices, add to the season and close, allowing 30 minutes Cook the finely chopped onion on low You may like to stuff them with their own saucepan and stir. cooking time. PREPARATION These are still the most typical heat until it begins to brown. Add the tentacles. If so, chop them up and insert into the body. Add a teaspoon of paprika and stir in. The beans are then served with their dishes of traditional Basque chopped garlic and leeks. Dice and add sacred ingredients. The hot Ibarra peppers Soak the clams in salty water for the bread and one or two spoonfuls of When the sauce is ready, strain through Add water as required and boil for 10 are the ideal accompaniment. an hour to allow them to eject any cooking and are still among the remaining sand. flour, just enough to thicken the sauce. a purée sieve to obtain a creamy liquid. minutes. favourites. Most restaurants, even Add the potatoes and boil for another 20 Peel and finely chop the garlic. Place Remove the seeds from the peppers and Add the txipirones and cook for 20 the most innovative, include them minutes. minutes at medium heat. the oil in a saucepan and heat. Add leave them soaking in cold water. Bring the garlic and brown slightly. Stir in on the menu. Fish and garden Taste to assess the seasoning (salt and to the boil and then change of the water. Now it only remains to lick your lips. a spoonful of flour and leave for half products are the main stars of this pepper), adjust as necessary and... to the a minute. Bring to the boil again. They are now table. firmament. The list is long. And you ready to use. Remove the skin and add Add the wine and fish broth and heat can't go wrong. the flesh to the sauce. Strain through a up. purée sieve (never use a mixer) to obtain Add the chopped parsley and the hake. a smooth mixture. Cook for three minutes after each step, shaking the saucepan gently. Place the cod on the sauce with the skin Add the clams and continue to shake upward and cook on a slow flame for a the saucepan until the sauce thickens. few minutes. Enjoy! Your dish will be ready in a few minutes. You won't believe how good it is.

26 27 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM SWEET

A GREAT IDEA BASQUE TART

And for dessert...

Other sweets are also featured on the menus. One example is "Intxaur- Saltsa,"a traditional dessert based on walnuts, and mamia or sheep milk curds that you can enjoy on its own or with honey from Gorbea. Another local dessert is Idiazabal cheese, a

COCOTES product with Designation of Origin that combines brilliantly with quince jelly. A very sweet country And if you are in Älava, don't miss the "Goxua" (layered cream cake).

In Markina-Xemein the cocotes share the top billing with brioches and opillas TEJAS Y CIGARRILLOS (tarts) in Irún, sanblases (cookies) in Rioja Alavesa or the bizcochos (sponge) and chocolates from . If you have a sweet tooth, the chocolate truffles of Vitoria-Gasteiz and Bilbao are gastronomy so rich You will be offered cigarrillos and inimitable. The vasquitos and nesquitas in “savouries” has to tejas in Tolosa and ori-baltzak, a white and the San Prudencio tart from the have its counterpart chocolate sponge cake in Gernika- capital of Alava are also exquisite. in “sweets”. So it is Lumo. Bergara is famous for its fillings The bilbainitos, rice cakes, Carolinas, not surprising to find that each province and tostones. The pastel vasco (gâteau (chocolate meringues) Pastel ruso, MAMIA has its own specialities, all different Basque) and apple pie are characteristic (baked meringues) Torta de San Blas froma one another, that you will find in and highly appreciated throughout the (biscuits with icing)... in Bilbao Another typical dessert, this time of the bakeries any town you visit. Basque Country. Vasco-French origin, is Basque tart, Txutxitos (puff cakes) from Vitoria- that you can try filled with baker's Gasteiz, Ignacios from Azpeitia, xaxus cream or fruit like cherries or apricots. VASQUITOS & NESQUITAS from Tolosa, pantxineta and franchipán It is always juicy inside and crisp on from San Sebastian... CAROLINAS the outside. Absolutely delicious! Everything you choose will take you back to forgotten taste sensations. 28 29 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM PINTXOS

It all started off with the humble Gildas (chillies with olives and anchovy), bandarrillas (pickles speared on a toothpick) and the simple Péles or boiled eggs. The idea was a little something to eat between glasses of wine. Bars and taverns elaborated on the idea and those first straightforwardpintxos gave rise to the sophisticated science of nanogastronomy.

It is easy to lose yourself in the limitless world of the pintxo

xipiron stuffed with crème of boletus (porcini), eggplant with cheese and From bar to bar or salmon bathed in cream yoghurt on toast, sautéed vegetable in the same tavern... mile-feuilles... these are only a foretaste experience the art of of the delicious and sophisticated pintxos tyou will find in any bar when you drop pintxos in for a glass of wine. You will savour many surprising creations in this new PINTXOS world of taste sensations. A few tips to ensure that you find the most popular and appealing areas: The the greatness Marina district in Hondarribia, the streets of 31 de Agosto, Mayor, Embeltrán and Reyes Católicos in San Sebastian, the of cuisine in miniature districts of the Casco Viejo (Old Town), Diputación and Poza in Bilbao, and the streets of Cuchillería, Dato, Prado and Rioja in Vitoria-Gasteiz… and

in the centre of each and every town GILDA throughout the Basque Country. The list is endless!

30 31 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM PINTXOS A different way to have lunch

s you pass through The men and women who run the local any Basque town and bars and restaurants go to ever greater Cuisine in miniature is your stomach starts to lengths to develop this form of culinary rumble, you will face expression which, due to its great popu- quite a spectacle a tough decision: a traditional meal sit- larity, has spread to neighbouring regions ting around a table or go for the option and to some of the world's most glamor- a ous establishments. Should you wear a napkin or a white pintxos a few drinks of and ? Both alterna- laboratory coat? Nanogastronomy tives are very appealing but in the end, the You can find them anywhere around the assimilates some of the molecular cuisine pintxo option usually wins out. Basque Country. Food experts and gour- of Adriá, Blumenthal, Gagnaire and This… mets fill the best local establishments. But there's no need to go so far: The How many can you try? Basque bars and When the food is this good, word spreads. Basque Country is home to the pioneers cafés have over 3,000 different types of You will be astonished as you work your of the pintxo 3.0. pintxos on offer along with the small way through the list of sophisticated servings of stew and bite-size portions of pintxos on offer, some of which give off The plentiful range on Haute cuisine in miniature has turned into traditional and innovative recipes! clouds of liquid nitrogen while others look offer in the bars is always quite a spectacle! So much so that the like a nest of vipers. Tradition has been Campeonato Euskal Herria de Pintxos (Basque blended with the latest technologies. growing and evolving... pintxo championship) held in Hondarribia, is broadcast by Basque television as if it were the World Cup Final.

www.campeonatodepintxos.com A GREAT Contests with a mark of IDEA distinction Pintxo workshop in Check the schedules. It should not be San Sebastian too hard to find one of the many pintxo Passion for fine food, tradition, quality and international fame ... you are in competitions that take place all over the San Sebastian, which means a visit to a market, a gourmet shop ... Basque Country: The Championship of The Old Town is also a must. The workshop is led by an expert chef, and Gipuzkoa, of Sopelana, the inter-bar Pintxos then afterwards, sampling of the pintxos that have been prepared. championship of Bilbao-Bizkaia, of Deusto, of the Medieval Cities, the Vitoria-Gasteiz tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ Championship of Pintxo Week and the Pintxo Championship of Zumarraga.

www.vitoria-gasteiz.org sansebastianturismo.com www.bilbaoturismo.net

32 33 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM

Rioja Alavesa TXAKOLI VINEYARDS renowned quality

To say that wine is the economic motor of the Rioja Alavesa region may seem Txakoli: obvious, but you may not be aware A seductive wine how far its reputation has travelled. Although it was in 1991 when wines Not all Basque wine is from from Rioja earned the distinction of the Rioja Alavesa region… The 'calificada' (qualified) added to the provinces of Getaria, the Biscay 'Denominación de Origen', the Real Coast, Gernika and Aiara in Álava Junta de Cosecheros (Royal Board produce the 'other' Basque wine of Winemakers) had already been that enjoys the distinction of the set up by 1787 to foster planting of 'denominación de origen': txakoli. vineyards and to enhance the quality of the wines. If you would like to discover another side to wine, uncork a If it is a world that interests you, you bottle after seeing how it is made. Countryside, culture and gastronomy... all rolled into one may like to know that the main varieties of grape authorized by the Regulatory Some say it is their Council are, for reds: tempranillo, acidic character that is grenache, graciano, carignan and The pleasure maturana tinta. For the whites: viura, the key to their success malvasía, grenache blanc, tempranillo Usually white - also red or rosé of blanco, maturana blanca, turruntés, - with its own personality and chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and growing presence on tables all verdejo. Around 79% of the wine travel over the world, txakoli is made produced in the Rioja Alavesa region from Hodarribia txuri and beltz comes from the tempranillo grape. through wine and munemahatsa grapes. Each It is always interesting to visit the area has its own wine tourist route. wineries and soak up the wine culture, Txakoli vineyards are different... especially in a land that produces

A STROLL THROUGH THE VINEYARDS OF RIOJA ALAVESA wines that are world renowned for their quality.

34 35 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM

A RIOJA GREAT A LAVESA IDEA Passion for wine CALADO Wineries and tradition in Rioja Alavesa

An authentic winemaker will he region of Rioja Alavesa has earth that gives the vines and grapes a The region is working to restore its teach you how wines are made been an historic part on the route special character when producing crianzas ancient olive groves. In Moreda and in a land where the people live of hundreds of cultures making (wines aged for two years in barrels) and Lanciego, you can visit two attractive by and for wine. You can choose their way from the Mediterranean reservas (wines ages at least three years olive presses and in Barriobusto, an olive between different wineries where to the Bay of Biscay. These thousand years in barrels). oil museum. you will learn how to taste wines of culture has left a rich mark. Dolmens, t The human touch is also evident in Rioja And of you coincide with a theatrical which will fascinate your palate. vineyards, olive groves, architectural Alavesa. The works of architects such as visit. So much the better! wonders, burial sites, chapels, bridges, Mazières, Calatrava, Aspiazu, Gehry and paths, wineries and cellars tell tales of www.arabaerrioxa.eus Marino, to name a few, can be seen in these lands through the ages. www.riojalavesa.com the outstanding buildings and wineries, www.alavaturismo.eus Rioja Alavesa is located between the but the wine cellars and family-owned www.rutadelvinoderiojaalavesa.com tranquil left bank of the Ebro River wineries in Laguardia, Lapuebla de http://riojaalavesaturismo.com/ and the high slopes of the Cantabria Labarca, Leza and Navaridas, will certainly mountain range that rises to a thousand. impress you just as much, despite having This spectacular geography has forced the less famous creators. locals to plant the vineyards on terraces But pay attention. There's a lot more to and gentle slopes with clay and chalky the place than vineyards! Experiences for the 5 Ancient wisdom and cutting-edge technology: the know-how of senses a culture that has made wine its passion in Rioja Alavesa You will never forget them. The Rioja LAGUARDIA Enjoy a guided visit to the Villa Alavesa wines, along with those from Lucía Wine Centre and attend Rioja Baja and Rioja Alta, all hold the a 4D projection of “In the land distinction of the Denominación de of dreams”, with numerous Origen Calificada Rioja (The Rioja sensory effects. Wine, or mosto Designation of Origen). Almost three (unfermented grape juice), thousand hectares of vineyards are tasting. Hydrothermal circuit cultivated to produce some excel- session at the facilities of the lentcrianzas, reservas and young wines. “Wine Oil Spa Villa de Laguardia” They regularly win the top prizes in and lunch featuring local cuisine the international wine contests in in the Bistró Villa de Laguardia which the take part. restaurant. The 'vendimia' (grape harvest) takes THEATRICAL VISIT place in September. A great excuse tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ to visit the area! 36 37 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM

A route through the architecture of wine

History with open walls

The imposing structures of the new wineries Numerous megalithic monuments tell

ELCIEGO underline a new conception of the world and ELVILLAR of a past that dates back 3,000 years markets of the Rioja Alavesa wines.

hen on the road from Laguardia and Faustino in Oion, offer Wine presses in he Basque people discovered the You will also soak up the history here. On the far west border of Rioja Alavesa Laguardia or Lapuebla de other attractive destinations for your virtues of Rioja Alavesa thousands The medieval origins of Rioja Alavesa, the town of Salinillas de Buradón proudly Labarca, Elciego comes titanium and glass trip around the Rioja Alavesa region. of years ago. Each of its towns between Navarre and Castile, explain maintains its defensive walls, towers and into view in the distance, In the tourist offices in Laguardia, boasts a rich historical heritage the presence of numerous walled towns. the mansion of the Condes de Oñate. it will shine with iridescent silver, gold w Labastida and Elciego, you can find that can't fail to attract your attention. Labraza is one of them. It has won the There is a saltwater spring that attracts and pink sparkles… the proud centrepiece information about the constant tourism tSome worth noting are the dolmens of International Award for Walled Towns due hundreds of tourists every year. You are of the new installations designed by initiatives that are going on around the Layaza, the Herrera pass, Sotillo, San Martín, to its excellent state of conservation. The sure to enjoy yourself! Schedule in a fun Frank Gehry at the BodegasVinos de los Rioja Alavesa region and about visits to Enjoy a cycle ride La Huesera in Laguardia, La Chabola de la hundred inhabitants live like feudal lords Herederos del Marqués de Riscal winery day of wine tourism in Rioja Alavesa. the wineries and cellars. Hechicera in Elvillar, El Encinal and Los in one of Álava's most attractive villages. draws everyone's attention. Within a few among vineyards Wine-related architecture is impressive. Llanos in Kripan. The numerous cave wine steps, you can pass from the 21st century Nearby Laguardia dominates the centre www.rutadelvinoderiojaalavesa.com Santiago Calatrava presses still preserved in may places are wine cellars to the most avant-garde drew inspiration from Discover the vineyards and wineries of the province. Its city walls and towers a wine glass and rows of barrels to give also fascinating. architecture of the wine world. of Rioja Alavesa on this beautiful shelter a hive of activity in which tourism form to the winery and he came up with You can visit the Iron Age forts of Castros holds a privileged status. If you have Ysios which, next to Laguardia, stands route by ebike. You'll set off from the de Buradón, near Labastida. Close to out for its undulating roof line and village of Labastida in the company the opportunity, take a guided tour Laguardia, the proto-historic village of La which includes the portal of Santa María backdrop of the Cantabria Sierra. of a guide who'll tell you about Hoya contains a museum that traces the Church. It is not only well-preserved, but In Samaniego, the wine-related the culture, landscape and most way of life neatly three thousand years remarkable for other reasons. architecture offers a spectacle of light important traditions of the area along ago. You will be surprised by the violent and shadow, with great open spaces of the way. Back in Labastida you'll visit history that explains how the inhabitants glass and concrete perfectly integrated met their end, in a torment of arrows, fire a traditional winery, where you'll be with its surroundings. Iñaki Aspiazu is the and spears! mastermind behind these installations able to taste their wines together with TREADING THE GRAPES at the Bodegas Baigorri winery. a delicious snack.

The French architect Philippe Mazières LABRAZA designed the CVNE winery in Laguardia. tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ Both the wineries of Campillo in 38 39 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM

he warm, moist winds from the TXA Bay of Biscay assist cultivation of great vineyards in the Basque Country devoted to Distribution assured. With three "txakoli" together with the caserios of separate 'designations of origin' –Getaria, the coast of Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia or the Aiara-Ayalat valley in Álava. It is twenty Bizkaia and Araba – "txakoli" is sought- years since its inclusion in the D.O, a With the taste of txakoli after throughout the sophisticated distinction that led to a positive growth You can visit working wineries and take part in tastings, sometimes at night, to learn and innovative international wine and evolution of this wine KO the secrets of this very special wine. markets. Its flavour is distinct With the breeze from the In passing you will also get to know coastal and inland towns full of local colour and from any other. With its appealing traditions. You will see the vineyards that produce the grape that performs the magic of turning into "txakoli". acidic character, many say that it Cantabrian Sea When they show you how to combine it with other local products like Idiazabal complements fish well... try it for The districts of Getaria, Zarautz, Amurrio, cheese, Bermeo anchovies or Gernika peppers you will feel like a qualified sommelier. yourself. Bakio and Orduña offer entertaining And remember that txakoli from the Basque Country boasts 3 'denominaciones de tours that combine local culture with origen': LI gastronomy and wine tasting. • Araba/Álava (Aiara-Ayala and Alto Nervión) “Arabako txakolina” www.txakolidealava.com · http://aiaraldea.org/en/txakoli-route a wine that crosses borders • Getaria (, Orio, Zarautz and Getaria) “Getariako txakolina” www.getariakotxakolina.com • Bizkaia (Bakio and Gernika-Lumo) “Bizkaiko txakolina” www.bizkaikotxakolina.org And if you prefer to enjoy the experience in a winery: tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ TOP EXPE RIEN Three star txakoli: the wine CE and gastronomy experience of Azurmendi Enter the world of txakoli on a guided tour of this wine and gastronomy complex led by Atxa Eneko, renowned chef of the Azurmendi restaurant, which has been awarded 3 Michelin stars. Three wine and gastronomy options from which to choose. tourism.euskadi.eus/en/

40 41 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM

to the beat of the triki-trixa TOP EXPE If you are lucky, your visit to a cider brewery will coincide with a festive RIEN triki-trixa celebration with accordions CE and tambourines. The experience is well worth it. To get a full appreciation of the world of cider, you can visit Sagardoetxea (The Cider Museum) in Astigarraga, the CIDER HOUSES capital of Basque cider. This is where the 'agardun' project was developed to keep the culture of the apple alive.

In -Itsaso, the Igartubeiti Caserío Museum offers a diverse range of fun activities all involving apples and showing Txotx! how a tolare, the cider press, works. Cider and txotx! The districts of San Sebastian, Tolosa, , Aramaio and Gernika boast (cider directly numerous sagardotegiak (cider breweries). from the barrel) is the magic word as a family www.sagardoarenlurraldea.eus www.sagardoa.eus The world of the Basque cider houses opens up before you: you will visit the farmhouse and the apple orchards, and see how the hen you hear the cry apples are processed ... all in an of 'txotx!', take your entertaining and enjoyable way. glass over to the A trip to a cider brewery The cider cellar awaits you along kupela (barrel) offered should figure on any itinerary with a typical cider house menu, by the cider maker from the province of around the Basque Country. with cider in the 'txotx' style wDonostialdea or another of the Basque (directly from the kupela, or barrel) Country's cider producing regions, catch Traditionally, people eat and apple juice for the kids, who two fingers worth mid-air from the jet of standing up, helping will also receive a small gift. cider spurting out of side of the barrel and then move out of the way to let the next themselves from the barrel person take their turn. Afterwards, tuck The custom of "txotx!" originated from taps and singing. Cider and the sea into a superb steak… standing at a barrel the tasting sessions in which a client or sitting at a table. This is the ceremony Relive the adventure of whaling, would try various barrels before making a of the sidrerías (cider breweries). discover its connection with purchase. The custom has been adapted cider and savour the cuisine For centuries, all Basque caseríos have for modern times and now the cider associated with it, in a guided visit been sure to have one nearby with its breweries of Gipuzkoa, Bizkaia and Álava to the Sagardoetxea Basque Cider majestic apple trees. Ten days after the open their doors to whoever fancies lunch Museum: You will eat in a cider apples have picked and stored, the juice or dinner there and they now feature TRIKI-TRIXA house, take a boat trip across the (zizarra) is extracted with the help a cider firmly on the restaurant circuit. bay of La Concha and visit the press and fermented to produce cider aquarium, also with a guide. (sagardoa). tourism.euskadi.eus/en/

42 43 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM THE MARKETS

It couldn't be any fresher From the caserío to the market... Both the markets of caserío produce and the fishermen's latest haul offer easily available ...and to your freshness, quality and contact with the producers themselves

hatever time of year you visit the area, the local table produce markets are always open in any of the main Basque towns. If you visit one you will deal GERNIKA-LUMO MARKET wwith "baserritarras" (countrymen) just as their regular customers do.

44 45 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM THE MARKETS

In no time at all from the fishing docks to the markets...

SALE OF IDIAZABAL CHEESE

he markets and fairs thrive on the personal contact between clients and the producers of the food. A few worth a special Markets and Fairs mention in San Sebastian: La Bretxa, El Antiguo and San A On various occasions throughout the year, GREAT Martín. Without leaving they organize special markets such as IDEA Gipuzkoa, in the town of Ordizia those of Santo Tomás in the three Basque on Wednesdays you can see how capitals, the Salvatierra-Agurain livestock they fix the market prices that all other fair, the potato fair in Valdegovía-Gaubea, parts of the territory use as a reference. Visit to a market the Santiago market in Vitoria-Gasteiz, In Tolosa on Saturdays you can get your the Pimiento de Gernika day, the Mercado thands on some superb beans and black The experience is well worth it, not only Agrícola (farmers' market in Balmaseda) pudding. for the riot of colour of the fare before or Tolosa Goxua: Sweets fair in Tolosa. your eyes but because you will have Bilbao never does things by halves! Cider, cheese, the txistorra" skipjack the chance to talk to the baserritarras According to the Guinness Book of " tuna, anchovies, mackerel and the local (country people) who have cultivated all Records, La Ribera is the world's biggest txakoliare some of the treats awaiting you these fruits and vegetables. produce market, as well as taking the title in the colourful fairs and market days in of largest covered market in Europe. The atmosphere created around the Astigarraga, Ordizia, Orio, Hondarribia and markets is another good reason for It has to be a Monday. The market in Zarautz or Bermeo going. In one way or another you will Gernika opens its doors on the first day People appreciate the seasonal nature be immersed in the most authentic of the week throughout the year and, as of food here: the spring's first Idiazabal expression of the people. a special and highly popular day, on the cheeses, the summer fruit and vegetables, tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ first and last Monday of October which the autumn perretxiko" wild mushrooms always draws a crowd. On Saturdays, you " , from autumn, beans in winter… may also find some tasty seasonal treats on offer! In Vitoria-Gasteiz, the market couldn't LA BRETXA MARKET be easier to get to, it's right in the city centre in the Plaza de Abastos which still buzzes with its traditional, intense activity. Each Saturday they display a selection of fruit, vegetables and cheeses around the outside of the market

46 47 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM GOURMET SHOPPING A gourmet 100% native Añana salt flower apples Añana salt is considered "one of out shopping… Certain areas of the Basque the best salts in the world", and Country have a long cider- is backed by the testimony of Cheeses with a quality seal making tradition. Natural prestigious chefs who use it in their In the Basque Country milk from the native cider from the Basque Country with the Eusko Label quality restaurants. Four types of salt are Latxa sheep breed produces a delicious cheese of Olive oil with seal is a superior quality produced... Choose one for your recognised prestige. This is the Idiazabal cheese with the Eusko Label cider produced in the favourite recipes. designation of origin. that you will love to savour in caseríos by expert hands, Extra Virgin Olive Oil with the always using traditional any of its varieties, white or smoked. Taking some Eusko Label is a delicious, techniques. home as a gift is a great idea. high quality product make entirely in the Basque Country. Subjected to strict TOP controls, the result is a EXPE product considered very rich RIEN in nutrients. CE

A pinch of salt in the salt valley

From the fishmarket to the tin A guided tour will introduce you to Beans with a quality seal The fame of the fish preserves of the secrets of the salt of Añana, including its historical-cultural, natural, They are classified as "excellent" Basque origin is worldwide. The productive, therapeutic (saline spa) by prestigious experts and do Basque Country is responsible for not bear the Eusko Label seal 10% of the nation's fish canning and culinary facets... It will surprise of quality in vain. The current industry: bonito, tuna, anchovies... you in all senses. varieties are the Tolosa kidney bean You'll taste the difference. and the pinto bean from Alava. tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ www.vallesalado.com Txakolí: our white wine There are three D.O., namely The wines of the Arabako Txakolina, Getariako Rioja Alavesa Txakolina and Bizkaiko Txakolina, Indulge yourself Crianzas (two years in oak and all are traded on innovative A sweet tradition barrels), reservas (at least international wine markets. When Have them on their own or Simply delicious: truffles, vasquitos three years in oak) and you try them you will discover accompanied by kidney beans, as a and neskitas, bilbainitos, brioches young wines are included in their talent for accompanying a "Gilda" (with olives and anchovies) (rolls), cigarrillos, tejas from Tolosa, the Rioja "Denominación de variety of traditional products: or together with different pintxos. ori-baltzak. The variety of Basque Origen Calificada" (Qualified Idiazábal cheese, Bermeo antxoas Ibarra hot peppers with the Eusko pastry-making is a challenge to Designation of Origin ). Their (anchovies), Gernika peppers... Label quality seal are an authentic your senses. Let yourself go. quality ensures that they SALINAS DE AÑANA indulgence. constantly occupy the top places in international wine 48 contests. Your palate will agree. 49 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM GASTRONOMIC CULTURE

THE TRAINING OPTIONS FOR THOSE WITH A PASSION FOR COOKING NOW INCLUDES A DEGREE COURSE

cuisine with so much status of the University of Mondragón. personality and deeply rooted The students at the centre come from tradition was destined to all over the world with dreams of taking CASERÍO IGARTUBEITI MUSEUM Aoverflow the boundaries of the arts of gastronomy, catering and the kitchen and transmit its techniques the food industry to new levels. Their museums, interpretation centres, universities... and values through higher education. The teachers include the crème de la crème goal is to train excellent chefs to take up of modern Basque cuisine: Juan Mari the baton from the current stars in the Arzak, Martín Berasategui, Pedro Subijana, Great cuisine needs to be explained and... gastronomic firmament. Karlos Argiñano, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Hilario Arbelaitz and Eneko Atxa. You can Here in the Basque Country the love of imagine the privilege it is to attend their cooking is instilled even before entry into master classes. one of the twelve Catering Schools that increase their student numbers year after In the lecture halls and classrooms year. These schools combine research there is constant talk of culinary ...understood with practical and theoretical training production and preparation systems, within the overall objective of providing business management, customer their students with an approach to the service, gastronomic culture, staff and Once you have discovered the Wine and cider matters reality of the profession. The broadly- client management... all the scientific effort and passion that goes into the based training combines innovation with fundamentals applied to cuisine. There tradition, in line with the benchmark are three special in-depth courses on traditional stews, what are the best he Basque Country is home to various gastronomy museums and And speaking of wine, any winery in set by a generation of chefs that has offer too: The cutting edge of cuisine, flours to use or why a particular wine interpretation centres. Rioja Alavesa is a museum or academy. represented - and continues to represent innovation, business and entrepreneurship, makes a good crianza, the flavours If you would like to know more, the - a gastronomic milestone. and the food industry. A fitting level for In Ordizia in the Gipuzcano Wine Centre of Villa Lucia in Laguardia will the next generation of top chefs! and experience will be enhanced as highlands, you can find theD´elikatuz The Basque Culinary Center in the Miramón take you through the production process Technology Park in San Sebastian is a tFood and Gastronomy Interpretation Centre. www.bculinary.com you enjoy the food with all the five of wine, with virtual wine tasting and university faculty that is now imparting the senses. It will taste better than ever Ezkio-Itsaso is home to the Igartubeiti games. first courses with official university degree Caserío Museum, where the main accent The town of Astigarraga is home to the is on cider, without neglecting other Sagardoetxea Apple and Cider Interpretation activities that illustrate life in the Centre. The museum is set in an orchard homestead. and uses the most up to date resources designation of origin and offers tastings. There are numerous activities related to and technology, interactive exhibits, cheese that you will find fascinating. You If you are interested in the world of photographs and games to bring the will get to know the flocks of sheep, their txakoli, visit Bakio: the Txakolingune story of the humble apple to life. shepherds and caseríos, even how to make (Txakoli Museum) programmes a host of www.idiazabalturismo.com cheese or curds which you will be able to activities centred on the wine. www.delikatuz.com taste on the spot. There are more than www.tolosaldea.eus twenty working dairies open to visitors As you can see there are endless options to www.sagardoarenlurraldea.eus throughout the Basque Country. learn all about the cuisine and its secrets. www.villa-lucia.com The Idiazabal Cheese Interpretation Centre www.bizkaiko.bizkaia.eus located here reveals the secrets of the www.gastromuseums.com

50 51 BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM UNMISSABLE EXPERIENCES

The Unmissable destinations 10 of wine tourism and gastronomy in the Basque Country...

A trip to the Basque Country gives you the chance to taste any of its gastronomic delights and its superb The secrets wines. It is your opportunity to A menu from A restaurant of great experience the essence of a country 1 2 A pintxos 3 4 cuisine 5 a cider house that has always been passionate that has made Cod and rare steak only Txakoli When you head home, you will about great food with top quality route by the cry of "txotx!", your its name take all the tips and tricks picked ingredients, lovingly prepared and served cold signal to grab a glass and To enjoy a meal in miniature up in the various gastronomic head to the kupela (barrel) shared once cooked with friends and Take your while you share conversation and Accompanied by contests you have seen with to fill up with cider. neighbours. pick of the laughter. good seafood or fish you. You will be the spiciest 'pil- many world in any port or caserío. pil' of all the sauces renowned Always served chilled. round the table! restaurants with Michelin Starred chefs on offer. Catus et voluptia dolorro vent venis doles pore rent es ari cus. hil eum hit eos aut ipis et quod quo

Eat like Visit A nice drop The traditional A 'freskue' fish a market of Rioja at home 6 7 8sweets 9Freshly caught 10The love and knowledge market Alavesa and straight It is easy to find the perfect gift that goes into the food from the docks, at hundreds of family Chat to the local food producers Set within city walls to take home in the Basque don't miss your restaurants will give you that that offer you the very best from and friendly villages, Country. You and your loved chance to taste home cooked experience. ...we invite you their lands any of the local wine ones are sure to relish the anchovies, cellars that take traditional sweets and cakes. skipjack tuna, to try them. your fancy The perfect souvenir. bream... and provides your the pleasure chance to taste of licking your the best local fingers after vintages. eating sardines of the best straight off the wines. grill. 52 53

BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM EVENTS PRACTICAL INFO January Txakoli Day in Getaria Practical INFO LEKEITIO March 946 844 017 · www.lekeitioturismo.eus 943 889 900 · www.zumalakarregimuseoa.eus Chacinería Fair in BASQUE TOURIST OFFICE MENDATA PASAIA-OARSOALDEA TWELVE MONTHS... tourism.euskadi.eus/en/ 946 257 204 · www.mendata.eus 943 341 556 · www.oarsoaldeaturismoa.eus Presentation of the Txakoli vintage in Bakio ÁLAVA TOURIST OFFICE MUNDAKA SAN SEBASTIAN REGION April www.alavaturismo.eus 946 177 201 · www.mundakaturismo.com 943 415.151 · www.sansebastianregion.com Artzain Eguna (Shepherd's Day) in Atxondo BIZKAIA TOURIST OFFICE MUSKIZ SAN SEBASTIAN TOURIST OFFICE Vegetable Day in Mutriki www.visitbiscay.eus 946 802 976 · www.visitenkarterri.com 943 481 166 · www.sansebastianturismo.com of culinary dates GIPUZKOA TOURIST OFFICE SEGURA (CASA ARDIXARRA) hundreds Pintxo and wine week in Rioja Alavesa, www.sansebastianregion.com ONDARROA 943 801 749 · www.goierriturismo.com Vitoria-Gasteiz 946 831 951 · www.ondarroa.eus NEKATUR/AGROTURISMOS TOLOSA TOLOSALDEA TOUR Txakoli Day in Aia 943 327 090 · www.nekatur.net ORDUÑA 945 384 384 · www.urduna.com 943 697 413 · www.tolosaldea.eus May OROZKO ZARAUTZ Tourist Offices 943 830 990 · www.turismozarautz.com Are you a fan of tasting sessions, attracts top chefs and gastronomic critics, Antxoa Eguna (Anchovy Day) in Ondarroa 946 122 695 · www.orozkoudala.com in Antoñana PLENTZIA The Honey Festival of Montaña Alavesa Araba/Álava 943 802 187 · www.goierriturismo.eus traditional cookery contests, culinary but its doors are always open to those who 946 774 199 · www.plentzia.org Sagardo Eguna (Cider Day) in AMURRIO festivals and local produce fairs? only aspire to enjoy good food. Txakoli Eguna in Amurrio 945 393 704 · www.amurrioturismo.com PORTUGALETE 943 801 505 · www.zerain.eus 944 729 314 · www.portugalete.org Fish Fair in Bermeo ELCIEGO Your schedule will be easy to arrange 945 606 632 · www.elciego.es SANTURTZI 943 868 812 · www.zestoa.eus June 944 839 494 · www.turismo.santurtzi.net Throughout the year, there are special LABASTIDA ZUMAIA Pintxo de Álava week in Vitoria-Gasteiz SOPELA gastronomic festivals and fairs in any 945 331 015 · www.labastida-bastida.org 943 143 396 · www.zumaia.eus/es/turismo Pintxo contest in Elgoibar 944 065 519 · www.turismoa.sopelaudala.org of the local towns. LAGUARDIA ZUMARRAGA (LA ANTIGUA) Gastronomic workshops in 945 600 845 · www.laguardia-alava.com SOPUERTA 943 722 042 · www.urolagaraia.com 946 104 028 · www.sopuerta.biz Contests, exhibitions, tasting sessions July MURGUIA CUADRILLA DE GORBEIALDEA 945 430 440 · www.gorbeialdekokuadrilla.eus TRUCIOS-TURTZIOZ Cuisine and the sale of local produce and crafts Pepper Day in Gernika 946 109 604 · www.turtzioz.org QUEJANA BASQUE CULINARY CENTER Salt Fair in Añana URDAIBAI- are regular events at the festivals that 945 399 414 · www.aiaraldea.org 902 540 866 · www.bculinary.com in Orio 946 257 609 Bream Festival SALINAS DE AÑANA EUSKO LABEL reflect the popular culture and culinary IDIAZABAL CHEESE www.turismourdaibai.com Sardine Day in Santurtzi 945 351 386 · www.ananaturismo.com 946 030 330 · www.euskolabel.hazi-eus tradition of the Basque people. COMPETITION ZIERBENA August SALVATIERRA-AGURAIN 946 404 974 · www.zierbena.net Think you know a lot about cooking? Artzai Eguna (Shepherd's Day) in Atxondo 945 302 931 · www.arabakolautada.eus Wine tourism SANTA CRUZ DE CAMPEZO Gipuzkoa Like, really a lot?... The same goes for the Euskal Herria Pintxo September ARANTZAZU BIZKAIKO TXAKOLINA QUADRILLA DE CAMPEZO-MONTAÑA ALAVESA 946 076 071 · www.bizkaikotxakolina.org Championship in Hondarribia and the Pintxo Artzai Eguna (Shepherd's Day) in Amurrio 945 405 424 · www.montanaalavesa.com 943 796 463 · www.turismodebagoiena.eus Competitions such as the San Sebastian Artzai Eguna (Shepherd's Day) in Legazpi GETARIAKO TXAKOLINA and Casserole Week in Vitoria-Gasteiz. Time VILLANUEVA DE VALDEGOVIA 943 140 383 · www.getariakotxakolina.com Gastronomika-Euskadi Basque Country Vintage Festival in Rioja Alavesa 945 353 040 · www.valdegovia.com 943 180 335 · www.ataunturismoa.net your visit to coincide with them. RUTA DEL VINO DE RIOJA ALAVESA VITORIA-GASTEIZ AZKOITIA (LOIOLA) Idiazabal cheese competition in Ordizia 943 151 878 · www.urolaturismo.eus 945 600 710 · www.rutadelvinoderiojaalavesa.com 945 161 598 · www.vitoria-gasteiz.org www.academiavascadegastronomia.com Sagar Uzta (apple harvest) in Astigarraga AZPEITIA (LOIOLA) TXAKOLI DE ALAVA Sagardo Eguna (Cider Day) in San Sebastian Bizkaia 943 151 878 · www.urolaturismo.eus 945 393 786 · www.txakolidealava.com Txakoli Day in Zarautz ARENA (MUSKIZ) BERGARA 943 769 003 · www.bergaraturismo.eus Txakoli Day in Zumaia 946 706 567 · www.visitenkarterri.com Gastronomic museums DEBA Idiazabal cheese competition in Ordizia BAKIO 943 192 452 · www.deba.eus CENTRO DE INTERPRETACIÓN DE LA ALIMENTACIÓN 946 193 395 · www.bakio.eus Y LA GASTRONOMÍA D’ELIKATUZ October ERRENTERIA 943 882 290 · www.delikatuz.com BALMASEDA 943 494 521 · www.oarsoaldeaturismoa.eus "Euskal Herria" Pintxos Championship in 946 801 356 · www.visitenkarterri.com CENTRO DE INTERPRETACIÓN DEL QUESO DE . MUSEO IBARRAUNDI Hondarribia (BEC) 943 715 453 · www.eskoriatza.eus IDIAZABAL 943 188 203 · www.idiazabalturismo.com Algusto, Saber y Sabor (know and taste) in Bilbao 944 995 821 · www.barakaldo.org GETARIA BERMEO 943 140 957 · www.getaria.eus CENTRO TEMÁTICO DEL VINO VILLA LUCIA Álava Pinto bean fair in Pobes 945 600 032 · www.villa-lucia.com San Sebastian Gastronomika 946 179 154 · www.visitbermeo.eus HONDARRIBIA BIDASOA ACTIVA. DEPT. OF TOURISM BILBAO TURISMO 943 645 458 · www.bidasoaturismo.com MUSEO DE LA MIEL DE ZUIA Seafood fair in Zierbena. 945 430 167 · 945 430 404 · www.zuia.eus 944 795 760 · www.bilbaoturismo.net HONDARRIBIA in Agurain Livestock fair BILBAO AEROPUERTO 943 643 677 · www.armaplaza.eus SAGARDOETXEA Txipiron workshops in Lekeitio 944 031 444 · www.euskaditurismo.eus IDIAZABAL 943 550 575 · www.sagardoarenlurraldea.eus 943 188 203 · www.idiazabalturismo.com Gastronomic workshops in Debagoiena BILBAO, GUGGENHEIM MUSEO DE LICOR DE AMURRIO 945 393 704 · www.aiaraldea.org Tolosa Goxua (sweets fair) in Tolosa 944 795 760 · www.bilbaoturismo.net IRÚN 943 020 732 · www.irun.org MUSEO DE LA SAL DE DURANGO "Ordizia Txapeldun" (cheese and wine fair) in Ordizia 943 714 792 · www.gatzmuseoa.com 946 033 938 · www.turismodurango.net LEGAZPI UROLA GARAIA DISTRICT (LENBUR) November 943 730 428 · www.lenbur.com MUSEO DEL PAN ENCARTACIONES ENKARTUR The Feast of San Martín in Santa Cruz de Campezo LEINTZ GATZAGA 943 730 428 · www.lenbur.com 946 802 976 · www.visitenkarterri.com 943 714 792 · www.leintzgatzaga.eus Kidney Bean Week in Tolosa TXAKOLINGUNEA (BAKIO) GAZTELUGATXE LIZARRUSTI (PARKETXEA) 946 028 513 · www.uribe.eus Miniature cuisine week in Vitoria-Gasteiz 946 179 154 606 358 831 · www.bermeo.eus 943 582 069 · www.lizarrusti.com IGARTUBEITI December GERNIKA-LUMO MUTRIKU 943 722 978 · www.igartubeitibaserria.eus 946 255 892 · www.gernika-lumo.net 943 603 378 · www.mutriku.eus/turismoa Feria de Santa Lucía in Zumarraga NET OF BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMIC MUSEUMS GETXO OIARTZUN - OARSOALDEA AND CENTERS 943 494 521 · www.oarsoaldeaturismoa.eus T-bone steak week in Tolosa 944 910 800 · www.getxo.eus www.gastromuseums.com FESTIVAL OF THE VENDIMIA (GRAPE HARVEST) The Feast of Santo Tomás in San Sebastian and OÑATI Bilbao 946 799 715 · www.gordexola.eus 943 783 453 · www.oñati.eus Christmas agricultural fair in Vitoria-Gasteiz GORLIZ ORDIZIA 943 882 290 · www.delikatuz.com Casserole week in Vitoria-Gasteiz 946 774 348 · www.gorliz.eu ORIO in Vitoria-Gasteiz 943 835 565 · www.turismo.orio.eus Ardoaraba. Wines of Álava 946 806 928 · www.karrantza.org

54 55 The 10 Bilbao San Sebastian Vitoria-Gasteiz essentials

There are many reasons why Basque Country is an essential destination. Assembly House Bizkaia San Juan de You are going to find this of Gernika Bridge Gaztelugatxe out when you get to know its people, its history, the heritage that its cities breathe, and even better when you talk about it over a great meal.

Urdaibai Cristóbal Sanctuary of Loiola Laguardia Balenciaga Museoa

tourism.euskadi.eus/en/

BASQUE GOVERNMENT Ministry of Tourism, Trade and Consumer Affairs Printed on paper with FSC certification