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Cruising in Circles Canal Barging in France the Canals of France Without a Word of the Have Played a Major Role Language

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Cruising in Circles Canal Barging in France the Canals of France Without a Word of the Have Played a Major Role Language sm Issue 103 © April 1998 American Boating Association, Inc. • 16 Bank Street • Harwich Port, MA 02646 Cruising in Circles Canal Barging in France The canals of France without a word of the have played a major role language. Americans in the commercial especially are greeted history of Europe and in with warm hospitality. the dreams of recre- A basic premise of ational boaters for this column is that the centuries. One of the journey ends where it earliest visionaries was began. While a typical Baron Paul Riquet, a tour on a French canal farmer and tax collector stretches that rule - very from the province of Cruising Canal Du Rhone few voyageurs get off Languedoc, who sold a plan to Louis XIV’s their hired barges at the same place they get minister Colbert which would ultimately on - the remanned boats themselves eventu- link the Gulf of Lions in the western Medi- ally return to the original point of embarka- terranean with the Bay of Biscay on the tion, and indeed, some enthusiasts reverse Atlantic. Built by 12,000 laborers who directions in successive seasons. started digging in 1666, the Canal du Midi Regardless of your boating experience stretches 235 kilometers from the city of on canals in France or elsewhere, a Carte de Toulouse on the Garonne River to the Plaisance, or captain’s license, must be Mediterranean port of Sete. It’s an engineer- specially issued to one member of your group ing wonder, tunnelling into hillsides, cross- for the duration of each trip, and that ing rivers and rising and falling through member must be on-board whenever the more than 100 locks across some of the most boat is in motion. It is most commonly scenic, tranquil and history-laden landscape issued by the charter company after a quick in the world. lesson in boat handling at the start of the One of Louis’ reservations about a canal cruise. between the two seas was the access it Two American couples who teamed up provided to English adventurers into his for a shared charter from the Crown Blue country’s heartland - the same xenophobic Line (tel. 04 67 90 91 70) early this past fears that thwarted Napoleonic-era visions of September reported the basics of a typical a tunnel below the English Channel a week-long cruise from Port Cassafieres to St. century later. And of course, le Roi was right Gilles, a leisurely journey of only about 100 as usual. Foreign invaders are now so ubiqui- miles that began on the east end of the Canal tous throughout the country’s spectacular du Midi and terminated near the southwest waterways that virtually every Guide Fluvialis end of the Canal du Rhone a Sete. written in French, English and German, and Their Commander 6 canal boat mea- the canals have become rivers of Babel. Some sured 42' LOA with 12' beam and 3' draft familiarity with French is helpful, of course, but today’s traveler can get along just fine Continued on page 4 1 Safety When Right is Wrong As an owner and operator, you’re re- Overtaking sponsible for the safety of everyone aboard Be ready for trouble when a powerboat passes your boat, any damage caused to other boats you. As the lead boat (which always has the and property, and to others who are injured right-of-way), maintain direction and a as a result of your activity. Just as when steady speed so that the overtaking vessel can you’re driving a car, if you don’t know and pass you safely. obey the rules, the fact that you don’t know If you’re overtaking and plan to pass to them is not a defense. And even if you do the port side of the other vessel, sound two obey the rules, but fail to prevent an accident short blasts. If you’re passing to the other you could have averted, you may still be held boat’s starboard, sound one short blast. accountable. Let’s review a few of boating’s ‘right-of-way’ rules. Crossing Every boat has a danger zone from straight in front to past the middle of the starboard side. Just as when you meet another car at a highway intersection, the one on the right has the right of way. You must yield to boats in your danger zone. If you’re the vessel giving way, sound a short (1-second) blast on your approved sound-producing device. Likewise, if you’re the vessel holding course and speed, also Boats on opposite tacks will collide unless one gives way. Boat A, with wind coming from the starboard sound one short blast. side, has the right of way. Yielding Meeting Powerboats must yield to sailboats and As in a car, stay to your right, passing to boats being towed or paddled, except in a portside to portside, and as far apart as narrow channel. Stay well clear of all big practical in order to minimize the effect of vessels. each other’s wake. It’s perfectly legal to pass A boat on a port tack must give way to on the left - if both boaters know the plan. one on a starboard tack. In cases where both Give notice by steering to the right or boats are on the same tack, the one nearest to the wind must yield to the one that is Continued on page 4 farthest from the wind. Who’s In Charge Here? Match the America’s Cup boats with their skippers 1. Kookaburra III a. Charlie Barr 2. Gretel b. David Barnes 3. Intrepid c. Dennis Conner 4. Reliance d. Ted Turner 5. Courageous e. Bus Mosbacher 6. Enterprise f. Ted Hood 7. New Zealand g. Jock Sturrock 8. Shamrock h. Briggs Cunningham 9. Columbia i. Gus Olsen 10.Stars and Stripes j. Harold Vanderbilt 11. Rainbow k. Thomas Lipton 12. Nefertiti m. Iain Murray Answers: 12f 11i, 10c. 9h, 8k, 7b, 6j, 5d, 4a, 3e, 2g, 1m, 2 On The Horizon Boat Shows April 1-5 (516-691-7050) Tacoma Dome Boat Show, WA April 23-26 (206-756-2121) Suncoast Boat Show, FL April 2-5 (954-764-7642) Charleston International In-Water Boat Show, April 23-27 SC Pacific Sail Expo, CA (216-621-3618) (800-817-SAIL) April 3-5 April 30-May 3 Santa Rosa Boat, RV & Fishing Show, CA Annapolis Spring Boat Show, MD (510-934-1580) (410-268-8828) April 10-12 April 30 - May 3 Lake of the Ozarks Boat Show, MO Orange County Boat Show, CA (573-348-2296) (714-633-7581) April 16-19 May 15-17 Fort Lauderdale Spring Boat Show, FL Newport Used Boat Show, RI (954-764-7642) (401-846-1115) April 16-19 May 30 - June 7 South Jersey In-Water Boat Show, NJ SCMA Spring Boat Show, CA (609-884-2400) (714-633-7581) April 17-19 June 11-18 Fairbanks Outdoors Show, AK Marina Del Ray In-Water Boat Show, CA (907-451-7800) (714-548-9305) April 17-19 June 12-16 Hampton Roads Boat Show, VA South Florida Boat Show, FL (804-977-3716) (954-946-6164) April 23-26 June 20-21 Bayshore In-Water Boat Show, NY Sea and Land Boat Show, CT (860-388-3266) Calling Card . Still the BEST!! Look and compare . Charges based on six 5-minute calls. Charges are based on ABA Calling Card $4.47 using standard calling ABA Calling Card cards and making daytime interstate calls. These rates include MCI Calling Card $13.68 carrier per-call surcharges but do not include charges if calls are made from a pay AT&T Calling Card $14.10 phone. Sprint Calling Card $14.76 MCI, AT&T, and Sprint $0.00 $2.00 $4.00 $6.00 $8.00 $10.00 $12.00 $14.00 $16.00 are registered trademarks 3 Canal Barging in France - Continued from page 1 and was driven by a on such French Medi- single-screw diesel terranean specialties as capable of about six pates, smoked fish, knots. It featured three mussels, oysters, sea staterooms with bureaus escargots (larger than and hanging lockers, the land variety) or two heads, a salon and roast duck in the an austere but service- surprisingly affordable able galley. The cockpit restaurants, seldom over had a crank-open $20 for a 5-course convertible roof. dinner with each course nearly a meal in There were only three locks in the stretch itself, including wine. of water they chose for their charter, and On balance, the overall trip was a their transits were simple, swift and conve- bargain as well. The biggest item was the nient. They also had to cope with a variety of charter. They also elected to rent four bikes bridges, including lift and pivot designs; one from the boat broker, for short trips through operated on a less flexible schedule but all the local byways or to the nearby Mediterra- were easily navigated. nean beaches. All inclusive, with fuel, Because canal boats have no skeg or keel, insurance, bikes, and other extras, barge there is a tendency for neophytes to oversteer. charter costs were $2,100, For a group of six, But the knack is easily acquired, and at low which the boat can handle at its maximum, speeds and with plenty of space for maneu- this reduces to $350 per passenger. vering, they are forgiving. Within the canals, Because on-board navigation aids were a turn can be made on the boat’s own length non-existent, our correspondents suggested a simply by using forward and reverse gear reliable compass and perhaps a small pair of with the rudder hard around - or with the bearing binoculars for crossing open water.
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