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Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
Anthropological Records 8:3
ANTHROPOLOGICAL RECORDS 8:3 CULTURE ELEMENT DISTRIBUTIONS: XXIII NORTHERN AND GOSIUTE SHOSHONI BY JULIAN H. STEWARD UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS BERKELEY AND LOS ANGELES 1943 CULTURE ELEMENT DISTRIBUTIONS: XXIII NORTHERN AND GOSIUTE SHOSHONI BY JULIAN H. STEWARD ANTHROPOLOGICAL RECORDS Vol. 8, No. 3 ANTHROPOLOGICAL RECORDS EDITORS: A. L. KROEBER, E. W GIFFORD, R. H. LowIE, R. L. OLSON Volume 8, No. 3, pp. 263-392 Submitted by Editors June 12, 194I Issued July 30, I943 Price, $1.25 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS LONDON, ENGLAND The University of California publications dealing with anthro- pological subjects are now issued in two series. The series in American Archaeology and Ethnology, which was established in 1903, continues unchanged in format, but is restricted to papers in which the interpretative element outweighs the factual or which otherwise are of general interest. The new series, known as Anthropological Records, is issued in photolithography in a larger size. It consists ofmonographs which are documentary, of record nature, or devoted to the presentation primarily of new data. MANUFACTURED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA CONTENTS Page Introduction ...... .. .. .. .. .. 263 Tribes and informants ..... 263 Tribal abbreviations ..... 265 Ethnographic discussion ..... 266 Subsistence . 266 Hunting ...... .. .. .. .. .. 266 Plant foods .... 271 Food preparation ..... ..... 271 Dwellings ............... 272 Sweat houses . 273 Navigation ..... ............. .. .. .. 273 Weapons ..... -
Sauratown Mountain
Sauratown Mountain Cover photos: Daniel Chambo on Shock the Monkey and Anna Chapman on Barbs World/Leisure Time. Photo credits, Jeff Dunbar on Shock the Monkey and Emil Briggs on Barbs World. The Carolina Climbers Coalition has reached an agreement with the owners of Sauratown, previously one of the most popular winter destinations in the NC Piedmont. Home to a number of classic trad lines and many excellent sport routes, the area has been closed for years due to a variety of factors. If you've never climbed at Sauratown it's the best winter cragging in the Piedmont - steep and pumpy on incredible rock. If you used to climb there and haven't for the 5+ years it's been closed, welcome back it's just like your forearms remember it! IMPORTANT! Access will ONLY be allowed from December 1 to March 31st and is 7 days a week. Please do not jeopardize all of the hard work that has gone into this by trying to go to Sauratown at any other time. The cliff remains closed except for those times. Don't be the person who gets the gate slammed in our face. Seriously, don't. Many thanks to Camp Hanes, who has partnered with us on this and to the climbers who humped stainless steel up the trail and replaced 30+ bolts and anchors, flagged trail and cleaned up the base of the cliff. We wouldn't be having as much fun as we're going to have without your help. There is a fee associated with this agreement that the CCC is paying to get everyone access to the property. -
Basic Mountaineering Course Student Handbook Table of Contents
Basic Mountaineering Course Student Handbook Table Of Contents Introduction ........................................................ 3 Fundamentals Field Trip: ................................ 39 Lecture Objectives ............................................. 4 Belay Practice .................................................. 40 Field Trip Objectives ......................................... 4 Rock I: Anchors, Belays And Rappels Lecture 41 Missed Activities ................................................. 5 Ropes, Anchors, and ERNEST .......................... 42 Trail Work / Stewardship Requirement ............. 5 Rock I Quiz ......................................................... 43 Climbing Graduation Requirements .................. 5 Rock I: Anchors, Belays, Rappels, and Basic Student Responsibilities ..................................... 6 Rock Climbing Field Trip ........................... 45 A Standard of Judgment – The Climbing Rock II: Climbing Technique Lecture: ........... 46 Code .............................................................. 6 Climber Roles and Responsibilities .................. 47 Basic Experience Climbs .................................... 7 Rock II: Climbing Technique Field Trip ....... 48 Reporting An Overdue Climber ......................... 8 Rock II Quiz ........................................................ 49 Climb Itinerary To Be Left With A Snow I: Snow Travel & Ice Axe Use Lecture .. Responsible Person .............................................. 9 51 Physical Conditioning ..................................... -
Étoile Filante IV 5.11C, 300M, South Face of Asgard Peak, Valhallas
Étoile Filante IV 5.11c, 300m, South face of Asgard peak, Valhallas Access Asgard Peak is located in Valhalla Provincial Park in Southeastern British Columbia. It is roughly 15km West of Slocan Lake near the headwaters of Mulvey Creek. To access the South Face of Asgard, climbers must start by following the regular access trail to the well known Gimli Peak from the Bannock Creek forest service road. From the regular campsite at the base of the South Ridge of Gimli, follow a trail along the west face of Gimli to a col between Gimli and Nisleheim peak (750m elevation gain over 5km). The South Face of Asgard can be seen directly across Mulvey basin from the col. The best camping location for this route is about 300 vertical meters below the north side of Gimli col near one of the upper Mulvey lakes. To get into Mulvey Basin from the col, start by locating an exposed but very handy left trending diagonal ledge on the steep north side of the col which begins near the middle of the broad col (cairn). Carefully scramble down the initial moves then traverse more easily West to the top of a steep snow/ice slope. Descend this slope; depending on the conditions crampons and ice axe can be very useful. Continue descending into Mulvey basin on snow (early season) or rock slabs (late season). Many beautiful alpine meadow for camping with good water options exist near the upper Mulvey Lakes (300m elevation loss over 1km). To access the South Face from Mulvey Lakes, ascend moderately steep slopes up and left of some rock slabs in a Westerly direction and eventually gentle slopes in a Northwesterly direction (300m elevation gain over 1.5 km). -
The American Alpine Club Guidebook to Membership Alpinist Magazine
THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP ALPINIST MAGAZINE ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art, paying attention to every detail— from our extended photo captions to our carefully Wselected images and well-crafted stories. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty. By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US. Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95 Alpinist.com/AAC ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB Stay Connected! @AlpinistMag @Alpinist @AlpinistMag ALP_2019_AAC Ad FIN.indd 1 6/26/19 4:14 PM WELCOME, ALL 5 You Belong Here ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 8 Brooklyn Bell on Art for the In-betweens MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS 10 Inspiration, Delivered Directly NAVAJO RISING 23 An Indigenous Emergence Story WHEN WOMEN LEAD 27 Single Pitch Instructors for the 21st Century GLACIAL VIEWS 29 A Climate Scientist Reflects & Other Research Stories CLIMBERS FOR CLIMATE 32 Taking a Stand on Climate Change, Together 1CLIMB, INFINITE POTENTIAL 34 Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building Them ON PUSHING 37 24 Hours Into the Black, the AAC Grief Fund AN ODE TO MOBILITY 40 The Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi YOSEMITE'S CAMP 4 43 The Center of the Climbing Universe REWIND THE CLIMB 47 The Tragedy of the 1932 American K2 Expedition BETA 48 Everything a Club Member Needs to Know PARTING SHOT 72 Jeremiah Watt on Travel & Life a Greg Kerzhner climbing Mr. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
25 An even score Greg Child’s 1983 trip to the Karakoram left him with a chaotic collage of experiences—from the exhilaration of a first ascent of Lobsang Spire to the feeling of hopelessness and depression from losing a friend and climbing partner. It also left his mind filled with strong memories—of people, of events and of mountains. Of the images of mountains that remained sharply focused in Child’s mind, the most enduring perhaps was not that of K2 or its satellite 8000 m peaks. It was of Gasherbrum IV, a strikingly symmetrical trapezoid of rock and ice that presided over Concordia at the head of the Baltoro Glacier (see image 25.1). Though far less familiar than Ama Dablam, Machhapuchhare or the Matterhorn, it is undeniably one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. Child said: After Broad Peak I’d promised myself I would never return to the Himalayas. It was a personal, emphatic, and categoric promise. It was also a promise I could not keep. Again and again the symmetrical silhouette of a truncated, pyramidal mountain kept appearing in my thoughts: Gasherbrum IV. My recollection of it from the summit ridge of Broad Peak, and Pete’s suggestion to some day climb its Northwest Ridge, remained etched in my memory.1 Gasherbrum IV offered a considerable climbing challenge in addition to its beauty. Remarkably, the peak had been climbed only once—in 1958, by its North-East Ridge by Italians Carlo Mauri and Walter Bonatti. There are at least two reasons for its amazing lack of attention. -
Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation by Rocky Mountain Rescue Group
Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation by Rocky Mountain Rescue Group March 6, 2011 On the morning of June 22, 2010, Joseph Miller fell while leading the second pitch of the Yellow Spur1 route on the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park2. During the fall the climber’s rope failed, resulting in a fatal ground fall. Due to the unusual occurrence of a climbing rope failure, the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group3 (RMRG) conducted an accident investigation focused on the cause of the failure. This report contains the activities, findings and conclusions of that investigation. The intent of this report is to objectively determine what most likely happened during the accident. RMRG has no special relationship with any of the individuals or equipment manufacturers mentioned herein nor did RMRG receive any compensation for conducting this investigation. We encourage others to replicate our testing of this or similar scenarios. Figure 1a shows a photo of the Yellow Spur route with the area of the accident outlined in yellow. The second pitch of the route starts from a tree and traverses to climber’s left before heading up a dihedral (Figure 1b). The route was closed temporarily following the accident in order to gather on-site information in support of the initial investigation conducted by the Boulder County Sheriff’s Office (BCSO). Prior to re-opening the route, a detailed inspection of the second pitch of the route was performed by RMRG, and photographs were taken of the climbing protection placed by Miller during the climb. Interviews Interviews with a number of nearby climbers who witnessed the events leading to the fall and/or the fall itself were conducted by RMRG. -
Mountaineering: the Heroic Expression of Our Age
Mountaineering: The Heroic Expression of Our Age Mikel Vause Abstract—The thesis of this paper focuses on Walter Bonatti’s For most mountaineers, the pure physical enjoyment and philosophy on the role of mountaineering as a means of experiencing spiritual uplift that accompanies a body tired from adven- wilderness in a modern techno/industrial society. Problems of going ture in wild nature is reason enough to climb mountains. into wilderness settings with too much baggage are discussed. One Materialism is, for most, at the bottom of the list. As John example is that of the climbing disasters on Mount Everest in 1996. Henry Newman argues, “knowledge [has] its end in itself,” Several years before the actual accidents, Sir Edmund Hillary, a so, also, climbing mountains has “its end in itself.” One partner in the first ascent with Tenzing Norgay, in 1953, expressed ventures out for the riches of building both a strong body and concern that people using the mountain as a business were “engen- mind, and in some cases, to become rich in the spiritual dering disrespect for the mountain.” Bonatti’s point is that moun- sense. This argument could be fairly made until recently, but tains are places to escape the commercialism of a collective, indus- in the past decade or so there has developed an ever growing trial society. This thesis is supported with arguments by notable sense of commercialism in the world of mountaineering. thinkers and wilderness philosophers such as William Wordsworth, The guiding business is nothing new to mountaineering. Edgar Allan Poe, John Muir, Doug Scott, Woodrow Wilson Sayre, In fact, climbing may never have evolved as it has were it not Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Chris Bonington, and Phil Bartlett. -
Page 1 5 Mm Offset from Edge 3 Mm Hole a Camalot AB Os Cabos
5 mm offset from edge 3 mm hole Camalot A A B • Os cabos podem een val, vanaf hoogte gevallen materiaal, wrijving, slijtage, roest, corrosie en langdurige ser substituídos enviando o seu blootstelling aan zonlicht, zout water/zoute lucht, extreme omstandigheden of extreme Camalot para o centro de garantia temperaturen. da Black Diamond. Veja o site da • Schrijf uw materiaal af indien u twijfelt over de betrouwbaarheid ervan of na een zware Black Diamond para detalhes (www. val. blackdiamondequipment.com). Camalot Ultralight • Vernietig afgeschreven materiaal zodat het niet meer gebruikt kan worden. B (Veja as ilustrações) • De levensduur van het materiaal geldt vanaf de productiedatum, niet vanaf de verkoopdatum. Raadpleeg het gedeelte Markeringen van deze gebruiksaanwijzing om ARMAZENAMENTO de productiedatum van deze uitrusting te achterhalen. (Veja as ilustrações) • Het weefsel kan worden vervangen door uw Camalot op te sturen naar het Black CAMALOTS EM SEGUNDA Diamond Warranty Center. Ga naar de website van Black Diamond voor meer details MÃO (www.blackdiamondequipment.com). Desencorajamos fortemente o uso em (Zie bijbehorende afbeeldingen) segunda mão. Para confiar no equipamento é necessário saber o seu histórico de uso. OPSLAG ESCOLHER OUTROS COMPONENTES (Zie bijbehorende afbeeldingen) 2 kN Escolha cordas que atendam à EN 892 e mosquetões que atendam à EN 12275, e escolha outros equipamentos de montanhismo com certificação CE que sejam compatíveis com TWEEDEHANDS CAMALOTS este produto. Het gebruik van tweedehands materiaal wordt sterk afgeraden. Om op uw materiaal te Os Camalots Ultraligeiros da Black Diamond estão de acordo com os requisitos da EN kunnen vertrouwen, moet u weten wat ermee gebeurd is. -
2016 Tacoma Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Manual
TACOMA MOUNTAINEERS Intermediate Climbing Manual 2016 Table of Contents Welcome to the Tacoma Mountaineers _______________________________________________________________________ 3 Course Information _______________________________________________________________________________________________ 5 Course Description _________________________________________________________________________________________________ 5 2016 Intermediate Course Roster _______________________________________________________________________________ 7 Course Policies and Requirements _____________________________________________________________________________ 11 General Notes __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Late for Lecture / Absenteeism Policy _______________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Conservation Requirement ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Winter Overnight Requirement ______________________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Basic Climbing Field Trip Teaching Requirement __________________________________________________________________________ 12 Mentor Program ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ 13 Rope Leader, Climb Leader, & Graduation Policies __________________________________________________________ 15 Rope Lead Process ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ -
Metolius Super Cam Camming Device Review
Welcome Guest! Join SuperTopo Sign In View Cart Home Climbing Areas Climbing Routes Guidebooks Free Topos Photos Gear Forum Home > Rev iews > Climbing > Rock Protection > Small Camming Dev ices > Metolius Super Cam Monday , Nov ember 8, 2010 First Look Gear Review Search Gear Reviews Go Metolius Super Cam Review Camming Device Overall average rating 3.5 of 5 based on 2 votes and 1 user review. Most recent review: October 27, 2010 Street Price: $50 $80 Pros: Big range, stable, rangefinder Cons: Limited sizes, no big cams Best Uses: Parallel sized cracks like you find in sandstone Manufacturer: Metolius Climbing Review by: Chris McNamara on October 2, 2010 Overview The Metolius Super Cam is the biggest climbing cam offering from Metolius Metolius Supercam Climbing. It comes in three sizes that span from 1.65" to 4.67". They use an innovative Credit: metoliusclimbing.com asymetical cam lobe design unlike any other we have seen before. It gives each cam a range that rivals it's main competitor the Black Diamond Camalot C4. Both are about Where to Buy? the same cost but the Camalots are a little lighter. The three sizes of the Supercam (grey, maroon, dark blue) are roughly equivalent to Camalots #24. Resellers Price Reviews REI $49.94 Click to customize your PDFs pdfcrowd.com REI $49.94 (4.0) Metolius uses a unique "Range Finder" color coded system to help you know if the MooseJaw $69.50 cam is bomber or not. If the green dots are touching the rock, the cam is bomber. If MountainGear $69.50 the yellow or red dots are touching, it's not.