| Toledo and the Emperor Charles V. Highlights Toledo y el Emperador Carlos V SUS ESPACIOS

Foto portada: Fachada artística de Alonso de Covarrubias. Alcázar de Toledo (Museo del Ejército). / Artistic façade by Alonso de Covarrubias. Alcazar (Army Museum). Toledo. Escudo imperial de Carlos V. . Toledo. / Charles V Imperial coat-of-arms. Toledo.

Toledo y el Emperador Carlos V Toledo and the Emperor Charles V

Toledo se convirtió en ciudad fundamental en la monarquía de los Austrias. Carlos, hijo y marido de reinas, nieto de emperador, padre de rey … Emperador de Romanos y Rey de las Españas, residió en ella al menos en quince ocasiones. Toledo, máximo exponente de la mornarquía española desde los visigodos, con Carlos I de España y V de Alemania, hijo de la reina toledana: Juana I de Castilla (conocida como la Loca), nieto de los Reyes Católicos, y padre de Felipe II, se convierte gracias a su fi gura en la capital del Imperio. El 27 de abril de 1525, el Emperador, entra por primera vez en Toledo. El 1 de mayo de 1539 muere la reina Isabel de Portugal, su esposa, lo que signifi có un corto retiro al monasterio toledano de monjes jerónimos de Santa María la Sisla. Nunca más volvería a la Ciudad Imperial.

Toledo became a major city during the Habsburgs’ rule. Charles, son and husband of queens, grandson of an emperor, father of a king… Holy Roman Emperor and King of “the ” resided in this city at least on fi fteen occasions. Toledo, a quintessential example of the Spanish monarchy since the Visigoths’ rule, became the capital of the Empire thanks to Charles V, also known as Charles I of . He was the son of Joanna of Castile (known as Joanna the Mad), the grandson of the Catholic Monarchs and the father of the future king Philip II. On 27 April, 1525, the Emperor fi rst arrived at Toledo. Later on 1 May 1539 the Queen and Charles’s wife, , died. The queen’s death caused the Emperor such distress that he retreated for a short period to Toledo’s Hieronymite Monastery of Santa María la Sisla. After that, he would never return to the Imperial City. 1●ALCÁZAR DE TOLEDO (Hoy, Museo del Ejército)/ THE ALCAZAR (current ARMY MUSEUM)

Las obras de la construcción actual comenzaron en 1538, Destaca el Patio Imperial, por la composición en doble por la fachada norte, en la que está la puerta principal. arquería apoyada en columnas corintias, labrado en Esta fachada artística es concebida y ejecutada su totalidad en piedra granítica, y exponiendo como por el arquitecto toledano Alonso de Covarrubias, única ornamentación el águila imperial con las alas dividida en tres plantas, las dos primeras decoradas desplegadas que aparece en las enjutas del nivel por ventanas y la tercera concebida como una galería, inferior. La estructura de este elegante y equilibrado con unas ventanasbalcones separadas por un fuerte patio (1537) se debe al arquitecto del edificio:Alonso almohadillado. Ante la fachada se abre una amplia de Covarrubias, si bien la ejecución material fue por terraza que da perspectiva al edificio. Destaca la gran Villalpando, Hernán González de Lara y Gaspar portada que talló el maestro Enrique Egas en 1548-51, de la Vega entre 1550 y 1556. Llama la atención la donde en su parte superior se puede leer: CARº.V.RO. grandiosa escalera principal que se abre en el centro IMP.HISP.REX.MDLI. (Carlos V Emperador de de la galería sur a través de tres arcos, según decidió Romanos, Rey de las Españas, 1551), leyenda alusiva personalmente el hijo del Emperador, Felipe II ya Rey, al nuevo carácter del edificio dado por el Emperador concluyéndose la obra en 1589, con una caja de más Carlos. En el centro del frontón se presenta el escudo de 30 metros de largo por 15 de ancho. Aun cuando imperial tallado y escoltado por dos reyes de armas. Felipe II decide trasladar la corte a Madrid,el Alcázar Esta portada da acceso a un vestíbulo, diseñado continuó siendo residencia regia, ya que al monarca y a como elemento intermedio entre el patio y la fachada. su esposa Isabel de Valois les agradaba alojarse en él. 1●ALCÁZAR DE TOLEDO (Hoy, Museo del Ejército)/ THE ALCAZAR (current ARMY MUSEUM)

The northern façade of current building started to be built back as a halfway point between the courtyard and the façade. The in 1538. This is also the façade where the main gate is located. This Imperial Courtyard stands out for its composition featuring a masterfully built façade was planned and developed by Toledo’s two-storey arcade that surrounds the courtyard. The arcade architect Alonso de Covarrubias. It is divided into three different is supported by Corinthian columns and is sculpted in granite. sections, being the two lower ones decorated with windows The only decoration displayed is the imperial eagle with its and the third and uppermost being decorated with another set wings outstretched that is featured on the spandrels of the of windowed balconies separated by a marked rustication. This lower arcade. We owe the composition of this elegant and façade is preceded by a wide terrace that gives perspective to balanced courtyard (1537) to the building’s architect, Alonso de the building. It is worth mentioning the entrance of this façade, Covarrubias, yet its construction was carried out by Villalpando, sculpted by the master builder Enrique Egas between 1548 and Hernán González de Lara and Gaspar de la Vega between 1550 1551, on whose upper part we can read the following inscription: and 1556. The magnificentmain staircase that starts in the middle CARº. V.RO.IMP.HISP.REX.MDLI., which stands for Carlos V of the southern arcaded gallery will also catch the visitor’s eye. It Emperador de Romanos, Rey de las Españas, 1551, translated opens between the arches of this gallery as it was decided by the as Charles V Roman Emperor, King of the Spains, 1551. This Emperor’s son, Philip II, during his reign. The staircase was finally inscription refers to the new character given to the building by concluded in 1589, and it measures 15 m in width and 30 m in the Emperor Charles. The centre of the pediment features a length. Even after Philip II decided to move the court to Madrid, sculpted imperial coat of arms that is flanked by two kings of the Alcazar would still remain a royal residence, since he and the arms. By crossing the door, we enter a hall that was designed queen, Elizabeth of Valois, were keen on staying there. 2● / PALACE of FUENSALIDA Palacio gótico mudéjar toledano de la primera The palace of Fuensalida is a Gothic-Mudejar palace from mitad del siglo XV cuya estructura se compone the first half of the 15th century whose composition is de un gran patio porticado con 16 pilares comprised of an arcaded courtyard featuring 16 octagonal octogonales decorados con escudos de las familias pillars decorated with the coat of arms of two important toledanas: Ayala y Castañeda. Las estancias están families of Toledo: the Ayala and Castañeda families. profusamente decoradas con yeserías mudéjares y The rooms feature rich Mudejar plaster decorations and cubiertas por artesonados ricamente policromados. stunning polychrome coffered ceilings. This palace was the Sede imperial para los emperadores Carlos e Isabel official seat of the emperor and the empress, Charles and durante sus estancias en Toledo. La Emperatriz Elizabeth, during their stays in Toledo. The Empress and y Reina de España, Isabel de Portugal, madre de Queen of Spain, Elizabeth of Portugal, Philip’s II mother, Felipe II, muere en este palacio el 1 de mayo de 1539. would die in this palace on 1 May 1539. The Emperor then Parte de aquí la comitiva fúnebre encomendada por commanded his son Philip to lead a funeral procession el propio Emperador a su hijo Felipe con destino a that would depart from the palace until Granada, where la Capilla Real, en Granada. the Queen would be buried in the Royal Chapel. Recorrido / Itinerary: Puerta de Bisagra - - Alcázar - Museo de Santa Cruz - Palacio de Fuensalida. 3●HOSPITAL DE SANTA CRUZ (Hoy, Museo) / SANTA CRUZ HOSPITAL (Current Santa Cruz Museum) Mandado construir por Pedro González de This former hospital, named after the Holy Cross, is Mendoza, el Gran Cardenal, conocido como el a quintessential example of the Spanish Renaissance “Tercer Rey”, en 1504, es el máximo exponente de architecture. It was commissioned in 1504 by Pedro la arquitectura renacentista española. Destinado González de Mendoza, the Great Cardinal, also known a la crianza de niños expósitos y obras de caridad, as the “third King”. The hospital was initially intended su diseño, en planta, representa una perfecta cruz to be an orphanage for foundlings, as well as a charity griega. El exceso decorativo de su portada del institution. Its floor plan presents a perfect Greek primer Renacimiento contrasta con la serena y cross. The excessive decoration of its front door, made contundente fachada. Destaca especialmente el during the early Renaissance, contrasts with the sober grupo escultórico de San Joaquín y Santa Ana, junto and robust façade. It is worth mentioning the group of al Gran Cardenal y Santa Elena, así como la Cruz de sculptures comprised of Saint Joachim and Saint Anne, Jerusalén que recorre toda la cornisa. En el interior, standing next to the Great Cardinal and Saint Helena, sus magníficos artesonados en madera de Cuenca as well as the Holy Cross that covers the whole cornice. fueron los primeros en ser transportados hasta On the inside, a magnificent set of coffered ceilings can Toledo por el curso del río Tajo. El elegante patio be appreciated. This woodwork made of pine trees from y escalera, renacentistas, son obra del arquitecto Cuenca’s mountains was the first to be transported on toledano Alonso de Covarrubias. the Tagus river down to Toledo. The elegant courtyard Recorrido / Itinerary: Puerta de Bisagra - Hospital de Tavera and staircase, both in Renaissance style, were designed - Alcázar - Museo de Santa Cruz - Palacio de Fuensalida. by Toledo’s architect Alonso de Covarrubias. 4●PUERTA DE BISAGRA / Bisagra Gate A mediados del siglo XVI, Carlos I solucionaba un In the mid-16th century, Charles I successfully supressed an problema en los territorios hispánicos heredados uprising that took place in the territories he had inherited de sus abuelos, los Reyes Católicos: la revuelta de from his grandparents, the Catholic Monarchs. That uprising los Comuneros de Castilla. Para celebrarlo, Carlos I was known as the Revolt of the Comuneros of Castile. In planificó una estancia en Toledo, la ciudad en la que su order to celebrate his victory, Charles I planned to spend madre, la Reina Juana I de Castilla, nació y que estaba a stay in Toledo, which was the birthplace of his mother, the destinada, a ser capital de España y a conservar los Queen Joanne I of Castile. Likewise, Toledo was destined restos mortales de la dinastía de su abuela Isabel I de to be the capital city of Spain as well as the place where Castilla, cuando ordena erigir el toledano Monasterio de the mortal remains of his grandmother, Isabella I of Castile, San Juan de los Reyes. would be kept. It was for this purpose that the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes was ordered to be built. Para conmemorar la victoria del Rey Carlos I sobre los Comuneros de Castilla y ser recibido como un César, Thus, in order to commemorate the King’s victory over the un Emperador, se erige en 1550 la monumental Puerta Comuneros of Castile and welcome him as a Caesar, the de Bisagra de Toledo, haciéndose cargo de las obras el magnificent Bisagra Gate was erected in 1550. The architect arquitecto Alonso Covarrubias, que diseñó una portada in charge of the construction was Alonso Covarrubias, who monumental a modo de arco de triunfo, con el símbolo designed the gate as a triumphal arch topped by the coat y actual escudo de Toledo: el gran águila bicéfala con of arms of the city of Toledo. This coat of arms displays a el collar del Toisón y vellocino de oro, en honor al Rey two-headed eagle wearing the collar of the Order of the Emperador. El interior de la Puerta se compone de un Golden Fleece in honour of the Emperor. The inner gate austero patio de armas donde destaca la estatua erigida enclosure is comprised of a sober parade ground where it a la figura del Emperador Carlos. is worth noting the statue erected to honour the Emperor Recorrido / Itinerary: Puerta de Bisagra - Hospital de Tavera Charles I. - Alcázar - Museo de Santa Cruz - Palacio de Fuensalida. 5●HOSPITAL de TAVERA o “de Afuera” / TAVERA HOSPITAL or “The One Out of the Walls” “...es de las más acertadas y excelentes fábricas “… it is one of the most accurate and excellent que ay en Europa, y mas conforme a las reglas y factories in Europe, more particularly if the rules and observaciones de la verdadera Architectura;[...] lo observations of the true architecture are taken into dizen los extranjeros que la vienen a ver, como a una account; […] that’s what the visiting foreigners claim, de las maravillas de el Mundo”. Nicolás de Vergara “el who also deem it as one of the wonders of the world”. Mozo” Arquitecto. (1603). Nicolás de Vergara “el Mozo” Architect. (1603).

El Hospital de San Juan Bautista, “primer edificio Saint John the Baptist Hospital, the “first fully classical building in Castile”, is also known as Tavera Hospital totalmente clásico de Castilla”, también conocido or “the one out of the walls”, as it is evidently located como Hospital Tavera o de Afuera, por estar situado outside the city walls, in front of the Bisagra Gate. It extramuros de la ciudad, frente a la puerta de Bisagra, was built in the 16th century for two different purposes, nace en el siglo XVI con una doble función: hospital to house “those afflicted with distinct diseases” and to para “los tocados de diferentes enfermedades” y be its founder’s mausoleum, that being the Cardinal panteón de su fundador, el Cardenal Juan Pardo Juan Pardo Tavera. Its construction started in 1540 Tavera. Su construcción en 1540,abre el programa and was the starting point of the architectural and de renovación arquitectónica y urbanística que el urban modernisation project that the Humanists who círculo de humanistas que rodearon al Emperador counselled the Emperor Charles I designed in order Carlos V proyectó para adecuar la imagen de Toledo a to adapt Toledo’s image as the capital of the Empire. su papel de Capital Imperial. Regarding its architectural elements, it is worth mentioning Destacan su fachada realizada en tres pisos de its façade divided into three different sections built with sillería de piedra berroqueña, los patios gemelos, granite ashlars, the twin courtyards and the famous la famosa botica donde entre albarelos, morteros, apothecary. The ceramics from Talavera de la Reina and pesas, espatuleros, orzas, …, destaca el botamen de Puente del Arzobispo (16th and 17th centuries) stand out cerámicas toledanas de Talavera de la Reina y Puente from all the other apothecary tools like mortars, albarellos del Arzobispo(s. XVI y XVII). (apothecary jars), weights, glazed earthenware jars, etc. Personajes de la Corte Imperial / Personalities of the Imperial Court

Alonso de Covarrubias (1488-1570) Arquitecto español, formado en el primer Renacimiento Covarrubias was a Spanish architect who received training aprendido de sus parientes, los Egas, fue el introductor en during the early Renaissance from his relatives the Egas family. Toledo de la arquitectura del Renacimiento. Maestro Mayor He introduced the Renaissance architecture in Toledo. Similarly, de la Catedral Primada, ha dejado en la ciudad un legado he was also named master builder of the Primate Cathedral of arquitectónico y estético de primer nivel: portada del Imperial Saint Mary of Toledo. He is responsible of having left an excellent Monasterio de San Clemente, fachada norte del palacio real architectural and artistic heritage in the city, among which we can (Alcázar), o los patios pareados del Hospital de San Juan name the front door of the Imperial Monastery of San Clemente, Bautista, hoy Hospital de Tavera. the north façade of the royal palace (Alcazar), the twin courtyards of Saint John the Baptist Hospital, known today as Tavera Hospital. Cardenal Cisneros (1436-1517) Cardinal Cisneros was a Franciscan monk famous for having an Franciscano, confesor de la reina Isabel I de Castilla, de vida austere and isolated life as well as for being Isabella’s I of Castile austera y de retiro, fue nombrado arzobispo de Toledo, primado confessor. He was named archbishop of Toledo, the primate de España, en 1495. Regente de Castilla en dos ocasiones, of Spain, in 1495. He acted as regent on two occasions and died murió el 8 de noviembre a punto de encontrarse con el futuro 8th November, shortly before meeting the future Emperor. Emperador. Supo conjugar la tradición mudéjar de la Edad He managed to merge the Mudejar tradition originating from Media toledana con las primeras luces del Renacimiento que the Middle Ages in Toledo with the fi rst manifestations of the empezaba a introducirse en Castilla. Entre su legado en Toledo Renaissance that began to appear in Castile. Among the heritage deja la creación de la Biblia Políglota y la fundación cisneriana he left to the city we can name the Polyglot Bible, the foundation del Convento femenino de San Juan de la Penitencia, donde of the female convent of San Juan de la Penintencia, where the participaron los mejores alarifes de la ciudad. Se le debe la best architects in the city participated. Cardinal Cisneros was recuperación del rito mozárabe-Capilla del Corpus Christi also the person who restored the Mozarabic rite in the Corpus en la S.I. Catedral Primada-, donde hoy aún podemos seguir la Christi chapel of the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo misa en este rito y contemplar el famoso fresco de una de las where it is still practised today. One of the most interesting frescos grandes narraciones históricas: “La Batalla de Orán”. of the city can also be appreciated in this chapel; it is the one representing the Battle of Oran. Garcilaso de la Vega (1491-1536) Poet and soldier born in Toledo. He was in the entourage of Poeta y soldado nacido en Toledo. Fradrique Álvarez de Toledo y Enríquez, second Duke of Alba Formaba parte del séquito del Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo y de Tormes when Charles I went ashore in Santander in 1522. Enríquez, II duque de Alba de Tormes cuando Carlos I desem- He fought in the Revolt of the Comuneros of Castile and barcó en Santander en 1522. participated in the siege of his birthplace, Toledo, in 1522. Luchó en la Guerra de las Comunidades de Castilla y participó en In his Eclogue II; the Tagus is the river where the nymphs el cerco a su ciudad natal: Toledo (1522). En su Égloga III; el Tajo es come from: “Four nymphs I propose as subject of my song, el río de donde salen las ninfas que la protagonizan: “De cuatro who emerged together from beloved Tagus…” Garcilaso’s ninfas que del Tajo amado salieron juntas, a cantar me ofrezco…”. eclogues tell the story of two shepherds who mourn their Las églogas de Garcilaso cuentan la historia de dos pastores que problems in the shores of the Tagus river, which at the same a orillas del Tajo cuentan sus problemas y el río se convierte en un time turns into the birthplace of the legends and where the lugar donde nacen las leyendas y se desarrollan los amores pas- shepherds’ love stories originate and develop. Eclogue III toriles. La “Égloga III” nos ofrece una belleza idealizada del Tajo. present an idyllic and beautiful Tagus. 4

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Juanelo Turriano (1500-1585) Relojero e ingeniero cremonés, que acompaña al Empera- Juanero Turriano was a clockmaker and engineer from Cremo- dor Carlos V, en su último viaje a España en su retiro del na who accompanied Charles V in his last trip to Spain when he monasterio jerónimo de Yuste. Conocido en Milán por su sought retreat in the Hieronymite Monastery of Yuste. He was planetario, sus relojes y autómatas, este genio deja en To- known in Milan for his astronomical clock, his clocks and auto- ledo el famoso “Artilugio de Juanelo”: artifi cio compuesto matons. This genius would grant Toledo his famous “Juanelo’s por cazos para elevar el agua desde el río Tajo hasta la ciu- Mechanism”, a mechanism comprised of buckets that conduc- dad imperial de Toledo, ingenio que nunca cobró. Famoso ted upwards the water from the Tagus river. Juanelo would never fue el primer autómata de la Historia creado por Juanelo: be given the due credit, nor payment, for this clever device. Also un hombre de palo que pedía limosna junto al tramo de famous was the fi rst automaton in history made by Juanelo, the la Catedral toledana que hoy lleva su nombre. Muere en so-called “Stick Man”. It was a wooden automaton which was sent Toledo sin recursos. to beg on one of the streets leading to the cathedral. It is after this automaton that the very same street has taken its name. Despite his ingenious inventions, Juanelo died penniless in Toledo. Fotógrafías: César Sanz, David Utrilla, David Blázquez y José María Moreno Santiago European Cultural Itinerary: “Routes oftheEmperor CharlesV” “Routes European CulturalItinerary: Rutas delEmperador CarlosV turismo.toledo.es Itinerario CulturalEuropeo