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Guide to the City of Toledo

Guide to the City of Toledo

WORLD HERITAGE TABLE OF CONTENTS

To ledo and its History 1 ITINERARIES IN THE CITY 4 Itinerary I 4 Itinerary II 8 Itinerary III 13 Itinerary IV 17 Other Places of Interest 20 ITINERARIES THROUGH THE PROVINCE 21 Itinerary I IRELAND 22 Itinerary II 23 Itinerary III 24 Itinerary IV 25 Itinerary V 27 Itinerary VI 28 Other Places of Interest 29

Useful Information 30 Cuisine 31 Handicrafts 32 Leisure Activites and Special Events 32 Popular Festivals 33 Map of Toledo 34 Addresses and Telephone Numbers of Interest 36 SPAIN

PORTUGAL TOLEDO

© TURESPAÑA Secretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYME Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda Text: Tomás Díaz Martínez Translation: J. West Photographs: TURESPAÑA Archives Layout: Objetivo Directo ,S.L. Printed by: EGRAF, S.A. D. L.: M. 33330-1999 Nipo: 104-99-032-5 Printed in Spain 2nd Edition 91 km 121 km 257 km

Manzanares HighwayAutopista 403 el Real El Molar MotorwayAutovía A-6 320 NationalCarretera Highway nacional er PrimaryCtra. Red Regional básica 1Road orden CUENCA 85 km N-I Emb. de SecondaryCtra. Red básica Regional 2º ordenRoad 320 Entrepeñas LocalCarretera Road local P 607 N-II AA.V.E.VE (High Speed Train) ÁVILA N-VI RailroadFerrocarril San Lorenzo HP Emb. de de Buendía P ParadorParador Alcalá HP LodgingHostería de Henares Pastrana Shrine/MonasterySantuario-Monasterio MADRID CastleCastillo Emb. de Bolarque MonumentMonumento Historic Ruins Arganda Ruinas históricas del Rey NationalParque NacionalPark San Martín Altomira CampgroundCamping de Valdeiglesias 1180 AirportAeropuerto N-III 403 e h N-V WoPatrimoniorld Heritage de la Site Humanidad rc e Méntrida lb A N-IV Mombeltrán La Torre de P r Esteban Hambrán Chinchón ta JO ié A T El Real de Illescas Seseña T Tarancón 130 km San Vicente Villarrubia 502 Santa Cruz de del Retamar 401 400 Río Navalcán ío Ocaña R Emb. de êO Rosarito R Mocejón Emb. de Torrijos 400 Las Navalcán Olías de San Julián Talavera de P del Rey Huerta de Valdecarábanos P Corral de JO la Reina TOLEDO Oropesa TA La Puebla La Guardia Almaguer N-V San Bartolomé de Montalbán Almonacid 301 de las Abiertas de Toledo Emb. de Lillo Valdecañas Alcaudete Polán RêO Quintanar El Puente de San Martín San Martín Tembleque TRUJILLO 81 km de la Orden Mora LA RODA 86 km del Arzobispo de Pusa de Montalbán Gálvez Belvís de La Puebla la Jara de Almoradiel La Los Yébenes La Nava de Ricomalillo Corral de Cantos Madridejos M O N T E 1419 S D E T O L E D O Villuercas Retuerta Villafranca de Alcázar de 1601 502 Rincón del Bullaque los Caballeros 420 San Juan de 33 km P Guadalupe de los Montes Emb. de Cíjara N-IV Logrosán RêO Emb. de 310 Gcía. de Sola

N Puebla de Daimiel Herrera Rodrigo del Duque Piedrabuena P 430 430 GU ADI ANA P 0 19 38 57 Km Villanueva de los Infantes CARTOGRAFêA: GCAR, S.L. Alcalá, 328 Tel. 3771941 - 28027 MADRID - AÑO 1997 Valdepeñas

CÓRDOBA 135 km 15 km JAÉN 120 km oledo is both capital of the province with the same name, as well as capital of the TAutonomous Community called -. It is located 70 kilometers (43 miles) south of Madrid on the Autovía N-401. Although the city is small in size, it is a leading political, economic and social center, oriented primarily towards the production of its characteristic crafts and the promotion and care of its great historical, artistic, and cultural heritage. With the exception of the mountains along the southern fringe, the province, one of the largest in Spain, is a land of flat terrain devoted primarily to agriculture, livestock and light industry. It is traversed by the Tajo () river, on the of which the two most important can be found, and the capital itself.

View of Toledo

Erected on a small hill, Toledo has a typical continental climate, cold in winter and hot in summer, although slightly tempered by the presence of the Tajo river flowing around its historic center. The months of November and February generally bring the most rainfall, though not particularly heavy, and snow is unusual. In December 1987, the UNESCO declared Toledo a World Heritage City in recognition of its uniqueness, as it is almost impossible to walk its streets without coming across an ancient mosque, a Gothic or Mudéjar church, a Romanesque or Visigothic structure, a synagogue, or a palace. Several days are needed to visit and enjoy all of the sights of Toledo, as well as a dash of adventurous spirit to fall under the spell of the city and discover its mysteries while touring it, either in search of a well-known monument, or just exploring its winding streets without a fixed course.

1 Historical Background The occupied Toledo for 373 years, a Toledo is known as The relatively short period, but City of the Three , a their influence was name which refers to the enormous. In 1085, when Christian, Islamic, and Alfonso VI took the city Hebrew cultures that walls with no bloodshed, coexisted during centuries many of the Muslim within its walls, inhabitants decided to stay impregnating it with its own with the Christians and special identity. This almost . The harmony brotherly union of traditions between the three cultures can best be seen in the bore fruit as notable as the architecture, where the School of Translators of customary artistic styles of Toledo, renowned for each one are interwoven, having recuperated part of exchanging influences and classical from forming hybrids with their various Arab documents. own personalities. The The Islamic legacy faded Mudéjar style, a mixture of with time, and the Catholic Islamic and Christian styles, Monarchs, Ferdinand and predominates in the city, Isabella, expelled the Jews combining principally in the 15th century. Romanesque structures and However, the cultural mix typical Islamic elements. in the city had been Although one of the most determined and can still be popular legends refers to felt today. With the Hercules as the founder of crowning of Charles V in the city, the fact is that 1519, Toledo became the conquered a most important city in the stronghold of villages in world, known as the 190 B.C. and gave it the Capital. name of Toletum. A very In 1561, Philip II decided important developed to move the court to while Christianity took hold Madrid, initiating a period around the first century, of political decline, but remaining until the present fortunately it had no effect day and maintaining, for The Baptism of Christ by , Hospital of Tavera on religious, artistic or better or worse, the Greco- cultural aspects. It was Latin cultural legacy. right at this time when In the year 569, after the fall of the Roman Empire at the Domenico Theotocopoulos, El Greco, the extraordinary hands of peoples from the North of , Leovigildo, painter born in Crete, decided to settle in the city and paint King of the , established his court in Toledo. In the majority of his universally acclaimed works of art. 589, it became the political and religious capital of Hispania, after the abandonment of Arianism and conversion to Catholicism by the Visigothic king Recaredo. Although dating from old, the Jewish presence was not pronounced until 712, the year in which the Moors conquered the city.

2 3 ITINERARIES IN THE CITY Practical details: Visitors who so desire may engage the services of professional tourist guides at the Information Office located at the gate. Admission to state-run is free to citizens of the age 65 and older, retired persons, and children under 18. Admission is also free to everyone on Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning. Churches are generally closed except for worship services. During , they are open all day. ITINERARY I

Rising beyond the walls of interest are the courtyard, the city is the Hospital of the aforementioned tomb, Tavera (1), a grand and the pharmacy, restored Renaissance edifice to its original form. erected by the architects After visiting the , Bustamante, Covarrubias, we continue walking and ; the latter towards the ramparts, and being responsible for the after passing the Tourist magnificent doorway and Office on our right, we the tomb of Cardinal Tavera, come to the Puerta de founder of the hospital. Bisagra (2), the gate Presently a museum, it providing the main access recreates the ambience of to the city. Moorish in the period and also houses origin, it consists of two by El Greco, round structures with a Ribera and Zurbarán, central courtyard. It was

among others. Of particular remodeled during the reign

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Sta Clara n s O D m Puerta de Bisagra of Charles V, when the contains elements not coat of arms, depicting the usually associated with this huge two-headed eagle style, such as the remains with the imperial shield, of an early Christian was placed over the , a sarcophagus or a small privilege granted Toledo by classical bust. the emperor. After passing beneath the Straight ahead is the street arch, further ahead on the called Calle Real del Calle Carretas, we come to Arrabal and almost another more simple gate immediately on our right is called Puerta de los the Church of Santiago del Alarcones. Through the Arrabal (3), called the gateway and crossing Calle Mudéjar Cathedral at times Venancio González, we because it is one of the arrive at the Paseo del best examples of this Miradero. From here, we particular style of have a magnificent view of architecture. Although the the fertile plain in the actual date of distance. is unknown, it was Continuing up Calle probably rebuilt during the Venancio González, we reign of Alfonso VI using come to the Plaza de the remains of an Arab Zocodover (5). A busy mosque, easily deduced by triangular-shaped plaza, the free-standing tower, originally called Suk-al- reminiscent of a minaret. dawad or “market of the Continuing on up the same beasts”, it is still a vital street veering to the left, center of city life dating we come to the Puerta del from the Moorish period. (4), one of the most Framed partially with celebrated gates in Toledo. arcaded buildings, it once Mudéjar in style, it was hosted festivals, as well as built in the 13th century by official and popular events. the Knights Hospitaler and At the other side of the 5 plaza is the Cuesta de Extending from the eastern Carlos V which leads to facade of the Alcázar, the the Alcázar (6), a fortress oldest one with remains of that once was the imperial the original castle, a residence and later became terrace lookout allows us a military museum and to see over the walls and regional library. It is offers a splendid view of perched on the highest the narrow valley the river point of the city, the place Tajo forms while encircling where all the forts have the city. Down and to the been built since the Roman left, we have the Alcántara era. The present citadel is a bridge and the San reconstruction of the Servando castle; opposite original building designed are the remains of the by the architects Artificio Juanelo, a curious Covarrubias and Herrera device for Charles V which was invented to bring water nearly destroyed by various from the river to the fires and practically fortress, and to the right, demolished during the the bases of the pillars Spanish of 1936. used to support an ancient Of particular interest are Roman aqueduct long ago. the north facade, the large At the foot of the south central courtyard, and the facade of the Alcázar, and imperial staircase or in one of the most staircase of honor. labyrinthian corners of the

View of the Alcázar

6 city on the Calle San Miguel, is the Church of San Miguel. Some of the construction dates from the 13th century, the rest was built at a later date. The Mudéjar tower is of interest. Continuing with our tour, we skirt around the Alcázar through the lookout area until we arrive at the Calle Alféreces Provisionales. We then proceed along this street until we reach some steps going down to the right which lead to a small square preceding the intersection of Calle Cervantes and Calle de la Concepción. Here we find the group of buildings forming the Hospital of Santa Cruz (7), the Convent of Santa Fe and the Franciscan Convent of patronage of Queen the Concepción, Isabella. Construction was constructed over what begun by the Egas brothers were once the Moorish and finished by palaces of Aliana which no Covarrubias in 1524, longer exist. achieving one of the most The Franciscan convent of brilliant examples of the La Concepción is an style and is the institution devoted to artist’s masterpiece. religious seclusion. The Particularly notable are the Convent of Santa Fe (not splendid main doorway, open to visitors) forms a the three doorways of the unit with the Hospital vestibule, the noble (Museum of Santa Cruz).It cloister, and the imposing contains the famous 11th staircase connecting the century Caliphal-style two stories of the building. Belén chapel, and the The museum is divided tomb of Fernán Pérez, into three sections: the fine adorned with 13th century arts area with paintings by Moorish stalactite El Greco and others, the plasterwork. archeological section with The Hospital of Santa Cruz Roman mosaics and other was a home for foundlings pieces, and a third devoted and orphans under the to decorative arts. 7 After leaving the museum, ITINERARY II to our right we find the Arco de la Sangre or Arch of Blood, a Moorish gate Starting at the Plaza de rebuilt after the Spanish Zocodover, and going Civil War. Upon passing down the Calle del through it, we find Comercio and then Calle ourselves once again at the del Hombre de Palo, in the Plaza de Zocodover, the old quarter of the city end of this first walking where the guilds once tour. thrived, we arrive at the Plaza del where the Cathedral (8) stands majestically. It is the Cathedral Primate of Spain and one of the most extraordinary monuments in Spain and the world. The visit is divided into two parts: the church proper, -Hospital of Tavera. Calle Cardenal Tavera, 2. and the sacristy and chapel w 925 22 04 51. of San Juan which are part Open: 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 of the Cathedral museum. p.m..and 3:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. Although construction -Alcázar. Cuesta de Carlos V, 2. began in 1226, the w 925 22 30 38. Cathedral was not finished Open: 9.30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. until the end of the 15th Museum of Santa Cruz. Calle century, undergoing Cervantes 3. w 925 22 10 36. numerous changes and Fax 925 22 58 62. additions after the Open: 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. completion of the building. Sunday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. As a result, although Closed Monday from 2 to 4 p.m. essentially Gothic in style, the Cathedral is an extraordinary Plaza de Zocodover structure where many different architectural styles and exceptional artists converge; artists such as Master Martín, Petrus Petri, Enrique Egas, Berruguete, Pedro and Juan Guas, Narciso Tomé, Rodrigo Alemán, Villalpando and many others. The building has a basilica ground plan 8 and the other by a Gothic-Renaissance dome. In the interior we find the choir, set in the center of the main nave with magnificent carved choir stalls; the main chapel and the splendid Late Gothic high altar; the ambulatory, a model for other churches; the spectacular Transparente sculpture behind the high altar; and numerous smaller chapels, such as the Corpus Christi chapel, where they still celebrate mass according to ancient Mozarab rites; the chapels of San Ildefonso, Santiago and Reyes Nuevos, to mention a few. The sacristy in the Cathedral museum houses various Cathedral paintings by with a central nave and , Rubens, double aisles. Although there Velázquez, , are numerous outstanding and others, in addition to elements, we will only one of the greatest name a few. paintings by El Greco, El All the exterior doors are Expolio (The Disrobing of handsome, but the most Christ), as well as other notable is the main works by the artist. doorway. This entrance Visitors can also see a consists of three doors: the of inimitable Door of Hell, Door of miniature codices, clerical Pardon and Door of vestments, and the Judgement. Above the Cathedral treasure which main door is a sculptural includes the famous group depicting the Last processional monstrance Supper. Two towers add by Arfe, an elaborate work the finishing touches to the in gold and silver with facade, one topped by a precious stones weighing Flamboyant-Gothic spire more than 200 kilos. 9 Leaving the Cathedral, we Pedro, a private home with find ourselves in the Plaza huge wooden doors del Ayuntamiento, and incrusted with wrought almost directly in front, we iron spheres, as well as the see the Archbishop’s palace of Suer Téllez of palace, an austere Meneses, now a seminary. Renaissance building. To In the nearby Plaza de San the left is the Ayuntamiento Andrés is the Church of or (9), also San Andrés (11), one of the Renaissance in style, begun most interesting structures by Herrera and finished off in Toledo. Its main body, by Jorge Manuel from the 12th or 13th Theotocopoulos, son of El century, is Mudéjar and the Greco, with two corner sanctuary is Late Gothic. It towers with Baroque spires. has both Visigothic and Towards our left is Calle Moorish elements, as well Santa Isabel which takes us as a lovely altarpiece. It is microcosm of the diversity in the city. Retracing our steps towards the apse of the Church of Santa Isabel, we now descend by the steep Calle Sola until we reach the Carrera de San Sebastián where the Church of San Sebastián stands. Although presently closed, it preserves Cathedral sacristy the architectural structure of the mosque it once was. to Santa Isabel de los Proceeding a little further, Reyes (10), a cloistered we detour on the Paseo de convent dating from 1477. la Incurnia and come to The church is usually open the banks of the river Tajo. all year round, making it Going upstream, we can convenient to visit and to stroll along a path where admire the main altarpiece. we occasionally spot a The convent also includes fisherman. the Church of San Antolín Straight ahead is the Casa and the palaces of Toledo del Diamantista (Diamond and Ayala which preserve Merchant’s House), one of an interesting Gothic- the most typical houses in Mudéjar doorway with Toledo, now a School of Arts Caliphal influences. Next and Crafts. We now right to the convent, we find the up the Calle Bajada del palace of the king Don Barco until we reach the 10 Town Hall

Carrera de San Sebastián and beauty, the graceful again, opposite the Late Mudéjar tower, and various Gothic convent of San Gothic paintings merit our Pablo. attention. Proceeding on the same Going up Calle de San street of Carrera de San Lucas and Calle de San Juan Sebastián for a short while, de la Penitencia while we come to San Lucas (12), enjoying a view of the city, a group of buildings of we come to an ancient uncertain age, but Franciscan convent. A little undoubtedly the oldest of further along on the left, the Mozarabic churches in we can see the doorway of Toledo. Its great plasticity the school for poor young

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Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes

13 El Greco House-museum

Toledo and is presently the renowned by used as a museum for El Greco, “Burial of the Moorish and Mudéjar Count of Orgaz”, applied arts. considered one of the Down and around the greatest masterpieces of all corner to the right, forming times. the same block is the Calle de Taller del Moro Fuensalida palace, today leads to Paseo del Tránsito, the headquarters of the an avenue with one of the presidency of the few garden areas in the Communities Council of city. We turn right on to Castilla-La Mancha, as well the Calle de Samuel Leví as the Church of Santo and come to the El Greco Tomé (16). Originally a House-museum (17), an 12th century mosque, the elegant and spacious church has a magnificent edifice with special 14th century Mudéjar attention given to details tower with some Visigothic and furnishings of the elements on the doorway, period of El Greco. It also but the main attraction is houses works by the 14 celebrated painter, as well the cliff called Roca as by other artists, such as Tarpeya where criminals Murillo and Valdés Leal. were hurled off centuries ago. A short distance away from A little further along, we the El Greco’s House- find the Synagogue of museum and on the same Santa María la Blanca (19), street of Calle de Samuel built or rebuilt in the 12th Leví is El Tránsito century. It is also synagogue (18), also a characteristic of the . Built Mudéjar style in Toledo, around 1357, it contains with a central nave and the finest Mudéjar coffered double aisles sloping towards ceiling of all Toledo and the exterior, plaster tracery walls decorated with and horseshoe . plaster tracery, some with A little ahead on the left, Hebrew inscriptions, and behind the School of the shield of Castille Applied Arts and Crafts, encased in intertwining rises the imposing stems, flowers and leaves. Monastery of San Juan de The museum exhibits los Reyes (20), the various Sephardic pieces, masterpiece of Juan Guas. the majority of them It is a typical example of related to worship. Flamboyant Gothic Proceeding down the Calle architecture and the last de los Reyes Católicos, a great building of this style continuation of Calle de in Toledo. Its construction Samuel Leví, and to the left was ordered by the of Plaza de Barrio Nuevo is Catholic Monarchs. a small side street leading Notable in the interior are to the recently reopened the church, with its superb Victorio Macho House- decoration, and the cloister, museum. It is located on with its lovely carvings in

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t Isabel o e C s z i l T a C Palacio del stone. Our attention is also which takes us to the drawn to the chains bridge of San Martín (21); hanging from the exterior built in the 13th century, it walls, shackles of the is one of the few that still Christians freed from preserves its two defensive slavery in the wars with the towers. Going down to the Moors. banks of the river and After leaving the monastery following the direction of and continuing along the the current, we come to Calle de los Reyes the Baño de la Cava, a Católicos, to our left we solitary tower that used to come to the Calle de los be the entrance to a bridge Alamillos de San Martín built in the 12th century. Returning to the Plaza de San Martín, we should take the Paseo de la Ronda -Taller del Moro. Calle Taller Nueva along the walls to del Moro, 3. w 925 22 45 00. reach the Puerta del Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 Cambrón (22), originally a to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. gate from Visigothic times, -Church of Santo Tomé. Plaza although its present aspect del Conde, 1. w 925 25 60 98. dates from 1576, making it Open: 10 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. Renaissance in style. The (Summer until 6:45 p.m.). arch is adorned with a -El Greco House-museum. large coat of arms, and the Calle de Samuel Leví, s/n. w 925 22 40 46. small towers are topped by Fax 925 22 45 59. spires. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 Leaving the walled area to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and behind and zigzagging Sunday afternoon. down a path and crossing -El Tránsito Synagogue and the road at the pedestrian Sephardic Museum. Calle de Samuel Leví. w 925 22 36 65. bridge, we come to Cristo Fax 925 21 58 31. de la Vega (23), a Mudéjar Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 hermitage situated next to to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and the archeological remains Sunday afternoon. of the basilica of Santa -Synagogue of Santa María , a burial place for Blanca. Calle de los Reyes Católicos, 4. w 925 22 72 57. a large number of Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Visigothic kings. 3:30 to 6 p.m. (Summer until 7 p.m.). -San Juan de los Reyes. Calle Reyes Católicos, 17. w 925 22 38 02. Open: 10 a.m. to 1:45 p.m. and 3:30 to 6 p.m. (Summer until 7 p.m.).

16 ITINERARY IV monuments in Toledo. Dating from 999, it is an Starting at the Puerta del atypical mosque with a Cambrón and walking square ground plan with down the Paseo de the aisles and columns Recaredo to our right, we forming nine architectural can enjoy a long walk spaces covered by caliphal along one of the best vaults. In the 12th century preserved sections of the a Romanesque-Mudéjar city walls. The next stop is sanctuary was added, the the old Bisagra gate or only transformation the Puerta de Alfonso VI (24), building has undergone. dating from 838 and one of Unfortunately, its visiting the purest Moorish hours are very irregular, . On the other and it is not easy to find it side, we find a small square open. and proceed up on Calle de We continue walking to Alfonso VI to the Church of the end of the street of Santiago del Arrabal. Calle del Cristo de la Luz Shortly, we reach the Calle until we come to Calle de Real del Arrabal and los Alfileritos, and to our proceed along this street right we continue down until we find the Calle del the street until we reach Cristo de la Luz on our the Plaza de San Vicente. right. We go through the Here we find the Puerta de Valmardón, a neoclassical University 10th century Moorish gate palace of Lorenzana, the and to the left, protected 13th century Mudéjar by wrought iron gates, we Church of San Vicente, and find Cristo de la Luz (25), Las Gaitanas, a cloistered one of the most important convent including a church

Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz

17 considered to be one of the magnificent Moorish tower. best examples of the Right behind the church, Toledan Baroque style. we find the first monastery Walking through two of the built in Toledo, Santo Cobertizos, typical wood- Domingo el Antiguo (28), covered passageways in situated on the plaza of the Toledo, we reach the Plaza same name and cited in de el Real, different written documents one of the most secluded as far back as 1085. It places in the city. The contains various artifacts of square is framed by the Visigothic origin, paintings walls of several convents, by El Greco, including his one of the most interesting tomb, as he was buried in being Santo Domingo del the monastic crypt. Real (26), a Baroque Nearby and after crossing building with a splendid through the Plaza de classical doorway, in Padilla and taking the Calle former times a stopping de San Román, we find the place for kings. Casa de Mesa, an old After crossing the Plaza de palace with a Renaissance Santo Domingo el Real doorway; the convent of and proceeding on the San Clemente with a Calle Buzones, we turn to Plateresque doorway by the right and arrive at the Covarrubias; the old Palacio de la Diputación, monastery of San Pedro built in the 19th century. Mártir, and the Church of Opposite and on the top of San Román (29), presently a steep incline, we find the the Museum of Councils lovely 13th Mudéjar and Visigothic Culture. Church of Santa Leocadia, Visigothic in origin, San (27); although restored, Román was later used as a it still preserves a mosque, but its present

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appearance is Mudéjar Proceeding along the Calle from the 13th century. It Alfonso X el Sabio and contains elements from turning to the right to get various styles: Caliphal the Calle Nuncio Viejo, we arches, Roman columns, once again arrive at the Visgothic and Mozarab Cathedral and at the end of capitals, and even a our tour of the city of Toledo. Byzantine one. Almost all of the walls are covered with Romanesque paintings. The museum exhibits reproductions of E R the famous treasure of Guarrazar, medieval -Santo Domingo El Antiguo. Plaza de Santo Domingo el codices and numerous Antiguo. Visigothic antiquities, w G 925 22 29 30. including gold and Open: 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4 a n silverworks. to 7 p.m. Closed Sunday n Continuing along the Calle morning. In winter, open only San Román, we come to the holidays and weekends. Plaza where -Museum of Councils and Visigothic Culture. Calle San í the huge imposing Church a of San Ildefonso (30) can Clemente, 4. w G be seen, the best Toledan 925 22 78 72. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 a Baroque style and an n excellent example of Jesuit to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. eg construction. 19

Pa OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST Beyond the walls, the ruins also Moorish in origin, of a Roman Circus (31) can which was totally restored be visited in the garden in the Mudéjar style during area between Cristo de la the 14th century and Vega and the Hospital de nowadays serves as a Tavera. The circus was one university residence and of the largest in the Roman youth hostel. Empire, comparable to the Within the city walls, we Circus Maximus of Rome, can visit the Casa de las attesting to the importance Cadenas (34), presently the of Toledo in ancient times. Museum of Contemporary Art, located on the Calle de las Bulas in the midst of the Jewish quarter. The building dates from the 16th century and is a typical example of a traditional Toledan house. The museum, on the other hand, contains works from the 19th and 20th centuries. Many other monuments are hidden among the streets of Toledo, Bridge of Alcántara and it would be impossible to list all Also outside the walls, at of them here. It suffices to the foot of the cliff of the mention a few, such as the Alcázar fortress is the Church of Santa Justa, the Alcántara bridge (32). This Convent of the Franciscanos bridge was built by the Descalzos or Barefoot Romans, although later it Franciscans, today the was greatly reformed by of the Courts of Castilla-La both Arabs and Christians. Mancha, Santa Eulalia It boasts a lovely Mudéjar parish church, the New tower. At the west end is a University, the convent of gate tower, the 10th Santa Clara la Real or the century Moorish Puerta de Corral de Don Diego. Alcántara. Nearby and at the end of the Calle Cervantes and right next to the wall, we -Museum of Contemporary see the Puerta de Doce Art. Calle de las Bulas, 15. Cantos, a gate of Moorish w 925 22 78 71. origin. Crossing over the Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 Tajo river, on the other side to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays of the bridge, we have the and Sunday afternoon. San Servando castle (33), 20 erhaps somewhat eclipsed by the impressive architectural assembly found in the capital, the Pprovince of Toledo boasts other and places of interest filled with artistic and historic treasures, as well as magnificent landscapes. The following are some of the trips we recommend.

Castle in Escalona

TheThe ProvinceProvince

21 and the Peñas Negras ITINERARY I castle are of interest. Ten kilometers southwest of Mora, we find the small Leave Toledo on the town of Orgaz. It is said Ciudad Real road N-401 that El Cid was the first going southeast and turn mayor of this typical off 3 kilometers later at the Castilian town, brimming C-400. After 14 more with white houses and kilometers, we find covered with coats of arms, . The cobblestone streets and most interesting site in the Toledan-style courtyards. town is the Moorish castle Of special interest is the predominating over it. Six Baroque Church of Santo kilometers later in Tomás Apóstol, built by Churriguera, the bridge called Puente de los Cinco TOLEDO Ojos, and the massive well-preserved castle of the Almonacid Counts of Orgaz. de Toledo N-401 Mora Río Tajo Orgaz Los Yébenes C-400

Consuegra

Mascaraque, there is Continuing on the N-401, another Moorish castle, 8 kilometers south of which has been totally Orgaz, we encounter Los restored. Five kilometers Yébenes, a town further will take us to traditionally engaged in Mora, a town famous for hunting. It boasts two 16th its as displayed in century churches and a the festival held here. 17th palace, La Its fine Gothic church Encomienda de San Juan. After traveling a total of 26 kilometers southeast, we Windmills in Consuegra find the typical La Mancha town of Consuegra, an important town in Roman

22 times. Located at the foot of the hill called Cerro ITINERARY II Calderico, there is an impressive castle boasting an exceptional , as After driving northeast for well as some typical 28 kilometers on the Quixotic windmills. In Cuenca road N-400, we addition, Consuegra is take the turnoff on our home to other treasures, right to Yepes. Here we including the can admire the remains of Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), ancients walls and the the Corredores, site of the splendid Church of San municipal museum, the Benito built by Covarrubias large fortified tower of which boasts Plateresque Casa de la Tercia, and the doorways, a Renaissance churches of San Juan and tower, and a magnificent Santísimo Cristo de altarpiece. , a museum of Some 15 kilometers to the ancient religious votive northeast is Ocaña, a town offerings. which is considered a model of Mudéjar architecture. Seat on various occasions of the Castilian courts, Ocaña has monuments as notable as -Consuegra Tourist Office. the Baroque arcaded Plaza Molino de Viento Bolero. Mayor, the imposing w 925 47 57 31. monumental fountain of Museum, castle, windmills and Fuente Grande, the other monuments are open Mudéjar-Gothic Church of from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 San Juan Bautista, a former to 7 p.m. (Fall and winter from synagogue with 3:30 to 6 p.m.) Saturday, architectural elements from Sunday and holidays starting the 13th to the 17th at 10:30 a.m.. to 6 p.m. (fall and winter) and 7 p.m. (spring centuries, and the convents and summer). of Santo Domingo and Carmelitas Descalzas.

jo a T ío Ocaña R

N-400 Yepes A-IV

TOLEDO La Guardia

Tembleque

23 Going south, after another 15 kilometers on the ITINERARY III Autovía de Andalucía A-4, we arrive at La Guardia, whose surroundings are About 27 kilometers scattered with picturesque northwest of Toledo on the cave-dwellings called Silos. Ávila road N-403 and after In the town center, we find passing Rielves, we arrive the hermitage of the Santo at Torrijos, a town of great Niño, the old Casa de la economic importance Inquisición (House of the where we can admire the Inquisition), and the parish collegiate Church of Church of La Asunción. Santísimo Sacramento, a After 12 more kilometers small 16th century Gothic- on the same road, we Renaissance cathedral with come to Tembleque. Of a splendid doorway and a interest here is the famed beautiful high altarpiece, Plaza Mayor from the era as well as La Caridad of Philip IV, one of the hospital, and the chapel of most lovely and original, Cristo de la Sangre. and which also houses Around 12 kilometers later, municipal buildings. Other we come to the little town attractions include the of Maqueda, whose castle Gothic-Renaissance can be seen from a great Church of La Asunción, the distance. Also of interest Baroque Casa de las are the Mudéjar Vela tower Torres, and the hermitage and the Rollo, a column of Cristo del Valle, also marking municipal Baroque. jurisdiction at the end of the 15th century. Escalona is our next stop, 13 kilometers to the north. The castle here is -Ocaña Tourist Office. presumably second in Plaza Mayor. w importance in the province 925 12 08 91. only to the one in Montalbán. The remains of ancient walls, the Plaza Mayor, and the convent of Almorox

Escalona

Maqueda Torrijos

Rielves ajo N-403 T ío R TOLEDO

24 the Concepcionistas are other attractions. ITINERARY IV Concluding our visit, eight kilometers farther to the north, we reach Almorox, Guadamur is about 12 where we can admire the kilometers southwest of Plaza Mayor with the Toledo just off the largest “Rollo” (ancient Navahermosa road C-401. stone pillar) in the Here we find one of the province, along with lovely most splendid restored municipal buildings from castles, furnished in period the 17th century. style. Also meriting a visit are the hermitage of San Antón, now a museum of Popular Arts and Customs of the , the hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la Natividad, and the 16th century Mudéjar parish church. A little farther in Polán, there are the remains of another fortress. A little more than twenty kilometers southwest and

Guadamur Castle

25 Río Tajo La Puebla TOLEDO de Montalbán Guadamur

C-403 C-401 San Martín de Montalbán Gálvez

having passed Gálvez, we Another twenty kilometers turn right on the C-403 to north takes us to La Puebla get to San Martín de de Montalbán where we Montalbán. In the center of can admire its remarkable town, our interest is drawn Plaza Mayor, the Dukes of to the Church of San Osuna’s palace with its Andrés and the Roman notable Plateresque bridge, Puente de la doorway, the parish Church Canasta. But it is a short of Virgen de , the Las distance to the north and Concepcionistas monastery, still in the same township and the hospital of Cristo that we find two of the de la Caridad. most important monuments in the province: the Montalbán castle and the Church of Santa María de Melque. Rising upon ancient Visigothic and Moorish forts, the Montalbán castle was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century and is a perfect example of a medieval defensive construction. The Church of Santa María de -Museum of Popular Arts and Melque, on the other hand, Customs of the Montes de is a Visigothic-Mozarabic Toledo. Hermitage of San structure from the 9th Antón. w 925 29 15 37. century, magnificently By appointment only. preserved just as it was in -Montalbán Castle. its period of splendor, w 925 41 70 03. when it was a part of a Ayuntamiento (Town Hall). Visigothic monastic Open: Saturday 8:30 a.m. to complex. It is one of the 1:30 p.m. Closed from symbols of Toledo’s February 1st to May 16th. architectural roots. 26 Renaissance palace, and ITINERARY V nearby, the Gothic- Renaissance Church of Nuestra Señora de la Oropesa can be found 117 Asunción. Oropesa also kilometers west of Toledo; has other monuments, such a total of 81 km. on the as the 15th century Old C-502 road to Talavera de Town Hall and the massive la Reina, and 36 more on Church of San Bernardo. the A-5 Autovía. The town Thirty six kilometers from dates from pre-Roman Oropesa on the A-5 times and is presided over Autovía, we find Talavera

Talavera TOLEDO A-V de la Reina C-502 Oropesa Río Tajo

by the castle-palace of de la Reina, the city with Álvarez de Toledo with the largest population in architectural elements from the province and the most the 12th and 15th century, prosperous commercial presently a . Next and industrial center there to it, there is another also. Talavera de la Reina

Talavera de la Reina

27 is cited in classical texts as far back as 181 B.C. with -Talavera Tourist Office. the name of Aebura. Its Ronda de Cañillo. present name refers to w 925 82 63 22. Queen Mary of , -Ruiz de Luna Museum. wife of Alfonso XI. Calle de San Agustín el Viejo. Especially noteworthy in w 925 80 01 49. Talavera are the Gothic- Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 Mudéjar collegiate Church to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays of Santa María la Mayor and Sunday afternoon. with its lovely doorway, graceful tower, large main altarpiece and beautiful cloister, and the basilica of the Virgen del Prado, built ITINERARY VI in the 16th and 17th century, an authentic museum of the famous Talavera ceramics. Other Traveling south 13 places of interest include the kilometers from Oropesa Church of San Prudencio, on a local road, we reach the Plaza del Pan, and the , a convents of San Agustín el town with an important Viejo and Santiago el pottery tradition and which Viejo, present site of the owes its name to the Ruiz de Luna Museum, spectacular bridge over the devoted to ceramics. Tajo river, built in the 14th century by order of Pedro Tenorio, El Puente del Arzobispo Archbishop Primate of Toledo. About ten kilometers to the south is Navalmoralejo. Nearby, we find Ciudad de Vascos, a Moorish town probably abandoned around the 11th century for unknown reasons and which can be admired today in its entirety, one of the most important archeological finds in Spain. To the east, going through La Estrella and and taking the C-401, we 28 TOLEDO Oropesa El Puente del Arzobispo Río Tajo C-401 Navalmoralejo La Estrella Los Navalucillos La Nava de Ricomalillo

have a journey of more arrive at Los Navalucillos, than 40 kilometers through a town near the famous the foothills of the Montes natural reserve known as de Toledo until, after Los Chorros. turning off to our right, we

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST

Illescas, Esquivias and century noble mansion, Seseña are towns about 40 devoted to Dulcinea, as kilometers to the north of well as the Gothic- Toledo and very close to Renaissance Church of one another. In the first, San Antonio Abad. the 16th century hospital- sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de la Caridad has -Hospital-sanctuary Nuestra several paintings by El Señora de la Caridad. Calle Greco and the Gothic- del Cardenal Cisneros, 2. Mudéjar parish Church of (Illescas). w 925 54 00 35. La Asunción. In Esquivias, Open: 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and there is a house-museum 4:30 to 6 p.m. Closed Sunday devoted to Cervantes, morning. and in Seseña, the -Casa Cervantes. Plaza de Puñoenrostro castle was Cervantes, 1. (Esquivias). built in the 14th century. w 925 52 01 61. Another notable town is Open: 10 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. El Toboso, located in the -House-museum of Dulcinea southeast corner of the del Toboso. Calle Quijote, 1. province, more than 100 w 925 19 72 88. kilometers from Toledo. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 The town, immortalized by to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays Cervantes, has a house- and Sunday afternoon. museum installed in a 16th 29 HOW TO GET TRANSPORTATION THERE IN THE CITY

Railway station (RENFE). Toledo is the perfect city to Paseo de la Rosa. Toledo. tour on foot. All of its w 925 22 30 99. monuments, museums and Trains depart daily from places of interest are close railway station in to one another, and long Madrid (Glorieta de distances are not a Atocha; w 91 328 90 20) problem. However, for Toledo about every two comfortable shoes are a hours, starting at 7:05 a.m. must since many streets are until 8:40 p.m. The trip made of stones and takes approximately one cobblestones, and walking hour and a half. can be tedious. station. Avenida de Castilla-La Mancha. Public Parking: Toledo. w 925 21 58 50. El Corralillo (behind the depart daily every Alcázar fortress). 30 minutes for Toledo from Private Parking: the Bus Station in Madrid In the historic quarter of (Méndez Álvaro. Toledo, parking is w 91 468 45 11), starting controlled by the O.R.A. at 5:30 a.m. until 10 p.m. and tickets are dispatched The trip takes approximately from machines. In one hour. addition, private garages are listed below: El Miradero on Calle Gerardo Lobo; There is one Parador with a Garaje Alcázar on Calle four-star rating in Toledo at del General Moscardó, 8; the Cerro del Emperador. Garaje Santo Tomé on w 925 22 18 50; Calle de Santa Ursula, 3 Fax 925 22 51 66. From its and Garaje Toledo on terrace, you can enjoy a Calle del Instituto, 5. magnificent and privileged A large fleet of taxis is also view of the monumental available. The main stops city. are located at the Cuesta The city has more than ample del Alcázar, Cuesta de la hotel accommodations Vega, and the bus station. available to visitors; three There is no permanent taxi four-star hotels, six three- stop at the railway station. star hotels, and numerous Radio taxis: modest establishments, w 925 25 50 50. including various campgrounds. For more information, contact the Spanish Tourist Office or any travel agency.

30 A special train, called the streets. This train runs Tren Imperial, offers everyday from 11 a.m. to visitors a panoramic view 2 p.m. and 4 to 6 p.m. The of Toledo and a visit trip takes approximately 50 through some of the minutes.

CUISINE

Toledo is the leading Spanish province in small game hunting and one of the richest for large game also. Garden vegetables should also be mentioned because of their variety and quality. Toledan cuisine, with a very rich culinary tradition in the past, is once again becoming a force to contend with, thanks to the excellent ingredients available. A typical Toledan speciality is perdiz estofada (braised partridge), but there are many other dishes, such as sopa (a type of garlic soup), pisto manchego (a medley of chopped tomatos, zucchini, green peppers usually accompanied with eggs), migas (fried breadcrumbs seasoned with garlic and paprika), trucha a la toledana (trout Toledo-style), cochifrito de cordero (lamb ), tortilla a la magra (omelette with lean ham), cordoniz a la toledana (quail Toledo-style), venado con setas (venison with mushrooms) or jabalí (boar), to mention a few. The cheese of the is also exceptional. The renowned Manchego cheese, whether made purely from sheep’s milk, mixed with cow’s milk, or cured in oil, is always appetizing. Sweet- lovers will find it hard to resist one of Toledo’s prize-winning delights, marzipan. With regards to wine, two regional varieties with appellation d’origin: La Mancha - whites, rosés, clarets and reds; and Méntrida - full-bodied wines, fruity wines, reds and rosés, are perfect with meals or anytime.

31 Ceramics HANDICRAFTS the town of Lagartera, famous for its fine Toledo’s craft tradition in embroidered linens and metalworking is legendary. tablecloths, as well as Swords, daggers, suits of excellent leatherwork. armor, wrought iron grating, locks, furniture, and decorative items LEISURE continue preserving the ACTIVITIES AND quality that have made SPECIAL EVENTS them world famous. Ceramics and pottery are To find out about the two crafts that have seen different activities that can their popularity increase be enjoyed in Toledo and from the 16th century to its province, consult the the present-day. local newspaper or a Polychrome and glazed bulletin published by the ceramics with both Delegación Provincial de naturalistic and geometric la Consejería de shapes from the region of Educación y Cultura Talavera and El Puente del which can be obtained at Arzobispo are well-known Tourist Offices. But one for their excellent quality. place that deserves to be Other crafts include the art highlighted on Toledo’s of damascene, a technique cultural scene is the Rojas consisting of inlaying gold Theater, a 19th century or silver threads in inferior building located on the metals forming figures or Plaza Mayor which serves patterns in keeping with at times as a musical the artist’s imagination; auditorium, a theater, or embroidery, which is movie house, depending especially noteworthy in on the program. 32 Toledo has the greatest POPULAR concentration of bars and FESTIVALS nightspots on Calle Alfileritos, the Plaza de The festival or fiesta of Zocodover and adjacent Corpus Christi in Toledo, streets, as well as outside declared of international the walls in the district interest to the tourist, has known as Santa Teresa. been held on the Sunday of On the other hand and as the ninth week after Holy previously mentioned, the Week for the last eight ranks centuries. Presided over by high in abundance of fish the archbishop primate and game. The most himself, it is a spectacular common species of large procession displaying the game are deer, boar and roe monumental monstrance by deer; and for small game, Arfe, among other partridge, quail, hare, rabbit treasures. Houses are also and ringdove. The Montes adorned for the occasion de Toledo is the mountain with antique fabrics from area with the greatest the medieval weavers’ concentration of game. In guilds, and the ground is regards to fishing, carp, red covered with flowers and mullet, bogue, and tench fragrant herbs. The entire are the most common. For city bends over backwards more information for the occasion. concerning game preserves Other important festivals and licenses, contact: are: Danzantes y Pecados (Dancers and Sinners) in Federación Regional de the town of Camuñas, the Caza (Regional Hunting same day as Corpus Christi; Federation). Calle del the celebration of the Rosa Comercio, 22. del Azafrán in Consuegra, w 925 22 42 63. the last Sunday of October; Federación Regional de and the Olive festival in Pesca (Regional Fishing Mora de Toledo, the last Federation). Travesía Mas de Sunday in April. All of them Ribero, 13. have been declared of w 925 22 65 38. interest to the tourist.

Corpus Christi Festival

33 ADDRESSES AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS OF INTEREST Te lephone dialing code: International: 34 TOURIST INFORMATION TURESPAÑA w 901 300 600 www.tourspain.es Directorate General of , Trade and Handicrafts Calle Río Estenilla, s/n. Polígono Industrial Santa María de Benquerencia. 45071-Toledo. w 925 26 78 00. Fax 925 26 78 74 Tourist Board Plaza del Ayuntamiento, 1. w 925 25 40 30 LOCAL TOURIST OFFICES: To ledo: Puerta de Bisagra. w 925 22 08 43 Consuegra: w 925 47 57 31 Ocaña: Plaza Mayor. w 925 12 08 91 Talavera: Ronda del Cañillo. w 925 82 63 22 TRANSPORATION: Renfe: Paseo de la Rosa. Toledo. w 925 22 30 99 Buses: Avenida de Castilla-La Mancha. Toledo. w 925 21 58 50 Taxis: w 925 25 50 50 Traffic Information: Highway Information: w 900 123 505 Traffic Information: w 925 22 08 29 POSTAL AND OTHER SERVICES: Post Office and Telegrams: Calle de la Plata, 1. Toledo. w 925 22 36 11 USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Red Cross: w 925 21 60 60; Hospital Emergencies: w 061; National Police: w 091; : w 092; Citizen Information: w 010 : Central Reservation Office: Calle Requena, 3. 28013-Madrid. w 91 516 66 66. Fax 91 516 66 57. www.parador.es To ledo: Cerro del Emperador. w 925 22 18 50. Fax 925 22 51 66 Oropesa: Plaza del Palacio, 1. w 925 43 00 00. Fax 925 43 07 77 SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD Canada. . Tourist Office of Spain. 2 Bloor Street West, 34th floor. Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2. w 1(416) 961 3131. Fax 1(416) 961 1992 E-mail: [email protected] Great Britain. London. Spanish Tourist Office. 22-23 Manchester Square. London W1M5AP. w 44171/ 486 80 77. Fax 44171/ 486 80 34 E-mail: [email protected] Japan. . Tourist Office of Spain. Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg. 4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. Tokyo-105. w 813/ 34 32 61 41-42. Fax 813/ 34 32 61 44 E-mail: [email protected] United States of America . Tourist Office of Spain. 8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960. Beverly Hills, California 90211. w 1(323) 658 7188. Fax 1(323) 658 1061 E-mail: [email protected] Chicago. Tourist Office of Spain. Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East. 845 North Michigan Avenue. Chicago, Illinois 60611. w 1(312) 642 1992. Fax 1(312) 642 9817 E-mail: [email protected] . Tourist Office of Spain. 1221 Brickell Avenue. Miami, Florida 33131. w 1(305) 358 1992, Fax 1(305) 358 8223 E-mail: [email protected] New York. Tourist Office of Spain. 666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floor, New York, NewYork 10103. w 1(212) 265 8822. Fax 1(212) 265 8864 E-mail: [email protected] EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada. Calle Nuñez de Balboa, 35. w 91 431 43 00. Fax 91 431 23 67 Great Britain. Calle Fernando el Santo, 16. w 91 319 02 00. Fax 91 308 10 33 Japan. Calle Serrano, 109. w 91 590 76 00. Fax 91 590 13 21 United States. Calle Serrano, 75. w 91 587 22 00. Fax 91 587 23 03 36 TALAVERA DE LA REINA 80 km MADRID 70 km MOCEJÓN 13 km

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R êO T A J O CARTOGRAFêA: GCAR, S.L. Alcalá, 328 Tel. 3771941 - 28027 MADRID - AÑO 1997 P TURESPAÑA I Secretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYME Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda

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