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Hall, Jenny ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5200-4308 (2018) Women mountaineers: A study of affect, sensoria and emotion. Doctoral thesis, York St John University. Downloaded from: http://ray.yorksj.ac.uk/id/eprint/3793/ Research at York St John (RaY) is an institutional repository. It supports the principles of open access by making the research outputs of the University available in digital form. Copyright of the items stored in RaY reside with the authors and/or other copyright owners. Users may access full text items free of charge, and may download a copy for private study or non-commercial research. For further reuse terms, see licence terms governing individual outputs. Institutional Repository Policy Statement RaY Research at the University of York St John For more information please contact RaY at [email protected] 1 Women mountaineers: A study of affect, sensoria and emotion Jenny Hall Submitted in accordance with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy York St John University School of Humanities, Religion and Philosophy September 2018 1 2 The candidate confirms that the work submitted is her own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material. Any reuse must comply with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 and any licence under which this copy is released. © 2018 York St John University and Jenny Hall The right of Jenny Hall to be identified as Author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. 2 3 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Academically, I dedicate this thesis to the memory of Professor Steve Watson, who through his belief in me changed the course of my life by supporting my application for a Studentship at York St John University. I also thank my supervisors Dr Dai O’Brien, Dr Pauline Couper and Associate Professor Emma Waterton for their unwavering patience, guidance and confidence in my research. They have steered me and provided invaluable insight that has helped this thesis reach a logical and useful conclusion. I would like to thank all the mountaineers who participated in the research for their candour and support which ultimately made this research possible, as well as Nicola Jasieniecka, Mountain Training (MT), for supplying statistics, in June 2016 and March 2017, on female participation in mountain qualifications. Personally I could not have achieved this thesis without the support of friends Tim, Vic and Sam, who have provided feedback and encouragement, and my husband Louis, who has been my rock throughout. 3 4 ABSTRACT This thesis has built on the philosophical foundations of Derridean deconstruction to provide a contemporary approach for researching autoimmunitary affective forces of gender in mountaineering. For the first time, this research has traced patterns of behaviour, from the earliest instances through to the present day, so as to explore the emotional and sensorial experiences of female mountaineers in the UK. Using experimental go-along and mobile video ethnographic techniques empirical data was co-produced in situ during eight day-long mountaineering expeditions. The empirical findings produced an expanded notion of ‘mountaincraft’, incorporating gender specific pedagogies of learning, adaptation and teaching, as well as an understanding, in particular, how silence is used to develop a wider sensorial attunement to risk, and also tactics for managing fear. Exposure to risk through mountaineering was found to be a chief motivation and manner by which women achieved a sense of wellbeing. These findings have demonstrated how gender matters in the male space of mountaineering, impacting on women in very particular ways. However, it has also problematized this hypermasculine space, demonstrating how women, as outsiders, mountaineer differently, offering the potential for growth and development in the world of professional mountaineering. 4 5 CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .............................................................................................................. 3 ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................................. 4 CONTENTS .................................................................................................................................. 5 LIST OF FIGURES ....................................................................................................................... 11 LIST OF TABLES ......................................................................................................................... 12 CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................... 13 1.1 Research question and structure of the thesis ............................................................... 16 1.2 Introduction to mountaineering: Tourism, nature and adventure ................................. 18 1.3 Hard and soft mountaineering ....................................................................................... 19 1.4 Mountaineering and climbing: Definitions ..................................................................... 20 CHAPTER TWO: INTRODUCTION TO WOMEN’S MOUNTAINEERING........................................ 23 2.1 Institutionalisation of mountaineering ........................................................................... 24 2.1.1 Codification and the creation of clubs ..................................................................... 25 2.2 Early beginnings: Being noble and manly ....................................................................... 27 2.3 A hidden golden age (1850 – 1900) ................................................................................ 29 2.3.1 Writing and publishing: Being unostentatious and invisible .................................... 31 2.3.2 Competition, imperialism and athleticism............................................................... 34 2.3.3 Manliness and the body .......................................................................................... 35 2.3.4 Emancipation from the received medical wisdom .................................................. 37 2.3.5 Victorian understandings of the haptic sublime ...................................................... 39 2.4 Avoiding the ‘Mark Twain Method’: Achieving recognition ........................................... 41 2.5 Women only: The land of pure delight ........................................................................... 45 2.6 High altitude climbing: Women establish the rules to legitimacy .................................. 50 2.7 Public sharing of emotion, sentient expression and pushing boundaries ...................... 53 5 6 2.8 Solo and without oxygen: Consequences of gender ...................................................... 54 2.9 Motherhood ................................................................................................................... 55 2.10 Representation in the twenty first century: Leadership and training ........................... 56 2.11 Clients and softer skills ................................................................................................. 59 2.12 Twenty-first century generation: Changing attitudes................................................... 62 2.13 Conclusion .................................................................................................................... 63 CHAPTER THREE: ‘NO MAN’S LAND’: GENDER, AFFECT AND MOUNTAINEERING .................... 64 3.1 Female participation in mountaineering ........................................................................ 64 3.1.1 Gender and mountain leadership ............................................................................ 66 3.1.2 Feminist research in sport and leisure .................................................................... 67 3.1.3 Researching emotion, sensoria and affect in extreme sport ................................... 68 3.1.4 Women and serious leisure ..................................................................................... 70 3.1.5 Mountaineering: Authenticity, identity and subcultures ........................................ 71 3.2 Philosophical approaches to gender and difference in sport ......................................... 73 3.2.1 The situated nature of being other: Boundaries as a place to play ......................... 75 3.2.2 A starting point not a standpoint ............................................................................ 76 3.2.3 Feminist scholarship ................................................................................................ 77 3.2.4 Gendered bodies, sex and difference .......................................................................... 80 3.2.5 Derrida: Difference and indeterminacy ................................................................... 81 3.3 Affect as method: Understanding how female mountaineers feel and act as gendered subjects ................................................................................................................................ 85 3.3.1 Mountaineering as a wilful act of resistance: Enacting and resisting masculinities and femininities through risk-taking ................................................................................ 87 3.3.2 A methodology .......................................................................................................