Area Notes 1999 EDITED by JOSE LUIS BERMUDEZ
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Climbing the Sea Annual Report
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG MARCH/APRIL 2015 • VOLUME 109 • NO. 2 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE Annual Report 2014 PAGE 3 Climbing the Sea sailing PAGE 23 tableofcontents Mar/Apr 2015 » Volume 109 » Number 2 The Mountaineers enriches lives and communities by helping people explore, conserve, learn about and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Features 3 Breakthrough The Mountaineers Annual Report 2014 23 Climbing the Sea a sailing experience 28 Sea Kayaking 23 a sport for everyone 30 National Trails Day celebrating the trails we love Columns 22 SUMMIT Savvy Guess that peak 29 MEMbER HIGHLIGHT Masako Nair 32 Nature’S WAy Western Bluebirds 34 RETRO REWIND Fred Beckey 36 PEAK FITNESS 30 Back-to-Backs Discover The Mountaineers Mountaineer magazine would like to thank The Mountaineers If you are thinking of joining — or have joined and aren’t sure where Foundation for its financial assistance. The Foundation operates to start — why not set a date to Meet The Mountaineers? Check the as a separate organization from The Mountaineers, which has received about one-third of the Foundation’s gifts to various Branching Out section of the magazine for times and locations of nonprofit organizations. informational meetings at each of our seven branches. Mountaineer uses: CLEAR on the cover: Lori Stamper learning to sail. Sailing story on page 23. photographer: Alan Vogt AREA 2 the mountaineer magazine mar/apr 2015 THE MOUNTAINEERS ANNUAL REPORT 2014 FROM THE BOARD PRESIDENT Without individuals who appreciate the natural world and actively champion its preservation, we wouldn’t have the nearly 110 million acres of wilderness areas that we enjoy today. -
AIGUILLES and DOLOMITES. by E. Thomas
268 Aiguilles and Dolomites . • AIGUILLES AND DoLOMITES. BY EUSTACE THOMAS. (Read before the Alpine Club, April 4, 1933.) T is four years since an article of mine entitled '· Six Years and the Four Thousanders,' an extension of a list furnished by Captain Farrar, appeared in the ALPINE JOURNAL ; 1 this gave a catalogue of Alpine peaks of a height of 4000 metres or over. My friends take a rather malicious delight in suggesting minor points and perhaps gendarmes on ridges to be added, and it is rather difficult to decide what ought or ought not to be included. Since that date, however, a list has appeared .in La JYlontagne under the signature of our member, Jean Chaubert; and with this I am in agreement. The principal addition was that of the Aiguilles du Diable, which I announced my intention of adding to the bag in my former paper. · In 1929 and 1930 the .Aiguilles du Diable were the principal objects of my desires, but were not in a fit state during my stay in the Alps those years. In 1930 I actually vvent to Chamonix from England for a second time in September ; but the weather changed for the wor$e on my arrival. All other points of Chaubert's list were gathered in however and, where there was any doubt, mountains were revisited. The original list was altered as follows .: Gran Paradiso, two points ; Massif of Mont Blanc two points on the Dome du Gouter were added, Pointe Bayeux and Poi1~te Bravais ; (:}ran des J orasses . Pointe Young was added; Grand Combin completely traversed to include five summits ; Breithorn completely traversed to include five summits; Jungfrau Group Wengern Jungfrau added. -
TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette Liste Donne Un Exemple Des Tarifs À La Course « Classique »
TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette liste donne un exemple des tarifs à la course « classique ». Mais en fonction des conditions (nuit en refuge, succession de courses) ils peuvent être revus à la hausse ou à la baisse Bassins Argentière-Trient Aiguille d'Argentière Flèche Rousse 780€ Arête du Génépi (avec une autre course depuis le refuge) 380€ Arête du Raboin 380€ Couloir en Y 780€ Plateau inf. / Dièdre central 400€ Voie normale 780€ Aiguille du Chardonnet Arête Forbes 780€ Face Nord 780€ Aiguille Dorées Arête sud 780€ Traversée 960€ Aiguille de la Purtscheller Arête Sud (2 jours engagement) 760€ Aiguille du Tour Arête de la Table (2 jours engagement) 760€ Couloir de la Table(2 jours engagement) 760€ Voie Normale (depuis le refuge) et école de glace 760€ Le Minaret éperon SE 870€ Les Ecandies en traversée 500€ Dolent (Mont) Arête Gallet 810€ Tête Blanche ou Petite Fourche (depuis le refuge) 600€ Traversée refuge Albert 1er- Champex (depuis le refuge) 600€ Chaîne des Drus au Triolet Aiguille de la Nonne, traversée 760€ Aiguille de l'Evèque Traversée Nonne/Evèque 800€ Voie normale 760€ Moine (Aig. du) Arête Sud (1px) 760€ Arête Sud intégrale 820€ Voie normale 760€ Verte (Aig.) Arête du Moine Fourchette 1 Arête des Grands Montets Fourchette 3 Couloir Whymper Fourchette 1 Courtes (Les) Pente NE 860€ En traversée 860€ trav + Ravanel-Mummery 1000€ Droites (Les) Arête Est 1000€ Drus (Aig. des) En traversée Fourchette 1 Voies du pilier Sud Fourchette 3 Bassins Leschaux - Géant Aiguille de Rochefort arête depuis Helbronner A/R 500€ Aiguille de -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Grandeur Nature Haute-Savoie Full-Scale Grandeur Nature Natural Grandeur
Haute-Savoie grandeur nature Haute-Savoie full-scale grandeur nature natural grandeur Photographies DAVID MACHET Photographies David Machet Haute-Savoie Grandeur Nature Photographies David Machet Textes Laurent Gannaz 3 Introduction Il faut avoir pris la mesure de ses sentiers, s’être balancé sur soi-même To enter into the true spirit of Haute-Savoie and appreciate the diversity pour mieux y imprimer son pas. Avoir fait la conquête de sommets of its beauty one needs to immerse oneself on its numerous and varied inutiles. Il faut avoir flotté sur un lac d’huile au petit matin, avoir trails: To conquer its summits without asking the question why. To float soufflé, doigts gourds de givre, sur la braise d’un vieux fourneau, delicately on a tranquil lake in early morning. To blow on frost nipped dans un refuge un temps délaissé. Il faut s’être penché sur un fromage fingers over the hot cinders of an old oven in an out of Season Mountain fermier AOC, l’avoir dégusté comme un succulent poème. Il faut s’être hut. To savor the subtle flavours of a locally made cheese from a nearby repu d’un crépuscule sur le toit de l’Europe. Avoir avalé les cols à la mountain farm. To humbly watch the setting sun on Europe’s’ highest force du mollet. Avoir défriché des chemins de traverse, contemporains rooftop. To cycle over the many mountain cols. To explore forgotten and et oubliés… modern day pathways… La Haute-Savoie, terre bénie, dotée de tant d’atours que le regard The Haute-Savoie region is a veritable sacred land with an overwhelming pourrait s’y noyer, ne demande qu’à être retrouvée, partagée et contrast of scenery, just waiting to be discovered, shared and honored. -
Ten Years of Winter: the Cold Decade and Environmental
TEN YEARS OF WINTER: THE COLD DECADE AND ENVIRONMENTAL CONSCIOUSNESS IN THE EARLY 19 TH CENTURY by MICHAEL SEAN MUNGER A DISSERTATION Presented to the Department of History and the Graduate School of the University of Oregon in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy June 2017 DISSERTATION APPROVAL PAGE Student: Michael Sean Munger Title: Ten Years of Winter: The Cold Decade and Environmental Consciousness in the Early 19 th Century This dissertation has been accepted and approved in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Doctor of Philosophy degree in the Department of History by: Matthew Dennis Chair Lindsay Braun Core Member Marsha Weisiger Core Member Mark Carey Institutional Representative and Scott L. Pratt Dean of the Graduate School Original approval signatures are on file with the University of Oregon Graduate School. Degree awarded June 2017 ii © 2017 Michael Sean Munger iii DISSERTATION ABSTRACT Michael Sean Munger Doctor of Philosophy Department of History June 2017 Title: Ten Years of Winter: The Cold Decade and Environmental Consciousness in the Early 19 th Century Two volcanic eruptions in 1809 and 1815 shrouded the earth in sulfur dioxide and triggered a series of weather and climate anomalies manifesting themselves between 1810 and 1819, a period that scientists have termed the “Cold Decade.” People who lived during the Cold Decade appreciated its anomalies through direct experience, and they employed a number of cognitive and analytical tools to try to construct the environmental worlds in which they lived. Environmental consciousness in the early 19 th century commonly operated on two interrelated layers. -
Alpejskie 4-Tysięczniki
Alpejskie 4-tysięczniki Po zdobyciu kilku 4-ro tysięczników przyszło mi do głowy zrobienie listy (a jakże) i kompletowanie pozostałych szczytów. Na stronie Pettera znalazłem potrzebne informacje. W Alpach jest 51 szczytów o wysokości bezwzględnej powyżej 4000 metrów i wybitności nie mniejszej niż 100 metrów, czyli takich, które pasują do definicji „prawdziwej” góry. W 1994 roku UIAA ogłosiła oficjalną listę aż 82 szczytów czterotysięcznych i te dodatkowe 31 są zamieszczone na poniższej liście jako szczyty „nie ujęte w rankingu” (NR). Istnieje wiele punktów spornych na tej liście. Znajdują się na niej wierzchołki o wybitności zaledwie kilkumetrowej, podczas gdy pominięte są na niej wierzchołki o wybitności kilkudziesięciometrowej. Nie planuję wdawać się w dyskusję co jest „prawdziwą” górą a co nią nie jest. Podobnie jak przy innych projektach, tak i tu chodzi przecież o to, by być w ruchu. Kolorem zielonym oznaczam szczyty przeze mnie zdobyte, natomiast kolorem żółtym te, z którymi żadna próba do tej pory się nie powiodła. Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 01 Mont Blanc 4810 4697 PD 02 Dufourspitze 4634 2165 PD 03 Zumsteinspitze 4563 111 F 04 Signalkuppe 4556 102 F 05 Dom 4545 1018 PD 06 Liskamm (east) 4527 376 AD 07 Weisshorn 4505 1055 AD Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 08 Täschhorn 4490 209 AD 09 Matterhorn 4478 1164 AD- 10 Mont Maudit 4465 162 PD 11 Parrotspitze 4436 136 PD 12 Dent Blanche 4356 897 AD 13 Nadelhorn 4327 206 PD 14 Grand Combin 4314 1517 PD+ 15 Finsteraarhorn 4273 2108 PD 16 Mont Blanc du Tacul 4247 -
Alpine Club Notes
Alpine Club Notes OFFICERS AND COMMITTEE FOR 1997 PRESIDENT . Sir Christian Bonington CBE VICE PRESIDENTS . J GRHarding LN Griffin HONORARY SECRETARy . DJ Lovatt HONORARY TREASURER . AL Robinson HONORARY LIBRARIAN .. DJ Lovatt HONORARY EDITOR . Mrs J Merz COMMITTEE ELECTIVE MEMBERS E Douglas Col MH Kefford PJ Knott WH O'Connor K Phillips DD Clark-Lowes BJ Murphy WJ Powell DW Walker EXTRA COMMITTEE MEMBERS M JEsten GC Holden OFFICE BEARERS LIBRARIAN EMERITUS '" . R Lawford HONORARY ARCHIVIST . Miss L Gollancz HONORARY KEEPER OF THE CLUB'S PICTURES P Mallalieu HONORARY KEEPER OF THE CLUB'S ARTEFACTS .. R Lawford CHAIRMAN OF THE FINANCE COMMITTEE RFMorgan CHAIRMAN OF THE GUIDEBOOKS EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION BOARD .. LN Griffin CHAIRMAN OF THE HOUSE COMMITTEE .. MH Johnston CHAIRMAN OF THE LIBRARY COUNCIL . GC Band CHAIRMAN OF THE MEMBERSHIP COMMITTEE MWFletcher ASSISTANT EDITORS OF THE Alpine Journal .. JL Bermudez GW Templeman 364 ALPINE CLUB NOTES 365 ASSISTANT HONORARY SECRETARIES: ANNUAL WINTER DINNER MH Johnston BMC LIAISON . P Wickens LECTURES. E Douglas MEETS . PJ Knott MEMBERSHIP . MW Fletcher TRUSTEES ... MF Baker JGR Harding S N Beare HONORARY SOLICITOR .. PG C Sanders AUDITORS AM Dowler Russell New ALPINE CLIMBING GROUP PRESIDENT D Wilkinson HONORARY SECRETARy .. RA Ruddle AC GENERAL AND INFORMAL MEETINGS 1996 16 January General Meeting: Mick Fowler, The North-East Pillar of Taweche 23 January Val d'Aosta evening: Mont Blanc 30 January Informal Meeting: Mike Binnie, Two Years in the Hindu Kush 13 February General Meeting: David Hamilton, -
TARIF Des Courses 2009 Pour
Tarif des courses 2009 en engagement privé de la Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. Traditionnelle par excellence, cette formule est la plus souple pour parcourir la haute montagne. En rapport avec votre niveau et les conditions du moment, votre guide vous proposera un programme de courses adapté. Le tarif d’une course est établi, en fonction de la longueur, la difficulté et surtout l’engagement de la course, pour 1 personne ou 2 personnes suivant l’itinéraire. Le tarif est l’honoraire du guide il ne comprend pas les frais de refuges ou de remontées mécaniques. Difficulté : En face de chaque course un nombre d’étoiles allant de 0 à 5 étoiles est mis pour «coter» la course par rapport à sa difficulté pure (technique, longueur et engagement).Cette difficulté peut bien-sur variée suivant les conditions. Le nombre d’étoiles n’a en aucun cas un rapport avec l’intérêt et la beauté de la course. LES GRANDES COURSES Les grandes courses sont un rêve pour tous et sont différentes pour chacun ! Tout est fonction de son niveau, ses goûts, ses aspirations… Le tarif d’une course est fonction de sa longueur, sa difficulté technique et de son engagement. Plus la course est «importante», plus ces paramètres varient donc passé un certain niveau de course, une fourchette est donnée pour avoir un ordre de grandeur. Mais le tarif «final» ne pourra être décidé que par le guide après la course, face aux conditions rencontrées, le temps mis… Fourchette 1 . …. De 900 à 1200 euros Fourchette 2 . .. De 1100 à 1400 euros Fourchette 3 . -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
Notes 1971 the Alps Colin Taytor
Notes 1971 The Alps Colin Taytor Summary The summer season of 1971 must be one of the best on record. In the Western Alps the winter snowfall was late and less than usual, so the big classic faces came into condition early and remained in good condition for much of the season, in spite of several quite big storms in late July and August. A solo first ascent and half a dozen solo ascents of major routes were made by British climbers. British parties also made ascents of important routes such as the North-west faces of the Olan and the Ailefroide in the Dauphine, the Brouillard Pillars, the Grand Pilier d'Angle, the Central Pillar of Freney and the Droites North face in the Mont Blanc region, and of the Eiger and the Matterhorn North faces. Many other British parties made notable ascents and the notes below, while not complete, are confined mainly to their achievements. Details of ascents by continental climbers can be found in Alpine Climbing and in the continental journals, particularly La Montagne and Alpinismus. I am grateful particularly to Doug Scott, the Editor of Alpine Climbing and to Ken Wilson, the Editor of Mountain for collecting much of the information on which these notes are based, and also to many others who sent in information about their routes. DAUPHINE Probably more English parties climbed in the Dauphine in the summer of 1971 than ever before. Weather conditions were good, particularly during July, although several big storms occurred in August. As a result, many of the big routes were in condition. -
Hiking Withdogs
www.wta.org April 2008 » Washington Trails On Trail « Hiking withDogs Photo by “Sadie’s Driver” Dogs make some of the finest hiking companions. Sadie hikes with her “driver” on the Yellow Aster Butte Trail. Hiking with Your Best Buddy The Northwest is blessed with so many but sometimes that pushed her to the limits. places to venture in the outdoors—no matter Like the time I decided to do a trail run to the what your skill level. And, for some, it’s so top of Mount Dickerman in August. Not real much more enjoyable when you have a four- smart. She collapsed about a mile from the car legged companion to join you. The dogs I have on our way down. The combination of heat and seen on the trail seem so happy to be out roam- insufficient water took its toll. We made it back ing with their humans. fine, but I learned a lesson. Having hiked for a number of years all Some dogs are comfortable rock hopping around Washington and areas in British Colum- and scrambling, but many are not. Sadie could bia, my greatest enjoyment has been with my climb higher and faster than I could, but I al- Sadie’s buddy Sadie. This was a she-devil golden re- ways worried about what would happen when triever who, as a puppy, was a terror! But from she got to the top. Fortunately Sadie was quite Driver Sadie’s Driver lives her very first trip, being on the trail brought out confident on her feet and was cautious enough her best.