meals whilst there are also a number of cafes and bars perfect for grabbing a obsessively alike - we haven’t measured ourselves, but apparently they must has some 22 lines (some of which run seasonally) including countless lines ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND sandwich and that last espresso/Campari of your trip to Venice.QVia Galileo be 10.87m long and constructed using eight specific woods. So the question along the Canal Grande and connections with practically all of Venice’s sur- Printed Grafokom All you need to know about Galilei 30/1, Tessera-Venezia, tel. +39 041 260 9260, www.veniceairport.it. is not which gondola to choose, but what you want to see. Tours can be pre- rounding islands such as Murano, famous for its blown glass. Published three times per year booked or you can negotiate a personalised itinerary with your gondolier - we Single use tickets start from €7 for 60 minutes, while tourist travel cards ESSENTIAL Map Creative Commons / ShareAlike 3.0 License where to sleep, eat, drink, Airports love exploring the narrow back canals where Venice’s hidden beauty can be offer a much better value for most visitors, allowing unlimited travel for CITY G UIDES Gondola seen. The other big question, is of course, how much you are willing to spend. periods from 12 hours to 7 days. Editorial Venice Marco Polo Airport Managing editor Yuri Barron Venice Marco Polo is one of Italy’s main airports, serviced by world class The gondola is surely the most famous symbol of Venice. Perfectly de- The official minimum fare is €80 per gondola (for up to 6 persons) for 40 min- Note: remember to stamp your ticket in the yellow machine before get- ESSENTIAL visit and enjoy signed for shunting around the shallows of the Venetian lagoon and the utes. Prices fluctuate seasonally and can also depend on ones haggling skills, ting on the vaporetto.Qwww.actv.it Writers John Bills, Will Dunn, James Cosier, Yuri Barron airlines from Emirates to Alitalia - the national carrier, flights are available CITY G UIDES Research Florence Ménard to over 60 international and domestic destinations. Marco Polo is also city’s narrow waterways, these exquisite handcrafted vessels have been a though in general group tours during the day are the cheapest option. Publisher IQBATOR Ltd. mainstay of Venetian life and culture for centuries. The gondola may have For those on tight budgets the seven Traghetto ‘gondola ferries’, which sim- Italy In Your Pocket Layout & Design Radomir Lazović popular with budget travellers with Easyjet offering numerous domestic Water Taxis Consulting Craig Turp and European connections. Marco Polo airport is just across the lagoon lost its place as the workhorse of Venice, though fleets of them continue ply shuttle back and forth across the Grand Canal, are a great way to have a Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia to punt tourists around and come the first Sunday in September they race gondola trip very cheaply (€2) even if it lasts barely a minute. One of the best ways to see Venice is from the water, and while gondolas Tel. +39 328 083 1957, +386 30 316 602 Photos Shutterstock, Flikr, Wikimedia Commons from the floating city with water taxis and waterbuses shuttling back and Cover photo Sonsam/Shuterstock forth between Venice and the airport. Regular taxis and buses also con- along the Grand Canal in the classic Regata Storica. may be the traditional favourite (and also the priciest option) the stunning [email protected] nect the airport with Venice and Mestre. Skippered by the proud (occasionally arrogant), stripped shirt wearing gon- fleets of luxury wooden water taxis have always taken our fancy (and are doliers, today’s gondolas are basically just for tourists and yes they can cost an Vaporetto significantly less pricey). Water taxis don’t just offer luxury airport transfers Director Sales & Operations Management There are a wide range of shops at the airport offering airport standards from Eva Trinca, Niko Slavnic perfume and electronics to international newspapers whilst the regional deli- arm and a leg to ride in (though there are ways to keep costs down) however Vaporetto or waterbuses are the way the masses travel in Venice, whilst from Marco Polo, they also shuttle visitors around Venice and between its Niko Slavnic M.Sc., [email protected] Online we must admit that a ride in a gondola is a quintessential Venetian experi- they are not quite as romantic as a gondola they are a fraction of the cost islands, whilst a water taxi guided tour of the sights is a great way to experi- +39 328 083 1957 cacies on offer including excellent local wines and grappa make for excellent [email protected] gifts. Foodwise there are a couple of places offering quick pizza and pasta ence and great way to explore this wondrous city. The gondolas themselves are and are a great way to get around and see Venice. The vaporetto network ence the Most Serene Republic.

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gallerieaccademia.org, www.gallerieaccademia.org. gallerieaccademia.org,

Flickr/archer10 Trio Flickr/Torcello ice’s version of the Champs-Elysées, and while the Grand Canal is indeed indeed is Canal Grand the while and Champs-Elysées, the of version ice’s whom it was believed were responsible for spreading the plague. Fun! Nowadays, Nowadays, Fun! plague. the spreading for responsible were believed was it whom D-3. world. the in bridges photographed and famous most Q

The weatherbeaten façade of the Doge’s Palace on Piazzetta San Marco, Marco, San Piazzetta on Palace Doge’s the of façade weatherbeaten The Island, Giudecca from seen as Salute della Maria Santa di Basilica The

C-4/5, Campo della Carità 1050, tel. +39 041 520 0345, info@ 0345, 520 041 +39 tel. 1050, Carità della Campo C-4/5, line. Q - Ven as described often is thoroughfare aquatic famous most world’s The the Middle Ages, this was one of the more reputable methods of killing vampires, vampires, killing of methods reputable more the of one was this Ages, Middle the the proverbial last laugh, as his magnum opus went on to become one the the one become to on went opus magnum his as laugh, last proverbial the

of 300, so head there before noon for the best chance of not waiting in in waiting not of chance best the for noon before there head so 300, of which opened in 2008. in opened which when the skull of a woman was discovered with a brick shoved into her jaw. During During jaw. her into shoved brick a with discovered was woman a of skull the when culed by several of his contemporaries. Of course it was da Ponte who got got who Ponte da was it course Of contemporaries. his of several by culed

cademia and Ponte dell’Accademia). Beware entries are limited to a total total a to limited are entries Beware dell’Accademia). Ponte and cademia of four - the last of which was the controversial Ponte della Constitzione, Constitzione, della Ponte controversial the was which of last the - four of was summarily left here to perish. The island was back in the headlines in 2005, 2005, in headlines the in back was island The perish. to here left summarily was - ridi openly and time, the at audacious quite considered was design whose

- (Ac bear still bridge nearby a and stop Vaporetto the which of name the (Ponte di Rialto) until the 19th century, and today there are still only a total total a only still are there today and century, 19th the until Rialto) di (Ponte ships arriving in Venice from the east, and anyone suspected of carrying the plague plague the carrying of suspected anyone and east, the from Venice in arriving ships the little known, but aptly named, Venetian architect Antonio da Ponte, Ponte, da Antonio architect Venetian named, aptly but known, little the

Scuola della Carità, it was once the gallery of the art academy of Venice, Venice, of academy art the of gallery the once was it Carità, della Scuola to the city’s water-centric mentality it was only crossed by a single bridge bridge single a by crossed only was it mentality water-centric city’s the to Lazzaretto Nuovo (Italian for ‘new quarantine’) was converted into a plague stop for for stop plague a into converted was quarantine’) ‘new for (Italian Nuovo Lazzaretto other than Michelangelo himself. However, the commission was won by by won was commission the However, himself. Michelangelo than other

undoubtedly draws the biggest crowds. Set in the old bulding of the the of bulding old the in Set crowds. biggest the draws undoubtedly San Marco. Its width varies between 30 and 90 metres, and in a testament testament a in and metres, 90 and 30 between varies width Its Marco. San What started out as a peaceful monastic centre would become a hellhole. In 1468, 1468, In hellhole. a become would centre monastic peaceful a as out started What from many of the top Italian architects of the period, including the none none the including period, the of architects Italian top the of many from

House of Levi), and the Drawing of Vitruvian Man by Leonardo Da Vinci Vinci Da Leonardo by Man Vitruvian of Drawing the and Levi), of House from Santa Lucia train station to the Giudecca Canal and the edge of Piazza Piazza of edge the and Canal Giudecca the to station train Lucia Santa from Venice f o s ire mp Va e h t and o v uo N azzaretto L tion of a more resilient stone bridge was called for, and received proposals proposals received and for, called was bridge stone resilient more a of tion

Carpaccio, Giorgioni (The Tempest) and Paulo Veronese (Feast in the the in (Feast Veronese Paulo and Tempest) (The Giorgioni Carpaccio, two halves on either side of a 3.8km long inverted S-shape, which leads leads which S-shape, inverted long 3.8km a of side either on halves two - construc the that decided finally authorities local century, mid-16th the In

more than 20 medium sized rooms with works from Bellini, Canaletto, Canaletto, Bellini, from works with rooms sized medium 20 than more the lagoon, the Grand Canal divides the main island of Venice roughly into into roughly Venice of island main the divides Canal Grand the lagoon, the products, as well as its yellow ‘S’ shaped biscuits. Be sure to try them! try to sure Be biscuits. shaped ‘S’ yellow its as well as products, collapsing under the weight of spectators watching a boat regatta. boat a watching spectators of weight the under collapsing

museum collection of paintings from numerous big names. There are are There names. big numerous from paintings of collection museum Following the path carved out by an ancient river that once flowed into into flowed once that river ancient an by out carved path the Following government. The island has also always been famous for its handmade lace lace handmade its for famous been always also has island The government. great fire of 1514 that engulfed the whole Rialto neighbourhood, and twice twice and neighbourhood, Rialto whole the engulfed that 1514 of fire great

Rennaissance art, the Gallerie dell’Accademia housing a pre-19th century century pre-19th a housing dell’Accademia Gallerie the art, Rennaissance anal C rand G ily’s quarters ended, the choice of colours is now strictly controlled by the the by controlled strictly now is colours of choice the ended, quarters ily’s bridge was destroyed and rebuilt no less than three times - once by the the by once - times three than less no rebuilt and destroyed was bridge

The gallery you should visit for a broad overview of Venetian and Italian Italian and Venetian of overview broad a for visit should you gallery The - fam each where show to used Originally paradise. photographer’s a is ally wooden bridge in 1255. However, in the three centuries that followed, the the followed, that centuries three the in However, 1255. in bridge wooden

ia m ccade A dell’ allerie G d’Oro €2, Treasury €3, Bell Tower €8. Tower Bell €3, Treasury €2, d’Oro - re Burano explosions. colour of intense most the resembling place whole end of 12th century, which was shortly upgraded to a more permanent permanent more a to upgraded shortly was which century, 12th of end

09:00-21:00 in summer. Admission to basilica free, museum €5, Pala Pala €5, museum free, basilica to Admission summer. in 09:00-21:00 some 40 minutes from Venice by boat is one bright house after another, the the another, after house bright one is boat by Venice from minutes 40 some bridge’s first incarnation was as a floating pontoon structure built at the the at built structure pontoon floating a as was incarnation first bridge’s lleries a G & useums M

Bell Tower open 09:00-15:45 in winter, 09:00-19:00 in Oct and spring, spring, and Oct in 09:00-19:00 winter, in 09:00-15:45 open Tower Bell might just be the very definition of the term. This residential archipelago archipelago residential This term. the of definition very the be just might immediate area (which itself is derived from the Italian for ‘high bank’), the the bank’), ‘high for Italian the from derived is itself (which area immediate

basilicasanmarco.it. Open 09:45-17:00, Sun and holidays 14:00-16:00, 14:00-16:00, holidays and Sun 09:45-17:00, Open basilicasanmarco.it. Whilst much of Venice itself could be considered hugely photogenic, Burano Burano photogenic, hugely considered be could itself Venice of much Whilst name from the the historical financial and commercial district found in its its in found district commercial and financial historical the the from name

523 7565, [email protected], www.jvenice.org. [email protected], 7565, 523 EXIT PALMANOVA EXIT EXIT PALMANOVA EXIT E-4, San Marco 328, tel. +39 041 2708311, www. 2708311, 041 +39 tel. 328, Marco San E-4, Gold. of Church the is Burano four spans that cross the nearly 4km length of the Grand Canal. Taking its its Taking Canal. Grand the of length 4km nearly the cross that spans four Q

C-1, tel. +39 041 041 +39 tel. C-1, 1222. Cannaregio at point info the visit or Venice, in Q

fondazionesanservolo.it, www.fondazionesanservolo.it. fondazionesanservolo.it,

precious gems. All things considered, it’s not hard to see why it’s nickname nickname it’s why see to hard not it’s considered, things All gems. precious One of Venice’s most iconic sights, the Rialto bridge is also one of only only of one also is bridge Rialto the sights, iconic most Venice’s of One

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atmosphere. See the very infomative website of the Jewish Community Community Jewish the of website infomative very the See atmosphere. FROM VENICE TO TRIESTE TO VENICE FROM FROM VENICE TO TRIESTE TO VENICE FROM or so. or Isola di San Servolo, tel. +39 041 2765451/+39 041 5267871, info@ 5267871, 041 2765451/+39 041 +39 tel. Servolo, San di Isola Q Cloth), which depicts the story of St Mark and is encrusted with nearly 2000 2000 nearly with encrusted is and Mark St of story the depicts which Cloth), ialto R di Ponte

is celebrated every Saturday here - arrive early to experience the lively lively the experience to early arrive - here Saturday every celebrated is

the 10-minute journey here from the San Zaccaria pier near San Marco every hour hour every Marco San near pier Zaccaria San the from here journey 10-minute the sive single work is the high altarpiece (the so-called Pala d’Oro or Golden Golden or d’Oro Pala so-called (the altarpiece high the is work single sive

A4 HIGHWAY HIGHWAY HIGHWAY A4 A4

museum of Jewish art. Shabbat, the seventh day of the Jewish calendar, calendar, Jewish the of day seventh the Shabbat, art. Jewish of museum

this is one of Venice’s most macabre yet captivating sights. Vaporetto 20 makes makes 20 Vaporetto sights. captivating yet macabre most Venice’s of one is this - impres most the while mosaics, gold of metres square 8000 astonishing 041 786 511, www.teatrolafenice.it. 511, 786 041 E-4. Lion of Venice and St Theodore, the city’s original patron saint. patron original city’s the Theodore, St and Venice of Lion Q

of Jewish life in the city, with five synagogues still standing, as well as a a as well as standing, still synagogues five with city, the in life Jewish of

(one of which is cheerily titled ‘the Sick’) and containing a photo album of patients, patients, of album photo a containing and Sick’) ‘the titled cheerily is which of (one the Church of the Holy Apostle in Istanbul. The ceilings are covered with an an with covered are ceilings The Istanbul. in Apostle Holy the of Church the D-4, Campo San Fantin 1965, tel. +39 +39 tel. 1965, Fantin San Campo D-4, Euro. every worth is interior stunning granite columns topped by two greatly important symbols: the winged winged the symbols: important greatly two by topped columns granite Q

to the large number of foundries in the area. Today, the area is the centre centre the is area the Today, area. the in foundries of number large the to until 1978. It has been open as a museum since 2006. Divided into nine sections sections nine into Divided 2006. since museum a as open been has It 1978. until century, its current form follows the layout of a Greek cross and is based on on based is and cross Greek a of layout the follows form current its century, from 9:30 to 18:30 every day for tours, costing €9 with discounts for students. The The students. for discounts with €9 costing tours, for day every 18:30 to 9:30 from Biblioteca Marciana (one of Italy’s most important libraries), and two large large two and libraries), important most Italy’s of (one Marciana Biblioteca

which translates rather unflatteringly as ‘slag’ or ‘waste’, a reference reference a ‘waste’, or ‘slag’ as unflatteringly rather translates which , geto ‘Island of the Mad’ by serving as the official mental asylum for Venice from 1725 1725 from Venice for asylum mental official the as serving by Mad’ the of ‘Island the eastern edge of its namesake square. Dating from the end of the 11th 11th the of end the from Dating square. namesake its of edge eastern the plete without a trip to the opera? If you can’t make a show, the theatre is open open is theatre the show, a make can’t you If opera? the to trip a without plete many points of interest as its larger sibling, including the Doge’s Palace, the the Palace, Doge’s the including sibling, larger its as interest of points many

very word ‘ghetto’ that we know today came from the Venetian word word Venetian the from came today know we that ‘ghetto’ word very

fascinating experience. San Servolo Island earned the unflattering nickname the the nickname unflattering the earned Island Servolo San experience. fascinating inside and out, with its trademark domes and golden mosaics dominating dominating mosaics golden and domes trademark its with out, and inside

- com is Italy to visit what And Europe. in theatres famous most the of one as tion by the diminutive title Piazzetta San Marco, but it does have claim to just as as just to claim have does it but Marco, San Piazzetta title diminutive the by

09:00 - 12:00, 15:00-17:30. 12:00, - 09:00

FROM 10 AM TO 8 PM. 8 TO AM 10 FROM FROM 10 AM TO 8 PM. 8 TO AM 10 FROM

the Jewish population of Venice lived during the Venetian Republic. The The Republic. Venetian the during lived Venice of population Jewish the

an afternoon while on holiday in Venice, but there’s no denying it can be a hugely hugely a be can it denying no there’s but Venice, in holiday on while afternoon an Of course history aside, the basilica itself is truly a sight to behold both both behold to sight a truly is itself basilica the aside, history course Of - reputa its hinder couldn’t 1996 and 1836 in Fires history. two-century than more The smaller lagoon-facing square to the southwest may be officially known known officially be may southwest the to square lagoon-facing smaller The

D-5, Fondamenta Salute, tel. +39 041 241 1018. Open Open 1018. 241 041 +39 tel. Salute, Fondamenta D-5, stone sculptures. stone

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Venice. Founded in 1516 in an area of Canneregio district, this is where where is this district, Canneregio of area an in 1516 in Founded Venice.

Okay, so an insane asylum might not sound like the most enjoyable place to spend spend to place enjoyable most the like sound not might asylum insane an so Okay,

ries, it’s hard to argue with the results. the with argue to hard it’s ries, nix) has quite literally risen from the flames on two separate occasions during its its during occasions separate two on flames the from risen literally quite has nix) the personal orders of the Little Corporal himself. Corporal Little the of orders personal the

ALWAYS OPEN, OPEN, ALWAYS ALWAYS

art by luminaries such as Tintoretto and Titian, as well as many exquisite exquisite many as well as Titian, and Tintoretto as such luminaries by art

Believe it or not, the first ghetto in recorded history can be found in in found be can history recorded in ghetto first the not, or it Believe

m ylu As ane s n I olo v Ser San - centu nine following the in transpired what given And apostles. original the - Phoe (the Fenice La world? entire the in theatre named aptly more a there Is square to make room for what is now known as the Napoleonic Wing, on on Wing, Napoleonic the as known now is what for room make to square

Marco, the interior here is much more austere, but it is home to works of of works to home is it but austere, more much is here interior the Marco,

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supernatural protection bestowed upon it by possessing the relics of one of of one of relics the possessing by it upon bestowed protection supernatural a Fenice a L eatro T was once again demolished from its position at the western end of the the of end western the at position its from demolished again once was

50 years to complete. In contrast to the bright gold of the Basilica di San San di Basilica the of gold bright the to contrast In complete. to years 50

mente Nuove, or the number 52 from Piazzale Roma. Piazzale from 52 number the or Nuove, mente vinced that the burgeoning Venetian Republic would greatly benefit from the the from benefit greatly would Republic Venetian burgeoning the that vinced built during the 1500s. In 1810, the twice unlucky Church of San Geminiano Geminiano San of Church unlucky twice the 1810, In 1500s. the during built e c Veni ish w Je

on a platform of more than one million wooden piles, taking more than than more taking piles, wooden million one than more of platform a on

- Fonda from 52 or 13 12, number vaporetto taking by archipelago the Visit - con was Doge The heist? holy this for reason The them). finding from agents Marco 1, tel. +39 041 271 5911, [email protected], palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. [email protected], 5911, 271 041 +39 tel. 1, Marco - re and built slowly were south and north the to stand still that buildings

thing on the artist’s agenda. The huge octagonal building was constructed constructed was building octagonal huge The agenda. artist’s the on thing

dragon. We’re skeptical, but you never truly know. truly never you but skeptical, We’re dragon. out of Egypt hidden beneath pork and cabbage (to dissuade Muslim customs customs Muslim dissuade (to cabbage and pork beneath hidden Egypt of out E-4, San San E-4, 1923. since museum a as open been has palace The prisons. the of one ognisable Campanile took its present form in 1514, while the three-story three-story the while 1514, in form present its took Campanile ognisable Q

- some not was subtlety plague, the of ending the celebrate to century 17th

del Santa Maria e San Donato. Legend has it that it houses the bones of a slain slain a of bones the houses it that it has Legend Donato. San e Maria Santa del from their resting place in Alexandria by Venetian merchants and smuggled smuggled and merchants Venetian by Alexandria in place resting their from Casanova, was the first to break this gargantuous bastion of power, escaping from from escaping power, of bastion gargantuous this break to first the was Casanova, - rec instantly The west. the to further much moved and demolished was

www.carnevale.venezia.it. website.

background of perhaps the most photographs and canvasses. Built in the the in Built canvasses. and photographs most the perhaps of background

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only two are open for visitors. The more impressive of the two is the Basilica Basilica the is two the of impressive more The visitors. for open are two only built in 828 to house the remains of Mark the Evangelist, which were stolen stolen were which Evangelist, the Mark of remains the house to 828 in built

chamber, the secret tour opening these up to our modern gaze. The great seducer, seducer, great The gaze. modern our to up these opening tour secret the chamber, when the Rio Baratario canal was filled in and the Church of San Geminiano Geminiano San of Church the and in filled was canal Baratario Rio the when

event and lots of other info can be found well in advance on the official official the on advance in well found be can info other of lots and event

what the locals lovingly refer to as La Salute that finds its way into the the into way its finds that Salute La as to refer lovingly locals the what

FOLLOW US ON: ON: US US FOLLOW FOLLOW

ian near the centre of Murano. There are also a total of four churches, although although churches, four of total a also are There Murano. of centre the near ian be the city’s patron saint. The short version of the story is that it was originally originally was it that is story the of version short The saint. patron city’s the be each room also has its secret passageways, prison cells and there’s even a torture torture a even there’s and cells prison passageways, secret its has also room each The piazza was expanded to its present size during the late 12th century, century, 12th late the during size present its to expanded was piazza The

tre. If you’d like to be part of the fantastic chaos, the full programme of of programme full the chaos, fantastic the of part be to like you’d If tre.

In a city full of classic, instantly recognisable sights, it is the silhouette of of silhouette the is it sights, recognisable instantly classic, of full city a In

- Giustin Palazzo in Museum Glass the as well as them, of couple a visit still can behind both the church’s construction and the way in which St Mark came to to came Mark St which in way the and construction church’s the both behind bridge of sighs, where prisoners would take their last walk to their fate. Of course, course, Of fate. their to walk last their take would prisoners where sighs, of bridge but as Venice’s wealth and power grew so to did its central public space. public central its did to so grew power and wealth Venice’s as but

- cen historic city’s the in pavement of metre square every packing literally

ilica di Santa Maria della Salute della Maria Santa di ilica s Ba

Whilst the majority of the best glass factories today are closed to visitors, you you visitors, to closed are today factories glass best the of majority the Whilst

recognisable sight, most people are likely unaware of the rather roguish history history roguish rather the of unaware likely are people most sight, recognisable turing paintings by Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese, majestic staircases and the grave grave the and staircases majestic Veronese, and Tintoretto Titian, by paintings turing was little more than a grassy patch of land no more than 60 metres in length, length, in metres 60 than more no land of patch grassy a than more little was

crowd into Venice during the two-week long festival each year, almost almost year, each festival long two-week the during Venice into crowd

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making factories in Venice were moved to Murano due to the fear of potential fires. potential of fear the to due Murano to moved were Venice in factories making While the magnificent Byzantine-style Basilica of San Marco is Venice’s most most Venice’s is Marco San of Basilica Byzantine-style magnificent the While - fea ceilings, painted of rooms through 2010) in million one (over visitors of hourdes structed at the beginning of the 9th century, the square that lay in front of it it of front in lay that square the century, 9th the of beginning the at structed

haps too well, as nowadays it’s estimated that some three million visitors visitors million three some that estimated it’s nowadays as well, too haps

until 1291 that it gained its inflated status. It was in that year that all of the glass- the of all that year that in was It status. inflated its gained it that 1291 until ilica di San Marco San di ilica s Ba reveal at least some of the layers of history, the standard tour leading the (literally) (literally) the leading tour standard the history, of layers the of some least at reveal - con first was Marco San of Basilica the When there. arrive to navigate to have

- per worked plan the But growth. economic and tourism spur to way a

archipelagos. The glass has been produced since the 10th century, but it wasn’t wasn’t it but century, 10th the since produced been has glass The archipelagos.

is different. An awesome sight even from an exterior glance, the two possible tours tours possible two the glance, exterior an from even sight awesome An different. is to the labyrinth of narrow streets, passageways and canals that most visitors visitors most that canals and passageways streets, narrow of labyrinth the to

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in public and the tradition all but died out, until being revived in 1979 as as 1979 in revived being until out, died but all tradition the and public in C-4, Campo San Barnaba. San Campo C-4, begin. would fighters the

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the most elite of professions in Venice, making Murano the most famous of Venice’s Venice’s of famous most the Murano making Venice, in professions of elite most the Ducale is a wonderful example of Venetian Gothic architecture, where every column column every where architecture, Gothic Venetian of example wonderful a is Ducale squares. Not overwhelmingly massive in size, it does feel quite large relative relative large quite feel does it size, in massive overwhelmingly Not squares.

stodgy Austrians took control of the city in 1798, masks were forbidden forbidden were masks 1798, in city the of control took Austrians stodgy Dorsoduro. Today four white marble footprints mark the position from where where from position the mark footprints marble white four Today Dorsoduro.

good reason. Murano had a monopoly on glass-making for centuries, and it was was it and centuries, for glass-making on monopoly a had Murano reason. good

treason. The seat of the supreme rulers of the Venetian empire until 1797, Palazzo Palazzo 1797, until empire Venetian the of rulers supreme the of seat The treason. year - Piazza San Marco is truly one of the world’s most famous and impressive impressive and famous most world’s the of one truly is Marco San Piazza - year

ALL YEAR YEAR ALL ALL

Of course all good things come to an end, and when the historically historically the when and end, an to come things good all course Of famous of these bridges was Ponte dei Pugni, near Campo Santa Barnaba in in Barnaba Santa Campo near Pugni, dei Ponte was bridges these of famous

make a point of talking up the Murano glass chandeliers they possess, and with with and possess, they chandeliers glass Murano the up talking of point a make

Marco, for justice was served decidedly brutally here, particularly for the crime of of crime the for particularly here, brutally decidedly served was justice for Marco, Napoleon), ground zero for the millions of tourists that pour into the city each each city the into pour that tourists of millions the for zero ground Napoleon),

the year by the end of the 18th century! 18th the of end the by year the better than the sharpened stick fights that were the norm previously. The most most The previously. norm the were that fights stick sharpened the than better

Take in Venice in all its glory from atop the Campanile, Flickr/Rob Young Flickr/Rob Campanile, the atop from glory its all in Venice in Take

There is barely a single upscale hotel in all of Italy, let alone Venice, that doesn’t doesn’t that Venice, alone let Italy, of all in hotel upscale single a barely is There Don’t be deceived by the beauty of the exterior of the Doge’s Palace, Piazza San San Piazza Palace, Doge’s the of exterior the of beauty the by deceived be Don’t The heart and soul of historic Venice, the drawing room of Europe (according to to (according Europe of room drawing the Venice, historic of soul and heart The

the festivities - reaching the point where masks were worn for up to half half to up for worn were masks where point the reaching - festivities the cuffs weren’t approved by the law enforcement, but they were deemed much much deemed were they but enforcement, law the by approved weren’t cuffs

70 70 TO TO UP UP

This archipelago one mile north of Venice is known worldwide for one thing: glass. glass. thing: one for worldwide known is Venice of north mile one archipelago This Palace) s oge’ D e Th ( ucale D Palazzo Piazza San Marco San Piazza

century later, and as the power of the Venetian Republic grew, so too did did too so grew, Republic Venetian the of power the as and later, century

- fisti These fists. their with issue the settle to order in bridges neighbourhood

Murano

s g Buildin c istori H much fun that it became an annual event. Masks first began appearing a a appearing began first Masks event. annual an became it that fun much be they clashing romantic interests or trade squabbles, men would meet on on meet would men squabbles, trade or interests romantic clashing they be

DISCOUNTS DISCOUNTS

eyes on each time. each on eyes

subsequent public humiliation of the Patriarch of Aquileia, and was so so was and Aquileia, of Patriarch the of humiliation public subsequent In the 17th century, autumn in Venice was fighting season. For many reasons, reasons, many For season. fighting was Venice in autumn century, 17th the In

Santa Maria Elisabetta, leads to the island’s eastern shore, on the Adriatic sea. Adriatic the on shore, eastern island’s the to leads Elisabetta, Maria Santa trips on and down the waterway, and still find new sights to feast one’s one’s feast to sights new find still and waterway, the down and on trips

official beginning of the event, which celebrated the victory over and and over victory the celebrated which event, the of beginning official ) ) s t s Fi f o Bridge e Th ( Pugni dei Ponte

island has a Vaporetto water bus stop, from which the main street, the Gran Viale Viale Gran the street, main the which from stop, bus water Vaporetto a has island traversing the canal. In fact, you could likely spend a lifetime making daily daily making lifetime a spend likely could you fact, In canal. the traversing

at the end of the 11th century, historians point to the year 1162 as the the as 1162 year the to point historians century, 11th the of end the at

latter made famous by Thomas Mann’s Death in Venice. The lagoon side of the the of side lagoon The Venice. in Death Mann’s Thomas by famous made latter ries are the modern day tourists who get to view magnificent façades while while façades magnificent view to get who tourists day modern the are ries

Although written documents first mention Carnival-like parties in Venice Venice in parties Carnival-like mention first documents written Although E-4. yourself. for view sigh-inducing grave, that see to Palace Doge’s the

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Other than that there’s the Grand Hotel Excelsior and Grand Hotel des Bains, the the Bains, des Hotel Grand and Excelsior Hotel Grand the there’s that than Other - rival noble these of winners undisputed the course Of well-represented.

is derived from the Latin phrase meaning ‘farewell to meat’. to ‘farewell meaning phrase Latin the from derived is Campanile are ringing, they shall be granted eternal love and bliss. Take the tour at at tour the Take bliss. and love eternal granted be shall they ringing, are Campanile

Lido is home to the Venice Film Festival, which is held here every September. September. every here held is which Festival, Film Venice the to home is Lido

tions of Byzantine, Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical architectural styles all all styles architectural Neoclassical and Baroque Gothic, Byzantine, of tions

South American rival by over seven centuries, but the very word ‘carnival’ ‘carnival’ word very the but centuries, seven over by rival American South that if a couple kisses on a gondola underneath during sunset while the bells of the the of bells the while sunset during underneath gondola a on kisses couple a if that

a summer retreat from the crowds for a stroll or spot of cycling. Most famously, famously, Most cycling. of spot or stroll a for crowds the from retreat summer a

- interpreta Venetian with homes, ornate and splendid most the build could

tage of a tropical climate, Venice’s Carnival tradition not only outdates its its outdates only not tradition Carnival Venice’s climate, tropical a of tage grills was the last that convicts saw before serving their sentences, and legend has it it has legend and sentences, their serving before saw convicts that last the was grills

STORES. STORES. sandy beaches (some private, some public) and quiet open space, it’s good as as good it’s space, open quiet and public) some private, (some beaches sandy by wealthy families, who often competed amongst each other to see who who see to other each amongst competed often who families, wealthy by

- advan the have may Rio while And Lent. as known Easter before period with the Doge’s Palace. The view of Venice through the bridges windows and stone stone and windows bridges the through Venice of view The Palace. Doge’s the with

ish to refer to public swimming pools sometime in the mid-1930s. With large large With mid-1930s. the in sometime pools swimming public to refer to ish

Many of the residences were built between the 13th and 18th centuries centuries 18th and 13th the between built were residences the of Many

celebration ostensibly held to mark the beginning of the 40-day fasting fasting 40-day the of beginning the mark to held ostensibly celebration Ponte (of Rialto bridge fame), the covered stone structure connects the New Prison Prison New the connects structure stone covered the fame), bridge Rialto (of Ponte

- Brit the by appropriated been been having term the original, the is Lido Venice’s

palaces and other historic buildings found along its path. its along found buildings historic other and palaces

in Brazil each year, Venice’s Carnival is easily the world’s most famous famous most world’s the easily is Carnival Venice’s year, each Brazil in ry from its every surface. Built in 1602 after the design by the nephew of Antonio da da Antonio of nephew the by design the after 1602 in Built surface. every its from ry

90 BRAND BRAND 90 90 ido L the turquoise waters gently splash up against the fronts of the some 200 200 some the of fronts the against up splash gently waters turquoise the

Aside from the outlandish parties that engulf the streets of Rio de Janeiro Janeiro de Rio of streets the engulf that parties outlandish the from Aside - histo emanates still Sighs of Bridge Venice’s Byron, Lord by name peculiar its Given

tions of the canal actually have pavement. Along much of the Grand Canal, Canal, Grand the of much Along pavement. have actually canal the of tions

y esda Tu 04.03 - y rda u at S 15.02 ) hs Sig f o (Bridge iri sp So dei Ponte

+39 041 244 4011, [email protected], lazzarettonuovo.com. [email protected], 4011, 244 041 +39 - sec short only as banks, its lining cafés pavement or restaurants shops,

es g Brid

unusual history. Book ahead for a tour in English. in tour a for ahead Book history. unusual Isola del Lazzaretto Nuovo, tel. tel. Nuovo, Lazzaretto del Isola a Venenzi di le va rne a C Q the comparison is not entirely accurate. For instance, you won’t find many many find won’t you instance, For accurate. entirely not is comparison the

you can visit the island from April till October and explore the detailed archives of its its of archives detailed the explore and October till April from island the visit can you on par with its Parisian counterpart in terms of worldwide recognition, recognition, worldwide of terms in counterpart Parisian its with par on

WHAT TO SEE TO WHAT WHAT TO SEE TO WHAT SEE TO WHAT SEE TO WHAT SEE TO WHAT WHAT TO SEE TO WHAT

tel. +39 041 220 6517, www.miraivenice.com. Open 19:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. Closed 23:00. - 19:30 Open www.miraivenice.com. 6517, 220 041 +39 tel. www.ostellosantafosca.it.

522 1061, [email protected], nuke.barababao.it. [email protected], 1061, 522

pigeons 120,000

Whether you’re sipping coffee at sunrise or downing cocktails at sunset, Venice Venice sunset, at cocktails downing or sunrise at coffee sipping you’re Whether Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Maps venice.inyourpocket.com

C-2, Rio Terà Lista de Spagna, Cannaregio 227, 227, Cannaregio Spagna, de Lista Terà Rio C-2, station. train the near Located [email protected], 775, 715 041 +39 tel. 2372, Cannaregio Canal,

Q E-3, Cannaregio 5835, tel. +39 041 041 +39 tel. 5835, Cannaregio E-3, us. with fine is menu the on ink squid Q

people died from plague in 1630 in plague from died people 50,000

canals, the ones afforded to you by the Londra Palace really take the biscuit. biscuit. the take really Palace Londra the by you to afforded ones the canals,

are to a comparable standard of the US or other more sushi-fond European cities. cities. European sushi-fond more other or US the of standard comparable a to are Fondamenta D-2, strict. quite are times reception the and 20:00 at closes

Q

city, and the servings are generous to say the least. Plus anything with black black with anything Plus least. the say to generous are servings the and city,

churches 119

In a city full of hotels renowned for their beautiful views of Venice’s endless endless Venice’s of views beautiful their for renowned hotels of full city a In Many more restaurants online at at online restaurants more Many

very respectable sashimi, maguro and tempura, which despite being expensive, expensive, being despite which tempura, and maguro sashimi, respectable very room common the however, of aware be to thing One Venice. in time your

the food is prepared to order to guarantee some of the freshest meals in the the in meals freshest the of some guarantee to order to prepared is food the

square kilometres (historic centre) (historic kilometres square 7.6

ondra Palace ondra L

than acceptable alternative. With fresh market bought fish they churn out some some out churn they fish bought market fresh With alternative. acceptable than on advice providing at adept extremely are staff the and going, sleepiest

rewarded with a complimentary glass of Prosecco upon arrival their arrival. All All arrival. their arrival upon Prosecco of glass complimentary a with rewarded licensed Gondolas licensed 400

Asian cuisine is not very well represented here in Venice, but Mirai offers a more more a offers Mirai but Venice, in here represented well very not is cuisine Asian the even keep can coffee and tea free Unlimited church. average your than

walk from Rialto bridge in the Cannaregio district, those who find it will be be will it find who those district, Cannaregio the in bridge Rialto from walk

kilometres of canals of kilometres 42

thegrittipalace.com.

inevitably tire of all the pasta and seafood sauces and crave for something different. different. something for crave and sauces seafood and pasta the all of tire inevitably youthful and lively more bit a is atmosphere the so hall, residence versity 72 281, fax +39 041 52 72 323, [email protected], venissa.it. [email protected], 323, 72 52 041 +39 fax 281, 72

enchantment to Barababao. Hidden down a narrow lane just a few minutes’ minutes’ few a just lane narrow a down Hidden Barababao. to enchantment

canals 177

041 794611, fax +39 041 5200942, [email protected], www. [email protected], 5200942, 041 +39 fax 794611, 041

In a sea, or rather lagoon, of only Venetian and Italian dining options, some will will some options, dining Italian and Venetian only of lagoon, rather or sea, a In - uni a to connected also It’s history. same very this in sleep to portunity Fondamenta Santa Catarina 3, Isola di Mazzorbo, tel. +39 041 52 52 041 +39 tel. Mazzorbo, di Isola 3, Catarina Santa Fondamenta quil.

Q Some may call the décor unconventional, but we think it adds extra layers of of layers extra adds it think we but unconventional, décor the call may Some

bridges over the Grand Canal Grand the over bridges 4

D-4, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467, tel. +39 +39 tel. 2467, Giglio, del Maria Santa Campo D-4, opulence. of definition the Q

Mirai - op the you giving campus, church old an in located is Fosca Santa Ostella - tran more any get doesn’t simply Venice daily. almost changes menu the

ao b a b Bara teria Os Bacaro

bridges 435

over Venice with cocktails to die for, for want of a better phrase. Gritti Palace is is Palace Gritti phrase. better a of want for for, die to cocktails with Venice over

Italy is known for many things, and a long Catholic history is one of those. those. of one is history Catholic long a and things, many for known is Italy sourced from the surroundings. The seasonal nature of the cuisine means means cuisine the of nature seasonal The surroundings. the from sourced

islands in the historic centre historic the in islands 121

spacious, the food is excellent and the veranda bar gives you wonderful views views wonderful you gives bar veranda the and excellent is food the spacious, Venice +39 041 5240034, [email protected], www.hotelmetropole.com. [email protected], 5240034, 041 +39 ca s Fo Santa tella Os setting is reflected in the delightful food, with ingredients almost entirely entirely almost ingredients with food, delightful the in reflected is setting

Open 19:00 - 22:30. €€€€. 22:30. - 19:00 Open

tourists per year per tourists 20,000,000

would suggest. Somehow a relaxed air is maintained throughout. The rooms are are rooms The throughout. maintained is air relaxed a Somehow suggest. would

F-4, Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4149, tel. tel. 4149, Castello Schiavoni, degli Riva F-4, experiences. gastronomic of fully elegant restaurant. To call it idyllic would be doing it a disservice. The The disservice. a it doing be would idyllic it call To restaurant. elegant fully

Q Spring 2014 B-5, Giudecca 810, tel. +39 041 2723 311, www.molinostuckyhilton.com. www.molinostuckyhilton.com. 311, 2723 041 +39 tel. 810, Giudecca B-5, Q

inhabitants (historic centre) (historic inhabitants 60,000

this hotel in a single word. It is grand, it is lavish and it is exactly what the name name the what exactly is it and lavish is it grand, is It word. single a in hotel this

décor is all 17th century paintings and antiques, topping off this most unique unique most this off topping antiques, and paintings century 17th all is décor generatorhostels.com. [email protected], 8288, 877 041 +39 tel. -

an estate that is home to vineyards, a small guesthouse and this wonder this and guesthouse small a vineyards, to home is that estate an Mini-Guide ticated setting makes you feel like you’re at least getting your money’s worth. money’s your getting least at you’re like feel you makes setting ticated

inhabitants (commune) inhabitants 271,000

rious elegance. Okay, that’s three words, but there’s no way of truly describing describing truly of way no there’s but words, three that’s Okay, elegance. rious

The result can bring out some peculiar aesthetics, but this is truly a rare joy. The The joy. rare a truly is this but aesthetics, peculiar some out bring can result The Guidecca, 86, Zitelle Fondamenta D-6, quirks. our have all we but strange, Formerly a spiritual retreat for the rich, Mazzorbo is now home to Venissa, Venissa, to home now is Mazzorbo rich, the for retreat spiritual a Formerly Q - sophis the but name, Hilton the of typical are prices the Sure, skyline. Venice’s

- luxu total mind: our to springs word one only Palace, Gritti the of thinking When

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idea is simple enough: traditional recipes deconstructed with a modern spin. spin. modern a with deconstructed recipes traditional enough: simple is idea bit a are doors shower see-through The two. or beer a over socialising for fect nave ferry and take a half-hour journey out to the little island of Mazzorbo. Mazzorbo. of island little the to out journey half-hour a take and ferry nave better choice, affording guests magnificent views of the Giudecca canal and and canal Giudecca the of views magnificent guests affording choice, better

ritti Palace ritti G

offers Tra’Contemporary cuisine, helping it to stand out brighter than most. The The most. than brighter out stand to it helping cuisine, Tra’Contemporary offers - per is that area an however, bar 360 downstairs the in is joy real The reading. - Moto the on Hop island. main the to restricted isn’t dining fine Venice, In interior dining room or the panoramic terrace - the latter is quite obviously the the obviously quite is latter the - terrace panoramic the or room dining interior

Restaurant can’t be accused of. This Michelin star restaurant is unique in that it it that in unique is restaurant star Michelin This of. accused be can’t Restaurant late-night some for light LED and plug individual an with comes bed each and a ss Veni ranean food. Open from April until October, diners have a choice of either the the either of choice a have diners October, until April from Open food. ranean

luxurycollection.com, www.danielihotelvenice.com. luxurycollection.com,

we’d love to hear it at [email protected]. [email protected]. at it hear to love we’d

The charge of stagnation is something that Luca Veritti and his staff at the Met Met the at staff his and Veritti Luca that something is stagnation of charge The here, available all are rooms en-suite private and quads Dorms, budget. tighter - Mediter quality on monopoly a have doesn’t country the of south the that

Schiavoni 4196, tel. +39 041 522 6480, fax +39 041 5200 208, danieli@ 208, 5200 041 +39 fax 6480, 522 041 +39 tel. 4196, Schiavoni

Facebook. And if you have any questions, comments or feedback of any kind kind any of feedback or comments questions, any have you if And Facebook.

taurant s e R Met a on those for city the in options accommodation only) (and best the of one Open 12:30 - 14:30, 19:00-21:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Mon, Closed 19:00-21:30. 14:30, - 12:30 Open The Venice Hilton’s flagship restaurant Aromi goes a long way towards proving proving towards way long a goes Aromi restaurant flagship Hilton’s Venice The

E-4, Riva degli degli Riva E-4, most. of minds the in exists that Venice the life to brining Q

keep up to date on our progress online at venice.inyourpocket.com or on on or venice.inyourpocket.com at online progress our on date to up keep

On the historical Giudecca island in south central Venice, Generator Venice is is Venice Generator Venice, central south in island Giudecca historical the On Pestrin 3886, Castello, tel. +39 041 522 7024, [email protected]. [email protected]. 7024, 522 041 +39 tel. Castello, 3886, Pestrin i m ro A

and Steven Spielberg. It’s all elegant columns and old style wooden floors, floors, wooden style old and columns elegant all It’s Spielberg. Steven and

reams more content for the release of our full guide later this year. Until then then Until year. this later guide full our of release the for content more reams

com, www.ilridotto.com. €€. www.ilridotto.com. com, Venice enerator G F-4,Calle del del F-4,Calle notice. moments a at out you help will staff attentive the Q

as well as being the hotel of choice for Dickens, Byron, Goethe Goethe Byron, Dickens, for choice of hotel the being as well as Tourist, The of

scratch the surface of what Venice has to offer, and are currently preparing preparing currently are and offer, to has Venice what of surface the scratch

Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4509, tel. +39 041 520 8280, info@ilridotto. 8280, 520 041 +39 tel. 4509, Castello Giacomo, e Filippo also available. The immense selection of antipasti can be daunting, but but daunting, be can antipasti of selection immense The available. also com. Open . Closed Tue. €€€€. €€€€. Tue. Closed . Open com.

beaten. There’s a reason the Danieli was chosen as the location for large parts parts large for location the as chosen was Danieli the reason a There’s beaten.

Venice In Your Pocket (mini) guide. On the pages below we’ve just begun to to begun just we’ve below pages the On guide. (mini) Pocket Your In Venice

E-4, Campiello Santi Santi Campiello E-4, disappointment. avoid to ahead Book thing. good a www.casasantandrea.it. mous streets, but it is worth the effort. Vegan and gluten-free choices are are choices gluten-free and Vegan effort. the worth is it but streets, mous Q 37 02 7/+39 041 52 24 12 1, [email protected], www.anticomartini. [email protected], 1, 12 24 52 041 7/+39 02 37

far wrong. The views are breathtaking and the location simply cannot be be cannot simply location the and breathtaking are views The wrong. far

of saying that we are very pleased to introduce our first, and much overdue, overdue, much and first, our introduce to pleased very are we that saying of

and full of gutsy local flavours, and its popularity with the locals can only be be only can locals the with popularity its and flavours, local gutsy of full and [email protected], 0945, 277 041 +39 tel. 495/B, Croce Santa Sestiere - anony and alleys narrow down find, to tough little a be can It well. done D-4, San Marco 1983, tel. +39 041 52 52 041 +39 tel. 1983, Marco San D-4, 22:00. from open also is 2007) Marco Q

The Danieli promises convenience, comfort and atmosphere, and they aren’t aren’t they and atmosphere, and comfort convenience, promises Danieli The

is simply nowhere like it in the world, which is our rather long-winded way way long-winded rather our is which world, the in it like nowhere simply is

wine list, which has a great selection of choices by the glass. The food is fresh fresh is food The glass. the by choices of selection great a has which list, wine B-3, streets. the fill crowds the before Venice explore and bell monastery old a beautiful courtyard perfect for outdoor dining. This is traditional food food traditional is This dining. outdoor for perfect courtyard beautiful a Q show dinner or after-show drinks, while the proprietor’s nearby piano bar (San (San bar piano nearby proprietor’s the while drinks, after-show or dinner show

anieli D

morning more than a decade ago. Venice is a truly magical place, and there there and place, magical truly a is Venice ago. decade a than more morning

will add to your enjoyment. They’ll also help out with the rather intimidating intimidating rather the with out help also They’ll enjoyment. your to add will the to up Wake routes. (waterbus) vaporetto the on stop used frequently a Don’t let the unassuming façade fool you, inside this little restaurant is is restaurant little this inside you, fool façade unassuming the let Don’t elegant dining rooms. The Fenice theatre is adjacent, making it perfect for pre- for perfect it making adjacent, is theatre Fenice The rooms. dining elegant

Republic. Even for us, the city is still every bit as charming as it was on that that on was it as charming as bit every still is city the us, for Even Republic.

tasting menu is good value at €28, and the attentive and well-humoured staff staff well-humoured and attentive the and €28, at value good is menu tasting being as well as airport the from and to bus the for location great a in it’s tery, orte Sconta orte C rattoria T is too good to miss when the weather is nice, otherwise there are the three three the are there otherwise nice, is weather the when miss to good too is

041 520 3930, [email protected], www.hotelcipriani.com. [email protected], 3930, 520 041

it’s impossible not to be enchanted by the mere sight of the Most Serene Serene Most the of sight mere the by enchanted be to not impossible it’s

‘reduced’) is a delightfully romantic intimate experience. The two-course lunch lunch two-course The experience. intimate romantic delightfully a is ‘reduced’) - monas old an in Situated best. the of one it’s go city expensive notoriously a in cialities with an emphasis on seafood. Being on San Fantin square, the terrace terrace the square, Fantin San on Being seafood. on emphasis an with cialities

E-6, Giudecca 10, tel. +39 041 240 801/+39 01 852 678 451, fax +39 +39 fax 451, 678 852 01 801/+39 240 041 +39 tel. 10, Giudecca E-6, chance. Q

cross the causeway or approach by boat. Regardless of the mood you’re in, in, you’re mood the of Regardless boat. by approach or causeway the cross

Down a side street just off Piazza San Marco, Il Ridotto (which translates as as translates (which Ridotto Il Marco, San Piazza off just street side a Down options affordable as far as but basic, considered certainly an such, as defined com. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. €€€€. €€€€. Mon. Closed 22:30. - 19:00 14:30; - 12:00 Open com. - spe Venetian fine up serving days these restaurants, top Venice’s of one into

room and waiting service borders on the unbelievable too, with nothing left to to left nothing with too, unbelievable the on borders service waiting and room

trip here, your first glimpse of buildings rising up out of the lagoon as you you as lagoon the of out up rising buildings of glimpse first your here, trip

idotto R l I be could Sant’Andrea Casa ordered. doctor the what just is frills’ ‘no Sometimes fax 0039 41 52 08 04 1, [email protected], www.quadrivenice. [email protected], 1, 04 08 52 41 0039 fax The Antico Martini started out as a coffee shop in 1720 and has since grown grown since has and 1720 in shop coffee a as out started Martini Antico The

ful gardens, Olympic-sized swimming pool and luxury wellness facilities. The The facilities. wellness luxury and pool swimming Olympic-sized gardens, ful

But Venice is not just another famous city. You always remember your first first your remember always You city. famous another just not is Venice But

ndrea A Sant’ a s a C E-4, 720 Sestiere San Marco, tel. 0039 041 52 89 29 9, 9, 29 89 52 041 0039 tel. Marco, San Sestiere 720 E-4, wine. without 220 Q ntico Martini ntico A

- beauti the with faced when option only the is Relaxation Marco. San Piazza the

250 4505, [email protected], gamgamkosher.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. - 12:00 Open gamgamkosher.com. [email protected], 4505, 250 city’s lagoons and Rialto market every day. Tasting menus range from €180- from range menus Tasting day. every market Rialto and lagoons city’s

et g Bud

of San Giorgo, Cipriani is an island of tranquility existing outside of the chaos of of chaos the of outside existing tranquility of island an is Cipriani Giorgo, San of

famous city off our bucket list. bucket our off city famous

C-2, Ghetto Vecchio, Sestiere Cannaregio 1122, tel. +39 041 275 9256/+39 366 366 9256/+39 275 041 +39 tel. 1122, Cannaregio Sestiere Vecchio, Ghetto C-2, of increasingly traditional Venetian cuisine, the fish coming direct from the the from direct coming fish the cuisine, Venetian traditional increasingly of Q Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:30-23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. - 12:00 Sun Sat, 18:30-23:00, 15:30, - 12:00 Open

luxury. With glorious views of the Venice lagoon and the grand Palladian church church Palladian grand the and lagoon Venice the of views glorious With luxury.

wear and not exactly in the best of spirits, but still intent on checking another another checking on intent still but spirits, of best the in exactly not and wear

donation. The rest of the week is still inexpensive, with most of the mains under €15. under mains the of most with inexpensive, still is week the of rest The donation. family. Silvio Giavedoni and the sous chef Denis Mattiuzzi maintain a menu menu a maintain Mattiuzzi Denis chef sous the and Giavedoni Silvio family. gli Amai 197/E, Santa Croce, tel. +39 041 528 7794, [email protected]. [email protected]. 7794, 528 041 +39 tel. Croce, Santa 197/E, Amai gli

Located on Giudecca Island, Hotel Cipriani really is the definition of old world world old of definition the is really Cipriani Hotel Island, Giudecca on Located

Mestre on the mainland to the island(s) of Venice proper - definitely worse for for worse definitely - proper Venice of island(s) the to mainland the on Mestre

on a Saturday evening for Shabbat, where meals are free, costing just a suggested suggested a just costing free, are meals where Shabbat, for evening Saturday a on rooms. 185 day. a 24h/ day ise a quintessential Venetian dining room, it is presently run by the Alajmo Alajmo the by run presently is it room, dining Venetian quintessential a ise

- de Colle B-3, that stop you from enjoying some of the best pizza in town. in pizza best the of some enjoying from you stop that Q

riani p i C

fully appreciate the irony of the situation, we grudgingly took the train from from train the took grudgingly we situation, the of irony the appreciate fully

It’s very popular, so we recommend making a reservation ahead of time. Head there there Head time. of ahead reservation a making recommend we so popular, very It’s every Open www.westin.com. [email protected], 3, 53 31 52 041 - character to come would that chandeliers sparkling and furnishings wood other places in the city. There’s a €2 cover charge per person, but don’t let let don’t but person, per charge cover €2 a There’s city. the in places other

half-sleep, as we awoke to find a parking ticket on the windscreen! Failing to to Failing windscreen! the on ticket parking a find to awoke we as half-sleep,

with huge variety and even bigger portions - seriously, these are some big portions! portions! big some are these seriously, - portions bigger even and variety huge with +39 fax 01, 00 24 041 +39 tel. 2159, Marco San D-4, Quadri is one of the city’s top restaurants. Featuring some of the first dark dark first the of some Featuring restaurants. top city’s the of one is Quadri too. beds Great alive. Q centuate this, with a stress-free attitude to service that contrasts with many many with contrasts that service to attitude stress-free a with this, centuate

fax +39 041 241 3339, [email protected], www.cortedigabriela.com. [email protected], 3339, 241 041 +39 fax

of hoteliers, was watching over our incredibly uncomfortable few hours of of hours few uncomfortable incredibly our over watching was hoteliers, of

at the entrance to the oldest ghetto in the world, Gam Gam cooks up homey food food homey up cooks Gam Gam world, the in ghetto oldest the to entrance the at The only fine dining experience to be had on San Marco piazza itself, the the itself, piazza Marco San on had be to experience dining fine only The comes bar terrace the night at Late why. see to easy it’s surroundings grandiose a pleasant atmosphere that’s perfect for watching the day go by. The staff ac staff The by. go day the watching for perfect that’s atmosphere pleasant a -

D-4, Calle degli Avvocati - San Marco 3836, tel. +39 041 523 5077, 5077, 523 041 +39 tel. 3836, Marco San - Avvocati degli Calle D-4, room. each Q

save money on a hotel. Unfortunately, it seems St Martha, the patron saint saint patron the Martha, St seems it Unfortunately, hotel. a on money save

The only Kosher restaurant in all of Venice, Gam Gam is something special. Sitting right right Sitting special. something is Gam Gam Venice, of all in restaurant Kosher only The Quadri such in sipping when but side, expensive the on little a is inside Tiepolo Bar fantastic place for a slow, relaxed lunch, this small unassuming eatery provides provides eatery unassuming small this lunch, relaxed slow, a for place fantastic

century atmosphere, all be it a 19th century with a free-to-use iPad provided in in provided iPad free-to-use a with century 19th a it be all atmosphere, century

hours and ended up sleeping in our rental car (a tiny grey Peugeot 206) to to 206) Peugeot grey tiny (a car rental our in sleeping up ended and hours

er sh o K m a G m a G own personal pier for a water taxi arrival embellishes the romance of this hotel. hotel. this of romance the embellishes arrival taxi water a for pier personal own Can a fine-dining pizzeria truly exist? Al Bacco Felice suggests that it can. A A can. it that suggests Felice Bacco Al exist? truly pizzeria fine-dining a Can

One even has a circular bed! Venetian furnishings and frescoes provide a true 19th- true a provide frescoes and furnishings Venetian bed! circular a has even One

drive from Paris in a single day, we arrived sometime in the early morning morning early the in sometime arrived we day, single a in Paris from drive

14:30, 19:30-22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. Sun. Mon, Closed 19:30-22:30. 14:30, its of addition the Canal, Grand the overlooking rooms With Westin. the than l Bacco Felice Bacco l A

of Corte Di Gabriela. They claim that no two rooms are alike, and they aren’t wrong. wrong. aren’t they and alike, are rooms two no that claim They Gabriela. Di Corte of

We first visited Venice more than a decade ago. Attempting to make the the make to Attempting ago. decade a than more Venice visited first We

com. Open 10:30 - 23:30. 20€ - 50€. €€€€. €€€€. 50€. - 20€ 23:30. - 10:30 Open com. +39 (041) 721308, [email protected], www.dafiore.net. Open 12:30 - - 12:30 Open www.dafiore.net. [email protected], 721308, (041) +39 Venice in location for value better be not might there room, double a for night

Dining al fresco on the Giudecca Canal, photo by YMB by photo Canal, Giudecca the on fresco al Dining

of the hotel himself. It’s this sort of hands-on service that truly encapsulates the feel feel the encapsulates truly that service hands-on of sort this It’s himself. hotel the of

52 85 77 7, fax +39 041 52 08 82 2, [email protected], www.cipriani. [email protected], 2, 82 08 52 041 +39 fax 7, 77 85 52 As strange as it might sound for a hotel where you can easily spend €500 a a €500 spend easily can you where hotel a for sound might it as strange As C-3, San Polo 2002, tel. tel. 2002, Polo San C-3, city. entire the in spots romantic most the of Q Wikimedia Commons/chensiyuan Wikimedia

San Marco district. The breakfast is utterly exquisite, often cooked by the manager manager the by cooked often exquisite, utterly is breakfast The district. Marco San

D-4, San marco 1323, tel. +39 041 041 +39 tel. 1323, marco San D-4, egina R & a p uro E tin s We e Th in order to secure the balcony table overlooking the canals, surely one one surely canals, the overlooking table balcony the secure to order in here. invented actually were Carpaccio Light traffic near Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal just after sunset, sunset, after just Canal Grand the on Bridge Rialto near traffic Light Q

and contemporary, but none manage this quite as well as Corte Di Gabriela in the the in Gabriela Di Corte as well as quite this manage none but contemporary, and

palettes, but the elegance of Da Fiore is undeniable. Book well ahead ahead well Book undeniable. is Fiore Da of elegance the but palettes, and Bellini the cocktails; the for come else, nothing If dessert. for cake Dolci

Somewhere around 100 per cent of the hotels in Venice claim to be both classic classic both be to claim Venice in hotels the of cent per 100 around Somewhere

hilton.com, www.molinostuckyhilton.com. Open 24h/ a day. day. a 24h/ Open www.molinostuckyhilton.com. hilton.com, challenging ingredients. The subtle tastes on the menu might not fit all all fit not might menu the on tastes subtle The ingredients. challenging Harry’s course, of and others) (among mains veal and scampi sandwiches,

riela b a G i D orte C

Giudecca 810, tel. +39 041 27 23 31 1, fax +39 041 27 23 30 8, info.venice@ 8, 30 23 27 041 +39 fax 1, 31 23 27 041 +39 tel. 810, Giudecca odd yet charming space provides quality cuisine, all be it with often often with it be all cuisine, quality provides space charming yet odd soups, including menu full a has currently Harry’s family, Cipriani the by run

a better place to watch the sun go down (or go for a swim) in the city. the in swim) a for go (or down go sun the watch to place better a What isn’t there to love about eating in an old Venetian tavern? This This tavern? Venetian old an in eating about love to there isn’t What Still Welles. Orson and Hitchcock Alfred Hemingway, Earnest Chaplin, Charlie B-5, Q

day 24h/ a day. 50 rooms. rooms. 50 day. a 24h/ day

show is the rooftop swimming pool, situated 35m above sea-level. There isn’t isn’t There sea-level. above 35m situated pool, swimming rooftop the is show a Fiore a D teria Os of likes the including patronage a of courtesy status, legendary acquired since

07 55 7, [email protected], www.palladiohotelspa.com. Open every every Open www.palladiohotelspa.com. [email protected], 7, 55 07

hour fitness centre free to use by guests. However, for us the real star of this this of star real the us for However, guests. by use to free centre fitness hour Harry’s bar was opened in 1931 by former bartender Giuseppe Cipriani. It has has It Cipriani. Giuseppe bartender former by 1931 in opened was bar Harry’s

E-6, Giudecca 33, tel. +39 041 27 03 80 9/+39 041 52 07 02 2, fax +39 041 52 52 041 +39 fax 2, 02 07 52 041 9/+39 80 03 27 041 +39 tel. 33, Giudecca E-6, Q

Timber beamed ceilings dominate the elegant bedrooms, and there is a 24- a is there and bedrooms, elegant the dominate ceilings beamed Timber osterialletestiere.it. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Sun. Mon, Closed 19:00-23:00. 15:00, - 12:00 Open osterialletestiere.it. Bar s Harry’

tries and paintings. A free shuttle boat runs between the hotel and San Marco. San and hotel the between runs boat shuttle free A paintings. and tries

as a ‘modern Venetian masterpiece’ and that might just be an understatement. understatement. an be just might that and masterpiece’ Venetian ‘modern a as Novo, tel./fax 0039 041 52 27 22 0, [email protected], www. [email protected], 0, 22 27 52 041 0039 tel./fax Novo,

- tapes antiquated with impressive, is decor the dated, look rooms the of several

tres north of Piazza San Marco. San Piazza of north tres Situated in a 19th century flour mill, the Hilton Molino Stucky describes itself itself describes Stucky Molino Hilton the mill, flour century 19th a in Situated E-3, Castello 5801, Calle del Mondo Mondo del Calle 5801, Castello E-3, Thu. Closed 23:00. - 18:30 Sun 18:30-22:30, 14:30, - 11:30 Open Q

treatment rooms, and the whole thing is housed in a 16th century convent. While While convent. century 16th a in housed is thing whole the and rooms, treatment

divine pumpkin ravioli were all top notch. Located a few hundred me hundred few a Located notch. top all were ravioli pumpkin divine - Molino Stucky Hilton Venice Hilton Stucky Molino D-2, Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 3912, tel. +39 041 528 5324. 5324. 528 041 +39 tel. 3912, Cannaregio Pistor, del Calle D-2, visiting. Q

the hotel’s tranquil gardens. In addition, there’s a 450 square metre spa with eight eight with spa metre square 450 a there’s addition, In gardens. tranquil hotel’s the

understated. Perfectly cooked scallops, prawns in ‘busara’ sauce, and a a and sauce, ‘busara’ in prawns scallops, cooked Perfectly understated. enough. One thing to note, they don’t accept credit cards, so carry cash when when cash carry so cards, credit accept don’t they note, to thing One enough.

Venice are breathtaking, some rooms looking out over the water and other over over other and water the over out looking rooms some breathtaking, are Venice

all the fine dining in Venice, nothing gives the satisfaction more than the the than more satisfaction the gives nothing Venice, in dining fine the all hotelondra.it. hotelondra.it. sheer quality of their meatballs. Full of flavour, we really can’t recommend them them recommend can’t really we flavour, of Full meatballs. their of quality sheer

Giudecca island, just across the water from San Marco. As such, the views of of views the such, As Marco. San from water the across just island, Giudecca

ers (the restaurant seats an exclusive 24), and weren’t disappointed. Of Of disappointed. weren’t and 24), exclusive an seats restaurant (the ers tel. +39 041 52 00 53 3, fax +39 041 52 25 03 2, [email protected], www. [email protected], 2, 03 25 52 041 +39 fax 3, 53 00 52 041 +39 tel. tracts mainly locals, most of whom seem to be instinctively drawn here by the the by here drawn instinctively be to seem whom of most locals, mainly tracts

The five-star Bauer Palladio offers an unbeatable location on the peaceful peaceful the on location unbeatable an offers Palladio Bauer five-star The

waited in anticipation for the 19:00 sitting, with 20 or so other lucky din lucky other so or 20 with sitting, 19:00 the for anticipation in waited - E-4, Riva Degli Schiavoni - Castello 4171, 4171, Castello - Schiavoni Degli Riva E-4, class. such of hotel a in applauded truly is Venetian cuisine off the beaten track. It’s the type of restaurant that at that restaurant of type the It’s track. beaten the off cuisine Venetian is truly - Q

Bauer Palladio Hotel & S & Hotel Palladio Bauer a p

acclaimed gem when their amazing food is tasted. Widely praised, we we praised, Widely tasted. is food amazing their when gem acclaimed taurant offers great food with generous portions, something that should be be should that something portions, generous with food great offers taurant Vedova: authenticity and meatballs. Don’t expect hoards of tourists here, this this here, tourists of hoards expect Don’t meatballs. and authenticity Vedova:

rket rket a pm U

A simple trattoria both inside and out, this eatery becomes a Michelin Michelin a becomes eatery this out, and inside both trattoria simple A - res The fantastic. be to happen also they but pricey be may they cocktails, Truth be told, there are only two things you truly need to know about Alla Alla about know to need truly you things two only are there told, be Truth

T lle A teria Os tiere s e comes alive from the various rooms of the Londra Palace. Speaking of those those of Speaking Palace. Londra the of rooms various the from alive comes ro alla Vedo alla ro O ’ D à C a v

WHERE TO STAY TO WHERE WHERE TO EAT TO WHERE EAT TO WHERE WHERE TO STAY TO WHERE VENICE INTRODUCING WHERE TO EAT TO WHERE inyourpocket.com