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Innsbruck the City Guide Monika Frenzel Innsbruck the City Guide

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Innsbruck the City Guide Monika Frenzel Innsbruck the City Guide MONIKA FRENZEL INNSBRUCK THE CITY GUIDE MONIKA FRENZEL INNSBRUCK THE CITY GUIDE Third Revised Edition Tyrolia-Verlag Innsbruck - Vienna 2 FOREWORD INNSBRUCK introduction to a city THE ALPINE METROPOLIS cultural programme. A blend of sport IN THE CENTRE OF EUROPE and culture of a high standard shapes Innsbruck’s favourable geographical this “treasure house of the Alps”, as position was always decisive in the Innsbruck is frequently called. The city’s growth and afluence: at the in- traditional alternates with the mod- tersection between north and south, ern – Festival of Early Music, Inter- east and west, the town already national Dance Summer, promenade constituted a trading centre of sig- concerts and courtly festivities as in niicance in the Middle Ages. When in Emperor Maximilian I’s day are but 1420 the Tyrolean Habsburgs moved a few examples of the high-proile their residence from Meran to Inns- events. bruck its rise was unstoppable. Un- der Emperor Maximilian I – he estab- THE HABSBURGS AS lished his main ofices in Innsbruck A TOURIST MAGNET – the Tyrolean residence became the Austria’s ruling dynasty is presented “secret capital”. Until 1665 Innsbruck in Innsbruck at the Hofburg, the FOREWORD remained a Habsburg residence, Court Church and Schloss Ambras. subsequently the town was ruled Such cultural and touristic highlights centrally from Vienna by governors. still captivate numerous visitors. The In 1849 it became the provincial capi- Hofburg in Innsbruck is the third most tal of the Tyrol. important historic building in Austria after Schönbrunn Palace and the NATURE MEETS CULTURE Hofburg in Vienna. Emperor Maxi- Surrounded by superb Alpine scen- milian I, Maria Theresa or Empress ery in the midst of a holiday land- Elisabeth (“Sissi”) were the shooting scape, Innsbruck provides countless stars of the past. Today’s visitor loves sports amenities and a demanding these “tales of bygone days” – his- 3 View of the old town from the Ottoburg torical accuracy apart, it is the anec- status with the maintenance of tradi- FOREWORD dotes, the inside knowledge of great tional customs. The special tips have events, that make history so exciting been conscientiously researched and so interesting. and are intended as an aid to enable guests to ind their way around the As well as providing useful informa- Tyrol and, above all, Innsbruck. tion and historical facts, the Inns- bruck City Guide aims to shed light We hope that readers will enjoy this on those background tales that are City Guide. not common knowledge. Modernism in the Tyrol must be accorded equal DR. MONIKA FRENZEL 4 CONTENTS CHAPTER 01 HISTORY – a cultural and historical retrospect 6 Chronological Table 10 CHAPTER 02 ROUTES THROUGH THE TOWN – Discovering Innsbruck 20 Route 01: THE OLD TOWN 22 A vibrant centre down through the years TRIUMPH OF AN EMPEROR 34 Maximilian I as patron of the arts Route 02: SPLENDOUR 36 The buildings on the Rennweg HIGHLY THEATRICAL 48 Innsbruck and baroque opera Route 03: THE NEW TOWN 50 Modernism meets history THE GUMPPS 58 A family of artists IRON GARMENTS 59 Ceremonial and tournament armour Route 04: CHAMBERS OF WONDER 60 Renaissance culture at Schloss Ambras CONTENTS FERDINAND II 66 Art collector and garden creator Route 05: WILTEN 68 The Premonstratensian district Route 06: BERGISEL 72 Heroic mountain and sports arena 5 CHAPTER 03 MUSEUMS IN INNSBRUCK – learning & wondering 76 Ferdinandeum 78 Museum im Zeughaus, Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum 79 Court Church 80 Imperial Hofburg, KHM Collection Schloss Ambras 81 Golden Roof Museum, Municipal Archive/Museum, Alpenverein Museum, Bell Museum Grassmayr 83 Museum on Bergisel, Giant Panoramic Painting Wilten Abbey Museum 84 Servite Art Cabinet, Museum of Plaster Casts and Original Collection, Radio Museum, Local Railway Museum, Winkler Apothecary Museum 85 CHAPTER 04 MODERN ARCHITECTURE – perspectives for the future 86 Faculty of Social & Economic Sciences, Town Hall 88 Bergisel Ski Jump, Main Station 89 Adambräu Brewery, Sparkassenplatz Haymon Bookshop 90 BTV Stadtforum, Hungerburg link 91 CHAPTER 05 NATURE NEAR THE TOWN – nature meets culture 92 Alpenzoo, Hungerburg link 94 Adlerweg, Alpine Pasture Walk 95 Goetheweg, Innsbruck Via Ferrata, Rosnerweg Gramartboden – Planötzenhof, Karwendel Alpine Park 96 Patscherkofel, Alpine Garden, Zirbenweg 97 Heiligwasser, Mutterer Alm 98 Axamer Lizum, Telfer Wiesen Walk 99 CONTENTS CHAPTER 06 EXCURSIONS in the near surroundings 100 Hall 102 Swarovski Crystal Worlds Wattens, Schwaz 107 Schloss Tratzberg 109 CHAPTER 07 SERVICE – facts worth knowing from A to Z 110 Index 142 Photographic sources & bibliography, imprint 144 HISTORYCHAPTER 01 a cultural and historical retrospect Ambrogio de Predis, Maximilian I., 1502, © KHM 8 Veldidena, model from the Ferdinandeum The name “Innsbruck” means was regarded as rough, inhospitable bridge across the Inn. “Insprucke” and hazardous. or “Insprugge” were the names given to this new settlement found- The PREMONSTRATENSIANS came ed by the Bavarian COUNTS OF to Wilten in 1138 and founded their ANDECHS-MERANIEN who owned abbey. There is evidence of continual extensive property in the Inn Valley. settlement there since Roman times. Their “Omeras” (Ambras) castle VELDIDENA (Wilten), the Roman cit- on the other side of the valley was adel, served as a supply centre and destroyed in 1133, but then rebuilt. many an old veteran settled here, no Having acquired land from Wilten longer able to manage the route to Abbey in an exchange, the Counts Rome. Traces of this early settlement of Andechs settled beside the Inn. (see p. 68) have been found around They had a residence built (Andechs- Veldidena. Close association gave hof) and in 1180 they constructed the rise to the Rhaeto-Romanic peo- irst wooden Inn bridge connecting ple whose language has survived as both banks. There was also a ferry Ladin in a few remote Alpine valleys between “Anbruggen” (St. Nikolaus) (Engadine, Friuli, Dolomites) until HISTORY and the new marketplace. This quick- today. ly developed thanks to its favourable strategic position. Mentioned in doc- After the Andechs dynasty died out in uments of 1239 as “urbs Oenipons” 1248 the land passed hereditarily to (town charter), the town mainly had the COUNTS OF TIROL who resided medieval trading to thank for its early at Schloss Tirol near Meran. At that heyday. The Brenner, established as a time the political emphasis obviously route since 15 B.C., served as an eas- lay in the south. Innsbruck was still a ier crossing than the unpredictable trading centre, but hard on its heels Reschen pass. Travellers neverthe- was up-and-coming Hall which was less passed through the “land in the lourishing economically thanks to its mountains” as quickly as possible, it salt deposits (town charter 1303). 9 Schloss Tirol near Meran COUNT MEINHARD II of Görz-Tirol In 1420 DUKE FRIEDL (IV) OF THE (died 1295) irst united both parts of EMPTY PURSE (1382–1439) moved the land to the north and south of the his residence to Innsbruck. This Brenner, creating the COUNTY OF decision heralded Innsbruck’s rise TIROL. As a vassal of the Bishops and its outstanding importance as a of Brixen and Trent, he attempted to SEAT OF HABSBURG RULE. Friedl grasp political power. After endless had the “Neuhof” built, the second wars and excommunication he inally residence after the Andechshof, and succeeded, but his sons forfeited their – despite his sobriquet – amassed political capital. Meinhard’s grand- many riches. Intended defamatorily, daughter, MARGARETE MAULT- the nickname was given him by his ASCH, conveyed the territory to Duke political adversaries who had joined RUDOLF IV OF HABSBURG in 1363. together during his imprisonment at Herself married to a Wittelsbach, the the Council of Constance (1414–18). last Countess of Tirol bequeathed His support for John XXIII, as anti- the land to the Habsburgs, this sub- pope the losing candidate, brought sequently leading to much irritation him arrest and the coniscation of all in the Bavarian-Tyrolean neighbourly his property by Emperor Sigismund of relationship. For the HABSBURGS Luxembourg. Friedl was able to lee, HISTORY the Tyrol and the foreland constitut- however. After various adventures he ed the outermost bastion in the west. again reached the Tyrol where he re- Aware that they had inherited a rich ceived his ofices back and – thanks domain, they granted the Tyrol spe- to the expansion of mining – became cial rights from the very beginning. In one of the Tyrol’s richest rulers. gratitude, Albrecht III and Leopold III, Rudolf’s brothers, donated an object His son, SIGMUND THE RICH IN of great historical signiicance, the al- COIN (1427–96), brought new em- tar of Schloss Tirol (c. 1370) which is phasis, moving the mint from MER- regarded as one of the oldest surviv- AN TO HALL in 1477 in order to be ing winged altarpieces (p. 78). nearer the rich sources of silver at 10 CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE survey of innsbruck’s history 15 B.C Building of a road across the 1629 Building of the Comedy Brenner, Veldidena supply House camp 1647–1662 Regency of Archduke Ferdi- 1027 Bishops of Brixen and Trent nand Karl, married to Anna are granted the “land in the de’ Medici mountains” by the German 1654 Building of the court opera emperors – free passage guar- house anteed, ensured by bailiffs 1655 Queen Christina of Sweden 1138 Premonstratensians in Wilten converts to Catholicism in 1180 First bridge built across the Innsbruck, irst performance Inn (“insprugge”) under Count of Cesti’s L’Argia Berchtold IV of Andechs 1662–65 Archduke Sigmund Franz’s, 1239 First documentary mention of sudden death 1665; he Innsbruck as a town remained childless 1276–95 Meinhard II of Görz-Tirol 1665 Death of the Tyrolean line of unites both parts of the land in Habsburgs, central rule from the “County of Tirol” Vienna 1363 The Tyrol passes to the House 1669 Foundation of the University of Habsburg, residence at under Emperor Leopold I Schloss Tirol near Meran 1703 “Boarischer Rummel” (War of 1420 Duke Friedl IV moves the the Spanish Succession), St.
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