PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMICAL TOURISM Learning Resource Material

CHAPTER 2 EVOLUTION OF THE FILIPINO

Culinary history

During the pre-Hispanic era in the , the preferred Austronesian methods for preparation were boiling, and roasting. The ingredients for common dishes were obtained from locally raised livestock. These ranged from water buffalos/, , and pigs to various kinds of and other . In 3200 BCE, Austronesians from southern (Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau) and settled in the region that is now called the Philippines. They brought with them knowledge of cultivation and other farming practices which increased the number and variety of edible dish ingredients available for .

Foreign influences on

Ancient (blue) was used by Indians and Chinese to trade with and other Southeast Asians. Both Spice trade route and Road (red) were blocked by the Ottoman Empire in 1453 CE which spurred the Age of Discovery and European colonialism.

Filipino cuisine may be confusing to some people due to it being hard to determine what is actually Filipino. Confusion occurs due to the consistent growing phases of Filipino culture. Filipino culture has been constantly changing throughout history, gaining influence from various cultures and inevitably has evolved. Filipino food today has been shaped by history and society of many unique and affluent cultures. Influences from China, , and Arabia are seen throughout Filipino food and culture due to the agricultural trading of the times. Influences from and the are seen through past colonization of the country. Filipino food can be studied and given a definition through the process of indigenizing its people throughout centuries.

Direct influence of India

Indian influences can also be noted in rice-based delicacies such as:  (analogous to the Indonesian bingka),  , and , where the latter two are plausibly derived from the south Indian , which also has variants throughout Maritime (e.g. putu, putu mangkok).  The kare-kare, more popular in , on the other hand could trace its origins from the Seven Years' War when the British occupied for 2 years mostly with Sepoys (Indian conscripts), who had to improvise Indian dishes given the lack of in the Philippines to make . This is said to explain the name and its supposed thick, yellow-to-orange and -based , which alludes to a type of curry.  originated from the Indian achar, which was transmitted via the of the , , and . Not to mention that nasing biringyi is similar to .

PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMICAL TOURISM Learning Resource Material

Arab influence via indirect trade

The Arab influence on Filipino cuisine is relatively minor. Historically, Arabs influence arrived via India to Indonesia and the Philippines. In the earlier days, Arabs traded with Indians, who in turn traded with Southeast Asia. In the later era, with advancement of sea navigation, Arabs also started to trade directly with the Philippines.

Chinese influence

The Chinese had been trading with the inhabitants of the Philippine archipelago since the early 9th or 10th centuries. Soon after, the Chinese began to immigrate there in the 16th century. Chinese influence is best seen in noodles and spring rolls. There are also many ingredients such as , black , , , etc., that are seen in Filipino cooking.

Direct trade and cultural exchange with Hokkien China in the Philippines in the (960–1279 AD) with , ceramics, and silk being traded for spices and trepang in Luzon.

This early cultural contact with China introduced a number of into Filipino cuisine, most notably:  toyo (soy sauce; Chinese: 豆油: tāu-yu),  tokwa; (tofu; Chinese: 豆干; tāu-koa),  toge ( sprout; Chinese: 豆芽; tāu-koa),  and patis (), as well as the method of stir and making savory soup bases.

Many of these food items and dishes retained their original Hokkien names, such as:  pancit (Chinese: 便ê食; piān-ê-sit)(Chinese:̍ 扁食; biǎn shí), and  lumpia (Chinese: 潤餅; jūn-piáⁿ, lūn-piáⁿ). The food introduced during this period were food of the workers and traders, which became a staple of the noodle shops (panciterias), and can be seen in dishes like (), sinangag ().

Hispanic influence

The Spanish came to the Philippines and ruled its islands by 1565 until 1898. Filipinos began using the Spanish (tomatoes, , and cooked in oil) for their dishes. Many cooking customs and techniques were adapted as well as various dishes.

Since the Spanish ruled both Mexico and the Philippines, the two were inevitably connected and they transported various goods between the two colonies. Spanish colonizers and friars in the 16th century brought with them produce from the such as chili peppers, , corn, potatoes, tomatoes, , bell peppers, jicama (singkamas), (sayote), , , annatto (atsuete) and the method of sautéing with garlic and onions. Chili leaves are frequently used as a cooking green. The Mexicans received rice, , , , and mangoes from the Philippine soil.

PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMICAL TOURISM Learning Resource Material

Hispanic dishes were eventually incorporated into Filipino cuisine with the more complex dishes usually being prepared for special occasions.

Some dishes such as:  remain largely the same in the Filipino context.  Some have been adapted or have come to take on a slightly or significantly different meaning. served in the Philippines usually includes ground called .  Philippine longganisa, despite its name, is more akin to than Spanish (in Visayan regions, it is still known as chorizo).  Morcon likely refers to a beef roulade dish, not the bulbous specialty Spanish .

American colonial and ongoing influence

After the Spanish–American War in 1898, the United States controlled the Philippines due to the . US soldiers introduced Filipinos to hot dogs, , , and . They also introduced convenient such as , , instant . and evaporated milk.

Today, Filipino cuisine continues to evolve as new techniques and styles of cooking, and ingredients find their way into the country. Traditional dishes both simple and elaborate, indigenous and foreign-influenced, are seen as are more current popular international dishes and fare. However, the Filipino diet is higher in total fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol than other Asian diets.