Chapter 2 Evolution of the Filipino Cuisine
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PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMICAL TOURISM Learning Resource Material CHAPTER 2 EVOLUTION OF THE FILIPINO CUISINE Culinary history During the pre-Hispanic era in the Philippines, the preferred Austronesian methods for food preparation were boiling, steaming and roasting. The ingredients for common dishes were obtained from locally raised livestock. These ranged from water buffalos/carabaos, chicken, and pigs to various kinds of fish and other seafood. In 3200 BCE, Austronesians from southern China (Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau) and Taiwan settled in the region that is now called the Philippines. They brought with them knowledge of rice cultivation and other farming practices which increased the number and variety of edible dish ingredients available for cooking. Foreign influences on Filipino cuisine Ancient Spice trade route (blue) was used by Indians and Chinese to trade with Filipinos and other Southeast Asians. Both Spice trade route and Silk Road (red) were blocked by the Ottoman Empire in 1453 CE which spurred the Age of Discovery and European colonialism. Filipino cuisine may be confusing to some people due to it being hard to determine what is actually Filipino. Confusion occurs due to the consistent growing phases of Filipino culture. Filipino culture has been constantly changing throughout history, gaining influence from various cultures and inevitably has evolved. Filipino food today has been shaped by history and society of many unique and affluent cultures. Influences from China, India, and Arabia are seen throughout Filipino food and culture due to the agricultural trading of the times. Influences from Spain and the United States are seen through past colonization of the country. Filipino food can be studied and given a definition through the process of indigenizing its people throughout centuries. Direct influence of India Indian influences can also be noted in rice-based delicacies such as: bibingka (analogous to the Indonesian bingka), puto, and puto bumbong, where the latter two are plausibly derived from the south Indian puttu, which also has variants throughout Maritime Southeast Asia (e.g. kue putu, putu mangkok). The kare-kare, more popular in Luzon, on the other hand could trace its origins from the Seven Years' War when the British occupied Manila for 2 years mostly with Sepoys (Indian conscripts), who had to improvise Indian dishes given the lack of spices in the Philippines to make curry. This is said to explain the name and its supposed thick, yellow-to-orange annatto and peanut-based sauce, which alludes to a type of curry. Atchara originated from the Indian achar, which was transmitted via the acar of the Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Not to mention that nasing biringyi is similar to Biryani. PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMICAL TOURISM Learning Resource Material Arab influence via indirect trade The Arab influence on Filipino cuisine is relatively minor. Historically, Arabs influence arrived via India to Indonesia and the Philippines. In the earlier days, Arabs traded with Indians, who in turn traded with Southeast Asia. In the later era, with advancement of sea navigation, Arabs also started to trade directly with the Philippines. Chinese influence The Chinese had been trading with the inhabitants of the Philippine archipelago since the early 9th or 10th centuries. Soon after, the Chinese began to immigrate there in the 16th century. Chinese influence is best seen in pancit noodles and lumpia spring rolls. There are also many ingredients such as soy sauce, black beans, tofu, pork, etc., that are seen in Filipino cooking. Direct trade and cultural exchange with Hokkien China in the Philippines in the Song dynasty (960–1279 AD) with porcelain, ceramics, and silk being traded for spices and trepang in Luzon. This early cultural contact with China introduced a number of staple food into Filipino cuisine, most notably: toyo (soy sauce; Chinese: 豆油: tāu-yu), tokwa; (tofu; Chinese: 豆干; tāu-koa), toge (bean sprout; Chinese: 豆芽; tāu-koa), and patis (fish sauce), as well as the method of stir frying and making savory soup bases. Many of these food items and dishes retained their original Hokkien names, such as: pancit (Chinese: 便ê食; piān-ê-sit)(Chinese:̍ 扁食; biǎn shí), and lumpia (Chinese: 潤餅; jūn-piáⁿ, lūn-piáⁿ). The food introduced during this period were food of the workers and traders, which became a staple of the noodle shops (panciterias), and can be seen in dishes like arroz caldo (congee), sinangag (fried rice). Hispanic influence The Spanish came to the Philippines and ruled its islands by 1565 until 1898. Filipinos began using the Spanish sofrito (tomatoes, onions, and garlic cooked in oil) for their dishes. Many cooking customs and techniques were adapted as well as various dishes. Since the Spanish ruled both Mexico and the Philippines, the two were inevitably connected and they transported various goods between the two colonies. Spanish colonizers and friars in the 16th century brought with them produce from the New World such as chili peppers, chocolate, corn, potatoes, tomatoes, pineapples, bell peppers, jicama (singkamas), chayote (sayote), avocado, peanuts, annatto (atsuete) and the method of sautéing with garlic and onions. Chili leaves are frequently used as a cooking green. The Mexicans received rice, sugarcane, tamarind, coconuts, and mangoes from the Philippine soil. PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMICAL TOURISM Learning Resource Material Hispanic dishes were eventually incorporated into Filipino cuisine with the more complex dishes usually being prepared for special occasions. Some dishes such as: Arroz a la valenciana remain largely the same in the Filipino context. Some have been adapted or have come to take on a slightly or significantly different meaning. Arroz a la cubana served in the Philippines usually includes ground beef called picadillo. Philippine longganisa, despite its name, is more akin to chorizo than Spanish longaniza (in Visayan regions, it is still known as chorizo). Morcon likely refers to a beef roulade dish, not the bulbous specialty Spanish sausage. American colonial and ongoing influence After the Spanish–American War in 1898, the United States controlled the Philippines due to the Treaty of Paris. US soldiers introduced Filipinos to hot dogs, hamburgers, fried chicken, and ice cream. They also introduced convenient foods such as spam, corned beef, instant coffee. and evaporated milk. Today, Filipino cuisine continues to evolve as new techniques and styles of cooking, and ingredients find their way into the country. Traditional dishes both simple and elaborate, indigenous and foreign-influenced, are seen as are more current popular international dishes and fast food fare. However, the Filipino diet is higher in total fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol than other Asian diets. .