A KARAITE ITINERARY THROUGH TURKEY IN 1641-2

BERNARD LEWIS

In July 1641 the Karaite ^ Samu­ Crimea, on a jjilgrimage to Jerusalem. el ben David Yemşcl, with three He sailed first to Istanbul thence via friends, set out from Koz lev ^ in the Rhodes to Alexandria, from which he travelled overland through Cairo to * Hebrew Kaia'i, plural Kara'im. I he name Jerusalem. After visiting the Holy of a Jewish set laht first appeared in Iraq and Places, he travelled northwards through Pei-sia in the gth cemury. Their original difTerciKc from the orthodox or Rabbanite Jews was their Nabulus, Daiirascus, Horns, Hama rejection of the Talmud, the Rabbinic tradition, and Aleppo to Antioch, and thence and the authority of the Rabbis. Tliey accepted across Anatolia to Istanbul, from the Bible as the sole repository of law and faith, and which he took ship for home. His original maintained tlie right of every believer to interpret intention had been to travel to Sinopc, it in the light of his own knowledge and unders­ and sail from there, but for reasons which tanding. The name is derived from the root Kara', which is common to both Hebiew and Arabic, appear below he changed his plans and with the double meaning of read and call. The proceeded via Istanbul. He remained significance of the name is not known with any in the Crimea until his death in 1674, certainty, though various suggestions have been and was buried in the Kar ai t c cemclry offered. Some authorities consider the word to at Çifut Kale. * mean summoner or missionary, corresponding to Arabic dd'L Others connect it with the Arabic The travels of Yenisei, like most KarrS -scripture-reader. The likeliest explanation Karaite literary works, arc written in is that connecting the name with the specific sense Hebrew. They first came light in 1690, of scripture study, common to both Hebrew and Arabic Kara'{c[. Hebrew Miha, the Bible, when King Charles XI of Sweden be­ Arabic Kıır'âıı). came inrcrested in the Karaites and sent In the Middle Ages the sect had a conside­ Gustav Pcringer - LiUicblad, Pro­ rable following among the Jews of the Middle fessor of Oriental languages in the Uni­ East, Africa and Spain, but from Crusading versity of Upsala, on a journey to times onwards it dwindled rapidly, and today study the Karaites of that country. On survives only in very small numbers. There are communities in Cairo and Istanbul, but now­ ^ This is the usual transcription of (he Heb­ here else in the Middle East, except for a small rew Y'MŞL. This is probably not a family name, number among the immigrants settling in Israel. but the initials of the Hebrew verse Tamiali'cd At the end of the 12th century Karaite immigrants mishkabö sâlöın 'He will rest peacefully upon couch' settled in the Crimea, and a century or so later Gurland,p.III). I'hc use ofsuch names composed established colonies in Poland and Lithuania, from initials was xcry common among Jews, From that time onwards the main centre of the ^ Kozlov or Gezlev, known in Russian Karaites was in Eastenrn Europe, where they as Eupatoria, was the main centre of the C rimea n spoke Turkish dialects. There is an extensive Karaites, and the residence of their spiritual chief modern scientific literature on the Karaites. Brief (Hâhâm). accounts and bibliographies will be found in the •' Carmoly ( p. joa 1 mistakenly asserts relevant articles in the Jewish Encyclopacdia, New that he was killed in the C'.hmelnitzky rising York, 1901-6, and the Encyclopaedia Jitdaica, Berlin, of 1648. In fact his tombstone was still to 1928-34 (not completed). A selection of Karaite be seen in Çifut Kale in the Clrimca in the literature in English translation will be found in igth century. The text of ihc inscrip­ Leon Nemoy, Karaite Anthology, New Haven, tion, inchiding some verses in Hebrew, 1952- was published by Gurland (IV-V), 3i6 BERNARD LEWlS his return to Sweden he published, among the writing of the manuscript is far from other things, a fragment of Yemşel's travels, clear, and that the reading \vhich he gives with a Latin translation (Upsala 1691), ^ for many names is conjectural. As well This fragment, consisting of about the first as my own readings, I have given an fifth of the work, was several times rep­ exact transliteration of the Hebrew spelling rinted, and in 1847 was published in a as given in the edition. It should be re­ French translation by E. Carmoly.^ So­ membered that the Hebrew alphabet me time later a unique manuscript of the has 22 letters, all of which are consonants complete itinerary was found in the Fir- though the juatres lectioniss, y, and w, as i n kowitz collection in St. Pctersburgh, Arabic, may sometimes be used as vowcLs and published by Jonas Gurland The following pairs of letters are inter­ in 1866, together with two other Hebrew changeable, being distinquished from one Karaite itineraries from Crimea, of 1654- another only by a single point, which is 5 and of 1785-6, contained in the same not normally written: BV, KH, PF, Tl\ manuscript.' All theree were reprinted by In addition, the folloving pairs arc of J. D. Eisensteinin 1926*. An abridged somewhat similiar shape, and may someti­ English translation of the first half of mes be confused when dealing with un- Yemşel's itinerary, as far as Cairo, fomiliar names: BK, GiN, DR, MS, YW. was inscluded by E. N. Adier in his The letter çdoes not exist in Hebrew, and Jewish Travellers (London 1930), is usually represented by ş. The following two ''xtracts contain Yemşel's itinerary is written with­ the first and last scctioj f the itinerary, out literary pretentions, and coniains and between them con^ ise about a qu­ no more than a bare account of what he arter of the total text. I'he first, dealing saw and did. Excetpt for some confusion with Yemşel's journey up to his arrival as to his route from Istanbul to Rhodes in Rhodes, was translated by both Car- he is generaly fairly accurate. His descripti­ moly and Adler. The second, covering ons arc brief and factual, and are probably the journey from Antioch across Anatolia reliable - except perhaps for the numbers to Istanbul and then back to the Cri­ he giwes for people, moscjues and shops, mea, is here translated, as far as I know, whic show a suspicious sameness from for the first time. place to place. His Hebrew style is plain The main dilTicuity of the itinerary and monotonous, not free from grammati­ through Turkey is of course the identi­ cal errors. Here and there he uses a fication of place-names in the Hebrew Turkish word. These I have given in transcription - a task not made any easier both transcription and transliteration. by the corruptions and errors introduced My soul yearned and longed for the by copyists and editors ignorant of Turkish courts of God, to ascend the mountains topography.^ Gurland remarks that of myrrh and the hill of frankincense to give thanks and to prostrate myself ' On this mission see fiunher H. Graelz, before the Lord God of Hosts in the bosom Gescliiclile der Jtiden, X, Leipzig, 18Ö2, n.5. "Die Könige von Schvedcn und die Kmâer", PF.311 ff. ° E. Carmoly, Ilineiaire de la Tene Sainle, traveller John Sanderson, whose travels of the Brussels 1847. years 1584-1602, were published in London 'Jonas Gtifland, Mue Dcii/cinaler der by Sir William Foster in 1931, to tlie judisclm Likraliir in Si. Petersburg, I, Lyck, 1865. two i6th century Arab travellers Ghazzi and ' J. D. Eisenstein, A Compendium of Je- Makki, examined by Ekrem Kâmil in Tarili ifisli Travels, New York, 1926. Semineri Dergisi, 1/2, 1937, pp. 3-90; and to » In attempting to folUow Yemşel's itine­ Professor A. Suheyl Ünver's study on the rary, I have relied in the main on the standard compaigns of Murad IV in Belleten, VXI, no 64, work of F. Taeschner, Das Analolisclte Wegenetz 1952, pp. 547-576. nach osmanischen Qiiellen, 2 vols, Leipzig, 1924- 10 Myrrh {Mor) and frankincense {Leböna) 6. Among itineraries that have subsequently are a pun on the Hebrew names of Mori ah (near come to light, reference may made to the English Jerusalem) and Lebanon. A KARAITE ITINERARY THROUGH TURKEY 317 of Jerusalem, may she speedily be rebu­ Mush ar rem Rcis " with our dear ilt in our days, and to fulfil my \-o\vs to friends, and waited two days on the ship. God. Then I heard that the honorable On the first intermediate day of the R. Isaac and the honorable R. Feast of Tabernacles we left Cons­ Solomon Levi were preparing themsol- tantinople with joy and good cheer vels to travel to the Holy Land, and for the ships bound for Alexandria when I heard this God awoke my spirit, about fifty large ships, I mean elli geinilcri^^ • saying: "Rise up and go thou loo!". And On the ship where we were, there were I could not hold myself back, nor was about a hundred Rabbani te 2° men and my heart content to sit in the shop and women, also intending to go to Jerusalem buy and sell, for a fire burned within me. and some of them to Safcd, and aboud At once therefore I sent a letter to R. five hundred Muslims. We sailed until Solomon Levi, to the town of Ivozlcv, evening, when wc came to the town of and we went on board ship on Thursday Gallipoli, where we stayed one day. the 14th Ab of the year 5401 ^^i July 1641]. We took with us Samuel, The town of Gallipoli is built on son of the honorable R. Moses David, the sea-shore and is surrounded by tlircc may his memory be blessed, and there walls. It is a very fine town. There arc also came with us Nisan of Lutsk. We Rabbani tc Synagogues, twenty five mos­ left on Thursday night and sailed for five ques, and hundreds of shops, where they days and then God raised a storm at sea, sell all kinds of goods and all kinds of fruits and the ship was about to break in pieces and delicacies. There are also a nummber and we made the shore of Rumeli a " of ships there equipped to protect the in gi-eat distress. Blessed be God, Who sa­ vessels bound for Egypt, for fear of the ved us. Grceks22. When wc left, these ships joined us and We stayed there for three days, and we sailed together, and in the afternoon then we left there and arn\'ed in Cons­ we came to the town of Bo gaz Hisar.^^ tantinople " on the 25 th Ab [ = i Aug In this place was a Kapudan called 1641]. We stayed there for forty eight Bekir Pasha with twelve galleys, to days, and spend the Day of Atonement escort the vessels and guard them lest the there, and on Friday the i ith Tishri 5402 Greeks harm them on the way. This was [=17 Sept. 1641] we left Constanti­ their custom every year, to cscoit the Eg- nople and came to Beshiktaş i", where we went on board the ships of MWHRMRYYZ. The feast of Tabernacles {Siikkot) is tlie autumn festival. It begins on 15th Thisri and " R.- for Rabbi, is used as an equivalent lasts a week. The first and last days of ihc week of Mr., and docs not necessarily mean thai the arc especially imijorlanl the inlermcdiale days person was in fact a Rabbi. less so, " The year of creation, according to the 1" 'LY GMYLRY. Jewish calendar, also used by (he Karaites. I'his i.e." ordinary Jews, not Karaites. and subsequent dates are not given figures bui in " GLYBWLVV. chronograms of Biblical verses. Tcıânîm, the classical Hebrew word " GDY 'WRWS. Carmoli reads Kudros, for Greeks. In Hebrew writings from Eastern the former Cytorus, in tlie province of Europe it is often used of the local Chris­ Kastamonu. I am inclined to read 'VVRVVS tians. It is possible that Yemşel is here as an enor for '\VRWA'I=URUM, (as later in referring to the Cossacks, who held Azov the text), and to connect tliename with Rumelia. from 1637 to 1642, or, more ]3robably to raiders GDY may be an ungrammatical use of the Heb­ from the Italian possessions in the Eastern Me­ rew Gadeh - shore. diterranean " QWSDYNH, " BWGWZ HYSR, " The great annual fast, obser\ cd o)i tlic " IÇPYDN, lotli Tishri, It is connected with the Muslim fast 2J BKYR PŞ', Ebu Bekir Pasha (d. 1G44 of Aşura',of the loth Muharrem. or 45) was Bey of Rhodes and later Kapdan-i " BŞKTŞ. Derya, Sijill-i Osmâni, I, i74- BERNARD LEWtS 3i8

yptian ships to Alexandria and then are vineyards and gardens and orchards to escort them back to Constantinople. and very many fruit - trees. The men of the ships greeted one another We went a litde further and passed with great rejoicing in Bogaz Hisar, the straits of Susam Ad asi where in honour of the Kapudan Bekir Pasha. the ships that had joined us at Gallipoli On our ship there was a dignitary called and elsewhere left us and went their way, Sha'ban Efendi who was an officer some to Susam Ada and some to Izmir^«. of Davul-hane and [his men] also We continued and came to the town blew on trumpets in honour of Bekir Pa­ of Sakiz but the ships did not touch sha. Every day they blew their trumpets in at Sakiz, as there was a favorable on the ship, and it was in this festive man­ wind. So we passed it by, and we saw the ner that we sailed all the way to Alex­ town from the distance, with its walls and andria. We left thei-c the same day, and vineyards and houses and gerdcns, which passed the straits of Bogaz Hisar and are very beautiful. We left there, and on came at midnight to an island called Friday evening we came to the town of Bozca Adası ^. The passage here is Rhodes. From Constantinople to R h od e s very narrow, and aii the ships were in one is 600 miles We rested the S a b b a t h 3» place side by side and crowled together, on the ship, and on Sunday we went and we were in great fear that night lest ashore and entered the town and saw the the ships collide with one another and walls and the markets and we went to break. Blessed be God who saved us, and the baths and enjoyed ourselves there. * allowed us to leave there without harm or damage. The White Sea is very great, Antioch " is a large town, with forti­ and in it there arc mountainous islands fied and very ancient walls. The town faces near to one another, so that it seems the plain, and behind it arc high moun­ as if one sees waves on the land. These tains around and above the town wall. are wonders of Almighty God - blessed be Only one part in four is inhabited; three He who showed us wonders. quarters of the town consist cf gardens and orchards, and one of houses. We went From Constantinople to Rho­ on from there and crossed many stream des 29 is like Istanbul Bogazi on the same day, perhaps twenty of them where the land can be seen on both sides and wc went up high mountains, all full on the eastern side Anatolia and on of stones, and then down into valleys, the vestern side Rumclia all vine­ until wc grew wcai7. "Who can relate yards. We continued and came to a village called Istanköy which is on the side of Rumeli a. Opposite, on the Anatolia 35 .SWSM 'DSY. »« 'ZMYR. side, is Kara Baglar ^\ where there " SGYZ. Yemsel's route as given hcic-Bozca Adası, Istanbköy, Susam Adası, Sakız, " :^'BN 'FYNDY. Rhodos-is clearly impossible. Sakız and Istan­ " DBWL HN'.—Davul-hane, or Tabl-hânc, köy seem to have changed places, while Medilli the military band orkculednims. Sec H.G. Farmer, is omitted. Furthermore, it is unlikely that vessels 'Tabl-Khâna',in Encyclolieadia of Islam .Su/)j)leiiml; proceeding Gallipoli to Izmir would go as Ismail Hakkı Uzunçarşılı,OJIHAH/I Dcilethm Tar south as'the Straits of Susam Adası. It is Saray Teşkilatı, Ankara, 194"), P-449 fl". possible that the text is corrupt in this place. =" BWHSH 'DSY. It seems however more likely, in view of the " Rwbws. other sigus of confusion in Yemşel's geography 3» 'STMBVVL BVVGY7,VV. in this passage, that the author himself is at fault, «' 'NDWL\V. probably through a failure of memory. 32 'WRVVS 'LY - read Urum Eli. In pro- Karaites and Jews alike refrain from tra­ nonring Rum as Urum, Ycmşcl follows a com­ vel and work on the Sabbath. mon Turkish practice. 40 'NTKY'. On the road from Antioch to " Q.VVY. Adana see Teesschncr, I,pp.i44-i5o;Kâmil, 2< KR' BGLR. p.2i. A KARAITE ITINERARY THROUGH TURKEY 319 the wonders of God, till tongues grow lik Kapisi It is a very dangerous weary of telling". road. We passed through there with the We travelled until evening and also help of God, may He be blessed, and for three hours of the nihgt, and we came came at evening to the village of Kurt to the village of Beylan This village Kulagi where there is an inn built is amid high mountains, and its houses by Rustcm Pacha We stayed are on the edge of the mountains because there qvernihgl and went on next mor­ of the water, for much water flows clown ning, and came to the river Ceyhun, the slope of the mountains and it is sweet, Which is one of the four rivers that came and flows through the village. There arc out of Eden. We came to a place called some shops there, some moscj[ues, and a Ceyhun Kalesi where there is fine inn, so that the village has the appe­ a small, old fort, which today is ruined. arance of a town . We stayed there over­ We came to the inn in Misis ^, which night, and then set out again on Friday. is by the river Ceyhun'a great and broad river like the Nile in Egypt. By the inn Wc crossed the mountains of Beylan there is a bridge across the river, with and four streams and passed a tower ten arches. The length of the bridge is which stands by the White Sea, and was one hundred and thirty cubits of KafTa, built by the Muslims to guerd the water and the breadth of the river is the same. and prevend the foreigners from coming We stayed there. I have never seen a and taking it. Wc went on from there, bridge like this on any of the rivers I have and passed by a willage on the sea-shore crossed until now. called iskenderun We went on from there until evening and came Wc went on from there and came to the town öf Pay as There are many to the tovn of Adana where wc sweet waters there, but they are not good crossed a bridgelonger than that of the to drink. It is ön the sea-shore, and Ceyhu n, perhaps one and a half times the Egyptian and foreign ships came there size. The river flows under the town and for it is the port for the town of Aleppo around the houses. We crossed the bridge They bring their goods and sell them, and entered the town, which has a small, and then they buy goods of Aleppo, fine fort, beautifully adorned. There arc and go. There is a small fortified M'all, a many houses and mosques. There are mosque, a bath, and about a hundred and also fitteen Rabbanite Jews, adnd they thirty shops, where they sell all kinds of have a Scroll of the Law '"^ in one house. Egyptian goods. We rested there The waters of the river came from the the Sabath. There arc many gardens KİZİ i Irmak There is an inn, where and orchards, opposite a tower on the sea-shore, beside the wall. From Aleppo « KRNLYK KPYSY. Also known as Demir to Payas is five days journey. The Kapı (Taeschner, 1,146). port of Damascus, Tripoli is three days " ICWRT KVVYLGY. journey away. •'8 HVVRVVSTM PŞ'. - Hui iistam Paşa. From there we travelled along the Ycni.^el is probably repioducing a local, dialec­ tical pronunciation. coastal plain until noon, and crossed se­ " GYHN KLHY-rcad KL'SY. This is veral streams on the same day, and then ruin is probably identical with the Yılan Kalesi we went up the mountain and came to mentioned by other travellers (Taeschner. I.145-Ö) a gate which is on a river, called Karan­ MY.SYS. According to E.Honigniann {EiK)'tlo/mtdia of Islam, s.v. Mi.şşış), the bridge at Misis has nine arclies. " 'DNH. On tlie road from Adana to dı HYLN. I amend the first letter to B. Ercgli seeTaeschner, 1,136-144; Kamil,22-O « 'YSKNDYRYN. That is, a manuscript .Scroll of the " 'KYNDY ikindi. Hebrew text of llic Pentateuch (Torah), " PYS. used for religions services. « 'SKL'-iskele. " KYZYL 'YRMK. BERNARD LEWlS 32o

we stopped for two days to rest ourselves to the river Kirk Geçit »s. We passed and to rest the horses. several high mountains on both sides, between which the river flowed. We pas­ We went on from there and came on sed more than forty crossings and cros­ the same day to the village of Çakit sed one very high bridge, which is in a in which there is an inn where we stayed narrow place. We went on and completed ovcrnihgt. Next morning we got up and the crossings. Near to an inn on the road continued our journey from there. Wc there is hot water coming out from be­ went up into high and lofty mountains, neath the mountain. Then we came to and passed springs and chams. There are a place called Çifte Han^^^, and steyad many great trees and a river flowing there overnight. Next morning the Rab- through the valley, and many sweet banite Jews got up and went their way, waters flowing down the slope of the mo­ for that is where the roads to Constan­ untain. We passed through the mountains tinople and Sinope part. and crevices down to the valley. If you climb up the mountain you cannot see When we came to Damascus wc the land below and if you go down below found a man there from the town ofKoz- you cannot see the mountain-top, for lev, called Kara Hasan", who was a ser­ these mountains are higher than the vant of Sultan Giray «^ and said mountains of Beylan and the mountains that he wished to travel with us. Wc ag­ of Payas; all torgues grow weary of reed, since he was better than anyone else telling. We travelled through these high and we were acquainted with him. We mountains and we came to a place called considered that if we went with a cara­ Giiiek Kalesi which is on a high van, they wouuld not go with us to S i n o p e mountain, and the people look from the and would not halt for us on the Sabbath mountain - top like birds. On the dow­ day. We therefore gave him two silver nward slope opposite the wall, there is pieces as a loan, and agreed to pay for an inn, where we rested over the Sab bath. his food and drink and also for the fodder A great river passes at the foot of the •of his faur horses, all so tliat we might mountain, and by an inn called Çauş not desecrate the Sabbath, which, God Han The inn was near, but we did not forbid. We also gave six silver pieces to go there because of the Sabbath. another man called Kazi «3, and he took There were also with us sixteen Rab- the money and ran away while wc were banitc T ews, among them R, Solomon? still in Damascus. We travelled with Sabbah, the merchant of King Baha­ Kara Hasan as far as Çifte Han, dır Giray Khan". They came upon the four of us, and Kara Hasan and us in Adana and joined us. On Sturday his servant. We had covered 23 days' evening we left there and travelled thro­ journey in thirty days, through dangerous ugh high mountains, where we rode witli ways, we were saved for the sake of our difficulty, for two horses could not pass holy forefathers. And this man, who had abreast but only in single file. The mo­ previously shown himself a good man, untains were as high and lofty as those turned into a serpent. Every day he qu­ we had passed the previous day. While arrelled with us, for he was a quarrelsome the sun was still shining we came down ICYRl^ KYŞY T. 69 SYFT' HN. 5^ ŞYKYT. 6» SYNP, On the ancient road ta the north " GYBLYK KL'SY. The cnieiidalion of cf. Tacschner, 1,144. one letter gives the name required by the conicxi. «1 KR" HSN, 5' Ş'Ş H'NY.A Çauş-hanı is mentioned >' SHWN GRY. The name is too corrupt by the 17th century pilgrim Mehmed Edip (Ta- to admit of reconstruction. The possible Sultans eschncr, I,i43,-cr.p.i4i,on Çauş - Köyü) would appear to be Bahadır. (1637-41), Inâyct " BHDYR GYRY H'N. Bahadir Giray (1635-37), Canbek (1627-35), Mehmed (1623- I, ruled from 1637-1641. Ycmşel heard the news 27). of his death while he was in Jerusalem. " KZY. A KARAITE ITINERARY THROUGH TURKEY 321

and disputatious man. We saw that the surroundings there ai-e many gar­ his intentions towards us were not dens and orchards, and there are mos­ good, and we thought : "It is not a ques. We set out from there at dawn and good thing that we are doing. Why sho­ we came to the village of Kara Pinar " uld wc endanger our lives by travelling where there arc two inns, facing one anolh- with a wicked man, who may join to­ ei', both fine and big. There is a mosque, gether with evil men and turn against with cold water from a fountain which us suddenly and do us some evil?". So has five steps, and a minarert built we said that wc wished to go to Cons­ by Sultan Selim. There is an alms- tantinople. He made a great quarrel hourc where food is given every day with us; he struck R. Isaac and also to guests. There ai'e a number of shops, struck R. Salomon Levi and drew a small fort, and a tower in a high place. his sword against him, and Solomon We stayed overnight in this place, which Levi also drew his sword and struck and is the limit of the land of Karaman cursed him. He made much trouble for From there wc set out on Friday and us, and also did evil things lo us, and he came to the village of? I neb The vil- took seven silver pieces from us. After Uagers came out to greet us, and each (hesc things wc abandoned what was in of them took three or four from among us his hands and we parted from him. and led them to his house. They have So we came to a village called Me li­ rooms for guests, since there is no separate med Pasha Hani''^ where there is a inn in this village, and this is their custom. very fine, big inn. We stayed there over­ They gave us food, and also straw, hay night, and joined with the Rabbanites, and barley for the horses and we on our who were fourteen men. We left there at side all gave them presents, according lo midnight, and took the road to Cons­ their honour and our sojourn there. Early tantinople, and came to the village of Sunday morning wc left there and tra­ Eregli where there is an inn built velled to the village of? Dutus'*, where by Bayram Pasha in which we sta­ we stayed overnight. The customs of the yed overnight. There arc a hundred and people of I neb, for there too there is no twenty shops there, seUing all kinds of special inn. fruit and foodstuffs and other goods. In From there we travelled to the vil­ lage of Bozok on the eve of Tuesday, the first of the month of Nisan of 5402 •» MHMT PŞ' HNY. Also known as Yeni (—12 th April 1642). There are two old Han. (Taeschner. I.T.15 and G*). inns, and we stayed there overnight. From •* 'RYGYLY. On the road from EregJi to K^ara Pinar to Bozok there are no gar­ Konya to Akşehir see Taescliner, 1,131-6 and dens or orchards. i29-3t. Yemşel seems to have taken a different route from those followed by the travellers studied by At midnight wc left Bozok and tra­ Taeschner. He began on the more northerly of velled until morning, and in the afternoon two routes from Eregli to Konya,biit after leaving we came to the town on Ilgin This Karapınar, instead of continuing through Gey­ ve and Ismil to Konya, he by-passed Konya, town is like Eregli. There are about a travelled through some villages where there were no inns, and rejoined the main road at Ugin. »' KR' KWYNR. We may amend the first A similar route was taken by makki (Kâmil, letter of the second word to either P or, preferably, B. p.30-31), who proceeded directily from Eregli M ŞDRVVN - Şadırvan. to Ilgin via the villages of Saruhan, Miskir MYN'R'- minare, and Bozok. Only in the third did he find inn 'iMRT - imaret. though not two, as Yemşel says. Wc may assume IÇRMN. that Yemşel and Makki followed the same route, '2 'YNB. but stopped at different villages. " DWTWS - perhaps the modern Tutup? «« BYRM PŞ'. Bayram Paşa was Grand '•1 BWZWK. Vizier in 1637-8. " 'LGYN. 21 BERNARD LEWlS 322 and which has seventy (sic) arches. We hundred and thirty shops, mosques, an followed the paved road for about three inn, and a cloth - market built by hours, and came to the village of Buia- Kara Mustafa Pasha the man vadin where there is an inn built by who conquered the city (sic) of Cyprus. Rus tern Pasha *S and a mosque, and There is also a bath there, where wa­ a bath. They sell meat, bread and fruit ter comes from underground, by God's there. We stayed there overnight. At that command, and they built the bath over time one of the Rabbanites said that there the water. There arc also many gardens is a town in RumeHa, and it is the town of and orchards. We stayed there that night. Hayrebolu, where there is a bridge bu­ There we continued our journey, ilt by one of the kings of Constantinop­ and came at daybreak to the town of le. It is very long and has 360 arches, and Akshehir a fine town built at the foot nobody can cross it in less than two or of the mountain, with a river passing th­ three hours in the winter. In summer it rough it. There are springs and clefts. is dry. We steyad tbei-e, and before midnight we At midnight we left Bui vadin and left there and came to the village of continued until morning, and when mid­ Ishakh*", where there arc gardens and day was near we came to the village of orchards, as in the town of Akshehir. Bayat 8". It is a halting - place, but we It is a halting - place, but we did not stay did not stay there. We covered two stages there, and travelled day and night, cove­ that day, travelling night and day, as we ring two stages, because of the Rabbanite had done on the previous day, and we Jews with us, calculating thatnat thermcxce stil.u l mountains. On Friday, to- ' • 1. remained eleven days travel _ to reach wards evening•^^u, befor.foree on onee o'clocko'clock, , wwee cam camee Constantinople, and only eight days to the village of Yeni Han built by to the feast of Passover. The Rabbanites Husrev Pasha and we rested there gave the owners of the hoi-ses twelve sil­ for the Sabbath, and the caravan re­ ver pieces to get us to Constantinople mained in the village of Bayat. Also the before Passover So we covered two baggage of the Rabbanites remained, with stages that day, and passed near by an inn, the owners of the horses, and some of and came to a paved road with flagsto­ them came with us and we rested there. nes because of the mud, since no one On Saturday the owners of the horses would be able to pass there in winter. Half came with the baggage of the Rabbanites way along the paved road there is a sort and they stayed overnight with us. of very long bridge, which wc crossed. On Sunday morning we left there " BBZZSTN - bezzazistan. and came to the village of S eyy idi Köy^*, " MSTF' PŞ'. Yemşel has probably confused Lala Mustafa Paşa, the conqueror " BWLWDY. of Cyprus, with Kemankeş Kara Mustafa " HWRWS'i'M PŞ'. It will be observed Paşa, who was Grand Vizier from 1637 to 1643 that Yemşel is consistent in his spelling of this i.e. during Yemşel's visit, name. " The baths of IIgin were known from " BYRBWLY. I amend the first B to H. Byzantine times. Hayrebolu is in the neigbourhood of the famous 'KŞHR. Onthc road from Akşehir to Eskişehir sec Taeschner. 1,124-6. Yemşel is 'long bridge'- Uzunköprü. KYT. K to B requires only a very small unusually informative on this stretch. The Arab travellers studied by Kâmil (p.32-43) proceeded change. " YGY H'N. from Akşehir to İznik by the more southerly ^ KWSRWB P'Ş'. Hosrev Paşa was route, via Afyon and Kütahya. Grand Vizier 1628-1631. The inn, founded in 8° SKYYGW. The emendation is drastic, but no other name is known for the stage between 1629, was generally known by his name (cf. Taesc­ Akşehir and Bulvadin. hner, I, 124). The spring festival, commemorating the «» SYYDY KWY. On Seyyidi Köy, bet­ ter known as Seyyidi Gazi, Yemşel gives Exodus from Egypt. " DWŞM' - döşeme. surprisingly detailed and accurate information. A KARAITE ITINERARY THROUGH TURKEY 323

where there are two inns. One is a At midnight we left there and came new one, Dilaver Pasha«° began to to the village of Eskişehir»^ where there build and did not complete, and then ca­ are four inns and a bath the waters of me Bayram Pasha and built it pro­ which are made hot by the wonder of perly. There are some shops where they God, may He be blessed. There is a spring sell bread and fruit. There is also a mos­ in front of the inn, from which hot water que. The mother of Sultan Alaeddin " flows. There are about a hundred and began to build it, but she did not finish thirty shops, and gardens and orchards it. Then the Mihalogullari " from before the village. We did not stay there, Rumelia built some of the building, though it is a halting - place, as we were but they too did not finish it. Later in haste because the days of Passover were it was completed by? Y a miliar drawing near. We went on from there and is a fine building. There is an alms­ and came to the village of Çukurşe- house" there where food is given to gu­ hir*®, where there is an inn in which wc ests. It was built two hundred years after spent the night. Then we came to the their prophet Muhammad and before the village o Bozüyük^"", which is also a kings of Constantinople**. In the mos­ halting - place, but we did not stay there, que is buried Seyyidi Battal"". The and went on to the village of Bazarcik^S length of his grave is as the height of three where there is an inn built by Kara men, and it is covered with silken garments Mustafa Pasha, in which we stayed. like the graves of the kings of Constan­ We left there at midnight and came tinople, with a linen turban at its head. to the village of Akbiyik"»», where there •The Muslims say that he conquered all the lands of Rumelia, and he was for­ is an inn built by Sultan Murad. It is merly from Osmancik". We stayed in a halting - place, but we did not stay the inn overnight. there, but continued until we came to the town of Iznik^"*. That day we covered three stages, travelling day and night, iz­ RYLW'R P'Ş'. A very small change will nik is a fine town, with a fortified wall, turn R into D. and surrounded by mountains on three " 'YYLTYN. sides. On one side of the town towards " MYHL'WGYLLRY. the west, there is much sweet water. Wc " YMLYLR. I am unable to suggest any stayed overnight, and left early next mor­ meaning for this name, the reading of which may well be erroneous. The last four letters seem to ning, and came to Gavur Köyü^°*, a contain the Turkish endings li-ler, but the first halting - place at which we did not stay. two letters do not yield any satisfactory meaning. Wc continued and came to the village of The name may possibly be connected with the DiF«, which is by the White Sea. A Jemalis or Jomails mentioned in a number tongue of seawater comes very far inland, of European sources. The 'mosque' of which Yemşel speaks is of course the famousBektaşI convent of Seyyidi Gazi. The Turkish sources »8 'SKY ŞHR. On the road from Eskişehir confirm that the convent was built by the mother to İznik via Yenişehir see Taeschner.I, 118- of Sultan Alaeddin, and extended by various 121. Yemşel's account offers no special features. members of the Mihaloğlu family. See K. Wul- »» ŞVVKVVYR ŞHR. zinger, Drei Beklaschi - KWsler Phiygiens, Berlin, "O BWZ 'WYWK. 1913. Inscriptions published by T. Menzel in i»i BZRGYK. . • T. Menzel in M.S.O.S. XXVIII/a,i925,p.92ff. 102 'KBYYK. cf. Taeschner. I, 119. " *YMRT - İmaret. 103 'YZNYB. On the route from Iznik to " By 'the Kings of Constantinople Yem­ Üsküdar via Dil and Gebze, see Taeschner.I. şel means the Ottomans Sultans. 110 - 2. The two Arab travellers studied by Kâmil »* SYYDY KMTL. I amend K to B and took the military road via Izmit. M to'. A description and pictures of the tomb GBYRKWYW. An Arab traveller quoted will be found in Wulzinger, p.29 ff. by Taeschner (I,iii and n.2.) gives the form " 'VVSM'NŞYN. I amend the final N to Gavur Köy, for the Christian village tommonly K. It will be remembered that Osmancık was known as Derbent. an important Bektashi centre. "5 DYL. BERNARD LEWlS 324 and that is why it is called Dil. A man recently built fine houses of varioi cannot go round it in one day. There are colours, with a fine garden in front. H boats ready to transport people from one also invited some of the good people o side to the other. We went on a boat with the community, as R. Benjamin Bij our horses and crossed to the opposite side and R-Solomon Biji andR. Samuel Bij of Dil, which is seven miles. There is an VVc enjoyed ourselves with them there inn where we stayed. At midnight we that day, and were treated with too much left there and continued until morning, honour. One day, R. Barukh Japhet and came to the village of Gebze '"^ and R. Elijah Sadik and R. Elijah It is a halting - place, but we passed by Hillel, surnamed Çelebi called for us and continued till evening^"", when we and took us to Hasköy, where we ate came to the town of Üsküdar ^"^j on Fri• and drank and enjoyed ourselves with day before the great Sabbath11 th them. May God - blessed be He - double Nisan (—22 nd April). We went on a their reward, amen. small boat called Kayik"" late Friday On Sunday, the 5 th of lyyar of the atfernoon, and we came to Constanti• year 5402 of the Creation (—16 th May nople. 1642) we sailed from Constantinople As soon as our brothers the Kara• on a ship, and after a voyage ites heard of our arrival, tliey came to of nine days we made shore at Balakla• greet us, and received us widi a most va on Wednesday. Praise be to God- friendly welcome. They escorted us to blessed be He - that we arrived safe and the house of R. Samuel Bij i may sound. God preserve him - and we stayed there. These were our journeys: from Egy• On Saturday the worthy young man R, pt to Jerusalem 15 days journey, with Soloman Biji, the brother of R. Afida, two or three Sabbaths, 18 days in all. of blessed memory, called for us, and took From Jerusalem to Damascus g days us to his house, where we ate and drank journey, including one Sabbath, from and enjoyed ourselves, and he treated Damascus to Aleppo 10 days, and us with great honour. On the first inter• from Aleppo to Constantinople 30 mediate day of Passover R. Elij ah Fuki days. called for us with his brother, the wealthy When we landed at Balaklava the Judah Fuki. They did us great honour, people of our community heard immedia• and we enjoyed ourselves there that day. tely, and a number of people came to the On Wednesday R. Joseph Maruli - town of Balaklava, and others, learned may God presei-ve him - called for us men, came halfway. When we came to and took us to Balat, to the house of the village of Eski Yurt many people R. David Suna, which he had just came, and we went on from there and built and which is as beaudful as a king's came to the spring called Nisf Hirka"^, palace. There we met some of the good where there were aged scholars and people of the community. On Thursday learned men and women all the R. Elijah Sadik, surnamed Sungas, people of the community. They had "all called for us, and took us to Has köy, come out to greet us, and they gave us a to the house of R. Benjamin, who had great welcome and did us too much ho• nour, and escorted us to our houses with BGYBYZY. By omitting the first letter, we get Geybize, an earlier form of Gebze. 'KYNDY - ikindi. SWLK. Perhaps an ungrammatical form K» 'WSKWDR. of the Hebrew root SLK - to go up, ascend. The Sabbath before Passover is known I" BLYKLY-Balîklî. Gurland notes that as the Great Sabbath. the name Balaklava is added in the margin of "0 KYB. read KYK. the Ms. The reading of this and other surnames of 1" *YSKY. YWRT. Karaites in Istanbul is conjectural. NYSF IJRÇ'. A KARAITE ITINERARY THROUGH TURKEY songs and music and pleasant singing. Hepreserve them from all suffering and May God - blessed be He - exalt their sorrow, keep them and adorn them and degree and double their reward. May magnify them, amen; and may He re• the Redeemer come in their days and joice them with the rebuilding of the temp• redeem us, and may He send a remedy le speedily in our days amen. for our affliction, that the verse may be Isaiah 6o.a2. The remainder of the verse fulfilled: "A little one shall becone a reads: "and a smaiU one a strong nation: the Lord thousand etc."ii6 May God - blessed be will hasten it in his time." DÜZELTMELER

Sayfa Sütun Satır Yanlış Doğru Ün ver 28.30 S. başlığı Derbil 37 sağ 23

37 sağ 26 II Keyhusrev I Keyhusrev 45 sol 5 8ıo H. 48 şol 33 910 H. matbahlar 48 sağ 34 mutbahlar Turgut Turut 49 sağ 20 sahife 9 a bakınız sahife 36 ya bakınız 53 98 Nolu notta Ahmet Rifat: Lugat-ı Ali Gevat, Memalik-i Os- 55 9 Nolu notta Tarihiye vc Coğrafiye maniyenin Tarih ve Coğ­ rafiye Lugâtı kemer mermer 65 sağ 38 67 sol 6

154 2 Nolu not 9 (j!)U:| 156 sağ 25 1^ 158 17 Nolu not şöyledir: Bak. Üsküb Tarihçesi, yazma, Topkapı Sarayı, Sultan Reşad No: 616 Muslahad-din Muslihu'd-din 162 sol 31 167 sağ 12 1600 16000 177 sol 32 Beyi Heybeyi Nazır Çelebi 179 sağ 5 Nazi Çelebi munsab 180 sağ 28 mansab 181 sağ 12 Blagay'ın 187 sol 3 Balagay'ın not rakkamı konacaktır. 187 sağ 35 den sonra 251 188 253 Nolu not 2 Karatozbeg Karagozbeg 190 sağ 37 Konije Konjie 195 sol 7 Konjie Konjie 195 sağ 20 79-80 70 - 80 Ciro 198 sol II Ciro 198 318 Nolu notta Sty Styx 200 sağ 14 881 981 203 331 Nolu notta 2 gösterilmiştir gösterilmemiştir 204 336 Nolu notta s. 72-271 s. 271 - 272 208 sağ 39 Wl 214 sol 5 Bonolukateyn Benalukateyn 214 402 Nolu not 2 Zemalskog Zemaljskog 214 403 Nolu notta

215 sol II Auersperg'ı Auspergar'ı 219 sağ 34 PaSın PaSına DÜZELTMELER 327

Sayfa Sütun Satır Yanlış Doğru

225 sol I zamandan beri zamandanberi 231 16 nolu notta G. ahar G. âhır 232 23 nolu notta G. ahar G. âhır 239 sağ 15 yetiştiğimiş yetiştiğimiz 257 sol 19 G. âhar G. âhır 259 sağ 9 Rabbikc Rabbiki 260 sol 30 "Lu'ey,, 260 sol 32 "Kilâb,, 282 sağ 21 yapmış yapılmış 293 başlıkta 4 Gel^gue Delegue 294 sol 6 Fondatiöns Fondations 294 sol 9 fondations Fondations 295 sol 36 propagatisn propagation