EXCLUSIVE Xcel Brands Buys Mizrahi for $31.5M

By VICKI M. YOUNG

ISAAC, MEET XCEL. Isaac Mizrahi has a new backer in Xcel Brands WWD Inc., which has acquired the designer’s licensing business for $31.5 million. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2011 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 At the same time as buying Mizrahi’s company, IM Ready-Made LLC, Xcel will go public through a reverse merger agreement with NetFabrics Holdings Inc., essentially a publicly held shell com- pany traded on the pink sheets. The newly merged entity, renamed Xcel Brands, will be a publicly held brand licensing and management company whose priority will be the acquisition of brands having a strong interactive media presence and the ability to utilize a multichannel distribution strategy. Under the terms of the Mizrahi agreement, Xcel COLLECTIONS will pay the designer $31.5 million at closing, which includes a combination of cash, a seller note and the 2012 issuance of Xcel common stock valued at $13.8 mil- PARIS lion. Xcel also agreed to an earn-out arrangement with the designer that calls for an additional amount SPRING up to $32.70 in cash or stock, subject to achieving cer- tain minimums in royalties generated by the Isaac Mizrahi trademarks over a four-year period. The acquisition marks a comeback for Xcel Brands’ chief executive officer Robert D’Loren — and the fourth backer for Mizrahi during his career. D’Loren is best known for securitization deals that to this day are still unparalleled in the intel- Darth lectual property field — and that have had a some- what controversial history. In D’Loren’s securitization deals, including the $25 million bond securitization of the Bill Blass trademarks in 1999, investment-grade bonds were backed by the income streams associated with the brand’s intellectual property. The cash flow from Victory accounts receivable are first used to pay operat- ing expenses, with the excess income earmarked to pay down the note. Hello, Mrs. Vader, is Darth home? No, but As president and ceo of NexCen Brands Inc., his Nicolas Ghesquière is, at Balenciaga. On former company acquired a number of consumer Thursday morning he staged a show that product companies and franchise industries, in- cluding Bill Blass, which it acquired in December was out of this world, even after a seating 2006 for $54.6 million. malfunction that saw several benches When consumers began pulling back on their spending early in 2008, that caused a cash crunch succumb to the communal weight of at NexCen. And while NexCen had disclosed the those settling in. No matter, the terms of its credit facility in regulatory filings, a crowd was asked to stand, and question arose whether there should have been greater transparency in connection with its bor- the request proved prescient, rowings to acquire Great American Cookies in as the collection dazzled. January 2008. By May 2008, NexCen was fighting Here, under the shade SEE PAGE 2 of a Cristóbal-inspired chapeau, Ghesquière’s IN WWD TODAY cellophane dress. For more on the Paris collections, see pages 4 to 6.

Beauty Brands Bullish on Duty FreePAGE 7 BEAUTY:Despite a wobbling global economy, the mood was upbeat at the Tax Free World Association meeting in Cannes, with projections that beauty sales will grow in the high-single to low-double digits this year. ▲

Miyake’s New ManPAGE 2 FASHION: Yoshiyuki Miyamae will show his first women’s line for Issey Miyake on Sunday, and the designer admits the March earthquake in Japan had a big impact on his designs.

Suite Dior StylePAGE 9 EYE: The St. Regis hotel in New York has another fashion tie-up, this time creating the Dior Suite — and guests can stay there for a mere $8,500 a night. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2011 WWD.COM Miyamae Readies Miyake By AMANDA KAISER Mizrahi Sold to Xcel {Continued from page one} changes for Mizrahi, first with Chanel until they TOKYO — In post-March 11 Japan, a new sense of values is taking hold. to survive as it suffered a liquidity crisis. Five parted company in 1998, and then a collection at Behind the country’s archetypal stoicism and resilience, the shock of its months later, D’Loren resigned from the firm. Target that ended in 2008, even though annual biggest-ever earthquake, tsunami and nuclear crisis has left many seek- NexCen began selling off its holdings, includ- volume was estimated at $300 million a year. ing a closer affinity with what they hold dear, stripping away veneers of ing Bill Blass, which was sold to Peacock The colorful and opinionated Mizrahi pure presentation. International Holdings for only $10 million in has a daily Web series featuring his It’s this kind of motivation that has steered Yoshiyuki Miyamae, cash in December 2008. take on cooking, style and fashion, at newly installed at the head of women’s design at Issey Miyake, as he According to a NexCen quar- watchisaac.com. There’s also a media finalizes preparation for his runway debut on Sunday. terly filing, or Form 10-K, with presence via isaacmizrahiny.com, Miyamae, 35, started working on his first collection for the label as the Securities and Exchange where visitors to the site can headlines about the aftermath of the March 11 earthquake and Japan’s Commission in August 2010 for the watch the designer’s video blogs. ongoing economic woes were streaming across television sets and news- quarter ended June 30, the Mizrahi’s licensing business paper pages. “It had a great effect,” he recalled in an interview at the enforcement division of the includes the lifestyle collection, company’s all-white headquarters. SEC after a two-year in- IsaacMizrahiLIVE, which is “I wanted to look forward, to make clothes that people could feel in vestigation said it sold at home shopping special- their hearts. So I didn’t think about the shape or things like that, but did “not intend to ist QVC, and Liz Claiborne New more about why people would actually wear the clothes and how they recommend” any York, also sold at QVC, in which would feel [in them]. I thought about how it would feel when the wind action by the SEC. Mizrahi is the creative direc- blew inside the clothes, how [it feels to wear] certain colors,” said the Securitization tor per a design agreement. The designer, who crafted billowing tunics, dresses and pants in Easter egg issues won’t be main Liz Claiborne line, in which hues of lemon, turquoise and print pink. a problem for Mizrahi has no involvement, is “The theme was about the softness and strength of a flower when it D’Loren’s latest sold exclusively at J.C. Penney. blooms. [The collection] expresses ways to show a woman’s body in a brand acquisition, Market sources estimate that beautiful way,” he explained. which is a straight royalty income for Mizrahi totals Miyamae got an early start in the fashion world, taking apart jackets asset purchase of at least $10 million annually. and stitching up things for himself when he was 16 and in his first year the trademarks. Mizrahi’s high-end Collection of high school. “I hated my school uniform, and that was why I started Mizrahi, who line, not part of the Xcel acquisition, making my own clothes,” he recalled. will serve as chief Isaac Mizrahi will likely be phased out and repo- Around that same time, he developed a taste for the art world and designer, said, sitioned as a licensing business. He through a gallery connection he met Miyake. “He knew that I was making my “We’ve spent nearly a year working closely has shown that collection in the past during New own clothes and he remembered me as a somewhat unusual high school stu- with Bob D’Loren and look forward to joining York Fashion Week but did not show this season. dent. So from then on I got a lot of information from Issey-san, and I was also him at Xcel. I’m pleased to be such a signifi- Current plans are for additional licensing personally very interested in his work,” said Miyamae, dressed in a crisp cant shareholder in the company, and believe agreements for different apparel lines, foot- white shirt, three-quarter-length indigo pants and white high-top sneakers. that we are poised for growth.” wear and home categories to launch at better The designer went on to study at Japan’s prestigious Bunka Fashion The transaction is the latest in a series of retailers in fall 2012. College before taking a few years to travel to locales like South America and India and design costumes for contemporary dancers. Upon his re- turn to Japan, he joined Miyake’s design studio and nurtured a 10-year career at the house. H&M Profit Slips 15 Percent in Quarter Working under the tutelage of Miyake himself as well as the house’s previous designer Dai Fujiwara, Miyamae has acquired a keen sensibil- PARIS — Hennes & Mauritz AB said net profit “We have a strong business concept, a ity to fabric and the craftsmanship behind it as well as a mission to sup- fell 15 percent in the third quarter as economic strong financial position and we are continu- port the Japanese textile industry, which is suffering as factories close uncertainty and bad weather kept customers out ing to grow with high profitability. We are in- and fewer young people enter the trade. of stores in key markets, triggering intense price creasing our expansion for full-year 2011 to “Before I entered the company, there was a time when I thought that competition between fast-fashion retailers. approximately 265 stores, from the original as long as you had an idea and could draw a design, you could be a de- Though its margins have come under pres- planned 250,” he added. signer. But when I joined this company, I learned about fabrics, colors, sure, the Swedish retailer said it had gained The company is opening more stores than the area where something is made, and experiencing these things with market share and planned to ramp up the rate expected in China, Romania and Croatia. It the body. Until now that’s the biggest thing I’ve learned,” he said. of store openings before the end of the year. recently opened its first store in Singapore In keeping with that sensibility, for his debut collection Miyamae In what is likely to come as a disappoint- and will add Morocco and Jordan by yearend, used a traditional screen printing machine in Kyoto to apply abstract ment to U.S. consumers, however, H&M has followed by Bulgaria, Indonesia and Thailand geometrical patterns to high-tech fabrics like poly cupra. Buttons were decided to delay the launch of its e-commerce in 2012. fired at a ceramic factory in the southwestern island of Kyushu. site there by around six months to fall 2012. Gross margin fell to 58.6 percent in the The designer indicated that the Issey Miyake label is in for a rather “We need more time for such a big project. third quarter from 60.5 percent at the same subtle evolution rather than a radical departure from the Fujiwara years. We want to make sure everything is in place time last year, squeezed by higher purchasing “The importance of materials, thinking about the future rather than to ensure the best possible reception,” Nils costs due to inflation in sourcing markets, high about shape or something like that. That’s something that I also really Vinge, head of investor relations, said during cotton prices and a negative U.S. dollar effect. feel as a member of this company,” he said. “The base is the same for ev- a conference call. Vinge noted cotton prices have come down eryone, but the top layer is different between each person, so it depends During the three months ended Aug. 31, net since March, but remain historically high. of which of those things you look at.” income fell to 3.59 billion Swedish kronor, or H&M had published preliminary data For sure, Miyamae is taking charge of one of Japan’s most storied $564 million, from 4.24 billion kronor, or $564 showing third-quarter sales excluding VAT labels at a time when the entire country is doing its share of soul search- million, during the same period in fiscal 2010. amounted to 26.91 billion kronor, or $4.2 bil- ing. The designer seems to be taking advantage of that moment to distill Dollar amounts are calculated at average lion, versus 26.89 billion kronor, or $3.6 bil- his vision into its most useful, enduring form. exchange rates for the periods in question, lion, during the same period a year earlier. “Everyone, including myself, is really thinking about whether or not which saw sharp currency fluctuations. Though it maintained markdowns broadly the work he does is right. Until now it was all about price or convenience “H&M continues to gain market share in a stable versus last year, H&M described the — like with fast fashion — but people are now really thinking about what challenging environment for the fashion retail high street as increasingly cutthroat. is necessary,” he said. “Quality things will last [into the future], and that is industry,” stated chief executive officer Karl- — Joelle DiDerich, With now much clearer than it was before. It’s a great chance for us.” Johan Persson. contributions from Alex Wynne

toDay on WWD.CoM To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is SeCtorS in thiS iSSue [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ■ EYE: See more pictures from Gareth COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. BUSINESS 1,2 fRAgRANCE 8 Pugh’s Absolut Vodka bottle party at VOLUME 202, NO. 68. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except fAShION 2,4,5,6 mEdIA 9 Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two Club Silencio, more pictures from HBO’s additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, TRAvEl RETAIl 7 pEOplE 10 “Latino List” and Rachel Hovnanian’s which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Ravage Beauty at WWD.com/eye. Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial ■ RUNWAY: See the latest collections, Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional backstage, front-row and party pictures from mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Daily Quote Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O .Box 503, Paris Fashion Week at WWD.com/runway. RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR ■ ACCESSORIES: More pictures from DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Paris Hilton’s new handbag collection 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as I try to confront our at WWD.com/accessories-news. printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or ■ BEAUTY: More from the Tax Free up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us obsessions as a culture World Association annual meeting at know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR WWD.com/beauty-industry-news. DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or with beauty and youth via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Lindsay Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our Lohan subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe and Photoshopping would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT hane Feugere

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DIRK STANDEN OF STYLE.COM & STYLE.COM MAGAZINE // INDUSTRY LEADER AND LOYAL READER REACH EVERYBODY WHO’S ANYBODY IN FASHION 4 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2011

Balenciaga Balenciaga Rick Owens Nina Ricci

Rick Owens

PARIS:Inspired by everything from architecture to Sixties coutureDAY to Patti Smith, designers kept things freshTWO and exciting on the runways.

Balenciaga: “Sorry, sorry,” a clearly emotional Nicolas Cristóbal Balenciaga. In a conversation on Wednesday, thought). “Space between the body and the fabric” Ghesquière mouthed while taking his bow after his he explained this season’s research. “I don’t know if implies big, and these clothes featured grand Balenciaga show on Thursday morning. Sorry for what, oversize is the right term for that type of construction,” proportions, beginning with high-shine, round- Nicolas? Obviously, the apology was for the collapsing he said. “But this famous, and for me, a very shouldered jackets that looked far more substantial benches that fell like tasteful horizontal dominos as the functional, concept of Cristóbal is the idea of the space than their light-as-air reality. They came in graphic room filled up. After three or four crashes, and before between the body and the fabric. The clothes float color plays over wide but otherwise teeny-tiny anyone got hurt, knock (lacquered and splintered) away from the body. It’s one of the big iconic things shorts, over blouse-matching undies peeking out for wood, a female voice over the p.a. system asked in two of Balenciaga. The fluidity of floating is beautiful, propriety’s sake. The dress range impressed, whether languages for everyone to stand and watch the show but it is something else. An architectural piece in ottoman knits in seemingly simple structured fully upright. floating around the body is very structural. I think it’s T-shirt shapes or complicated fabric collages, worn Happily, the falling seats proved the second-most something that Balenciaga invented.” with updates of the hats with exaggerated, downward- memorable part of the proceedings, trumped big-time Balenciaga invented, and Ghesquière reinvented, sloping brims that Balenciaga introduced in 1967. Who by the clothes. Here was a tour de force of structure, the concept with this collection, infusing it with his knew he’d presaged Darth Vader? Ghesquière also volume and high chic. “Real fashion,” one astute own bravado and Space Age-industrial cool in a offered a new jeans silhouette — really — with pleat- journalist said, exiting the show. And how. manner which, for all its audacity, provided a perfect cum-beltloops, and for dress-up, a pair of cellophane- Talking fashion with Ghesquière is fascinating, framework for clothes that should play fabulously skirted wonders. Sorry, Nicolas? For what? Certainly particularly when he gets going on the precepts of at retail (cheeky runway shorts not included in this not this inspired display of real fashion.

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Nina Ricci COLLECTIONS Nina Ricci Ann Demeulemeester PARIS SPRING 2012

Ann Demeulemeester

ere G hane Feu P te For more s reviews, see WWD.com/ runway. Giannoni and Giovanni by Photos

Rick Owens: Sometimes what you see is what you get. Nina Ricci: “Very chic, very French.” That’s how Peter Copping has carved a strong yet challenging niche “There’s no irony. It’s not particularly witty. There’s no Copping described his spring collection for Nina Ricci. for himself at Nina Ricci. Every now and then, bolder menace. This time, it’s really pure, simple grace,” Rick He might have added charming, as, in what is shaping evolutionary strides from one season to the next will Owens said during a preview the day before his spring up as a strong, diverse Paris season, he offered some of be essential if he’s to retain the excitement factor. show. Not that he has been known to play coy, but his its most unabashedly flirtatious clothes. But one cannot deny the appeal of these clothes for thoughts were particularly astute. On the runway, Like others this season, Copping is thinking haute the woman who wants to be ladylike and sexy at the his aesthetic was distilled with absolute confidence, — “Sixties couture, if you like” — but unlike those same time. which is what distinguishes him from the Gothic going the power-architecture route, his approach was monastics who have followed suit. Owens believes in all feminine, from the curvy, lacy bejeweled clothes Ann Demeulemeester: Though she may be a brooding his look 100 percent. to the straw cage hats, which, he said, recalled the Belgian, Ann Demeulemeester is not a one- PARIS:Inspired by everything from architecture to Sixties coutureDAY to Patti Smith, designers kept things freshTWO and exciting on the runways. Maximal in its austerity, the silhouette was founded days when Alexandre de Paris, rather than Guido dimensional designer. There’s a soft side to her on “pillar” skirts — long, slim columns in black, white Palau (who did his models’ hair) ruled the Paris darkness that can yield some of her most creative and a terra-cotta tone, slit extra high in the back for beauty scene. Starting with constructed lingerie, and breathtaking work. Her spring show, directly thought). “Space between the body and the fabric” maximum ambulatory effect. Owens said he liked the Copping showed suited looks and dresses, both full- descended from her most recent men’s collection, implies big, and these clothes featured grand idea of presenting the head like a Brancusi sculpture, skirted and hourglass, in laces, cloqués and printed was a masterful blend of poetic influences: the North proportions, beginning with high-shine, round- an effect achieved through broad tops with shapes jacquards. He embellished with delicate patchworks African desert, the military, the American west shouldered jackets that looked far more substantial similar to garment bags cut to accommodate arms and and encrustations of high-sparkle embroideries. And and vintage Patti Smith. They came on melancholy than their light-as-air reality. They came in graphic head. Others shirts were more fitted with slim sleeves lest it all swing too precious, he incorporated the beauties, nomadic yet elegant in gauzey layers, color plays over wide but otherwise teeny-tiny and extreme bell cuffs. It was deliberately modest occasional biker twinge, albeit gentled up in a short broken down tailoring and wide-brimmed, floppy shorts, over blouse-matching undies peeking out for but the shapes, inspired by Sixties couture, were jacket over a cocktail or a pale leather trench. leather hats. propriety’s sake. The dress range impressed, whether undeniably elegant. And as Owens said, wherever About the prints, which worked the fresh side of There was ample black but some of the most in ottoman knits in seemingly simple structured elegance is, sexuality isn’t far behind. retro, they came from the archive Zina de Plagny, after stunning looks were done in ivory and blushing T-shirt shapes or complicated fabric collages, worn The twist came in the plain, basically utilitarian whom Copping named his collection and who’d done a nudes on sheer fabrics, languidly draped and worn with updates of the hats with exaggerated, downward- fabrics, such as cotton duck and leather, craftily great deal of work for the house founder. In a moment in combination with wide-leg pants and embroidered sloping brims that Balenciaga introduced in 1967. Who worked into impressive graphic patchwork jackets. of celestial alignment of the sartorial sort, Copping jackets. There were caftanlike gowns and sheer robes knew he’d presaged Darth Vader? Ghesquière also It brought the grandeur down to earth without saw an article on de Plagny’s daughter and keeper of that dramatically swept over wide-leg pants with silk offered a new jeans silhouette — really — with pleat- losing impact. “I always resented the idea of radical her archive. He intended to contact her, but she found fringed tassels around the neckline and back, an effect cum-beltloops, and for dress-up, a pair of cellophane- silhouettes or exaggeration being confined to the him first. He took his patterns directly from de Plagny, that continued throughout whether as an accent or skirted wonders. Sorry, Nicolas? For what? Certainly runway,” Owens said. “That kind of extremity should gentle florals memorable in contrast with all of the a statement, as in a spectacular fully fringed coat. A not this inspired display of real fashion. be accessible all day long.” season’s screamers. dose of hippie in the most graceful way.

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Balmain Carven Sharon Mugler Wauchob More Paris Fashion Week coverage at WWD.com/ runway.

Manish Arora

aitre m

ominique d

COLLECTIONS 2012

PARIS Giannoni and Giovanni

SPRING Jean-Paul by Rue du Mail Lespagnard Photos

Balmain: Viva Las Vegas…and budding minidresses, the flowers sprouting gold crafted from colored laces and vibrant rough, organic part. That’s to say it was young fashion talent. In an assured chains at their stamens. ikat-style fabrics. Within a strong all quite sexy and slick, but at the same debut at the house of Balmain, 26-year- Before the show, Rousteing said he lineup, the high points were the frocks, time bland. Once Gaga loses interest, old Olivier Rousteing continued to carry finds it important to absorb the whole culminating in a sharply pleated black, one wonders if this collection will have the torch for all the things for which his of the house’s heritage, including pink and yellow patterned dress with a any relevance. predecessor stood, minus the grime and collections by its last couturier, Oscar smocked neckline. plus a glimmer of sunshine. de la Renta. Asked if he saw himself Jean-Paul Lespagnard: One to watch from Before exiting the fashion house as a budding Nicolas Ghesquière, Sharon Wauchob: Sharon Wauchob, who has the wacky Belgian tribe is Jean-Paul after a six-year stint in March due to who started out as a hidden talent at a long-standing love affair with lace, used Lespagnard. In his sport luxe romp, health problems, Christophe Decarnin Balenciaga, Rousteing exclaimed: “I can it to the max this season in a collection he reworked basketball uniforms into sent Balmain down a rock ’n’ roll path only cross my fingers and hope for such centered on lingerie-inspired pieces. The elegant garb inspired, according to with thigh-skimming dresses, big- a career!” designer opened with a series of white the show notes, by a fantasy dinner shouldered jackets and lean jeans — matte and iridescent silk shirtdresses, he imagined for basketball players all gilded to the hilt and destined for Rue du Mail: Martine Sitbon is on a roll. tops and lean pants licked with dégradé at Hearst Castle in California. There some overpriced nightclub in Moscow Following up on last season’s strong stripes of color, which at times looked were chic wide pants made out of or London. “It’s still superrich and showing, she once again scored with a iffy. The real story was in a range of tracksuit fabric in a stained glass superglamorous,” Rousteing, who transporting collection that played to whimsical black and white lace slips window-like print composed of photos worked at Decarnin’s elbow since 2009, one of her beloved themes — the Ballets mixing organic motifs, which, swishing of basketball stadiums. Oversize shorts assured during a preview. “It will be Russes — done with a modern attitude. with long silk threads, gave an organic were reworked in soft chocolate leather an evolution.” She opened with graphic black and grass skirt-meets-Twenties flapper twist. and sweatshirts morphed into elegant Rousteing said he wished to turn white ensembles worked with artsy lines kimono jackets. While technically the page from hole-riddled T-shirts of fringed silk, jagged appliqués and Mugler: Even when she’s not there, Lady gifted, Lespagnard just can’t resist and tattered jeans to play up Balmain’s gently fanning diagonal pleats cut on the Gaga is the main attraction at Mugler. being a little offbeat. sophisticated couture roots. To be bias. Folksy dresses in Mediterranean She didn’t actually attend the spring sure, his ode to Sin City — crossbred colors inspired by peasant wear and show, but it opened with a film by Inez Manish Arora: Manish Arora says his new with bullfighters — exalted the house’s caftans were divine, notably an indigo van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin gig as creative director of Paco Rabanne ateliers with dense, 3-D embroideries chiffon dress with hand-smocking in which Gaga appeared, pigtailed and is making him rethink his eponymous paving snug matador jackets, and details. A run of voluminous dresses in buck-toothed, repeating “Don’t f--k line. “Paco Rabanne is making me go embossed gold or black leather married lightly waffled fabrics in soft shades of with Mugler” on a zany but hypnotic all the way, so I’m now trying to make seamlessly with white suede for blazers terra-cotta and blue had the grace of loop. Her connection to the brand, Manish a little more ‘believable,’ ” the or bustiers. couture gowns. through Nicola Formichetti, Mugler’s Indian designer explained, noting that But Rousteing also suggested a wider creative director, has made it a new he used black, white and skin tones for fashion vocabulary for his Balmain, Carven: Guillaume Henry kept up the media sensation. But it seems to be a the first time. But restraint is clearly parading some sweeping button-front momentum as the head of a label carving one-way symbiotic street. The clothes, in the eye of the beholder. From the skirts in pale denim, and loose leather out a niche for creative, affordable chic. designed by Sébastien Peigné, remained moment Rossy de Palma opened the pants he playfully called “joggings.” This time, the designer caught the travel secondary to the hype. show in a holographic silver bustier The designer didn’t travel to Nevada for bug, mixing mountain folklore — from The collection began as a science dress, there was barely a surface that inspiration, instead researching Nudie the Bavarian Alps to the Himalayas fiction-tinged sea of beige and white was not laser-printed, sequined, cross- Cohn, who created stage costumes for — into his Parisian mademoiselle body-conscious shapes with curved, stitched, embroidered or fringed. country-and-western performers in the aesthetic. In the former camp, he took asymmetric cuts and cutouts. There was Arora also unveiled a new line of Sixties. Besides channeling the obvious elements of traditional dirndl dresses a futuristic yet prehistoric quality to jeans produced in collaboration with glitz of casinos, Rousteing also referenced and lederhosen to give high-waist shorts the jackets and skirts that were short in French premium denim brand Notify, less glamorous Vegas surfaces: motel and leather miniskirts a new twist, and front and long in the back but resembled in variations ranging from fluorescent wallpaper patterns worked into in added saucy peekaboo holes on the rawhides. They had something in dégradés to a psychedelic print. His white cloqué jeans and blazers; tattered chest of prim shirts and frocks. The look common with what Raquel Welch wore brand of kitschy exuberance is in a floral bedspreads worked into sexy progressed into more exotic variations in “One Million Years B.C.,” minus the league of its own.

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For in-depth coverage, see WWD.com/ beauty beauty-news. Travel Retail Finds Silver Lining in Asia al. there’s so much energy put into social By Pete Born and Jennifer Weil climbing. the whole region is aspirational.” fischer said the Chinese have honed CAnneS, france — thank goodness for Asia. their shopping lists with pinpoint accura- that was the collective sigh of relief cy about what they want to buy. “But the heard throughout the packed aisles of the russians are strollers,” he added. Outside the Palais des Festivals. Palais des festivals here last week during “the SK-ii business in Asia is up one of the busiest and most upbeat tax 40 percent,” said Carolyn tastad, vice free World Association annual meetings president of Prestige Global Market of $6.51 billion this year, up 14.1 percent caused the brand’s business to spike 70 in recent years. there may be storm clouds operations at Procter & Gamble Co. against the same prior-year period, accord- percent in the location. over the worldwide economy, but beauty’s for its part, Shiseido has responded ing to industry tracking firm Generation. Kay Spanger, a member of Heinemann’s $12 billion global travel retail business to the boom in Asia by refining its prod- Whether that growth can be maintained board, said the retailer could create a continues to grow in the high-single or low- uct assortment under the strategy of “big- given the uncertain economy was a ques- similar boutique with lacoste. the Boss double digits — and it’s Asian consumers ger, better, longer.” one example is its tion weighing on the mind of every execu- Choice promotion with P&G was a wel- who are fueling the industry’s optimism. specially conceived kits — like one con- tive at the fair. olivier Bottrie, president of come improvement on an area where he “i am driving a car. i know there are taining a serum and an eye and lip cream travel retailing worldwide at estée lauder feels the beauty industry is lagging behind hurricane warnings, but it is still sunny priced at more than $500 — selling like international, was one of many to dismiss the liquor and confectionery categories, and i am pushing ahead,” said laurent hotcakes on China’s Hainan island. the financial storm hovering overhead. He although beauty was the pioneer of the en- Boillot, chief executive officer of lVMH “today, the Chinese and Korean cus- emphasized the resilience of the travel-re- tertainment concept 10 years ago. Moët Hennessy louis Vuitton-owned tomers are looking for these types of sets tail market in times of great stress and said, “We cannot increase our business only out Guerlain. “there will be a time to hit the with high values,” said Ariel Gentzbourger, “So far we have seen nothing. if something of new products,” he said, adding that some brakes, but not now.” senior vice president of Shiseido europe. happens, we will possibly adapt a little bit. upcoming strategies include working with “We’re going to have a very sound dou- Sets generate more than 40 per- Business is very strong everywhere. We are Beauté Prestige international by showcasing ble-digit growth worldwide. it’s driven cent of the company’s business with hoping for a very strong year.” the company’s four designers, who hail from by Asia,” continued eric tarral, l’oréal’s Chinese customers. Bottrie was referring to lauder’s cur- four different countries. Spanger is also open travel retail worldwide managing director, Although today Asia has been just a rent fiscal year, which began on July 1. to combining brands and has also conceived who added there are more Chinese travel- sliver of the global fragrance market, “our overall vision is to try to in- a “Specially Made by Heinemann” campaign ing outside of their home country, and that enrico Ceccato, president and ceo of crease brand awareness, in-store pene- that involves the operator’s name appearing they’re willing to consume luxury brands. Perfume Holding, predicted that in a tration and conversion, to make a visitor on special-edition products from any of the in China, l’oréal ranks first in the luxury decade there will be an explosion of fra- a shopper,” he explained. categories sold in travel retail. beauty segment, according to the company. grance consumption in China. one example offered involved “geo- Heinemann, whose business is up 14 “it is a close fight,” said nicolas every year, erik Juul-Mortensen, tfWA fencing.” As part of a two-week promotion percent this year, is expanding its invest- Hieronimus, managing director of the president, sets the stage for much of the for the idealist illuminator product in the ment with the addition of 111,111 square french beauty giant’s luxury Products talk that ensues during the trade show. U.K., communication with the customer feet of extra space throughout its network. Division, acknowledging competition from this year, with the theme, “A Brand new began way before the airport. lauder other travel-retail operators are tapping the estée lauder Cos. He added, “Globally World,” he turned attention to the use of so- plastered huge billboards in english and into digital ways to reach their consumers. At DfS, for instance, they are using “e-pr” campaigns, plus twitter, facebook, Weibo A Tom Ford ad with the historic Inside the Palais. and other types of microblogging to drive Majestic Hotel in the background. people into stores. there is also a blog where people can write about their in-store experience once they get home. “We have had great results with digi- tal marketing and will definitely continue with this approach,” said linda Allario, vice president, general merchandise manager, beauty, at DfS. Among its recent strategies, the op- erator has focused on developing high- end skin care brands such as la Mer, la Prairie and Guerlain. “Another category that is trending well is the well-being category, which we have aggressively pursued the past few years by rolling out such brands as l’occitane, Kiehl’s, origins and Jurlique,” continued Allario. Swiss airport operator the nuance the luxury market is doing very well. the cial media and digital technology to attract in Chinese along Cromwell road leading Group has also been ramping up its se- cosmetics luxury market is going to grow customers to the airport stores and make to Heathrow. then travelers were met lection of well-being positioned beauty this year at around 7 percent, probably. So purchases there. the need to increase pen- by light-box displays and the communi- products, stocking names such as nuxe we’re pretty confident for this year. Since etration has been a hot topic for years. cation loop was completed on arrival at and Dr. Brandt, while giving big skin care the summer, we haven’t seen any significant “this industry has to catch up,” he said, terminal 5 with a text message popping brands more space. nuance is earmark- slowdown or change in the growth pace. We citing Yo utube and flash mobs as useful up on their phones about idealist sent by ing more space for masstige treatment see that the market is growing everywhere, ways to reach consumers, even before they lauder’s travel-retail shop. brands, explained Alexander Anson- but clearly you have some parts of the world arrive at the airport. “there’s nothing stop- Social media also played a role in the esparza, its buying, merchandising and which are growth relays, some parts of the ping us from doing this in travel retail.” launch of P&G Prestige’s Gucci Guilty, which marketing director europe. world which are in recovery and one part of Juul-Mortensen added, “A failure to took place in fall 2010. the 3-D commercial “nivea, for instance, is developing the world that is a slow growth area, which is collaborate on passenger information ran on tV and Yo utube, plus holograms in special travel-retail sets,” continued mainly Western europe. Western europe is [with the airlines] is still holding us back travel-retail stores gave the introduction Henrik ottosson, category manager per- growing at a sell-out of plus one or plus two.” as an industry.” an extra edge and helped double the Gucci fume and cosmetics for nuance. He said the north American market is in He said the technology allows the in- brand’s facebook fan base to 1.4 million. Coty, which grew its travel-retail busi- “good shape,” “a recovery area” and grow- dustry to get closer to consumers than any- it’s all part of what the company calls ness by 19 percent last year and still ing between 7 and 9 percent. the two main one had dreamed of, even five years ago. focusing “on beauty beyond imagination, registers a double-digit sales gain in the drivers worldwide for l’oréal’s luxury divi- the new digital tools will certainly be so that we can hopefully really delight the channel, is moving ahead with product sion are the emerging markets — primarily needed if the global travel-retail business people we are trying to serve,” as termed launches for brands like Philosophy and Asia — and travel retail. is to reach the lofty goals outlined in his by Joanne Crewes, president, P&G Prestige. Calvin Klein color. the company is wari- While in Western countries much of the speech. this year, it’s expected to ring up Procter & Gamble has also taken strides ly optimistic about the future. beauty business’ recovery is being fueled by $44 billion, versus $39 billion last year. A in the embryonic area of “retail-tainment” “the visibility is very short,” said the truly rich luxury shopper, rather than 10.4 percent annual growth rate is pro- in airport stores. A prime example came in Jean Mortier, senior vice president, com- the aspirational one, Carsten fischer, chief jected through 2015, said Juul-Mortensen. March, when the influential travel-retail mercial, of Coty Prestige.

officer of Shiseido’s international business Beauty claimed a 30.6 percent share of operator Gebr. Heinemann unveiled a “travel retail still has potential for bruno vandeville

division and professional business opera- the total travel retail market in the first freestanding boutique in the frankfurt air- growth,” he said. “Some brands are well by tions division, stressed that is “not true half of 2011, down slightly from 30.8 per- port devoted to all aspects of Hugo Boss, represented, and some brands have a lot

for Asia. everybody in Asia is aspiration- cent in the same period last year, with sales including fashion and fragrance, which of space to grow.” photos

w30a007a.indd 1 9/29/11 5:19 PM 09292011172042 8 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2011 WWD.COM Selena Gomez She’s also creating several projects with her development company, July Moon beauty Productions, “There are a couple of films in development right now — we are work- ing on ‘Thirteen Reasons Why,’ which is a book my mom found, and we’re developing that into a film. We have a couple of other Making Scents With Selena things in the pipeline as well.” She’s currently touring for her third Her fans were also the impetus be- album, “When the Sun Goes Down,” and By JULIE NAUGHTON hind her apparel line, Dream Out Loud, thinking about what her fourth record which is carried at Kmart. “I used to get will be. “The fourth album’s going to be MOST CELEBRITIES don’t offer their picked on about how I dressed because extremely different and I need to take my fans the opportunity to shape a product a lot of people said I dressed very bor- time with it because I will be almost 20 by they’re meant to buy — but then again, ing,” she said. “I wanted to make a line the time the next record comes out,” she most celebrities aren’t Selena Gomez. that my fans could dress up and down said. “I think I’m going to want to step into “At this point in my career, it’s really that was still comfortable, that was still a different direction — and I need to make important to me that my fans understand affordable. I named it Dream Out Loud sure I do that carefully.” She also contin- me and who I am as a person — I feel because that’s what I feel like I’m doing.” ues her work with UNICEF, for which she like we’re all just in it together. They’re But back to the fragrance. “I’m having is the organization’s youngest Goodwill everything to me,” said Gomez during an a really fun, exciting time with it — the Ambassador; she has held the role since exclusive phone interview with WWD. “I design of the bottle is where we’re at right August 2009, and had served as the or- always involve them in every aspect of now,” Gomez said. “We’ve gone through ganization’s Trick-or-Treat for UNICEF my career. Even when I’m on stage per- probably five different bottles. I want it spokesperson the previous October. “My forming, I always say I’m performing with [the fragrance bottle] to represent me. So, KIRKLAND/RETNAPHOTO BY DIGITAL key demographic is maybe a younger gen- them, not for them, because I’m kind of it has to be really kind of fun, youthful, it to be my face smiling in a big cheesy eration than my age, so it’s nice to be able growing up with everybody. And at this that’s still kind of sophisticated in a way. smile. I just want it to be captured in a to lend my voice to that generation and time in my career and life, I’m able to I think we’re incorporating some light very sophisticated way.” educate them on issues going on around share something with them, and I think colors, maybe a dark purple with maybe Personal appearances are also a given, the world,” she said. “It’s good for me to be we can make something great together.” a light pink, and gold and black — mixing she said. “I’m going to be sold at fragrance able to be a part of something like that too, That something will be the to-be- a little bit of dark and light.” counters in department stores,” she said. to educate myself.” named scent the 19-year-old actress, Gomez has definite ideas for the ad “And when that time comes, I want to be the While admittedly she’s got many singer and entrepreneur is developing campaigns, and they don’t include the one that gives my fans the fragrance first.” projects going, Gomez takes things in with Adrenalina Inc. for a spring launch. expected wholesome shot of her: “I The name, on the other hand, is cre- stride. “It’s definitely about categories “My fans can go to selenagomezperfumes. want it to be romantic, rich and sweet, ating some issues. “I’m really bad at — putting them in categories,” she said com and see all the ingredients — the top because I’m a very romantic person.” names, and because like every name of juggling acting, singing, charity work, ingredient, the middle ingredient, and (So, evidently, is boyfriend Justin Bieber, has been taken, we might just name it designing apparel and creating her fra- a base,” she said. “I want the base to be who recently rented Los Angeles’ entire my first name — By Selena,” she said. grance. “Because if I did them all at rich — I like vanilla and maybe some Staples Arena for a dinner date with “That’s temporary, so we’ll see. But ev- once, I would definitely go crazy. I never chocolate. For the middle, I’ve smelled Gomez). “I also want it to be sophisti- erything romantic has been taken.” do anything unless it’s organic. I’m not raw grapefruit and peach, and the top cated enough to appeal to a wider demo- Another reason Gomez is developing a just lending my name to a product — note’s definitely going to be fruity. I’m graphic,” she continued. “I want it to ap- fragrance: “I wear a lot of Victoria’s Secret- when it comes to anything I’m involved going to put up all the [notes] I like and peal to someone even if they don’t know type fragrances that are pretty, but as far with, I’m behind it 100 percent. So basi- let my fans pick which ones they want who I am. So I want the campaign to al- as hard-core perfume, I haven’t found one cally, for me, I wanted to do all of these to put together. So, it’s going to be some- most be just a pretty, beautiful shot that that I’m crazy about,” she said. “It’s one of things because I was passionate about it thing that I like, regardless.” represents the fragrance — I don’t want the reasons I’m developing my own.” — and it just happens to be a lot.” SRO: Attendees at Balenciaga, including François- Henri Pinault and Chiara Mastroianni, burned some extra calories as unstable seating WWD STYLE forced all to stand. PAGE 11

Suite Fashion

The St. Regis New York’s latest fashion collaboration is the Dior Suite, 1,700 square feet of atelier-inspired digs. For more, see page 10.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE

advantages and disadvantages. But it’s it completely stands up based on my own politics. So I’m looking forward to it. Am MEMO PAD really fun to be collaborating with Adam reporting and, frankly, based on other I going to cover local politics? No, that’s again, who I’ve worked with off and on, reporting that’s out there. It very much not one of my things. I’m not going to but mainly on, for 25 years, beginning overlaps with Jon Alter’s book about the cover a mayor’s race. when he was a young editor at Esquire. first year of the Obama administration, RICH ON RICH: On Tuesday night, New which I actually reviewed for The New WWD: How’s “Veep” going [a new HBO York editor Adam Moss threw a slightly WWD: How are you enjoying the weekly York Review of Books — including the series starring Julia Louis-Dreyfus for which belated Welcome to New York Magazine chats with Adam online? women thing, which I’ve also picked Rich is an executive producer]? party for once-a-month writer and former F.R.: It’s been fun. The most amusing part up on in my reporting. I really think F.R.: Well, “Veep” starts shooting Oct. 3. Times columnist Frank Rich. WWD caught is to bring Adam out in public, because no one’s laid a hand on it. And so I’m I’m going down to Baltimore tomorrow up with Rich on the top floor at the New Adam has always been behind the fascinated by the piling on — the piling for the final rehearsals. In show business, Museum, and here’s what he had to say: scenes. I don’t want it to be just about is about something that has nothing anything can happen. I’m not naïve about me mouthing off. I want him mouthing to do with the book. Maybe he’s not a show business, but we’re shooting seven WWD: Early days, but what are the off, too. He’s actually stepped up and member of the club. episodes. We don’t know for sure, but it’ll differences between The New York done it. We’re still experimenting with probably be on the air in March. Times and New York Magazine? it. It’s very freewheeling. WWD: Do you still want to write a lot Frank Rich: I’m writing about the same about politics? You’re at New York now, WWD: Last question, on Sunday Review. stuff and the same passions, but a bigger WWD: I remember reading a chat you you have flexibility, so can you say, “I’m Your feelings on it so far, a section you picture; longer, obviously; not being a guys had where you were talking about going to write about one play.” Can you never had anything to do with, but it’s monkey on a string and reacting to what Ron Suskind’s new book [“Confidence get small? Can you get local? your old colleagues over at the Times. happened on Thursday. And to me as a Men: Wall Street, Washington, and the F.R.: I don’t know about local. From the What do you think? writer, it feels really liberating. I’ve only Education of a President”]. But since beginning, Adam and I talked about F.R.: It’s a work in progress. It’s a new been doing it for — what? Three or four you guys talked, the narrative has totally me doing cultural pieces, and I will. publication. It’s like a start-up. Yo u months? My fourth piece is this week. changed. Now everyone is piling on to But right now, we’re in such a political can’t judge it. It’s too early. It’s been up The other thing I’m enjoying that’s Suskind’s book. Any thoughts on the season. But yeah, part of the draw is — in less time than I’ve been at New York different is in the op-ed page of the Times. criticism of it? and this is true of my history with Adam magazine, so we’ll see what happens. Yo u don’t have an editor, which has its F.R.: I followed all the criticism of it, but at the Times — to combine culture and — JOHN KOBLIN 10 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2011 Atelier Accommodations THE S T. REGIS New York has unveiled its new Dior Suite, the Inside the suite. latest fashion-centric abode for the hotel after it’s collaboration earlier this year with Tiffany & Co. The suite, consisting of a bedroom, one-and-a-half bathrooms, a dining room and living room, was modeled after the house’s Parisian ateliers. The decadently designed, 1,700-square-foot space is almost entirely “whispering” gray, the house’s signature shade. This is the hotel’s second go- around with the Parisian house, having opened an original Dior Suite in 1991. “Dior has had a long history with us. They’ve been here since the hotel reopened in the early 1990s,” said Paul H.F. Nash, the St. Regis’ general manager. “So this is a reinvigoration of the partnership that we have had for 20 years.” CHINSEE Guests can stay at the decked-out digs — for $8,500 GEORGE a night. BY — TAYLOR HARRIS PHOTOS

Hovnanian’s studio. Rachel Hovnanian

eye

Ravage Beauty THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY

RACHEL HOVNANIAN’S CHELSEA studio, where people,” one tub offers. “ Yo u need more Botox,” the voice sighs. “ Yo u can’t she sculpts and photographs and later displays her “This product will change your life,” another promises. wear this out there. She wore the same thing, you saw occasionally interactive art, is large, airy, whitewashed, “Well, there’s a reason my latest show is called the pictures on Facebook. She looked so much better filled with shiny objects and, on this day, flooded with ‘Power & Burden of Beauty,’ ” Hovnanian says, showing than you. Yo u shouldn’t have eaten those Cheetos.” sunlight. A gigantic beauty-pageant trophy carved from a row of her photographs from her past exhibition, Hovnanian is taking the installation to Los Angeles marble stands in a far corner. It’s an imposing figure: “Too Good to Be True.” Beauty queens cast in marble, to exhibit at the Art Platform Art Fair through the barely smiling, 10 feet tall, her roses and tiara as much gilt or wax pervade the illustrations. Some clutch Leila Heller Gallery from Oct. 1 to 3 along with some of a part of her form as her arms or legs. knives, stabbing the competition (“Beauty Queen her works from “Too Good to Be True.” While in L.A., “I grew up with what you could call ‘intellectual’ Backstabbers” and “Backstabbers II”). One has just she’ll be celebrated by Nadja Swarovski at a dinner parents in Texas; my dad was an English teacher,” the come off a shopping binge and is perched in a four- at the Chateau Marmont tonight. Swarovski has given artist explains in front of an arcade-style claw game poster bed in front of her balding, much older husband. Hovnanian a selection of crystals with which to craft a that provides gilt pageant-style trophies as prizes. She (“That one’s called ‘No Prenup,’ ” the artist explains piece for the Women for Women Making a Difference holds a trophy she recently won from the game in her with a grin.) In another, a beauty queen with body Awards. A percentage of the proceeds from the sale of hands as she speaks. dysmorphic disorder sees an engorged version of her the piece will go to Swarovski’s foundation. “[My parents] always told me that it’s what’s inside actually trim self in the mirror in the changing room. “I try to confront our obsessions as a culture with your head that counts,” Hovnanian continues. “ Yo u “That’s ‘Size 0,’ and actually plays into my latest beauty and youth and Photoshopping and gossip in my grow up hearing that all the time, and then, you know, exhibition, the ‘Fun House Changing Room,’ ” Hovnanian work,” Hovnanian explains, sifting through a plastic I’m here, growing up in Texas. And I just turned to explains as she walks toward a new mirror. “The crate wherein she keeps the dollhouse miniatures she them one day and asked, ‘How could you even say that? changing room is where you see all these physical faults uses for her tableaus. There are bottles of prescription Of course it matters what you look like!’ ” and you’re really alone with them under this bad lighting drugs that would fit inside a pen cap (the pills are Hovnanian herself is petite, with blonde hair, and you’re trying on a swimsuit — it’s the most intimate actually loose in the bottle and shake around, some large blue eyes and a winsome smile. She is energetic piece of clothing that we ever wear in public, and you can “Valium” is loose in the crate), rolls of toilet paper, and friendly, clever and charming. She wouldn’t just feel so awful about yourself. And you usually do.” packs of gum the size of a freckle, laundry products, seem hugely out of place at a beauty pageant, yet the First displayed in 2009, “Fun House Changing Room” shoelaces, silverware. It’s difficult to pick these things anxiety-ridden relationship women have with their incorporates a visibly warped mirror (it obviously shows up with fingertips without obscuring some of them, appearance plays a central role in her work. There’s its curves and twists, “unlike those in actual department but Hovnanian brandishes a tiny package of feminine her “Wall of Confidence,” an 8-foot-by-2-foot frame store dressing rooms,” Hovnanian laughs) and a series sanitary products, pinched between her thumb and containing identical jars of “Texas Beauty Queen of white one-piece swimsuits labeled in their respective pointer finger, eyebrows raised. Cream,” each plastered with a different slogan taken sizes. Approaching the mirror, a motion sensor triggers “I’m trying to confront these things,” she says, from actual advertising in the beauty industry. an audio recording, in which a beleaguered voice tells “before they devour us all alive.” “Imagine…having the confidence to approach new viewers how unattractive they look. — ALESSANDRA CODINHA WWD friday, september 30, 2011 11 WWD.COM

months to decide which expertise in the subject matter. charitable causes and insti- “When Halston put out his first tutions she will be involved perfume that I loved so much, Fashion scoops with in the future. he didn’t even put his name on the bottle,” Minnelli said when CHANGE OF HABIT: Arianne asked about her favorite bottle STAND AND DELIVER: It was standing OPEN DIOR POLICY: Orlando Bloom, spotted Phillips celebrated her return designs. “He wouldn’t put his room only at Balenciaga. Collapsing rifling the racks at the Dior Homme bou- to full-time fashion styling by name on it.…But I said, ‘You’ve benches upstaged celebrities, with tique in Paris on Thursday night, was hitting Paris Fashion Week. got to put your name on it,’ And he some editors falling flat on their backs. probably scouting some front-row togs. “I’m taking a sabbatical from said: ‘Why? They’ll know who it After about a half-dozen benches suc- Word has it the actor will be among VIPs film,” she said at the Nina is. They’ll ask.’ He was right. And cumbed — supporting the likes of Mario at Dior’s women’s fashion show today. Ricci show. “The crazy thing I’ve collected all of these different Testino, Carine Roitfeld and Linda Wells While rumors have been rife in is that even though fashion is beautiful shaped bottles of his, — Balenciaga chief executive officer Paris that Dior would make an an- at a quick pace, at least I can Peretti-influenced and some of Isabelle Guichot got on the PA to offer nouncement about John Galliano’s suc- kind of schedule my time so I them actually Peretti.” apologies, and ask that people stand cessor during Paris Fashion Week, can have a little bit of a life.” The pianist Michael Feinstein, Poppy during the show for safety reasons. chief executive officerSidney Toledano Phillips will continue to work who had accompanied Minnelli Delevigne Apparently, there were no serious assured that’s “several weeks” away. with , having most to the party, spoke up.

Madonna Dominique maitre Photo BY injuries, while some wispy fashion He would not be drawn into specifics. recently designed costumes “The first thing you ever gave types wondered aloud whether it might Marc Jacobs is still seen as the front- for “W.E.,” the singer’s second directorial me as a present was a bottle of Halston co- be time for a collective industry diet. runner for the job, though talks have effort. “Madonna has a lot of new stuff com- logne,” he said. “And I still have it.” “What happened? What hap- been tough and recently at a standstill, ing out in the New Year as well because “Yes that’s right,” Minnelli said. “And pened?” Chiara Mastroianni cried out sources said. Meanwhile, Toledano she’s recording an album, so we’re going to that was so many years ago I can’t tell you.” earlier to Salma Hayek as the Mexican- assured that business at Dior is good. have so much to do,” she said. born actress gingerly walked toward “The fall-winter collection is doing very Down the row, Poppy Delevigne revealed KICK OFF: The Valentino boutique on 64th her seat in rope-soled platforms, her well,” he said, flashing a big smile.Bill she had just shot a campaign for the Zadig Street and Madison Avenue provided right ankle wrapped in a bandage. “A Gaytten, Dior’s studio head, is expected & Voltaire fragrance Tome 1 La Pureté a respite from muggy Manhattan on little bit crippled,” Hayek whispered, to take the bow at today’s show. with photographer Fred Meylan. “It’s pretty Wednesday afternoon. Valentino (in explaining that she had previously racy,” she said. “It’s something very out collaboration with Graff and the Museum torn ligaments and recently twisted HOGAN’S HERO: Leave it to Karl Lagerfeld of the norm for me, I guess. It’s kind of of the City of New York) was expecting the ankle again. So are such high heels — ever the over-achiever — to al- pushed me to a new boundary.” Delevigne about 50 guests for the lunch, and had laid advisable? “It’s OK for five minutes,” ways design a collection with added refused to say more, but whatever they had out two long white tables set with small she shrugged. value. For his third collaboration her doing on set, it was clearly addictive. bouquets of blush-colored roses and green- Isabelle Huppert said she’s about with Hogan, the designer will unveil “It was a very chilled atmosphere, so I tinged hydrangeas next to their places. to reprise her role as Blanche in a 32-page book alongside the stretch wanted to do it for days,” she giggled. Accessing the tables led one through the a Paris production of “A Streetcar leather jackets, high-rise jeans, pleat- latest collection, the dotted silks and pearl- Named Desire” — “Un Tramway” in ed leather totes and ballerina flats he SUN EUROPEAN PARTNERS ACQUIRES ALEXON: encrusted collars catching more than a few French — at the Théâtre de L’ Odéon U.K.-based women’s apparel retailer Alexon eyes en route: “Oh, I want everything,” was starting Nov. 25. She’s also been busy was sold on Thursday to Sun European a common refrain, as guests sipped cocktails promoting her new movie, “My Worst Bianca Balti Partners, an affiliate of U.S.-based Sun and greeted each other. The “real party” is Nightmare,” a comedy by Anne Fontaine, wearing Hogan by Capital Partners. Terms of the prepackaged taking place at the Plaza on Oct. 12; this was and will exhibit her photography Karl Lagerfeld. deal, completed as publicly held Alexon was just to “kick things off,” Shafi Roepers said. during the Busan International Film headed into administration after being un- Debbie Bancroft, Sara Ayres, Allison Aston and Festival in South Korea next month. able to secure an expanded bank line from Alexandra Lebenthal were among the guests. Mastroianni’s famous mom, Catherine Barclays plc, were not disclosed. Brands “Oh I’m sure I must know somebody here…” Deneuve, has just wrapped the latest under the Alexon umbrella include Ann Marisa Noel Brown laughed before heading into Asterix and Obelix film, in which she Harvey, Kaliko and Dash. the party and the open arms of some friends. plays Cordelia, the Queen of England. “I’ve been involved with the museum “I am taking some time off now,” she BOTTLED UP: On Tuesday night, perfume bot- for something like 19 years,” Tara Rockefeller said, noting her plans include hang- tle designer Marc Rosen signed copies of his explained. “It’s really wonderful — such a ing out in New York City later in the soon-to-be-published book “Glamour Icons: gem of a place. They have a Beaton exhibit year. “I like going downtown, walking Perfume Bottle Design” at the Palm Court soon, and their costume collection is just about, checking out the museums, and at The Plaza hotel. Included in the crowd incredible. It’s really the only museum that generally just doing nothing,” she said. were Ann Dexter-Jones, Carmen Dell’Orefice focuses on the history of New York and its Charlotte Gainsbourg, clad in head-to-toe and Rosen’s wife, Arlene Dahl, whom he met preservation. Valentino was a perfect partner: Balenciaga, is busy promoting her new while working on her own fragrance. the designs are timeless, classic, you know...” album, “Stage Whisper,” which comes Liza Minnelli, a longtime friend of the Rockefeller smoothed her Valentino jacket. out in November. couple, turned out to show her support, “I mean, it’s why I wear the label again and French actress Marina Foïs said she and for a brief spell sat next to Rosen while again. His clothes are oddly always practical, will soon appear in “Polisse,” a film KarL LagerFeLDPhoto BY he signed away. She demonstrated her own considering how beautiful they are.” written and directed by Maïwenn Le Besco, also present at the show. It hits created for the Italian brand. “The French theaters Oct. 19. Next year Foïs first season we made a movie called will hit the boards in a French tour of ‘La Lettre.’ The second time there was Ibsen’s “A Doll’s House” directed by an exhibition of photos, so this time I Jean-Louis Martinelli. wanted something else because I hate Meanwhile, Foïs’ partner, director Eric to repeat myself,” said Lagerfeld. Lartigau, is at work writing an as-yet un- The book features a sequence of titled film withBertrand Blier. “It’s a com- photos and sketches of models Bianca For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. edy,” he said. Will Foïs take one of the Balti and Jacquelyn Jablonski wearing leading roles, as she has in three of his the collection, whose target customer four most recent movies? “It’s too early Lagerfeld is loathe to pigeonhole. to say who will star in it,” he demurred. “You know, there is not a special Hogan woman because it is supposed to appeal to so many different kinds of Salma woman. It’s always dangerous to say Hayek what a woman is,” he said. COMMERCIAL RESIDENTIAL Elie Tahari has the following opening REAL ESTATE REAL ESTATE in New York, NY: Knitwear Production A WALK IN WAKELEY: The Duke and Specialist. Manage daily projects for knitwear division, coordinating be- Duchess of Cambridge made one of their tween overseas and domestic factories. rare public appearances Thursday to BS Marketing + 5 yrs. rel. exp. produc- tion development w/in int’l apparel open a children’s cancer unit at The manufacturing industry. Exp w/ Royal Marsden hospital in Surrey, just Park Ave at 34th St. 10 RM PW PH leading/mentoring apparel production Showrooms & Lofts Rare Triplex Penthouse 21 ft LR team. BMS tracking & yields. Exp. outside of London. Catherine wore an BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS HT WBFP 3BR, 3.5BTH, two solariums w/costing & merchandising, BOM up- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail 2MDS w/BTH, wrap terrace. Empire dates; int’l shipping documents. Re- Amanda Wakeley sculpted felt shift ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 State and Chrysler Bldg views. sume only to Heather Cohen, Elie dress in oatmeal, from the designer’s $5,500,000 Web#1225217 Tahari, Ltd., 510 5th Avenue, 4th D. Dickinson 917-359-7638 Floor, New York, NY 10036 or to fall 2011 collection, paired with her PRUDENTIAL DOUGLAS ELLIMAN [email protected] signature nude court shoes by L.K. Bennett. During their visit, the couple toured the cancer unit and met chil- dren who are being treated at the hos- pital. And William endeavored not to show that he’d only that morning com- pleted a 24-hour shift in his role as an RAF search and rescue pilot, during which he’d helped pick up a casualty. Last week, Clarence House said that the couple will continue to take on selected engagements, between spending time together at their home (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] in north Wales. The palace also said Photo StePhane Feugere that Catherine is taking the next few