Fashion’s Key People; Fashion Voices FBS C19 Issue 5: 05.06.20 Fashion Voices in the Time of COVID19: Although, as we go to press with Issue 5, events of major importance to the world are happening, these reports are not the place to engage in political conversations or debate, however, the fashion world has immediately responded to the murder of George Floyd !"# $%&#'()#'*'*)#+"#$+"",%-!.+/)#$+"",/!0%# and the subsequent global outcry. Editor Anna Wintour, PR Karla Otto, Christian Dior, and make artist Pat McGrath are just some of the fashion voices to be heard. We support their words against racism in any form. Thank You. How is coronavirus impacting the global fashion and clothing industry? We summarise real time industry themes that are emerging across the planet in response to the COVID19 pandemic and its effect on fashion retailers, brands, supply chains and the wider fashion industry. Crafting A New Sustainable Glamorous Path: Kevin Germanier; an individual voice as a sustainable designer of glamour. The Paris-based designer is known for redefining sustainable fashion by using only upcycled materials creating ‘high-octane, unapologetically glamorous dresses and separates’all of which are made entirely from materials that otherwise would have been contributed to landfill. ! ! Germanier’s pieces are worn by celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Björk and K-pop sensation Sunmi, helping to promote his particular brand of sustainable luxe into the spotlight and proving there’s far more to eco-friendly fashion than organic linen. Germanier's creations have been featured in Dazed and Confused, Vogue Germany and Numero Russia, and was worn by Björk on the cover of the Guardian’s 'New Review'. https://www.dn-mag.com/news/20190227-germanier-rtw-2019-fall-19-20/ Fashion has never been about one voice, one look, one story or one trend. Whilst Christian Dior was fixated on The New Look with its’ fit’n flare silhouette Cristobal Balenciaga was working on the waist less Sack Dress. Today many voices are speaking to us with ideas, optimism and refreshing viewpoints. The question has always been “who do we listen too”? As if there is only one answer, as if fashion is only about one voice. Listening and discussing makes sense at any time, but right now and for the foreseeable future it’s going to be a necessity. The interesting thing is that, whilst the usual fashion cycle is suspended, people are both looking back whilst exploring future possibilities. This week we bring you, amongst other things, a selection of influential voices from across the fashion industry. In most cases it’s about what they’re actually doing, or in some cases having an inspiring a viewpoint. As referenced in Issue 1 this is not the time for conjecture and possibilities or “what if’s”! These newsletters have been compiled to be informative and future facing providing a real time perspective. Until we know more and are further distanced from the original outbreak of COVID19, many factors are still emerging, and speculation at during these times is frankly unhelpful. Professionals and survivors of the fashion and creative industries don’t sit waiting for things to happen, they will capitalise on new opportunities and make things happen. These players are not ‘passive’ they’re active and future facing and exist to offer a diverse range of ideas and attitudes in response to the global fashion situation and beyond. So, listen to these voices, hear what they say; then importantly make up your own mind. How is coronavirus impacting the global fashion and clothing industry? We summarise real time industry themes that are emerging nationally and globally in response to the COVID19 pandemic and its effect on global fashion brands, retailers, supply chains and wider industry representation. One thing is for sure; ‘thinking’ is never out of fashion. Tony Glenville Fashion Commentator! Fashion Influencers Paradox: Think about the voice of social media Influencers. Always Remember - There is an influencer list for every country, every culture, every market sector and for everyone; football, yoga, cosmetics, food, music; the list is endless. What are brands doing in place of influencer campaigns? With pre COVID19 pandemic budgets slashed, brands are relying less heavily on influencers, using what marketing dollars they have left in creative ways. Fashion influencers are seeing a plunge in brand deals during the pandemic. They must evolve their content and flex their creative skills or risk being left behind. Influencers have a captive audience during the pandemic, but can they capitalise on it? Influencers are getting more views than ever from self-isolating fans. But with the majority of retail stores in a variety of lockdown conditions and fewer consumers in the mood to buy, making money could be a struggle and affiliate revenue is next to disappear. Brands like Macy’s and TJ Maxx are pausing their affiliate marketing programs to save money in response to the COVID19 pandemic. Social media Influencers have seen brand sponsorships disappear overnight whilst the available market share for product lines fronted by social media influencers is becoming increasingly crowded. As retail stores across the globe are beginning to reopen in the immediate wake of the COVID19 outbreak luxury companies and mass-market brands are looking to get consumers back into the physical store environment. Foot traffic to stores in the U.S. and Canada is starting to rise, although slowly. ‘For the week ended May 15, foot traffic to shops was 92 percent below the same period a year ago, compared with a 95% drop in the previous seven days,’ Bloomberg 19.05.20 When comparing pre COVID19 spending to the current situation retail clearly faces significant obstacles; rising unemployment, market instability and diminished consumer confidence, retail is likely to be shaken significantly for the foreseeable future from both a practical and psychological perspective; from social distancing mandates and Plexiglas dividers to mandatory mask rules, heightened hygiene rules, our retail reality will inevitably offer a strange new consumer experience with a marked absence of many experiential and immersive elements. Shopping as a sensory and immersive experience will have changed for the foreseeable future: While the scent of a retail outlet may seem trivial, as consumers, our senses play a major role in how much we engage with retail experiences. Retailers have long employed the art of store atmospherics to encourage us to stay, spend and return. Atmospherics, such as scent, music, touch, temperature and consumer crowding, all help create an engaging sensory experience for the target audience. Research clearly demonstrates that customers stay longer, spend more and feel better, all leading to enhanced brand loyalty and increased foot fall and proportional spend. Could the COVID19 Diminish the Fashion Influencer Culture or Accelerate it? In the middle of a pandemic, how influential can social media influencers really be? Influencers are currently experiencing an uncertain future where they need to ‘influence and inspire followers’ but are running out of valuable and appropriate advice to share. There has been backlash, of course, against the too-perfect images influencers are accused of creating, but they’ve always bounced back by introducing ‘authenticity” and more raw imagery. Yet, the fact remains that they have to connect with their followers to be a part of the current zeitgeist. With Covid-19 dominating public life, that’s become harder to do. Travel, parties, dining and retail excursions have been cancelled. Marketing campaigns and influencer deals are frozen. Followers, facing mounting uncertainty, are less moved by images of new product, and anyone posting such things can easily look detached from the seriousness of the pandemic. As the COVID19 spread, how can influencers stay relevant when all areas. of our industry are being questioned? Question: How will fashion influencers bounce back this time? And ultimately, will anyone care if they don’t? At a time when societal anxiety is peaking, privilege screams louder. “We’re all in this together” is a flawed and loaded statement when some people have access to resources others don’t. For influencers striking the right tone can prove to be extremely difficult. To err on the side of carefulness, many brands that aim to capitalize on influencer power are now having to focus on ‘purposeful and authentic’ messaging to retain consumer engagement. Influencer Marketing Future Trends: The Future of Influencer Marketing: 5 Predictions You Need to Know (Updated May 2020) • Emergence of Influencer Networks. • Emphasis on Micro-Influencers. • Increase of In-House Influencer Programs. • Stricter Guidelines for Advertising. • The Rise of CGI Influencers. As COVID19 became a global pandemic there was a proportional increase in influencer marketing to consumers as more and more people were in lock down spending more time on their devices instead of socialising within the physical face to face world. Research shows that the average screen time is up to 5h40m per day, an 18% increase from weeks prior. Question: Will the continuation of social distancing as we slowly move back out into the world diminish the Fashion Influencer Culture or Accelerate it? https://www.wired.com/story/coronavirus-covid-19-influencers/ https://www.marketplace.org/2020/05/28/can-instagram-save-the-influencer-model- during-covid19/ https://www.forbes.com/sites/petersuciu/2020/05/04/influence-in-the-time-of-covid-19-- even-a-global-pandemic-cant-stop-social-media-influence/#fd6afa2778ab Grace Coddington: Charm, Cats and Honesty. Grace Coddington has been a key player in the fashion industry for many decades. First as a model and later, and today, as a stylist. Books of her work and tributes to her are many and her personality was revealed at full strength in “September Issue”. The behind the scenes look at the tremendous hard work which goes into the single most important issue of American Vogue each year.