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Osterwalder the Long Way Towards the Ideal Sunscreen.Pdf View Article Online / Journal Homepage / Table of Contents for this issue This article is published as part of a themed issue of Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences on Topical and systemic photoprotection Published in issue 4, 2010 Sunscreens: the impervious path from theory Behaviour and measurement to practice, P. U. Giacomoni et al., Photochem. Chronic sun damage and the perception of Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 524 age, health and attractiveness, P. J. Matts and Dose-dependent progressive sunscreens. A B. Fink, Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 421 new strategy for photoprotection?, A. Gallardo Knowledge, motivation, and behavior patterns et al., Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 530 of the general public towards sun protection, The FDA proposed solar simulator versus J. M. Goulart and S. Q. Wang, Photochem. sunlight, R. M. Sayre and J. C. Dowdy, Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 432 Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 535 Molecular modifications of dermal and How a calculated model of sunscreen film epidermal biomarkers following UVA geometry can explain in vitro and in vivo SPF exposures on reconstructed full-thickness variation, L. Ferrero et al., Photochem. Photobiol. human skin, M. Meloni et al., Photochem. Sci., 2010, 9, 540 Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 439 Filter–filter interactions. Photostabilization, In vitro tools for photobiological testing: triplet quenching and reactivity with singlet molecular responses to simulated solar UV of oxygen, V. Lhiaubet-Vallet et al., Photochem. keratinocytes growing as monolayers or as Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 552 part of reconstructed skin, L. Marrot et al., Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 448 Systemic photoprotection Comparison between UV index measurements Mechanistic insights in the use of a performed by research-grade and consumer- Polypodium leucotomos extract as an oral and products instruments, M. P. Corrêa et al., topical photoprotective agent, S. Gonzalez et Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 459 al., Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 559 Downloaded by Universitat Basel on 03/04/2013 11:54:14. Topical photoprotection Vitamin D-fence, K. M. Dixon et al., Photochem. Published on 01 March 2010 http://pubs.rsc.org | doi:10.1039/B9PP00178F Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 564 Ultraviolet filters, N. A. Shaath, Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 464 UV exposure and protection against allergic airways disease, S. Gorman et al., Photochem. The long way towards the ideal sunscreen— Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 571 where we stand and what still needs to be done, U. Osterwalder and B. Herzog, Photochem. Photoprotective effects of nicotinamide, D. L. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 470 Damian, Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 578 Percutaneous absorption with emphasis on The two faces of metallothionein in sunscreens, H. Gonzalez, Photochem. Photobiol. carcinogenesis: photoprotection against UVR- Sci., 2010, 9, 482 induced cancer and promotion of tumour survival, H. M. McGee et al., Photochem. In vitro measurements of sunscreen Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 586 protection, J. Stanfield et al., Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 489 Dietary glucoraphanin-rich broccoli sprout extracts protect against UV radiation-induced Human safety review of “nano” titanium skin carcinogenesis in SKH-1 hairless mice, A. dioxide and zinc oxide, K. Schilling et al., T. Dinkova-Kostova et al., Photochem. Photobiol. Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 495 Sci., 2010, 9, 597 Sunscreens and occupation: the Austrian Mice drinking goji berry juice (Lycium experience, H. Maier and A. W. Schmalwieser, barbarum) are protected from UV radiation- Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 510 induced skin damage via antioxidant UVA protection labeling and in vitro testing pathways, V. E. Reeve et al., Photochem. methods, D. Moyal, Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 601 2010, 9, 516 Oestrogen receptor-β signalling protects against transplanted skin tumour growth in the mouse, J.-L. Cho et al., Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 608 View Article Online PERSPECTIVE www.rsc.org/pps | Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences The long way towards the ideal sunscreen—where we stand and what still needs to be done Uli Osterwaldera and Bernd Herzogb Received 30th November 2009, Accepted 4th December 2009 First published as an Advance Article on the web 1st March 2010 DOI: 10.1039/b9pp00178f The magnitude and quality of UV protection provided by topical sun products have improved considerably over the past three decades. As our knowledge and understanding of sun protection requirements increases, product and testing technologies advance and new sunscreen molecules and technologies become available. The biannual London Sun Protection Conference has monitored this development over the last two decades. The 2009 edition of the conference (June 3 and 4) was entitled “Perfection of Protection”. This paper, based on our talk given at the conference, tries to answer the question about the “ideal sunscreen” and explores four key requirements of good UV protection regarding where we stand on a ranking scale between poor and perfect, and what still needs to be done. Technology is leading with a rating of 80%, Assessment/measurement follows at 70%, Norms/standards around 50% and Compliance ranks only around 30% between poor and perfect. UV filters are the heart of the product technology. Besides UVB-filters, plenty of UV filters for UVA II and UVA I protection are now available in most parts of the world, except the USA. Although the Sun Protection Factor is well established and various methods have been developed for assessment of UVA protection, the performance measurement of sunscreens is still far from perfect. On the other hand, the high bar for achieving the highest UVA protection in the various classification systems released recently in Europe (2006) and the USA (2007) already helped to increase the protection considerably. The greatest problem however, remains poor compliance. Providing cosmetically pleasing formulations that people like to wear and communicating what sunscreens are and how they work are key elements in improving UV protection. Downloaded by Universitat Basel on 03/04/2013 11:54:14. Published on 01 March 2010 http://pubs.rsc.org | doi:10.1039/B9PP00178F Introduction of protection requirements, product and testing technologies advanced and new sunscreen molecules and technologies became The level and quality of UV protection provided by topical sun available. The biannual London Sun Protection Conference has products have improved considerably over the past three decades. monitored this development over the last two decades. The In parallel to the increase of our knowledge and understanding 2009 edition of the conference (June 3 and 4) was entitled “Perfection of Protection”. This paper is based on our talk given aBASF SE, D-97056 Ludwigshafen, Germany. E-mail: uli.osterwalder@ at the conference, entitled “The Long Way Towards the Ideal basf.com Sunscreen—Where We Stand and What Still Needs to Be Done”.1 b BASF Grenzach GmbH, Koechlinstr., 1, Grenzach-Wyhlen, Germany We asked the question what is the “ideal sunscreen” and what are the requirements for good UV protection. The ideal sunscreen protects against sunburn, skin photo-aging and skin cancer during Uli Osterwalder was trained as lifetime sun exposure. The question is which grade of optical a chemical engineer at ETH density and which spectral protection profile are necessary to Zurich, Switzerland, and in achieve this goal. We identified four key requirements for good Houston, Texas. He joined Ciba UV protection: in 1979 in process development. – Technology 10 years ago he joined the per- – Assessment/measurement methods sonal care business. He now – Norms and standards serves as Scientific Adviser for – Compliance UV Protection and personal care These key requirements are all related to each other and ingredients. He also serves in in- influenced by many stakeholders (Fig. 1). Technology alone ternational working groups on the cannot guarantee good UV protection. The performance of a standardization of UV protection sunscreen has to be measured and benchmarks have to be set in assessment, e.g. currently in ISO the form of norms or standards by authorities or the industry Uli Osterwalder TC 217, WG 6. Furthermore He itself. All this is still not sufficient if the user of the product has authored and co-authored numerous scientific articles and book does not apply it properly or at all. The compliance of the chapters on UV protection. consumer or patient that wants to protect him- or herself does 470 | Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2010, 9, 470–481 This journal is © The Royal Society of Chemistry and Owner Societies 2010 View Article Online should provide uniform UVB/UVA protection,8 because this assures that the natural spectrum of sunlight is attenuated without altering its quality and thus being in harmony with evolution. New broad-spectrum sunscreens will eventually lead us back toward uniform UV protection that sun avoidance and covering-up had provided all along. Clothing is, in a way, the ideal sunscreen;9,10 it offers practically uniform UVB/UVAprotection, is water resistant and does not have to be reapplied; the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) remains constant as long the garment is worn. In general, even an UPF 5 T-shirt is good enough to prevent sunburn. Why is that? A major reason is that fabrics provide practically uniform UVB /UVA protection, so the UPF value is maintained Fig. 1 UV protection: four key requirements and influencing in real sun. Furthermore, the UPF in vitro measurement is already stakeholders. calculated using spectral power of terrestrial sunlight, and not a UVB-biased solar simulator as is the case in SPF measurement. in turn depend again on the technology, i.e. the form of the Finally, UPF 5 may be at least comparable with SPF 15 because sunscreen must be appealing enough that it is used properly and in practical life people apply much less than the recommended frequently enough. Stakeholders may also play an important role. 2mgcm-2 of the sunscreen, resulting in a realistic SPF of 5— Conflicting messages from the various stakeholders, e.g.
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