TARANAKI to seeandplacesvisit–aslongyou’re aslaidbackthelocals. hitthecoast.Asa wave andholidaymakers ofsurfers fortherest oftheyear,there’s plenty you’re stayingandhowresourceful youare. espresso youmayornotneedit,dependingonhowlong youwideawake: tokeep Govett-Brewster Galleryandanexcellentprovincial museum.Italsohasenoughdecent Art Whangamomona –abushylittlesettlement,strandedinparadise. friendly toboot.Ontheeastern boundaryoftheprovince you’llfindNZ’sonlyrepublic – Egmont NationalPark. Itdemandstobevisited. moody andmagneticvolcanicconeofMtTaranaki, standingsmack-bang inthemiddleof travellersKiwi do,too. if onlytheyknew.It’snotoverseas visitorswhomiss the turn-offtoTaranaki; lotsof from therigs,plumpingregion withanaffluenceandstabilitythat’stheenvyofmany– riches offshore. Indeed,Taranaki istheTexas ofNewZealand, withoilandgasstreaming in one. Somewhatoffthemaindrag,region relies uponthefatoflandandnatural Halfway betweenAuckland andWellington, Taranaki sitsoutonalimbinmore waysthan Taranaki 244 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Taranaki hasaglutofblack-sand beaches,andthesummermonthsseeregion swellas (astheycallit),hometothefabulous New Plymouthisthebustlinghubof‘naki In theshadowofmountainare manysmall towns, mostlysleepyandrural,but This whenyouconsiderwhatitisthatputstheregion isremarkable onthemap:

„ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: 06 GettingexperimentalatNewPlymouth’s Finding the thebigbreaks Riding along Trippingdownmemory laneatthe Taking atriponChaddy’slifeboat forsome uporaroundthemassive coneof Walking Govett-Brewster Gallery Art &TechnologyTransport Museum Marine Park seal-spotting inthe Mt Taranaki Republic ofWhangamomona ( p257 ) andcrossingtheborderinto 45 (p257) Forgotten WorldHighway (p254) (p248) Sugar LoafIslands Surf Highway Surf (p247) „ ( p257) www.windwand.co.nz (p253) Aviation,

Sugar LoafIslands

Marine Park

Surf Surf Highway & TechnologyMuseum Mt Taranaki

Aviation, Transport 45 „ www.newplymouthnz.com

Art Gallery Govett-Brewster Forgo

tten Whangamomona

World Republic of

Highway up to freezing heights bythemountain.up tofreezing heights are theclimaticculpritsastheyare swept laden windscominginfromtheTasman Sea and frequently copssnowfalls.Themoisture- Mt Taranaki isoneof NZ’swettest spots, Climate lonelyplanet.com drop toaround5°C to 14°C. 20°C. FromMay toAugust,thetemperatures months whentemperatures hover around in the region. emphasising thechangeability of weather most sunshinehours intheNorthIsland, New Plymouthfrequently topsthelistof insummer.snow iscommoneven Ironically, theboxedchangeable (see text, p255 ) and canbeextremelyWeather onthemountain TARANAKI November toAprilare theregion’s warmer Egmont Cape Komene Lighthouse Cape Egmont Rahotu Oaonui Beach

Opunake TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth

Surf Hwy 45 Pungarehu Sugar LoafIslands Parihaka Warea T ASMN Tataraimaka ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Okato T ASMN Lucy's Gully Marine Park S EA Pihama S EA Oakura Waiaua Kaitake Range

Te Kiri Stony River Stony Oeo River Hill (154m) (Mt Egmont) Mt Taranaki Park National Egmont Paritutu Trust Rhododendron Otakeho (2518m) Auroa Awatuna National Park Hurworth Lake Rotomanu Egmont Transport & Technology Fitzroy Beach Aviation, Taranaki Riverlea Museum River Huatoki Kapuni Stream New Plymouth Manaia Egmont North Kaponga Tupare Dawson Falls Airport South TaranakiBight 3 Rowan East Egmont Falls Dawson North TaranakiBight Black Beach Block Bell Village Egmont Kaimiro Beach & Ohawe Mangamahoe Lake 45 3 Mahoe Kapuni Stream Waitara 3A port, handlingcargo formuch of thispart west coast’sonlyinternational deep-water by lush farmland, New Plymouthactsasthe Dominated byMtTaranaki andsurrounded pop 49,100 towns. surrounding NewPlymouthandothermountain, ( shuttle services p256 the) runbetween areStar smallercompanieson local routes. to NewPlymouth;DalroyExpress andWhite connecting busservices InterCity runsseveral onward connectionsto/fromNewPlymouth. and hasdomesticflights Air NewZealand Getting There&Around NW PLYMOUTH NEW Tariki Brixton Mangatoki

Waingongoro River Inglewood Hawera

Getting toMtTaranakiGetting iseasy,asmany

Pembroke Cardiff

Waitara Motonui 3

Manganui River Huirangi Midhurst Turuturumokai Pa Waitui Stratford SuperShed Ngaere Eltham

Organic Brewery

Manutahi River Tangahoe Wharehuia White Cliffs Mangamingi Kakaramea Mokoia Rotokare Lake Urenui River 3 Patea 12miles 20km 0 0 Hurleyville ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Rotorangi Pukearuhe Okoki Alton Douglas Lake State Forest White Cliffs Whenuakura

Patea River Strathmore Tarere Huiakama Rukumoana Uruti Tututawa

Matau Waverley

3 State Forest Whenuakura River Whenuakura Makahu Rimunui To Taumarunui(82km); Omoana

Forgotten Ahiti World Mt Ruapehu(147km) Te Wara Whangamomona 43 Hwy Puniwhakau (117km) Waitomo Caves Sisters (8km); To Three Moeroa (41km) To Wanganui Okau

40 245 TARANAKI TARANAKI Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ

TARANAKI locally owned businesses, andtheobligatory locally ownedbusinesses, town centre supportsaheartening numberof National Park justashort drive away.The beaches bothinandarounditEgmont arts sceneandanoutdoorsy focus,withgood of theNorthIsland.Thecityhasathriving 246 35 Beach (1km);Paritutu5km) Spa (700m);Ngamotu To TaranakiThermal Todd Energy St Mary'sChurch...... Richmond Cottage...... Real TartGallery...... ...... Puke ArikiLanding...... ...... New PlymouthObservatory...... Kina...... Kawaroa Park...... Govett-Brewster ArtGallery...... Brooklands Park...... Wadsworths...... TSB ForeignExchange...... Travel Connexions...... Post Office...... Phoenix UrgentDoctors...... New Plymouthi-SITE...... (see13) Medicross...... Automobile Association...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION AquaticCentre...... (see 10) Oakura (15km) Beach (4km); To Back 1 Heights Churchhill 3 2 To SugarLoafIslandsMarinePark(3km) NEW PLYMOUTH Kawaroa Park Seafood ontheBeach(300m) Lee Breakwater(300m); Happy Chaddy'sCharters(300m); To BeltRoadHolidayPark(300m); (700m) To Hospital St Aubyn St AAAI • e lmuh TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth

Hine St

32 Morely St Morely

10 Mt Edgecumbe St Edgecumbe Mt AC 20

Devon St West Leisure Park(1km); St Weymouth Vivian St

Fulford St To EgmontEco 25 Barrett St Young St Loft (14km) 3 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Monument 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ὈὈ ὈὈ

King St

B2 B2 C2 C2 C2 C2 B2 B1 B2 B1 C3 B1 B2 B3 B2 A1 B2 D3 Frankley Rd St Dawson Powderham St 21 T ASMN

&Patisserie...... EATING SLEEPING El Condor...... Down toEarth...... Daily News...... (see 13) Chaos...... Arborio...... (see 13) Andre's Pies Andre's L'Escargot...... Waterfront...... Timata Ora...... Sunflower Lodge...... Shoestring Backpackers...... (see23) Seaspray House...... Nice Hotel...... Cottage Mews...... Carrington Motel...... Bella Vista...... Arcadia Lodge...... Wind Wand...... (see14) Verge......

9

Bulteel St St Queen

St Aubyn St Aubyn St

S EA

Mill B

Rd 2

Huatoki Valley Huatoki

46 Walkway

Egmont St Egmont

43 To Hurworth St Robe Hua 44 19 Marsland 16 28 17

48

11 to (8km) ki 31 1 ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ 18 14 Hill 12 Ariki St

Stream 13

29 Brougham St Brougham 26 39

Carrington 37

24 Taranaki lands.Inthe1820stheyfledto Local Maori History thelongest mainstreetcruise in the country. small-town convoyof boy-racers –whoget to Currie St Currie

St 22 4

7 Gill St

47

St Carrington

38 Victoria Rd Victoria 5 30 33 32 31 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 Coastal Walkway

Molesworth St

40 D2 B2 B2 A1 C2 D2 C3 B2 A2 D2 A2 B2 B1 D2 B2 Liardet St Liardet Zoo (500m) Brooklands (500m); To Bowlof 41

Devon St East

Courtenay St iwi 34 Pukekura TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Cycle InnBike Hire...... Bus Centre...... Air NewZealand...... TSB Showplace...... Top TownCinema5...... Matinée...... 55...... Rosie O'Grady's...... PowderRoom...... (see 46) Crowded House...... Ultra Lounge...... Snax intheCity...... Sandwich Extreme...... Petit Paris...... Pak NSave...... Fresha...... Empire...... (see 46) Elixir......

Leach St Pendarves St Lemon St (tribes)have longcontested Park 45

Gilbert St 400m 0.2miles 0 0 15 Fitzroy Beach(2.3km);Pole 6

Fillis St 49

TSB Stadium Stratford (43km);Hawera(70km);

42 Rent-a-Dent (2.3km);NewPlymouth Gover St Gover Woolcombe Tce Airport (10.3km);Waitara(15.3km) 30 Lodge (1km);Tupare(7km); Beach StreetSurfShop(1.8km); 33 To DOCOffice(1km);EastEnd 27 Top 10HolidayPark(2.8km); Te HenuiWalkway(1.3km); (13km); 36 23 To BK'sEgmontMotor Reserve &Beach(1.3km); lonelyplanet.com Wanganui (160km)

Brooklands Cameron St Cameron D Park

8

Eliot St Eliot Octavius Pl

Buller St Coronation Ave Coronation 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 3 C2 C2 B2 C2 C2 D2 A2 C2 C2 B2 C2 B2 C2 B2 B2 D2 1841 thecoastof Taranaki deserted seemed the fray.WhenEuropeansettlers arrived in (New Plymouth),where whalers soonjoined Only asmallgroupremained, atOkokiPa tookholdofwho eventually thearea in1832. Cook Straitregion toescapeWaikatotribes, lonelyplanet.com Medicross MEDICAL SERVICES at manyof the hostels and motels. Internet accessisavailable atthei-SITEand ACCESSINTERNET service Ambulance, police&fire EMERGENCY Wadsworths BOOKSHOPS co.nz and www.windwand.co.nz. the free try. Forinformationabout theregion pickup allegedly thelongest mainstreet inthecoun- andWest)isthecity’shub St(East Devon economically healthyin recent times. South Taranaki have Bight kept theprovince and thecreation of the anaturalgasfieldoff The discovery of natural gasandoilin1959 bility waslargely foundedondairyfarming. through dubious transactions. confiscatedbeen withtheremainder acquired By 1870over 500hectares of theirlandhad in 1840andwere treated brutally asrebels. had refused tosigntheTreaty of Waitangi Taranaki Waitara. seized the settlers chiefs rilla warfare andheldtherest of theprovince, erupted in1860. WhileMaori engaged inguer- abandon negotiationswithMaori, andwar greedy forthefertile land around Waitara. and Europeansettlers becameincreasingly gradually acquired more landfromMaori, claimed aroundNewPlymouth.TheCrown just over 10sqkmof the250sqkmithad Companywasonlyallowed the NewZealand upheld whenGovernor Fitzroyruledthat jected tothelandsale.Theirclaimswere turned after years of exile,theyfiercelyob- tracts fromthe remaining Maori. extensive Companybought The NewZealand and there waslittleoppositiontolandclaims. Orientation &Information The settlers forcedthegovernmentThe settlers to When othermembers of localtribesre- In atimeof relative peace,economicsta- Taranaki ( % ( % 06-759 8915; 8EgmontSt; 06-759 4350; 21 Devon StEast) 06-759 4350;21Devon TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth guideorvisitwww.taranaki. ( % 111) h 8am-8pm) Wed-Fri, Wed-Fri, 9am-5pm Tue) www.doc.govt.nz; 52 Rimu St; www.doc.govt.nz; 52Rimu St; .aa.co.nz; St; 49-55Powderham free; www.govettbrewster.com; Sts;admission cnrQueen&King The GALLERIES Sights New Plymouthi-SITE ofConservation Department Association Automobile TOURIST INFORMATION Post Office POST Exchange Foreign TSB Connexions Travel there are twoforeign-exchange specialists. All major banksare represented inthetown,plus MONEY Doctors Urgent Phoenix Puke Puke building. Ariki 9am-9pmWed,9am-5pm Sat&Sun)Inthe Thu &Fri, St; .newplymouthnz.com; 1Ariki S East) St h whaling daysofthe1830s captivityamongstTaranaki inthe satisfactory Maori accountofBettyGuard’slargely fictionalised (although MtTaranaki wasthereal star) chomping beautifulnativebush purchasedequalsonelessvarmint possum product third degree burnsonyourfeet don’t mindfineblacksandinyourcranniesand every March atBrooklands Bowl( March every p249 ) Go green 45 Highway onSurf Manaia the Bread CapitalofNewZealand’ signoutsideof Tackiest tourist attraction Festival Swim at Watch Listen to Read Drink Eat TARANAKI FACTS Organic Brewery ( p254 ) Twain and Fleetwood Mac onthelocalradiostation Twain andFleetwoodMac h Govett-Brewster Art Gallery Gallery Art Govett-Brewster AnythingatSugarJuiceCafé(see p258 ) 8.30am-8.30pm) 10am-5pm) A bottle of Mike’s Mild AlefromWhiteCliffs Mild AbottleofMike’s The Captive Wife

The LastSamurai, (www.nzpost.co.nz; St) Currie WOMAD (World of Music Arts andDance) Arts WOMAD (WorldofMusic Oakura Beach( Oakura p257 ) –fantasticifyou Way,waytoomuchBryanAdams,Shania Environmental Products ( EnvironmentalProducts p256 ) –every isarguably thecountry’s best ( % ( % byFiona the Kidman, ( 06-769 9440; 31 Devon StEast) 06-769 9440;31Devon % (AA; ( starring TomCruise starring % 0800 763759;www h 06-968 3713; 87 Devon 06-968 3713;87Devon h h % 06-759 4295;95Vivian (DOC; 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) The‘Welcometo 8.30am-5pm Mon& 9am-6pm Mon,Tue, 06-759 4010;www

% ( % 06-759 0350; 06-759 6060;

247 TARANAKI TARANAKI TARANAKI visit self-guided tourof around 30 self-guided historic sites. able fromthei-SITE, outlinesaninteresting The HISTORIC PLACES thatrumble podlike seats and glow. of theprovince whiletheaudiencesitsin Taranaki showtells thehistory Experience life andcolonialexhibits. Thehalf-hourly extensive collectionof Maori artefacts, wild- restaurant. The andArborio library,DailyNewsCafé seum, 9am-5pm Sat&Sun) free; ( Translating as‘Hillof Chiefs’, PUKE ARIKI Kina souvenirs. andaffordable NZ-made portable 4pm Sat,11am-3pmSun) StWest; 6450; 62Devon regularly andsomeworksare for sale. 10.30am-4pmSat&Sun). Fri, .org.nz; 19EgmontSt;admissionfree; work. his morewing tothegalleryshowcase of works. Moves are afoottoaddaspecial as wellsculpture andsuper-clever kinetic here, with showings of his1930sanimation Lye. Hisworkiswellrepresentedartist Len connection withNZsculptor,filmmaker and international shows, it’smostfamousforits temporary –often –localand experimental jewel inthetown’scrown.Presenting con- regional artgalleryandthecrowd-pulling 248 % Just aroundthecorneris whatlocalartistshaveTo see tooffer, Shadbolt’s very funny Parihaka ifyoucan.ReadersshouldlookoutforDickScott’s at Parihaka (seetheboxed text, p259 ). the warsthere were massive passive-resistance campaign landconfiscationsandanextraordinary when localforceswere general,Titikowaru. surprisinglysuccessfulundertheremarkable Following when Waikato followedbytwowarswiththegovernmentWaikato, (seeboxed text on p36 ) –firstin1860–61, turbulent history.The region betweenlocal hasseenconflicts Ever sinceMtTaranaki fledhere toescaperomanticdifficulties( p254 ), theregion hashada MAORI NZ: TARANAKI Tourism Taranaki (www.mtt.org.nz). 06-759 6060; www.pukeariki.com; 1 Ariki St;admission 1Ariki 06-759 6060;www.pukeariki.com; h , almostopposite, offers similar. Heritage Walkway AAAI • e lmuh TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth To further explore thehistoryoflocalMaori,visitPuke ( To further Ariki below ) inNewPlymouth,and Real Tart Gallery Tart Real 9am-6pm Mon&Tue, 9am-9pmWed, Thu&Fri, ishometothei-SITE,mu- iwi museum , traditionallyanenemy( p218 ), cametoTaranaki’s aid;andthenagainin1865–69, , a gallery selling lotsof, agalleryselling h

( % 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, Exhibitions change Exhibitions Monday’s Warriors booklet($5),avail-

(admission free) 06-769 5717;www.tact h Verge Verge 10am-5pm Mon- Puke Ariki Puke ( % hasan 06-769 . More informationonlocal

.co.nz/chaddiescharters; adult/child$30/10). .co.nz/chaddiescharters; Chaddy’s Charters settlers’ land acquisition. At the base of landacquisition.Atthebase settlers’ the Pole the eastern extreme of St,the Devon here. chiefs bravery, Maori theBritishalsoburiedseveral (1860–61 and1865–69).Impressed bytheir who diedduringtheTaranaki Wars Land the headstonesof earlysettlers andsoldiers oldest stonechurch inNZ.Itsgraveyard has Cottage wassturdilybuilt of stone. tages, which were madeof timber,Richmond was builtin1853.Unlike cot- mostearly Brougham Sts;admissionfree; bikes are available for hire too. weather permitting. Paddleboats, kayaks and Breakwater,Departs dailyfrom Lee tideand on thisone-hour bobaroundonthechop. money: expectat least fourlaughs aminute quite thecharacter andoffers great valuefor Lee Breakwater promenade. Centre Interpretation more aboutthemarineparkattiny allyearround.Youcanlearnsome stay comehereseals fromJunetoOctober but birdsandover Mostsea 400NZ fur seals. eroded volcanicremnants, are arefuge for Marine Park in1991.Theislands,which are shore were madeintothe Sugar LoafIslands side of Paritutu, andthewaters 1kmoff- onthewest Beach The rugged islets,Back SUGAR LOAF ISLANDS MARINE PARK person) toppedbya triumphant Maori. showsasulkingPakehapole, acarving (white You canvisittheislandswith Church St Mary’s Cottage Richmond About 2.5kmfromthecentre of townon waserected byMaori in1844tolimit iwi Ask That Mountain (tribes) andinvadersfromthe

(Vivian St) (Vivian ( iwi %

canbefoundatMaori ( ( h 06-758 9133;www.windwand % h 9am–5pm daily) 06-759 6060; cnr Ariki & 06-759 6060;cnrAriki , builtin1846,isthe 11am-3.30pm Sat&Sun) lonelyplanet.com orMaurice Chaddy’s on the Happy Fitzroy

a world-classoutdoorsound-shell,hometo through a15cm through refractor telescope. gramme and,iftheweatherisclear,viewing pro- includeaplanetarium St. Publicnights Marsland Hill; suggesteddonationadult/child$3/2; Hill; Marsland The MARSLAND HILL&OBSERVATORY lonelyplanet.com in modern times – this 45m-high kookyki- in modern times–this45m-high – themanwhohas putthistownonthemap Lye cluding theWind Wand. DesignedbyLen Landing gallery and medical museum. 4pm Sat&Sun) h dell withover 300varieties,a 2000-year-old puriritree, arhododendron include a today.Spectacles chimney survive destroyed byMaori, thefireplace though and park wasoncethegroundsof home, a settler’s likes of Richard. EltonJohn The andCliff WOMAD ( right ) andperformedinbythe by,the close cutintothe race seating surrounding hills. cricket oval intheEnglishtradition,withter- pilgrimage of it.Theparkalsohasa delightful makelegendary a thatmanyNewZealanders (early DecembertoearlyFebruary) isnowso The and summerevenings. for easyexplorationof thelake onweekends Row boats,costing$5for30minutes, make 5pm) 4pm. Nexttothelake, the 8.30amand openbetween display houses bush walks,streams, waterfalls, pondsand centre, theparkhas49hectares of gardens, nationwide. A10-minute strollfromthecity Monopoly –nootherlandmarkpolledhigher in 2007wasvoted inastheMayfair of NZ as but nonesodelightful picturesqueNew Plymouthhasseveral parks PARKS scramble tothetop.Well worth it. viewscanbeearnedbya20-minute These beyond. to thetownandbackmountain miles around:outtotheSugarLoaves, down Precipice’. for Fromthesummityoucansee nametranslates appropriatelywhose as‘Rising Paritutu, hillock asteep-sided andcraggy Above westof thepowerstation townis PARITUTU 9.30pm Tue 8.30-10pmTue Mar-Oct, Nov-Feb) Along thecitywaterfront is Adjoining Pukekura is 8.30am-5pm) serves up light mealsandcream uplight teas. serves New PlymouthObservatory , ahistoricarea withsculptures, in- , a former hospital, now anart , aformerhospital, andthe Bowl ofBrooklands TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth Gables Pukekura Park Pukekura Brooklands Park Tea

(admission free; Festival ofLights

zoo

(www.bowl.co.nz) ( House % (admission free;

is off Robe isoff 06-753 2358; Puke Ariki Ariki Puke ( h

h , which 10am- h and, 7.30- 1- ,

Windsurf Taranaki Windsurf guidedsurftours.ised Forwindsurfing,try Surf Taranaki Surf and tours. Theinexperiencedcantry $15) tional artists perform attheBrooklandsBowl perform tional artists each March. www.womad.co.nz) Adiversearrayoflocalandinterna- festival, held late October/early November festival, heldlateOctober/early each year. www.rhodo.co.nz) NZ’soldestandmostfamousgarden WOMAD WOMAD Festival &Garden Rhododendron Festivals &Events tonic. absolute on arrival:soakaloneorwithfriends. An oil around1910.Theprivate baths are filled Spa Thermal The warmmineralwater thatfillsthe HOT POOLS attractive walktothe city centre. Walkway and interesting streamside amble. to thecity’ssouthernboundary,isapleasant EndReserve extending fromthecoastatEast ofscenic orientation the town. RotomanutoPortTaranaki,Lake makes fora park walks.The7km and localreserve Plymouth, includingcoastal, The i-SITEhasleafletsonwalksaroundNew WALKING Charters Surf up. guarantee you’llstand St, Fitzroy; lesson&hire $75) as SurfHighway 45 ( p257 ). the coastthatroadsouthisnowknown In factthere are somanysurfbeaches along popular (andreachable byOkatoBusLines). the western endof isalso thecity.Oakura nearParitutu, Beach, at decent surfatBack andthere’s End Beaches, Fitzroy andEast totheeastern edgeing. Close of townare are world renowned for surfing andwindsurf- beaches ofThe black,volcanic-sand Taranaki SURFING &WINDSURFING Activities pool and indoor pool. adult/child $4/3) and the is grassy poleness. Furtherwestalongthewater’s edge netic sculpture isatrulybeloved iconof bendy Beach Street Surf Shop Surf Beach Street wasdiscovered for during thesearch (World of Music Arts &Dance; Arts (World ofMusic , followingHuatokiStream, makes an Todd Energy AquaticCentre Todd Energy Kawaroa Park Kawaroa

( ( , which hasawaterslide, outdoor ( % % %

027 4899232;lesson&hire $80) 06-759 1666;8BonithonAve; 30min 06-751 2483) ( % 06-769 9291;lesson& hire $45). offers lessons,gear hire , thesite of squash courts Coastal Walkway ( % provides custom- 06-758 0400;39Beach Taranaki Coastal ( % Te HenuiWalkway % ( %

06-759 8412; 06-759 8412; Huatoki Valley Huatoki 06-759 6060; Tandem Taranaki , from

, who

249 TARANAKI TARANAKI , TARANAKI few minutes walktotown.Abigoldhouse range of sightseeing tours starting range ofsightseeingtoursstarting from $75. highlights. full day$95)Runstoursofthecityandsurrounding pinewood cabins down below which sleep a pinewood cabinsdownbelow which sleep mixed dormsinthemainlodge, andsmaller with chirping birdsandababbling creek. Has pi .egmont.co.nz; 12ClawtonSt;sites$32,dm/d/f$28/65/125; feels fresh, arty and attractive. furniture. Arare, bunk-free backpackers that retrofordable withwell-chosen andantique renovatedbeen butremains relaxed andaf- ceilings, ithasrecentlywith glorioushigh pi .seasprayhouse.co.nz; 13WeymouthSt;dm/s/d$27/43/66; barbecue for guests’ use. is asuntrap:deckandhandkerchief lawn,plus area and chilled-out sunroom.Outtheback downstairs dormsare handytothedining rooms are andquiet,whilethe secluded andbrimmingwithcharacter.tained Upstairs isn’t thefanciestoptionbutit’swellmain- inalabyrinthine heritage building,this Set .shoestring.co.nz; 48Lemon St;dm/s$25/43,d&tw$62; TVs. with from asun-drenched balconyandgoodrooms from thebeach, thisbackpackers views hassea road fromPuke Arikiandastone’sthrow St;dm$20-25,r&tw$59; .co.nz; 25Ariki Sunflower Lodge BUDGET to well-priced optionsclose the city. viewswilledge upthepricebutthere areSea Sleeping Taranaki Tours Club New PlymouthAero Discovery Kayak Heliview Cycletours Taranaki Cruise NZTours Tours 250 gentle Waitara rapids. River hire $50)Paddle outtotheSugarLoafIslandsorover tours around the area. self-guided $99-650)Offers hire &back-up service incl bike strong on Maori culture andnatural strong onMaori history. themedtours, several .com; half-/full-day$80/150)Offers flights starting flights starting from $44. .airnewplymouth.co.nz) Standardandcustomisedscenic Egmont Eco Leisure Park EcoLeisure Egmont o Backpackers Shoestring AAAI • e lmuh TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth ) ) An immaculate facility set inaglade Animmaculate facilityset Areal homeawayfromhome,justa ( % Seaspray House Seaspray 0508 435484;www.heliview.co.nz) A ( ( % ( %

( % % ( 0800 886877;www.taranakitours 06-758 3222; [email protected]; 06-758 3222;[email protected]; % 06-769 5506; half-day trips incl 06-769 5506;half-daytrips 06-759 0050;www.sunflowerlodge 06-756 7727;1-7daytours ( %

( ( ( % % % 06-755 0500;www 06-758 0404;www 06-759 8934;www 06-753 5720;www i Acrossthe ) i

) floor unitsandlotsof parking,soisgoodfor main southroad,thislodge sports ground- minute walktothe town centre. interesting Breakwater Lee area, about a10- overlookingsits atopabluff theincreasingly park isinFitzroy,3.5kmeastof thetown Sixteen tidy, roomy units close toPukekura tidy,roomyunitsclose Sixteen motel.co.nz; St;s/d/f$75/85/125; 61Carrington Motel Carrington MIDANGE laundry and spacious kitchen. tings such asalife-sized chess trampoline, set, centre, cottages andfamilyfit- withpleasant flats$70-110,units$80-200; tourist 2566; www.nptop10.co.nz; St;sites/cabins$38/55, 29Princes There’s aspa and barbecue too. asisthegenteelfast roomisadelight, lounge. cess andplentyof peaceandquiet.Thebreak- included inprice),itoffers warmth,easyac- editor. Nowabedandbreakfast (continental was originallybuiltforthelocalnewspaper Formerly arest home,thisbigoldlemonvilla .net; cnrYoung&WeymouthSts;dm/d/f$35/85/120; p 0228; www.beltroad.co.nz; 2BeltRd;sites$30,cabins$45-95; Egmont cake, home-madeby lodge mother. tosharein theearlyevening inthenightly thereareas are upandcomfortable.Be wellset maximum of four. The kitchen anddining enettes. Bonuses, suchenettes. asfairtrade coffee to Bonuses, facilities only;fancier roomshave fullkitch- roomshave intown. Basic right toast-making whowanttobe pendable option for those &QueenSts;d$115-150; .co.nz; cnrKing but comfortable and clean. roomtomove. whoneed those Unitsare plain $165; .egmontmotorlodge.co.nz; 115CoronationAve; s&d$110, f packers andtieupsome friendly socialising. back- next doortotheco-ownedShoestring There isa lawnoutfront,plusyoucanpop rooms andsomeniceantiquefurnishings. a guest.Well-kept roomshave smallishbath- motel where you’llfeel like family,ratherthan 48 Lemon St; becue. Very familyfriendlyand great value. kitchen facilities,large grassyareas andbar- Park and10minutes walktotown.Good Bella Vista MotorLodge BK’s Egmont Cottage Mews New PlymouthTop10HolidayPark Arcadia Lodge Belt RoadHolidayPark ) Thispohutukawa-covered holidaypark

pi

s/d $90/100; ) Opposite onthe theracecourse

( % (

% ( ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % % 06-769 5932;www.bellavistamotels 06-758 0403;www.shoestring.co.nz; 06-757 9431;www.newplymouth 06-769 9100;www.arcadialodge p )

Asmallandmodest ( %

( % 0800 804204,06-758 pis 06-758 5216;www

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( %

pi ) Ade- ) This 06-758 i ) )

Gover St;s&d$120-130) rooms withadecorof florals,giantteddy bears spacioussuites. Comfortable fast withseveral abound. rooms, plunge, free bicyclehire andinternet inall lonelyplanet.com Cocktails andNZ winesareCocktails also on offer. which isalwaysreassuring inastrange town. Terrific thekitchen too, brunch. Youcansee flavoursome and clearlyprepared withpride. Med-influenced café-stylefare isgenerous and and ishandilylocated insidePuke Ariki.The views, It’s airy,artyandmodern,withsea this isarguably of thestar thelocalfoodshow. & dinner) breakfast/lunch $10-17,dinner$20-30; and pleasant rooftop balcony. delicately-done Asian. Boastsastylishinterior intelligently, fresh Medserved flavours and Plentyofevenings. topqualityNZproduce during thedayanduppingante inthe upmarket caféfare bar andrestaurant serving $5-14, dinner$25-30; Ultra Lounge RESTAURANTS ways(with done several parsley; without). some zestlessness andalotof thing thesame in thewayof choice andvalue,beprepared for While there’s not Eating and inevents and specialises dinner parties. Table atNice,hasanelegantdeckandgarden, and agrandpiano. restaurant, Thein-house rooms while thegroundfloorsuite hasseveral There are roomswithlarge seven bathrooms, withluxuryfurnishingsand tail from toptobottom,exudingattention tode- Brougham St;d/ste$225/300) Salt. restaurant, fromthebarand all –rooms,butcertainly It’s gotterrific viewsfromsome–butnot the showwithallmod-consandbalconies. are pretty steal flash, whilethepenthouses if theboss ispaying.The minimaliststudios the Waterfront particularly istheplacetostay, 1 EgmontSt;r$190-550; Waterfront TOP END ings andall amenities. necessary afour-posterand even bed.Qualityfurnish- o Nice Hotel Timata Ora Despite lookinglike grater, acheese Arborio (

%

( ( ( % % % 06-769 5301; www.waterfront.co.nz; 06-769 5301;www.waterfront.co.nz; TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth 06-758 8444; 75 Devon StEast;lunch 06-758 8444;75Devon 06-758 6423;www.nicehotel.co.nz; 71 06-757 9917;www.timataora.co.nz; 55 h

( Ahomelybedandbreak- % too

pi lunch &dinner) 06-759 6060; inside Puke Ariki; Ariki; 06-759 6060;insidePuke much toquibbleabout This place is high class Thisplaceishigh ) Sleek andsnazzy, Sleek h A fashionable breakfast, lunch objets d’art . turning outpropercrispybaguettes andtart treats. Apopular boulangerie andpatisserie meals $7-9; Sandwich Extreme QUICK EATS and fairtradeare a priority. fare.sounding) evening Organic, free range tosome innovativetoast, through (ifsilly- from coffee, cake, on bagels andeggs beer with adistinctNZtwist.Offers everything has anAmerican-dinerfeel aboutit,albeit coming drop-inatanytimeof day,thiscafé $5-15, dinner$15-26; monsieur for lunch. au citronplusthelikes of omelette andcroque h options, andtheircoffee reigns supreme. mix of wholesome/interesting andlardy/sugary onthegroove-ometer.high Thefood’sahappy dependable and,withitsboho stylings,pretty andgrimy,Chaosisgenerally little bitscruffy $6-16; sites orbrowsing mags and newspapers. intoCNNorBBC can enjoywhileplugging thatyou food such andmuffins assandwiches to eatinpeace. Inexpensive, fillingcounter library, thisplaceisperfect wholike forthose h plus great cakes and biscuits for afters. andfilos, lasagne salads, Nice sandwiches, to thewallandasunnycourtyardoutback. Kiwi tearoom withpretty china plates nailed $4-10; Empire CAFÉS gout-inducing, plus killer cocktails. All classicFrench fare, indulgent andlargely thebarandkepthas nodoubtraised it there. since 1977,wedoff ourberet tothemanwho upsnailsinthe’naki Audaciously serving for thebestintown,thisisasgooditgets. mains $36-40; minimum order policy. tions gosomewaytomake upforthebizarre plusvery Heartypasta pleasingdesserts. por- offering fresh pizza,calzone,and andtasty $20-36; Petit Paris Petit Paris Chaos Daily News Elixir L’Escargot Andre’s 7am-5pm) lunch) El Condor h h h

( ( ( Situated in a pleasant cornerof Situated inapleasant the % % % breakfast &lunch) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) dinner Tue-Sat) h Ooh lala:it’slashingsof buttery h 06-769 9020; 117 Devon StEast;snacks/lunch 06-769 9020;117Devon 06-759 8080; 36 Brougham St; snacks $4-6, meals 06-759 8080;36BroughamSt;snacks$4-6,meals 06-758 1148; 112 Devon StWest;lunches 06-758 1148;112Devon ( (

% %

lunch) ( % dinner Mon-Sat) 06-757 5436; 170 Devon StEast;mains 06-757 5436;170Devon 06-759 0398; 34 Currie St;lunches$5-12; 06-759 0398;34Currie h

Toasties, baked spudsand 06-769 5386; 1 Ariki St;meals$4-7; 06-769 5386;1Ariki ( %

( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) Acosyandpopularjoint Notsomuch chaotic asa 06-759 6999; 52 Devon StEast; 06-759 6999;52Devon 06-758 4812;37BroughamSt; Aperfectly evolved Ifyou’re looking Awel-

251 TARANAKI TARANAKI TARANAKI of whopre- theonlyones, actually)forthose late Sun-Thu, &Sat) noon-lateFri Breakers, Rosie’soffers the bestpintof rock. Housed inaformer theatre,rock. Housed theinterior fer top shelf toTui, andelectronicato’80s Matinée Entertainment decorous shapes –ifyou still can. (which features frequent DJs)to throwafew watering wines.Thensidleontothedancefloor super-smooth andmouth- cocktails bar serving h big screen TV. nick), restaurant and (frieswitheverything) all-ages (ingood activitywithpooltables mains $15-26; a sheltered lane. phere isprovided inside; outsiderseating in beers toboot.Cosyandconvivialatmos- Guinness intownandaraftof othergood East; mains$10-23; Rosie O’Grady’s Drinking supermarket isjustwestof the town centre. the local milkshakessandwiches, andice cream, while grocery range, aswellmakingcheap, fresh town dairy,thisplacestocksasmallbutsmart wholefoods. organic whichnally opposite sells isDowntoEarth, offer. There isacaféonthespot,whilediago- much of itrepresenting thebestNZhasto foryourpicnicbasket, youneed everything $2-6; for goodpiesandslabs of cake. town.Diveoff themainroadthrough onin waistlines since1972,thisisaneasypull-over St; snacks$2-6; Pies&Patisserie Andre’s SELF-CATERING good. lickin’ garlic aioliandburgers Finger onciabatta. Fish freshyou say? theboat,kumarachips, off 8.30pm) 43 OceanViewPde,Lee Breakwater; meals$8-18; fast. and other refreshingly fresh simple fare served 252 o Powder Room Crowded House Snax intheCity Fresha 4pm-late Tue-Sat) h AAAI • e lmuh TARANAKI ••NewPlymouth Gourmetfish andchips. Howgourmet,

9am-6pm) ( % ( % Pak NSave Seafood ontheBeach Seafood h 06-759 2088; 69 Devon StWest; 06-759 2088;69Devon h 06-758 8284; cnr Devon &MorleySts;snacks 06-758 8284;cnrDevon

( 10am-late) %

Adrool-worthyemporiumof h Get all made up for this slinky allmadeupforthisslinky Get 6am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) (

(15 BroughamSt)T %

( % 06-758 5373; cnr Gover & Devon St 06-758 5373;cnrGover&Devon 10am-late) 06-759 2089; 108 Devon St West; StWest; 06-759 2089;108Devon

(53 Leach St; 06-759 4921; 93 Devon StEast; 06-759 4921;93Devon

( A throbbinghive of % Agoodoption(one 06-758 3062;44Leach Located behind

he onlydown- h ( % Expanding 8am-midnight) 06-769 9906; h h 4.30pm- 11am- of thecentre. .co.nz) ($36, three hours) withpick-upsavailable Auckland ($54,five hours) andHamilton BUS to otherNZdestinations. minutes, onedaily),withonwardconnections (55 minutes, five daily)andChristchurch (85 Auckland (45minutes, daily),Wellington eight StEast) Devon Air NewZealand AIR at thei-SITE Scenic, Interislander andBluebridge ferries You canbooktickets forInterCity, Tranz Getting There&Away cinema complex,thefloorasea of popcorn. .co.nz; StEast;adult/child$12.50/7) 119Devon (www.ticketdirect.co.nz). Ticketek tered people. Forbookingsgoto bythesame the Bowlof Brooklands( p249 ) stages avarietyof bigperformances, asdoes theShowplace intheoldoperahouse, Housed albeit reminiscent of atin of sardines. ahighlight, thisisforyou.Balcony midnight, Sun late) puffing afford and people-watching. outside whilethetables enough is pleasant shuttle to/from theairport – book online. adult $22) .npairportshuttle.co.nz; New PlymouthAirport Getting Around and manysmalltowns in between. ($33, 3¾hours), Wellington($47, 6¼ hours) Wanganui ($24,2½hours), Palmerston North each andoneatweekends to/from weekday Hawera. from hours). four four hours) andontoWellington($61, ($35, three hours), Palmerston North ($45, hours), Auckland($68,sixhours), Wanganui to/fromHamiltonruns dailybuses ($44,four Egmont andArikiStreets. The buscentre islocated atthecornerof White Star White Dalroy Express InterCity Top TownCinema5 Showplace TSB 55

operates a daily service between operates adailyservice ( % Ifyou’ve stillgotenergy toburnat ( 06-759 0997;55EgmontSt;admission$9; www.ticketek.co.nz) orTicket Direct

( hasdailydirect to/from flights %

( inside Puke Ariki. Airport Shuttle Airport % 06-759 9039;www.intercitycoach.co.nz) (

%

( ( % 06-758 3338) % 06-757 3300;www.airnz.co.nz; 12

(

( % % 06-759 0021; 92 Devon StWest) 06-759 0021;92Devon 06-759 0197;www.dalroytours operates adoor-to-door 06-755 2250) 06-759 9077;www.nzcinema ( % hastwobuses lonelyplanet.com 06-769 5974;www is 11km east is11kmeast , adminis- Aworn h Thu-

by therenowned architect, James Chapman- head to head h September toNovember.September Thisbeautiful, and azaleas,which generally flowerfrom a remarkable collectionof rhododendrons 20km southof NewPlymouth,ishometo h Rd;adult/child$12/free; 2290Carrington .pukeiti.org.nz; corner of Egmont and Ariki Sts. The mainstopisatthebuscentre onthe andsouthtoOakura. well asnorthtoWaitara $3-5) lonelyplanet.com 9.5km south of NewPlymouth,for walking Egmont Mangamahoe, onSH3,stopatLake If you’re headingtowards StratfordorNorth tion, Transport & Technology Museum Lake Mangamahoe &TaranakiAvia- into thelives of early settlers. Wars, interesting andassuch affords insights ofabandoned atthestart theTaranaki Land of asettlement The cottage isthesolesurvivor four-time NZ primeminister Harry Atkinson. 8km southof NewPlymouth,wasbuiltby Rd; adult/child$3.50/1; This 1856 Hurworth Bluebells, birdsong–a picnicker’s dream. stunning 3.6hectare gardensurroundingit. this 7kmtripsouthof town willlikely bethe Taylor. Itisapicture, of butthehighlight Tupare Tupare both partof Egmont National Park. thePouakaiandKaitakebetween Ranges, time of year. Thescenicjourneythere passes bush-bordered gardenisworthvisitingany This foursq-km Pukeiti RhododendronTrust of things otherpleasant to do. cle of theregion’s attractions,there are plenty EgmontAlthough NationalPark isthepinna- AROUND NEWPLYMOUTH p256. City Cabs .co.nz; StEast) 592Devon day $15) Cycle Inn Bike Hire Hire Cycle InnBike Citybus For shuttle services toMtTaranaki,For shuttle services see 9am-5pm) 9am-5pm Oct-Mar, 10am-3pm Apr-Sep) 9am-5pm Oct-Mar, services run on weekdays aroundtown,as runonweekdays services

( rents outbicycles.Forcheap carhire, %

Rent-a-Dent

( %

( % 06-765 7127; 487 Rd;admissionfree; 06-765 7127;487Mangorei isaTudor-style designed house cottage 06-757 5580). 06-758 2799; www.okatobus.co.nz; adult 06-758 2799;www.okatobus.co.nz; TARANAKI ••AroundNewPlymouth ortocatch call ataxi

garden h (

( ( % % % 11am-3pm Sat&Sun) 06-758 7418; 133 Devon St;per 06-758 7418;133Devon 06-756 8606; 906 Carrington 06-756 8606;906Carrington 06-757 5362;www.rentadent

( % 06-752 4141;www ,

located , about Energy Energy hundreds of whiletheylactate cowsrotating adult incl afternoon tea$50; adult inclafternoon Plymouth is Waitara Plymouth isWaitara , 14kmalongSH3. mega-machines that gowhoosh ’n’ click. remotely interested incows,dairy productsor mesmerising and well-worth alookifyou’re milking shed. Strangely in thisstate-of-the-art SuperShed youattheweirdbut kindawonderful will see Ngatimaru Rd,which, after five minutes’ drive down turn-off Not farpastisaright-hand (p247). Plymouth New or ( p235) brochure fromthei-SITEsinOtorohanga Hamilton. thefree Get the waytoWaitomo,andoneof theroadsto Plymouth isthescenicroute of SH3.This is Heading northtowardsWaikatofromNew North viaSH3 doubles asabar at night. and chippery and doingeat-inandtakeaway, $25-28; the dayandwildboarsausages at night. super-sized squares custard andcoffee during Sat) $4-8, mains$18-25; quiet and clean. only accommodationoptioninthetown.It’s St;s/d$75/90; .co.nz; 87bRata tion centre is located inside. toys of Kiwiyesteryear. Thevisitorinforma- charmingwhich shows andsells sand-cast ( foremost feature isthecute at ket suppliesandanoteworthy stopforapie Inglewood isanadequate stopforsupermar- Handy the littletownof tothemountain, Inglewood amazing guy. bee madebythe miscellany. Ask thestuff tosee trains, automobiles andgeneral household lane withitsramshackle displaysof oldplanes, tripdownmemory a fascinatingandnostalgic $7/2; 2845; www.nzmuseums.co.nz; Rd;adult/child cnrSH3&Kent &TechnologyTransport Museum % Mt Taranaki reflected in the lake. tracks andthepossibilityof aphotographof Nelsons Bakery Nelsons Bakery The first major townnorthof New Funkfish Grill Caffe Macfarlane’s Opposite thelake isthe White Eagle White , housed inaheritage building,offers, housed 06-756 7030;www.funho.com; adult/child$6/free) h h 10.30am-4pm Sat&Sun) dinner Tue-Sun)

( %

06-759 9917;325NgatimaruRd,Tikorangi; ( %

( h (45 Rata St) (45 Rata % 06-756 8252;www.whiteeaglemotel

9am-5pm Sun-Wed,9am-lateThu- ( 06-756 7287; 32 Matai St;mains 06-756 7287;32Matai % isahippizzeriaandfish h p 06-756 6665; 1 Kelly St;snacks 06-756 6665;1Kelly , by appointment) , which takes youon

Northern TaranakiNorthern or apintof beer. Its ispretty much your ) Fun Ho!ToyMuseum Taranaki Aviation,Taranaki

(Tatatm; % . Watch 06-752 253 ,

TARANAKI TARANAKI TARANAKI ward turn-offs to high sand dunesandsurf sand ward turn-offs tohigh the area Taranaki between andPihangabe- tion, hidinghisface behindacloud of tears. position. He remains here inmajestic isola- inthewesthiscurrentand finallysettled scar intheearth(nowWhanganui River) keep thepeace),Taranaki gouged outa wide indisgrace; others to fled south(somesay say Taupo andthelover of MtTongariro. As he with Pihanga,thebeautifulvolcano near Lake to departratherhurriedlywhenhewas caught of hewasforced theNorthIsland.However, longed toatribeof inthemiddle volcanoes According toMaori legend, Taranaki be- History of anyvisitto and thehighlight the region. isanabsoluteyou off –thismountain beauty is overdue foranothergo. Butdon’tletthatput thatthemountain the top1400m),expertssay lava350 years flowscovering ago(youcansee faultline.the same Withthelasteruptionover and Pouakaiare theothers –which along stand the youngest of three large –Kaitake volcanoes who catch Taranaki hiseye. Geologically, is the landscape, Mt Taranaki isamagnettoall A classic 2518m volcanicconedominating (EGMONT NATIONAL PARK) MT TARANAKI in sister collapsed sadly a heap). somewhat forlornlyoffthecoast(theirother quietly dramatic,withthetwosisters standing south of theTongaporutuBridge. Thebeach is stopping atthe (Taranakimountains and Ruapehu). superbviewsof thecoastlineand affords On cleardaysthefive- walk toseven-hour beach (check thetides–gowhenit’slow). Tongaporutu River viaatunnelfromthe From here the drops which resemble theirDover namesake. turn-off toPukearuhe and Alittlefurtheronisthe to drinkoff-duty). tours, (forthedriver andtakeaways tastings award-winning beers. Thebrewery provides beer.co.nz; RdNth; Main Brewery Organic Cliffs of NorthTaranakiably thehighlight – summer. in beaches. 254 If you’re continuinguptoMokau,it’sworth Continuing northonSH3are varioussea- It is said thatMaoriIt issaid didnotheavily settle About 5kmpastUrenui you’llfindargu- AAAI • tTRNK Emn ainl ak TARANAKI ••MtTARANAKI (EgmontNational Park) Urenui , 16km past Waitara, ispopular , 16kmpastWaitara, Whitecliffs Walkway Whitecliffs Three Sisters Three h ( % 10am-6pm) 06-752 3676;www.organic , signposted just Whitecliffs –homeof leadstothe , huge White White t town. to came the locals,especiallywhenTomCruise production of near-hysteria which caused in wahr updates. weather tain. Sun) 0248; www.doc.govt.nz; Rd29; café. displays, avideopresentation andasmall 4pm May-Sep) 0990; www.doc.govt.nz; from the mation about thenationalparkisavailable The mostcurrent andcomprehensive infor- as MtFujiin starredstuck like, Themountain well,egg. thenameEgmontits name,although has ond-oldest. MtTaranaki reclaimed eventually Park wascreated in1900,makingitNZ’ssec- at thatparticularmoment.Egmont National toflatter Egmont, hesought tain after theEarl chiefs andasahide-outintimes of danger. supremely sacred, bothasaburialsite for was Urenui itself Themountain andWaitara. MokauandPatea,tween concentrated around inthisdistrictlinedthecoastbe- settlements ers eruption.Instead, inaspectacular Maori theyfearedcause thereunification of thelov- should not beattempted by inexperienced hours sixto eight route return, taking and fromNorthEgmont.also starts It’sapoled recommended basicwalks.The and Track Park with is pamphlets –agoodonetostart in DOC all thewalksmentionedhere canbefound Egmont, DawsonFalls Egmont, and orEast i-SITE. or visitorcentreyour intentions withtheDOC cial theboxed (see lightly text, opposite ). It’s is dangerous andshould notbeundertaken trampingonthismountainNevertheless, inNZ.as the‘mostclimbed’mountain Due toitsaccessibility, Mt Taranaki ranks WALKING Activities Information From NorthEgmont, the Most walksare accessiblefromNorth Cookwhonamedthemoun- It wasCaptain isthesoutheastern sideof themoun- toget advicebefore departingandleave Connett Loop ($2.50). (onehour), Metphone Dawson Falls visitorcentre Short WalksinEgmont NationalShort North Egmont visitorcentre Egmont North where youalsofindinteractive The Last Samurai

( % (40minutes return) are all Veronica Loop h 0900 99906) 8am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, 8.30am- 8am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, h 8.30am-4.30pm Thu- lonelyplanet.com canalsogive (twohours) Ngatoro Loop

(2003),the Summit Track ( % (

% 027 443 06-756 cru-

alpineguides.com) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels the way up toStratfordPlateau. From here From Stratford you cantake Pembroke Rd all SKIING Top Guides Guides MacAlpine Dynamics Adventure include: operators around $300perdaytohire aguide. Reliable withlocalclubsand guides.Itcosts contacts for ing companions)cancheck withDOC rienced climbers lookingfortramp- (orthose to March whensnowfallsare low,butinexpe- You cantrampwithoutaguidefromFebruary Guides pretive leaflet available). following partof railway line(inter- adisused Road, northof Stratford,isafascinatingwalk ). right Sleeping, which in advance(see should bepurchased are anumberof hutsenroute, tickets for up atanyof thethree parkentrances.There takes three tofive daysandcanbepicked is snowed-in during winter. Fanthams Peak Return return) ortheexcellentbutchallenging walk isthesteep Lookout Egmont Potaema Track here. from alsostarts day looparoundthemountain, The people, especiallyinicyconditionsandsnow. hus return). hours walks including www.adventuredynamics.co.nz) The The 55km Egmont access on hasdisabled East At DawsonFalls short youcandoseveral visitor centre ori-SITE.Pick upthebrochure officer forcurrent conditions. You January toMarchisthebesttimego. anappropriate Youmust take mapandconsultaDOC in snowfallupataltitude. There are alsoprecipitous bluffs andsteep icyslopes. unexpectedly andalmostinaninstant. Youmayleave New Plymouthinsunshineandfindyourself conditionsThe principalhazardistheweather,whichcanchangefromsummerytowhite-out Mt Taranaki aneasyclimb,butthisscenicmountainhasclaimedmore maylooklike than60lives. DECEPTIVE MOUNTAIN information centres formore safety tips. Pouakai Circuit Pouakai There walks,safe are formuchoftheyear,butadventurous plentyofshort trampers York LoopTrack ( % (30minutes return) and 021 838513;www.topguides.co.nz) (30minutes return); alonger ( Around-the-Mountain Circuit Around-the-Mountain % Enchanted Track Enchanted Wilkies PoolsLoop Wilkies (12hours return), atwo- ( % (five hours return), which 027 4417042; www.mac , accessiblefromYork 027 2487858,06-7513589; TARANAKI ••MtTaranaki (EgmontNational Park) (twotothree (onehour must alsoregister yourtrampingintentions withtheDOC East Taranaki: The Mountain

wwsiaa naki.co.nz. www.skitara Stratford i-SITEhasdailyweatherandsnow Bunkhouse-style accommodationbehind Bunkhouse-style Rd; s/tw/d$30/52/60; porch. the Wars. Endlesshorizonviews fromLand settlers bylocalMaori during the Taranaki bullet holesinthewalls,fromshots fired at 1850 corrugated ironbuilding,complete with the NorthEgmont visitor centre in ahistoric out the back. the loft, andahandfulof comfy littlebaches bicycle fence. Dormaccommodationupin centric backpackers iseasilyspotted byits sites $10/12,dm/d$20/25; Rd,EgmontVillage;unpowered/powered1082 Junction you mustcarryout able nearthehuts(perperson $5).Remember: in thenationalpark.Limited pitches are avail- fer thehuts,campingispermitted youtouse wouldmuch pre- DOC Although first-served. bookings are notaccepted –it’sfirst-come, gear, and own cooking,eatingandsleeping tobringyour Youneed in advancefromDOC. Syme andKahui huttickets cost$5);purchase (although ing tracks.Mostcost$10pernight which arethe mountain accessiblebytramp- There hutsscattered are about manyDOC BUDGET Sleeping service reports; youcanringthe otherwise passadult/child$35/20) ski 06-765 6100;www.mountainhouse.co.nz; Pembroke Rd;daily from club skifield.Buyadailypassandhire gear it’s amere 1.5kmwalktothesmallManganui For more onskiinginthisarea, see p89 . Camphouse Missing Leg Missing Eco Inn Mountain HouseMotorLodge

( %

( % 06-759 1119)

06-752 2765; www.ecoinn.co.nz; 671 Kent 06-752 2765;www.ecoinn.co.nz; 671Kent ( ( % % fromDOCofficesorvisitor p 06-752 2570;[email protected]; 06-756 9093;dm/d$28/65; About 6.5km uptheroad ) justdowntheroad.The all orcheck thewebcamat p your rubbish. ) Thisexcellentlyec- ( %

0800 668682, snow phone p 255

)

TARANAKI TARANAKI TARANAKI areas. Meals are available inthe tea room. en suite roomsplusshared sittinganddining centre isthispeculiaryetinvitinglodge with return $45 to $50): gladly take you there (one way$30to$40, park butnumerous shuttle busoperators will Stratford. from Manaia Rdleads uptoDawsonFalls, 23km Plateau carpark).Fromthesoutheast,Upper House, p255 ; Manganui skiarea, p89 ; and the Egmont (plusMountainfor 15kmtoEast turn offatPembroke Rdandcontinue follow theroadfor14km.FromStratford, Village, 12kmsouthof NewPlymouth,and North Egmont: turnoff SH3atEgmont visitor centre. toNewPlymouthis Closest signposted andeitherpassbyorendataDOC Egmont NationalPark, allof which are well There are three mainentranceroadsto Getting There&Away luxury B&Broomsina bush setting. into Egmont NationalPark andtodayitoffers clinker-brick cottage wasoncethetollgate .co.nz; EgmontRd,RD6;d$245; from theupstairs sitting room. view withapostcardmountain comfortable, office. It’squite and quirkyinsidebutpleasant notfarfromtheDOC down themountain, Anderson’s Swiss-chalet stylelodge isfurther dersonsalpinelodge.co.nz; 922Pembroke Rd;r$165-215; s/d $140/200; 06-765 5457;www.dawson-falls.co.nz; Rd; UpperManaia available. hire chalets withkitchens. On-site restaurant; ski est totheManganui skiarea, hasroomsand andtheclos- (15km fromtheSH3turn-off) lodge, ontheStratfordsideof themountain .mountainhouse.co.nz; Pembroke Rd;rfrom$130; Mountain House MIDRANGE &TOPEND nexttoDawsonFallsright visitor centre. Konini Lodge the mountain is available. andtransporttofrom a spaandpooltable and runsonsolar,windhydropower. Has friendly placeismadefromrecycled timber Technology ( Museum p253 ), thissupereco- from theturn-off attheAviation, Transport& 256 Anderson’s AlpineLodge Dawson Falls MountainLodge accommodation isofferedBunkhouse at Rahiri Cottage Rahiri There are tothenational nopublicbuses AAAI • rudM aaai TARANAKI ••AroundMtTaranaki p

( % ) Right beside the DOC visitor visitor besidetheDOC Right ( % 027 4430248;adult/child$20/10;

( % 0800 668682,06-7656100;www 06-756-9093; www.mttaranaki

p ( % ) Thisenchanting 06-765 6620;www.an

( % 0800 695 6343, 0800 6956343, p This ) p p

) ) disarmingly retrodisarmingly coffee lounge. ina Fresh, filling food,cheap aschips, served rugs and accessories.Tours by arrangement. and manufacter of bags,boots, slippers, hats, hits withsomefairly wooden performances. clock dothchime outShakespeare’s greatest gallery.org.nz; Automobile Association Automobile times by arrangement. Plymouth atscheduledtimes;otherpick-up pointsand .com) Pick-up pointsandtimesby arrangement. Fri, 10am-3pmSat&Sun) Fri, .stratfordnz.co.nz; ProsperoPl; ( characters. ItalsoclaimsNZ’sfirst place, bynamingitsstreets after thebard’s Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare’s birth- on SH3, Stratford playsupitsnamesake of Forty kilometres southeastof NewPlymouth pop 9730 Stratford also knownastheSurfHighway ( opposite ). coast atHawera. Theotherroute istheSH45– the from NewPlymouthfor70kmuntilitmeets isthemosttravelledtain, route, headingsouth SH3,ontheinlandsideofmountain. themoun- There are aroundthe twoprincipal highways AROUND MTTARANAKI Taranaki Tours OutdoorsCentre Kiwi TaranakiExperience Eastern Cruise NZTours h ( 11km fromStratford, is ing abouthowhardlife is nowadays. tostopyoucomplain- little spooky,thisought buildings. Very bygoneeraandmore than a hectare housing 40historic outdoormuseum 5399; adult/child/family$10/5/20; tre onSH3,the meals $12-28; Pequena Casa cept forthetrapped-in-a-time-warptearoom, local art.Themainstreet isunremarkable ex- & Sun) Gallery Thomson available. New Plymouth)Pick-up pointsandtimestosuit;gear hire www.eastern-taranaki.co.nz) Departs from Departs www.eastern-taranaki.co.nz) Stratford. h % The townhasan Not farfromtheDawsonFalls turn-off, One kilometre southof Stratford towncen- 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat &Sun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am, 1pm,3pm&7pm) 06-764 6133;www.envirofur.co.nz; Rd; 1013Opunake , acommunitygallerythatshowseclectic h h (

% ( 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-3pm Sat 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, ( % 9am-late Tue-Sat, 9am-3pmSun&Mon). %

Taranaki PioneerVillage Taranaki ( 06-765 6680;280Broadway;snacks$3-5, % 0800 886877;www.taranakitours 06-758 3222) Departs New 06-758 3222)Departs ( 06-765 0917;www.percythomson i-SITE that also serves asthe thatalsoserves % and houses the andhouses . Fourtimesdailythis 06-758 4152; 18 Ariki St, 06-758 4152;18Ariki Environmental Products Environmental Products ( ( h % h % 10am-4pm) 0800 7656708;www lonelyplanet.com 8.30am-5pm Mon- 06-765 7482; a tannery atannery glockenspiel isafour- ( %

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(minimum four people). becue and bike hire. units andbackpackers’ bunks,plusspa,bar- park offering one-roomcabins,motel-style dm/sites/cabins/d $18/28/35/95; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels .eastern-taranaki.co.nz) .eastern-taranaki.co.nz) ered/cabin $10/20/35). has cabinsandacampsite (unpowered/pow- views of thesurroundingcountryside. Italso meals$5-20) 5858; www.kaietocafe.co.nz; hospitality’. country cluding dinnerandbreakfast), offering ‘real p meals$12-18; .whangamomonahotel.co.nz; old middle of grand townistheunmissable theboxedcouncils (see text, below ). Inthe ent republic after disagreements withlocal This quirkyvillage becameanindepend- visitorcentres in SITEs orDOC the area. A pamphletisavailableroute itself. from i- end asthere are alongthe nopetrolstations plenty of stops,andfillupwithpetrolateither longgone. Allowfourhoursals tothose and villages), abandoned coalminesandmemori- and heritage sites such asMaori manyhistoric road, andalongthewaypasses hilly bushcountrywith12kmof unsealed ThedriveWorld Highway. windsthrough (SH43) hasbecomeknownasthe Forgotten StratfordandTaumarunuiThe roadbetween The ForgottenWorldHighway p255. see For more accommodationaroundStratford, Stratford HolidayPark Eastern TaranakiExperience Eastern In theTahora Saddle, The townof world activities. apossumandengageinallmanner ofotherforgottena whip,betonthe sheepraces,skin ganza. Visitors (manyrailedinfromAuckland – required)passports canthrow agumboot,crack after anassassinationattempt). the Goat(elected after eatingalltheopposition’s votes) andTai thepoodle (whostepped down and becamearepublic, complete withdemocratically elected presidents whohave includedBilly meant they’dhave toplayforarivalrugbyteam. Andsoitwasthattheydumped bothcouncils citizens –independent,flintyfolk – were notprepared it thislyingdown.Forastarter totake fromTaranakiboundaries, shiftingitsjurisdiction counciltothatofManawatu–Wanganui.The ment authorities. The story goesthat,in1989,thelocalcouncilsoughttoadjusttown’s Whangamomona isNewZealand’s onlyrepublic, declared soafter adisagreement withgovern- POODLE FORPRESIDENT! ) , apubwithaccommodation($95in- Whangamomona Hotel The towncelebrates RepublicDayinJanuaryevery twoyears,witha military themedextrava- Whangamomona runs tours of thehighway

( % Kaieto Café Kaieto p

( 06-765 6440;10Page St; % ( % isatrimcaravan ) TARANAKI 45 Highway ••Surf 06-762 5823;www haspanoramic 06-765 7482;www is a highlight. isahighlight. pa h (

(fortified % 11am-late; 06-762 ad gallery. and .oakurabeach.com; 2JansTce; .oakurabeach.com; and alarge decktochill out on. this colonialcharmer hasacoffee machine A surfybackpackers tothebigbreaks, close .co.nz; SouthRds;dm/s/d$20/30/50; cnrAhu&Main and well-placedspotstopitch a tent. catering besttocaravans butwithbasiccabins $14/28, cabins$60; BeachHolidayPark Oakura SLEEPING &EATING ( an early20th-centurychurch, and 5pm) the mainroad. lessons. about board &suitperday$45) go to scorches feet). Forseashore andsurfgear, –thatblacksand family fun(take sandals breaks,its right-hander butisalsogreat for beautiful beach isrenowned towaxheadsfor southwest onSH45,islaid-back Oakura. Its The first stopfromNewPlymouth,15km pop 1218 Oakura random tractors and Holden drivers. for farmlandsobereadythrough toswerve whole way.Thedrive generally justundulates wavesdon’t expecttosee crashingashore the have manygoodbeaches dotted alongit, the indeed itdoes Surf Hwyandalthough Hawera, the105km-longSH45isknownas southfromNewPlymouthtoSweeping SURF HIGHWAY45 % Wave Haven Haven Wave There are acoupleof goodcraftshops on 06-752 1001; sells loadsof sells Kiwi-madeloveliness in Vertigo

( % h ( % Crafty Fox Crafty p 06-752 7363; [email protected]; 06-752 7363;[email protected]; 10am-4pm) 06-752 7800;www.thewavehaven ) Aclassicbeachside park onthemainroad.Ask

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) TARANAKI TARANAKI TARANAKI bakery bakingdaily.Lotsof healthyoptions, lunch $7-10,dinner$15-22; up oncheddar andotherspecialities. Just h office isthe and plenty of challenging waves further out. ’naki, Opunake hasasheltered familybeach A summertownand thesurfieepicentre of the pop 1500 stretch of highway. boxed text, opposite ) leadsinlandfromthis here in1881.Theroadto thatwas shiftedturesque cast-ironlighthouse leads 20kmto bar. public s $80; the 130-year-old life, includingblackswans.Onthehighway River attractsitsfairshare of interesting bird Komene Beach ers. Newbieswillprefer thegentler waves of low reef break, forexperiencedsurf- suitable after Warea is over for As youpassTataraimaka, considerpulling detours beaches alongtheway. topleasant SurfHwy45veersFrom Oakura, inland, with Oakura toOpunake speciality. a as wellpastry,withyummypumpkinbread 7227; snacks$3-10; for its home-made pies. lunches. hybrid good valuetraditionalMalay dinners and hind theCraftyFox, thisisagreat stopfor in avery slowmoving railwaycarriage be- stars here.stay ally designedvillasare stunning.Even rock luxury,architectur-the bigwideocean,these onaknolloverlookingbut pretty amazing.Set .co.nz; 321AhuRd;s/d/f$210/230/320; kind. its walk tothebeach – a top-notch exampleof back fromthemainroad,justthree minutes motel set A very andquietseven-unit pleasant [email protected]; 53WairauRd;s/d/f$85/105/145; 258 Opunake On themainroadis HolidayPark Beach theOakura Below Ahu BeachVillas BeachMotel Oakura Another coastwardturn-off at Malaysian Carriage Malaysian 9am-8pm) p AAAI • ufHgwy4 TARANAKI 45 Highway ••Surf ) has pleasant rooms and a straight-up roomsandastraight-up haspleasant Okato Cheeses Okato famouswell-beyond thebeach , which at themouthof Stony Terrace Takeaway h Cape Egmont Lighthouse Egmont Cape Stent Road Stent Stony River Hotel Hotel Stony River breakfast &lunchMon-Sat)

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% ( Snickerdoodles % ( 06-752 1007; Main SouthRd; 06-752 1007;Main h lunch &dinner) 06-752 7680;oakurabeach , alegendary shal- 06-752 7370;www.ahu 9am-5pm) Parihaka Parihaka ( % ( % pi 06-752 1190; tostock Pungarehu 06-752 4253; ( Housed Housed %

(see the the (see Pricey, , atiny , apic- ) 06-752 p

) is at on right the beachfront. Public Library&Cultural Centre. snacks $4-10,meals$12-28; Sat) Sts; s/d/f$25/50/75) pass it by. cious, fillingthingsandterrific coffee. Don’t INFORMATION New Plymouthand90km from Wanganui. Not quite onthecoast,itlies70kmsouthof Hawera isthelargest towninSouthTaranaki. pop 8740 Hawera sites/cabins/cottages $27/40/65; 06-761 7525;www.holidayparks.co.nz/opunake; BeachRd; types. sociable and Viola’slaid-back padwillsuitsurfers and bank buildinginthemiddleof town.John comfy andatriumphin genuine retro. the lodge ontheedge of fieldsis thesleepy tages/units d$85-$100; 36HeaphyRd;lodges/d$20/50,cot- [email protected]; Rd; stdc.govt.nz; Main www.tawhitimuseum.co.nz; 401 OhangaiRd;adult/child $10/2; man’s Maybe.Cadillac. King’s records (over 5000),souvenirs andthe pointment only) .co.nz/elvis; 51ArgyleSt;admissionbydonation; Room Record Memorial to the mountain. town, alongthecoastand,onagood day,up a rare bird’s-eyeviewof thearea –aroundthe South Taranaki being ratherflat,thisaffords the i-SITEduringopeninghours), butwith it aninvigoratingclimb(get thekey from ally oneof Hawera’s Notonlyis highlights. austere tohearthattherather You maybesurprised SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Sat & Sun) St; .nz; 55High Hawera i-SITE .co.nz; 121 Princes St) Association Automobile The bestfoodalongthewholeSurfHwy Elvis lives. At least he does atthe Elvis lives. Atleasthedoes BeachHolidayPark Opunake &Backpackers Motel Opunake The Surf Lodge45 Surf The excellent which isbuzzyandbrimmingwithdeli- Sugar Juice Café Sugar JuiceCafé Opunake i-SITE Opunake water tower water , which houses acollectionof, which houses the h ( % 8.30am-5.15pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm 8.30am-5.15pm Mon-Fri, isthemural-covered former ( % 06-278 8599;[email protected] Tawhiti Museum h p 06-761 8345;cnrTasman &Napier

beside thei-SITEisactu- 9am-4pm) ( ( offers arange of options–

) % % h ( ( % % 06-761 7062;42Tasman St; 0274 982942;www.digitalus lunch Tue-Sun, dinnerWed- p 06-278 5095;www.aa 06-761 8663;opunakel@ isintheEgmont ) isamellowspot

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% 0800 758009, 06-761 8330; 06-278 6837; Elvis Presley Elvis Presley h by ap- Turuturu Rd,are theremains of thepre- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels pits. The reserve isopen tothe pits. The reserve public daily. left are afew remains of rampartsandstorage ward offpotential attackers. Today,allthat’s to ‘stakes for driedheads’,which were to used European in Rotorua(see p329 for details). tours runrainorshine. Kaitiaki alsoruntrips prophet Tohu Kakahi. Allgear isprovided and past anhistoric (Grade IItoIII).Alsoincludedis a journey keen), thensledgingafurther5km ontheriver a 7mdamonsledge (more thanonceifyou’re on theWaingongoroRiver involve slidingdown ( is white-water sledgingwith curiously sand, enough. and nearby the cornerof Tawhiti Rd,4km from town. age totheprovince’s ruralheritage. It’snear while alarge collectionof tractors payshom- were modelled onpeoplearoundtheregion, dioramas. Thecreepily lifelike humanfigures lection of remarkable exhibits,modelsand 10am-4pmJun-Aug) Sep-Dec, h % Two kilometres northof Hawera, on The mostexcitingadventure aroundHawera Ohawe Beach of eachmonth.Formore information,read DickScott’s festival heldearlyeachyear.music-and-arts Parihaka isopentothepublicon18thand19th affected bytheinvasionandconfiscationofParihaka lands. of Parihaka protesters withouttrialalsocontinueduntilthelate 1890s. Parihaka wasrebuilt andtheploughingcampaignscontinuedinto1890s. The imprisonment later demolished.Te WhitiandTohuwere arrested andimprisoneduntil1883.Intheirabsence over 1500troopstoParihaka. Itsinhabitantswere arrested ordriven away,andthe village was protests continuedandintensified. Finally, inNovember 1881thegovernment sentaforceof pegs.and pullingsurvey Manywere arrested andheldwithouttrialontheSouthIsland,but humour, obstructed development byploughingtroughs acrossroads,erecting randomfences armed followersofTe Whiti,wearingthemovement’s iconicwhite feather intheirhairandgood resisting European settlementthroughnon-violent methods. Taranaki Maori,andunderTe Whiti’sleadershipanewapproachtothisissuewasdeveloped: both Taranaki andTe Ati Awadescent. but Maorifromaroundthecountry.Itsleaders,Te were of andTohuKakahi, Whiti-o-Rongomai the centre ofapeacefulresistance movement, onewhichinvolved not onlyotherTaranaki tribes, From themid-1860sParihaka, asmallMaorisettlementeastoffHwy45nearPungarehu, became PARIHAKA Te Hohaia’sbeautiful Miringa 10am-4pm lateDec-Jan, Feb-May 10am-4pmFri-Mon & 06-752 8242; www.damdrop.com; 3-hr trip $100) 06-752 8242;www.damdrop.com;3-hrtrip Te Whiti’sspiritlives onatParihaka, withannualmeetingsofhisdescendantsandapublic In 2006theNZgovernment issuedaformalapologyandfinancialcompensationtothetribes confiscatedWhen thegovernment landontheWaimate surveying plainin1879,un- started After theLandWars(see p36 ), confiscationoftriballandswasthecentralproblemfacedby Turuturumokai Pa Turuturumokai Black Beach makes forexcellentswimming pa site, birthplaceof theMaori houses aprivate col- houses isknownforitsblack . The name translates . Thenametranslates Kaitiaki Adventures Kaitiaki TARANAKI 45 Highway ••Surf Parihaka ofPassive –The Art Resistance . Trips . Trips

$65; 46ArarataRd;sites/dm$16/28,d&tw www.mttaranaki.co.nz; ing is a classic, with its smooth wooden floors ing isaclassic,withitssmoothwooden floors On theshores of Rotorangi, thislodge Lake Rotorangi;dcabins/chalets$75/160; 505a Aorere Rd, Lake Rd for5.5km.Pick-ups by arrangement. Tawhiti andkeep going ontheArarata Museum letting youmilkhiscows.Toget there headpast showing youhis specialpigsand and affable, fittings.HostGary iskind and no-nonsense round of golfatthe local club. anda laundry, dailynewspaper,gympasses and lotsof nicefreebies of such astheuse the motel, centrallylocated withplentyof parking 215 SouthRd;s/d$85/95) Avon Motel SLEEPING &EATING side the Patea River. Reserve public domain.Thisroadpasses picnicking; andMangamingi, where there’s a Tangahoe (alargely road), lovely unsealed for from which youcanvisitthedamandcamp; northofthree Road, accessroadsin:Ball Patea – longest artificiallake inNZ(46km).There are Caniwi Lodge Caniwi o p Northeast of Hawera is Ask That Mountain ) Set inaruralidyll,thisheritage build- Set , which has freedom campingalong- Wheatly DownsFarmstay

( % (

% 06-278 7144;www.avonmotel.co.nz; , orseewww.parihaka.com. 06-764 7577;www.caniwilodge.co.nz; Aspick’n’span13-unit , Gregory O’Brienand Lake Rotorangi, Rotorangi, Lake

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) TARANAKI TARANAKI TARANAKI the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake ( there. from intoAorere15km, turningright Rd.It’s5km Rd)for King EdwardSt(soonRawhitiroa with thefarmanimals.FromElthamfollow clude kayaking,bird-watching orhangingout chalets. Back-to-nature activitiestoenjoyin- caters forallwithitsbasiccabinsandluxury 260 % For a light biteFor alight andgoodcoffee goto 06-278 9134; 227 High St;lunches$4-10; 06-278 9134;227High AAAI • ufHgwy4 TARANAKI 45 Highway ••Surf h lunch). Arabica

19; 91 Princess St; 19; 91Princess surroundings. Takeaways available. perfectly Indianfare acceptable inrelaxing try finesse, suit all,especiallymeat-eaters. Forabitof not remotely Themassive rough. menuwill bar andrestaurant popularwithregulars and St;meals$16-30; 7333; 79Regent For heartymeals,try Indian Zaika Indian Zaika h lunch Mon-Fri, dinnerMon-Sun) lunch Mon-Fri, ( Rough Habits % h 06-278 3198;meals$16- 11am-late) lonelyplanet.com ( , asports % 06-278 for lonelyplanet.com

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