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TARANAKI to Seeandplacesvisit–Aslongyou’Re Aslaidbackthelocals © Lonely Planet Publications 244 lonelyplanet.com TARANAKI •• New Plymouth 245 Climate Getting There & Around Mt Taranaki is one of NZ’s wettest spots, Air New Zealand has domestic flights and Taranaki and frequently cops snowfalls. The moisture- onward connections to/from New Plymouth. laden winds coming in from the Tasman Sea InterCity runs several bus services connecting are the climatic culprits as they are swept to New Plymouth; Dalroy Express and White up to freezing heights by the mountain. Star are smaller companies on local routes. Weather on the mountain can be extremely Getting to Mt Taranaki is easy, as many changeable (see the boxed text, p255 ) and shuttle services ( p256 ) run between the Halfway between Auckland and Wellington, Taranaki sits out on a limb in more ways than snow is common even in summer. Ironically, mountain, New Plymouth and other one. Somewhat off the main drag, the region relies upon the fat of the land and the natural New Plymouth frequently tops the list of surrounding towns. riches offshore. Indeed, Taranaki is the Texas of New Zealand, with oil and gas streaming in most sunshine hours in the North Island, emphasising the changeability of weather from the rigs, plumping the region with an affluence and stability that’s the envy of many – NEW PLYMOUTH in the region. pop 49,100 if only they knew. It’s not only overseas visitors who miss the turn-off to Taranaki; lots of November to April are the region’s warmer Dominated by Mt Taranaki and surrounded Kiwi travellers do, too. months when temperatures hover around by lush farmland, New Plymouth acts as the 20°C. From May to August, the temperatures west coast’s only international deep-water This is remarkable when you consider what it is that puts the region on the map: the drop to around 5°C to 14°C. port, handling cargo for much of this part moody and magnetic volcanic cone of Mt Taranaki, standing smack-bang in the middle of 0 20 km Egmont National Park. It demands to be visited. TARANAKI 0 12 miles White Cliffs Ahiti In the shadow of the mountain are many small towns, mostly sleepy and rural, but Okau Pukearuhe 40 To Three friendly to boot. On the eastern boundary of the province you’ll find NZ’s only republic – 3 Sisters (8km); Waitomo Caves T A S M A N North Taranaki Bight Uruti (117km) Whangamomona – a bushy little settlement, stranded in paradise. White Cliffs S E A Organic Brewery Airport Waitara Motonui Onaero New Plymouth is the bustling hub of the ‘naki (as they call it), home to the fabulous Bell Waitara Lake Rotomanu Block Urenui Brixton SuperShed Govett-Brewster Art Gallery and an excellent provincial museum. It also has enough decent Port Taranaki Fitzroy 3 Okoki Beach Sugar Loaf Islands Huirangi espresso to keep you wide awake: you may or may not need it, depending on how long Marine Park Paritutu New Plymouth Hill (154m) Tupare 3A River Stream you’re staying and how resourceful you are. Huatoki Lake Hurworth 3 Oakura Mangamahoe To Taumarunui (82km); Egmont Waitui Mt Ruapehu (147km) Lucy's Gully Egmont National Taranaki Taranaki has a glut of black-sand beaches, and the summer months see the region swell as Village Inglewood Komene Tataraimaka Park Aviation, Manganui Matau Whangamomona Kaimata a wave of surfers and holidaymakers hit the coast. As for the rest of the year, there’s plenty Beach ὈKaitake Range Transport & Okato Technology Museum Kaimiro Hwy to see and places to visit – as long as you’re as laid back as the locals. Warea Pukeiti Forgotten 43 45 Rhododendron River Stony RiverTrust Tariki World Cape Egmont Te Wara Lighthouse 3 Huiakama Cape Pungarehu WaiwhakaihoNorth River HIGHLIGHTS Egmont Mt Taranaki Egmont Midhurst Strathmore Parihaka (Mt Egmont) Wharehuia Makahu (2518m) East Egmont Rahotu Pembroke Dawson Falls Douglas Tututawa Walking up or around the massive cone of Dawson Stratford Puniwhakau Surf ὈὈὈEgmont Falls Mt Taranaki ( p254 ) National Park Sugar Loaf Islands Govett-Brewster River Cardiff Marine Park Art Gallery Oaonui Mahoe Taking a trip on Chaddy’s lifeboat for some Republic of Hwy Ngaere Whangamomona Waiaua Rowan Omoana seal-spotting in the Sugar Loaf Islands Mangatoki Mangamingi Aviation, Transport Te Kiri Riverlea Kaponga Marine Park ( p248 ) & Technology Museum Awatuna Eltham Rukumoana Stream Moeroa Opunake Whenuakura River Highway Lake Tripping down memory lane at the Aviation, Rotokare World Auroa Mt Taranaki Forgo tten Kapuni Transport & Technology Museum ( p253 ) ὈὈKapuni Surf Pihama RiverᝲᝲLake Waingongoro River Rotorangi Riding the big breaks along Surf Highway Highway Oeo Tarere 45 ( p257 ) Otakeho Manaia 45 Tangahoe State Forest 45 Turuturumokai Pa Rimunui Finding the Forgotten World Highway State Forest Ohawe Hawera Beach & TARANAKI ( p257 ) and crossing the border into the Mokoiaᝲᝲ Black Beach Hurleyville Republic of Whangamomona ( p257 ) T A S M A N S E A Manutahi Alton Getting experimental at New Plymouth’s South Taranaki Bight 3 Govett-Brewster Art Gallery ( p247 ) Patea River TARANAKI TARANAKI Kakarameaᝲᝲ Whenuakura To Wanganui (41km) TELEPHONE CODE: 06 www.windwand.co.nz www.newplymouthnz.com Patea Waverley 246 TARANAKI •• New Plymouth lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com TARANAKI •• New Plymouth 247 of the North Island. The city has a thriving small-town convoy of boy-racers – who get to Cook Strait region to escape Waikato tribes, arts scene and an outdoorsy focus, with good cruise the longest main street in the country. who eventually took hold of the area in 1832. TARANAKI FACTS beaches both in and around it and Egmont Only a small group remained, at Okoki Pa Eat Anything at Sugar Juice Café (see p258 ) National Park just a short drive away. The History (New Plymouth), where whalers soon joined Drink A bottle of Mike’s Mild Ale from White Cliffs town centre supports a heartening number of Local Maori iwi (tribes) have long contested the fray. When European settlers arrived in Organic Brewery ( p254 ) locally owned businesses, and the obligatory Taranaki lands. In the 1820s they fled to the 1841 the coast of Taranaki seemed deserted Read The Captive Wife by Fiona Kidman, the and there was little opposition to land claims. fictionalised account of Betty Guard’s largely 0 400 m The New Zealand Company bought extensive satisfactory captivity amongst Taranaki Maori in the NEW PLYMOUTH 0 0.2 miles tracts from the remaining Maori. whaling days of the 1830s ACB D When other members of local tribes re- Listen to Way, way too much Bryan Adams, Shania To Sugar Loaf Islands Marine Park (3km) Octavius Pl turned after years of exile, they fiercely ob- Twain and Fleetwood Mac on the local radio station Kawaroa 10 T A S M A N Buller St Park Woolcombe Tce jected to the land sale. Their claims were S E A To DOC Office (1km); East End Watch The Last Samurai, starring Tom Cruise Reserve & Beach (1.3km); upheld when Governor Fitzroy ruled that ὈὈ1 To Belt Road Holiday Park (300m); Te Henui Walkway (1.3km); (although Mt Taranaki was the real star) Happy Chaddy's Charters (300m); Beach Street Surf Shop (1.8km); Lee Breakwater (300m); the New Zealand Company was only allowed Swim at Oakura Beach ( p257 ) – fantastic if you Coastal Walkway Fitzroy Beach (2.3km); Fitzroy Pole (2.3km); Seafood on the Beach (300m) Rent-a-Dent (2.3km); New Plymouth just over 10 sq km of the 250 sq km it had Weymouth St Molesworth St Top 10 Holiday Park (2.8km); don’t mind fine black sand in your crannies and Hine St 14 25 St Aubyn St Airport (10.3km); Waitara (15.3km) claimed around New Plymouth. The Crown Eliot St third degree burns on your feet Egmont St 28 Monument 2 13 gradually acquired more land from Maori, Queen St 16 Festival WOMAD (World of Music Arts and Dance) St Aubyn St Gill St 34 45 49 20 17 40 41 Young St Ariki St 4 and European settlers became increasingly every March at Brooklands Bowl ( p249 ) To Taranaki Thermal 48 26 37 Currie St 33 21 7 5 Devon St East Spa (700m); Ngamotu 39 6 42 greedy for the fertile land around Waitara. Beach (1km); Paritutu 5km) King St 46 43 Tackiest tourist attraction The ‘Welcome to 19 9 47 38 The settlers forced the government to Coronation Ave the Bread Capital of New Zealand’ sign outside of Courtenay St 36 11 Mt Edgecumbe St 44 31 abandon negotiations with Maori, and war Manaia on Surf Highway 45 29 Cameron St 2 32 Devon St West erupted in 1860. While Maori engaged in guer- 1 Leach St 30 Go green Environmental Products ( p256 ) – every Liardet St 24 Carrington Powderham St Gover St 27 rilla warfare and held the rest of the province, 35 possum product purchased equals one less varmint Brougham St 23 Lemon St Robe St 18 the settlers seized Waitara. Taranaki chiefs To Back chomping beautiful native bush Beach (4km); 3 3 St had refused to sign the Treaty of Waitangi ὈOakura (15km) Vivian St ὈὈ Pendarves St in 1840 and were brutally treated as rebels. Fulford St Dawson St Gilbert St By 1870 over 500 hectares of their land had Phoenix Urgent Doctors (%06-759 4295; 95 Vivian Bulteel St 12 been confiscated with the remainder acquired St; h8.30am-8.30pm) Fillis St Churchhill To BK's Egmont Motor through dubious transactions. Heights Huatoki Valley Lodge (1km); Tupare (7km); Morely St Marsland 15 Egmont Village (13km); In a time of relative peace, economic sta- MONEY Walkway Hill Pukekura 22 Stratford (43km); Hawera (70km); 3 Park Wanganui (160km) bility was largely founded on dairy farming.
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