The Bracing Tartness of Lemons Is
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Top Ten Lemon Desserts he bracing tartness of lemons is the cure for spring fever, satisfy- ing a craving for bright flavors before true spring produce T appears. Our collection of favorite lemon desserts from past issues of Fine Cooking includes cakes, pud- dings, sorbet, and souffle. Any one of them will brighten up your day. Lemon Pots de Crème Serves eight. A base of pure cream gives these baked custards a decadent texture. Finely grated zest of 4 lemons, plus 3⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice 3⁄4 cup granulated sugar 31⁄2 cups heavy cream 1⁄2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped and pod reserved (or 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract) 10 large egg yolks Candied lemon zest or candied flowers, for garnish (optional) Put a large pot of water on to boil for the water bath. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Put eight 6-oz. ramekins in a large roasting pan or baking dish with high sides. Make the lemon syrup and heat the cream: In a small saucepan, combine the 1 lemon zest, juice, and ⁄4 cup of the sugar. Simmer until reduced to 1⁄2 cup, about an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 4 minutes. early—until the custards are set about 15 minutes; set aside. In a medium saucepan, Stir in the reserved syrup and strain immedi- 1⁄4 inch in from the sides, the centers respond combine the cream, 1⁄4 cup of the sugar, and ately through cheesecloth or a fine sieve. If with a firm jiggle (not a wavelike motion) the vanilla seeds and pod (if you’re using you’re using vanilla extract, stir it in now. when you nudge the ramekins, and the cen- vanilla extract, don’t add it yet) and bring to ters of the custards register 150° to 155°F just below boiling. Remove from the heat. Bake the custards: Divide the mixture on an instant-read thermometer (the hole left among the ramekins in the roasting pan. by the thermometer will close up as the cus- Make the lemon cream: In a medium bowl, Pull out the oven shelf, put the roasting pan tards firm). Let the custards cool to room beat the egg yolks with the remaining 1⁄4 cup on it (be sure it’s stable), and pour enough temperature in their water bath. Remove the sugar until smooth. Gently whisk a ladleful of boiling water into the pan so that it comes custards from the bath, cover them with the hot cream into the yolks and then whisk halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover plastic, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours the yolk mixture into the saucepan with the the ramekins with a sheet of foil (simply lay and up to 2 days before serving. Garnish rest of the cream. Cook slowly, stirring con- the sheet on top, don’t crimp the edges) and with candied lemon zest or flowers, if you like. stantly, until the mixture reaches 170°F on bake for 25 to 45 minutes—start checking —Martin Courtman, Fine Cooking #56 Photos except where noted: Scott PhillipsScottnoted: where except Photos 1 www.finecooking.com © 2007 The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and/or distribution of this article is not permitted. Scrape the dough from the Make the filling: In a medium saucepan, bowl onto a sheet of plastic. heat the lemon juice, butter, and cream to Wrap well and press down to just under a boil; the butter should be melted. form a 1⁄2-inch-thick square. Remove from the heat. Refrigerate the dough until In a medium bowl, whisk by hand the it’s firm but still pliable, about sugar, eggs, and yolks until combined. Whisk 20 minutes. Heat the oven to in a bit of the hot liquid and then gradually 350°F. Have ready two sheets whisk in a bit more until it’s all added. This of parchment paper, each at technique, called tempering, heats the eggs least 11x11 inches. slowly and gently so they don’t curdle. When the dough is firm, Pour the mixture back into the saucepan unwrap it and put it between and heat on medium, stirring constantly the sheets of parchment. Roll with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom the dough to an approximate and sides of the pan to keep the eggs from Lemon Bars square, slightly larger than scrambling. Cook until the mixture coats the 1 Yields sixteen 11⁄2-inch bars. 8x8 inches and about ⁄4 inch thick. Remove spoon thickly enough to leave a line when the top sheet of parchment, trim the dough you draw your finger through, 5 to 8 minutes. Lining the baking pan with parchment with a dull knife to an 8x8-inch square, and Remove from the heat and strain through a makes it easier to remove the bars once set the dough, parchment side down, in an fine sieve. Stir in the salt and vanilla. they’re baked. If you don’t have parchment, 8x8-inch baking pan. Press the dough into To finish: Pour the filling over the baked refer to the online version of this recipe at the bottom of the pan, letting the excess crust and smooth it evenly with a spatula, if FineCooking.com, for instructions on parchment come up the sides (trim it to about needed. Bake until the filling has set and substituting waxed paper. 1 inch above the rim). The dough should be jiggles like firm jello, 15 to 20 minutes. Let FOR THE crUst: an even thickness all around, but it needn’t be cool to room temperature. Gently tug on the 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at room perfectly smooth. Bake until the shortbread parchment on all sides to loosen the bars temperature is light golden on top, 25 to 30 minutes; in a from the pan. Lift them out and onto a cutting 2 Tbs. granulated sugar glass pan, look for a golden brown color on board and refrigerate until the filling has com- 1 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar the bottom. Remove the pan from the oven, pletely set, at least 4 hours. Trim the sides for 1 ⁄2 tsp. pure vanilla extract but keep the heat set to 350°F as you make a cleaner look and cut into 16 squares. 1 1 2 ⁄4 oz. ( ⁄2 cup) all-purpose flour the filling. —Joanne Chang, Fine Cooking #49 21⁄2 oz. (2⁄3 cup) cake flour 1⁄4 tsp. baking powder 1⁄4 tsp. salt FOR THE filliNG: 1 cup fresh lemon juice (from 4 to 6 lemons) Lemon-Rosemary Sorbet 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into Yields 31⁄2 cups. 2 pieces 2 Tbs. heavy cream Both tangy and herbal, this sorbet is a 1 cup granulated sugar refreshing treat on warm summer evenings. 4 large eggs 11⁄2 cups granulated sugar 2 large egg yolks 11⁄2 cups water 1⁄4 tsp. salt 1⁄2 cup finely chopped fresh rosemary 1⁄4 tsp. pure vanilla extract 11⁄3 cups fresh lemon juice Make the crust: In a large bowl, cream 3 Tbs. vodka the butter and both sugars with a hand- In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water held mixer on medium speed (or mix by over high heat. Stir occasionally until the hand with a wooden spoon) until light and sugar is completely dissolved and the syrup fluffy, about 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla is simmering, about 5 minutes. Remove from until thoroughly combined, scraping down the heat. You should have about 2 cups syrup. the sides of the bowl. Combine the warm syrup with the rose- In a medium bowl, sift together both mary, lemon juice, and vodka. Stir well to flours, the baking powder, and the salt. With combine, and then let the mixture cool to the mixer on low speed, slowly blend the dry room temperature. For faster freezing, trans- ingredients into the wet ingredients, scraping fer the cooled mixture to the refrigerator to down the sides, until the flour is completely chill there first. blended and the dough is homogenous. Strain the mixture and then freeze it in an ice-cream maker, following the manufacturer’s instructions. —Daniel Deville, Fine Cooking #16 2 www.finecooking.com Bottom photo: Ellen Silverman 2 Tbs. lightly packed finely grated lemon zest Pinch table salt 1⁄2 cup fresh lemon juice 3 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature Lemon-Caramel Icebox Cake Whipped cream and candied violets for Serves twelve. garnish (optional) The caramel and the lemon curd can be In a medium saucepan off the heat, whisk made ahead and refrigerated for up to the milk, both sugars, and cornstarch until 5 days. The carmel needs to be warmed smooth. Whisk in the egg yolks, lemon zest, to a pourable consistency before using. and salt. Set over medium heat and cook, whisking frequently at first and constantly FOR THE LEMON CURD: toward the end, until thickened and the whisk 4 large eggs Silky Lemon Pudding leaves a very defined trail in the pudding, 4 large egg yolks (reserve the whites from Yields about 31⁄3 cups; serves four. 2 of the eggs for the meringue topping) 9 to 12 minutes. 3 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest (from about Taste the pudding while it’s still hot. If it’s too Remove the pan from the heat, add the 3 lemons) tart for you, whisk in a tablespoon or so of lemon juice and butter, and stir until incorpo- 1⁄2 cup granulated sugar granulated sugar, but remember that chilling rated.