Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides

Home , Achada do Teixeira, Arco da Calheta, Bolo de mel, Canhas, Espetada, Faial (Santana)

CHRISTOPHER CATLING

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL 2 Contents All 10 are,intheeditor’s opinion,ofroughly “first floor”isthefloorabove groundlevel. hierarchy isimplied. orpopularity of quality Left Cover: Library accordance withPortuguese usage;iethe publication may bereproduced,storedinaretrieval Every effortEvery hasbeenmadetoensurethatthisbookisasup-to-date aspossibleatthetimeof American Copyright Conventions. Nopartofthis Printed by andboundinItaly Graphicom permission ofthecopyright owner. Published in Within eachWithin Top 10 listinthisbook,no cannot accept responsibility forcannot acceptresponsibility any consequencesarisingfromtheuseofthis book,norfor Reproduced by Colourscan,Singapore any websites, materialonthirdparty andcannotguaranteethatany website addressinthis means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, book will be a suitable sourceoftravelbook willbeasuitable information. We value the views andsuggestionsof Dorling Kindersley Limited, London going to press. Some details, h going topress.Somedetails, All rights reserved underInternationalandPan-All rightsreserved recording or otherwise, withoutpriorwritten recording orotherwise, system, ortransmitted inany form orby any Floors arereferred tothroughoutin Great Britain byGreat Britain DorlingKindersley Limited Funchal Casino gallery hangingarrangements andtravelgallery information areliabletochange. The publishers Produced London by DPServices, Published by intheUnitedStates Reprinted withrevisions 2007 Corbis The information inthisDKEyewitness Top 10 T clb;H.P 07 080910 987654321 First American Edition,2005 our readers very highly.our readersvery Pleasewriteto:Publisher, DKEyewitness Travel Guides, New York,New York10014 ISBN 978-0-75660-905-4 Copyright 2005, 2007© A Penguin Company ISBN 0-75660-905-4 Ray Juno main; 375 HudsonStreet, DK Publishing,Inc., ISSN 1479-344X . Mertonbl.Back: equal merit. Dorling Kindersley, 80Strand,London, GreatBritain WC2R 0RL. Middle DK Images Corbis Flower sellersatFunchal market owever, such as as owever, such Jose Fuste Raga tc;NeilMiller/Papilio tl; Clive Streetertc;Linda Whitwam cla; iod rer 32 Pico do Arieiro ot 26 30 Curral dasFreiras Monte oPler erio 24 do Palheiro Ferreiro uca 12 10 das Museu daQuinta Funchal Adegas deSãoFrancisco, Funchal 8 Museu de Arte Sacra, Funchal Cathedral(Sé) Madeira’s Top10 Contents uca 18 Quinta 20 Jardim Botânico, Funchal Funchal Mercado dosLavradores, rzs uca 14 Cruzes, Funchal telephone numbers,openinghours,prices, ravel Guideischecked regularly. Robert Harding Picture DK Images Right Casksof Verdelho Madeira Linda Whitwam tr Contents 3 The beach, Porto Santo Porto beach, The Right Streetsmart Information Practical 102 Places to Stay 112 Around Madeira Around Funchal Central Madeira Madeira Western Eastern Madeira 74 80 Santo Porto 64 86 94 General Index General Index Phrase Book Acknowledgements 118 128 of Places Selected Index 127 124 Capela dos Milagres, Machico Machico Capela dos Milagres, Ponta de São Lourenço Ponta Right Middle 60 View from Bica de Cana from View Ribeira da Janela islets da Janela Ribeira Left Moments in HistoryMoments 36 Left Historic Buildings 42 Churches Churches 40 Museums Museums 38 Madeiran Wine Outlets 58 Specialist Shops 56 Festivals Festivals 54 Children’s Attractions Attractions Children’s 52 Levada Facts Facts Levada 50 Outdoor Activities Outdoor Activities 48 Beaches Beaches 46 Gardens 44 Restaurants

MADEIRA’S TOP 10

Madeira Highlights

6–7 MADEIRA’S TOP 10 Funchal Cathedral (Sé) 8–9 Museu de Arte Sacra, Funchal 10–11 Adegas de São Francisco, Funchal 12–13 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes, Funchal 14–17 Mercado dos Lavradores 18–19 Jardim Botânico, Funchal 20–23 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro 24–25 Monte 26–29 Curral das Freiras 30–31 Pico do Arieiro 32–33 Top 10 of Everything 36–61 Madeira Highlights Madeira is an island of astonishing contrasts. From the big-city sophistication of the capital, Funchal, it is a short step to the primeval woodland that cloaks the dramatic cliffs and canyons of the island’s interior. The fertility of Madeira’s ﬂower-ﬁlled gardens is in marked contrast to the aridity of the island’s volcanic peaks. And nothing could be more different than the gentle rippling of the levadas (canals), which carry water into Madeira’s deepest valleys, and the crash of the waves that dash the island’s rocky shores. Madeira has been called a place where all the continents meet. It has something of them all – including snow.

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&DER (5 6HL[DO 3 J C 3RQWDGR3DUJR F J S B /RPEDGLQKD E B 6¤R9LFHQWH + /RPEDGDGRV (5 B O 0DULQKHLURV F MB (5 5RV¢ULR )DM¤GD2YHOKD 5DSRVHLUD B (5 F S S 4 3D»OGR0DU E B M B Þ (VWUHLWRGD&DOKHWD 1 -DUGLPGR0DU /RPERGRV5HLV 6HUUDGH JXD Funchal ! 0XVHXGD4XLQWD &UNCHAL Cathedral (Sé) 6 58$ GDV&UX]HV -(68 '(- 8QLYHUVLW\ % 2 2 2 '(' $ $' (86 , Hewn out of the island’s 4XDUWHU 5 58 ' 7 8 $ 2 5 $ 8 1 , 1 $ $ &DUPR ( ' volcanic rock and its 0XVHXGH 8 ' '( 2 4XDUWHU 9 6¤R3HGUR 5 $UWH6DFUD 8$ ' 2 ,* ' ' 5 abundant timber $635(7 ( % $6 - $ 58 $ 5 2 $ $ 8 8 ' 8 $ 8 1 5 5 $ 2 5 supplies, Madeira’s ' 7 ( 5 $ & $ 5 5 ( , 5 $ 9 8 , 1 ( ( 5 ( % /$ 1,' % 2 6 =RQD - 8 5 cathedral is a monument $/ 2 5 $GHJDVGH 2 9HOKD 8 $ $ ' 6« ' $ 5 6¥R)UDQFLVFR 58 to the faith and piety of % $ = &DWKHGUDO 0HUFDGR & , $* $ 0 $ 55 5 &DWKHGUDO $ & $5 , ' GRV/DYUDGRUHV the island’s first settlers $ ( 1 2 4XDUWHU $ 9 (60$ 35$$'$ 6&2081,'$' '(,5(16(6 (see pp8–9). 5('$ $872120,$ 17( 20$ $ (' ,1) $9 '2 $9( ZBSET NFUSFT @ Museu de Arte Sacra, Funchal Trade contacts with $ Museu da Quinta Antwerp in the 15th das Cruzes, century enabled Funchal Madeira’s mer- Look inside a gracious chants to sell Madeiran mansion, built their sugar – on the site where the so valuable island’s first ruler, João that it was £ Adegas de São Gonçalves Zarco, had his known as Francisco, Funchal home (see pp14–17). “white gold” Madeira is renowned for – and buy the its wines, famous for their superb Flemish complexity and depth of paintings and flavour. At this historic sculptures wine lodge you can sam- that fill this ple different vintages and art museum learn to be a Madeira con- (see pp10–11). noisseur (see pp12–13).

6 Preceding pages View of Curral das Freiras, with Pride of Madeira flowers in foreground Jardim ^ Botânico, Funchal The Botanical Gardens are a showcase for all

the plants that thrive Madeira’s Top 10 in the island’s warm and humid climate, from jungle orchids to bristling cacti (see pp20–23). % Mercado dos Lavradores, Funchal The Farmers’ Market is a bustling medley of colourful stalls posi- tively bursting with exotic fruits, scented ﬂowers and examples of local crafts (see pp18–19).

3RQWD $UFRGH 'HOJDGD 6¤R-RUJH 6¤R-RUJH & Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro $FKDGDGD&UX] Two hundred years of cultivation %RDYHQWXUD 5LEHLUD have produced this magnificent all- )XQGD (5 6DQWDQD )DM¤GR seasons garden where the flowers of 3HQHGR )DLDO the world combine with the English flair for garden design (see pp24–5). 3RUWRGD&UX] &UX]LQKDV 6¤R5RTXH GR)DLDO 3LFRGR 1POUBEF $ULHLUR 5LEHLUD 4ÍP-PVSFOÎP &XUUDO 5LEHLUR)ULR 6HFD GDV)UHLUDV (5 &DQL¨DO (5 (5 6DQWR$QW´QLR 0DFKLFR (5 GD6HUUD -R¤R)HULQR 5RFK¤R (VWUHLWRGH &£PDUD 6DQWD&UX] GH/RERV 0RQWH &DPDFKD 6¤R5RTXH -DUGLP%RW¤QLFR (5 4XLQWDGR3DOKHLUR)HUUHLUR &DQL¨R &£PDUD 6¤R*RQ¨DOR GH/RERV )XQFKDO &DQL¨RGH%DL[R 6HHPDSOHIW NJMFT LN

* Monte Escape to a romantic ( Curral das Freiras world of gardens, tea- During pirate attacks, houses and cobbled walks, the nuns of Santa Clara home to Emperor Charles I took refuge in this hidden in exile. Afterwards, return green valley encircled by to the capital on the exhil- sheer cliffs – a place of arating Monte toboggan breathtaking scenic run (see pp26–7). beauty (see pp30–31). ) Pico do Arieiro Feel on top of the world as you view the ridges and ravines of the island’s mountainous interior from the summit of Madeira’s third highest peak (1,818 m; 5,965 ft) (see pp32–3).

7 8 Madeira’s Top 10 officially grantedcitystatus,itwasfinallycompletedinOctober1517. dral wasbegunin1493.ConsecratedSeptember1514,whenFunchal chants. DesignedbyPêroAnes,assistedmastermasonGilEnes,thecathe- geometry; andsetintheflooraretombsofearlybishopssugarmer- covered chapels;theceilingisofspectacularknotworkinspiredbyMoorish is veryplain.Bycontrast,theinteriorlinedwithstatues,paintingsandgold- Save foraflurryofpinnaclesattheeasternend,FunchalCathedral’sexterior Funchal Cathedral • 4–6pm daily • • • Free Open9am–12:15pm, MapP3 LargodaSé church litup. interior ofthe the normally dark will beableto see to aservice, you and 6pm). Ifyou go 8am, 9am, 11am, 5pm 6pm; Sundays at 8.30am, 11.15am and (weekdays at8am, during services are notencouraged building, andvisits functioning religious The cathedral isa by. go world simply watch the places to relax and centre, andgreat work inthecity people wholive and meeting placesfor Apolo) are popular Funchal andtheCafé the south(theCafé pavement cafés to Funchal. The the socialheart of The cathedral marks Funchal Cathedral(Sé) a reference to thebishop’s throne, the symbolof hisauthority. The Portuguese word forcathedralis Sé, which means “seat” (above) dral, anditishiscoatofarms way. The rosewindow above (1495–1521) helpedtofund the crownfromrust- iscarved the construction ofthecathe red localbasalt. The vestibule tothechurch @ ! ry tombslabsofblackry basalt. the visitofPope John Paul II is paved inworn, 16th-centu- A wall plaque on 12 May 1991. To theleft is themassive 16th-century font oftheGothicbaptistry. 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features Ceiling North Aisle Nave andSouth Aisle Narthex and Baptistry West Portal East End Altarpiece SeatingintheSanctuary Sanctuary South Transept Baptistry Narthex and King ManuelIofPortugal West Portal over theGothicdoor- (right) records - Here, floormemorialsto £ carved inmarbleandcarved bishops andmerchants basalt reflectthe16th- century Portuguesecentury style. Aisle Nave andSouth , Madeira’s Top 10 9 - alace at Sintra. South Transept Sunlight floods this cathedral. before work started work on before 1492, precisely one year precisely one year 1492, Andalusia in Spain until Moors also ruled over over Moors also ruled 711 to AD 1249, and the AD 1249, to 711 and lozenges, with pro- and lozenges, Moorish rule from AD from Moorish rule Funchal’s delirious and Funchal’s of knots dizzying pattern medieval Islam. Much Islam. Much medieval under was of Portugal Royal P rich geometric art of rich most elaborate of Portu- of the Chapel of the guese knotwork ceil- jections similar to sta- lactites, is based on the Knotwork Ceilings cathedral has Funchal and one of the richest splendour to the ceiling ings, comparable in ^ and fish-tailed mermen. billowing sail, centaurs sail, centaurs billowing depict Fortune holding a holding a depict Fortune everlasting knots forming knots forming everlasting arabesques and stars. figures around Faded the edge of the ceiling the edge of the ceiling through the transept windows to light up the tim to light up the dows ber ceiling with its ber ceiling with its - - - - - , or , or , style, which , style, which alfarge . It is one of the . It is one of the , where a carving of Seating in the Sanctuary Sanctuary nautical theme The Ceiling cypress native Madeira’s elaborate attire of pros elaborate attire prophets dressed in the prophets dressed in the Flemish sculptor, the the Flemish sculptor, bold blue-and-gold choir stalls depict saints and Olivier de Gand, a Olivier de Gand, a perous merchants. * by Carved in 1510–11 & % aisles and transepts aisles and transepts of the ceiling of the nave, of the ceiling of the nave, effect in the construction in the construction effect ceiling of the sanctuary ceiling of the sanctuary finest examples in Portu in finest examples an armillary sphere (a navi among the painted cher blends Moorish and Euro continues on the gilded trees were used to brilliant brilliant used to trees were gal of the “knotwork” pean elements. ubs and floral swags. (above) (right) gation aid) can be seen gation aid) can be seen -

Bring binoculars if you want to see the finer details of the ceiling Bring binoculars to see the finer details of the ceiling if you want Allow time for your eyes to adjust to the gloom. and altarpiece. was made in Lis- was

memorial set in the in the memorial set

East End Go outside to the east The huge altarpiece The Altarpiece Madeira’s trade links trade links Madeira’s North Aisle North

)

( $ wife Catarina. wife Oliveira Pestana and his his and Pestana Oliveira Christ and the Virgin. Christ and the century brass Flemish- depicts the fashionable depicts the fashionable de Brito Pedro merchant scenes from the lives of of scenes from the lives the spire, and for the bra the spire, and for ted in an unusual 16th- ted in an unusual first chapel. The brass brass The first chapel. Gothic frames are 12 Gothic frames are 12 sugar pinnacles and sugar pinnacles and pierced balustrades. end for the best view of of the best view end for with Antwerp are reflec- Antwerp with floor to the west of the of the floor to the west bon in the early 16th cen- bon in the early 16th (above) Set within its ornate tury. vado display of barley- display vado style Museu de Arte Sacra, Funchal Madeira is not the first place you would think to look for some of the finest Flemish masterpieces ever painted, but the 15th-century sugar trade between Funchal and Antwerp (in modern Belgium) provides the link. Merchants and plantation owners sought immortality by commissioning altarpieces for their local churches, often depicting themselves and their families kneeling in prayer. Thus the gorgeously colourful paintings gathered in this museum of religious art serve also as portraits of some of the island’s first settlers.

Top 10 Features 1 Entrance Hall 2 Processional Cross 3 St Sebastian 4 The Last Supper Tableau Madeira’s Top 10 5 St James by Dieric Bouts Entrance Hall 6 Deposition by Gerard David 7 Annunciation by Joost van The Renaissance loggia facing onto Cleve Praça do Município 8 St Philip and St James by has been converted van Aelst into the chic Café do 9 St Anne and St Joachim Museu. A great place 0 The Machico Adoration for a snack, lunch or early evening meal, ! Entrance Hall the café serves The importance of the salads, pasta dishes, bishop in local society is soups and light reflected in the elegance meals from 10am of his palace, which now to 7:30pm. houses the museum. Visitors enter through a • Rua do Bispo 21 handsome hall floored with • Map P3 pebbles forming swags £ St Sebastian • 291 228 900 and garlands. The Baroque This early 16th- • Open 10am–12:30pm, stone staircase, dating century painted 2:30–6pm Tue–Sat, from the 1750s, is flanked stone statue, 10am–1pm Sun by gilded candelabra. carved by Diogo • Admission €3 Pires, is full of @ Processional Cross holes that once This exquisite exam- held arrows. St ple of the silversmith’s art Sebastian, the was donated at the dedi- Roman martyr, cation of Funchal’s cathe- was condemned to dral in 1514 by King death for his faith. Manuel I of Portu- He miraculously gal (1495–1521). survived the arrows, Tier upon tier but was later beheaded. of Gothic niches are $ The Last Supper filled with tiny Tableau figures of saints, This almost life-size tableau as well as dra- in painted wood was carved matic scenes for the cathedral in 1648 by from the Pas- Manuel Pereira. Judas, who sion and Cruci- will betray Christ, sits alone fixion of Christ. clutching a money bag.

10 For works of religious art still in their original setting See pp40–41 Madeira’s Top 10 11 - - - -

- . The . The by by subjects. Adoration (below) Annunciation Cleve van Joost Deposition David Gerard the Machico the Machico Following the Mannerist Following tendency, the painter of was not the artist’s aim. not the artist’s was verbal description. In verbal likeness case, exact any character to his character the artist an accurate in order to give greater in order to give relied on a friend to give relied on a friend to give nose or a double chin – nose or a double chin Flemish Art Madeiran art patrons probably not have would portraits. Instead, they sent a sketch might have or masons) or perhaps emphasizes distinctive distinctive emphasizes – a large features facial visited Antwerp or their for to sit Bruges architects of the island’s (perhaps drawn by one by (perhaps drawn rest on an oriental car around 1515: Mary’s feet feet Mary’s around 1515: central panel of this trip central panel Maria (with St James). in this serene painting of in this serene painting of from the Cross in the in the from the Cross donors – Simon Acciaiuo donors – Simon of Siena), and his wife of Siena), and his wife jar. standing in a Delft expanding commercial commercial expanding connections can be seen sadness and resignation sadness and resignation taken down as her Son is side panels depict the the side panels depict li, a merchant from Flor from li, a merchant tych of 1518 Bernardino ence (with St pet, and the lilies sym bolizing her purity are & of Europe’s fruits The ^ shows face Virgin’s The depicts depicts by (see p87) The Machico The Machico Adoration St James St James Dieric Bouts Dieric naturalistic detail. naturalistic Flemish master Dieric Dieric Flemish master of colour and love Bouts’ stands are typical of meadow in which he he in which meadow saint’s gorgeous scarlet gorgeous scarlet saint’s ﬂower-ﬁlled cloak and the Machico Machico Bruges in the 1470s. The The in the 1470s. Bruges their servants. 1518 from the church at at from the church 1518 was probably painted in painted in probably was of the Three Kings, with Kings, with Three of the mous painting of around mous painting of around ) in detail, this anony- Rich % James of St study This Madeiran merchants and and Madeiran merchants in the guise landowners (right) (right) Isabel. , the donors, , the donors, by Pieter Pieter by and his wife and his wife (above)

St Anne and St Joachim St Philip and St James

Madeira in 1454. Simão Gonçalves de de Simão Gonçalves Câmara, grandson of Zarco, and his wife and became a farmer on on and became a farmer have been identiﬁed as been identiﬁed as have king gave up his crown up his crown king gave side of the central panel, side of the central panel, Ladislaw III of Poland III of Poland Ladislaw Senhorina Eanes. Known Senhorina Eanes. Known as Henry the German, the pictured kneeling on either pictured is reputed to show King King is reputed to show

(see p37)

( early fascinating This painting of 16th-century the Antwerp School

Here * Coecke van Aelst van Coecke Adegas de São Francisco, Funchal Plenty of places on Madeira offer wine tastings, but none will give you such a solid introduction to the history of its unique wine. With its heavy ancient beams and its cobblestone courtyards, the Adegas de São Francisco feels as old as time. It is set in the surviving parts of a 16th-century Franciscan friary, most of which was demolished when Portugal passed its laws banning religious orders in 1834. The premises were acquired by the Blandy family (see p25) in 1840 and have been used ever since for making Madeira wine.

Top 10 Features 1 Courtyard 2 17th-century Wine Press 3 Goatskins 4 Attics Madeira’s Top 10 5 Sampling Madeira wine at Wine Shop the Max Romer Tasting Bar 6 Wine Museum 7 To the west of the Max Romer Tasting Bar 8 wine lodge, there is Vintage Room an outdoor café in 9 Shopping Arcade the cloister of the 0 The “Oldest Street” São Francisco friary, now a delightful public garden.

You can wander in and out of the wine lodge whenever it is open. Wines may be sampled for free in the Max Romer £ Goatskins Tasting Bar without ! Courtyard Wine made all over the booking a tour. The romantic inner island was brought for sale courtyard of the wine lodge to Funchal. Porters called • Avenida Arriaga 28 is shaded by some of the borracheiros sipped from the • Map P3 island’s tallest banana 40-litre loads of wine that • 291 740 110 trees (above). It is ringed they carried in goatskins. • Open 9:30am–1pm, by three storeys of attics 2:30–6:30pm Mon–Fri, with wisteria-draped exter- $ Attics 10am–1pm Sat (Max nal balconies supported on Massive timbers support Romer Tasting Bar also massive timber brackets. three storeys of ventilated open for lunch) attics (below). Wines here • Admission free @ 17th-century are aged in casks warmed • Tours: 10:30am, Wine Press only by the sun, a method 2:30pm, 3:30pm, On the guided tour you known as “Canteiro” that 4:30pm Mon–Fri, will be shown a traditional produces quality wines. 11am Sat. €4 wine press carved • In-depth vintage tours: with the Jesuit 4:30pm Wed, Fri. €6 symbol of a cross within a triangle. The Jesuits ran the island’s wine trade until the late 18th century. English and Scottish merchants then took it over.

12 For more on Madeira wines See pp58–9 % Wine Shop ^ Wine Museum The rustic-styled shop Framed letters of has shelves fashioned appreciation from kings from old wine casks. On and queens, emperors, sale here is a large selec- presidents and prime

tion of wines by all the ministers – all of them Madeira’s Top 10 producers in the Madeira lovers of good Madeira Wine Company under the wine – line the walls of labels Blandy’s, Cossart the museum at the heart Gordan, Leacock’s and of the lodge. Also on dis- Miles. Spirits and Madei- play here are leather- ra cakes are also sold. bound ledgers recording every sale going as far back as the 18th century.

& Max Romer Tasting Bar The delightfully sunny murals of grape-growing and harvesting that cover the walls of the tasting bar on the ground ﬂoor were painted in 1922 by the German artist Max Romer (1878–1960).

* Vintage Room ) The “Oldest Madeira Wine Within the Vintage Street” Madeira wine has two Room, precious wines are The street that runs up defining characteristics. stored by date and kept the eastern side of the First, like sherry and locked behind bars. wine lodge dates from port, it is “fortified” by Madeira wines dating the 1400s, in the early the addition of brandy at back to 1908 (and costing days of Madeira’s settle- the end of the fermen- €698 a bottle) can be ment. Wine barrels were tation process. Second, sampled here. Those who once dragged across the it is heated during pro- cannot afford the above cobbles on a sledge going duction. The benefits of can try moderately priced, to and from the harbour. heating were discov- but nevertheless appeal- ered when wines left on board ship after a round trip to the equator were ( Shopping Arcade found to have devel- In a sign of the oped a new depth and times, the old cooper’s complexity of flavour. In yard was recently con- time, winemakers verted into a shopping worked out how to arcade. However, the recreate the effect by Madeira Wine Company maturing the wine in still employs coopers to lofts heated by the sun, patch and mend 100-year- without the need for a old barrels. The coopers sea journey. (See also use traditional methods, p59 on estufagem.) mixing new and old oak.

Madeira’s wine industry was nearly wiped out when the vines were 13 attacked by mildew in 1851, and by phylloxera (vine louse) in 1872. 14 Madeira’s Top 10 a visittotheConventodeSantaClara full ofantiquesandfineart.AnexcursiontotheQuintacanbecombinedwith century astheeleganthomeofLomelinofamily,andisnowamuseum a mansion.OriginallybuiltbyCaptainZarco that theycouldseepirateshipsapproaching.TheQuintadasCruzesisjustsuch Madeira’s earlysettlersbuilttheirhomesontheheightsaboveharbourso Cruzes Museu daQuintadas • 10am–1pm Sun 2–5:30pm Tue–Sat, • • • • Admission €2 Admission 10am–12:30pm, 291740 670 MapN2 CalçadadoPico1 take ataxi. you mightwant to there’s nobus–so the museum, and It’s asteep climbto in theticket office. look outfor posters Quinta dasCruzes; held intheMuseuda Concerts are often and climbingplants. ringed by flowers fountain, onaterrace Quinta. Siptea by a entrance to the opposite the worth avisit), Memórias (itself Universo de courtyard ofthe teahouse inthe There’s a delightful Museu daQuintadasCruzes,Funchal 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features 0 9 8 7 6 as anoutdoormuseumof are fine examples of a style are fineexamples ofastyle @ The gardenstothesouth ! The stonewindow frames ed in1486. Until 1835, prominent relicisthebase ancient masonry. One inspired by the of the Quinta of theQuinta set upinthegarden criminals were chained to of Funchal’s erect pillory, discovery madeduringthediscovery the pillory andwhipped. the pillory reign ofKingManuelI are carved withknottedare carved Portugal (1495–1521). They ships’ ropes, lionsanda porter carrying agoatskin porter carrying full ofwineonhishead. Anunciação Trade Goods Chapel Orchid Garden Manueline Windows Archaeological Park Silver Collection Sugar Box Furniture Palanquin Drawing Rooms Picnic Windows Manueline Park Archaeological by Tomás da (above) voyages of serve serve (right) - (see pp16–17)

den, wheretieruponof tree ﬂeshy limbsthroughthe tropical orchids are grown roof oftheshadehouseat for useascutﬂowers. the rear of the Quinta gar the rearofQuinta £ (see p36) A stately olddragon A stately Orchid Garden (see p21) thrusts its , itwasrebuiltinthe19th , ashortwalkaway. - Trade Goods % 7 Before you enter the main house, there’s an 6 exhibition of trade goods entrance $ Chapel from the 19th-century 5

The chapel contains Portuguese empire, Madeira’s Top 10 the tomb of Urbano Lom- including a silk bedspread 9 elino (above), an early embroidered with tropical 0 sugar merchant. His ﬂowers, an ivory carving descendants moved it of a Buddha-like baby here when they acquired Jesus, and an altar fron- 8 the estate in 1678. tal featuring tigers.

Key Ground Floor First Floor

^ Drawing Rooms Zarco’s original mansion was a busy working farm and administrative centre. The Lomelino family radically remodelled the house in the early 19th century, ﬁlling the well- proportioned drawing rooms with English Chippendale furniture and ﬁne paintings.

Captain Zarco: & Picnic by Tomás * Palanquin Lord of the Isles da Anunciação A palanquin, used in João Gonçalves (nick- Picnic (above), by the the 19th century to carry named Zarco – “Squint- founder of the Portuguese a wealthy lady around er” – after he lost an school of landscape art, Funchal, is displayed in the eye at the Battle of dates from 1865. The basement. Also here are Ceuta in 1415) planted family of the 2nd Count a series of English satirical the Portuguese flag on of Carvalhal is depicted on engravings poking fun at Porto Santo in 1419, and their Quinta do Palheiro Funchal’s well-fed priests on Madeira in 1420. In Ferreiro estate (see p24). and over-dressed officials. 1425 he returned with people, seeds and tools ( Sugar Box ) Silver Collection to live on Madeira. Zarco Furniture A rich collection of ruled the island’s south- Brazilian sugar put an end historic silver is on show western half, while his to the Madeiran in the basement. fellow captain, Tristão sugar trade. The Highlights include a Vaz, ruled the northeast mahogany boxes pair of silver-and- from Machico. Zarco’s used to transport ebony Mexican slave half proved to have the the sugar were figures (late 18th- better harbour, which turned into the century) and two became the island’s cap- robust chests silver-and-coral Brit- ital. He died in 1467, at (right) seen in ish baby’s rattles the ripe age of 80. the basement. (mid 18th-century).

15 16 Madeira’s Top 10 Mon–Sat, 10am–noon Sun• Admission €2 Open 10am–noon, 3–5pm • MapN2291742 602• Clara15Calçada deSanta script markstheburialplaceof gold ceramictiles. rare 17th-century blue,whiteand vent’s belltower, decoratedwith admire thecupolaofcon- day inprayer. From hereyou can where thenunscouldpass access tochapels andoratories to beadmitted. Ring thebellhere the convent gat ancient wooden doorsof stone roundelabove the on the17th-century of StFrancis arecarved £ @ ! Left Cloister Lower choir A gravestone withGothic Abbess’s G This peacefulspotprovided Cloister The armsoftheOrder Gateway Pico towards Funchal; theconvent willbe onyour right. Convento deSantaClara,Funchal From theQuinta dasCruzes

Middle d eway. rave

17th-century carpet tiles, SantaClara Church 8 Santa Clara Convent 4 5 7 6 3 0

(see pp14–15) 9 1 Santa ClarafromPortugalSanta in1497. the Franciscans), whocameto Clare nuns(thesisterorderto for ofPoor thefirstcommunity choir was theplaceofdailyprayer housing astatue ofthe Virgin. This knotwork ceilingandgildedaltar floor ofthislongroom,withits contact withtheoutside world.contact say mass. The nunshadnoother the nunscouldhear thepriest sweet singing ofthenuns,and the congregationcouldhear the easternwall ofthelower choir, visited theconvent. Franciscan orderwheneither bishop andtheheadof forreserved theuseof heads. The paintedthronewas cherubs andamusinganimal from 1736, withwinged carved wooden choir-stall chairs dating $ ^ % 2 Green Moorishtilescover the Upper Choir Through theirongrillesetin Grille The lower choir islinedwith Lower Choir the convent’s firstabbess, graves each day. would walk acrosstheir , take the Calçadado, take corridor wherenuns Isabel deNoronha,and chose tobeburiedina was Zarco–

(whose grandfather her sister, Constança. Right high-born ladies As asignoftheir humility, thesehumility, Upperchoir see p36 ) Madeira’s Top 10 17 ) lies ) lies see pp14, 36 see pp14, Church of the church public part The Monuments of the church, At the back ( ) is covered in decorative 17th- in decorative is covered century of great carpet tiles magnificent silver The intricacy. tabernacle on the altar dates from 1671. resting the stone sarcophagus the lions marks on crouching son-in-law, of Zarco’s grave Vasconcelos Martim Mendes de Zarco himself (who (d.1493). – died in 1467 altar, buried in front of the high but his tomb slab is hidden floor. beneath a modern wood . It . It Santa Clara Convent is surrounded by high walls, built Santa Clara Convent is surrounded to shield the nuns from prying eyes, and to keep them focused on their religious duties without the dis- tractions of the outside world. In the past, the only part of the convent open to the public was the church, with its magnificent silver tabernacle, dating from 1671, and its marble-and-gold altar. Because of its beauty and serenity, Santa Clara Church is a very popular choice for weddings. Santa Clara Church High altar with silver tabernacle, Santa Clara Church Santa Clara tabernacle, High altar with silver (see p15)

religious orders last nun dies 1890: founded school 1927: stalls carved choir 1736: artists paint church 1797: bans Portugal 1834: founded convent 1476: completed church 1493: in nuns move 1497: nuns ﬂee pirates 1566: tabernacle unveiled 1671: The large painting of the cru- large painting The Calvary Zarco Monument Zarco at the box A cofﬁn-shaped

0 9 7 8 4 5 6 2 3 1 Top 10 Dates in Santa Clara’s History The minaret-like bell bell minaret-like The reﬂects the cultural tower inﬂuence of Moorish where the tiles Seville, decorating the onion- made. shaped dome were

* & cified Christ at the west end of end of cified Christ at the west served to remind choir the lower the nuns that their hardships as nothing compared with were more poign- Even his sufferings. ant is the realistic 17th-century laid in of Christ statue wooden his tomb. as if in the altar below, eastern end of the lower choir is is choir of the lower eastern end the monument that a replica of in the main church once stood grave Zarco’s over was moved in 1762 because because in 1762 moved was it. tripping over priests kept Bell Tower 18 Madeira’s Top 10 such effortsincreatingtheircolourfuldisplays? could resistbuyingfreshfruit,flowersorherbsfromstallholderswhomake most ofthesupermarketsthatarespringingupalloverMadeira–andwho sell theirwares.Thepriceschargedherearecheaperthanthosefoundin from allovertheisland,whocomecountrybybustoshopand market; itisoneofthesocialhubsMadeira,ameetingplaceforpeople The bustlingandcolourfulMercadodosLavradoresismorethanjusta Mercado dosLavradores Wickerwork, groundfloor, • Free 7am–3pm Sat Mon–Thu, 7am–8pmFri, • Open7am–5pm • MapP4 • Rua Profetas in themorning. Visit thefishmarket of themarket hall. around theoutside the-wall barsfound head for thehole-in- For atastymorsel, Mercado dosLavradores,Funchal 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features (above) To therightofentrance @ the Swan stallholders intraditional stallholders canvas awnings and and isnow inthetown porch, atilepicture shows costume. The fountainin hall courtyard the market asit was atthe the picture, toppedby a turn ofthe 20thcentury marble statue of al Madeiranarchitecture. ours echo thegrey and designed in1937 by rust-red basaltoftradition 1983). Though builtfrom Edmundo Tavares(1892– modern materials,itscol ! Ground Floor Flower Sellers Tile Pictures Leda andtheSwan The Market Hall Butchers andBars Fish Market Herbalist Fruit and Veg Cobbler the Swan Leda and This Art Deco hall washall Deco This Art The Market Hall , with stalls under , withstalls , has survived , hassurvived (see p42) Leda and . - - plants, liliesandflamingo cal orchids, bird-of-paradise still wear traditionalclothes. the entranceporch. The work flowers These areascolourfuland of artistJoão Rodrigues and eye-catching astheirtropi made in1940, they depict stallholders andthecoatofstallholders arms ofFunchal (featuring five sugarconesinacross). $ £ Today’s flower sellers Flower Sellers More tilepictures adorn Tile Pictures (below) . - Madeira’s Top 10 19 - -

(Brazilian . The stall of stallThe of . pitanga (left) Cobbler as bargain well As Veg and Fruit Upstairs is the shaped chance to taste lantern- chance centuries. Now is your is your Now centuries. grown on the island for on the island for grown favour of flavoursome of flavoursome favour been that have varieties Ignore shiny imported Ignore shiny apples and tomatoes in cherries), sugar cane, cherries), pears, loquats, prickly custard apples, guava, passion fruit, pawpaw, pomegranate and quince The Fruits of Madeira market, In Funchal’s the commonplace even surprise: by can take you taste. will ever you your finger, are the best finger, your – all grown locally. – all grown the tiny honey-scented honey-scented the tiny bananas, no bigger than ^ & Abreu As you negotiate the nar you As stylish natural leather leather stylish natural e Barros sandals from smelling local produce. smelling local produce. hard-wearing – Madeiran- hard-wearing style ankle boots and the hope that you will will the hope that you also buy handmade – and handmade – and also buy vegetable sellers, packed with colourful and sweet- the entrance. the entrance. free slice of mango, free slice of mango, in pass, tomarillo as you this cobbler is located located this cobbler is leather bags, you can can bags, you leather and domain of the fruit on the right-hand side of side of on the right-hand prised to be offered a a prised to be offered row aisles, don’t be sur aisles, don’t row or blood-red passion fruit linger and buy. linger and buy. Butchers Butchers and Bars sweet custardsweet pastries. dishes of garlic-flavoured dishes of garlic-flavoured beans, salty or olives wall bars, where bars, where wall shoppers and market little on snack workers the hall are hole-in-the- Ringing the perimeter of Ringing the perimeter of reached from streets from streets reached hall. around the market are in a separate area are in a separate area dried meat and sausages, dried meat and sausages, ) shops, butchers’ The and selling fresh, cooked - - - tapes, fado

, in the base- ﬁsh. ﬁsh.

(right) Fish Market stalls are a If the fruit Herbalist On the ﬁrst ﬂoor near In the arcades sur- In the arcades Ground Floor Ground

(

* % from upturned crates. from upturned herbs and seasonal fruits fruits herbs and seasonal labelled. There are bunch There labelled. sell bread, bunches of of sell bread, bunches Eden, the noisy ﬁsh mar dried herbs, all carefully dried herbs, all carefully wickerwork, wickerwork, the country for the day the country the day for taste of the Garden of devoted to fresh and to fresh and devoted eucalyptus sweets to to sweets eucalyptus soothe a cold. for leather bags and bags and leather for cake. Farmers up from up from Farmers cake. the stairs, one stall is es of feverfew for head for es of feverfew ket ket ment, looks like ment, looks like a scene from hell, with its knife-wielding stallholders in blood-stained aprons, hacking and into tuna aches, and fennel and and and fennel aches, espada rounding the central the central rounding can shop courtyard you Madeira wine and honey and honey Madeira wine Jardim Botânico, Funchal As well as being a place where avid plant lovers can learn all about the astonishing range of plants that thrive in Madeira’s warm and humid climate, this is also a great spot just to relax and enjoy the visual richness of the immaculately maintained ﬂower beds. The gardens occupy the grounds of an estate that once belonged to the Reid family (founders of the world-renowned Reid’s Palace Hotel) and, with a practised eye for a good building site, they chose to build their mansion on a sunny slope blessed with panoramic views.

Top 10 Features 1 Natural History Museum 2 Native Plants 3 Valley View 4 Cacti and Succulents Madeira’s Top 10 5 The outdoor café in the Carpet Bedding Jardim Botânico 6 Economic Plants 7 Medicinal Plants There is a café in the 8 grounds set around a Topiary Garden series of pretty lotus- 9 Seaside Plants and lily-ﬁlled ponds. 0 Parrot Park

Children will enjoy Natural History looking out for the ! Museum frogs that live below The Quinta do Bom the pondweed. Sucesso (“Mansion of Good Fortune”) (below), Some of the best built in the late 19th views are to be had century by the Reid family from the “Lovers’ (see pp37, 112), was Cave” at the topmost bought by the Madeiran point of the garden. government in 1952. It was opened in 1960 as the £ Valley View Entry to the Jardim Natural History Museum. The western edge of Botânico also the garden (furthest from includes admission the entrance) has views to the Jardim dos over the green, canyon-like Loiros, or Parrot Park João Gomes Valley (below). Though crossed by a road (see p53). Orchid fans bridge, this is an important shouldn’t miss the wildlife corridor. Huge, Jardim Orquídea (see ancient and gnarled parasol p56), a short, if steep, pines, with twisted branch- walk away. @ Native Plants es and scaly bark, cling to So many plants have the rocks alongside the • Quinta do Bom been introduced to the miradouro (viewing point) Sucesso, Caminho island that it is useful to that overlooks the valley. do Meio be reminded of • Map H5 native species. • 291 211 200 Those growing in • Open 9am–5:30pm beds alongside the daily museum (above) • Admission €3 include bold and colourful Madeiran geraniums and giant golden buttercups.

20 The Botanical Gardens are 3 km (2 miles) northeast of Funchal, on the route of town buses 30 and 31. 3 2 1 5 4 7 6 8 Madeira’s Top 10 9 $ Cacti and Succulents This part of the garden is popular with 0 children for its Wild West look (above) and for the many spiders that use the thorns of the cacti as supports for their intricate webs. Jardim Botânico % Carpet Bedding The purple, red, green, yellow, white and gold diamonds, lozenges and circles of this much- photographed part of the garden (left) demonstrate the richness and variety of colour to be found just in the leaves of plants. ^ Economic Plants If you cannot tell a mango tree from an avocado, this is the place to learn. The plants grown here are used for food, ﬁbre, oil or dye. Among them are several whose names we know but may never have seen – such as coffee, cocoa, sugar cane, cotton and papaya.

Dragon Trees & Medicinal Plants ( Seaside Plants Staff carry out Though not the most If ever a plant looked like research using the plants colourful or spectacular its name, the dragon grown in this section to varieties, Madeira’s many tree (Dracaena draco) is ﬁnd herbal remedies for coastal plants must be it. The ﬂeshlike branches maladies from headaches admired for their tenacity. have scaly grey bark that to rheumatism. Most of them manage to looks and feels reptilian, grow on rocky cliffs or while the leaves are like sandy shores, with mini- claws or talons. When mal fresh water and a cut, the tree “bleeds” a regular soaking in brine. vivid red sap which sets to form a resinous gum ) Parrot Park known as Dragon’s The closer you get to Blood, once highly prized the southern part of the as a dye (it turns cloth * Topiary Garden garden, the less you will purple). Long before This knot garden be able to Portugal colonized (above) is made of avoid the Madeira, sailors came clipped box, and squawks of here to harvest the sap planted with shrubs the rare and of these strange trees, that can be cut into exotic birds which still grow wild in spirals, pyramids, that are Madeira, the Canary chess pieces and housed in the Islands and Cape Verde. animal shapes. Parrot Park (left).

Some of the best views are to be had from the “Lovers’ Cave” 21 at the topmost point of the garden. 22 Madeira’s Top 10 like flowers of purest white. sweet-smelling clustersofbell- a stunner, hungallover with but from August toOctoberitis twelve andnoteven noticeit, Portuguese) ninemonthsoutof (Clethra arborea maderense) known ascranesbill the airport. island’s around roadsides,notably flowers areshy, itadornsthe December toMarch) whenother exactly thetimeofyear (from powder-blue flower spikes at abundance oflong-lasting symbol. Bloomingwithan candicans) veined flowers. magenta feathery leaves andlargepurple- because ofitsshrubby stature, lar gardenplantallover Europe £ @ ! Left Madeiran juniper Madeiran geranium You couldpass thisshrub Lily-of-the-valley Tree Pride ofMadeira Pride ofMadeira The Madeirangeranium,also Madeiran Geranium Plants onMadeira isalmosttheisland’s , hasbecomeapopu- , or folhado (Geranium (Echium Middle in Pride ofMadeira grows abundantlyinthewild. aromatic evergreen leaves and good anywhere. handsomeplantthatlooksvery (Ranunculus cortusifolia This shrubby tall buttercup are treesratherthanshrubs. grow 4m(12 ft) andheaths tall, turn intogiants.Here,Poinsettias seems toencourageplants fencing andwindbreaks. branches areusedlocallyfor hundred years. Tree heath probably lived for several Museum History heath trunk inMadeira’s Natural prodigious size; acarbonized tree arborea) Madeira’s treeheaths similar pinkbell-like flowers, or the scentedbay dish, ingredient inMadeira’s national Calheta Calheta (see p16) (see p9) ceilings ofFunchal Cathedral readily seenintheknotwork has arich patinathatcanbe wood oftheMadeiranjuniper (cedar) inPortuguese, thedark % $ & ^ loureiro Madeira’s subtropicalclimate Giant Buttercups Related toheather, andwith Tree Heath Confusingly called Madeiran Juniper The essentialflavouring Scented Bay espetada Right , Santa ClaraConvent, Santa cangrow toaquite (see p82) andthechurch in inPortuguese). Ithas Giantbuttercups (beefkebabs), is (Laurus azorica (seep20) . (Erica cedro ) isa

, Madeira’s Top 10 23 vin- desig- wood), , the , the (laurel laurisilva the past. UNESCO (Persea indica) (Persea

Madeiran Mahogany Madeiran full museums are Madeira’s were shipped to Portugal and and Portugal shipped to were the ships shipbuilding; for Spain Armada were of the Spanish from this wood. largely built ) of ﬁne furniture made from of ﬁne furniture hático mahogany-like wood that grows that grows wood mahogany-like in the to a great height and girth and costly So valuable woods. century sugar in the 15th was shipped to Europe in that it was made of this wood. chests See p65 in in til nated a large area of the island’s natural forest as a nated a large area of the island’s natural forest as protected World Heritage Site in December 1999. The primeval woodland that cloaks much of Madeira’s The primeval woodland that cloaks of the scented mountainous interior is the remnant of southern Europe laurel forest that covered much until the last Ice Age (which ended around 10,000 years ago). Only on Madeira, the Canaries, the Azores and in tropical west Africa was the climate warm enough for these subtropical trees and shrubs to survive. Known in Portuguese as they are a precious link with Madeira: World Madeira: World Heritage Site (in (in ) is one of ) is one of , or barbusano For more Madeiran flowersFor Ocotea foetens (House leek)

Foxglove violet Dog Fleabane Downy thistle Downy thistle sow Shrubby plant Ice Bilberry Viper’s bugloss Viper’s plant Saucer Navelwort The Portuguese took a heavy took a heavy Portuguese The Stink Laurel Ironwood barbujana Apollonius

0 7 8 9 5 6 3 4 2 1 Top 10 Wild Plants to Spot on a Walk Primeval woodland Primeval

( * Portuguese) after they arrived on on arrived they after Portuguese) trunks Felled the island in 1420. toll of the huge and ancient laurel laurel toll of the huge and ancient trees ( Portuguese, Portuguese, of Madeira’s the main constituents billow- Its forest. evergreen native fresh lime-green ing clouds of with the deep contrast leaves growth. years’ green of previous Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro The unmistakably English character of the Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro was stamped on the estate by its ﬁrst owner, the wealthy Count of Carvalhal, whose love of English landscapes led him to include woodland and grassy meadows when the estate was laid out in 1804. Bought by John Blandy, an English wine merchant, in 1885, the Quinta has remained in the same family ever since, greatly enriched by the plants that Mildred Blandy imported from China, Japan and her native South Africa.

Top 10 Features 1 The Long Avenue 2 Stream Garden 3 The Sunken Garden 4 The Chapel

Madeira’s Top 10 5 Pink flowers and leaves of Long Borders the cymbidium orchid 6 The Terrace 7 The Old House The newly built Tea 8 House, serving deli- Lady’s Garden cious home-made 9 Hell Valley cakes, stands at the 0 Camellia Walk lower end of the garden, bordering an The Long Avenue area of the estate ! Plane trees and giant which is now run as a camellias, many planted golf course (see p48). 200 years ago, line the avenue. The crimson, pink Visitors should note and white flowers are at that the house is their best from November closed to the public. to April, before the white arum lilies and pretty blue • Caminho da Quinta do agapanthus take over. Palheiro 32, São Gonçalo £ The Sunken Garden • Map H5 Water lilies fill the little • 291 793 044 pool at the centre of this • 9am–4pm Mon–Fri pretty garden (above). Tall • Admission €8 cypresses mark its corners; (children €4) topiary shapes flank its four sets of stone steps. In the borders, gazanias mix with beetroot-red house leeks. $ The Chapel The striking Baroque chapel has Venetian-style windows and a plasterwork ceiling depicting Christ @ Stream Garden being baptized in the River The stream you cross Jordan by John the Baptist. to enter the garden is fed by a spring. Lined by azal- eas, rhododendrons and scarlet tritonias, and crossed by ornamental bridges, it attracts bathing robins and blackbirds.

24 The Quinta is 8 km (5 miles) from the centre of Funchal, on the route of town bus 37. 1 0 % Long Borders Typically English herbaceous border plants, such as delphiniums and day lilies, are mixed with 9

tender and exotic orchids, Madeira’s Top 10 and angel’s trumpets 32 (daturas). Climbing roses 4 5 and jasmine are draped 6 over arches so that you 7 catch the heady scent 8 as you pass. Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro ^ The Terrace Paved with tiny sea- worn pebbles, the terrace offers a good view of the house (no admission) that John Blandy built in 1885, successfully blending English and Madeiran architectural styles. & The Old House Now a luxurious hotel (see p113), the Casa Velha was originally a hunting lodge. Arch- duchess Leopoldina of Austria stayed here on her way to marry Pedro I of Brazil in 1817.

The Blandy Family ( Hell Valley Despite its name, The ﬁrst John Blandy this valley is a delightful (1783–1855) arrived in tangle of bamboo, tree 1807 as quartermaster ferns, native woodland in General Beresford’s and creepers, with an army, which had been understorey of beautiful posted to Madeira to acanthus plants. defend the island against attack from Napoleon. * Lady’s Garden ) Camellia Walk Blandy returned in 1811, The Jardim da Look out for the and made his fortune Senhora (above) has stone circle called Avista supplying the ships that topiary nesting birds and Navios (“Place for View- called at Funchal’s busy vintage trees, including a ing Ships”), where there port. His eldest son, grand old Madeiran til is a clear view all the way Charles Ridpath, bought tree (see p23), two down to the harbour. up all existing stocks of Canary pines and a wine on the island weeping Saphora when mildew caused japonica, whose grape harvests to fail in corkscrew limbs and 1852. This bold move delicate leaves enabled the family to cascade to the dominate the wine ground to form a trade from then on. natural green veil.

The name Palheiro Ferreiro literally means “blacksmith’s hut”. 25 Perhaps long ago a blacksmith chose this spot for his forge. Monte Like the hill stations of colonial India, Monte (literally, “Mount”) developed in the late 18th century as a genteel and healthy retreat from the heat, smells, noise and commercial activity of the capital. Funchal’s suburbs now spread their tentacles all the way up to Monte, but there is still a sense of escaping from the city and entering a world set apart. The cool, clear air is ﬁlled with birdsong. Few cars intrude onto the cobbled streets, and lush gardens are everywhere – lushest of all, the extraordinary Monte Palace Tropical Garden (see pp28–9).

Top 10 Features 1 Toboggan Run 2 Railway Terminus 3 Church Steps 4 Nossa Senhora do Monte

Madeira’s Top 10 5 The Monte cable car Quinta do Monte 6 Cable Car Station You can get to Monte 7 Capela da Coneição from Funchal by taxi, 8 Fountain Square or by buses 20 or 21. 9 The most exhilarat- Quinta Jardins do Imperador 0 ing way, however, is Parque do Monte to go up by cable car (from the station in Funchal’s Old Town) and return by the traditional Monte toboggan … or you can descend on foot; the Caminho do Monte is a steep but direct road into Funchal, passing through some attrac- ! Toboggan Run tive older suburbs of Madeira’s toboggans the city. To get onto are steered by smartly it, just follow the dressed carreiros (toboggan drivers) in straw toboggan run. boaters on the 2-km (1-mile) trip from Monte • Map H5 to Livra-mento. • Nossa Senhora do Monte Church. 291 783 @ Railway Terminus 877. Open 9am–6pm Now a café, this build- £ Church Steps Mon–Sat, 8am–1pm ing situated 550 m (1,804 On the Feast of the Sun. Free ft) above sea level was a Assumption (15 August), • Quinta Jardins do funicular railway station pilgrims climb on their Imperador. Camhino do until 1943. knees up the steep steps to Pico. 291 780 460. Monte’s church to pay 9:30am–5:30pm homage to the statue Mon–Sat. Admission (to of the Virgin, which garden only) €6 (children they believe was €3; under 12s free) presented by the Virgin • Toboggan run. Dawn herself when she to dusk. Fare €10 per appeared to a person plus tips shepherd girl in the 15th century.

26 The entrance to Monte Palace Tropical Garden lies to the south of Nossa Senhora do Monte, near the start point for the toboggan run. Madeira’s Top 10 27 -

. In its . In its , the , the (left) Quinta do Quinta Monte niche housing a housing a niche giant plane trees, giant plane trees, main Monte’s square is beautiful back wall is a is a wall back rounded cobbles. rounded cobbles. square is The the named after of marble fonte 1897 ly paved with sea- with ly paved garden is the garden is the Baroque chapel of of chapel Baroque the Quinta do beautiful terraced beautiful terraced to grounds, open the public during daylight hours. At At hours. daylight the heart of the % converted Recently into a fine hotel (see p113) Quin- 19th-century ta sits in do Monte Fountain Square Fountain Set in a natural Monte’s church. Monte’s pilgrims now regularly pilgrims now visit his tomb in decision to beatify him, April 1922. Following Following April 1922. II’s Paul John Pope pneumonia and died in island in November island in November he succumbed to 1921, happiness was short- happiness was on the arriving lived: holidays spent here. His holidays his fond memories of his fond of Madeira because of choosing the tiny island the tiny choosing War I, he fled into exile, I, he fled into exile, War Austria’s defeat in World World in defeat Austria’s When it collapsed with empire stretching from empire stretching to Budapest. Vienna Emperor Charles I (1887–1922) an of ruler Charles I was * one in the church. Monte – a copy of the of the Monte – a copy statue of the Virgin of of Virgin of the statue amphitheatre shaded by amphitheatre shaded by pretty garden gazebo, garden gazebo, pretty servingnow teas. Monte, and below is a is a Monte, and below - -

(viewing point) point) (viewing Parque do Monte Parque public park was This Quinta Jardins do Quinta Jardins Imperador Capela da Coneição Cable Car Station sleek cable car’s The The romantic knot gar The former glory. former beautiful mansion where beautiful mansion where in exile. Charles I lived being restored to their being restored to their right going downhill right going downhill is the Funchal) toward end of the village, near a end of the village, near a Gomes Valley. dens and lake are slowly are slowly dens and lake ) Just south of Monte (first south of Monte (first Just ( & 18th- pretty The century Chapel of Conception stands in a tree-shaded square at the eastern miradouro the João over with views ^ see examples of of see examples protected many species of native trees and flowers. now draped in climbing draped in climbing now Gomes Valley, you can can you Valley, Gomes hydrangeas, tree ferns tree ferns hydrangeas, and massed agapanthus. the stone railway viaduct viaduct the stone railway route up the wild João route up the wild João arches into a valley full of full of into a valley arches laid out in 1894 beneath beneath laid out in 1894 steel-and-glass terminus steel-and-glass terminus is the only modern build Monstera deliciosa ing in Monte. Along its Along its ing in Monte. plants. Cobbled paths plants. Cobbled paths thread in and out of the -

Nossa Senhora Senhora Nossa do Monte

Charles I of Austria. Charles I of the tomb of Emperor the tomb of Emperor Eve). The church houses houses church The Eve). along with his twin sister, twinalong with his sister, be born on Madeira – – be born on Madeira inaugurated in 1818, 1818, inaugurated in replacing a 15th-century Fer Adam built by chapel

reira (the first person to person to reira (the first $ of Monte was Our Lady 28 Madeira’s Top 10 within Portugal in1976. 1147, toMadeiranautonomy took LisbonfromtheMoorsin reign of Afonso Henriques,who Portuguese fromthe history, main avenue depictscenesfrom was built. (Europe’s largestartificiallake) when thehuge Alqueva Dam from the Alentejo inPortugal of 40ancientolive treesrescued they arepartofagroup BC by theRomans, ably plantedin300 as theirheight.Prob- den isatleastasgreat the entrancetogar- trees growing justinside the threeancientolive by theirgirth;thegirthof @ ! Left Painted tilesnearSwan Lake

Nativity The 40tilepanelsliningthe Tile Pictures Ancient treescanbedated Ancient Olives Monte PalaceTropicalGarden , detail Middle 3 Swan Lake Tropical Garden Monte Palace 5 Right 6 8 4 exhilarating rideintheworld” Hemingway as “the most description by thewriterErnest can onceagainlive uptoits original cobblessothattheride There areplanstorestorethe toboggans travel atany speed. trees fromMexico. the aptly-named elephant’s foot tom ofthegarden,you willfind furniture carpets. andoriental parasols One advertises Japanese-style demolished buildingsinLisbon. with Art Decotilesrescuedfrom toes. The walls aredecorated as fountainsandfern-filled grot- swans anddocilecarp,aswell small lake enlivened by ducks, oglyphs astheworld’s tallest. rated withancientEgyptianhier- this 5.345-m-(17-ft-) jardeco- tall Records $ ^ % 9 0 7 Japanese Garden North ofthecafé atthebot- Elephant’s Foot Trees The alongsidea jarstands Swan Lake The World’s TallestJar 1 struggle tomake the Monte’s traditional and thedrivers have to now covered inasphalt, toboggans. The roadis to Funchal frequentedby 2 overlooks theroaddown hasofficially recognized corner ofthegarden Guinness Book of (left) the south-western £ , anotherwicker The balcony at Belvedere . Madeira’s Top 10 29 ways. Camhino do

d Gardens: open • See pp14–15, 20, 24–5, 26, 26, 24–5, 20, See pp14–15, Japanese Garden Japanese leonine marble Guarded by Tiles and Sculpture Tiles and deco- are also terraces The Admission €10 (under 15s free) (under 15s €10 Admission 291 782 339

• ) ( temple dogs, the Japanese Gar- temple dogs, the Japanese con- lush green vegetation den’s red trasts sharply with the bright bridges and tradi- of the gardens’ arch tional Japanese rated with 17th- and 18th-century and 18th-century rated with 17th- with painted “wainscots” tile religious scenes, and cherubs from demolished salvaged around and chapels convents Ital- Note, too, the ﬁne Portugal. head, with well ian Romanesque more “The motto, its amusing to have the less you give, you worry about!”

Map H5

• Monte Palace was a more modest mansion in the 18th century, when the estate belonged to the English consul Charles Murray. Later expanded into a hotel, it now belongs to the José Berardo Foundation, an educational and environmental concern endowed by a Madeira- born entrepreneur who made his fortune extracting gold from mining waste in South Africa. The terraces around the house display ancient and modern sculptures, as well as peacocks and “Ali Baba” pots. Monte Palace Figuera Figuera laurisilva Monte 9:30am–6pm daily. (Madeiran (Madeiran , including the , including the Euphorbia piscatoria – “the fig from hell”), hell”), “the fig from – Ilex perado Ilex For more on the Quintas listed above more on the Quintas listed above For 59 56, 44–45, 27, carved in fine-grained (see p23) Imperador Ferreiro

Quinta da Palmeira Vigia Quinta Quinta do Jardins Magnólia Quinta Quinta do Monte Quinta do Palheiro Vista Quinta da Boa Quinta Sucesso do Bom Quinta das Cruzes Quinta do Furão Limestone Nativity Limestone the above On the terrace Madeiran Flora Madeiran the main path of the left To

9 0 8 6 7 4 5 2 3 1 Top 10 Other Quintas to Visit Monte Palace Monte

* & (known in Portuguese as in Portuguese (known do inferno once sap was whose poisonous ﬁsh. stunning used for holly) and thornless lake, look for the 16th-century the 16th-century look for lake, Nativity the Renaissance limestone by panels The de Rouen. artist Jean their depicting shepherds and are especially charming. ﬂocks is an area devoted to plants to plants is an area devoted Madeira’s indigenous to forest forest 30 Madeira’s Top 10 English poet)describedtheCurralas“oneofgreatsightsworld”. convent withaheavyheart.Visitingin1825,HNColeridge(thenephewofthe nestles there.)Fromsuchabeautifulspot,theymusthavereturnedtotheircity attacked theisland.(Thesamenameisalsogiventolittlevillagethatnow hideaway bythenunsofSantaClaraConvent interior istovisitCurraldasFreiras(“Nuns’Refuge”),thehiddenvalleyusedasa The easiestwaytogetafeelforthesublimegrandeurofMadeira’smountainous • MapG4 Curral dasFreiras Café, Nuns Valley Monte combination with das Freiras, often in day trips to Curral in Funchal offer half- Many tour companies spectacular views. on aterrace with Café, coffee isserved At theNuns Valley bus 81. carros daCamacha on theroute of Auto- Curral dasFreiras is the village. viewing pointabove Serrado, the as far asEira do these trips go only (see p75) Câmara deLobos Curral dasFreiras (see p26) . Mostof or (below) douro front ofthehotel,ashort much apartofvisitto Eira doSerrado here, thevillagefar below Socorridos Valley.From footpath leadsuptoa Curral dasFreiras asthe looks like “Shangri-La” – descent intothevillage the utopiaofJames Hilton’s itself. There isahoteland novel restaurant, soifyourestaurant, fall in love withtheromantic view, you canstay for lunch or dinner, oreven spend the night @ ! 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features Village Chestnut Woods Road Footpath View to the West View totheNorth View totheEast The Sublime Miradouro Eira do Serrado From thecar parkin Miradouro Admiring from thisvista Eira doSerrado , orviewing point Lost Horizon , highabove the (seep116) (right) (1933). . isas mira-

like shape,early explorers and early19th-century taste for the “sublime” inart, painters ofthetimevisiting exaggerate theheightof Madeira would deliberately mountains andwaterfalls.mountains $ £ Because ofits cauldron- View to theEast To catertothe18th- The Sublime (see pp16–17) cular form ispurely cano. Infact, the cir- das Freiras, withits thought theCurral the resultofmillions sheer totheeast, dramatic cliffs rising of years ofriver and was acollapsed vol rain erosion. wheneverpirates - Madeira’s Top 10 31 - -

that begins that begins (above) Footpath visit prolong your To Road Until the road was received in the attack. received died from a wound he died from a wound Montluc gained nothing from his piracy, as he the French pirate Ber- the French massacring all who stood in their way. The worst attack attack worst The when in 1566, occurred plundered the city’s plundered the city’s and mansions churches period, a 15-day over less than three forts. less than three forts. with 1,000 men and is why Funchal has no Funchal is why menace in the early his- trand de Montluc, landed at Praia Formosa Formosa ed at Praia Pirates Ahoy! a serious Pirates were tory of Madeira, which & * with big tour buses. tunnel, it cannot cope it cannot cope tunnel, with two stretches of of with two stretches into the cliff face, and and face, into the cliff along the cobbled foot can return by bus 81. bus 81. by can return has 52 bends; at the bot more than a ledge cut more than a ledge cut walk down to the village to the village down walk in and out of the way uphill to the village. You You uphill to the village. but even the road is little the road is little but even in the car park. The path path The in the car park. to the Curral, you can can you to the Curral, path the only built in 1959, tom, turn right and walk walk right and tom, turn valley was the footpath; the footpath; was valley - -

. (left) laurisilva ). In June, ). In June, . Lower down, down, Lower Beyond, the next the next Beyond, (see p23 (see p81) The descent to the descent to the The Chestnut Woods View to the West the to View is a the west To ( ^ there is natural there is natural produce edible chestnuts produce edible chestnuts in October. chestnut woods woods chestnut look out for wild orchids. wild orchids. look out for sweetly scented ﬂower scented ﬂower sweetly and August, stems in village takes you through through village takes you forest The trees bear white, trees bear white, The Ribeira Brava to São Vice to São Ribeira Brava great valley runs from from runs great valley Cavalho, Pico do Serradhi Cavalho, Grande. prominent peaks: Pico do Pico do prominent peaks: 1,654 m (5,427 ft), Pico Pico ft), 1,654 m (5,427 Pass Pass serrated ridge with three three ridge with serrated no and, highest of all at of all at no and, highest nte via the Encumeada nte via the Encumeada . - – castanha (right)

Village will owners café The To the north beyond beyond the north To View to the North the to View

) % coast, endangering the the coast, endangering tranquillity of the Curral. chestnut liqueur chestnut ending just after it disap ending just after through the island’s through the island’s mountainous centre and to the north take the road sweet chestnut cake. cake. chestnut sweet Sample, too, the delicious chestnut dishes chestnut up the valley, currently currently up the valley, are plans to tunnel are plans to tunnel roasted salted chestnuts, roasted salted chestnuts, soup and chestnut rich urge you to tryurge you their the village, a road heads a road heads the village, pears from view. There There pears from view. Pico do Arieiro Mountaineering equipment is not needed to get to the top of Madeira’s third highest peak, because a road takes you all the way from the bustle of Funchal to the silence of the summit in less than an hour. The mountain top provides a viewing platform from which to look out over the multiple peaks and ravines of the island’s central mountains. Standing aloft here, you have a chance to study the astonishing range of rock formations left over from the violent volcanic upheavals that led to the creation of the island.

Top 10 Features 1 Ecological Park 2 Ice House 3 Sheep Pens 4 Trig Point Madeira’s Top 10 5 The view from Pico Footpath do Arieiro 6 Café 7 There is a covenient View to the West 8 café at the summit. Volcanic Dykes 9 View to the East Pico do Arieiro can 0 Wildlife be wrapped in cloud for much of the day. Ecological Park The best times of ! Some 12 km (7 miles) day for ﬁne weather out of Funchal on the drive are before 10am and up, you pass the entrance after 5pm. Alterna- to the Ecological Park, tively, you can take a where primeval forest is chance on the clouds being restored. With its clearing for your viewing points and glades, visit. It is often possi- it is popular for picnics. ble to drive up £ Sheep Pens through the clouds Livestock has been and emerge to ﬁnd banned from the Ecological the summit basking Park to allow Madeiran bil- in sunshine. berry and heather to thrive, but sheep and goats graze Even at the height of around the summit and their summer, it can be circular pens are seen here. cold and windy at the Trig Point summit, and in win- $ A short scramble up ter, ice and snow are from the café brings you to common. It is best to @ Ice House the actual summit, 1,818 m take warm and water- This igloo-shaped build- (5,965 ft) above sea level. It proof clothing. ing (above), 2 km (1 mile) is marked by a concrete south of the peak, is called post used for measuring alti- • Map G4 Poço da Neve (“Snow tude and location (below). Well”), and was built in 1813 by an Italian ice cream maker. Ice from pits like this one provided wealthy hotel guests with “snow water” in the heat of summer.

32 Buses do not go to the peak, but taxis will take you there and back for a fixed fee. Madeira’s Top 10 33

- eye (above) from the from the eways were formed. were away View to the West the to View westward view The Café on photographs The the caves at São Vicente at São the caves 6,450 years ago, when 6,450 years east. Volcanic activityeast. Volcanic did not finally cease until Santo da Serra to the Santo da Serra Serra to the west and to the west Serra plains of the Paúl da plains of the Paúl core, creating the flatter core, creating the flatter another 2.25 million further eruptions years, sid spilled lava from the island’s central from the island’s its present height. For its present height. For Pico do Arieiro to reach Arieiro to reach Pico do took 15 million years for for million years took 15 layer of basaltic rock. It of basaltic rock. layer floor to create layer upon floor to create layer up through the ocean years ago, as lava burst ago, as lava years Island Origins long, slow Madeira’s million birth began 18 (see p81) & ^ glare of city lights. night sky dawn, or to view the the or to view dawn, of the sky at dusk or of the sky at dusk or visits to enjoy the colours the colours visits to enjoy Mars than the Earth. Mars than the Earth. tempt you to make return return to make tempt you more like the surface of of the surface more like volcanic rocks, in a scene in a scene rocks, volcanic can see. The predomi The can see. snow. They might well might well They snow. and purples of oxidized and purples of oxidized succession of knife-edge succession of knife-edge as the peaks as far sunset, at sunrise and in and in sunset, at sunrise reds, rust browns, blacks blacks browns, reds, rust mountain range, with its café show the peak at peak at the show café nant colours are the fiery from the summit takes in the entire central the walls of the summit the summit of the walls - - . On a . On a (see p23) View to the East to View to the east view The ( into the distance. São Lourenço, curving off curvingSão Lourenço, off the island’s indigenous indigenous the island’s forest rocky tail, the Ponta de de tail, the Ponta rocky see the meadow land see the meadow green wooded slopes of slopes of green wooded and the island’s long long and the island’s clear day, it is possible to it is possible to clear day, looks down over the the over looks down scape of Santo da Serra, scape of Santo da Serra, -

and heather, you you and heather, links four links four

Even on the bare, dryEven Wildlife Volcanic Dykes Volcanic Another distinctive A footpath A footpath Footpath

)

* % forces of rain, frost and of rain, frost and forces have resisted the erosive resisted the erosive have hard volcanic rock that that rock hard volcanic in fact, vertical seams of seams of vertical in fact, storms, tunnels and unprotected drops). A large yel A large drops). and unprotected storms, tunnels the landscape. These are, are, These the landscape. challenging mountain (including sudden conditions challenging follow the contours of the contours of follow outcrops, resembling the outcrops, resembling the of China, that Wall Great be attempted unless you are properly equipped for for are properly equipped you unless be attempted wherever a crack pro a crack wherever series of parallel grey series of parallel grey m (110 yards) or so for fine views back to the summit. to the summit. back fine views or so for yards) m (110 most exciting most exciting It should not walks. peaks, plants find a niche peaks, plants find a niche west and south is a and south is a west can spot grasshoppers can spot grasshoppers and the well-camouflaged butterfly. grayling native one of the island’s one of the island’s rocks of Madeira’s high high of Madeira’s rocks feature of the view to the to the of the view feature low sign marks the start of the path. Walk the first 100 first 100 the Walk marks the start sign of the path. low ture. Among the gorse ture. vides shelter and mois (right) main peaks and is is main peaks and (right)

Left Reid’s Hotel Right Statue of Tristão Vaz Teixeira in Machico Moments in History

Island Formation Perestrelo governed Porto Santo. ! Twenty million years ago the Machico was initially the capital, islands of the Madeiran group but Funchal had a better harbour began to emerge from the sea and gained city status in 1508. (first Porto Santo, then Madeira and the Ilhas Desertas). Pockets of Prosperity fertile soil were created as storms % By 1470, Madeira’s early Madeira’s Top 10 eroded the softer layers of vol- settlers were exporting wheat, canic ash. Slowly the island came dyestuffs, wine and timber, but to life, as seeds excreted by visit- sugar produced the biggest ing birds took root and spread. profits. Trading with London, Antwerp, Venice and Genoa, the Early Visitors island bloomed for 150 years as @ Sailors visited Madeira to Europe’s main sugar producer, gather sap from dragon trees for channelling the profits into use in dying clothes. Mentioned building and art. in the Natural History of Pliny the Elder (AD 23–79), Madeira first Wine appears on the Medici Map of ^ Quick profits and wealth 1351, as “Isola de Loleg- became a thing of the past name” (“Wooded Isle”). once Caribbean and Brazil- ian sugar hit European Zarco Arrives markets in the mid-16th £ Prince Henry “the century. Malvazia Navigator” (1394–1460), (Malmsey), a rich sweet third son of King John I wine, then took over as of Portugal, realized how Madeira’s main export. It valuable Madeira was to is the favourite drink of sailors exploring the Atlantic Prince Henry Shakespeare’s roistering Ocean. He sent João “The Navigator” character Falstaff. Gonçalves Zarco (1387– 1467) (see p15) to the islands. The British Arrive Zarco landed on Porto Santo, and & British merchants dominated returned in 1420 to claim Madei- the wine trade after Charles II ra for Portugal. married the Portuguese princess Catherine of Braganza in 1662, Colonization and British (and American) taxes $ Portuguese colonization of on Madeira wine were reduced Madeira began in 1425, when as part of the marriage settle- Zarco returned to govern the ment. So valuable was Madeira southwestern half from Funchal. to the British that an armed force Tristão Vaz Teixeira controlled the was sent in 1801 to prevent northeastern half, and Bartolomeu Napoleon from capturing it. 36 Preceding pages Traditional A-framed houses, Santana Madeira’s Top 10 37 . . ave The Hinge Hinge The (see p27) , in 1768. (volume 4 of his mem- (volume Hotel in 1951. Margaret Thatcher Margaret British prime future The Emperor Charles I Charles Emperor Austro-Hungarian last The Shaw Bernard George the Irish in 1927, Visiting Churchill Winston wrote Churchill Columbus Columbus came as a Captain Kidd found Nobody has ever Cook Captain James called in at explorer The Napoleon French vanquished The Robert Machin Robert sailor shipwrecked This III King Ladislaw of lost the Battle Having ) & * ( # $ % ^ Top 10 Famous Famous Top 10 Visitors ! @ of Fate oirs) while staying at Reid’s Hotel in 1949. minister, Margaret Thatcher, Thatcher, Margaret minister, at the spent her honeymoon Savoy emperor died in exile on on emperor died in exile Madeira in 1922 praised his dancing playwright “the only man as instructor taught me anything” who ever sugar merchant in 1478–9, in 1478–9, sugar merchant on his in 1498 and returned the for World New to the way last time. the treasure that the pirate Captain Kidd is said to h Madeira on his ship, the Endeavour emperor bought wine at Fun- on St to exile on his way chal Helena in 1815. and his lover Anne of Hertford Anne of Hertford and his lover in the 1370s. died on Madeira king the former in 1414, Varna one of Madei- was of Poland first settlers. ra’s buried on Ilhas Desertas in the 1690s. ave Revolution, it had it had Revolution, whales and dolphins

Investment is nearing its 500th Funchal Autonomy Madeira escaped the worst Reid’s Hotel Reid’s Wars the Napoleonic Once

Catherine of Braganza Catherine )

( * anniversary as the capital an of increasingly prosperous island. and roads h harbours New as boosted tourism, as well the transport of fresh improving are protected produce. Its forests Heri- Natural World as a UNESCO tage Site, and to its waters. returned have become Europe’s poorest region. poorest region. become Europe’s dictator- Portugal’s In that year, toppled in a coup by ship was celebrating Later, ofﬁcers. army in stuck soldiers had carnations civil- joyous by their gun barrels Madeira became ians. In 1976, tax, for for- autonomous, except eign policy and defence. effects of the two World Wars, Wars, World of the two effects of Portu- the year 1974, but by Carnation gal’s were over, Madeira became a a Madeira became over, were destination holiday popular winter enough to those wealthy for escape from northern to afford of the era is Europe. Symbolic William by Hotel, founded Reid’s a poor sailor in who arrived Reid, renting fortune and made a 1836 houses to aristocratic visitors. Left Museu Photographia Vincentes Right Casa Museu Frederico de Freitas Museums

Museu de Arte Sacra, A Cidade do Açúcar, ! Funchal $ Funchal Funchal’s Religious Art Devoted to the island’s early Museum is renowned for sugar trade, this museum its colourful 16th-century is also on the site of a Flemish paintings, but house where Christo- also has many remarka- pher Columbus stayed Madeira’s Top 10 ble polychrome wooden for six days in 1498, dur- statues (see pp10–11). ing his third voyage to the New World. d Praça @ Adegas de São Franciscan saints, do Colombo 5 • Map P3 • 291 Francisco, Funchal Museu de Arte Sacra 236 910 • 10am–12:30pm, A guided visit to this 2–6pm Mon–Fri • Adm charge charming, cobblestoned vintage Madeira wine lodge is a heady Museu Photographia experience involving all the % Vicentes, Funchal senses (see pp12–13). Founded by Vincent Gomes da Silva in 1852 (12 years after pho- Museu da Quinta das tography was invented), this pho- £ Cruzes, Funchal tographic studio survives, This is the house where Madei- complete with cameras, sets and ra’s ﬁrst ruler lived when Madeira costumes. d Rua da Carreira 43 • Map was still young – the newest P3 • 291 225 050 • 10am–12:30pm, 2– addition to Portugal’s growing 5pm Mon–Fri • Adm charge portfolio of overseas colonies at the start of the great Age of Dis- Museu Municipal e covery in the 15th century. Paint- ^ Aquário, Funchal ings and sketches of the island’s This museum offers a darkened major landmarks hang on the aquarium downstairs, and a walls of the Quinta’s richly deco- study collection of stuffed ﬁsh, rated rooms (see pp14–15). birds and other Madeiran wildlife upstairs. d Rua da Mouraria 33 • Map P2 • 291 229 761 • 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Sat–Sun • Adm charge

Casa Museu Frederico de & Freitas, Funchal Housed in a 19th-century mansion packed with antiques and religious paintings, this museum also has an amusing collection of teapots Picnic by T. da Anunciacao, Museu da Quinta from all over the world. A new das Cruzes wing is devoted to ceramic tiles, 38 Madeira’s Top 10 39 . ave

. (see p14) (see p12) . Scrimshaws Whalebones carved and Winter Garden Winter Art Nouveau Fern-filled, Cockerel with Boy portrait of a Madeiran This Fishing Boats painted blue, red, Boats Indian Miniature depicted as a Virgin The Animal Bones that could h Bones Albums Photo Sepia-tinted prints of 150 Eels Moray denizens Sharp-fanged Processional Cross Processional sil- Superb Renaissance Murals Max Romer Grape-harvest scenes ) & * ( # $ % ^ Top 10 Museum Museum Top 10 Exhibits ! @ etched in the days before before in the days etched illegal hunting whales was (Museu da Baleia). glass conservatory at the Casa de Freitas. Museu Frederico is one of Hen- peasant boy best (Museu rique Franco’s Franco). Henrique e Francisco once and white were yellow common in every Madeiran fishing port (Museu Etnográfi- co da Madeira). Mogul princess (Room 1, 1, Mogul princess (Room Quinta das Cruzes) (Museu of island life years Photographia Vicentes). of the deep (Museu Municipal e Aquário). verwork, with the Evangelists verwork, with the Evangelists in relief and biblical scenes Arte Sacra) (Museu de (see p10) of youth the vigour capturing and the golden light of de São (Adegas autumn Francisco) Columbus, by been chewed (A archaeologists dug up by Açúcar). Cidade do

d Rua João de Deus João Rua Rua de São Francis- Rua d d Museu da Baleia, Caniçal Museu da Baleia, on the lives, displays Uplifting Museu Etnográfico da Museu Etnográfico Brava Ribeira Madeira, Museu Henrique e Museu Henrique Funchal Franco, Francisco

Largo Manuel Alves • Map L4 • 291 Alves Largo Manuel

Museu Henrique e Francisco Franco e Francisco Museu Henrique

d ) A fascinating record of traditional record of traditional A fascinating on Madeira. life (

* brothers, artistic Franco The and (1883–1961) painter Henrique (1855–1955), sculptor Francisco in Lisbon Madeira to ﬁnd fame left are achievements Their and Paris. celebrated here. with superb early examples from from examples early with superb churches. Madeiran long-gone 961 407 • 10am–noon, 1–6pm Tue–Sun • Tue–Sun 1–6pm 961 407 • 10am–noon, free) (children charge Adm history and conservation of the whale and other sea mammals.

12:30pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm charge Adm • Tue–Sun 2–6pm 12:30pm, co 24 • Map D5 • 291 952 598 • 10am– co 24 • Map D5 • 291 952 598 • 10am–

12:30pm, 2–6pm Mon–Fri • Adm charge Adm • 2–6pm Mon–Fri 12:30pm, 13 • Map N4 • 291 230 633 • 10am– N4 • 291 230 633 • 10am– • Map 13

Sat, 10am–12:30pm Sun • Adm charge Adm Sun • Sat, 10am–12:30pm

220 578 • 10am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue– Tue– 2–5:30pm 220 578 • 10am–12:30pm, Calçada de Santa • Map N2 • 291 Clara 7 Left Last Supper São Salvador Right Funchal Cathedral (Sé) Churches

Funchal Cathedral (Sé) Igreja do São Pedro, ! Funchal cathedral set the $ Funchal pattern for the island’s other The main church until the cathe- churches with its talha dourada dral was built, St Peter’s has a (“gilded woodwork”), as the wealth of gilded wood-work, Holy Sacrament chapel (to the some dating from the 17th centu-

Madeira’s Top 10 right of the high altar) demon- ry. The corn and grapes being strates (see pp8–9). gathered by angels in the right- hand chapel are symbolic of the Santa Clara, Funchal bread and wine of Christ’s Last @ Founded in 1476 by João Supper. A simple slab covers the Gonçalves de Câmara, son of grave of João de Mourarolim Zarco (see pp15, 36), this con- (died 1661), who paid for the dec- vent has changed little since it oration. d Rua do São Pedro • Map N2 was ﬁrst built (see pp16–17). São Salvador, Santa Cruz Igreja do Colégio, Funchal % This Gothic parish church £ The Jesuits, a brotherhood of was completed in 1512, when missionary priests, owned large the tomb of the merchant Micer wine estates on Madeira, and João, supported by crouching spent some of their wealth on lions, was installed on the north this lovely church, covered from side. Next to it is the chapel of ﬂoor to ceiling in frescoes, gilded the Morais family (1522). The carvings and rare ceramic tiles. altar has 16th-century paintings The school they built alongside is of the Life of Christ by Gregório now the University of Madeira. d Lopes, and the sacristy, entered Praça do Município • Map P3 through a Manueline portal, has a 16th-century carved and painted Last Supper tableau. d Map K5

Igreja da Nossa Senhora ^ da Conceição, Machico Probably designed by Pêro Anes, who designed Funchal cathedral, this church dates from 1499 and is noted for its south door – the white marble pillars come from Seville and were a gift from King Manuel I (1495–1521). So, too, was the statue of the Virgin kept in its tabernacle at the peak of the elaborately gilded high altar. Igreja do Colégio, Funchal d Map K4 40 Many churches in Funchal are open from 8am–noon or 1pm, then from 4–7:30pm. Others only open for services (around 8am, 6pm). Capela dos Milagres, Top 10 Religious & Machico The Chapel of the Miracles takes Figures its name from the 15th-century ! St Laurence Flemish crucifix on the high altar. São Lourenço was the Madeira’s Top 10 name of the ship in which It was miraculously found float- Captain Zarco (see p36) set ing at sea, years after the old sail for Madeira in 1420. chapel was washed away by a flood in 1803. The original chapel @ St Vincent is said to have been built over The patron saint of Portugal and of wine makers is depicted the grave of Anne of Hertford on the ceiling of the church in and Robert Machin, legendary São Vicente (see p81). lovers shipwrecked here in the 14th century. d Map K4 # Our Lady of Monte According to local legend, the Virgin gave this statue to a São Bento, Ribeira Brava shepherdess (see p26). * A lion and a basilisk (whose stare was said to turn humans to $ Our Lady of Terreiro stone) are among the carvings da Luta on the capitals, font and pulpit of This huge statue (see p78) was built in thanks for protec- this Gothic parish church. Don’t tion during World War I. miss the magnificent 16th-century Flemish Nativity and statue of % St Anthony of Padua the Virgin. d Map D5 The Lisbon-born saint preaches to fish in the Sacred Art Museum (see p10) and the Fishermen’s Chapel (see p42). ^ St Ignatius Loyola The founder of the Jesuit order graces the façade of the Colégio (see p40). & Christ the Redeemer Erected in 1927, this cliff- Senhora da Luz, Ponta do Sol top statue (see p87) resem- bles the famous landmark in Brazil’s capital, Rio de Janeiro. ( Senhora da Luz, Ponta do Sol * St Francis and Founded in 1486 by Rodrigo St Clare Anes, one of the first men grant- Patron saints of Madeira’s relied land on Madeira by the Portu- gious houses, the Santa Clara Convent (see p16) and the guese king, this lovely church São Francisco Friary (see p12). has an original knotwork ceiling, a 16th-century Flemish altar- ( Mary Jane Wilson piece, and a unique ceramic font, Indian-born founder of a Madeira-based teaching order. glazed with green copper oxide d d Wilson Museum: Rua do to resemble bronze. Map D5 Carmo 61. Open 10am–noon, 3– 5pm Tue–Sat, 10–noon Sun ) Capela do Loreto, Loreto Another unspoiled, historic ) Emperor Charles I early church, boasting a knotwork Former Austrian emperor, buried in Monte (see p26) and ceiling and Gothic doorways of beatified by Pope John Paul II. imported white marble. d Map C4 If you have made a special visit to a church and found it locked, 41 it’s worth asking about the key at a nearby store or bar. 0 Left Câmara Municipal Right House of the Consuls 1

p Historic Buildings o T

Alfândega, Funchal House of the Consuls, s ’ ! Designed in 1508 by Pêro $ Funchal a

r Anes (who also designed the Few traditional Madeiran houses i

e cathedral), the Customs House are more ornate than this 18th-

d was built to collect the taxes lev- century house built for foreign

a ied by the Portuguese Crown on diplomats. d Rua de Conceição • Map

M Madeira’s timber, corn and sugar P3 • Closed to the public. exports. Now home to the island’s Regional Assembly, it Fishermen’s Chapel, has three splendid upper-floor % Câmara de Lobos rooms (see p9). d Rua da Alfândega This simple, moving chapel on • Map P3 • 291 210 500 • the harbour is where By appointment • Free fishermen come to pray before and after Câmara they put out to sea. @ Municipal, Wall paintings depict Funchal the story of how St Madeira’s early 19th- Anthony of Padua century town hall (who was born in Lis- originally belonged to bon) survived a ship- the Count of Carvalhal wreck, and was so (see p24). Look in the eloquent that even the inner courtyard to see fishes of the sea came graceful balconies and Manueline door, Alfândega to hear him preach. d a sensuous statue of (Customs House) Câmara de Lobos • Map F6 Leda and the Swan (1880), brought here when the market ^ Igreja Inglesa, Funchal was built in 1937 (see p18). The English Church (1822) is d Praça do Município • Map N3 • Ask a domed Neo-Classical building the porter for permission to view set in a delightful garden. Its the courtyard construction was funded by public appeal; Nelson, George II and £ Tower House, Funchal the Duke of Wellington all con- Opposite the Museum of tributed. d Rua do Quebra Costas • Sacred Art (see pp10–11) is a Map P2 stately building with a torre- mirante. Typical of the grander of Capela de Santa Catarina, Funchal’s town houses, these & Funchal towers were built so the owners Founded in 1425 by Constança de could view incoming ships. Note Almeida, Zarco’s wife, this chapel, that the door handles are made perched above the harbour, was from large iron keys. d Rua do the first to be built in Funchal. d Bispo • Map P3 Jardim de Santa Catarina • Map Q2

42 Gold coins paid by the exiled Napoleon for a barrel of Madeira wine are buried beneath the foundation stone of the English Church. Madeira’s Top 10 43 line line (“pleasure (“pleasure (see p38). (see p38). (see p45) (see p38). Madeira Cable Car Cable Madeira Station Quintas the Ornate mansions like Casino Aven- casino on 1970s The Navio Apartamentos Azul Pátio of the inner courtyard The Rua da Carreira iron A street of ﬂamboyant Rua da Mouraria antiques quarter Funchal’s Gazebo Garden tea, admire the views Take Toyota Car Showroom Toyota Chamber of former The of New Chamber Commerce casinha de prazer casinha de prazer ) public build- newest Funchal’s cube of steel ing is a futuristic Dom Carlos. and glass on Rua & ( ( of an ocean liner, Reminiscent stands beside block this 1970s the Estrada Monumental. # $ % ^ Top 10 Flamboyant Flamboyant Top 10 in Funchal Buildings ! @ Chamber of Commerce Today’s is located in a 15th-century Aranhas. dos Rua building off Quinta Palmeira Funchal. above the terraces looks wonderful ida do Infante lit up at night. 1860s Pátio (Rua da Carreira da Carreira (Rua Pátio 1860s dou- a sweeping 43) features ble staircase leading to the Museum Vicentes balconies – especially at numbers 77–91 and 155. aristocratic town has many houses, including the Museu Municipal at go by the world and watch a Commerce on Avenida Arriaga Arriaga Commerce on Avenida of pictures tile is clad in 1930s Madeiran transport. the one in the like house”) Museum Freitas

Ave- d (see p40). Rua Dom Car- Rua Zarco Monu- d

(1927), showing Funchal’s Funchal’s showing (1927), Banco de Portugal, Funchal Banco de Portugal, build- of Portugal Bank The Capela do Corpo Santo, Santo, Capela do Corpo Funchal Madeira University, University, Madeira Funchal

Rua dos Ferreiros • Map P3 Ferreiros dos Rua

Banco de Portugal ) This 16th-century chapel in the in the chapel 16th-century This built was Town) (Old Velha Zona the Guild of São Pedro by and run a self-help charity Gonçalves, ﬁshermen raised funds for which and their families. ( d * buildings of this 17th-century The being college are old Jesuit campus. a new form restored to the inner courtyard, there From of tower of the are good views Colégio the Igreja do founder looking out to sea. looking founder ing (1940) maintains continuity ing (1940) with with traditional architecture, its globe-topped corner turret, and fruit- Grecian marble statues, symbolizing wealth ﬁlled baskets miss don’t Nearby, and plenty. Franco’s Francisco ment

los I • Map P5 nida Zarco • Map P3 Left Jardim Botânico (Botanical Gardens), Funchal Right Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro Gardens

Jardim de São Francisco, ! Funchal St Francis, the patron saint of the environment, would ﬁrmly approve of this richly planted garden, built in the city centre on the site of Funchal’s long-gone Madeira’s Top 10 Franciscan friary. It is only the size of a city block, but so full of scented and ﬂowering plants, shaded by some truly enormous trees, that you could be in the middle of the jungle. d Avenida Arriaga • Map P2 • Free Monte Palace Tropical Garden

Jardim de Santa Catarina, Monte Palace Tropical @ Funchal $ Garden, Monte On the walk from downtown to This intriguing botanical garden the hotel zone, this terraced park is full of caves, fountains, lakes, has fantastic views over the har- fish ponds, Japanese temples, bour. Look out for statues of stone and bronze sculptures, and Henry the Navigator at the lower novel tile pictures (see pp28–9). end, Christopher Columbus by the Capela de Santa Catarina Quinta Magnólia, Funchal (see p42) and Francisco Franco’s % The Quinta Magnólia, built in Semeador (the “Sower,” 1919, the 1820s as home to the US see p39), symbolically throwing consul, now houses the Foreign handfuls of seed across the Culture Library. Its palm-filled grass. d Avenida do Infante gardens (with public • Map Q2 • Free pool, tennis courts and playground) lie along Quinta das the terraced flanks of £ Cruzes, Funchal the Ribeira Seca valley. The flower-filled d Rua do Dr Pita • 9am–dusk grounds of this Carved lions in Quinta das Mon–Fri • Map G6 • Free “archaeological park” Cruzes (see p14) boasts grave slabs, a Quinta Vigia, Funchal private chapel, a wonderful ^ The lovingly maintained orchid garden and a casinha de official gardens of Madeira’s prazer (“pleasure house”), president are open on weekdays, perched on the walls to take provided that no official functions advantage of the views (see are taking place. d Avenida do pp14–15). Infante • Map Q1 • Free 44 Quinta do Palheiro Top 10 Madeiran & Ferreiro, Palheiro Ferreiro Subtropical plants in unusual and Plants and Flowers imaginative combinations are dis- ! King Protea These South African plants, played in a style that is recogniz- Madeira’s Top 10 similar to giant artichokes, are ably English (see pp24–5). in demand for flower displays. Jardim Botânico, Funchal @ Slipper Orchid * These extraordinary gardens Mainly flowering in the are a showcase for Madeira’s winter months, slipper orchids need jungle-like shade. varied plant life (see pp20–21). # Mexican Poinsettia Hospício Princesa Dona These festive plants ( Maria Amélia, Funchal bloom right on cue for Christ- Popular for wedding photos, this mas; note that the showy, scarlet part is actually the hospital was founded in memory bract, not the flower. of Brazilian princess Maria Amélia, who died here in 1853. $ Aloe d Avenida do Infante • Map Q1 • Free Fleshy leaves edged with spines produce flower spikes Quinta Palmeira, Funchal up to 1 m (3 ft) high. The sap ) is harvested, and used in mak- Despite being blighted by ing aloe vera skin products. one of Funchal’s new fast high- ways, this former home of the % Agapanthus Gordon wine family hovers The blue-and-white globe- shaped blossoms of the Lily between garden and wilderness, of the Nile line Madeira’s with manicured rose gardens, roadside banks in summer. tiled fountains, and grottoes and jungle-like areas yet to be ^ Strelitzia restored. Don’t miss the 15th- Is it a bird or is it a plant? These long-lived flowers look century Columbus Window, res- like exotic birds of paradise. cued from the home of João Esmeraldo. d Rua da Levada de Santa & Angel’s Trumpet Luzia 31A • Map G6 • 291 221 091 • White, yellow or amber, 9am–noon, 2–5pm Mon–Fri • Adm charge the datura’s long trumpets both smell and look beautiful. * Arum Lily Pure white and sweetly scented, these flowers symbolize the Virgin Mary and virginity. ( Flame of the Forest Crowned by orange-red coxcombs, these trees are descended from seed brought to Madeira by Captain Cook in 1772. ) Jacaranda Funchal’s Avenida Arriaga turns into a river of blue when these striking Brazilian trees flower in spring. Columbus Window, Quinta Palmeira 45 Left Beach at Praia Formosa Right Rock pools, Porto Moniz Beaches

Praia Formosa Ponta do Sol ! Steep-sided Madeira does £ The beach at Ponta do Sol not have many beaches – cliffs (“Sun Point”) is the perfect place and rocky shores are the norm – to watch the setting sun. Dra- so Praia Formosa (“Beautiful matic clouds ﬂoat like islands in Beach”), a stretch of grey, sea- a pink and purple sky. d Map D5 smoothed pebbles between Fun- Madeira’s Top 10 chal and Câmara de Lobos, is a Jardim do Mar notable exception. Madeira’s $ In October, the narrow strip government has just begun to of west-facing rocky beach con- realize what an asset this could necting Jardim do Mar and Paúl be; it has plans to landscape the do Mar is the point from which area around the beach and surfers gain access to the remove the unsightly oil depots. waves. Surfers need to bring d Map G6 their own equipment as there are no rental facilities. d Map B4

Porto Moniz % Thundering waves dash Madeira’s northern shores along the dramatic north coast road to Porto Moniz, but once there you can relax in the sun-warmed water of natural rock pools, and let those same waves shower you with spray. d Map B1

Câmara de Lobos São Jorge ^ About 2 km (1 mile) east of Câmara de Lobos São Jorge, a sign to Praia @ Madeira’s most photogenic (“Beach”) directs you to the estu- beach was put on the map when ary of the São Jorge river, where Winston Churchill, the famous you can either swim in a natural British wartime prime minister, pool in the bend of the river or, if set up his easel here in 1949. you prefer, in the sea (access is Churchill was an accomplished from the small pebbled beach). artist, with an eye for a well- There’s a beach café selling composed scene. Nearly 50 drinks and snacks. d Map H2 years later, that scene has not changed: colourfully striped ﬁsh- Prainha ing boats are still lined up on the & A pretty, sheltered bay with cobbles of the little beach for a beachside café at its eastern cleaning and repair. d Map G6 end, Prainha has Madeira’s only 46 Madeira’s Top 10 47

. . d (see p112) (see p112) . Map L4 d Resort Rua do Gorgulho • Rua Rua de Santa Rua Maria • d d (see p44) Caniçal lido with A spanking new Complexo Balnear de Complexo Barreirinha Lido Santa Cruz Art A mini-Miami; small da Cruz Porto pools with rock Natural Lido biggest leisure island’s The Clube Naval of the version Upmarket Gorda Ponta of west bay In the next Savoy and best of all biggest The Reid’s to the Close competitor Quinta Magnólia to the Brit- Once exclusive Map K5 • 10am–6pm daily Map K5 • 10am–6pm Map J3 Map G6 • 10am–6pm daily Map G6 • 10am–6pm ) & de east of the Fortaleza Just Tiago; a small pool but São and sea good diving platform access. * d ( d $ % d ^ Top 10 Swimming Swimming Top 10 Pools ! @ # café on the western side of side of on the western café the harbour. Deco lido with swimming and Deco lido with swimming and paddling pools, sea access, of landing aircraft. and views enjoy concrete extensions; sea luxuriating in sun-warmed sea spray. dashed by water pool complex, with access to access to with pool complex, the sea. Lido, 1 km (half a mile) further around the promenade. west for perfect the Clube Naval, toddlers and sea access. the hotel pools the hotel pools palms in a by shaded Savoy, garden setting ish Country open Club, now to all Map Q6 • 10am–6pm daily Map Q6 • 10am–6pm Map G6 • 8:30am–8pm daily Map G6 • 10am–6pm daily Map G6 • 10am–6pm

Map L4 d Map L2 Map J6 d . d to Porto Santo, Santo, to Porto (see p95) Map J6 d .

(see p103) Porto Santo Porto is incomplete for If a holiday Praia dos Reis Magos Praia Continuing eastward from A path from the statue of of the statue A path from Garajau and Caniço Garajau

Long sandy beach, Porto Santo Porto Long sandy beach, )

( * naturally sandy beach. (Calheta, on sandy beach. naturally a also has coast, now the south – created with sand sandy beach Morocco.) imported from 40 km (25 miles) north-east of 40 km (25 miles) north-east of a can enjoy Madeira, where you of unspoilt (6-mile) stretch 10-km golden sand you without basking on a sandy basking on a sandy without you or a then take a ferry beach, flight Caniço de Baixo, a new seafront seafront a new Caniço de Baixo, dos promenade leads to Praia with beach Magos, a rocky Reis huts and of fishermen’s a scatter selling a couple of simple cafés freshly grilled fish – idyllic for romantics. crowd-shy Christ the Redeemer at Garajau at Garajau Christ the Redeemer popular to a beach winds down and diving. It snorkelling for marks the start of a marine reserve with underwater caves leading to Caniço de Baixo, from can also be reached which the Lido at the Hotel Galomar (see p49) Left Diving Right Golf Outdoor Activities

Helicopter Ride from day-long trips to Ilhas Deser- ! A 15-minute helicopter trip tas (see p88) and half-day whale- around Madeira’s valleys and and dolphin-watching tours, to canyons will give you that James shorter sunset cruises. d Funchal Bond feeling and show you the Marina • Map Q3 • Albatroz: 291 223 366 island from a different point of • Bonita da Madeira: 291 762 218 view. It isn’t cheap, but it’s cer- Madeira’s Top 10 tainly memorable. d HeliAtlântis, $ Deep-sea Fishing Estrada da Pontinha, Funchal Container Fishing trips can be booked Port • Map Q2 • 291 232 882 around the marina. A tag-and- release policy ensures ﬁsh are released into the wild once caught (see p106). d Funchal Marina • Map Q3 • Turipesca: 291 231 063 • Balancal: 291 794 901 • Nautisantos: 291 231 312

Walking % With more than 1,600 km (994 miles) of rural footpaths to choose from, it’s no wonder that thousands of people visit every year just to walk in the island’s Panoramic Balloon mountains and forests (see p50).

Panoramic Balloon Tennis @ Another way to gain an aerial ^ Madeira’s five-star hotels perspective on Funchal is to float have their own courts, but you above the city in a basket dan- can also play on the public courts gling from the underside of the in the Quinta Magnólia. Bookings world’s largest gas-filled balloon. are made at the gatekeeper’s The globe, 20 m (66ft) high, lodge at the entrance. d Rua do Dr takes up to 30 passengers 150 Pita • Map G6 m (492 ft) into the sky, descending to the beach again by means & Golf of an electric winch. d The Madeira Two of Europe’s most scenic Balloon, Avenida do Mar • Map Q3 • 291 courses are located in the east 282 700 • Trips every 15 minutes from of the island at Santo da Serra 9am–10:30pm daily • Adm charge and Palheiro Ferreira. Transport can be arranged from Funchal, £ Boat Trips and equipment hired. d Clube de Booths located around Fun- Golfe de Santo da Serra: Map K4. 550 100 chal’s marina have details of all • Palheiro Golf: Sítio do Balancal, São the cruising options available, Gonçalo. Map J5. 291 790 120 48 Diving Top 10 Madeiran * Clean Atlantic waters, clear visibility and an array of beautiful Wildlife fish and reefs make Madeira a ! Wall Lizards You will see them on popular spot for divers of all ages Madeira’s Top 10 d every sunny rock or pavement. and abilities. Manta Diving Center, They feed on fruit and flies. Hotel Galomar, Caniço de Baixo. Map J6. 291 935 588 • Madeira Divepoint, Carlton @ Wagtails Madeira Hotel, Largo Antonio Nobre, Fun- This yellow-breasted bird chal. Map H6. 291 239 579 is never very far from water, hence its Madeiran nickname: “the washerwoman”. ( Adventure Sports Madeira’s challenging # Swifts countryside lends itself to all Watch them wheeling and sorts of adventure sports, from feeding at dusk along Fun- chal’s seafront promenade. rock-climbing to hang-gliding, but few companies yet exist to $ Kestrels provide organized excursions. These chestnut-backed One that does is Terras de birds nest on the cliffs of the Aventura, offering mountain hotel district, and hover on the wind in search of prey. biking, jeep safaris, off-road biking, climbing, kayaking, % Buzzards canyoning and paragliding. d 291 Often seen riding the 776 818 • www.terrasdeaventura.com warm air above the valleys of Funchal and Curral das Freiras. ) Horse Riding ^ Robins The Associação Hípica da The robins you will see Madeira can provide lessons for on Madeira have the same beginners; for more experienced cheery red breasts as their riders there are guided tours mainland cousins, and just as sweet a song. along Madeira’s beautiful, narrow mountain tracks and hidden for- & Sally Lightfoot Crabs est byways. d Quinta Vila Alpires, These dark brown crabs Camhino dos Pretos, São João de Latrão are often seen grazing tidal • Map H5 • 291 792 582 • Open 3–6pm rocks for algae. They will dis- appear fast if threatened – Tue, 10am–1pm, 3–6pm Wed–Sun (Sun hence “lightfoot”. till 7pm) * Perez’s Frogs Introduced to Madeira by the Count of Carvalhal, this noisy frog with a bright yellow backbone stripe has spread to every pond in the island. ( Monarch butterflies These large orange-black- and-white gliding butterflies are seen in all Madeiran gardens. ) Limpets Limpets are a traditional food on Madeira, but harvesting is now controlled to prevent over-exploitation. Horse riding 49 Left Walkers at Rabaçal Right Water feeding a levada Facts about Levada Walking

What Are Levadas? the wheat, sugar, grape and ! The word levada means “to banana crops, powered the take”. A levada is an irrigation sawmills used to turn trees into channel, designed to take water timber for construction and ship- from places where it is plentiful building, and turned the wheels to those where it is not. The of the mills that crushed sugar. Madeirans borrowed the idea Madeira’s Top 10 from the mountains of Andalucia, Levada Maintenance where the channels are known $ Levadas require constant as acequias. maintenance to remove rockfalls and vegetation that could block Why Levadas were Built the flow of water. Paths were @ Water is abundant in the constructed alongside the chan- mountains to the north of the nels to allow the levadeiro, or island, but scarce in the fertile and maintenance man, to patrol his sunny south, where most crops length of levada and keep it in are grown. Looking for a way to good working order. store water and carry it to their cultivation terraces and fields, the Levadas as Footpaths island’s early settlers began to % On a visit to Madeira in 1974, build the irrigation channels that Pat and John Underwood realized form the basis of today’s network. that levada maintenance paths made perfect footpaths – many of Water and Power which provide the visitor with easy £ Water was essential to the walking routes, with spectacular growth of Madeira. It irrigated views. The resulting guide book, Landscapes of Madeira (Sunflower Books), has brought thousands of walkers to the island.

Construction ^ Constructing levadas was a feat of engineering. Following the contours meant digging channels into the face of sheer cliffs, or building aqueducts over deep crevices. To reach inaccessible spots, levada builders were lowered down cliffs in baskets.

Contour Lines & To prevent the water from Terracing running too fast, causing soil ero- 50 Madeira’s Top 10 51 ave paths paths get into get into is 0.5 m is 0.5 m ways paths h levada levada Landscapes of Landscapes of paths pass trees paths pass trees channel and walk and walk channel levada has both, and is is has both, and levada Vegetation Levada Water is everywhere, but Water Tunnels Carry a small light so that Vertigo Some Last Resort as a last strikes, If vertigo How Far Can You Go? You Can Far How 2,200 km are now There Footwear muddy can be both Paths Temperature It can be cold and wet Sunflower Guide Sunflower anywhere go Don’t Dimensions A typical ) ^ & * ( # $ % Top 10 Levada Tips Levada Top 10 ! @ to safety. lichen, with hair-like festooned with beautiful and and cliffs succulent ferns. it is not ﬁt to drink, so carry supplies. own your can negotiate tunnels you head. without bumping your if back Turn very steep drops. dizziness. experience you can al resort you the (1,365 miles) of from – it would to choose take three consecutive all. them months to walk and slippery, so be sure to sensible weatherproof, wear non-slip footwear. moun- higher up Madeira’s tains, and so take warm clothing.waterproof without an accurate map map without an accurate and reliable directions. Sunﬂower’s Madeira updated constantly. wide and 0.8 (one and a half ft) deep, with m (two and a half ft) wide. m (3 ft) paths 1 narrow .

. . Levada (see (see levada (see p79) Beyond the the Beyond follow the the follow will have details will have (see pp24–5) levadas Madeira Explorers. 219 Madeira Explorers. 219 walking is easiest if is easiest if walking signposted “Risco” signposted d (see p102) , starts from Rabaçal. From , starts From from Rabaçal. Rabaçal are if you A popular walk, Levada dos Tornos dos Levada can combine a You Guided Tours Levada

levada

contours of the landscape, wind- of the landscape, contours of valleys, ing in and out gradually from the descending central the island’s high peaks of ridges and terraces massif to the of the south.

) (

Waterfall, Risco Valley Risco Waterfall, * sion, most sion, most p82) to the Forest- down there, walk right along House, and turn ers’ the visiting the Paúl da Serra visiting the Paúl walk with a visit to the Quinta with walk do Ferreiro Palheiro walk 20 to 30 minutes’ After you woodland through primeval waterfall. a pretty will reach Exit the garden, turn right, and right, and Exit the garden, turn the village. up to walk signs to the look for café, House Tea and Jasmin Tornos dos lunch – an ideal spot for you join a guided tour. Madeira Madeira join a guided tour. you Meetings Explorers and Nature tourist are good companies; the board of others. 763 701 • Nature Meetings. 291 200 686 • Nature 701 763 Left Caves at São Vincente Right Parrot Park, Funchal Children’s Attractions

Grutas de São Vincente phins or whales in their natural ! These caves were created habitat, but this trip will appeal by molten rock. A cave tour, more to older children, as a simulated eruptions patient wait is not and a short ﬁlm will always met with an teach you about appearance. d Tickets Madeira’s volcanic from Marina do Funchal • Madeira’s Top 10 origins. d São Vicente, Map Q3 • Adm charge Sítio do Pé do Passo • Map E2 • 291 842 404 $ Football • Adm charge Madeira has two soccer teams, Mariti- Santa Maria de Dolphin-watching mo and Nacional; both @ Colombo play in the Portuguese There are lots of boat trips to First League. Home matches are choose from (see p48), but friendly, family occasions. d Mar- younger children will particularly itimo: Estádio dos Barreios, Rua do Dr enjoy a trip on a replica of the Pita, Funchal. Map G6 • Nacional: Choupa- Santa Maria, the ship that took na Stadium. Map H5 • Adm charge Columbus across the Atlantic. d Tickets from Marina do Funchal • Map Q3 % Twin Peaks • 291 220 327 • Trips 10:30am– 1:30pm, There is something magical 3–6pm daily; twilight cruises Jun–Sep: about emerging from the sun 7:15–8:45pm • Adm charge and looking across the peaks of Funchal from the Pico do Arieiro Dolphin-watching (see p32), Madeira’s third high- £ Few encounters with nature est peak at 1,810 metres (5,938 are as exciting as those with dol- ft). The 5-km (3-mile) round trip on foot to the top of Pico Ruivo, Madeira’s highest peak at 1,862 m (6,109 ft) (see p77), is within the capacity of ﬁt children over the age of nine.

Ribeiro Frio ^ The trout farm at Ribeiro Frio is fun for younger children, as they can get close to ﬁsh at different stages of growth. The walk from Ribeiro Frio to Balcões (see p51) is safe for children as the levada is dry, so they will not Santa Maria de Colombo get wet if they fall in. d Map H4 52 Madeira’s Top 10 53 , .

d Map Q3

d (see p44) Map B1

d (see pp18–19) Porto Santo Porto Porto free, traffic Virtually Funchal Marina Funchal Stroll around the marina to Promenade Aveni- stroll along Families Moniz Porto pools” “nature’s as Known Downtown let older can safely You Cinemas Downtown Anadia The Shopping Boat ”Beatles” Moored in concrete on Playgrounds in best playgrounds The Hotels hotel for Stay in a five-star Indulgence children, Madeirans love ) & * ( # $ Map P4 • 291 207 040 % ^ Top 10 Tips for Tips for Top 10 Families ! @ the rock pools at Port Moniz Moniz pools at Port the rock bathing in warm, are great for water. shallow Santo is a place to let your Santo is a place to let your the leash to off children or on foot. bike by explore has a two-screen cinema. spot fish, boats and pictures painted on the concrete walls visiting sailors. by snacks da do Mar and buy from Turkish-style kiosks. children wander on their own; on their own; wander children crime is almost non-existent. Centre opposite Funchal’s main market do Mar is a boat Avenida in 1966, the Beatles by owned an ice cream. a cool place for are in the grounds of Funchal Quinta Magnólia and Jardim de Santa Catarina the extra facilities, such as as such facilities, the extra games rooms, pools, tennis, TV. satellite mini-golf and will get plentyso yours of friendly attention. . , Cine-

d (see (see , where , where Map Q1

d (see p69) (see pp20–21) (see pp28–9)

is as good as a theme-park is as good as a theme-park Swimming a pool just have Toddlers Shopping are mad children If your Monte Cable Car Monte Monte cable car The Parrot Park age of your on the Depending

) ( Trout farm, Ribeiro Frio Ribeiro farm, Trout

* & with its branded fashion outlets, outlets, with its branded fashion seven-screen cafés, food fast alley. cinema and bowling made for them at Ponta Gorda in Gorda in them at Ponta made for of the the Hotel Zone, just west and older children For Club Navale. conﬁdent swimmers, the Lido in the Hotel Zone, has complex, and a big pool, sunbathing decks access to the ocean. about shopping, head for about shopping, head for Madeira Shopping children, you can either let them let them can either you children, antics of parrots the playful enjoy them in or engage and parakeets, about the ethics of a discussion in cages for wild creatures keeping While you’re human amusement. the can also explore here, you Botanical Garden p27) the João ﬂy high over ride as you Once in Monte, Valley. Gomes Tropi- the Palace can explore you cal Garden free. get in under 14 children mas Castello Lopes: 291 706 760 mas Castello Lopes: Left Madeira Carnival Right New Year Festivals

Christmas Cribs Flower Festival ! The festive year begins in $ Scarcely is Carnival over December when churches and before the floats come out again shops mount cribs with a cast of for the spring Flower Festival in traditional characters, including April. Originally created as a tour- rustic shepherds. If you visit out- ist attraction, this is a festival side Christmas, you can see that Madeirans have now taken Madeira’s Top 10 antique crib figures at the Quinta to their heart, with passionate das Cruzes and the Casa Museu competition among local clubs to Frederico de Freitas (see p38). produce the best float.

St James (São Tiago) % Funchal has its very own “village” festival on 1 May, when city dignitaries process up Rua de Santa Maria to the 18th-century Baroque Socorro church, and place their chains of office at the feet of St James (Funchal’s Flower Festival patron saint), renewing the city’s pledge to honour him for rescu- New Year Lights ing them in 1523 from the plague. @ Colourful street lights are suspended across the main Atlantic Festival streets of Funchal from early ^ Held in late May and early December, but New Year is even June, the Festival do Atlântico more spectacular, as locals open combines fireworks, street enter- their curtains and switch on their tainment and music festival. house and car lights, flooding There are performances by inter- Funchal’s amphitheatre with light. national stars as well as the Fireworks explode, ships blow accomplished local musicians of their hooters, and cars their horns. the Orquestra Clássica da Mad- eira, the Orquestra de Mandolins Carnival and the Funchal Brass Ensemble. £ Carnival is celebrated over three days before Shrove Tuesday. Assumption in Monte Schools, youth clubs and marching & The Virgin is greatly revered bands parade the streets in fancy by pious Madeirans because dress, followed by the colourful they believe she takes pity on allegorical parade that fills the human suffering. 15 August, the city on the last day. Though not as day on which she is believed to wild as Rio, this carnival is still have been assumed into heaven, an excuse to let your hair down. is observed in Monte (see p26) 54 with religious services and pro- Top 10 Festive cessions by day, and feasting, music and dancing by night. Traditions ! Street Decorations When streets are turned Ponta Delgada Madeira’s Top 10 * into tunnels of flowers, it’s a Another important religious sure sign that a festival is on festival is held in Ponta Delgada the way. (see p78) on the first Sunday in September, when pilgrims from @ Festive Greenery all over the island come to pray to Flower garlands hang from poles wrapped in branches of the Bom Jesus (“Good Jesus”), a sweet bay. figure of Christ believed to have miraculous powers. # Flags and Light Bulbs Bright white bulbs light up Wine Festival the night, and Madeira’s flag – ( a red cross on a white back- In mid September, the grape ground – is everywhere. harvest is celebrated in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, with folk $ Firecrackers music and demonstrations of Exploding firecrackers grape-crushing done the old-fash- mark the start of a village festival (or a victory by one of ioned way – with bare feet. There the local football teams). are also special wine-related menus and events. % Processions and Sermons Nossa Senhora da Before the fun begins, the ) serious bit: a religious service Piedade to honour the patron saint. The church on the hill above the beach at Prainha in eastern ^ Barbecues Madeira is locked for most of the No village festival is com- year, but on the third Sunday of plete without delicious beef kebabs, barbecued in an old September, the fishermen of oil barrel. Caniçal bring a statue of the Vir- gin by boat from their parish for & Bolo de Caco a special service, before return- The kebabs are eaten with ing to Caniçal for a party. spongy bolo de caco bread, a soft leavened flatbread, baked on top of a stone oven. * Wine Festivals are also a chance to sample local wines (and cider) that are not sold commercially. ( Wall of Hope At the Flower Festival, children make a wish and pin posies to a board in front of the town hall. ) Music and Dance Brass, accordion and wind bands, known as filarmónicas, provide the music for dancing the night away. Atlantic Festival 55 Left Wickerwork demonstration Right Boa Vista Orchids Specialist Shops

O Relógio, Camacha Patricio & Gouveia, Funchal ! Packed to the ceiling with $ Tour the embroidery factory furniture, plant pots, baskets and to learn how traditional designs lampshades, there’s scarcely are transferred from parchment room to move in this Aladdin’s to linen, before browsing the cave of wicker. If you catch one shop for blouses, tableclothes of the wickerwork demonstra- and nightgowns with the beauty Madeira’s Top 10 tions, you’ll see nimble ﬁngers of antique lace. d Rua Visconde de making the bending and weaving Anadia 34 • Map P4 • 291 220 801 of willow canes look much easier than it really is (see also p89). d % Caso do Turista, Funchal Largo da Achada • Map J5 • 291 922 114 Located in the elegant 19th- century former town house of Boa Vista Orchids, Funchal the German consul, the Tourist @ Boa Vista specialize in bright- house – which is nothing like its ly coloured bromeliads (“air name – boasts a comprehensive plants”), but also grow and sell a range of Portuguese-made silver, great range of other exotic ceramics, glassware and linen. d plants. d Rua Lombo da Boa Vista • Rua do Conselheiro José Silvestre Ribeiro Map H5 • 291 220 468 2 • Map Q2 • 291 224 907

Jardim Orquídea, Funchal Fado and Folk £ The Jardim Orquídea aims to ^ The late-night café-music of convince you that growing orchids Portuguese fado can become is not as difﬁcult as you might addictive. The best place to ﬁnd think. Visit the laboratory and the latest CDs by the superstars orchid garden, with its display of of the art – Ana Moura, Mariza, 50,000 plants. d Jardim Orquídea: 202 Mísia and Madredeus – is Valen- Marina Shopping Centre, Avenida Arriaga. tim de Carvalho, the smart CD Map Q2 • Laboratory/orchid garden: Rua shop on Funchal’s main street. d Pita da Silva 37. Map H5. 291 281 941 Marina Shopping Centre, Avenida Arriaga 73 • Map Q2 • 291 234 920

Cakes and Pastries & For delicious custard tarts (pastéis de nata) for immediate consumption, or bolo de mel (honey cake) or amêndoa torrão (almond sweetmeats) that will survive the journey home, try Penha d’Águia or A Lua. d Penha d’Águia: Rua das Murças 21. Map P3 • A Orchids Lua: Rua da Carreira 78. Map P2 56 Madeira’s Top 10 57 bolo de mel bolo de mel (translated as (translated as , but actually more like like more , but actually Thick, cable-knit hats and cable-knit hats and Thick, Another speciality is pot- Cakes Festive Flowers Colourful and long-lasting Boots and Sandals are handmade in raw These Hats Pompom Wicker Centred around Camacha, Wine and Liqueurs Madei- as fortiﬁed well As Leather bags and shoes Leather Pottery Embroidery highly regarded by Now Tapestry a close cousin of Tapestry, ) & * ( # $ % ^ Top 10 Gifts to Buy Gifts to Top 10 ! @ sweaters made from raw made from raw sweaters by are worn wool undyed off to keep farmers Madeira’s the chill. tery in Moorish designs, or cabbage leaves. shaped like once made only cake), (honey a year- at Christmas, is now round treat, made using cane nuts and fruit. sugar, a good souvenir blooms make of this garden isle. to a timeless design. leather, Madeira’s wickerworkers cre- wickerworkers Madeira’s articles. ate 1,200 different ra wine, the island produces aguardente “rum” speciality. are a Portuguese couturiers, Madeiran Madeiran couturiers, embroidery had unlikely startedwas by beginnings; it to Phelps in 1844 Bella during a slump work provide in the wine trade. embroidery, has been produced on the island since the for are available Kits 1890s. amateur enthusiasts. liqueurs. brandy) and fruit ,

(see pp8–9) Workshop: Rua do Rua Workshop: d Rua das Murças 26A, das Murças 26A, Rua , or see them , or see them d

Literally no more than a hole Literally no more than a hole Books Barros e Abreu, Funchal Abreu, e Barros leather ankle traditional The Leather Goods Leather leather are fashionable There

Livraria Pátio: Rua da Carreira 43. Map 43. da Carreira Rua Livraria Pátio:

d ) ( Bootmaker at Barros e Abreu e Barros at Bootmaker * P2. 224 490 • Livraria Esperança: Rua dos P2. 224 490 • Livraria Esperança: Rua N3. 291 221 116 Map 119. Ferreiros in the wall, Funchal’s Livraria Livraria Funchal’s in the wall, of books has a good stock Pátio on the history, and wild- culture of Madeira, including anti- life Another Funchal quarian rarities. bookshop selling most books on Madeira in print is the charmingly Livraria Esperança. old-fashioned boots made by Barros e Abreu Abreu e Barros boots made by Irmãos are surprisingly comfort- their beautiful able, but unlike and timeless leather sandals, look out of place back may they them from the stall home. Buy in the Mercado dos Lavradores (see pp18–19) in being made at the workshop Velha. the Zona shops aplenty in the narrow shops aplenty in the narrow lie north and south streets that cathedral of Funchal but a factory outlet called Pele but a factoryPele outlet called the best has some of Leather offer, leather goods on value range of with an extensive clothing, wallets, leather bags, to luggage and briefcases from. choose

Funchal • Map P3 • 291 223 619 Funchal Portão de São Tiago 23 • Map Q5 de São Portão Left Adegas de São Francisco Right Diogos Wine Shop Wine Outlets

Adegas de São Francisco, Artur de Barros e Sousa, ! Funchal $ Funchal The St Francis Wine Lodge offers Known as ABS, this is one of free tastings and 30-minute Madeira’s smallest producers; so tours of its attics. For more in- small, in fact, that the brothers depth information, take a special who run it sell only to “friends” Vintage Tour (see pp12–13). – fortunately, this includes anyone Madeira’s Top 10 who walks through the door. d Rua Diogos Wine Shop, dos Ferreiros 109 • Map N3 • 291 220 622 @ Funchal This friendly wine shop has a surprise in the basement – a Christopher Columbus museum, put together by Mário Barbeito, founder of the Barbeito wine company in 1946. It also has a display of antique postcards and books about Madeira. d Avenida Wine barrels, Artur de Barros e Sousa Arriaga 48 • Map P2 • 291 233 357 D’Oliveiras, Funchal Vinhos Barbeito, Funchal % Housed in a charming timber £ Founded by Sr Barbeito, this barn with a cobblestone ﬂoor wine lodge, with its distinctive and a carved stone door that chimney for the estufa, the “hot- bears the city’s coat of arms and house” that ages the wine, is the date AD 1619, this wine tucked away behind Reid’s lodge offers vintages going back Palace Hotel. The tasting room is to 1850, as well as younger at the rear, beyond the giant, wines, miniatures and gift boxes. iron-hooped barrels of American d Rua dos Ferreiros 107 • Map N3 oak and satinwood. d Estrada Mon- • 291 220 784 umental 145 • Map H6 • 291 761 829 Loja dos Vinhos, Funchal ^ Conveniently located in the heart of the hotel district, and open late for last-minute gift pur- chases, this wine shop sells the vintages of all of Madeira’s main producers, including some rare bottles that date from the 19th century. They will also take telephone orders and make hotel deliveries. d Edifício Eden Mar, Loja 19, Inspecting for sediment, Vinhos Barbeito Rua do Gorgulho • Map G6 • 291 762 869 58 In 1925, the Adegas de São Francisco became the headquarters of the recently formed Madeira Wine Company. Madeira’s Top 10 59

estufa grapes. estuf- grapes. They They grapes. and with an average age age and with an average tinta negra mole Vintage Wines Vintage ﬁnest Madeira, aged The Canteiro is “Canteiro” term The Reserve A blend of wines made by Special Reserve A blend of wines aged in Malmsey/Malvasia and sweetest richest The Medium Dry and Dry, Medium Sweet Estufagem process of ageing the The Sercial of the tradition- driest The Verdelho medium dryA tawny, wine Bual/Boal wine ideal dessert A nutty ) lack the depth of real Madeira. the lack & * ( $ % Wines with these names are made from old, and three years tinta negra mole ^ Top 10 Madeiran Madeiran Top 10 Terms Wine ! @ # for a minimum of 20 years in in a minimum of 20 years for casks and a further two years in the bottle. (hothouse), or of heating the (hothouse), or of heating the wine in tanks it age to make second meth- The faster. even results. od yields inferior used to distinguish quality method wines and is a slow of ageing Madeira in casks the sun. by heated naturally the two methods of agem Made mostly years. of ﬁve with They about ten years. casks for are usually made with the noble (1–4 above). grape varieties Madeira wine, best for after- Madeira wine, best for dinner drinking. in an wine in casks kept al Madeira wines – excellent – excellent al Madeira wines or with soup. as an aperitif drinking with food. good for or puddings. with cheese See p13

ave Estrada Santa

Map K5

d d Galerias Jardins da Galerias Jardins

Achada do Gramacho • Map H2 do Gramacho Achada For more on Madeira wine For

d Airport Shop, Funchal Funchal Shop, Airport Airport Lagar d’Ajuda, Funchal d’Ajuda, Lagar timbered shop heavily This Quinta do Furão, Santana Quinta do Furão, hotel, restaurant This and Henriques & Henriques, & Henriques, Henriques Lobos de Câmara

If you suddenly decide you sim- decide you suddenly If you ply cannot go home without a or two of Madeira, the bottle Wine has a Company Madeira duty-free shop at the airport, and 3-, 5-, 10- can buy where you as a wines, as well 15-year-old selection of single-grape, single- harvest vintage wines that are old. 20 years over ) (

* & the ﬁrm of in 1850, Founded Henriques has won Henriques & in and awards a string of medals to its attempts for recent years dispel the fustyMadei- image of a younger win back ra wine and h end, they this To clientele. introduced stylish modern labels introduced stylish labels modern retain- designs, while and bottle of the ing the traditional qualities wines themselves.

set around an antique wine press set around an antique wine press of stock has a comprehensive and Portuguese ports, sherries as regional wines, as well Madeira from a range of island producers. wine shop belonging to the the wine shop belonging to is set Wine Company Madeira near vineyards amid extensive Santana, north of the in the trails can follow Visitors island. and help through the vineyards, with the harvest during late (even summer and early autumn treading grapes the old-fashioned way). • 291 570 100 • 291 771 551 Ajuda, Estrada Monumental • Map G6 Clara 10 • Map F6 • 291 941 551 Clara 10 Left Villa Cipriani Right Xôpana at the Choupana Hills Resort Restaurants Les Faunes, Funchal Armada, Funchal ! Reid’s flagship restaurant $ The ethnic theme of the deserves all its accolades for Royal Savoy continues in the consistently creative cooking and main restaurant. Try coconut polished old-world service. A prawns, five-spice beef, or duck special-occasion restaurant with with ginger. Dress code: smart romantic bay views. Dress code: casual. d Royal Savoy Hotel, Rua Car- Madeira’s Top 10 formal. d Reid’s Palace Hotel, Estrada valho Araújo • Map H6 • 291 213 500 • Monumental • Map H6 • 291 71 71 71 • Closed L daily, Sun–Mon • €€€€ Closed L daily, Mon, & Jun–Sep • €€€€€ Quinta da Casa Branca, Villa Cipriani, Funchal % Funchal @ Named after Arrigo “Harry” This gourmet restaurant in the Cipriani and the Cipriani Hotel in 18th-century gate-house of the Venice, this elegant restaurant is modern Quinta da Casa Branca owned by Reid and has wonder- hotel offers such delights as car- ful sea views and a compact paccio of octopus with tomato, menu of Italian classics. Dress and hazelnut-and-partridge salad code: smart casual. d Estrada Mon- with chocolate vinaigrette. Dress umental • Map H6 • 291 71 71 71 • €€€€ code: smart casual. d Rua da Casa Branca 7 • Map G6 • 291 700 770 • €€€ Fleur de Lys, Funchal £ French classics as well as Quinta do Monte, Monte modern dishes such as grilled ^ The furnishings may be tradi- scallop salad with leek confit and tional, but there’s nothing old- truffle vinaigrette. Dress code: fashioned about the menu. Try formal. d Savoy Classic Hotel, Avenida the salad of sautéed duck liver do Infante • Map H6 • 291 213 000 • with a glass of dry Sercial wine. Closed L daily, Sun–Mon • €€€€€ Dress code: smart casual. d Cam- inho do Monte 192 • Map H5 • 291 780 100 • €€€

Brasserie, & Funchal Funchal’s smart set have adopted this as their canteen, enjoying such dishes as sea bass on olive potato purée. Dress code: smart casual. d Prome- nade do Lido • Map G6 • Brasserie 291 763 325 • €€€ 60 For a guide to restaurant price ranges See p71 Casa Velha do Palheiro, Top 10 Madeiran * São Gonçalo The seven-course gourmet menu Dishes at this former hunting lodge, built ! Caldo Verde “Green soup”, made with in 1804 by the Count of Carval- Madeira’s Top 10 hal, gathers inspiration from far shredded kale, potatoes and onions, topped with sausage. and wide. Roast pigeon “Apicius” owes its origins to the ancient @ Açorda Roman cookery writer; gin-and- Soup flavoured with garlic tonic sorbet is a witty reference and coriander, made with to the country-house lifestyle; bread and golden olive oil, topped off with a poached egg. salad of fresh scallops and foie gras is simply delicious. Dress # Espetada code: formal. d Rua da Estalagem 23 Herb-flavoured barbecued • Map H6 • 291 790 350 • €€€€€ beef, sometimes served on skewers that hang from a frame by your table. $ Milho Frito Deep-fried maize (like Ital- ian polenta), traditionally served with espetada, though fries are now more common. % Lapas Limpets, plucked from Madeira’s rocky shores and grilled with garlic butter. Casa Velha do Palheiro ^ Bolo de Caco Madeiran leavened flat- Xôpana at the Choupana bread, baked on top of the ( Hills Resort, Funchal oven and served plain or with Designed by Didier Lefort using garlic and herb butter. Asian antiques, the Xôpana is a & Espada feast for the eyes as well as the Scabbard fish, a succulent taste buds. Casual diners can and (usually) boneless white enjoy a perfect beefburger, while fish, traditionally served grilled gourmets can choose creative with fried banana. dishes. Dress code: smart casu- * Prego al. d Travessa do Largo da Choupana • Delicious Madeiran fast Map H5 • 291 206 020 • €€€ food – grilled steak in a bread bun (prego special has ham ) Boca do Cais, Funchal and/or cheese as well). This modern poolside restau- ( Pargo rant at the Hotel Tivoli Ocean Locally caught sea bream, Park serves gourmet food with- delicious and nutritious simply out the high price tag that is usu- grilled with olive oil. ally attached to such dishes as ) Bacalhau fennel soup with smoked salm- Dried salted cod – very on, sautéed duck breast and traditional, but an acquired quail, or Madeiran bouillabaisse. taste, served in many ways Dress code: smart casual. d Rua including with potatoes and egg, or casseroled with toma- Simplício dos Passos Gouveia • Map G6 • toes and onion. 291 702 000 • Closed L daily, Sun • €€€ For more restaurant listings See pp71, 79, 85, 91, 99 61

AROUND MADEIRA

Funchal

64–71 MADEIRA’S TOP 10 Central Madeira 74–79 Western Madeira 80–85 Eastern Madeira 86–91 Porto Santo 94–99 Left Funchal University courtyard Right Fortaleza de São Tiago Funchal OUNDED IN 1425, FUNCHAL WAS GRANTED CITY STATUS IN 1508. As it Fapproaches its 500th anniversary, many of its finest historical buildings are still intact, despite fire, piracy and earthquake. Named Funchal (“fennel”) because of the wild fennel plants found growing in abundance by the first settlers, Madeira’s capital sits on the island’s southern coast in a natural Around Funchal amphitheatre, hemmed in by cliffs to the east and west, and steep green mountains to the north. Its streets are paved with black-and-white mosaics, and lined by blue-flowered jacaranda trees. Numerous public parks and private gardens make this a festive city of heady scents and colours, where architecture and nature are delightfully combined.

Sights

1 Zona Velha 2 Carmo Quarter 3 Cathedral Quarter 4 Around the Town Hall 5 University Quarter 6 Around Avenida Arriaga 7 Rua da Carreira 8 São Pedro and Santa Clara 9 Hotel Zone 0 Seafront and Marina View across Funchal to the mountains beyond

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64 Preceding pages Funchal’s Câmara Municipal (Town Hall), set at the eastern end of the Praça do Município Around Funchal 65

. were were

away (see (see Map N2 , and some , and some d Map P3 and the and the Map P3 d d . , and the Cus- (see p43) (see p42) , the huge and , the huge and (see p58) and the Alfândega Alfândega and the (see p42) p40) ornately decorated whose church Jesuit build- ancient school recently ings have been restored to form the main campus of the main campus of (see p38)

University Quarter University Animated saints dance (see pp10–11) (Museum of Sacred Art) (Museum of Sacred % Around the Town Hall Town the Around the Chic clothing shops line Cathedral Quarter Cathedral Columbus Christopher When and gesticulate from niches and gesticulate from niches in the façade of the marvel-in the façade lous Igreja do Colégio now the Museu de Arte Sacra Arte Sacra de the Museu now $ £ narrow pedestrian streets that streets that pedestrian narrow the up in a grid from stretch and one cathedral to the city’s its foun- only open square, with sellers, and its tain, its flower paving. fish-scale-patterned the square is the grace- Framing Câmara Municipal ful Baroque Hall) (Town Palace, arcaded Bishop’s pretty, came to stay with his friend João with his friend João came to stay the cathedral 1498, Esmeraldo in (see pp8–9) (Customs House) Esmeraldo’s still being built. been trans- home has since into the City of Sugar formed Museum toms House, a short step from the sociable pavement the cathedral, surrounding cafés regional has become Madeira’s parliament building. Exploring the six city blocks to to Exploring the six city blocks the north and on either side of will find old- the campus, you bookshops, cobbled fashioned wine lodges Madeira University oldest and most of Funchal’s houses. ornate tower

outside Town Hall outside Town Leda and the Swan, (see (see

, where , where is a warren is a warren (see p39) Map N4 d . Map P5 d . (see p43) (see p68)

. Today, restaurants . Today, (see p42)

and the covered market and the covered Carmo Quarter Carmo Quarter lies Carmo The Zona Velha the first city was Funchal @ Rua Santa Maria, Zona Velha Zona Rua Santa Maria, ! between two of the between two of the that flow three rivers from mountain to sea they As through Funchal. pass through the city, are their deep channels with purple overhung Linking and red bougainvillea. Carmo Church, the 17th-century Museum the Franco and IBTAM streets, with fine of narrow the House of the buildings like Consuls (see p68) cluster around the Capela do Corpo Santo fishermen and shipbuilders A once had their homes. seafront promenade and park to the Town link the Old Monte cable car station p52) since Roman times to be built by times to be built by since Roman Europeans outside of Europe, is Town) (Old Velha and the Zona original set- The where it began. the protected by tlement was the Tiago, now de São Fortaleza Museum of ContemporaryArt (see pp18–19) the Toyota showroom with its tiled exterior (see p43), the theatre (see p70) and its chic café, and several good shopping arcades (see p69). d Map P2

Rua da Carreira & A stroll down Rua da Carreira reminds you why Funchal was once known as “Little Lisbon”. The São Pedro Church elegant buildings of this bustling street, with their Around Funchal Around Avenida Arriaga green shutters and ornamental ^ Wide and leafy Avenida iron balconies hung with plants, Arriaga is lined with some of are a taste of the Portuguese Funchal’s most capital. At No. 43, the prestigious public Vicentes Museum (see buildings. They include p38), with its belle the offices of the regional époque staircase, sets government, the the theme. At the imposing Bank of western end, a pretty Portugal building (see casa de prazer (garden p43), the St Francis Wine gazebo) sits on the corner Lodge (see p58), the of Rua do Quebra Costas, tourist office and its next- the street that leads to door art gallery, and the the secluded gardens of flower-filled São the Igreja Inglesa Francisco Gardens on Detail of Fortaleza de (English Church) (see the north side. On the São Tiago p42). d Map P2 south side is the huge São Lourenço fortress with its São Pedro and Santa battlemented walls (see p68), * Clara The streets north of Rua da Carreira have some of Funchal’s Calçada Pavements best museums. The Museu The pavements and squares of Municipal (see p38) in Rua Funchal are works of art. Blocks of dove-grey basalt and creamy Mouraria has a pretty herb limestone are laid in mosaic garden next to it, and the church patterns of great intricacy and of São Pedro (see p40) is lined beauty, from the fish-scale with 17th-century tiles. The steep pattern of the Town Hall square to Calçada de Santa Clara leads to the heraldic patterns and floral the Freitas Museum (see p38), motifs along Avenida Arriaga. Santa Clara Convent (see There are even complete pictures pp16–17) and the Quinta das along Rua João Tavira, north of the cathedral, depicting the city’s Cruzes Museum (see pp14–15). coat of arms, a wine carrier and If you have energy left, keep on the ship that brought Zarco up to the Fortaleza do Pico (see p15) to Madeira. (“Peak Fortress”) (see p68) for panoramic views. d Map N2 66 Hotel Zone A Day in Old Funchal ( West of the city, you can stroll through a succession of Morning parks (see p44) and enjoy the A visit to the cathedral

varied architecture of the Art will introduce you to the Around Funchal Deco mansions from the 1920s two main styles of Madei- and 1930s lining the Avenida do ran church architecture: 16th-century Gothic and Infante. As the road crosses the 18th-century Baroque. ravine of the Ribeira Seco (“Dry River”) and curves past Reid’s Walk three blocks north to Palace, the island’s most prestig- the Sacred Art Museum, ious hotel (see p112), mansions where the island’s ﬁnest works of art demonstrate give way to big hotels which how rich Madeira became march along the clifftops above when it was Europe’s main the city, interspersed with shop- source of sugar. ping centres and restaurants. Enjoy Funchal’s laid-back d Map Q1 café life in one of the pavement cafés on Praça Seafront and Marina do Município. ) Everything in Funchal looks out to the sparkling sea and Follow Rua C Pestana and bustling harbour, where private Rua da Carreira westward out of the square to enjoy yachts, container ships and the lace-like balconies that cruise ships on transatlantic decorate the upper voyages call in. A stroll along storeys; allow half an hour Avenida do Mar allows you to to see the ceramic tile soak up the sunshine, sample collection at the Freitas Museum before it closes coffee and cakes at the onion- at 12:30pm. domed kiosks along the seafront, or wander out along the marina Afternoon walls for a different view of the Take your pick of the res- city. d Map Q3 taurants along Rua da Carreira for a leisurely lunch, or head in the direc- tion of the market and explore the Zona Velha.

Returning to Calçada de Santa Clara around 2pm, visit the shady gardens and art-ﬁlled rooms of the Quinta das Cruzes; then take a guided tour of Santa Clara Convent.

Wind down after a day of culture by taking the 4:30pm tour of the St Francis Wine Lodge – the oldest on Madeira.

Finish the day with a stroll along Avenida do Mar, or enjoy the harbour view from Santa Catarina Park. Funchal Marina Funchal is best explored between Tuesday and Friday. Churches and 67 museums are closed during lunch, but shops and cafés stay open. Left Cemitério Britânico Best of the Rest

Museu de Arte Cemitério Britânico ! Contemporânea ^ Protestants of all nations are The 17th-century Fortaleza de buried in this garden-like cemetery São Tiago makes a superb set- whose ancient headstones tell ting for late 20th-century works many a poignant story. d Rua da Car- of art. d Rua do Portão de São Tiago • reira 331 • Map P1 • 9:30am–12:30pm, Around Funchal Map Q6 • 291 213 340 • 10am– 12:30pm, 2–5pm Mon–Fri (ring bell at gate) • Free 2–5:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm charge Fortaleza do Pico Museu de Electricidade & The stiff uphill walk to the 17th- @ “Casa da Luz” century Peak Fortress is rewarded This former power station shows by sweeping views and a one- what heroic efforts were needed room museum on the history of to bring electricity to the island. Funchal’s defences. d Rua do Forte d Rua da Casa da Luz 2 • Map P4 • 291 • Map N1 • 9am–6pm Mon–Sat • Free 211 480 • 10am–12:30pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sat • Adm charge Lido Promenade * A new seafront promenade Núcleo Museológico do follows the clifftops west of the £ Bordado city from the Lido to Praia For- The history of embroidery, tap- mosa, with landscaped gardens estry and handicrafts on Madei- and ever-changing views. d Rua ra, with an introduction to the Gorgulho • Map G6 island’s colourful costumes. For- merly known as IBTAM. d Rua do ( Museu do Brinquedo (Toy Visconde do Anadia 44 • Map N4 • 291 Museum) 223 141 • 10am– 12:30pm, 2–5:30pm From 19th-century china dolls to Mon–Fri • Adm charge 1980s plastic Barbies, over 100 years of toy history, with a huge Museu do Instituto do collection of miniature cars. There $ Vinho da Madeira is a restaurant on the ground Displays on wine production in ﬂoor. d Rua da Levada dos Barreiros 48 the house of the Napoleonic-era • Map G6 • 919 922 722 • 2–6pm Mon, British consul Henry Veitch. d Rua 10am–6pm Tue–Sat • Adm charge 5 de Outubro 78 • Map N3 • 291 204 600 • 9am–6pm Mon–Fri • Free Museu Barbeito Cristóvão ) Colombo Palácio de São Lourenço One man’s passion for Columbus % The historic fortress has dis- led to this collection of historic plays on the pirate Bertrand de books, engravings and portraits. Montluc (see p31). d Avenida Zarco d Avenida Arriaga 48 • Map P2 • 291 233 • Map P3 • 9:30am–noon, 2–5:30pm Tue– 357 • 9:30am–1pm, 3–6pm Mon–Sat Sat (closed Sat pm) • Free (closed Sat pm) • Adm charge 68 Around Funchal 69 Largo do d Map P3 d Avenida Arriaga Arriaga 75 Avenida d Map P4 Rua da Mouraria and Rua de da Mouraria and Rua Rua d d Bazar do Povo Opposite the cathedral, Fun- Ornelas Fernão Rua Dr. main shopping Funchal’s Rua das Murças city- Come to this narrow Antiques Quarter Shops selling contemporary Marina Shopping Centre Marina with ﬂoors packed Three Embroidery at Bazar Oliveiras Embroidery ( ) & * ^ chal’s oldest department store department store oldest chal’s maintained has been well over up to its and lives the years by Bazaar”) name (“People’s everything from DVDs stocking to religious statues. mix of chic street is a wonderful cheek-by-jowl boutiques sitting and with grocers selling coffee pungent salt cod. Most shops and afternoon close on Saturday Sunday. centre street for keenly priced priced keenly centre street for (No. Oliveiras Bazar shops like embroidery, 6), selling leather, tapestry, and all kinds of Madei- Most shops open ran souvenirs. daily. 10am–8pm art or old maps and engravings, and mirrors chandeliers, chests, and Chinese spice jars, furniture clocks. every kind of shop, from surf surf every kind of shop, from chic clothing to books, and from shoes and bags to antique postcards. Right São Pedro • Map P2, N2 São Pedro • Map Q2 Chafariz/Rua do Aljube • Map P3 do Chafariz/Rua Avenida Avenida d Caminho de Rua do Con- Rua d Rua de São Rua d d (see pp18–19).

Places to Shop Places The cobbled yard where where yard cobbled The Arcadas de São Francisco Arcadas Galerias São Lourenço Galerias most upmarket At Funchal’s Casa do Turista Casa do All the elegance of a bygone Madeira Shopping Madeira Madeira Shopping provides Make it a daily habit while in it a daily habit while in Make Mercado dos Lavradores Mercado

Cabbage leaf plate, Casa do Turista Turista Casa do leaf plate, Cabbage

$ £

@ ! Left

wine barrels were once made for once made for were wine barrels Wine is Lodge the São Francisco selling top-brand a mall now ethnic-inspired furnish- fashions, ings and jewellery. shopping mall you will ﬁnd will ﬁnd shopping mall you everything from sunglasses and clothes to elegant children’s and tableware. kitchen- era: Madeiran and mainland Por- ceramics, silver textiles, tuguese in a displayed and glassware stately house. town retail therapy for shopaholics: shopaholics: retail for therapy over top European brands, and stores in one mall. Follow 100 exit signs from the São Martinho or take the Rapida, Via of the only) bus (weekdays free shuttle from the hotel zone. Funchal to visit the market and and the market to visit Funchal picnic ingredients or shop for the or simply savour souvenirs, colourful bustle

Francisco 20 • Map P2 Francisco

the Teatro Municipal) • Map Q2 Teatro the selheiro José Silvestre Ribeiro 2 (below Ribeiro 2 (below Silvestre selheiro José

Santa Quitéria 45, Santo António • Map G5 Santa Quitéria 45, Santo Arriaga 41 • Map P2 Arriaga Left Casino da Madeira Right Teatro Municipal Nights Out The Evening Stroll Discoteca Vespas ! Do as Madeirans do and ^ Three resident DJs, an inter- come out for the evening pas- national mix of pop and rock, seio along the seafront, grazing top-quality sound, spectacular on sweet pastries from the stalls laser, and youthful atmosphere. along Avenida do Mar. d Map Q3 d Avenida Sá Carneiro 7 (opposite the Around Funchal container port) • Map Q2 • 291 234 800 Teatro Municipal @ The resplendent theatre O’Farol (built 1888) hosts music recitals, & Golden oldies and popular contemporary dance, drama chart hits have made “The Light- (usually in Portuguese) and art- house” a favourite disco for house movies. Look for bill- those who are too old for Vespas, boards outside the theatre. d but still like to dance the night Avenida Arriaga • Map P2 • 291 220 416 away. d Pestana Carlton Hotel, Largo António Nobre • Map H6 • 291 239 500 Café do Teatro £ The romantic night-time Marcelino Pão e Vinho haunt of Funchal’s smart set, this * One voice, two guitars, per- small but sophisticated café, in a haps an accordion – Portugal’s palm-shaded courtyard beside fado music (meaning “fate”) is the theatre, offers cocktails, chat poetic and bittersweet. This late- and occasional DJs. d Avenida Arria- night wine bar is Funchal’s most ga 40 • Map P2 • 291 226 371 authentic venue. d Travessa da Torre 22A • Map P5 • 291 220 216 Casino da Madeira $ As well as playing slot Folk Music and Dance machines, roulette and blackjack, ( Madeira’s charamba was you can also come here for live sung to ease the daily grind. Rov- music in the Copacabana Bar, or ing bands of musicians and danc- the dinner shows on Wednesday, ers visit the Marina Terrace on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Avenida do Mar most evenings – d Avenida do Infante (in the grounds of alternatively, you can book a show the Pestana Casino Park Hotel) • Map H6 at the Cliff Bay Resort Hotel. • 291 209 180 d Cliff Bay: Estrada Monumental 147 • Map G6 • 291 707 707 Chameleon Music Bar % Funchal’s night owls dance Classical Concerts their cares away at the friendli- ) Funchal’s Mandoline Orches- est disco-bar in town, with resi- tra, the Orquestra Clássica de dent DJ and live band on Madeira, and the Brass Ensemble Wednesdays. d Rua Carvalho Araújo perform several times a month. • Map H6 • 291 228 038 See posters on Avenida Arriaga. 70 Around Funchal 71 wave ice cream ice cream Rua Ponta da Ponta Rua € under €15 under €15–€25 € €€ €25–€40 €€€ €40–€60 €€€€ €€€€€ €60 over d , but avoid the the , but avoid qulfi Promenade do Lido Promenade d Rua Imperatriz Dona Rua d Rua Ponta da Cruz (western (western da Cruz Ponta Rua Edificio Infante Dom Henrique Dom Edificio Infante (black-bean stew). Some Some stew). (black-bean (grilled rump of beef) and of beef) and (grilled rump d d avoy. avoy. O Barqueiro Arguably the best and most Brasserie furniture black Its red walls, Taj Mahal Taj fish tandoori prawn, king Try Doca do Cavacas bar is beachside rustic This É pra Picanha É pra as Brazilian specialities such Price Categories Price For a three course a three course For with half one meal for of wine (or a bottle meal), taxes equivalent charges. and extra ( ) & * ^ at this stylishIndian restaurant set in a glass conservatory behind the S varied fish restaurant fish varied on Madei- try choice, spoilt for ra. If you’re the “tasting menu” lobster. over-priced and white napery spell sophisti- cooking is new- The cation. of vege- a choice There’s Italian. tarian dishes. tikka massala and freshly caught fish for renowned served to the sound of crashing waves. picanha feijoada local scabbard fish and seafood; fish is servedwith a passion fruit sauce. 206, Avenida do Infante • Map H6 • 291 • Map H6 do Infante Avenida 206, €€ 282 257 • Closed Sat L, Sun • end of Estrada Monumental) • Map G6 • 057 • €€ 291 762 Amélia 119 • Map H6 • 291 228 038 • €€ Amélia 119 (Hotel Zone, below Hotel Tivoli) • Map G6 Tivoli) Hotel (Hotel Zone, below L • €€€ Tue 325 • Closed Mon, • 291 763 Cruz (western end of Estrada Monumen- (western Cruz 226 • €€€ tal) • Map G6 • 291 765 Estrada d (traditional (traditional Rua Dom Rua d Rua da Santa Rua fado d Cais da Cidade Marina d of beef, chicken and and chicken of beef,

Places to Eat Places Marina Terrace Marina One of a cluster of open-air Arco Velho Arco pavement Among the many Eatwell restaurant small This belongs Arsénio’s Listen to live It’s worth the short taxi worth ride It’s Zarco’s

Rua Dr. Pita 23a • Map G6 • 291 764 Pita 23a • Map G6 • 291 764 Dr. Rua

% $ d £

@ ! Eatwell 020 (closed during catering events) • €€€ 020 (closed during catering events) seafood restaurants set around restaurantsseafood set around the marina. cafés of the Zona Velha (Old (Old Velha of the Zona cafés stands out Velho Arco the Town), a plate of grilled Try value. for sardines and salad, with a glass of local white wine. to a catering school which means means which to a catering school that dishes and service a are of standard usually cost that would presented starters Well more. breasts include salads and duck ﬁre. wood grilled on a eucalyptus Portuguese café music) every music) every café Portuguese on night at 8pm while dining in the Zona succulent kebabs Town). (Old Velha to sit on a terrace with a classic with a classic to sit on a terrace Harbour of Funchal view westerly while dining on classic Madeiran espetadas ﬁsh from the open grill.

do Funchal • Map Q3 • 291 230 547 • €€€ do Funchal

Maria 169 • Map P5 • 291 224 007 • €€€ • Map P5 • 291 224 007 Maria 169 Carlos I 42 • Map P5 • 291 225 683 • €

Map H6 • 291 795 599 • €€ Conde Carvalhal 136A, São Gonçalo • Conde Carvalhal 136A,

Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro (Blandy’s Gardens) Central Madeira ENTRAL MADEIRA CONSISTS ALMOST ENTIRELY of high volcanic peaks Cand deep ravines. To experience this scenic grandeur to the full you really do have to walk, but thanks to some well-placed miradouros (scenic viewing points), you can come away with some memorable photographs and gain a sense of the immense visual appeal of the central mountain range even when travelling by road. Between the north and the south there are great contrasts. Soaked in sunshine, the southern slopes Around Central Madeira are densely populated, with red- tiled farmhouses lost in a sea of vines and bananas. The northern slopes are densely wooded; along the coastal strip, tiny terraces cling to the steep valley sides making a colourful patchwork of many different hues of green. Câmara de Lobos 6DQWDQD $FKDGD Sights GR0DUTXHV )DLDO $FKDGD (5 1 GD0DGHLUD Monte 4XHLPDGDV 0RLQKRV 2 Quinta do Palheiro 6¤R5RTXHGR)DLDO Ferreiro 3LFR 3 5XLYR Jardim Botânico (5 (5 (5 4 Câmara de Lobos )DM¤GRV &DUGRV 5 Cabo Girão 3LFRGR 5LEHLUR)ULR $ULHLUR 6 (5 Curral das Freiras &DVDV3U´[LPDV &XUUDO (5 (5 7 GDV)UHLUDV Pico do Arieiro 6HDUD9HOKD 8 Ribeiro Frio

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74 Preceding pages Step-like terraces cut into a hillside near São Vicente, Western Madeira Around Central Madeira 75

(see (see espada Map F6 • d Map E5 • No bus d from Caldeira from Caldeira (“wolves”) in the the in (“wolves”) lobos , a rock platform created created platform , a rock fajã . This is now used as an as an used now is This . Cabo Girão highest sea cliff, Madeira’s Câmara de Lobos de Câmara The (teleférico) % $ when part of the cliff face fell fell face when part of the cliff into the sea millennia ago. Local crops here in cultivate farmers a clos- want If you neat terraces. can take the cable er look, you car side of on the western Rancho, to the down Câmara de Lobos, base of the cliff. name of this pretty village refer refer village pretty name of this seals that once to the monk beach on the pebbly basked p46) where tradi- open-air boatyard, repaired or given are tional craft of blue, red and yel- a fresh coat stripes. paint, laid on in bold low among the noisy bars is Down where Chapel, the Fishermen’s the safe thanks for villagers give a long of their men after return night at sea, fishing for the ocean, above 580m (1,903 ft) also claims to be the second but opin- highest in the world, the location of over ions differ Norway, the highest: some say or Ireland. others the Orkneys point perched the viewing From down gaze on the summit, you to a (scabbard fish), most of which which (scabbard fish), most of ends up on the tables of Madei- restaurants. many ra’s Jardim Botânico (Botanical Gardens) Jardim All Rodoeste buses call here buses call All Rodoeste . . . (see pp26–7) (see pp24–5)

(see pp20–21) Jardim Botânico Jardim Come here to satisfy Quinta do Palheiro Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro Monte from Fun- the cable car Take

£ @ a period spent in exile to Thanks in England during the early 19th of this century, the ﬁrst owner estate, the Count of Carvalhal, of meadows, a love developed streams, and laid the and woods var- richly today’s for foundations ied garden Monte cable car Monte ! your curiosity about the curiosityyour about the names and origins of all trees, palms, the ﬂowering succulents and scented every- climbers that grow where in Madeira – in front gardens, in public parks and along country roads chal’s Zona Velha up to Monte, up to Monte, Velha Zona chal’s will sail 600 m (1,968 ft) and you of Madeira up the southern face to a place that seems more gar- vet- den than village, shaded by by eran trees and watered springs natural View of Curral das Freiras

Curral das Freiras Ribeiro Frio ^ A new road-tunnel now links * The “Cold River” of this val- the valley village of Curral das ley clearing tumbles down the Around Central Madeira Freiras with the wider world, but mountainside to bring clear for breathtaking views, travel water to a trout farm set in a along the old road via Eira do pretty garden planted with Serrado. By taking this route, Madeira’s native ﬂowers. Some you will also gain a sense of just of the trout inevitably end up on how isolated this community the menu of the Restaurante once was (see pp30–31). Ribeiro Frio opposite, a good place to begin or end a short Pico do Arieiro walk along the dry levada to Bal- & In the colourful landscape of cões (see p51). A longer walk to Madeira’s third highest peak you Portela starts just below the res- can read the story of the volcan- taurant; you need a map and ic forces that created the island, guidebook to do the whole route, and the elemental battles but you can enjoy splendid views between wind, rock and rain that of the dense green forest by eroded it into jagged peaks and sampling the ﬁrst stretch. d Map plunging ravines (see pp32–3). H4 • São Roque de Faial bus 132

Santana A-framed Houses ( Santana has Madeira’s best The colourful A-framed houses of the Santana district were probably examples of the traditional tim- introduced by early settlers from the farming districts of central Portugal. Today they are used as houses, or as cattle byres. On an island of precipitous slopes, cattle can easily fall if left to graze free- ly, so they are kept in the cool shade of the thatched palheiros, to which their owners carry stacks of freshly cut grass and foliage at intervals during the day. A-framed houses, Santana 76 The weather on Pico do Arieiro is often clearest in the ﬁrst part of the morning and in the evening, so plan your walk accordingly. Around Central Madeira 77 .

. If . If , or , or Faial levada by 10am 10am by Pico do Pico do . Santana Restaurante Restaurante (see p79) to visit the to visit the

Monte Penha de Águia de Penha . A 20-minute . (If it’s too cloudy, too cloudy, . (If it’s If you’re not already in San- If you’re there; way tana, your make are the the main attractions traditional triangular hous- signs to follow es. Next, Teleféri- do Navio the Rocha will find a co, and you to cable car and footpath beach Santana’s into head west Now Two “balconies” along the “balconies” along the Two memorable you give way of views In Faial (“Eagle Rock”). there are numerous itself, signposted walks. staying in Fun- If you’re route back the fastest chal, signs to is to follow through a long Machico that links up at the tunnel southern end with the air- to the city. port road back Starting in first stop at the latest, your of is the summit Arieiro the reverse; do the trip in on.) clear later may weather descend to Afterward, Frio Ribeiro the and enjoy trout farm in Madeiran flowers native gardens. the surrounding past the downhill Walk shop, and take the continue on to to bring your prefer you there are picnic food, own tables around Ribeiro Frio. path signposted left to to path signposted left Balcões stroll through woodland in to a cutting brings you with wonderful the rock the island’s over views central peaks and valleys. try lunch, For Frio Ribeiro Afternoon Morning A Day in Central in Central A Day Madeira

. These . These brightly-paint- Map G3 • No bus

Pico Ruivo highest peak is Madeira’s palheiros

Map H2 • São Roque de Faial bus 103 bus 103 de Faial Map H2 • São Roque ) View from Pico Ruivo from View d ed triangular houses are comfort- ed triangular now and many able but compact, to extensions modern have and the kitchens accommodate the originals bathrooms that can visit and take You lacked. of tourist- of a row photographs the church, to next board houses the lanes of the vil- but wander will see plenty lage and you gardens. more, with immaculate ber-and-thatch dwellings known known dwellings ber-and-thatch as or SAM buses 53 and 78 buses 53 or SAM reached from the road next to to from the road next reached the petrol station on the eastern leads to the This side of Santana. Teixeira, do Achada car park at path from where a well-paved climbs to the summit (1,862 m, the south, the views To ft). 6,109 the high peaks and jag- look over ged ridges of an arid volcanic landscape; to the north, clouds hang around the lush, forested at the car park, look slopes. Back called rocks the eroded for (“Standing Man”) Homem em Pé behind the rest in a hollow house. Old sugar mill, Porto da Cruz Best of the Rest

Terreiro da Luta São Jorge ! Pious Madeirans believe that ^ São Jorge has a Baroque the Virgin appeared to a young church from 1761. A 19th-century shepherd girl on this spot and lighthouse sits on Ponta de São gave her the statue now in Jorge, with views of the coast. A Monte church. The present side road east of the village memorial was erected after Ger- leads to a small, sheltered beach man U-boats attacked ships in (see p46). d Map H2 Funchal Harbour in 1916; the Vir- gin’s help was sought and the & Faial bombardment stopped. d Map H5 The Fortím do Faial is a toy- Around Central Madeira town fort built in the 18th centu- Queimadas ry to fend off pirates. South of @ From western Santana, a road the village are views of Penha de signposted to “Queimadas” gives Águia and the newly formed rock way to a track leading to a house platform (fajã) where part of the with gardens, ponds and picnic cliff fell into the sea. d Map J3 tables deep in the green-wooded heart of the UNESCO World Nat- * Penha de Águia ural Heritage forest. d Map H3 “Eagle Rock” rises 590 m (180 ft) from the sea, casting its Caldeirão Verde shadow over neighbouring villag- £ From Queimadas, take a es. Young Madeirans regard the scenic levada walk to the “Green climb from Penha de Águia de Cauldron”, a waterfall cascading Baixo to the top as a test of down a rock hollow. Sturdy foot- strength and endurance. d Map J3 wear, torches (ﬂashlights) and waterproofs essential. d Map G3 São Roque de Faial ( Several valleys meet at São Ponta Delgada Roque, so walkers can start at $ At Ponta Delgada’s church, the church and choose one of see the miraculous statue, found the paths that go west up the ﬂoating at sea in the 16th century. Ribeiro Frio (“Cold River”) or east When the church burned down in up the Tem-te Não Caias (literally, 1908, it was found charred but “Hold on; don’t fall”). d Map J3 intact in the embers. d Map F2 Porto da Cruz Boaventura ) The Old Town is a maze of % Boaventura makes a great cobbled alleys and old wine base for exploring the orchards warehouses. A sugar mill stands watered by the Levada de Cima. by the harbour, where visitors Make sure to take a good walk- can buy the aged, locally distilled ing guide (see p50). d Map G2 spirit aguardente. d Map J3 78 Around Central Madeira 79 Travessa Travessa

d € under €15 under €15–€25 € €€ €25–€40 €€€ €40–€60 €€€€ €€€€€ €60 over Casas Próximas • Map F4 Casas Próximas

d Restaurante Ribeiro Frio Ribeiro Restaurante a spring- opposite Located de Escola Profissional São Martinho Hotelaria, Eira do Serrado Eira above ft) (1640 500 m Poised de Poiso, Abrigo Casa de Pass Poiso Nun’s Valley, Curral das Curral Valley, Nun’s Freiras Map E2 • 291 782 269 • €€ Map H4 • 291 575 898 • €€ Map G4 • 291 710 060 • €€€ Map G4 • 291 710

For a three course a three course For with half one meal for of wine (or a bottle meal), taxes equivalent charges. and extra Price Categories Price Eat where Madeira’s chefs and and chefs Eat where Madeira’s their training; the receive waiters and tea lunch, offers hotel school crisply served. dinner, d ( d ) & d * here cooler and wetter often It’s in Madeira, than elsewhere hence the big open fire at this mountain-pass timber lodge.The delicious make embers glowing barbecued Madeiran kebabs. ^ on the Delicious dishes based and crop: roasted local chestnut in a tastysalted; with vegetables and as soup; in a delicious cake; a liqueur. fed trout farm, this woodland this woodland trout farm, fed lodge serves and both smoked grilled trout, trout pâté and it Wash home-made puddings. a glass of local cider. with down Curral das Freiras, you could come you das Freiras, Curral but the the fine view, here just for is also first class, with a good food fish. of grilled meats and choice • 291 712 177 • €€ 177 • 291 712 dos Piornais • Map G6 • 291 700 386 • €€€ bolo de bolo de Levada Rua São João São João Rua

d . or the beef and Estrada do João G Estrada do João

Levada dos Tornos Tornos dos Levada kewers of beef, with with of beef, kewers d Rua da Achada 17, Sítio da 17, Achada da Rua

(feijoada) d . The English owners English owners The . Caminho dos Pretos 40 • Map Caminho dos Pretos (dobrada)

d Caminho dos Pretos 89 • Map Caminho dos Pretos Places to Eat Places

bread, liberally soaked in in bread, liberally soaked d As Vides, Estreito de Estreito Vides, As de Lobos Câmara Lobos Mar, Câmara de Câmara Lobos Mar, Lobos Churrascaria O Lagar, O Lagar, Churrascaria de Lobos Câmara Hortensia Gardens Tea Tea Gardens Hortensia São Gonćalo House, Jasmin Tea House, São House, Tea Jasmin Gonćalo

bean stew bean stew

% can smell the wood-smoke You log cabin this 1950s near as you serving grilled meats from an open ﬁre.

Choose from limpets or winkles, Choose from limpets or winkles, or grilled ﬁsh; or try roast chicken the tripe $ warm rounds of cake-like of cake-like rounds warm caco This big,This pink palace serves per- tender garlic-ﬂavoured fectly s and chicken garlic butter. £

dos Tornos, the Hortensia serves Tornos, dos to hungrysoup and cake walkers. @ from the west Further

This is a popular spot for walkers walkers is a popular spot for This the exploring ! (see p51) serve soups, tea home-made with scones, and delicious cakes. Casa de Abrigo de Poiso Abrigo Casa de H6 • 291 792 179 • € H6 • 291 792 179 H6 • 291 792 796 • € Igreja • Map F6 • 291 945 322 • €€

Zarco 478 • Map F6 • 291 941 865 • €€ de Deus 8 • Map F6 • 291 942 379 • € Left Paúl da Serra Right Seixal Western Madeira HE VALLEY ROAD LINKING RIBEIRA BRAVA AND SÃO VICENTE via the TEncumeada Pass forms the boundary between the high peaks of central Madeira and the ﬂat, treeless moorland of the Paúl da Serra plateau to the west. Scores of ridges and ravines run down the plateau escarpment, like pleats in a skirt. Those to the north plunge almost sheer to the sea, with waterfalls that cascade for hundreds of feet. Farming villages cling to the gentler slopes to the south and west, where new roads are beginning to open up beautiful parts of the island which few visitors have yet explored. Around Western Maderia

Porto Moniz

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80 Around Western Maderia 81 Map d Map B1 • waves that that waves d waves breaking on breaking on waves São Vicente Porto Moniz Porto Moniz, the most north- Porto Seixal Most of the coastal road now % $ westerly conurbation on the on the conurbation westerly island, combines a bustling agri- set high up around town cultural town with a lower its church, and bathing. to food devoted been pools have rock Natural into a bathing complex turned in environment a safe offering the exhilarating to enjoy which by of being showered experience from spray newly The rocks. the offshore landscaped seafront is lined with restaurants selling some of the seafood. best island’s runs through tunnels, but Seixal is but through tunnels, runs places where you one of the few the north can still get a sense of cliffs Tall splendour. visual coast’s into the distance are stretching powerful pounded by Vine- break at their feet. and swell on almost to the rock cling yards plunge Waterfalls terraces. vertical heights on from the wooded either side of the village. Rodoeste buses 80 and 139 buses 80 and 139 Rodoeste D2 • Rodoeste buses 80 and 139 D2 • Rodoeste ice with a with a Map E2 d (see p39), Levada do Norte do Norte Levada Map D5 • Rodoeste buses 4, Map D5 • Rodoeste d

São Vicente village on the pretty This The Encumeada Pass is a a is Encumeada Pass The Boca da Encumeada Ribeira Brava Ribeira “Wild (literally, Brava Ribeira

Map E3 • Rodoeste buses 6 and 139 buses 6 and 139 Map E3 • Rodoeste

Boca da Encumeada – the view south £ d

@ ! northern side of the Encumeada northern side of the Encumeada in demands to be captured Pass doors paint; deep-green shutters, and balconies, with stone lintels red, are and frames of ox-blood houses along set in white-walled streets. basalt the grey saddle of rock forming the water- forming saddle of rock and shed between the north from south of the island. Clouds the lip spill over the north often of the mountains, dry like (signposted “Folhadel”), which to walk 15-minute a lovely offers the point where it enters a tunnel. pouring from a flask. Wherever Wherever pouring from a flask. look, there are majestic you in the peaks, from Pico Grande east to cone-shaped Crista de south of Just Galo in the west. the pass is the River”) is one of the island’s old- island’s is one of the River”) established as a well est towns, production by centre of sugar large parish The the 1440s. dating from has sculpture church the other end of At the 1480s. the Museu Etnográ- the village is fico da Madeira small shop selling Madeiran small shop selling Madeiran crafts. 6, 7, 80, 107, 115, 139 and 142 139 115, 80, 107, 6, 7, • Rodoeste buses 6 and 139 buses 6 and 139 • Rodoeste meeting-point of several ancient cobbled footpaths, which climb up the cliffs to either side. In the village itself, a maze of alleys winds down to a pebble beach, where surfing competi- tions are held during the winter months. A new seafront road and a large sea-wall were completed Lighthouse, Ponta do Pargo in 2004; opinions vary as to how this has affected ^ Ponta do Pargo the quality of the surfing here. Madeira’s westernmost point, d Map B4 • Rodoeste bus 142 Ponta do Pargo is the best place on the island to watch the setting Calheta sun or to gaze down at the waves * Calheta’s fine parish church, breaking along the tall cliffs of the a scaled-down version of Funchal island’s southern and western cathedral (see pp8–9), stands on Around Western Maderia coasts. The lighthouse on the a terrace halfway up the hill headland (built in 1896) has a leading west out of the village. It small exhibition of maps and pho- has a precious 16th-century tographs charting the history of ebony-and-silver tabernacle, and lighthouses on every island in the a richly decorated knotwork Madeiran archipelago. The ceiling ceiling above the high altar. Next of the parish church is covered door to the church is the with colourful paintings of sun- Engenho da Calheta, one of sets, terraced hills, and the scenic Madeira’s two surviving sugar spots of the western part of the mills; the other is in Porto da island, all painted in the 1990s by Cruz (see p78). As well as a Belgian artist who has settled in producing mel (honey), used in the village. d Map A2 • Rodoeste making the island’s unique bolo buses 107 and 142 de mel (honey cake), the mill also makes aguardente (rum) & Jardim do Mar from distilled cane syrup. d Map This pretty village (literally, B4 • Rodoeste bus 142 • Calheta Church: “Garden of the Sea”) sits at the open 10am–1pm, 4–6pm daily • Engenho da Calheta: 291 822 264. Open 9am–7pm Sugar Revival Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat–Sun The sugar mills at Calheta and Porto da Cruz date from the sugar ( Paúl da Serra renaissance of the 19th century, The undulating plateau of when the demand for high-quality Paúl da Serra (“Mountain sugar rose dramatically, thanks to Marsh”) is the gathering point the popularity of sweetmeats in for the waters that feed many of genteel European households. the island’s rivers and levadas. It The nuns of Santa Clara (see p16) serves as a sponge for the were especially renowned for abundant rains which fall when their preserves, marzipan sweets, crystallized figs and other delights. clouds reach the island, rise, then cool. Free-range horned 82 Around Western Maderia 83 , the Paúl Paúl . Beyond . Beyond . For . For Porto Ribeira Ribeira (see p39) for 2 km 2 km for São Vice- Ethnography Ethnography opens plateau. Taking Taking plateau. . Allow two hours two hours Allow . . The rock pools of pools of rock The . , 25 minutes from , 25 minutes from , spare some time for a a , spare some time for São Vicente Serra de Água de Serra Drive back along the road along the road back Drive to right to (1 mile), then turn da Janela Ribeira the village, the road climbs through a wild landscape Madeiran forest. of native as the Continue as far da Serra two right turns, the next the car park above for make Rabaçal this woodland to explore of birdsong,world running and rocks fern-hung water, ancient tree heaths. take to Funchal, return To turn the Encumeada Pass, then left Vargem, to left again to join the long tunnel that joins the south coast at Ribeira Brava. highway First stop on this long but long but First stop on this trip is rewarding Brava south coast the by Funchal arrive If you highway. the before Museum on the sea- a coffee enjoy front or call in at the church. signs Driving north, follow to spectacular mountain tun- the new avoid views, Vicente. nel route to São Descending to nte tour short but fascinating on the caves of the lava east bank of the river. road the old corniche Take to 101”) (“Antiga Moniz are a great town the lower tension place to relieve a Follow the drive. after of in any dip with lunch fish restaurants.nearby Afternoon Morning A Day in Western in Western A Day Madeira

d Rabaçal of rain centuries by Washed Map C3 • Rodoeste bus 139 bus 139 Map C3 • Rodoeste

Risco Falls, Rabaçal Risco Falls, d Map D3 • Rodoeste bus 139 Map D3 • Rodoeste ) cattle graze the lush grass. lush grass. the graze cattle the surrounding from People here in summer to villages come and wild bilberries pick into turn they which blackberries, of delicious conserves. Many on the them also depend of wind turbines forest plateau’s with electricity. to supply them running from the ﬂat, monoto- running da of the Paúl nous surface is a magical green Rabaçal Serra, brisk A in the moorland. cleft a wind- down walk 2-km (1-mile) ing tarmac takes you path through stands of heather and house with broom to a forest picnic tables. marks the Rabaçal (both start walks of two popular the signposted). One follows do Risco to the Risco Levada (30 minutes there and Waterfall the next the other follows back); (“25 to 25 Fontes down terrace pool Springs”), a cauldron-like numerous cascades (1 by fed hour 40 minutes there and back). Left Ribeira da Janela Right Ponta do Sol Best of the Rest

Ribeira da Janela Lombo dos Reis ! This wild, uninhabited valley ^ The “Ridge of the Kings” is 18 km (11 miles) long, joins the named after the tiny, rustic Capela sea beside a rocky islet with a dos Reis Magos (“Chapel of the window-like hole (hence the Three Kings”), which has a rare name, “Window Valley”). The road early 16th-century Flemish altar descends through a misty world carving of the Nativity. d Map B4 of ancient trees kept moist by the condensation of clouds. d Map C1 Lugar de Baixo & Above the tiny freshwater Fanal lagoon at Lugar de Baixo is a vis- @ This forest house halfway up itor centre with pictures of the Around Western Madeira the Ribeira de Janela is the start- wild birds that frequent this ing point for walks that lead rocky shore, though you are through an alpine landscape of more likely to see domesticated herb-rich meadows, ﬁlled with ducks and moorhens. d Map D5 ancient laurel trees. d Map C2 Prazeres Ponta do Sol * The priest at Prazeres has £ The American novelist John established a small children’s dos Passos (1896–1970) visited farm opposite the church, but this sun-trap village in 1960 to the main attraction is the ﬂower- see his grandparents’ house – lined path along the Levada Nova now being turned into a cultural (“New Levada”), which can be centre. d Map D5 followed east or west. d Map B3

Lombada Paúl do Mar $ On a ridge above Ponta do ( The best approach to this Sol is one of Madeira’s oldest ﬁshing (and surﬁng) village is houses – the 15th-century man- down the twisting road from Fajã sion of Columbus’s friend João de Orvela. On the way, look out Esmeraldo (see p65). The water- for a glimpse of the stunning mill opposite is fed by one of the Galinas Gorge. d Map A3 island’s oldest levadas. A pretty church of 1722 is lined with tile ) Cristo Rei pictures of the Virtues. d Map D5 This statue of Christ (on the ER209 road to Paúl da Serra) is Arco da Calheta reminiscent of the famous one in % Another early church survives Rio de Janeiro. It is also the at the heart of this sprawling vil- starting point for easy levada lage – the mid-15th-century walks – west to the Paúl da Capela do Loreto, founded by the Serra, east to the waterfalls at wife of Zarco’s grandson. d Map C4 Cascalho. d Map D4 84 Around Western Madeira 85 €25–€40 €40–€60 €60 over under €15 under €15–€25 € Lombo da Lombo €€

€€€ €€€€ d €€€€€

Map B4

d Lugar de Baixo • Map Lugar de Baixo

d Estalagem Pico da Urze •

Rua de São Bento 37 • Map de São Bento Rua

d d Santo António, nr Ribeira nr Ribeira António, Santo Brava Brava Ribeira O Pátio, into Seated at tables tucked Jungle Rain, Sítio do Ovil Jungle Rain, themed restaurant full This do Mar Jardim Tarmar, unpretentious simple, This Jardim Atlântico, Jardim Prazeres vegetarians best bet for The Price Categories Price For a three course a three course For with half one meal for of wine (or a bottle meal), taxes equivalent charges. and extra ( With a its smart roof shaped like glass-and- this swish new wave, restaurantwood is a great choice seafood. for ) & * ^ a maze of gardens and terraces, gardens and terraces, of a maze on simple, good- can feast you salmon, steaks or grilled value chicken. of (plastic) tree trunks and tropi- and of (plastic) tree trunks of cal creepers is in the middle do Mar plateau. the bleak Paúl menu of pastaspaghetti The and it a ﬁrm family bolognese makes favourite. restaurant on the eastern side of the village is one of the best in ﬁsh and seafood. the area for a small bougainvillea- There’s shaded terrace. looking for an escape from an an escape from an looking for the endless diet of omelettes, Atlântico restaurant Jardim at the from Hotel sources its produce gardens. local market D5 • 291 952 296 • €€ Map C3 • 291 820 150 • €€ Map C3 • 291 820 150 D5 • 291 972 868 • €€€ • 291 823 207 • €€ Rocha • Map B3 • 291 820 220 • €€€ Rocha

, Ponta Ponta , Praia do Porto do Porto Praia

caldeirada d Praia do Porto Moniz • do Porto Praia

Map A2 • €€ Map

d d Places to Eat Places

do Pargo Casa de Chá “O Fío” “O Casa de Chá Orca, Porto Moniz Porto Orca, dining room with circular The Long regarded as the best as the best regarded Long O Cachalote, Porto Moniz Porto O Cachalote, “Virgil’s” stands out from “Virgil’s” O Virgílio, O Virgílio, São Vicente Pousada dos Vinháticos, Vinháticos, dos Pousada Água de Serra

Map E2 • 291 842 467 • €€ Map E4 • 291 952 344 • €€€

A teahouse isn’t what you’d what you’d A teahouse isn’t but ﬁnd on a clifftop, to expect the pilgrimage for make many hearty home-made soups, and dishes of cod with sweet peppers. % $ £ d @ d

The food is perfectly good but the good but the is perfectly food The steal the limelight. Picture views look out onto Madeira’s windows mountain land- Wagnerian most sun. the setting scapes, lit by ! O Cachalote, Porto Moniz Porto O Cachalote, (fish casserole), red bream and (fish casserole), red bream and sea bass. its big windows maximizes the the maximizes its big windows pools of the rock over views to a Moniz, adding savour Porto menu that features seafood restaurant in Porto Moniz, restaurantseafood in Porto has competition now O Cachalote restaurants new in from several this popular resort. the other seafront fish restaurants its eccentric for Vicente in São authentic Madeiran decor, sardines. atmosphere and perfect

Map B1 • 291 850 000 • €€ Moniz • Map B1 • 291 853 180 • €€ Moniz • Map B1 • 291 853 180 Left Santa Cruz Right Machico’s fortress Eastern Madeira OST VISITORS CATCH A GLIMPSE OF EASTERN MADEIRA as they arrive, Mﬂying in over Machico, the island’s second biggest town, and driving from the airport to Funchal along the south coast highway. Away from these areas, there are wide expanses of untamed nature where no roads go. These include the whole north coast, with its exhilarating paths and vertigo-inducing cliffs. Also worth seeking out are the historic whaling village of Caniçal, the charming town of Santa Cruz and the gentle, pastoral landscape of the Santo da Serra plateau, Sights

source of the island’s wicker products. 1 Garajau Around Eastern Madeira 2 Caniço de Baixo 3 Santa Cruz 4 Machico 5 Caniçal 6 Ponta de São Lourenço 7 The Ilhas Desertas 8 Portela 9 Santo António da Serra 0 Camacha Fishing boats on the beach at Caniçal

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86 Around Eastern Madeira 87

. eys nway Moby Moby (see p39) is on the is on the (pastry (see p8) Map K4 • SAM Map K4 • SAM

d (see p40) pastelarias , but its star, Gregory , but its star, Map K5 • SAM bus 20, 23, bus Map K5 • SAM Map L4 • SAM bus 113 Map L4 • SAM

cream. Back from the from the cream. Back Lido, painted azure and azure and Lido, painted perhaps designed by the the perhaps designed by same architect coast and down winding winding coast and down d port. In 1956, John Huston Huston John port. In 1956, came here to shoot the opening scenes of Dick became so seasick Peck, had to shoot the that they The rest in a studio. Museu da Baleia conservation how explains Tuna has replaced whaling. a vital plays fishing now role in the local economy. d 53, 60, 70, 78, 113,156 Deco-style Palm Beach Beach Deco-style Palm and cathedral in Funchal, ic church as splendid as the the as splendid as ic church Caniçal Caniçal holds the dubious Machico is where Captain Machico Santa Cruz Santa of great is a town Santa Cruz alleys is a 15th-century Goth- is a 15th-century alleys shops), as well as the Art Art as the shops), as well point is the beach, lined with lined with beach, point is the and cafés is right next door. The focal focal The door. is right next % $ £ eastern side of the harbour, eastern side of the harbour, giant Indian fig trees. shaded by first gover- of Machico’s A statue stands Teixeira, Vaz Tristão in nor, front of the fine 15th-century on the main parish church A grid of cobbled all square. to the leads from here down seafront fortress. whaling honour of being a former Zarco and his crew first set foot first set foot Zarco and his crew chapel The on Madeira in 1420. founded they character, and surprisingly peace- and surprisingly character, ru that the airport ful, given bus 20, 23, 53, 78, 113,156 Satue of Christ the of Christ Satue Redeemer, Garajau Redeemer, Map J6

d (see (see . in Portuguese) in Portuguese) , a charming villa hotel villa hotel , a charming (see above)

Map J6

garajau

d . Along Rua Baden Powell, the the Powell, Baden Along Rua Caniço de Baixo Garajau of Rio version A miniature

@ ! main street of this clifftop holiday holiday main street of this clifftop Art will ﬁnd Inn and village, you (see p115) of modern that mounts exhibitions da Canavieira Praia tiny The art. an down is reached public beach near the junc- alley easily-missed a For da Falésia. tion with Rua can also use the small sum you Galomar Lido (open 9am–7pm The winter). 10am–5pm summer, the Manta lido is the base for organizes Diving Centre, which trips to the Garajau Marine Reserve p90) de Janeiro’s statue of of statue de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer erected on the was headland wild and rocky end of at the southern The 1927. the village in terns ( their name to the that gave from village can still be seen the zigzag path that winds to a face the cliff down the below pebble beach headland. Underwater in and reefs rich caves for extend marine life 2 km (1 mile) to either side, and are protected as a marine reserve Galomar Lido, Caniço de Baixo Galomar Lido, Volcanic cliffs at Ponta de São Lourenço

Ponta de São Lourenço shore Ilhas Desertas (“Desert ^ The long, narrow chain of Isles”), which form part of the eroded volcanic cliffs and ravines same volcanic formation. Though

Around Eastern Madeira at the eastern tip of Madeira is arid and uninhabited, these an exciting and dramatic islands nevertheless host all wilderness, protected as a sorts of rare and endangered nature reserve because of its wildlife, including spiders, monk coastal plants. The rocky seals, petrels and shearwaters. peninsula can be explored from An application has been made to the much-used path that starts UNESCO to have the islands from the car park located at the declared a World Natural Herit- end of the south coast road. age Site. For a closer look, con- d Map M4 tact one of the boat companies based at Funchal’s marina, many & The Ilhas Desertas of which offer day-long trips to Ponta de São Lourenço is the islands (see p52). d Map J1 linked underwater to the off- * Portela The Ilhas Selvagens The viewing point at Portela Also part of the Madeiran archi- has more than its fair share of pelago are the arid and treeless roadside cafés because it was Ilhas Selvagens (“Wild Islands”), once the transport hub for the which lie 285 km (178 miles) east of the island. New tunnels south of Madeira and 165 km linking São Roque do Faial with (103 miles) north of Tenerife, in Machico have changed all that, the Canaries. These tiny volcanic but Portela is still an important islets, claimed by Portugal in 1458, have Europe’s largest nest- landmark for walkers. You can ing colonies of rare shearwaters walk south from here to Porto da and storm-petrels. Since 1976, Cruz (see p78) along a trail once military sentries from the Nature used by wine carriers, or west Guards team have been perma- along the Levada do Portela nently stationed on the islands to through dense primeval wood- protect the birds, which were land and mountain scenery to once caught, salted and dried as Ribeiro Frio (see p76). d Map J4 • a delicacy. SAM bus 53, 78 88 Around Eastern Madeira 89

. (see (see (see (see

Santa Santa (see (see (see p87) is famous is famous , where you , where you Santo António António Santo . Machico for a walk in the in the a walk for Caniçal Camacha (see p87)

. , with its churches and and , with its churches to the sub- , devoted About 3 km (2 miles) east About 3 km (2 miles) east a will reach of Caniçal, you “Prainha” car park marked to the path down Follow sand only natural Madeira’s a swim. for perfect beach, At the mini-roundabout just the car park, turn beyond a will come to and you left head-spinning viewpoint. at the roundabout, Back again and continue left turn to a large car park. From can sample the here, you ﬁrst part of the path that leads across the treeless peninsula to the east of the toward island. Head back the south and leave Funchal at coast highway Cruz of will ﬁnd a good choice restaurants dinner. for Assuming you are staying are staying you Assuming get- by start off in Funchal, south coast ting onto the signs to (follow highway take the the airport), then and head São Gonçalo exit road The Camacha. for passes the QuintaPal- do gardens heiro Ferreiro p24) Head to the its wicker. for on the main workshop into an insight square for are constructed they how (see p56) Carry on to da Serra contin- Then park. wooded ue through the village and where the road left turn for forks p87) on the Depending fortress. to might want time, you stop in and to see the lunch for Museu da Baleia p39) ject of whales. Afternoon Morning A Day in Eastern in Eastern A Day Madeira that that the O the O (see (see Map J4 • Auto- Map J4 •

d (see p56) is now a public a public is now owever, itowever, is (see p25) and ﬁelds of grazing cows. grazing cows. and ﬁelds of A monument in the centre A monument in the centre Camacha Santo António da Serra da António Santo António village of Santo The

Map J5 • Autocarros da Camacha bus da Camacha Autocarros Map J5 •

O Relógio wicker workshop, Camacha workshop, O Relógio wicker d

) ( park with camellias, hydrangeas park with camellias, hydrangeas viewing and rhododendrons, and Ponta points that look out toward de São Lourenço. of Camacha proudly declares that that proudly declares of Camacha game of ﬁrst ever Portugal’s in the town played was football English an by organized in 1875, H schoolboy. wicker Clock”) (“The Relógio factory opposite here, rather than people draws can see You its soccer history. demonstrations of wicker-making explore If you in the workshop. streets of the village, the back material: the raw can spot you of freshly cut willow stacks are steeped in These canes. stripped of their bark, and water boiled to make being before them pliable enough to weave. p48) cloud cover, Despite its frequent once English merchants wealthy here: one of homes built rural homes of the Blandy the former family da Serra (known to Madeirans to Madeirans (known da Serra sits in da Serra), simply as Santo a plateau ﬂat the middle of golf courses enough for 29, 77, 110 29, 77, carros da Camacha bus 77 da Camacha carros Bottle-nosed dolphins Garajau Marine Reserve Sights

Monk Seal Common Dolphin ! Europe’s most endangered ^ No longer as common as mammal, the monk seal was their name suggests. Population once persecuted by Madeiran numbers of these endangered ﬁshermen. The small surviving mammals have bounced back, colony is now protected, but can however, since the creation of be seen on trips to the Ilhas Madeira’s ocean marine reserve. Desertas (see pp52, 88). Bottle-nosed Dolphin Sperm Whale & The bottle-nosed dolphin is @ Canićal’s ﬁshermen caught another sea mammal that has

Around Eastern Madeira their last sperm whale in 1981. benefited from the creation of This is the whale you are most the reserve, which stretches likely to see on whale-watching 200,000 km sq (77,200 sq miles) trips (see p52). from eastern Madeira to the Ilhas Selvagens (“Wild Islands”), Humpback Whale a group of uninhabited rocks £ The humpback loves to leap north of the Canary Islands. out of the water and perform acrobatic somersaults (known as Gulls “breaching”). Madeirans can reg- * Herring gulls and western ularly spot this graceful whale yellow-legged gulls are the offshore during the winter. A seabirds you are most likely to mere 20,000 remain in existence. see on boat trips or hanging around fishing ports such as Pilot Whales Canićal or Funchal. $ Large schools of pilot whales use Madeira as a migra- Common Terns tion route as they pass between ( Related to gulls, but with a the sub-tropical waters of the deeply forked tail and a graceful Canary Islands on their way flight, Common terns can be north to the Arctic, though their seen from the lookout point at precise route remains a mystery. Garajau, skimming the water and diving for small fish. Killer Whales % Despite their name, these Shearwaters big whales (the largest members ) The shearwater is able to of the dolphin family) have never glide just above the waves, been known to attack humans – scarcely moving its wings. Once they are more likely to attack it was hunted by fishermen, who other whales. Solitary killer regarded it as a delicacy. Madei- whales can often be spotted ra has more than six varieties, patrolling Madeira’s warm waters. including the Great Shearwater. 90 Around Eastern Madeira 91 €25–€40 €40–€60 €60 over under €15 under €15–€25 € €€ €€€ €€€€ Praia dos Reis dos Reis Praia €€€€€

d Largo da Achada • Achada Largo da

Caniçal • Map L4 • 291

d d Rua do Mercado • Map K4 • do Mercado • Map Rua

d Praia dos Reis Magos Praia of beachside simplest This de Portela, Miradouro Portela Mercado Velho, Machico Velho, Mercado courtyard of the old sea- The Camacha O Relógio, or Sat- Come here on Friday Bar Amarelo, Bar Amarelo, Canićal Among the buildings of Portela • Map J4 • 291 966 169 • €€ • Map J4 • 291 966 169 Portela

Price Categories Price For a three course a three course For with half one meal for of wine (or a bottle meal), taxes equivalent charges. and extra d ( ) Homely restaurant in the style of a timber hunting lodge, with fires and generous por- warming beef tions of herb-flavoured home-made cider. and kebabs & * ^ restaurants within feet of the of the restaurants within feet shore serves the local fisher- daily catch. men’s front market in Machico has has in Machico front market res- into an alfresco been turned taurant serving grilled fish and meat. one of Madeira’s to see urday As acts. song-and-dance top folk dishes, there are as local well fish, as smoked specials, such and in a chilli and grilled prawns garlic sauce. Caniçal, the cream-coloured lime- Caniçal, the cream-coloured this har- stone-and-steel decor of bourside gem stands out. Choose from salads, pasta or grilled fish. 291 965 926 • €€ 961 798 • Closed Wed • €€ Wed 961 798 • Closed Map J5 • €€ Magos (1 km (half a mile) east of Caniço • Map J6 • 291 934 345 • € de Baixo) Traves- Quinta

d d -like dishes dishes -like and ﬁllet of and ﬁllet of Piscinas do

d tapas – Rua Baden Powell 61/2 • Powell Baden Rua

d doses Places to Eat Places

A Brisa do Mar, Canićal do Mar, A Brisa serves café glass-fronted This Gallery, Caniço de Baixo Gallery, rest- Art hotel’s Inn and The La Perla, Canićo de Baixo La Perla, as seafood Dishes such Pull up a chair, order a coffee, order a coffee, up a chair, Pull Pastipan, Santa Cruz Pastipan, Welcoming restaurant with Welcoming California, Garajau California,

Opposite the Dom Pedro Hotel • Map Opposite the Dom Pedro

% $

£ @

d ! Mercado Velha, Velha, Machico Mercado delicious The octopus. of shrimp or stewed adjacent restaurant fish fresh grills from the harbour. aurant is a hit with vegetarians, aurant is a hit with vegetarians, a special dish there’s whom for and a range of salads. of the day grilled on a eucalyptus fish is The fire. wood risotto au champagne risotto rosemary with veal are made vege- using organically-grown tables from the garden. and choose from a wide selection selection from a wide and choose egg of delicious cheesecakes, custards pastries and almond-based on at this deservedly popular café seafront. the Santa Cruz cheerful yellow, white and blue white and blue yellow, cheerful beef swordfish, offering decor, and scabbard fish as well kebabs desserts. as salads and delicious

J6 • 291 933 935 • €€

Map J6 • 291 938 200 • €€€

Caniçal • Map L4 • 291 960 700 • €€ 11 • Map J6 • 291 930 400 • €€€€ 11 Splendida Hotel, Estrada da Ponta Oliveira Oliveira Splendida Hotel, Estrada da Ponta sa da Figueira • Map K5 • Closed Sun • €

Left Porto Santo’s beach Right Church of Nossa Senhora da Piedade, Vila Baleira Porto Santo

ORTO SANTO LIES 43 km (27 miles) northeast of Madeira. Zarco (see p15) Pand his crew took shelter here in 1418, while on their way to explore the west coast of Africa. Realizing that the island would be a useful base, he returned here in 1419 to plant the Portuguese ﬂag, going on to Madeira the following year. Early settlers introduced rabbits and goats, which quickly stripped the island of its vegetation, so Porto Santo is not as green as Madeira. Instead, the “Golden Island” has one major asset: Around Porto Santo its magniﬁcent sandy beach, which brings holiday- Sights makers from Madeira and mainland Europe in 1 The Beach search of sunshine, sea and the agreeable sense 2 Vila Baleira of being a very long way from the busy world. 3 Nossa Senhora da Piedade 4 Casa Museu Cristóvão Colombo 5 The Jetty 6 Pico de Ana Ferreira 7 Ponta da Calheta 8 Zimbralinho 9 Fonte da Areia 0 Pico do Castelo View from Ponta da Calheta, the island’s westernmost point

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94 Preceding pages Typical tile picture on the building of the Portuguese Chamber of Commerce, Funchal Nossa Senhora da £ Piedade To the east of the main square in Vila Baleira

stands the majestic par- Around Porto Santo ish church, Nossa Sen- hora da Piedade, completed in 1446. Gothic rib-vaulting and rainwater spouts carved with human and animal heads have survived from this earlier church, The old town of Vila Baleira, capital of Porto Santo which was torched by pirates, then rebuilt in The Beach 1667. The 17th-century altar ! On top of Porto Santo’s vol- painting of Christ being laid in canic rocks, limestone, sand- his tomb is by Martím Conrado. stone and coral were laid down The saints on either side were millions of years ago, beneath a painted in 1945 by German artist warm, shallow sea. Falling sea Max Romer (see p13). d Map L2 levels exposed the coral to erosion, and the result is the mag- Casa Museu Cristóvão nificent 10-km (6-mile) sweep of $ Colombo sand that runs along the south- Christopher Columbus (1451– ern side of the island. Backed by 1506) came to Madeira in 1478 dunes and tamarisk trees, the as the agent for a Lisbon sugar beach is clean, wild and undevel- merchant. Here he met and mar- oped, but bathers are never far ried Filipa Moniz, daughter of the from a beachside café. Enjoying governor of Porto Santo. Their the beach may have therapeutic son was born in 1479, but Filipa benefits: burying yourself in the died soon after the birth, and sand is said to bring relief from Columbus left the islands in rheumatism and arthritis. 1480. The house where he and d Map L2 Filipa are said to have lived is now a museum, displaying por- Vila Baleira traits of Columbus, maps of his @ All life on the island centres voyages and models of his ves- on the capital, which sits roughly sels. d Rua Cristóvão Colombo 12 • halfway along the southern Map L2 • 291 983 405 • Open 10am–6pm coast. Pavement cafés fill the Tue–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat & Sun • Free main square, Largo do Pelourin- ho (“Pillory Square”), where offenders were once punished and public proclamations read out. The town hall, with its double staircase flanked by dragon trees, now stands on the site of the pillory. The cobbled pavement in front has a glass-topped, stone-lined pit, which was once used for storing grain. d Map L2 Casa Museu Cristóvão Colombo For details of flights and ferries to Port Santo See p103 95 Water, Wine and Lime peaks. At 283 m (929 ft), the Water, wine and lime were once Pico de Ana Ferreira is the high- Porto Santo’s economic staples. est of the summits at the more Mineral water was bottled at the developed western end of the disused factory opposite the Torre island. A road up its southern Praia Hotel access road. Quick- slopes will take you as far as the lime (used in mortar) made in 17th-century Church of São lime kilns like the one at the Torre Pedro. From there, a track leads Praia was exported to Madeira around the peak to a disused and beyond. You can still buy Lis- trão Branco, the local fortified quarry featuring an interesting wine, but less is made every year. formation of prismatic basalt columns aptly known as the “Organ Pipes”. d Map L2 The Seafront % The palm-lined path leading from the centre of Vila Baleira to the seafront is flanked by land-

Around Porto Santo scaped gardens dotted with rusty cannons. There are also memorials to Columbus (a bust set on a ped- estal), to the 16th-century soldiers and sailors who colonized Madeira (an obelisk carved with abstract Basalt structures on Pico de Ana Ferreira ﬁgures), and to the sailors who used to risk their lives crossing Ponta da Calheta heavy seas to keep Porto Santo & The westernmost tip of the supplied with food and ﬁrewood island is a beautiful spot, with a (a bronze statue of a sailor at the series of secluded sandy coves rudder of a boat). d Map L2 reached by scrambling over wave-eroded rocks. From the bar Pico de Ana Ferreira and restaurant at the end of the ^ Porto Santo consists of a coast road, you can look across saddle of land between two to Ilhéu de Baixo, the large, groups of cone-shaped volcanic uninhabited rocky islet south- west of Porto Santo. Madeira, too, is visible on the distant horizon, resembling a huge whale, and usually capped by clouds. d Map K2

Zimbralinho * Zimbralinho is the most beautiful of all the little rocky coves nestling along the western ﬂank of the island, its transparent blue seas popular with swimmers and divers. The cove is at its best around lunchtime, as it is shaded The rugged coastline and azure waters of Zimbralinho earlier and later in the day. 96 If you enjoy walking, buy the Guide to the Paths and Routes of the Island of Porto Santo from local shops or the tourist office. Around Porto Santo 97 , .

Pico de Pico de . Despite . Despite for this tour, tour, this for , then contin- Vila Baleira Vila up to the view- Pico do Castelo nway, you will will you nway, Ponta da Calheta Ponta (see p98) First stop after lunch is is lunch First stop after Areia da Fonte Santo looking arid, Porto springs natural has several head this one. Next, like Campo de Cima. on toward alongside the drive you As airport ru vine- see some of the few on the island left yards that still produce wine. the road up Take Ana Ferreira to see its ue on foot extraordinary-looking Afterwards, basalt columns. on to the stunning drive tip of the westernmost island, plenty of should have You relaxing on the time for sand, a swim, or a drink at before bar, the beach Baleira. Vila to returning You should ideally hire a ideally hire a should You car could do it by though you taxi. Start driving north- by east out of (see p95), Near- ing point at Portela. will see three you by, windmills of a type once Santo. common on Porto Carry on around the eastern end of the island, until right takes to the a turning de Fora to Serra down you Some 2 km (1 mile) beach. further north are traditional de stone houses at Serra Dentro and ﬁne views from Pico Branco. crossroads, At the Camacha to the left track a drivable leads up a stone- into soon turning viewing The road. paved point at the top has great central Porto over views at down Santo. Back there is a choice Camacha, lunch. and bars for of cafés Afternoon Morning A Day on Porto Santo on Porto A Day Map L1

Map K2

d d Lovers have carved have Lovers Map L1

Pico do Castelo to the east of high peak The Fonte da Areia da Fonte once bubbled straight Water

) ( The path to the cove starts at the path to the cove The to the end of the road that leads Centro Hipico, at the western end of the island. Wind-eroded cliffs, Fonte da Areia da Fonte cliffs, Wind-eroded Vila Baleira is called Castle Peak, is called Castle Peak, Baleira Vila though despite its name, it was the 15th From fortiﬁed. never used as a century on it was pirates place of refuge whenever It was threatened to attack. equipped with a cannon, which still survives point at the lookout A cobbled road near the summit. to the look- all the way takes you out, past the cypress, cedar and been plant- pine trees that have the slopes from sandy ed to turn to green. out of the sandstone cliffs at at out of the sandstone cliffs of Areia (“Fountain da Fonte the spring Sand”), but in 1843 tamed, can now was and you rock-ﬁltered taste the natural, a simply turning by mineral water to the spring leads path The tap. gully, where a wind-eroded down into been sculpted have the cliffs laminated sheets of harder and rock. softer but face, their names on the rock is the scouring wind so ferocious that declarations of perpetual ago are years inscribed 10 love faint. growing now Left Shopping at the Centro Artesanato Right Beachcombing Activities

Sightseeing Sailing ! Take a tour in an open-top ^ Sailing trips take you to bus to get a feel for the island. otherwise inaccessible coves Two-hour tours depart daily at and islands at the westernmost 2pm from the bus stop by the end of Porto Santo for that much petrol station on the eastern side sought-after, tranquil feeling of of the jetty. d Map L2 being on your own desert island. d Farwest Sailing Trips • Map L2

Around Porto Santo Exploring by Car • 914 843 985 @ Taxis offer reasonably priced island tours (around €15 per per- Diving son), but if you prefer to explore & Thanks to unpolluted seas independently, you can hire a car and the absence of commercial for the day from Moinho Rent-a- ﬁshing, Porto Santo’s shores are Car. d Map L2 • 291 983 260 rich in marine life. See for yourself with Porto Santo Sub, based £ Exploring by Bike at the marina. d Porto Santo Sub • Auto Acessórios Colombo Map L2 • 916 033 997 (opposite the road to the Torre Praia Hotel) rents out bicycles and * Horse riding scooters. d Map L2 • 291 984 438 Porto Santo’s newly opened Centro Hípico (Equestrian Beachcombing Centre) takes beginners, and is $ Take a leisurely stroll along located at Ponta, at the western the unbroken sands from Vila end of the island. d Centro Hipico, Baleira to Ponta da Calheta (see Ponta • Map K2 • 291 983 258 p96). Tropical shells and the occasional bean-shaped seed Golf (known as “Columbus Beans”, ( A brand-new 18-hole golf because they are said to have course – Porto Santo Golfe – inspired the explorer to look for has recently opened for business land on the other side of the on the eastern ﬂanks of the Pico Atlantic) often wash up on the do Ana Ferreira. d Map L2 • shore. d Map L2 291 983 778

Watersports Shopping % Mar Dourado, located on the ) Shells, model ships and sands at Praia da Fontinha beach other souvenirs with a nautical below the Torre Praia Hotel, rents theme are the stock-in-trade of out pedalos and kayaks, and will Port Santo’s craft shops, which organize paragliding, waterskiing you will find located in the Cen- and boat trips. d Mar Dourado • 965 tro do Artesanato, next to the 354 781 • Map L2 jetty. d Map L2 98 Around Porto Santo Left Hotel Porto Santo Right Mar e Sol beach restaurant Places to Eat and Stay Pé na Água, Vila Baleira Pizza N’Areia, Vila Baleira ! Not quite “foot in water” as ^ Menus heavy on meat make the name suggests, but you are life difficult for vegetarians here, right by the sand at this board- so this restaurant serving pizzas walk spot. The chef cooks a and fresh salads is a blessing. d great seafood rice, as well as Rua Goulart Medeiros (part of the Torre grilled fish and beef kebabs. Praia Hotel) • Map L2 • 291 980 450 • € d Seafront, beyond the Torre Praia Hotel • Map L2 • 291 983 114 • €€ Porto Santo, Vila Baleira & Tucked almost invisibly into Mar e Sol, Vila Baleira the dunes, this discrete hotel has @ Grilled fish and fragateira long been the choice of visitors (prawns, octopus, white fish and looking for a complete escape; at shellfish cooked with potatoes, some times of day, the loudest onions and tomatoes) are popular sounds are the chirping of the at this beach terrace located by sparrows in the lush green palm- the Hotel Porto Santo. d Campo de shaded gardens. Mini-golf, gym, Baixo • Map L2 • 291 982 269 • €€ swimming pool and beachside bar. d Campo de Baixo • Map L2 • 291 980 O Calhetas, Calheta 140 • www.hotelportosanto.com • €€€ £ The “Sunset Bar” has an enviable position at the western Torre Praia, Vila Baleira end of the island, where you can * With a cocktail bar in the sip cocktails and enjoy garlic-rich tower, and an atrium built around feijoada de mariscos (prawns and a historic lime kiln, the Hotel clams with beans and tomatoes). Torre Praia has plenty of charac- d Map K2 • 291 984 380 • €€ ter. d Rua Goulart Medeiros • Map L2 • 291 980 450 • www.torrepraia.pt • €€€ Estrela do Norte, Camacha $ The “Star of the North” is a Luamar ApartHotel, churrascaria – a grill restaurant – ( Cabećo da Ponta set in a farmhouse in a northern Located 4 km (2 miles) west of village. Choose from locally Vila Baleira, the Luamar is the sourced steak, tuna and octopus, island’s best self-catering choice. or more pricey imported seafood. d Map L2 • 291 984 121 • www.luamar. d Map L1 • 291 983 500 • €€ net • €€

Baiana, Vila Baleira Pensão Central, Vila Baleira % Join the locals at this popular ) The Central is a bright and restaurant. Of the many ﬁsh friendly hotel whose only draw- caught daily, there’s bound to be back is the short climb from the one you haven’t tried. d Rua Dr Nuno town centre. d Rua Coronel A M Vas- S Teixeira 9 • Map L2 • 291 984 649 • €€ concelos • Map L2 • 291 982 226 • € For a guide to restaurant and hotel price ranges See pp71 and 113 99 respectively

STREETSMART

General Information 102 Getting To and Around MADEIRA’S TOP 10 Madeira 103 Health and Security 104 Banking and Communications 105 Specialist Holidays 106 Walking Tips 107 Accommodation Tips 108 Madeira on a Budget 109 Shopping Tips 110 Things to Avoid 111 Places to Stay 112–117 102 Streetsmart madeiratourism.org 9am–6pm Sat&Sun.www. Open 9am–8pmMon–Fri, chal. MapP3.291211 902. ism: Avda16, ArriagaFun- throughout theyear. Santo tendstobefine side oftheisland.Porto especially onthenorthern sees thehighestrainfall, tember. OctobertoMarch to 23°C(75°F)inSep- 17° C(62°F)inFebruary peratures rangingfrom climate, withaverage tem- generally mildsub-tropical weather. Madeirahasa quiet, andenjoys perfect busy. June issurprisingly July and August arealso their normalrates.Easter, son; hotelscharge double tickets for cultural events. and maps, bustimetables tourist office sellsguides, updated. Funchal’s main ful, butinfrequently ist board’s website ishelp- Madeira. The Madeiratour- only basicinformation on most countries,butoffers office hasbranches in and non-slipshoes. (flashlight), waterproofs to walk, bringatorch is thenorm.Ifyou intend Casualwearmountains. for nightsandthecooler clothes, withextra layers so you willneedlight of doorsduringtheday, warm enoughtoeatout £ @ ! Left d Madeira Board of Tour- Christmas ispeaksea- When to Go The Portuguese tourist Tourist Offices Even inwinteritis What to Pack Madeira tourist office General Information Preceding pages at tourists. as dobusinessesaimed supermarkets stayopen, public holidays; large and offices closeon Nov and1Dec.Shops 15 Aug, 21 Aug, 5Oct,1 (June), 10 June, 1July, 1 May, CorpusChristi April, Ash25 Wednesday, holidays: Shrove Tuesday, following arealso throughout Easter. The 25 Dec,1Jan and vate consumption. long asthey arefor pri- as EU memberstates, and alcoholfromother on importsofcigarettes es virtually norestrictions an Union,Madeiraimpos- Funchal consulates arelocatedin in Lisbon).Several itself (they arealllocated embassies ontheisland ticket. There areno and anonward orreturn nized card EUidentity a valid passportorrecog- Madeira for 90days with Visitors canstayon $ water issafe todrink; plugs. non-continental Tap devices, andadaptorsfor are requiredfor 110-volt round pins. Transformers accept plugswithtwo 220 volts AC. Sockets The supplyis electricity & ^ % Right

Stalls atFunchal’s Mercado dos Lavradores and Water Electricity closesonEverything Public Holidays As partoftheEurope- Customs and Visas Passports Christmas, peakseasononMadeira (see box) . and 4aminLos Angeles. ra, itis7aminNew York year. At noononMadei- the UK,throughout exactly thesametimeas again from4–7pm. from 8am–noonand Churches mainlyopen on Sunday mornings. Tuesday; afew areopen noon onSaturday until museums areshutfrom 8:30am–3pm. Most are openweekdays from 10pm everyday. Banks markets stayopenuntil Saturdays. Largesuper- and from9am–1pmon 9am–7pm onweekd their native Portuguese. phrases, inadditionto mon French andGerman can alsomanagecom- converse inEnglish.Many ( * ) and readilyavailable. mineral water ischeap USA UK Sweden Spain Norway 291 223830 Netherlands Italy Germany France Belgium in Funchal Consulates Madeira observes Time Differences Shops tradefrom Opening Hours Most Madeiranscan Language 291 212 860 291 223890 291 235636 962 381599 291 200750 291 741 515 291 233603 291 210 200 291 220338 ays Streetsmart 103 ave Porto Santo Line: Porto d Porto Santo Santo Porto Sea by Porto Santo by Air by Santo Porto Santo Flights to Porto Rules of the Road roads are Madeira’s TAP Air Portugal: Avenida Avenida Air Portugal: TAP d ) luxu- by sea journey, The ry liner equipped cruise with cinemas, restaurants, shops and games rooms, takes two-and-a- half hours. Ships le at 8am, returning Funchal Tickets at about 10pm. through a can be booked agent, or bought at travel boarding. the port before cost is around €75 The return. ( * from SantaAir- Catarina port depart at one- or two-hour intervals The throughout the day. minutes; trip takes 15 in up to 45 can check you depar- minutes before be can Tickets ture. trav- through any booked Air TAP el agent or at the cost They office. Portugal return. around €105 improving, but be careful high- join a fast when you You a slip road. from way getting difficulty have may gear on one second above older roads, of the island’s tend to be steep which cars, and winding. Parked buses and pedestrians are with everywhere, so drive caution. If another driver flashes his lights, he is proceeding, not giving way. do Mar 8–10, Funchal. Map Funchal. do Mar 8–10, L2. 291 239 211 Rua da Praia 6, Funchal. 6, Funchal. da Praia Rua 300 Map Q3. 291 210 should should owever, youowever, Car Rental the ultimate flexi- For Buses Buses are an easy, Taxis taxis yellow Madeira’s Wind Car Rental: 291 766 Wind Car Rental: 291 766 not a realistic option for not a realistic option for the island. experiencing d & ^ % bility, hire a car. If you do do If you bility, hire a car. this, h that parking in be aware – is very difficult Funchal and metered. Under- ground car parks are the option. most convenient as companies, such Local Wind Car Rental and can Auto, Amigos do deals than cheaper offer international franchises. economical way of getting of getting economical way around the island, though services are geared to the peak commuter hours of The and 4–7pm. 8–10am full timetable is available from the main tourist can be Tickets office. bought from the kiosks alongside bus stops or directly from drivers. are ubiquitous and rela- Drivers inexpensive. tively a table of to display have trips (for charges fixed that from the air- as such and must port to Funchal), use their meters on other can also use You journeys. taxis half- and whole- for tours of the island: day agree a sure you make (around rate in advance or €90 a half day €40 for a whole day). for 697 • Amigos do Auto: Auto: Amigos do 697 • 726 291 776 Plane at Porto Santo’s airport Santo’s Plane at Porto way Map TAP TAP d Right d November to February is the time for bargain holidays, but the holidays, but the is the time for bargain to February November weather can be wet. ways.com

coincide with coincide with Getting to and Around Madeira to and Around Getting

Cruise ship Cruise Cruising on Madeira features Santa Catarina Santa Catarina Airport By Air From the Americas By Air From Europe

$ £ airport is small Funchal’s and functional, with car hire, banking services else. and taxis, but little An airport bus departs at roughly Funchal for 90-minute intervals, but do not its schedules always incoming ﬂights.

@ there are no direct As you flights from the US, will fly into Lisbon, then continue on the 90-minute leg to Madeira. onward ! operates Air Portugal TAP flights (direct scheduled or via Lisbon) from major European hubs, while as GB (such carriers new are entering the Airways) Online travel market. agents, including Expe- dia, are the quickest Left flights and pric- to check es. Charter flights are be only but may cheaper, part of a as available trips of a or for package duration. week’s many cruise itineraries, itineraries, cruise many but passengers rarely spend more than a few hours in port, so this is

www.gbair (USA) • GB Airways: Airways: • GB (USA) www.tap-airportugal.us www.tap-airportugal.us airportugal.co.uk (UK); airportugal.co.uk Air Portugal: www.tap- www.tap- Air Portugal: K5 • 291 520 700 104 Streetsmart rented vehicles. cover for damageto out personalliability also beadvisabletotake are ontheisland,itmight to hireacarwhileyou waterskiing. Ifyou plan scubadivingorriding, might undertake,such as holiday activitiesyou policy isvalid for any thatyouralso becertain of belongings. You should well asfor lossortheft medical treatment,as yourself for private insurance tocover take outadequatetravel unwanted attention. themselves fromany dazers inordertoprotect some walkers dog carry can beahazard,and dogs” so-called “guard insects. Stray dogs and poisonous snakes or island, andthereareno major problemonthe you incur. medical expenses that anyretain receiptsfor you mustbesureto reclaim costslater–so thenthe firstinstance, any medicaltreatmentin usually have topay for advance ofyour trip. You from apostoffice in complete aform E111 you and mustobtain medical treatment,but claim freeemergency zen, you areentitledto £ @ ! Left Make surethatyou Insurance Mosquitoes arenota Bites andStings If you arean EU citi- EU Form E111 Madeiran policeman Health andSecurity Right Santo, whereallofthe especially true ofPorto offer inMadeira. This is many spatherapieson ill tobenefitfromthe ing you toone that does. notice onthedoordirect- not openlatewillhave a any pharmacies thatdo opening pharmacy–and villagehasalate- Every appropriate remedies. ailments andprescribe trained todiagnoseminor farmácias every villageandparish. centres arefound in Centro deSaúde.Such centre –inPortuguese, to thenearesthealth attentive by going service receive bothswift and medical help,you will prevent dehydration. sufficient water to sunscreen, andcarry exposed tothesun,use and legsifyou are your head,neck, arms after exposure. Cover apparent untilsometime of toomuch sunarenot especially astheeffects any timeoftheyear, sunburn onMadeiraat $ & ^ % rabies onMadeira. there isnorecordof sought for dogbites,but Treatment shouldbe You don’t have tobe Spa Therapy Pharmacies –or Pharmacies If you doneed Health Centres It iseasytosuffer Sun Protection Pharmacy –have staff posts ineverytown. 200. There arepolice be reached on291 208 telephone exchange can Infância 28;thepolice Funchal isatRua da inmain policestation cial policereport. The will needtomake anoffi- an insuranceclaim,you bles, andintendtomake when outandabout. safe, orkeep themclose your valuables inahotel being toocareless;lock all unwise totemptfate by iour. Even so,itwould be generally antisocialbehav- pocketing, vandalism and crime –includingpick- ingly safe andfreefrom ( * of theirown service. the emergencynumber companies willgive you Madeira, butcarrental onbreakdown service There isnonational ) recommendation. your hoteltogive you a sage treatments. Ask skincare, detox andmas- therapy, aromatherapy, py centresoffering hydro- larger hotelshave thera- 112 ambulance Fire, policeand Services Emergency If you loseany valua- Police Madeira isstillrefresh- Crime Breakdown Vehicle

Streetsmart 105 , and you will will , and you Most newsagents in in Most newsagents Television Most hotels subscribe Newspapers Internet Madeira is no Cyber Café: Avenida do Avenida Café: Cyber office on Avenida Cal- Avenida on office ouste Gulbenkian (same hours). Correspondence “Poste should be marked Restante” to col- passport need your lect mail. Stamps can be from most purchased places that sell postcards. ( ) * d Funchal stock copies of copies of stock Funchal the international editions of the main European usually daily newspapers, publication. after a day to the standard package to the standard package of 30 satellite channels on Madeira, available including programmes in most European languag- CNN and es, plus MTV, BBC World. Reception tends to be somewhat outside Funchal. variable stranger to cyberspace. stranger to cyberspace. free hotels offer Many and internet webmail access to their guests. has a number of Funchal offering internet cafés connections, print- fast café ers, scanners, fax, service and multilingual include Cyber they staff; Global Net Café Café, and Lidonet Internet. Infante 6. Map Q1 • Global Infante do Hospital Rua Net Café: 25. Map P4 • Lidonet Velho Internet: Monumental Lido Shopping Centre, shop 14. Map G6 . Funchal’s . Funchal’s (correios) Post Offices Post Every has a post town Mobile Phones on Mobile coverage Public Phones Card-operated taurants, but most busi- a As cash. nesses prefer be given may result you that there is a the excuse card, problem with your or told that it is not com- patible with the system for in Madeira, which, most cards, requires you number into a PIN to key a keypad. Telephone Telephone kiosk & ^ % most central post office is is most central post office Zarco on Avenida (8:30am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat). Poste restante services are at the main post available office office Madeira is good, but the Madeira is good, but the from differ dialling rules network to network, so serviceyour with check go you before provider need to what codes you use to call someone from someone Madeira or for to call you. phones are found in in phones are found and village most town centres. Cards can be from most purchased as as well newsagents, and offer supermarkets, of way the cheapest phone To calling home. abroad, dial the international access code (00) and the country code (UK 44, US 1), then the area code without and finally the initial zero, number. the actual Right The area code for Madeira and Porto Santo is 291. This number This number is 291. Santo The area code for Madeira and Porto Santo. has to be dialled even when you are in Madeira or Porto

Banking and Communications Banking

Bank of Portugal Bank of Portugal Theoretically, credit credit Theoretically, Credit Cards Credit Cash Machines Nearly all banks also Banks in Madeira can in Madeira can Banks Exchange Currency Madeira uses the

$ £

@ ! Left cards are accepted in cards are accepted in as most shops, as well res- the more upmarket have a hole-in-the-wall a hole-in-the-wall have that you cash machine can use to obtain euros using a card that is part or Mastercard Visa of the PIN network and your transac- Such number. be subject to tions may and an administration fee also interest payments own your by charged card company. be found in every town, in every town, be found an and nearly all have service for exchange a charge they which no matter minimum fee the large or small how transaction, so it is a good idea to change larger amounts at a time. apply to charges Such as cheques, traveller’s as transactions with well passport your Take cash. when you with you Banks money. change open 8:30am–3pm though to Friday, Monday some also open on until 1pm. Saturday euro. Because of forgery, of forgery, euro. Because big notes tend to be treated with suspicion, €50, a mix of so ask for notes when €20 and €10 money. changing 106 Streetsmart www.coxandkings.co.uk www.cachet-travel.co. uk • brightwaterholidays.com • www.portugal.com • www.abreu-tours.com • co.uk •www.caravela.co.uk www.ramblersholiday www.hfholidays.co.uk • discoverytravel.co.uk • www.exodus.co.uk •www. do isenjoy thescenery. around –allyou have to ferrying your luggage done for you, including means thateverythingis an organized walking tour US. Portugal Onlineinthe UK; and Abreu Tours and and Caravela Tours inthe Holid tors areStyle tours. The leadingopera- bases for walks and using rural hotelsas Madeira tothefullby Golf pany ofanexpert. public gardensinthecom- plants –aswell asvisiting – rich depositories ofrare Madeira’s private gardens you gettoseesomeof specialist holiday isthat and one-to-onelessons teed teetimes,clinics ed greenfees, guaran- packages withdiscount- (see p113) Casa Velha doPalheiro $ £ d @ ! Left www.headwater.com • Booking yourself on Walking You canexperience Fly/Drive The Serra Estalagem Golf Packages The advantageofa Parks andGardens Dolphin-watching yacht, Funchal d (see p115) www.style-holidays. Specialist Holidays bothoffer golf andthe d www. ays s.co.uk 291 241124 223 366•Gavião Madeira: 291 280033• Albatroz: 291 762 218 • Ventura doMar: Caniço andDive College Galomar Divingisatthe Manta permanent divingschools: to dive. Two hotelshave ble unlessyou know how and weeds that areinvisi- crabs, seaurchins, corals caves, colourfulfishand tected world of marine southern cliffs isapro- face alongMadeira’s are returned tothewild. caught andphotographed, whereby fish,once scheme,tag-and-release tothe It isasignatory with equipmentprovided. full- andhalf-day trips Funchal’s marina,offers bonito. TuriMar, basedat fin tuna, albacoreand marlin, big-eye andblue- including blueandwhite teem withbig-gamefish, and whale-watching trips. islands, includingdolphin- life ofMadeira’s cliffs and see thebirdandmarine organize expeditions to yacht charter companies chal’s marina,several % & d ^ d gardens and are well placedfor visiting does notplay, bothhotels at alllevels. Ifyour partner TuriMar: 291226720 BonitadaMadeira:291 Just underthesur- Diving Madeira’s waters Fishing From kiosksatFun- Wildlife (see p115) Right levadas. BotanicalGardens, Funchal in International: 291969500 •Divediving.com College Diving:www.mantaManta www.terrasdeaventura.com holidays.com co.uk •www.cadogan Crowne Plaza sotherapy Spaatthe Spa Choupana HillsResort and ties. These includethe facili-health andbeauty ing stressreductionand large spacomplexes offer- surfing andparagliding. climbing towindsurfing, bikingandrockmountain adventure sports,from nation for arangeof covered asanidealdesti- the Porto Mare (see p112) Health SpaattheS p113) the MaderiaPalacio p116) Jardim Atlântico the Vital Centreatthe ( d * d for amemorableholiday. and spacomplexes, make well asitsindulgent pool and sunsets,as scenery island’sanniversary. The those celebratingaspecial for honeymooners, or theirfinestrooms reserve ful oldmanorhousehotels Many ofMadeira’s grace- ) Dom Pedro inMachico. International isatthe www.classic-collection. Terras de Aventura: Terrasde Several hotelshave Spa Holidays Madeira isbeingdis- Adventure Romantic Breaks Honeymoons and (see p113) , thePhytomer , the Active Centreat andtheSpaat (see p112) , the Thalas- (see p112) (see avoy avoy (see d ,

. Streetsmart 107 by Peter Peter by levadas. . Rather heavier heavier . Rather Picnics a to pack forget Don’t Field Guide Nothing can be more Mobile Phones Mobile phones can ) ( * picnic to enjoy in a sunny in a sunny picnic to enjoy glade or at a panoramic point along your viewing route. Any left-over of bread can be crumbs to the birds that will fed come to see what you are up to, or to the trout (escapees from local trout spot may that you farms) in some of the island’s and rivers annoying than not being than not being annoying able to put a name to all succu- ferns, the ﬂowers, that you lents and lichens will see along the route. in a Consider investing as guide, such wildlife History Natural Madeira’s in a Nutshell at available Sziemer, bookshops most Funchal (see p57) than its title implies, it need all you will tell you about the to know geology, ﬂora island’s and fauna. be a pest, but they may may be a pest, but they when also be a life-saver in an help used to call for are also They emergency. letting useful simply for taxi know your driver will be. If long you how a mobile do not have you hotel phone, let your are where you know going and at what time so that are due back, you someone can raise the to return. fail alarm if you . , the , the Madeiran bus Madeiran Right (see p115) (see p116) or the Solar de or the Solar de walks can be muddy walks Buses guide A good walking Cars and Taxis Cars and are veryThere few If you have come to come to have If you Choosing a Base or chilly clouds that or chilly ahead. obscure the way Levada long tun- involve and may that cascade nels, waterfalls or streams the path over be waded. to that have & ^ % will provide detailswill provide of bus as a connections as well timing guide, so that you how can see in advance route will take. long each buses are rural Madeira’s reliable, but on long-distance routes across the island there is only one might so you bus a day, to get to the start of have bus and return by the walk taxi,by or vice versa. Boaventura Boaventura on Madei- circular walks can you ra. Fortunately, to be dropped off arrange taxi, and collected by or can call a cab once you the end of your reach you Another option is walk. to the starting to drive and walk, point of your to your take a taxi back car at the end. Madeira just to walk, Madeira just to walk, might not be the Funchal You best place to stay. a to choose prefer may hotel that is closer to a of routes, good choice dos as the Pousada such Vinháticos Encumeada Residencial (see p116) www. paths d walking walking . levada

Walking Tips Walking Madeira

(see p51)

Check a reliable guide a reliable guide Check Be Prepared Mountains or Woods Maps and Guides Madeira is changing Give it a Go Give rate walkers Many t Walking along the Levada do Risco do Levada along the Walking t

$ £ variety, but Everyone likes there are those who opt mountain and for walks a wood- others who prefer land stroll. Madeira caters to both, with steep cobbled paths linking the cen- peaks of the island’s tral mountain range, where vegetation is sparse, and that follow the contours that follow through more gentle, domesticated landscapes.

@ ! Lef to see what hazards you to see what hazards you on the route can expect and prepare accordingly. Mountain lack walks shade and are suscepti- ble to sudden downpours so fast that no map or or that no map so fast guide is fully up-to-date. Users of Sunflower Books’ Madeira as one of the Madeira as one of the European most rewarding destinations and visit the Find out island regularly. on Madeira walking why by can be so addictive trying on a short walk signing or by own, your a guided walking up for tour guide are extremely good good guide are extremely on feedback at providing which the latest changes, are posted on the pub- website. lisher’s sunflowerbooks.co.uk 108 Streetsmart air-conditioning, television, hotelsofferstar) heating, five-star (andmostthree- can expect. All four- and guide tothefacilities you tem isafairly accurate has live music or adisco. especiallyifitrestaurant, located above thehotel with noiseifyour roomis You may alsohave trouble the EstradaMonumental. island’s busiestroads, look outontooneofthe views”“mountain actually rooms withso-called you tellthehotel.Some noise, make surethat £ south-facing balcony. especially ifithasasunny, a roomwithseaview, pay significantlymorefor case, you willfindthatyou sea. Where thisisnotthe room looksoutover the designed sothatevery Some hotelshave been @ and fromthesea. centrego fromthecity prices fall thefurtheryou west, inthehotelzone, highest prices.Further commandtheof thecity, tothewestMonumental views, alongtheEstrada five-star hotelswithsea be cheap. The luxurious City-centre hotelstendto a biginfluenceonprice. On Madeira,locationhas ! Left $ a View A Roomwith Location Price and Madeira’s gradingsys- Grading Systems If you aresensitive to Beware ofNoise Royal Savoy Savoy Royal Accommodation Tips pool complex four tosixpeople. family roomsthatsleep dren. Somehotelsh extra bedortwofor chil- welcome toask for an occupancy, butyou are designed for double & www.madeira-rural.com around theisland. some 20such properties which you canbook tourism website, through check outMadeira’s rural local touristoffices or Turismo Rural signs withthewords To findone,lookfor green buildings intocottages. redundant agricultural encouraged toconvert on Madeiraarebeing Farmers andlandowners ^ the grounds. be inmodernblocks in while guestroomsmay located intheoldhouse, room andloungesare cases, thebar, dining and finegardens.Inmost withmatureestate trees ter, often setonan age andhistoriccharac- usually hotelsofsome tas Estalagens % ence, character orquality. ambi- measure ofservice, tem isnot,h bar. gradingsys-The star and a ties, arestaurant garage orparkingfacili- direct-dial telephone,a (manorhouses)are Most hotelroomsare Children Country Hotels Rural Tourism and Estalagens Quintas and Right View from QuintaBeladeSão Tiago (inns)or , askat owever, a d

ave quin- • www.travellersway.co.uk co.uk •www.saga.co.uk • www.destination-portugal. madeira-portugal.com with Madeiraspecialists. supplements, orcheck offers innewspaper travel discounts. Look outfor has beenknown tooffer when even Reid’s Palace November andMarch, visiting Madeirabetween exceptional bargainsby can bedoublethenorm. these times,roomrates and after Easter. At all the weeks before, during and Flower Festival, and New Year, theCarnival times areChristmasand ahead. Otherpopular is besttobookwell July and August, whenit tend tobebusyduring the mainland,sohotels ing thesummerheatof with Portuguese escap- ( * full àlacartemenu. course, ratherthanthe ed tojusttwodishes per your choice may belimit- be goodvalue, though canthe hotelrestaurant, half-board, withdinnerin deluxe hotels.Opting for breakfast isan option at tea andcoffee). Cooked cooked meats, cheese, fruit, juices, pastries, breakfast (cereals,fresh usually includeabuffet Hotel pricesonMadeira ) d

Strawberry World: www. World:Strawberry You cansecuresome Winter Breaks Madeira ispopular Peak Seasons Half-Board Breakfast and Streetsmart 109 Guided Tours Guided tours offer Bars and Entertainment Transport taxis and you Avoid grilled sardines and grilled sardines and still, shop in salad. Better super- and local markets bread, Delicious markets. and fresh fruit olives, salad ingredients are all as as well inexpensive, dishes such ready-cooked or beef- as grilled chicken and-bean stew. ( ) money can easily save You discos and avoiding by venues other nightlife drinks where prices for times higher are several than in ordinary bars. In a coffee the same way, or a glass of Madeira in a local bar will cost a third of the price of the same hotel bar. drink in your * another cost-saving another cost-saving to taxis alternative or car is that downside The hire. in to travel are forced you a large group of people, well and the trip may include shop and restaurant stops that you to make. might not want will save money. You may may You money. will save up to an to wait have bus the airport hour for but it costs into Funchal, euros, compared a few with a minimum taxi fare of €20. Using buses to around the island travel will only cost a few euros, whereas a taxi ten back will set you times as much. . Food Madeira has literally Accommodation Madeira has some Last-minute Last-minute Bargains they are quiet. The best best The are quiet. they a cheap to secure way deal is to book an package inclusive (including flights, room, car hire meals, transfers, online or and excursions) through an agent. & ^ % at a can travel If you notice, or two’s week win- agents’ travel check last- and advertised dows minute bargains. In some know will not cases, you are staying where you but bad arrive, until you hotels are rare on Madei- ra (and noise nuisance is than a safety more likely problem). or hygiene hundreds of cheap cafés cafés hundreds of cheap and restaurants, where can eat very for you well choosing a head by €10 as simple dishes, such Clean rooms with a Clean rooms with a shared bathroom are to €25 a €15 for available luxurious night, and even apartments can be had are €40 a night, if you for or a week staying for more. www.madeiraisland.com has a useful accommodation section, has links to the which of of several websites hotels. cheaper Madeira’s astonishingly cheap astonishingly cheap accommodation in the city centre and at rural pensions (see p117) Charter flight at Funchal’s airport flight at Funchal’s Charter Right

Madeira on a Budget Madeira

Expensive taxis Expensive Madeira’s hotels are hotels are Madeira’s Packages Charter Flights Charter airlines UK charter Be Flexible best discounts The Book Ahead and Online

$ £

@ ! Madeira can be very the biggest In fact cheap. to the cost will be getting “no- island, since the serve don’t frills” carriers flights it, and scheduled are rarely discounted, due to the high demand. to secure a best way The discount is to book at least three months in online using an advance, as Expedia. agent such Left often not responsive to to not responsive often a room requests for when discount, even such as Air 2000, Air- Air 2000, as such tours, Britannia, Excel, can JMC and Monarch to way the cheapest offer get to Madeira, but many flights of them only offer April and here between also may You October. only fly find that they so a short once a week, break is not an option. are had by those who are those who are are had by about their travel flexible mind fly- dates and don’t ing early in the morning or late at night. Online seat costs agents show flights and different for the to choose you allow The cheapest. downside dis- is that, once booked, cannot counted tickets without pay- be changed penalty. ing a hefty 110 Streetsmart by aleadseal. –andinsomecasestag marked withahologram passed for sale.Itis for before quality being ischeckedembroidery local article. All Madeiran are after isthegenuine from Asia, ifwhatyou imported embroidery cheap, machine-made don’t pay highpricesfor VAT refund. dents areentitledtoa However, shops andsupermarkets. than indowntown wine generally moreexpensive port’s freeshopare duty lacks andis subtlety “rum” spirit), often describedas aguardente is with alonghistory the bestMadeira. andcomplexityoftlety duced andlack thesub- or rich aremass-pro- mediumsweetum dry, medi- labelleddry, Wines classic grapevarieties. methods, usingthe and madeby traditional wine isofhighquality sia. This shows thatthe Verdelho, BualorMalva- label mentionsSercial, (see p59) buy Madeirawine quality If you wantand totaste £ @ ! Left $ Make surethatyou Embroidery Prices inMadeiraair- Duty Free Another souvenir Aguardente Wines Non-vintage Flower stall . White Shopping Tips , make surethe non-EU resi- (sugarcane aguardente Right Vintage Madeira wine

tional cake madetoa (honey cake), itisatradi- round. Called made andsoldallyear Christmas cake, now souvenir isMadeiran long-lasting choice of month ormore. enjoying them for uptoa time: you canrelyon because they lastalong especially popular paradise flowers) are tainer. Strelitzias (bird-of- a robustcardboardcon- your departure, packed in hotel onthemorningof deliver themtoyour home, askthefloristto thejourneysurvive as possible,andthatthey your flowers areasfresh Funchal around thecathedralin along thenarrow streets er shopstobrowse in There ofleath- areplenty Portuguese specialities. leather goods,which are to thisrule areshoesand the island. The exceptions cost ofimportinggoodsto Europe becauseofthe those found elsewhere in generally higherthan & ^ % real character andflavour. an after-dinner drinkwith ferent matter entirely– dark lemon andhoney. Aged, poncha ascommonly served Another popularand Bolo deMel To make surethat Flowers Prices onMadeiraare Leather Bargains aguardente (see pp8–9) , mixed with bolo demel isadif- . downtown Funchal. (Madeira Forum) and for thehotelzone centres arealsoplanned (see p69) and MadeiraShopping Marina ShoppingCentre the mainonesare shopping centres. Among in Funchal arethelarge the bestplacestoshop sheer choice andvariety, there isnodoubtthatfor ers outofbusiness, island’s smallshopkeep- threatening todrive the country isillegal. country products outofthe whalebonetaking not betemptedtobuy: had awhalingfleet.Do this regionofMadeira relic ofthedays when Lourenço. The tradeisa park atPonta deSão in Caniçalandthecar forwhalebone ivory sale you may seecarved worth trying. chain supermarket zone. The the centreofhotel the oneatLido,in Market inFunchal, or opposite theFarmers’ one atthe Anadia Centre, souvenir hunting. Try the can alsobegoodfor * ) ( teatime treat. spices andisanexcellent sugar canesyrup and recipe thatincludes Supermarkets Though they are Shopping Centres A word ofwarning: Scrimshaws Large supermarkets Pingo Doce . Hugenew isalso Streetsmart 111 and and , this , this (see p57) Beware: most of most of Beware: (see p75) Beggars Although tourists Hidden Car Costs a decide to hire If you Maps Out-of-date your have Once you particularly dangerous on particularly dangerous on twisting narrow, Madeira’s roads; it also leads rapid- ly to car sickness. ) * ( come for the quaint boat- come for seaside and pretty yard of Câmara de setting Lobos fishing village also offers in a glimpse of real life Madeira. It is not unusual begging to see children a couple of euros for respond you here. How – but if you is up to you be money decide to give encour- that it may aware to age other children you. approach car and want to compare to compare car and want be guided prices, don’t daily the advertised by sure there rates. Make are no hidden extras, tax as insur- and such can add 20 ance, which per cent or more to the basic daily rate. want might well you car, a map or a walking guide. the maps and guides shops sold in souvenir out of date, are years and can be seriously misleading, how given Madeira has much in recent developed Choose a reliable years. bookshop check the publication publication the check buy. you date before Trawling for custom outside of a restaurant custom for Trawling Right Aggressive Aggressive Drivers Guided Tours Scores of tour com- Information Information Centres Lobster that the Remember & are thinking of hir- If you or ing a taxi a day for sure trip, make half-day that fast knows the driver driving and daredevil do not impress overtaking driving is Aggressive you. ^ % establishments Various along the route from the hotel zone to downtown call themselves Funchal cen- “tourist information free tres” and offer maps. In reality, are they tour agents that will extol the delights of Madeira up in order to sign you on a guided tour. $ panies offer identical identical panies offer trips in air-conditioned are a These coaches. a of getting good way of Madei- overview quick com- involve ra, but they pulsory shopping and gain To restaurant stops. of a more personal view a mini- the island, choose hotel bus tour or ask your to recommend a taxi driver who speaks English. oh-so-tempting “fresh oh-so-tempting “fresh touted in lobster” much restaurants seafood could end up costing you Lobsters a small fortune. are imported and priced sure so make weight, by how exactly know you will be charged. you much , .

Things to Avoid Things

Unofﬁcial tourist information centre centre information tourist Unofﬁcial Restaurant touts are Restaurant touts are Restaurant Touts Restaurant The problem is not as problem is not as The Timeshare Touts Timeshare

Overcharging Overcharging Drivers byTaxi

@ ! very drivers often Taxi take advantage of naive overcharging, visitors by especially on the journey to and from the airport. the fixes government The this trip annual- price for are legally drivers Taxi ly. table a obliged to display and must fares of fixed use their meters for unless other journeys, agreed a price have you in advance. Left more difficult to shake off off to shake more difficult than the timeshare variety. operate especially in They Town), (Old Velha the Zone and the marina complex the restaurant strip along Caminho da Casa Branca. to browse want If you choosing menus before where to eat, it is best to do this in the morning or times avoiding afternoon, when restaurants trawl customers. for bad as in some other hol- resorts, but time- iday share touts do operate in accosting people Funchal, as do Infante Avenida on stroll into downtown they from the hotel Funchal zone. If somebody greets “Hello, with a cheery you speak English?” do you a good chance there’s are They a tout. that he’s not very persistent, so with a polite just answer “No, thank you” 112 Streetsmart reidspalace.com •€€€€€ • 291717 171 •www. 139Monumental •MapH6 at thesubmergedbar. the deliciousfruit cocktails designed poolarea,and to dowithitsstunningly in theworld”) has more “second bestresorthotel newspaper (who voted it rants Madeira’s bestrestau- ic views, andsomeof shady retreats,panoram- dotted withpoolsand at everyturn, gardens antiques andworks ofart house–genuine country Reid’s hasthefeel ofa hotels oftheworld, the British withreadersofpopularity covery. Butthehotel’s 15th-century Age ofDis- ventured toduringthe that Portuguese sailors all thepartsofworld art andantiquitiesfrom a veritablemuseumof facilities ofthe Classic may alsousethe by abridge.Guestsatthe to itssister(S her honeymoon, islinked spent Margaret Thatcher (Savoy hotels inone. The original £ savoyresort.com •€€€€€ H6 •291213 000 •www. Avenida doInfante •Map @ ! Left savoyresort.com •€€€€€ H6 •291213 500•www. Rua Carvalho Araújo •Map Savoy Savoy Truly oneofthegreat Reid’s Palace The modernS Royal Savoy two now is Savoy The Reid’s Palace interior (see p60) Classic), where Character HotelsinFunchal and have en-suite bathrooms and airconditioning Note: Daily Telegraph Classic avoy Royal) Royal) avoy . Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit cards, Royal. d

avoy is is avoy Estrada d d

porto bay.com •€€€€ G6 •291707700www. 147da Monumental •Map

• www.portobay.com •€€€€ 2 •MapG6291703700 ra.crowneplaza.com •€€€€ 291 717 700•www.madei- 175/177mental •MapG6 Right one oftheisland’s best coast. The Boca do Caisis part oftheMadeiran looks outontoalovely liner, the Tivoli OceanPark cuisine. adventurous Mediterranean serving and arestaurant dren’s crêche andgym, pools, spacomplex, chil- swimming pool,indoor dens, ahugeoutdoor hotel withwonderful gar- of astunning new resort d’Oro restaurant. views intheIlGallo harbourwith spectacular pools. Enjoyfood Italian palm-shaded swimming terraced gardensleadsto Crowne Plaza. A seriesof Reid’s, theS west ofFunchal with clifftops immediately its primepositiononthe attest. courts, spaandcrêche gym, pool,squash guests, asits24-hour hotel thatcaresaboutits “style” Crowne Plazas $ & ^ % Resembling ahuge Tivoli OceanPark The Porto Mareispart Porto Mare The Cliff Bay shares Cliff Bay abouttheEverything Crowne Plaza NobleRoom, S , butthisisalsoa d d

Estrada Monu-

Rua doGorgulho avoy avoy ays d and the

Estra- avoy Hotel avoy com •€€€€€ 707 400• www Cruz 23•MapG6291 casabranca.pt •€€€€ 700 770•www.quinta Branca 5/7•MapG6291 tivolihotels.com •€€€€ G6 •291702000www. Passos Gouveia 29•Map penhafranca.com •€€ 204 650•www.hotelquinta Amélia 87•MapH6291 tainment. tainment. ing theevening’s enter- Moroccan before enjoy- Eat Portuguese, or Italian pool andhealthcentre. hotel hasalargeoutdoor borders. lawns andshrub-ﬁlled ed views acrossgreen guests withuninterrupt- invisible, whileproviding garden soastobealmost cleverly integratedintothe designed complex are rooms inthisimaginatively ultra-modern arrival. The are temptedtoaskon “Where isthehotel?” * ) d the poolandseaplatform. the footbridge toaccess only intrudes whenusing choice. The busyworld the bestcentralbudget This charming hotelis ( ities. phin Clubwithdailyactiv- their own poolandDol- Children aged5to12 have restaurants restaurants

Rua ImperatrizDona Branca Quinta daCasa This spaciousnew Pestana Grand de França Quinta daPenha d

Rua Simplíciodos d d

Rua daCasa Rua Ponta da (see p61) .pestana. , you . Streetsmart 113

d Estrada

d Rua Dr João Dr João Rua

d € under €50 under €50–100 € €€ €100–150 €€€ €150–200 €€€€ €€€€€ €200 over Caminho de Santo

d Quintinha de São Funchal João, Quinta das Vistas, Vistas, Quinta das Funchal Madeira Palacio, Palacio, Madeira Funchal enjoy southerly views over over southerly views enjoy include Features the city. a pool, tennis court, spa suite, billiards room and restaurant. ( Madeira Palace The guests busy with a keeps health club, large new outdoor and indoor pools, ﬂoodlit tennis courts, live pro- music and a varied gramme of night-time entertainment. ) hotel set 1930s-style This the city has high above something of a colonial with palm-fringed air, public rooms, gardens alfres- for and a veranda gym and co dining. Pool, spa. * Set in an elegant suburb the Quintinha of Funchal, has modern de São João its from wings extending historic core. Facilities include outdoor pool, tennis court, sauna and well regarded restaurant. João de São da Levada Rua 920 4 • Map H5 • 291 740 • www.quintinhasaojoao. com • €€€ António 52 • Map G5 • 291 750 007 • www.charming- hotelsmadeira.com • €€€€ Lemos Gomes 29 • Map Gomes 29 • Lemos • www. H5 • 291 750 100 jardins-lago.com • €€€€ Monumental 265 • Map G6 • 291 702 702 • www.hotel madeirapalacio.com • €€€€ , Caminho Price Categories Price a standard, For pernight double room if (with breakfast included), taxes and charges. extra

d See p99 Estrada da

d Jardins do Lago, do Lago, Jardins Funchal Quinta da Bela Funchal Vista, Quinta Splendida, Quinta Splendida, Caniço Quinta do Jardim Quinta do Jardim Jardim da Serra, Fonte Frade • Map G6 • Frade Fonte

& manor charming This house set in six acres of gardens has a famous resident – a giant tortoise called Columbo. Rooms ^ View” is “Beautiful The to the of the wild cliffs east, but it could equally be describing the lovely gardens of this traditional manor house. The Quinta The Splendida estatedescribes its walled “botanical garden” as a because of its rare and beautiful planting, now herb, fruit enhanced by and vegetable gardens supply the hotel which kitchens. d % $ restored bou- newly This tique hotel, with pool and health centre, is set in The gardens. renowned by estate founded was (1782– Henry Veitch Scottish a wealthy 1857), entrepreneur who made supplying wine a fortune navy. to the Portuguese da Serra 291 911 500 • www.quinta- 291 911 • €€€€ jardimdaserra.com

Ponta Oliveira 11 • Map J5 11 Oliveira Ponta • 291 930 400 • www.hotel quintasplendida.com • €€€ do Avista Navios 4 • Map 4 • Map Navios Avista do G6 • 291 706 400 • www. belavistamadeira.com • €€€€ ays are are

ove d is at is at (see p60) Travessa do Travessa

(see p48) d . The . The Palheiro . (see pp24–5) For hotels on Porto Santo Santo hotels on Porto For Caminho do

Character Hotels beyond Funchal Hotels beyond Character d

Quinta do Monte, Quinta do Monte, Monte Casa Velha Casa Velha do São Palheiro, Choupana Hills and Spa, Resort

is set in a modern conservatory. An oasis of calm, set high An oasis of calm, set high in a lush, Funchal above garden threaded by walled meandering cobbled manor at the The paths. heart of the estate is decorated with antique and oriental rugs. furniture dining room The Rua da EstalagemRua 23 • Map H5 • 291 790 350 • www. • €€€€ casa-velha.com £ just over the hedge; Pal- just over heiro Golf

Built as a hunting lodge Built as a hunting lodge the Count of Carval-by Casa hal, the 200-year-old serves some of the Velha on the island best food (see p61) Gardens @ Funchal. Enjoy a few d a few Enjoy Funchal. of pampering – complete with massage and spa treatments, and a fine restaurant, the Xôpana (see p61) A stunning complex of of complex A stunning of wood, bungalows stone and tile, high up in the menthol-scented ab forest eucalyptus ! Choupana Hills Resort Choupana Hills the end of the drive. the end of the drive. Gonçalo Funchal Monte 182 • Map H5 • 291 Monte 182 • www.charming- 780 100 hotelsmadeira.com • €€€ choupanahills.com • €€€€€ choupanahills.com H5 • 291 206 020 • www. Largo da Choupana • Map 114 Streetsmart hotelsmadeira.com •€€€ 706 700•www.charming 3•MapG6291 Dr Pita qta-bela-s-tiago.com •€€€€ qta-bela-s-tiago.com 291 204500•www.hotel- São Tiago 70•MapP6 www.portobay.com •€€€€ • MapQ5291206700 Swimming pool. at theback arequietest. the oldbuilding–those Most oftheroomsarein by Madeiranmerchants. the eleganthousesbuilt hotel isafineexample of this 150-year-old heritage club. Two poolsandhealth shopping andrestaurants. is centrallylocatedfor seafront promenadeand hotel overlooks Funchal’s city’s former shipyard, the £ @ and gym. (Old Town). Outdoorpool roofs oftheZona Velha towers andterracotta onion-domed church huge –have views ofthe Rooms –someofthem the busyheartofFunchal. a five-minute strollfrom whether you reallyarejust gardens make you wonder Birdsong andtranquil ! Left full programmeofdinner as gooditgets,with a this huge1960s hotelis astayatentertainment, If you want nightlife and $ São Tiago Quinta Bela Park Pestana Casino Set inmature gardens, Quinta Perestrello Built onthesiteof Porto SantaMaria QuintaBelaSão Tiago room d

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Rua do windsorgroup.com •€€ 291 233083•www.hotel- 4C•MapP4 das Hortas www.enotel.com •€€€ Map H6•291707010 • is very difﬁcult).is very garage(parking inFunchal having friendlystaff and a on theroof).Itscoresby (though thereisatiny pool gym orlotsofrestaurants Funchal, anddon’t needa the bustleofreal like tobeinthemidstof is popularwiththosewho es. ular folklore performanc- staff. Live musicandreg- to thefriendlinessof guests return –acredit own poolterrace. Many the rear, orthehotel’s Magnóliatoof theQuinta the quietgreengardens it hasroomsoverlooking next toabusyroad,but • www.pestana.com •€€€€ 55 •MapQ1291209100 Rua ImperatrizDona Amélia for no-frillstravellers. No hotel isawonderful retreat cheap, plainlydecorated of theEnglishChurch, this door tothelovely grounds of backstreets almost next Located inthe quietest & ^ % pool, tenniscourts. complex. Gym,sauna, ra Casinoarepartofthe Nightclub andtheMadei- Copacabana cabaret. The dances andprofessional d Gordon Residencial This good-value hotel Windsor The doSolis Quinta Quinta doSol

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damariazinha.com •€€ 220 239•www.residencial Maria 155 •MapP5 •291 Map N2•291742 194 •€ www.pestana.com •€€€€ Map H6•291239500 • jacuzzi. and asuitewithitsown with ninespaciousrooms a smartnew residence is oneoftheﬁrstresults: new business. This hotel the hopeofattracting slowly beingrestoredin Funchal’s oldeststreetis ( d or middleofthehouse. for thefrontroad, sotry the back overlook abusy A few oftheroomsat collected by theowners. is stuffed withknick-knacks Clara hung pool,theSanta garden withatiny creeper- as guests,andacobbled with almostasmany cats A houseofrealcharm, * Map N1•291742 366•€ Rua 34• doQuebraCostas d views for a lotlesseuros. Reid’s, itoffers similar hotels.Opposite ry at any ofthenearby luxu- complex isequal tothose but itsgardenandpool no prizes for architecture, behind theS This bigtower block ) Portuguese speaker. book withthehelpofa English isspoken, so

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d cabanas Cabanas de São São Jorge Jorge, Solar de Boaventura, Quinta do Lorde, Caniço de Baixo guests is the chance to to guests is the chance and tour the vineyards, with the har- help even that time of if it’s vest Heated outdoor year. pool, sauna and gym. ( from converted Tastefully a classic Madeiran house The to 1776. dating back res- The rooms are large. taurant serves local specialities. ) Almost the very last habi- tation on the eastern peninsula of the island, the luxurious Quinta do marina has its own Lorde sail- weekend attracting and voy- ors from Funchal agers from both sides of the Atlantic. Achada do Gramacho • Map do Gramacho Achada • www. H2 • 291 570 100 quintadofurao.com • €€€ * The da QuintaBeira • Map H2 • caba- 291 • www. 291 576 nasvillage. com • €€ are South African-style African-style are South rondhovels es”) set in peaceful gardens with dizzying is an This views. clifftop place to break excellent and get to journey your the north coast. know Boaventura Boaventura • Map G2 • 291 Boaventura 860 888 • www.solar- • €€ boaventura.com Piedade • Map J6 • 291 960 200 • €€€€ Price Categories Price a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra Casais Próximos Casais Próximos

d Quinta do Furão, Quinta do Furão, Santana Estalagem do Estalagem Santo Santo, Estalagem Serra Serra Estalagem Santo Golf, Casais Próximos • Map Casais Próximos Ponta da Oliveira • Map da Oliveira Ponta

towering cliffs. The lido is lido is The cliffs. towering home to the Manta Diving proportion so a fair School, the hotel of guests choose in order to be able to dive marine reserve in the rich the lido. that surrounds & at this luxurious Rooms modern hotel enjoy breathtaking along views north coast of the rugged Madeira. Built on a headland just on the edge of Santana, the hotel is sur- the vineyards rounded by Wine of the Madeira A bonus for Company. d ^ countryThis inn with indoor pool, tennis court gardens makes and pretty exploring a good base for the east of the island. It’s also close to the golf course at Santo da Serra. % and With its corner tower stone balustrades, this house eccentric 1920s into has been renovated a relaxing country hotel the located for perfectly golf Santo da Serra nearby course. d António da Serra da António António da Serra António J4 • 291 550 550 • www. enotel.com • €€ J6 • 291 930 930 • www. galoresorthotel.com • €€ • Map J4 • 291 550 500 • • €€ www.serragolf.com

d Map

d Royal d

Hotels in the East of the Island in the East Hotels

Galomar, Caniço Galomar, de Baixo Inn and Art, Art, Inn and Caniço de Baixo Royal Orchid, Orchid, Royal Caniço de Baixo

Oasis Atlantic, Oasis Caniço de Baixo

$ links the main An elevator lido hotel to an extensive at the base of Caniço’s

Rua Robert Baden Powell Powell Baden Robert Rua 61/62 • Map J6 • 291 938 • €€ 200 • www.innart.com £ son of German artist The opened Sprotte Siegward “hotel gallery” in 1991 this as a place where artists could stay, paint and dis- It has their work. play beyond since expanded villa to the original clifftop nearby include several houses that can be rent- self-catering holidays, ed for Res- complete with car. taurant, heated pool, ﬁtness centre. yoga, Travessa da Praia • Map J6 da Praia Travessa • 291 934 600 • www. • €€ hotelroyalorchid.com Orchid has almost every- Orchid in a could want thing you resort hotel, including rooms with well- and equipped kitchens balconies. sea-view @ newest One of Caniço’s luxury hotels, the ! far big resort at the This end of the hotel district has in Caniço de Baixo gym, sauna, jacuzzi, indoor and outdoor pools and courtesy bus. Royal Orchid Hotel, Caniço de Baixo Hotel, Orchid Royal

atlantic.com • €€ monumentallido.oasis J6 • 291 930 100 • www. J6 • 291 930 100 116 Streetsmart dosol.com •€€ 970 200•www.ponta- Rochinha •MapD5291 hotelsmadeira.com •€€€€ 910 530•www.charming •MapF6291 da Costa Ponta doSol since the19th century. the palm-linedesplanade façades thathave graced cleverly all theold retains to createthishotel,which seafront was redeveloped In 2002,thePonta doSol £ courtesy bus. ming pool,gymand walled Swim- restaurant. areaandtheglass- library more traditionalbarand guest quarterswiththe and towers linkmodern hotel. Distinctive bridges clifftopfrom thisstylish views ofthesetting sun Swap lightsfor brightcity @ plot. and organicvegetable gardens witholive gr are setinlandscaped Modern guestquarters food.Madeiran country serving restaurant Quinta houses the Adega da the oldwinelodgenow the barandlibrary; Vintage andgourmet restaurant setting for theBacchus The oldhouseisnow the inthearea.wine estate This was oncethemain ! Left • www.enotel.com •€€ ra •MapD5291970 140 Rua DrJoão Augusto Teixei- Câmara deLobos Quinta doEstreito, do Sol Baía doSol, Ponta Ponta doSol, Estalagem da Jardim Atlântico d

Rua José Joaquim Hotels intheWestofIsland and have ensuite bathrooms and airconditioning Note: d Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit cards,

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188 •www.qasj.cjb.net •€€ João •MapD5291974 jardimatlantico.com •€€€ B3 •291820220www. de Água de Água do Sol aristocrat. the homeofanabsent you willfeel like aguestin menu andattentive staff, dens. asetdailyWith at work inthemanorgar- hear nothingbutthebees Open your window and $ dos Vinháticos, this dos Vinháticos, valley than thePousada A little higherupthe & www.dorisol.pt •€€ Map E4•291952344 west-facing peaks. ting sunlightsupthe hotel terrace astheset- than withdrinksonthe end theday onMadeira There isnobetter way to groups ofmountains. island’s mostmajestic between twoofthe sits onasaddleofrock innThis smallcountry ^ d is amini-market onsite. kitchens, arehuge. There Rooms, completewith coast andcountryside. to explore thesurrounding Guests areencouraged hotel ispartofitscharm. The remotenessofthis % Quintado Alto deSãoJoão

Lombo daRocha •Map Encumeada, Serra Residencial Vinháticos, Serra Pousada dos Prazeres Jardim Atlântico, São João,Ponta Quinta do Alto de d

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eiradoserrado.com •€€ G4 •291710 060•www. • Map A2 •291880010 •€ • € residencialencumeada.com E4 •291951282www. Map B1•291853104 •€ Serrado Pargo Moniz cliffs Freiras and itsencircling views oftheCurral das their ﬁllofthespectacular nished roomscandrink guests inthesimplyfur- andovernightrestaurant glass, sothatdinersinthe consists ofnothingbut hotelthis smallmountain The northernfaçade of * the cliffs. between thevillage and this simplehotel west, you canunwind at If you make itthisfar ) waves. soothing soundofthe can fall asleeptothe foreshore, sothatyou built outontotherocky whose seaward walls are Porto Moniz, butnone better equippedhotels in There arelotsofnewer, ( best close tosomeofthe natural laurelforest, itis views. Surrounded by modern hotelboastsﬁne to offer. paths thattheislandhas Serrado, Eira do Estalagem Eira do Farol, Ponta do Residencial O Calhau, Porto Residencial (see p30) levada d d

d Sítio dasPoças •

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d pensões, pensões, over €200 over €150–200 under €50 under €50–100 €100–150 € (see p56) €€ €€€ and hotels in and hotels in €€€€ €€€€€

offers cheap cheap offers Hortensia Gardens:

d Madeira Rural is an is an Madeira Rural Rural Tourism Rural Budget Budget Accommodation Budget Budget Accommodation www.madeira-rural.com

d ) Astória: Rua de João Gago João de Rua Astória: Map P3. 291 223 820. € 10. Carmo do • do Centro: Rua € 20. Map P4. 291 200 510. das Hortas• Monaco: Rua N4. 291 222 667. Map 14A. das Hortas€ • Sirius: Rua € 29. Map N4. 291 226 117. da Rua Zarco: • Residencial Map P3. 291 113. Alfândega € 223 716. ( Hortensia Gardens The (see p79) accommodation within its peaceful gardens. Boa Vista Orchids cottage has a thatched At O Escondid- three. for inho das Canas in San- tana, can sleep in a you traditional A-shaped cottage. * are clean, following The quiet and cheap residenciais the heart of town. online booking agent for online booking agent for 20 or so properties around the island, from converted buildings to cottages. farm Outside of Funchal in Funchal www.madeiraisland.com/ hotels/self catering apartments/hortensia. € • Boa Quinta da Boa Vista Orchids: da Boa Lombo Vista, Rua Map H5. 291 Vista, Funchal. 220 468. €€ • O Escondidin- António ho das Canas: Pico Santana. Map Fernandes, € H2. 291 572 319. way www.

d Price Categories Price a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra Estrada do Porto Porto

d d Boa Morte, São Boa

d Camping camping is Officially, Bed-and-breakfast English-style bed-and- Rental Agencies carry websites Two rooms. & ^ % illegal on Madeira, except illegal on Madeira, except at two designated sites. Moniz, One is at Porto are facilities where new The under construction. Santo, other is on Porto Praia Torre alongside the booking Hotel – advance is recommended in July and August. breakfast has been taken has been taken breakfast and Trevor to Madeira by their Trejuno, Franks. June guesthouse, is mid between Funchal and and between Funchal tips, free Walking Monte. and inside airport pickup, information. links to self-catering links to self-catering rent accommodation for Madeira the week: by Online and Madeira Island. The Summer Bureau has details of and apartments, studios in largely bungalows, Caniço de Baixo. João • Map E5 • 291 910 910 • Map E5 • 291 João 530 • www.charminghotels- madeira.com • €€ Moniz tourist office: 291 Moniz tourist office: Santo • Porto 850 193 • € campsite: 291 982 160 Livramento 94 • Map H5 • 291 783 268 • www.tjwalk- ing-madeira.com • €€ madeiraonline.com • www. madeira-island.com • Sum- D Frances- mer Bureau: Rua co Sanatana, Caniço de Map J6. 291 934 519 Baixo. .

d (see p112) Estrada Monu-

d Self-catering and Budget Hotels and Budget Self-catering

Quinta Vale Quinta Vale Til, do Campanário Avenue Park, Park, Avenue Funchal Monumental Lido, Monumental Lido, Funchal Suite Hotel Eden Hotel Suite Funchal Mar, Rua do Gorgulho 2 • do Gorgulho 2 • Rua

$ self-catering, rural For Til has do Vale the Quinta the advantage of being pri- located on its own estate. vate It sleeps double bed- eight, in four

Avda do Infante 26D • Map do Infante Avda Q1 • 291 205 630 • www. madeiraapartments.com/ • €€ avenuepark

£ spacious, light and The apartment well-furnished rooms at this self-catering establishment close to the centre of down- are a real Funchal town bargain. The underground garage is a bonus. The well-priced rooms at rooms at well-priced The this apartment hotel in sep- the Hotel Zone have and living arate kitchens areas; bedrooms face onto a quiet inner atrium. Shops and the Lido are nearby. @ d ! Eden Mar offers The self-catering good-value rooms in well-furnished It with small kitchens. to access also provides best one of Madeira’s the resort complexes, Mare Porto Avenue Park self-catering apartments self-catering Park Avenue Map G6 • 291 709 700 • • €€€ www.edenmar.com mental 284 • Map G6 • 291 724 000 • www.monumentallido.com • €€€ General Index

A Barros & Abreu Irmãos Câmara, Simão Gonçalves A Brisa do Mar (Caniçal) 91 (Funchal) 57 de 11 A Cicade do Açúcar (City of Bar Amerelo (Caniçal) 91 Câmara de Lobos 46, 75 Sugar Museum, Funchal) bars, budget travel 109 restaurants 79 38, 39, 65 Bazar do Povo (Funchal) 69 hotels 116 Abreu, João Carlos 14 beachcombing 98 Câmara Municipal (Funchal) Acciaiuoli, Simon 11 beaches 46–7, 94 42, 65 Adegas de São Francisco The Beatles 53 Campanário 117 (Funchal) 6, 12–13, 38, 39, bed and breakfast 117 camping 117 58 beggars 111 Caniçal 47, 87, 89 adventure sports 49, 106 Berardo, José 29 museums 39 Afonso Henriques, King of Beresford, General 25 restaurants 91 Portugal 28 bicycles 98 Caniço de Baixo 47, 87 aguardente (sugar cane bird-watching 49, 88, 90 hotels 113, 115 General Index spirit) 110 Blanc, Raymond 60 restaurants 91 air travel 103, 109 Blandy, Charles Ridpath Capela de Santa Catarina Airport Shop (Funchal) 59 25 (Funchal) 42 Alfândega (Customs House, Blandy, John 24, 25 Capela do Corpo Santo Funchal) 42, 65 Blandy, Mildred 24 (Funchal) 43, 65 Almeida, Constança de 42 Blandy family 12, 24, 25, 89 Capela do Loreto (Loreto) 41 ambulances 104 Boa Vista (Funchal) 56 Capela dos Milagres Anes, Pêro 8, 40, 42 boats (Machico) 41 Anes, Rodrigo 41 boat trips 48 Carlton Madeira (Funchal) Anne of Hertford 37, 41 cruises 103 114 Anthony of Padua, St 41, 42 ferries to Porto Santo 103 Carmo Quarter (Funchal) 65 Antiques Quarter (Funchal) sailing 98 Carnival 54 69 Boaventura 78 cars Antwerp School 11 hotels 115 breakdowns 104 Anunciação, Tomás da 15, Boca do Cais (Funchal) 61 car hire 98, 103, 111 38 Boca da Encumeada 80, 81 driving 103 Apartamentos Navio Azul bolo de mel (Christmas fly/drive holidays 106 (Funchal) 43 cake) 110 Carvalhal, Count of 15 Arcadas de São Francisco book shops 57 Câmara Municipal (Funchal) 69 Bouts, Dieric 11 (Funchal) 42 architecture, flamboyant 43 Brasserie (Funchal) 60, 71 Casa Velha do Palheiro Arco da Calheta 84 breakfast 108 (São Gonçalo) 61, 113 Arco Velho (Funchal) 71 budget hotels 117 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro Armada (Funchal) 60 budget travel 109 24, 75 Arsénios (Funchal) 71 buildings Casa de Abrigo de Poiso art, Flemish 11 flamboyant 43 (Poiso Pass) 79 Artur de Barros e Sousa historic 42–3 Casa do Chá “O Fío” (Ponta (Funchal) 58 buses 103, 107, 109 do Pargo) 85 As Vides (Estreito de Casa do Turista (Funchal) Câmara de Lobos) 79 C 69 Assumption in Monte 54–5 Cabanas de São Jorge (São Casa Museu Cristóvão Atlantic Festival 54 Jorge) 115 Colombo (Porto Santo) 95 Avenida Arriaga (Funchal) 66 cable car station 43 Casa Museu Frederico de Avenue Park (Funchal) 117 cable cars 26, 27, 53 Freitas (Funchal) 38–9, 66 Cabo Girão 75 Casa Velha do Palheiro (São B Café do Museu (Funchal) 10 Gonçalo) 61, 113 Baia do Sol (Ponta do Sol) cake shops 56 cash machines 105 116 Caldeirão Verde 78 Casino da Madeira (Funchal) Baiana (Porto Santo) 99 Calheta 82 43, 70 Balcões 77 California (Garajau) 91 Castle Peak (Porto Santo) 97 balloon rides 48 Camacha 89 Cathedral (Sé, Funchal) 6, Banco de Portugal (Funchal) restaurants 91 8–9, 40, 67 43, 66 shops 56 Cathedral Quarter (Funchal) banking 102, 105 Câmara, João Gonçalves de 65 Barbeito, Mário 58 40 Catherine of Braganza 36

118 caves 52 Cristo Rei (Christ the Esmeraldo, João 45, 65, 84 ceilings, knotwork 9 Redeemer) 41, 84, 87 Estalagem da Ponta do Sol Cemitério Britânico Crowne Plaza (Funchal) 112 (Ponta do Sol) 116 (Funchall) 68 cruises 103 Estalagem do Santo (Santo Central Madeira 74–9 Curral das Freiras 7, 30–31, da Serra) 115

hotels 113 76 Estalagem Eira do Serrado General Index map 74 historic buildings 42 (Eira do Serrado) 116 restaurants 79 restaurants 79 Estalagem Serra Golf (Santo Chamber of Commerce currency 105 da Serra) 115 (Funchal) 43 customs and excise 102 estalagens (inns) 108 Chameleon Music Bar cycling 98 Estreito de Câmara de Lobos (Funchal) 70 restaurants 79 character hotels 112–13 D Estrela do Norte (Porto Charles I, Emperor of Austria dance, folk 70 Santo) 99 7, 27, 37, 41 David, Gerard 11 Charles II, King of England deep-sea fishing 48, 106 F 36 Desert Isles 36, 88 fado 56 charter flights 109 Diogos Wine Shop (Funchal) Faial 77, 78 children 52–3 58 family holidays 53 in hotels 108 Discoteca Vespas (Funchal) Fanal 84 Choupana Hills Resort and 70 Ferreira, Adam 27 Spa 61, 113 discounts 108, 109 festivals 54–5 Christ the Redeemer (Cristo diving 49, 98, 106 field guides 107 Rei) 41, 84, 87 Doca do Cavacas (Funchal) fire service 104 Christmas 54, 102 71 Fishermens’ Chapel (Curral churches 40–41, 102 dog bites 104 das Freiras) 42 Churchill, Winston 37, 46 D’Oliveiras (Funchal) 58 fishing 48, 106 Churrascaria O Lagar dolphin watching 49, 52, 90 flamboyant buildings 43 (Câmara de Lobos) 79 dos Passos, John 84 Flemish art 11 cinemas 53 dragon trees 21, 36 Fleur de Lys (Funchal) 60 Clare, St 41 driving in Madeira 103 flowers 22, 45 Cliff Bay (Funchal) 112 Eastern Madeira 89 Flower Festival 54 climate 102 Porto Santo 97 shopping 110 clothes, what to pack 102 Western Madeira 83 fly/drive holidays 106 Clube Naval 47 duty free shopping 110 folk music and dance 70 Coleridge, H N 30 Fonte da Areia (Porto Santo) Columbus, Christopher 37 E 97 A Cicade do Açúcar É pra Picanha (Funchal) 71 food and drink 61 (Funchal) 38, 39 Eanes, Senhorina 11 budget travel 109 Casa Museu Cristóvão Easter 102 picnics 107 Colombo (Porto Santo) 95 Eastern Madeira 86–91 see also restaurants Cathedral Quarter drive in 89 football 52 (Funchal) 65 Garajau Marine Reserve Fortaleza de São Tiago Diogos Wine Shop 90 (Funchal) 65, 68 (Funchal) 58 hotels 115 Fortaleza do Pico (Funchal) Jetty (Porto Santo) 96 map 86 66, 68 Museu Barbeito Cristóvão restaurants 91 Fountain of Sand (Porto Colombo (Funchal) 68 Eatwell (Funchal) 71 Santo) 97 statue of 44 Ecological Park 32 França, Isabella de 30 communications 105 Eira do Serrado 30, 79 Francis, St 41, 44 Complexo Balnear de hotels 116 Franciscan order 16 Barreirinha 47 electricity 102 Franco, Francisco 39, 43, 44 Conrado, Martím 95 embroidery 110 Franco, Henrique 39 consulates 102 emergencies 104 Freitas Museum (Funchal) Convento de Santa Clara Encumeada Pass 31, 80, 81 38–9, 66, 67 (Funchal) 16–17, 30 Enes, Gil 8 Funchal 64–71 Cook, Captain James 37, 45 entertainment Adegas de São Francisco country hotels 108 budget travel 109 6, 12–13, 38, 39, 58 credit cards 105 Funchal 70 budget hotels 117 cribs, Christmas 54 Escola Profissional de Cathedral (Sé) 6, 8–9, 40, crime 104 Hotelaria (São Martinho) 79 67

119 Funchal (cont.) Hemingway, Ernest 28 Jardim do Mar 46, 82 churches 40 Henriques & Henriques restaurants 85 consulates 102 (Câmara de Lobos) 59 Jardim dos Loiros (Funchal) Convento de Santa Clara Henry the Navigator, Prince 20 16–17, 30 36, 44 Jardim Orquídea (Funchal) festivals 54 Hilton, James 30 20, 56 ﬂamboyant buildings 43 historic buildings 42–3 Jardins do Lago (Funchal) historic buildings 42–3 history 36–7 113 history 36, 37 holidays, public 102 Jasmin Tea House (São hotels 112, 113, 114 honeymoons 106 Gonçalo) 79 Jardim Botânico 7, 20–21, horse riding 49, 98 Jesuits 40 45, 75 Hortensia Gardens Tea Jetty (Porto Santo) 96 map 64 House (São Gonçalo) 79 João, Micer 40 Mercado dos Lavradores 7, Hospício Princesa Dona John I, King of Portugal 36 18–19 Maria Maélia (Funchal) 45 John Paul II, Pope 8, 27, 41 Museu de Arte Sacra 6, Hotel Zone (Funchal) 67 Jungle Rain (Sítio do Ovil) 85 General Index 10–11, 38, 39, 65 hotels 108, 112–17 Museu da Quinta das budget travel 117 K Cruzes 6, 14–15, 38, 39, character hotels 112–13 Kidd, Captain 37 66 children in 53 knotwork ceilings 9 nights out 70 city-centre hotels 114 restaurants 60–61, 71 Eastern Madeira 115 L self-catering 117 Porto Santo 99 La Perla (Caniço de Baixo) shopping 56–7, 69 Western Madeira 116 91 tourist ofﬁce 102 House of the Consuls Ladislaw III, King of Portugal walk 67 (Funchal) 42 11, 37 wine outlets 58–9 Huston, John 87 Lagar d’Ajuda (Funchal) 59 languages 102 G I Laurence, St 41 Galerias São Lourenço IBTAM, 65, 68 leather goods 57, 110 (Funchal) 69 Ignatius Loyola, St 41 Lefort, Didier 61 galleries see museums and Igreja da São Pedro (Funchal) Leopoldina, Archduchess of galleries 40, 66 Austria 25 Gallery (Caniço de Baixo) 91 Igreja do Colégio (Funchal) Levada dos Tornos 51 Galomar Lido (Caniço de 40, 65 levadas 50–51, 107 Baixo) 87, 115 Igreja do Nossa Senhora do Lido (Funchal) 47, 68 Gand, Olivier de 9 Conceição (Machico) 40 Livraria Esperança (Funchal) Garajau 47, 87 Igreja Inglesa (English 57 Marine Reserve 90 Church, Funchal) 42, 66 Livraria Pátio (Funchal) 57 restaurants 91 Ilhas Desertas 36, 88 Lobos Mar (Câmara de Garden Gazebo (Funchal) 43 Ilhas Selvagens 88 Lobos) 79 gardens see parks and Ilhéu de Baixo 96 lobsters 111 gardens Inn and Art (Caniço de Baixo) Loja dos Vinhos (Funchal) 58 GB Airways 103 115 Lombada 84 geology 33 insect bites 104 Lombo dos Reis 84 George II, King of England insurance 104 Lomelino, Urbano 15 42 internet 105 Lomelino family 14, 15 gifts 57 irrigation channels 50–51 Lopes, Gregório 40 golf 48, 98, 106 Loreto 41 Grutas de São Vicente 52 J Luamar Hotel (Porto Santo) guided tours 111 James, St 54 99 budget travel 109 Jardim Atlântico (Prazeres) Lugar de Baixo 84 levadas 51 85, 116 guides, walking 107 Jardim Botânico (Funchal) 7, M Guild of São Pedro 20–21, 45, 75 Machico 87, 89 Gonçalves 43 Jardim da Serra churches 40–41 hotels 113 restaurants 91 H Jardim de Santa Catarina Machin, Robert 37, 41 half-board 108 (Funchal) 44 Madeira Board of Tourism health 104 Jardim de São Francisco 102 helicopter rides 48 (Funchal) 44 Madeira Palacio (Funchal) 113

120 Madeira Shopping (Funchal) museums and galleries (cont.) O Pátio (Ribeira Brava) 85 69 Museu Barbeito Cristóvão O Relógio (Camacha) 56, 89, Madeira University (Funchal) Colombo (Funchal) 68 91 43, 65 Museu de Arte O Virgilio (São Vicente) 85 Madeira wine see wine Contemporânea (Funchal) Oasis Atlantic (Caniço de

Madeira Wine Company 13, 65, 68 Baixo) 115 General Index 59 Museu de Arte Sacra O’Farol (Funchal) 70 Manuel I, King of Portugal 14 (Funchal) 6, 10–11, 38, 39, opening hours 102 Cathedral (Funchal) 8, 10 65, 67 Orca (Porto Moniz) 85 Igreja da Nossa Senhora Museu da Baleia (Caniçal) Our Lady of Monte 41 da Conceição (Machico) 40 39, 87 Our Lady of Terreiro da Luta maps 51, 107, 111 Museu do Brinquedo (Toy 41 Mar e Sol (Porto Santo) 99 Museum, Funchal) 68 outdoor activities 48–9, 98 Marcelino Pão e Vinho Museu de Electricidade (Funchal) 70 “Casa da Luz” (Funchal) 68 P Maria Amélia, Princess 45 Museu do Instituto do Palácio de São Lourenço Marina (Funchal) 53, 67 Vinho da Madeira (Funchal) 66, 68 Marina Shopping Centre (Funchal) 68 Palheiro Ferreiro, Quinta do (Funchal) 69 Museu da Quinta das 7, 24–5, 45, 75 Marina Terrace (Funchal) 71 Cruzes (Funchal) 6, 14–15, parks and gardens 44–5, 106 medical treatment 104 38, 39, 66 Hospício Princesa Dona Mercado dos Lavradores Museu Etnográﬁco da Maria Amélia (Funchal) 45 (Funchal) 7, 18–19, 69 Madeira (Ribeira Brava) Jardim Botânico (Funchal) Mercado Velha (Machico) 91 39, 81, 83 7, 20–21, 45, 75 mineral water 96 Museu Henrique e Jardim de Santa Catarina Miradouro de Portela Francisco Franco (Funchal) (Funchal) 44 (Portela) 91 39, 65 Jardim de São Francisco mobile phones 105, 107 Museu Municipal e (Funchal) 44 money 105 Aquário (Funchal) 38, 39, 66 Jardim Orquídea (Funchal) Moniz, Filipa 95 Museu Photographia 20, 56 Monte 7, 26–7, 77 Vicentes (Funchal) 38, 39, Monte Palace Tropical cable cars 26, 27, 53 66 Garden (Monte) 28–9, 44 festivals 54–5 Núcleo Museológico do Museu da Quinta das hotels 113 Bordado (Funchal) 68 Cruzes (Funchal) 14 restaurants 60 Palácio de São Lourenço Parque do Monte 27 walk 75 (Funchal) 66, 68 Quinta das Cruzes Monte Palace 29 music 57, 70 (Funchal) 44 Monte Palace Tropical Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro Garden (Monte) 28–9, 44 N 7, 24–5, 45, 75 Montluc, Bertrand de 31, 68 Napoleon I, Emperor 25, 36, Quinta Magnólia (Funchal) Monumental Lido (Funchal) 37, 42 44 117 Natural History Museum Quinta Palmeira (Funchal) Morais family 40 (Funchal) 20 45 mountain walks 107 Nelson, Lord 42 Quinta Vigia (Funchal) 44 Mourarolim, João de 40 New Year 54, 102 Parrot Park (Funchal) 20, 21, Murray, Charles 29 newspapers 105 53 museums and galleries 38–9 noise, in hotels 108 passeio 70 opening hours 102 Noronha, Constança de passports 102 A Cicade do Açúcar (City 16 Pastipan (Santa Cruz) 91 of Sugar Museum, Noronha, Isabel de 16 Pátio (Funchal) 43 Funchal) 38, 39, 65 Nossa Senhora da Piedade Patricio & Gouveia (Funchal) Adegas de São Francisco (Vila Baleira) 55, 95 56 (Funchal) 12–13, 38 Núcleo Museológico do Paúl do Mar 84 Casa Museu Cristóvão Bordado (Funchal) 68 Paúl da Serra 33, 82–3 Colombo (Porto Santo) 95 Nun’s Valley (Curral das Pé na Água (Porto Santo) 99 Casa Museu Frederico de Freiras) 79 Peck, Gregory 87 Freitas (Funchal) 38–9, 66 Pedro I, Emperor of Brazil 25 Fortaleza do Pico (Funchal) O Pele Leather (Funchal) 57 68 O Barqueiro (Funchal) 71 Penha de Águia 77, 78 Freitas Museum (Funchal) O Cachalote (Porto Moniz) 85 Pensão Central (Porto Santo) 67 O Calhetas (Porto Santo) 99 99

121 Pereira, Manuel 10 Porto Santo Hotel (Porto R Perestrelo, Bartolomeu 36 Santo) 99 Rabaçal 51, 83 Pestana, Pedro de Brito Portuguese National Tourist Reid, William 37, 112 Oliveira 9 Office 102 Reid family 20 Pestana Casino Park post offices 105 Reid’s (Funchal) 47, 60 (Funchal) 114 Pousada dos Vinháticos Reid’s Palace (Funchal) 112 Pestana Grand (Funchal) 112 (Serra de Água) 85, 116 religious figures 41 pharmacies 104 Praça do Município (Funchal) rental agencies, self-catering phones 105, 107 67 accommodation 117 picnics 107 Praia dos Reis Magos 47, 91 Residencial Calhau (Porto Pico de Ana Ferreira (Porto Praia Formosa 46 Moniz) 116 Santo) 96, 97 Prainha 46–7 Residencial Encumeada Pico do Arieiro 7, 32–3, 52, Prazeres 84 (Serra de Água) 116 76, 77 hotels 116 Residencial Gordon (Funchal) Pico do Castelo (Porto restaurants 85 114 Santo) 97 Ptolemy 21 Residencial da Mariazinha General Index Pico do Cavalho 31 public holidays 102 (Funchal) 114 Pico da Serradhino 31 Residencial O Farol Pico Grande 31 Q (Ponta do Pargo) 116 Pico Ruivo 52, 77 Queimadas 78 Residencial Santa Clara Pimental, Maria de 11 Quinta do Alto de São João (Funchal) 114 pirates 31 (Ponta do Sol) 116 Restaurante Ribeiro Frio 77 Pires, Diogo 10 Quinta Bela de São Tiago restaurants 60–61 Pizza N’Areia (Porto Santo) (Funchal) 114 budget travel 109 99 Quinta da Bela Vista Central Madeira 79 plants 22–3, 33, 45 (Funchal) 113 Eastern Madeira 91 playgrounds 53 Quinta da Casa Branca Funchal 71 Pliny the Elder 36 (Funchal) 60, 112 Porto Santo 99 Poço da Neve 32 Quinta das Cruzes (Funchal) things to avoid 111 Poiso Pass 79 44, 67 Western Madeira 85 police 104 Quinta do Estreito (Câmera see also food and drink Ponta da Calheta (Porto de Lobos) 116 Ribeira Brava 81, 83 Santo) 96, 97 Quinta do Furão (Santana) churches 41 Ponta de São Lourenço 33, 59, 115 museums 39 88 Quinta do Jardim do Serra restaurants 85 Ponta Delgada 55, 78 (Jardim do Serra) 113 Ribeira da Janela 83, 84 Ponta do Pargo 82 Quinta do Lorde (Caniço de Ribeiro Frio 52, 76, 77 hotels 116 Baixo) 115 roads 103 restaurants 85 Quinta Magnólia (Funchal) Rodrigues, João 18 Ponta do Sol 46, 84 44, 47 romantic holidays 106 churches 41 Quinta do Monte (Monte) 27, Romer, Max 13, 39, 95 hotels 116 60, 113 Rouen, Jean de 29 Ponta Gorda 47 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro 7, Royal Orchid (Caniço de Poor Clares 16 24–5, 45, 75 Baixo) 115 Portela 88 Quinta Palmeira (Funchal) 45 Rua da Carreira (Funchal) 43, restaurants 91 Quinta da Penha de França 66, 67 Porto da Cruz 47, 78, 82 (Funchal) 112 Rua da Mouraria (Funchal) Porto Mare (Funchal) 112 Quinta Perestrello (Funchal) 43 Porto Moniz 46, 53, 81, 83 114 Rua das Murças (Funchal) 69 hotels 116 Quinta do Sol (Funchal) 114 Rua Dr. Fernão Ornelas restaurants 85 Quinta Splendida (Caniço) (Funchal) 69 Porto Santa Maria (Funchal) 113 rural tourism 108, 117 114 Quinta Vale do Til Porto Santo 36, 53, 94–9 (Campanário) 117 S activities 98 Quinta Vigia (Funchal) 44 sailing 98 beaches 47, 95 Quinta das Vistas (Funchal) Santa Catarina Airport 103 drive in 97 113 Santa Clara (Funchal) 17, 40, hotels 99 quintas (manor houses) 43, 66 map 94 108 Santa Cruz 87, 89 restaurants 99 Quintinha de São João churches 40 travel to 103 (Funchal) 113 restaurants 91

122 Santa Cruz Lido 47 T Villa Cipriani (Funchal) 60 Santa Maria de Colombo 52 Taj Mahal (Funchal) 71 Vincent, St 41 Santana 76–7 TAP Air Portugal 103 Vinhos Barbeito (Funchal) 58 hotels 115 Tarmar (Jardim do Mar) 85 visas 102 wine outlets 59 Tavares, Edmundo 18

Santo António (nr Ribeira taxis 103 W General Index Brava) 85 fares 109, 111 walking 48, 51, 107 Santo António da Serra sightseeing 98, 103 in Funchal 67 (Santo da Serra) 33, 89 walking trips 107 in Monte 75 hotels 115 Teatro Municipal (Funchal) walking holidays 106 São Bento (Ribeira Brava) 41 70 water São Gonçalo telephones 105, 107 drinking 102 hotels 113 television 105 levadas 50–51 restaurants 61, 79 tennis 48 mineral water 96 São Jorge 46, 78 Terreiro da Luta 78 waterfalls 51, 78 hotels 115 Thatcher, Margaret 37, 112 watersports 98 São Martinho 79 Theatre Café (Funchal) 70 weather 102 São Pedro (Funchal) 66 time zone 102 Wellington, Duke of 42 São Roque de Faial 78 timeshare touts 111 Western Madeira 80–85 São Salvador (Santa Cruz) 40 Tivoli Ocean Park (Funchal) drive in 83 São Vicente 33, 81, 83 112 hotels 116 restaurants 85 toboggans, Monte 26, 28 map 80 Savoy Classic (Funchal) 112 Torre Praia Hotel (Porto restaurants 85 Savoy Royal (Funchal) 47, 112 Santo) 99 whale watching 49, 90 scrimshaw 39, 110 Tourist House (Funchal) 56 whalebone ivory 39, 110 sea views, hotel rooms 108 tourist information centres when to go 102 Seafront (Funchal) 67 111 Wild Islands 88 security 104 tourist ofﬁces 102 wildlife Seixal 81 Tower House (Funchal) 42 ﬁeld guides 107 self-catering accommodation Town Hall (Funchal) 65 marine wildlife 49, 90 117 Toyota car showroom specialist holidays 106 Senhora da Luz (Ponta do (Funchal) 43, 66 Wilson, Mary Jane 41 Sol) 41 travel 103, 109 Wind Car Rental 103 Serra de Água 83 trout farm 52 Windsor (Funchal) 114 hotels 116 tunnels 51 wine 36 restaurants 85 Adegas de São Francisco Shakespeare, William 36 U (Funchal) 6, 12–13, 38, 58 Shaw, George Bernard 37 Underwood, Pat and John festivals 55 shopping 110 50–51 shopping 110 children’s attractions 53 UNESCO terminology 59 Funchal 69 World Heritage Sites 23, wine outlets 58–9 opening hours 102 37, 88 woodland, primeval 23 Porto Santo 98 World Natural Heritage 78 woodland walks 107 shopping centres 110 University Quarter (Funchal) specialist shops 56–7 65 X sightseeing tours 98 Universo de Memórias Xôpana (Choupana Hills Silva, Isabel 11 (Funchal) 14 Resort) 61 Silva, Vincent Gomes da 38 Sítio do Ovil 85 V Z Solar de Boaventura Valentim de Carvalho Zarco, Captain João (Boaventura) 115 (Funchal) 57 Gonçalves 15, 16, 36 spa therapy 104, 106 Van Aelst 11 Machico 87 specialist holidays 106 Van Cleve, Joost 11 Museu da Quinta das specialist shops 56–7 Vasconcelos, Martim Cruzes (Funchal) 6, 14, 15 sports 48–9, 98 Mendes de 17 Porto Santo 94 sugar mills 82 Vaz Teixeira, Tristão 15, 36, 87 ship 41 Suite Hotel Eden Mar Veitch, Henry 68 Zarco Monument 17, 43 (Funchal) 117 Vicentes Museum (Funchal) Zarco’s (Funchal) 71 sun protection 104 38, 39, 66 Zimbralinho (Porto Santo) supermarkets 110 Vila Baleira (Porto Santo) 95, 96–7 swimming pools 47, 53 97 Zona Velha (Funchal) 65, 67

123 Phrase Book

In an Emergency Sightseeing Help! Socorro! soo-koh-roo cathedral sé seh Stop! Páre! pahr’ church igreja ee-gray-juh Call a! Chame um shahm’ ooñ garden jardim jar-deeñ doctor! médico! meh-dee-koo library biblioteca bee-blee-oo- Call an Chame uma shahm’ teh-kuh ambulance! ambulância! oo-muh museum museu moo-zeh-oo añ-boo-lañ- tourist posto de posh-too d’ see-uh information turismo too-reesh-moo Call the Chame a shahm’ uh closed for fechado para fe-sha-doo police! polícia! poo-lee-see-uh holidays férias puh-ruh feh- Call the ﬁre Chame os shahm’ oosh ree-ash brigade! bombeiros! bom-bay- bus station estação de shta-sowñ d’ oh- roosh autocarros too-kah-roosh

Phrase Book Where is Há um ah ooñ te-le- railway station estação de shta-sowñ d’ the nearest telefone fon’ uh-kee comboios koñ-boy-oosh telephone? aqui perto? pehr-too Where is Onde é o ond’ eh oo azulejo uh-zoo-lay-joo painted ceramic the nearest hospital mais ohsh-pee- tile hospital? próximo? tahl’ mysh Manuelino ma-noo-el-ee-noo Manueline (late pro-see-moo Gothic architectural style) Communication Essentials Yes Sim seeñ Useful Words No Não nowñ big grande grand’ Please Por favor/ poor fuh-vor small pequeno pe-keh-noo Faz favor fash fuh-vor hot quente kent’ Thank you Obrigado/da o-bree-gah- cold frio free-oo doo/duh good bom boñ Excuse me Desculpe dish-koolp’ bad mau mah-oo Hello Olá oh-lah enough bastante bash-tant’ Goodbye Adeus a-deh-oosh well bem bayñ Good morning Bom-dia boñ dee-uh open aberto a-behr-too Good afternoon Boa-tarde boh-uh tard’ closed fechado fe-shah-doo Good night Boa-noite boh-uh noyt’ left esquerda shkehr-duh Yesterday Ontem oñ-tayñ right direita dee-ray-tuh Today Hoje ohj’ straight on em frente ayñ frent’ Tomorrow Amanhã ah-man yañ near perto pehr-too Here Aqui uh-kee far longe loñj’ There Ali uh-lee up suba soo-bah What? O quê? oo keh down desça deh-shuh Which? Qual? kwahl’ early cedo seh-doo When? Quando? kwañ-doo late tarde tard’ Why? Porquê? poor-keh entrance entrada en-trah-duh Where? Onde? oñd’ exit saída sa-ee-duh toilets casa de banho kah-zuh d’ Useful Phrases ban-yoo How are you? Como está? koh-moo shtah more mais mysh Very well, Bem, bayñ o-bree less menos meh-noosh thank you. obrigado/da. gah-doo/duh Pleased to Encantado/da. eñ-kañ-tah-doo/ Shopping meet you duh How much Quanto kwan-too See you soon. Até logo. uh-teh loh-goo does this cost? custa isto? koosh-tuh That’s ﬁne. Está bem. shtah bayñ eesh-too Where is/are…? Onde está/ ond’ shtah/ I would like … Queria … kree-uh estão…? shtowñ I’m just looking. Estou só a ver shtoh soh uh How far is A que distância uh kee dish-tañ- obrigado/a. vehr o-bree- it to…? ﬁca…? see-uh fee-kuh gah-doo/uh Which way Como se vai koh-moo seh vy Do you take Aceita cartões uh-say-tuh kar- to…? para…? puh-ruh credit cards? de crédito? toinsh de Do you speak Fala Inglês? fah-luh eeñ- kreh-dee-too? English? glehsh What time do A que horas uh kee oh-rash I don’t Não compreendo. nowñ kom-pree- you open? abre? ah-bre? understand. en-doo What time do A que horas uh kee oh-rash I’m sorry. Desculpe. dish-koolp’ you close? fecha? fay-shuh? Could you Pode falar pohd’ fuh-lar this one este ehst’ speak more mais devagar mysh d’-va-gar that one esse ehss’ slowly please? por favor? poor fah-vor expensive caro kah-roo

124 cheap barato buh-rah-too The bill, please. A conta por uh kohn-tuh size (clothes/ número noom’-roo favor/faz favor. poor fuh-vor/ shoes) fash fuh-vor white branco brañ-koo the menu a lista uh leesh-tuh black preto preh-too fixed-price a ementa uh ee-mehn- red roxo roh-shoo menu turística tuh too-reesh- Phrase Book yellow amarelo uh-muh-reh- tee-kuh loo wine list a lista de vinhos uh leesh-tuh green verde vehrd’ de veen-yoosh blue azul uh-zool’ glass um copo ooñ koh-poo bottle uma garrafa oo-muh guh- Types of Shop rah-fuh antique shop loja de loh-juh de half bottle meia-garrafa may-uh guh- antiguidades an-tee-gwee- rah-fuh dahd’sh knife uma faca oo-mah fah- bakery padaria pah-duh-ree- kuh uh fork um garfo ooñ gar-foo bank banco bañ-koo spoon uma colher oo-muh kool- bookshop livraria lee-vruh-ree-uh yair butcher talho tah-lyoo plate um prato ooñ prah-too cake shop pastelaria pash-te-luh- breakfast pequeno-almoço pe-keh-noo-ahl- ree-uh moh-soo chemist farmácia far-mah-see-uh lunch almoço ahl-moh-soo fishmonger peixaria pay-shuh-ree-uh dinner jantar jan-tar hair dresser cabelereiro kab’-lay-ray-roo cover couvert koo-vehr market mercado mehr-kah-doo starter entrada en-trah-duh newsagent kiosque kee-yohsk’ main course prato principal prah-too post office correios koo-ray-oosh prin-see-pahl’ shoe shop sapataria suh-puh-tuh- dish of the day prato do dia prah-too doo ree-uh dee-uh supermarket supermercado soo-pehr-mer- set dish combinado koñ-bee-nah- kah-doo doo tobacconist tabacaria tuh-buh-kuh- half portion meia-dose may-uh doh-se ree-uh dessert sobremesa soh-bre-meh- travel agency agência de uh-jeñ-see-uh zuh viagens de vee-ah- rare mal passado mahl’ puh-sah- jayñsh doo medium médio meh-dee-oo Staying in a Hotel well done bem passado bayñ puh-sah- Do you have Tem um quarto tayñ ooñ doo a vacant room? livre? kwar-too leevr’ Menu Decoder room with um quarto com ooñ kwar-too abacate uh-buh-kaht’ avocado a bath casa de banho koñ kah-zuh d’ açorda uh-sor-duh bread- and ban-yoo garlic-based shower duche doosh soup single room quarto individual kwar-too een- açúcar uh-soo-kuhr sugar dee-vee-doo- água mineral ah-gwuh mee- mineral water ahl’ ne-rahl’ double room quarto de casal kwar-too d’ alho ahl-yoo garlic kuh-zhal’ alperce ahl’-pehrce apricot twin room quarto com duas kwar-too koñ amêijoas uh-may-joo-ush clams camas doo-ash kah- ananás uh-nuh-nahsh pineapple mash anona ah-noh-nah custard apple porter porteiro poor-tay-roo arroz uh-rohsh rice key chave shahv’ assado uh-sah-doo baked I have a Tenho um quarto tayn-yoo ooñ atum uh-tooñ tuna reservation. reservado. kwar-too aves ah-vesh poultry re-ser-vah-doo azeite uh-zayt’ olive oil azeitonas uh-zay-toh-nash olives Eating Out bacalhau buh-kuh-lyow dried, salted cod Have you Tem uma tayñ oo-muh banana buh-nah-nuh banana got a table mesa meh-zuh puh- batatas buh-tah-tash potatoes for …? para … ? ruh batatas fritas buh-tah-tash french fries I am a Sou Soh ve-je-tuh- free-tash vegetarian. vegetariano/a. ree-ah-noo/uh batido buh-tee-doo milk-shake Waiter! Por favor!/ poor fuh-vor bica bee-kuh espresso Faz favor! fash fuh-vor bife beef steak I’d like to Quero reservar keh-roo bolacha boo-lah-shuh biscuit reserve a table. una mesa. re-zehr-var oo- bolo boh-loo cake muh meh-zuh bolo de caco boh-loo d’ kah-koh Madeiran bread

125 caça kah-ssuh game tamboril tam-boo-ril’ monkfish café kuh-feh coffee tarte tart’ pie/cake camarões kuh-muh-roysh large prawns tamarilho tahm-ah-reel-yoo tomarillo carangueijo kuh-rañ gay-yoo crab tomate too-maht’ tomato carne karn’ meat torrada too-rah-duh toast castanhas cash-tahn-yush chestnuts tosta tohsh-tuh toasted cebola se-boh-luh onion sandwich cerejas sehr-ray-jahs cherries vinagre vee-nah-gre vinegar cerveja sehr-vay-juh beer vinho branco veen-yoo brañ-koo white wine chá shah tea vinho tinto veen-yoo teen-too red wine cherne shern’ stone bass vitela vee-teh-luh veal chinesa shee-neh-zuh white coffee chocolate shoh-koh-laht’ chocolate Numbers chocos shoh-koosh cuttlefish 0 zero zeh-roo chouriço shoh-ree-soo red, spicy 1 um ooñ sausage 2 dois doysh churrasco shoo-rash-coo on the spit 3 três tresh coelho koo-el-yoo rabbit 4 quatro kwa-troo Phrase Book cogumelos koo-goo-meh-loosh mushrooms 5 cinco seeñ-koo cordeiro kur-deh-roo lamb 6 seis saysh cozido koo-zee-doo boiled 7 sete set’ dourada doh-rah-dah sea bream 8 oito oy-too espada (e)sh-pah-dah scabbard fish 9 nove nov’ espetada (e)sh-puh-tah-dah Madeiran beef 10 dez de-esh kebab 11 onze oñz’ espadarte (e)sh-pah-dahr-tuh swordfish 12 doze doz’ fiambre fee-ambri ham 13 treze trez’ frango fran-goo chicken 14 catorze ka-torz’ frito free-too fried 15 quinze keeñz’ fruta froo-tuh fruit 16 dezasseis de-zuh-saysh gambas gam-bash prawns 17 dezassete de-zuh-set’ gelado je-lah-doo ice cream 18 dezoito de-zoy-too gelo jeh-loo ice 19 dezanove de-zuh-nov’ goiaba goy-ah-bah guava 20 vinte veent’ grelhado grel-yah-doo grilled 21 vinte e um veen-tee-ooñ kiwi kee-wee kiwi fruit 30 trinta treeñ-tuh lagosta luh-gohsh-tuh lobster 40 quarenta kwa-ren-tuh lapas lah-push limpets 50 cinquenta seen-kwen-tuh laranja luh rañ-juh orange 60 sessenta se-sen-tuh leite layt’ milk 70 setenta se-ten-tuh limão lee-mowñ lemon 80 oitenta oy-ten-tuh limonada lee-moo-nah-duh lemonade 90 noventa noo-ven-tuh linguado leeñ-gwah-doo sole 100 cem sayñ lulas loo-lash squid 101 cento e um sen-too-ee-ooñ maçã muh-sañ apple 102 cento e dois sen-too-ee- manga mahn-gah mango doysh manteiga mañ-tay-guh butter 200 duzentos doo-zen-toosh maracujá muhr-ah-koo-jah passion fruit 300 trezentos tre-zen-toosh mariscos muh-reesh-koosh seafood 400 quatrocentos kwa-troo-sen- milho frito meel-yoo free-too deep-fried cubes toosh of maize meal 500 quinhentos kee-nyen-toosh morangos moh-rahn-gosh strawberries 600 seiscentos saysh-sen-toosh ostras osh-trash oysters 700 setecentos set’-sen-toosh ovos oh-voosh eggs 800 oitocentos oy-too-sen- pão powñ bread toosh pargo pahr-goo red bream 900 novecentos nov’-sen-toosh pastel pash-tehl’ cake 1,000 mil meel’ peixe paysh’ fish pêssego pess-eh-goo peach Time pêssego pess-eh-goo nectarine one minute um minuto ooñ mee-noo- careca kah-ray-kuh too pimenta pee-men-tuh pepper one hour uma hora oo-muh oh-ruh polvo pohl’-voo octopus half an hour meia-hora may-uh oh-ruh porco por-coo pork Monday segunda-feira se-goon-duh- prego pray-goh steak sandwich fay-ruh queijo kay-joo cheese Tuesday terça-feira ter-sa-fay-ruh sal sahl’ salt Wednesday quarta-feira kwar-ta-fay-ruh salada suh-lah-duh salad Thursday quinta-feira keen-ta-fay-ruh salsichas sahl-see-shash sausages Friday sexta-feira say-shta-fay- sandes san-desh sandwich ruh sopa soh-puh soup Saturday sábado sah-ba-too sumo soo-moo juice Sunday domingo doo-meeñ-goo

126 Acknowledgements The Author Revisions Coordinator Mani Ramaswamy Christopher Catling has written more than Assistant Revisions Coordinator 50 travel guides, including best-selling DK Mary Ormandy Eyewitness guides to Florence and Venice. Design and Editorial Assistance Sangita Acknowledgements He also contributed to the Portugal, Italy Patel, Marianne Petrou, Tomas Tranæus. and Great Britain guides in the same series. When not writing books, he works as an Picture Credits archaeologist and heritage consultant. He Placement Key: t-top; tc-top centre; tl-top is a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries left; tr-top right; cla-centre left above; ca- and the Royal Society of Arts, and a member centre above; cra-centre right above; cl- of the British Guild of Travel Writers. He centre left; c-centre; cr-centre right; clb- loves Madeira, and never grows tired of centre left below; cb-centre below; crb- visiting it to walk, and to enjoy the food centre right below; bl-below left; bc-below and warm hospitality of the islanders. centre; br-below right; b-bottom.

Special thanks for their invaluable assistance Every effort has been made to trace the to Isabel Góis at the Madeira Tourist Board in copyright holders and we apologise in Funchal and Elsa Cortez at the Portuguese advance for any unintentional omissions. National Tourist Ofﬁce in London. We would be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgements in any Produced byDP Services, a division of subsequent edition of this publication. DUNCAN PETERSEN PUBLISHING LTD, 31 Ceylon Road, London W14 0PY The publishers would like to thank the following individuals, companies and Project Editor Chris Barstow picture libraries for permission to Designer Ian Midson reproduce their photographs: Picture Researcher Lily Sellar Listings Researcher Tomas Tranæus ALAMY: Robert Harding Picture Library Indexer Hilary Bird 32–33c; Ernst Wrba 29b; MADEIRA Proofreader Yoko Kawaguchi TOURISM: 30b, 54tl, 54tr, 55bl, 55cr; Main Photographer Antony Souter MARTIN SIEPMANN: 23b, 33cra; MARY Additional Photography Linda Whitwam EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY: 37tr, 37bl; Illustrator Chapel Design & Marketing MICHELLE CHAPLOW: 61tr, 61br; MUSEU Maps John Plumer, JP Map Graphics DE ARTE SACRA DO FUNCHAL: 10b; NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, Cartography Credits LONDON: 36c; POWERSTOCK: 54cl; Madeira base map derived from Madeira PRISMA: 92–93; THE SAVOY RESORT, Tourist Board, www.madeiratourism.org Funchal, Madeira Island: All rights reserved. 112tr; TOMAS TRANÆUS: 71; For Dorling Kindersley TOPFOTO: 37cr, 37br. Publisher Douglas Amrine Senior Art Editor Tessa Bindloss For jacket credits see Contents page. Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris Senior DTP Designer Jason Little All other images are © Dorling Kindersley. Production Linda Dare For further information see Picture Librarian Romaine Werblow www.dkimages.com

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127 Selected Index of Places

Achada da Cruz H2 Falca de Baixo G3 Portela J4 Achada do Castanheiro F2 Falca de Cima G3 Porto da Cruz J3 Achada do Cedro Gordo H3 Fanal C2 Porto Moniz B1 Achada da Madeira F3 Farrobo L1 Praia Formosa G6 Achada do Marques H3 Figueirinhas J5 Prainha L4 Achada do Moreno K4 Fontainhas E5 Prazeres B3 Achada do Teixeira H3 Fonte da Areia L1 Primeira Lombada F2 Achadas da Cruz B2 Funchal H6 Queimadas H3 Água de Pena K4 Garachico F5 Quinta Grande E5 Águas Mansas J5 Garajau J6 Quinta Magnólia G6 Arco da Calheta C4 Gaula J5 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro Arco de São Jorge G2 Ginjas E3 (Blandy’s Gardens) J5 Assomada J5 Ilha H2 Rabaçal C3 Boa Morte E5 Ilhéu de Baixo K3 Raposeira B3 Boa Vista Orchids H5 Jamboto G5 Referta J3 Boaventura G2 Jardim Botânico H5 Ribeira Brava D5 Boca da Encumeada E3 Jardim da Serra F5 Ribeira da Janela C1 Cabo A2 Jardim do Mar B4 Ribeira da Vaca A2 Cabo Girão E5 João Ferino J4 Ribeira de Machico J4 Caldeira F5 Lamaceiros B1 Ribeira Funda G2 Caldeirão do Inferno G3 Lameiros E3 Ribeira Seca K4

Selected Index of Places Caldeirão Verde G3 Larano J3 Ribeiro Frio H4 Calhau da Serra de Fora M1 Livramento H5 Rochão J5 Calheta B4 Lombada do Ponta do Sol D5 Rosário E3 Camacha (Madeira) J5 Lombada dos Marinheiros A3 Salões L2 Camacha (Porto Santo) L1 Lombadinha A2 Santa B1 Câmara de Lobos F6 Lombas L2 Santa Cruz K5 Campanário E5 Lombo Chão F4 Santana H2 Campo de Baixo L2 Lombo do Brasil C4 Santo António G5 Campo de Cima L2 Lombo do Galego H3 Santo António da Serra J4 Cancela J5 Lombo dos Reis B4 São Gonçalo H6 Candelária D5 Loreto C4 São João E5 Canhas D5 Lugar da Serra E5 São João de Latrão H5 Caniçal L4 Lugar de Baixo D5 São Jorge H2 Caniço J5 Machico K4 São Martinho G6 Caniço de Baixo J6 Madalena do Mar C4 São Roque H5 Capela de Nossa Senhora Maiata J3 São Roque do Faial J3 da Graça L1 Maloeira B3 São Vicente E2 Capela de Nossa Senhora Maroços K4 Seara Velha F4 do Loreto C4 Moinhos J3 Segunda Lombada E2 Capela dos Reis Magos B4 Monte H5 Seixal D2 Carvalhal e Carreira C4 Paúl da Serra D3 Serra de Água E4 Casas Próximas F4 Paúl do Mar A3 Serra de Dentro L1 Casinhas L2 Pé do Pico L1 Serra de Fora L1 Corticeiras F5 Pehna de Águia J3 Serrado A2 Cruzinhas H3 Penteada G5 Serrado J3 Curral das Freiras G4 Pico das Piedras H3 Tabúa D5 Dragoal L1 Pico do Arieiro G4 Tanque L1 Eira do Serrado G4 Pico Ruivo G3 Tendeira J5 Estreito da Calheta B4 Poiso E2 Terça K4 Estreito de Câmara deLobos F5 Ponta K2 Terceira Lombada E2 Faial J3 Ponta da Calheta K2 Terra Chã E2 Fajã da Ovelha A3 Ponta da São Lourenço L4 Terra Chã F4 Fajã do Penedo G2 Ponta Delgada F2 Terreiro da Luta H5 Fajã dos Cardos G4 Ponta do Pargo A2 Vale Paraíso J5 Fajã dos Padres E5 Ponta do Sol D5 Vila Baleira L2 Fajã dos Rolos K4 Portas da Vila B1 Zimbralinho K2

128 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP 10

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