TOP 10 MADEIRA CHRISTOPHER CATLING EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Left Funchal Casino Middle Flower sellers at Funchal market Right Casks of Verdelho Madeira Contents Contents Madeira’s Top 10 Produced by DP Services, London Funchal Cathedral (Sé) 8 Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom Museu de Arte Sacra, First American Edition, 2005 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Funchal 10 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., Adegas de São Francisco, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Funchal 12 Reprinted with revisions 2007 Museu da Quinta das Copyright 2005, 2007 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company Cruzes, Funchal 14 All rights reserved under International and Pan- American Copyright Conventions. No part of this Mercado dos Lavradores, publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any Funchal 18 means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the copyright owner. Published in Jardim Botânico, Funchal 20 Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited ISSN 1479-344X Quinta ISBN 0-75660-905-4 ISBN 978-0-75660-905-4 do Palheiro Ferreiro 24 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. Monte 26 All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Curral das Freiras 30 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with Portuguese usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. Pico do Arieiro 32 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL. Cover: Corbis Ray Juno main; DK Images Clive Streeter tc; Linda Whitwam cla; Robert Harding Picture Library clb; H. P. Merton bl. Back: Corbis Jose Fuste Raga tc; Neil Miller/Papilio tl; DK Images Linda Whitwam tr 2 Contents Left Ribeira da Janela islets Middle Capela dos Milagres, Machico Right The beach, Porto Santo Moments in History 36 Around Madeira Museums 38 Funchal 64 Churches 40 Central Madeira 74 Historic Buildings 42 Western Madeira 80 Gardens 44 Eastern Madeira 86 Beaches 46 Porto Santo 94 Outdoor Activities 48 Streetsmart Levada Facts 50 Practical Information 102 Children’s Attractions 52 Places to Stay 112 Festivals 54 General Index 118 Specialist Shops 56 Phrase Book 124 Madeiran Wine Outlets 58 Acknowledgements 127 Restaurants 60 Selected Index of Places 128 Left View from Bica de Cana Right Ponta de São Lourenço 3 MADEIRA’S TOP 10 Madeira Highlights 6–7 MADEIRA’S TOP 10 Funchal Cathedral (Sé) 8–9 Museu de Arte Sacra, Funchal 10–11 Adegas de São Francisco, Funchal 12–13 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes, Funchal 14–17 Mercado dos Lavradores 18–19 Jardim Botânico, Funchal 20–23 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro 24–25 Monte 26–29 Curral das Freiras 30–31 Pico do Arieiro 32–33 Top 10 of Everything 36–61 Madeira Highlights Madeira is an island of astonishing contrasts. From the big-city sophistication of the capital, Funchal, it is a short step to the primeval woodland that cloaks the dramatic cliffs and canyons of the island’s interior. The fertility of Madeira’s flower-filled gardens is in marked contrast to the aridity of the island’s volcanic peaks. And nothing could be more different than the gentle rippling of the levadas (canals), which carry water into Madeira’s deepest valleys, and the crash of the waves that dash the island’s rocky shores. Madeira has been called a place where all the continents meet. It has something of them all – including snow. 1POUBEP 5SJTUÍP 3RUWR 0RQL] 6DQWD Madeira’s Top 10 3RUWDVGD9LOD $FKDGDVGD&UX] 5LEHLUDGD-DQHOD &DER (5 6HL[DO 3 J C 3RQWDGR3DUJR F J S B /RPEDGLQKD E B 6¤R9LFHQWH + /RPEDGDGRV (5 B O 0DULQKHLURV F MB (5 5RV¢ULR )DM¤GD2YHOKD 5DSRVHLUD B (5 F S S 4 3D»OGR0DU E B M B Þ (VWUHLWRGD&DOKHWD 1 -DUGLPGR0DU /RPERGRV5HLV 6HUUDGH JXD Funchal ! 0XVHXGD4XLQWD &UNCHAL Cathedral (Sé) 6 58$ GDV&UX]HV -(68 '(- 8QLYHUVLW\ % 2 2 2 '(' $ $' (86 , Hewn out of the island’s 4XDUWHU 5 58 ' 7 8 $ 2 5 $ 8 1 , 1 $ $ &DUPR ( ' volcanic rock and its 0XVHXGH 8 ' '( 2 4XDUWHU 9 6¤R3HGUR 5 $UWH6DFUD 8$ ' 2 ,* ' ' 5 abundant timber $635(7 ( % $6 - $ 58 $ 5 2 $ $ 8 8 ' 8 $ 8 1 5 5 $ 2 5 supplies, Madeira’s ' 7 ( 5 $ & $ 5 5 ( , 5 $ 9 8 , 1 ( ( 5 ( % /$ 1,' % 2 6 =RQD - 8 5 cathedral is a monument $/ 2 5 $GHJDVGH 2 9HOKD 8 $ $ ' 6« ' $ 5 6¥R)UDQFLVFR 58 to the faith and piety of % $ = &DWKHGUDO 0HUFDGR & , $* $ 0 $ 55 5 &DWKHGUDO $ & $5 , ' GRV/DYUDGRUHV the island’s first settlers $ ( 1 2 4XDUWHU $ 9 (60$ 35$$'$ 6&2081,'$' '(,5(16(6 (see pp8–9). 5('$ $872120,$ 17( 20$ $ (' ,1) $9 '2 $9( ZBSET NFUSFT @ Museu de Arte Sacra, Funchal Trade contacts with $ Museu da Quinta Antwerp in the 15th das Cruzes, century enabled Funchal Madeira’s mer- Look inside a gracious chants to sell Madeiran mansion, built their sugar – on the site where the so valuable island’s first ruler, João that it was £ Adegas de São Gonçalves Zarco, had his known as Francisco, Funchal home (see pp14–17). “white gold” Madeira is renowned for – and buy the its wines, famous for their superb Flemish complexity and depth of paintings and flavour. At this historic sculptures wine lodge you can sam- that fill this ple different vintages and art museum learn to be a Madeira con- (see pp10–11). noisseur (see pp12–13). 6 Preceding pages View of Curral das Freiras, with Pride of Madeira flowers in foreground Jardim ^ Botânico, Funchal The Botanical Gardens are a showcase for all the plants that thrive Madeira’s Top 10 in the island’s warm and humid climate, from jungle orchids to bristling cacti (see pp20–23). % Mercado dos Lavradores, Funchal The Farmers’ Market is a bustling medley of colourful stalls posi- tively bursting with exotic fruits, scented flowers and examples of local crafts (see pp18–19). 3RQWD $UFRGH 'HOJDGD 6¤R-RUJH 6¤R-RUJH & Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro $FKDGDGD&UX] Two hundred years of cultivation %RDYHQWXUD 5LEHLUD have produced this magnificent all- )XQGD (5 6DQWDQD )DM¤GR seasons garden where the flowers of 3HQHGR )DLDO the world combine with the English flair for garden design (see pp24–5). 3RUWRGD&UX] &UX]LQKDV 6¤R5RTXH GR)DLDO 3LFRGR 1POUBEF $ULHLUR 5LEHLUD 4ÍP-PVSFOÎP &XUUDO 5LEHLUR)ULR 6HFD GDV)UHLUDV (5 &DQL¨DO (5 (5 6DQWR$QW´QLR 0DFKLFR (5 GD6HUUD -R¤R)HULQR 5RFK¤R (VWUHLWRGH &£PDUD 6DQWD&UX] GH/RERV 0RQWH &DPDFKD 6¤R5RTXH -DUGLP%RW¤QLFR (5 4XLQWDGR3DOKHLUR)HUUHLUR &DQL¨R &£PDUD 6¤R*RQ¨DOR GH/RERV )XQFKDO &DQL¨RGH%DL[R 6HHPDSOHIW NJMFT LN * Monte Escape to a romantic ( Curral das Freiras world of gardens, tea- During pirate attacks, houses and cobbled walks, the nuns of Santa Clara home to Emperor Charles I took refuge in this hidden in exile. Afterwards, return green valley encircled by to the capital on the exhil- sheer cliffs – a place of arating Monte toboggan breathtaking scenic run (see pp26–7). beauty (see pp30–31). ) Pico do Arieiro Feel on top of the world as you view the ridges and ravines of the island’s mountainous interior from the summit of Madeira’s third highest peak (1,818 m; 5,965 ft) (see pp32–3). 7 Funchal Cathedral (Sé) Save for a flurry of pinnacles at the eastern end, Funchal Cathedral’s exterior is very plain. By contrast, the interior is lined with statues, paintings and gold- covered chapels; the ceiling is of spectacular knotwork inspired by Moorish geometry; and set in the floor are the tombs of early bishops and sugar mer- chants. Designed by Pêro Anes, assisted by master mason Gil Enes, the cathe- dral was begun in 1493. Consecrated in September 1514, when Funchal was officially granted city status, it was finally completed in October 1517. Top 10 Features 1 West Portal 2 Narthex and Baptistry 3 Nave and South Aisle 4 North Aisle Madeira’s Top 10 5 Funchal Cathedral Ceiling 6 South Transept 7 Sanctuary The cathedral marks 8 the social heart of Seating in the Sanctuary Funchal. The 9 Altarpiece pavement cafés to 0 East End the south (the Café Funchal and the Café Apolo) are popular meeting places for people who live and work in the city centre, and great places to relax and simply watch the world go by. The cathedral is a functioning religious building, and visits are not encouraged during services ! West Portal (weekdays at 8am, King Manuel I of Portugal (1495–1521) helped to fund 8.30am, 11.15am and the construction of the cathe- 6pm; Sundays at dral, and it is his coat of arms £ Nave and South 8am, 9am, 11am, 5pm (above) over the Gothic door- Aisle and 6pm). If you go way. The rose window above Here, floor memorials to to a service, you the crown is carved from rust- bishops and merchants will be able to see red local basalt.