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2010-2011 DOUG SCOTT Has Made Almost 40 Expeditions to the High Mountains of Asia

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2010-2011 DOUG SCOTT Has Made Almost 40 Expeditions to the High Mountains of Asia 482 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n A l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 Index 2010-2011 DOUG SCOTT has made almost 40 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia. He has reached the summit of 30 peaks, of which half have been first ascents, and all were climbed by new routes or for the first time in lightweight style. Apart from his climb up the SW face of Everest with Dougal Haston in 1975, he has made all his climbs in alpine style without A Apolobamba 322 the use of supplementary oxygen. He is a former president of the Alpine Äbeni Flue 91 Apusinikajik glacier, Greenland 255 Club. Abruzzi Spur, K2, 267, 272 Archer Thomson 208, 209 Achik Tash valley, Pamirs 75 Ashley, Lord 79 BOB SHEPTON was fortunate enough to find the cliffs of Lulworth and Aconcagua 107, 312, 410, 454 Ashley, Mount 318 Portland unclimbed in the 1960s and 70s and set about steadily developing Afghanistan 333, 478 Assiniboine 208, 368, 402 them. In latter years he has led Tilman-type expeditions to the west coast Aiguille Croux 245 Astill, Chris 403, obit 404; of Greenland and Arctic Canada, sailing and climbing new routes from his Aiguille d’Argentière 206 At Bashi range, Kyrgyzstan 266, 326 boat, culminating in the ‘Big Walls’ expedition that was awarded a Piolet Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 206 Auer, Hansjorg 250 d’Or in 2011. Aiguille des Pélèrins 84 Austrian Alpine Club 53 Aiguille Noire 245, 451 Ayacata, Gran Canaria 137, 138 JOHN TOWN is a retired university administrator. He has climbed in the Aiguille Sans Nom 246 Alps, Caucasus, Altai, Andes, Turkey and Kamchatka, and explored little- Aiguille Verte 246, 468 B known mountain areas of Mongolia, Yunnan and Tibet. He is old enough Ak Sakal, Kyrgyzstan 263 Babolin, Mara 244 to remember the days without satellite photos and GPS. Akuliarusinguaq peninsula, Greenland Baffin Island 121, 327, 396, 442, 461, 462 255 Baillie, Rusty 87 PHIL WICKENS studied biology at Imperial College in London. After Albert, Kurt 271 Baiyu Feng, aka Xuelian West, Tien completing his PhD in plant pathology he worked for two winters and three Aletsch glacier 91 Shan 62; summers as a field guide for the British Antarctic Survey, and currently Allan, Sandy: his art 11; biog 477 Baker, Michael 434 works as a freelance guide, lecturer and photographer in the polar regions. Alpine Club of Canada 208 Bakshi, Pakistan 263 He has led numerous climbing and skiing expeditions to remote areas, Alpinist magazine 46, 345, 361 Baltar glacier, Pakistan 4 including the Alpine Club’s expeditions to the Pamirs and Antarctica. Altai 326, 409, 482 Baltoro 17, 391 Ama Dablam, art 193; 224, 288, 455 Band, George 79, 193, 217, 221, author JEREMY WINDSOR is an anaesthetist and researcher at the Institute of Am Basteir, Skye 260 obits 420; 429; Human Health and Performance, based at University College London. Amedeo, Picco Luigi 209 Barker, Annabelle 113 Despite limited ability, he has climbed widely throughout the UK and the American Alpine Journal 89, 198, 262, Barkley Ridge, Wrangell St Elias 328 greater ranges. As an expedition doctor he has undertaken trips to East 297, 301, 345 Barlow, Guy 212 Africa, South America, Greenland and the Himalaya. Andersen, Pete 208 Barmasse, Marco 249 Anderson, Andy 186 Bar Room Mountaineers and other climbing DAVE WYNNE-JONES used to teach before he learnt his lesson. He has Andes 107; 234, 242, 301; 311; 322, 396, songs by Dennis Gray, reviewed 398 spent over 30 years exploring the hills and crags of Britain and climbed all 431, 437 Bartlett, Phil 364, 402 the Alpine 4000m peaks. By the 1990s annual alpine seasons had given Anker, Conrad 87 Bascou, Carlos 107, 113 way to explorative climbing further afield, including Jordan, Morocco, Anker, Daniel 357 Bass, Malcolm, 4, his art 18; 329, biog Russia and Ecuador, though ski mountaineering took him back to the Alps Annapurna 79, 88, 89, art 181; 189, 285, 477 in winter. Expedition destinations have included Pakistan, Peru, Alaska, 286, 289, 331, 371 Bataillon, Michel art 468; biog 478 the Yukon, Kyrgyzstan, Nepal, India and China with a respectable tally of Anstey, John 165 Baston Labaffe 248 first ascents. Antarctica 92, art 99; 242, 315, 322, 328, Batian, Kenya 414, 442 345; 409, 428, 437 Batoux, Philippe 246 Antarctic Peninsula 315, 328, 442 Batura glacier/massif, Pakistan, 268, Antill, Rachel 22 271, 324 Aosta 144; 154, 428 Bau, Alessandro 251 Apa Sherpa 288 Bauddha, Nepal 170 483 484 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n A l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 i n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 485 Beare, Marty 20 Branscomb glacier 101 Campbell, Robin 200 Climbers’ Club 209, 224, 229, 426, 450 Beas Nala, Kullu 41, 43, 44 Breithorn 249 Canteri, Marco 251 Climbing – Philosophy for Everyone, Beas Rikhi, Kullu 39, 41, 42 Brenva Spur 243, 244 Caracol, Peru 304, 305 reviewed 365 Becca di Gay, Gran Paradiso 144; British/New Zealand Alaska Carbon Neutral Expedition 254 Clinch Peak 105 Becca di Montandayne, Gran Paradiso Extravaganza 320 Càrn Mòr Dearg 203 Clogwyn y Ddisgl 208 150 British Ruth Gorge 319, 321 Carrel, Jean Joseph 210 Clothier, Robin 256 Ben Nevis art 199; 256; 370, 388, 394; Broadhead, Dave 169, 171 Celva, Oswald 252 Cocker, Mike 38 427; Broad Peak 267, 269 Cenotaph (The), Greenland 254; Cogne, Mountains of, art 143; 428 Ben Nevis: Britain’s Highest Mountain Brocherel, Alexis 208 Cerro Torre 165, 166, 371 Cohen, Geoff 168, 176; 329 by Ken Crocket & Simon Richardson, Brocherel, Henri 206, 210 Chabot, Doug 3 Coire an t-Sneachda 167 reviewed 394 Brooker, Bill 167, 394, 398 Challenges for Mountain Regions, Institute Coire Scamadal 256 Benson, Pete 259 Brouillard, Right Hand Pillar of 87 of Mountain Research, reviewed 392 Collister, Rob, his article 91; biog 478 Bereziartu, Josune 245 Brown, Andy 20 Chamlang 330 Col Pousset 148 Bergführer Ecuador by Günter Brown, Jed 62; Chamonix 46, 76; 86, 145, 212; 350, Condict, Dave 166 Schmudlach, review 396 Brown, Joe 79, 163, 217, 398, 431, 459; 385, 404, 407, 428, 460; 468; Cook, Drew 38 Bernese Oberland 91, 245, 248, 418 Brown, Kester, 242, NZ Notes 298; biog Chandigarh 33 Coranotte, Michel 249 Bernina 209, 249, 250, 444 478 Chang Himal, Nepal, article 45; Corbet Peak, Antarctica 105 Bethmann-Hollweg, Dietrich von 210 Bruce, Charles 76; Changuch, Garhwal 274, 277 Cordillera Blanca 301, 306, 410 Beyond the Mountain by Steve House, Bruce, Geoffrey 76 Charakusa, Pakistan, 172, 271, 324 Cordillera Quimsa Cruz 212 reviewed 346 Bryn, Alf 208 Chaukhamba I 278 Couchepin, G 209 Bhagikashahri, Jiwa Nala, India 34 BT Challenge 255 Cheney, Mike 169, 170 Couloir au bout du Monde 244 Bhagirathi II 22, 274, 278, 329 Buachaille Etive Mor 208 Cherry, Paul 167, 398, 399 Courmayeur 86 Bionnassay, Aiguille de 210 Buccella, Tizziano 250 Childs, Roger 403, obit 407; Craddock Massif 104, 105 Bird, Patrick 100; Buckle, Derek his article 31; 42; his Chile, article 97; 231, 312; Craig, David 225 Bishop, Barry 196, 198 article 107; 294, 324, 476, biog 478 Chimbote, Chile 109, 112 Creag an Dubh Loch 256, 258, 259, 261 Blackshaw, Alan 77, 397, author obit Bullock, Nick vi, 45; 259, 287, 323, 331, China and Tibet, Area Notes, 242, 292; Creag Meagaidh (Crab Crawl) 160, 161 412; 451 479 China Tibet Mountaineering Assoc. 288 Creswell, Robert (Bob) 403, obit 409; Blanc, Pierre 208 Bura, Tejbir 77 Chogolisa 176, 211 Crettex, Maurice 206, 209 Blessed, Brian 371 Burdet, Denis 248 Cholatse 289 Crettex, Jules 209 Boardman, Pete 186 Burgener, Alexander 207 Chomiomo, Sikkim 211 Crew, Pete 165, 166 Boardman Tasker Prize 402 Burgener, Heinrich 208 Chomolhari 215, 221 Crippa, Paulo 252 Bohórquez, Antonio Gómez 242, author Burke, Mick 162; Chomo Lonzo 191 Crocket, Ken 200, 394 Peru Notes 301; Burnell, Tony 298 Chomolungma 228, 374 Croux, Laurent 210 Bonatti Direct 248 Burslem, Tom 144; Chongra Main, South 267 Crowberry Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor Bonington, Chris 79, 84, 86; 162; 182, Cho Oyu 284; 290, 373; 421, 424; 209 186; 188, 370; 398, 445; 460; C Chorley, Roger 205 Cuillin Ridge, Skye 213 Book of Minutes, Winchester Ice Club Café Royal 188 Ciarforon 147, 153 Cumming, S M 208 199; Cairn Gorm 167 Cima, Claudio 251 Cunningham, John 196 Boothby, Lord 79 Cairngorms 258, 388, 394; 408, 455 Cima Scotini 252 Curran, Jim, book review 341; 399, 401 Boulter, Patrick ‘Paddy’, 403, obit 406; Cairngorms (The): 100 Years of Cima Una 207 Cuthbertson, Smiler, author obit 404 Bowron, H E 212 Mountaineering by Greg Strange, reviewed Civetta 251 Boysen, Martin 85, 165; 183, 372, 445, 463 394; Clarke, Jack 208 D Bradey, Lydia 294, 323, 328 Calciati, Count Cesare 211 Clark, William Inglis 200 Dalai Lama 284, 373, 375, 429 Brailsford, John 83, 350; Cambridge University Mountaineering Cleare, John 159; 182, 200 Darran Mountains 298, 299 Braithwaite, Paul, 75, 450, Valedictory Club 183 Clennett, Margaret 113 Dashaur peak, Kullu 39, 41, 44 Address 459; 471, 474, 476, biog 477 Campanile Basso 211 Climate Change 233 Daxue Shan 293, 323 486 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n A l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 i n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 487 Day, Henry 113, his article 181; biog 478 Eight Women-climbers Peak 262 Freshfield, Douglas 275 382, 385, 392, 394, 395, 397, author obits Day, Robin obit 403, 412 Eismeer station 207 Friedrichs, Viktor von 208 426, 436, biog 479 Deavoll, Pat v, her article 3; 21; 269, El Cardonal, Los Quemados, Gran Fulton, Alasdair 256 Gordon, Alistair 403 271, 272, 324, 329 biog 478 Canaria 139, 142 Furggen ridge 210 Gore, Jerry, review 350 Deep Powder and Steep Rock: The Life of… El Colaz, Dolomites 252 Fyffe, Allen 160 Gormly, Peter 356 Hans Gmoser, by Chic Scott, reviewed Ellerton, John, review 354 Gowing, Richard, author obit 448 368 Ellsworth Mountains
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