482 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 Index 2010-2011 DOUG SCOTT has made almost 40 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia. He has reached the summit of 30 peaks, of which half have been first ascents, and all were climbed by new routes or for the first time in lightweight style. Apart from his climb up the SW face of Everest with Dougal Haston in 1975, he has made all his climbs in alpine style without A Apolobamba 322 the use of supplementary oxygen. He is a former president of the Alpine Äbeni Flue 91 Apusinikajik glacier, Greenland 255 Club. Abruzzi Spur, , 267, 272 Archer Thomson 208, 209 Achik Tash valley, Pamirs 75 Ashley, Lord 79 BOB SHEPTON was fortunate enough to find the cliffs of Lulworth and Aconcagua 107, 312, 410, 454 Ashley, Mount 318 Portland unclimbed in the 1960s and 70s and set about steadily developing Afghanistan 333, 478 Assiniboine 208, 368, 402 them. In latter years he has led Tilman-type expeditions to the west coast Aiguille Croux 245 Astill, Chris 403, obit 404; of Greenland and Arctic Canada, sailing and climbing new routes from his Aiguille d’Argentière 206 At Bashi range, Kyrgyzstan 266, 326 boat, culminating in the ‘Big Walls’ expedition that was awarded a Piolet Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 206 Auer, Hansjorg 250 d’Or in 2011. Aiguille des Pélèrins 84 Austrian Alpine Club 53 Aiguille Noire 245, 451 Ayacata, Gran Canaria 137, 138 JOHN TOWN is a retired university administrator. He has climbed in the Aiguille Sans Nom 246 Alps, Caucasus, Altai, Andes, Turkey and Kamchatka, and explored little- 246, 468 B known mountain areas of Mongolia, Yunnan and Tibet. He is old enough Ak Sakal, Kyrgyzstan 263 Babolin, Mara 244 to remember the days without satellite photos and GPS. Akuliarusinguaq peninsula, Greenland Baffin Island 121, 327, 396, 442, 461, 462 255 Baillie, Rusty 87 PHIL WICKENS studied biology at Imperial College in London. After Albert, Kurt 271 Baiyu Feng, aka Xuelian West, Tien completing his PhD in plant pathology he worked for two winters and three Aletsch glacier 91 Shan 62; summers as a field guide for the British Antarctic Survey, and currently Allan, Sandy: his art 11; biog 477 Baker, Michael 434 works as a freelance guide, lecturer and photographer in the polar regions. Alpine Club of Canada 208 Bakshi, Pakistan 263 He has led numerous climbing and skiing expeditions to remote areas, Alpinist magazine 46, 345, 361 Baltar glacier, Pakistan 4 including the Alpine Club’s expeditions to the Pamirs and Antarctica. Altai 326, 409, 482 Baltoro 17, 391 Ama Dablam, art 193; 224, 288, 455 Band, George 79, 193, 217, 221, author JEREMY WINDSOR is an anaesthetist and researcher at the Institute of Am Basteir, Skye 260 obits 420; 429; Human Health and Performance, based at University College London. Amedeo, Picco Luigi 209 Barker, Annabelle 113 Despite limited ability, he has climbed widely throughout the UK and the American Alpine Journal 89, 198, 262, Barkley Ridge, Wrangell St Elias 328 greater ranges. As an expedition doctor he has undertaken trips to East 297, 301, 345 Barlow, Guy 212 Africa, South America, Greenland and the Himalaya. Andersen, Pete 208 Barmasse, Marco 249 Anderson, Andy 186 Bar Room Mountaineers and other climbing DAVE WYNNE-JONES used to teach before he learnt his lesson. He has Andes 107; 234, 242, 301; 311; 322, 396, songs by Dennis Gray, reviewed 398 spent over 30 years exploring the hills and crags of Britain and climbed all 431, 437 Bartlett, Phil 364, 402 the Alpine 4000m peaks. By the 1990s annual alpine seasons had given Anker, Conrad 87 Bascou, Carlos 107, 113 way to explorative climbing further afield, including Jordan, Morocco, Anker, Daniel 357 Bass, Malcolm, 4, his art 18; 329, biog Russia and Ecuador, though ski took him back to the Alps 79, 88, 89, art 181; 189, 285, 477 in winter. Expedition destinations have included Pakistan, Peru, Alaska, 286, 289, 331, 371 Bataillon, Michel art 468; biog 478 the Yukon, Kyrgyzstan, , India and China with a respectable tally of Anstey, John 165 Baston Labaffe 248 first ascents. Antarctica 92, art 99; 242, 315, 322, 328, Batian, Kenya 414, 442 345; 409, 428, 437 Batoux, Philippe 246 Antarctic Peninsula 315, 328, 442 Batura glacier/massif, Pakistan, 268, Antill, Rachel 22 271, 324 Aosta 144; 154, 428 Bau, Alessandro 251 Apa Sherpa 288 Bauddha, Nepal 170 483 484 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 I n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 485

Beare, Marty 20 Branscomb glacier 101 Campbell, Robin 200 Climbers’ Club 209, 224, 229, 426, 450 Beas Nala, Kullu 41, 43, 44 Breithorn 249 Canteri, Marco 251 Climbing – Philosophy for Everyone, Beas Rikhi, Kullu 39, 41, 42 Brenva Spur 243, 244 Caracol, Peru 304, 305 reviewed 365 Becca di Gay, Gran Paradiso 144; British/New Zealand Alaska Carbon Neutral Expedition 254 Clinch Peak 105 Becca di Montandayne, Gran Paradiso Extravaganza 320 Càrn Mòr Dearg 203 Clogwyn y Ddisgl 208 150 British Ruth Gorge 319, 321 Carrel, Jean Joseph 210 Clothier, Robin 256 Ben Nevis art 199; 256; 370, 388, 394; Broadhead, Dave 169, 171 Celva, Oswald 252 Cocker, Mike 38 427; Broad Peak 267, 269 Cenotaph (The), Greenland 254; Cogne, Mountains of, art 143; 428 Ben Nevis: Britain’s Highest Mountain Brocherel, Alexis 208 Cerro Torre 165, 166, 371 Cohen, Geoff 168, 176; 329 by Ken Crocket & Simon Richardson, Brocherel, Henri 206, 210 Chabot, Doug 3 Coire an t-Sneachda 167 reviewed 394 Brooker, Bill 167, 394, 398 Challenges for Mountain Regions, Institute Coire Scamadal 256 Benson, Pete 259 Brouillard, Right Hand Pillar of 87 of Mountain Research, reviewed 392 Collister, Rob, his article 91; biog 478 Bereziartu, Josune 245 Brown, Andy 20 Chamlang 330 Col Pousset 148 Bergführer Ecuador by Günter Brown, Jed 62; 46, 76; 86, 145, 212; 350, Condict, Dave 166 Schmudlach, review 396 Brown, Joe 79, 163, 217, 398, 431, 459; 385, 404, 407, 428, 460; 468; Cook, Drew 38 Bernese Oberland 91, 245, 248, 418 Brown, Kester, 242, NZ Notes 298; biog Chandigarh 33 Coranotte, Michel 249 Bernina 209, 249, 250, 444 478 Chang Himal, Nepal, article 45; Corbet Peak, Antarctica 105 Bethmann-Hollweg, Dietrich von 210 Bruce, Charles 76; Changuch, Garhwal 274, 277 Cordillera Blanca 301, 306, 410 Beyond the Mountain by Steve House, Bruce, Geoffrey 76 Charakusa, Pakistan, 172, 271, 324 Cordillera Quimsa Cruz 212 reviewed 346 Bryn, Alf 208 Chaukhamba I 278 Couchepin, G 209 Bhagikashahri, Jiwa Nala, India 34 BT Challenge 255 Cheney, Mike 169, 170 Couloir au bout du Monde 244 Bhagirathi II 22, 274, 278, 329 Buachaille Etive Mor 208 Cherry, Paul 167, 398, 399 86 Bionnassay, Aiguille de 210 Buccella, Tizziano 250 Childs, Roger 403, obit 407; Craddock Massif 104, 105 Bird, Patrick 100; Buckle, Derek his article 31; 42; his Chile, article 97; 231, 312; Craig, David 225 Bishop, Barry 196, 198 article 107; 294, 324, 476, biog 478 Chimbote, Chile 109, 112 Creag an Dubh Loch 256, 258, 259, 261 Blackshaw, Alan 77, 397, author obit Bullock, Nick vi, 45; 259, 287, 323, 331, China and Tibet, Area Notes, 242, 292; Creag Meagaidh (Crab Crawl) 160, 161 412; 451 479 China Tibet Mountaineering Assoc. 288 Creswell, Robert (Bob) 403, obit 409; Blanc, Pierre 208 Bura, Tejbir 77 Chogolisa 176, 211 Crettex, Maurice 206, 209 Blessed, Brian 371 Burdet, Denis 248 Cholatse 289 Crettex, Jules 209 Boardman, Pete 186 Burgener, Alexander 207 Chomiomo, Sikkim 211 Crew, Pete 165, 166 Boardman Tasker Prize 402 Burgener, Heinrich 208 Chomolhari 215, 221 Crippa, Paulo 252 Bohórquez, Antonio Gómez 242, author Burke, Mick 162; Chomo Lonzo 191 Crocket, Ken 200, 394 Peru Notes 301; Burnell, Tony 298 Chomolungma 228, 374 Croux, Laurent 210 Bonatti Direct 248 Burslem, Tom 144; Chongra Main, South 267 Crowberry Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor Bonington, Chris 79, 84, 86; 162; 182, 284; 290, 373; 421, 424; 209 186; 188, 370; 398, 445; 460; C Chorley, Roger 205 Cuillin Ridge, Skye 213 Book of Minutes, Winchester Ice Club Café Royal 188 Ciarforon 147, 153 Cumming, S M 208 199; Cairn Gorm 167 Cima, Claudio 251 Cunningham, John 196 Boothby, Lord 79 Cairngorms 258, 388, 394; 408, 455 Cima Scotini 252 Curran, Jim, book review 341; 399, 401 Boulter, Patrick ‘Paddy’, 403, obit 406; Cairngorms (The): 100 Years of Cima Una 207 Cuthbertson, Smiler, author obit 404 Bowron, H E 212 Mountaineering by Greg Strange, reviewed Civetta 251 Boysen, Martin 85, 165; 183, 372, 445, 463 394; Clarke, Jack 208 D Bradey, Lydia 294, 323, 328 Calciati, Count Cesare 211 Clark, William Inglis 200 Dalai Lama 284, 373, 375, 429 Brailsford, John 83, 350; Cambridge University Mountaineering Cleare, John 159; 182, 200 Darran Mountains 298, 299 Braithwaite, Paul, 75, 450, Valedictory Club 183 Clennett, Margaret 113 Dashaur peak, Kullu 39, 41, 44 Address 459; 471, 474, 476, biog 477 Campanile Basso 211 Climate Change 233 Daxue Shan 293, 323 486 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 I n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 487

Day, Henry 113, his article 181; biog 478 Eight Women-climbers Peak 262 Freshfield, Douglas 275 382, 385, 392, 394, 395, 397, author obits Day, Robin obit 403, 412 Eismeer station 207 Friedrichs, Viktor von 208 426, 436, biog 479 Deavoll, Pat v, her article 3; 21; 269, El Cardonal, Los Quemados, Gran Fulton, Alasdair 256 Gordon, Alistair 403 271, 272, 324, 329 biog 478 Canaria 139, 142 Furggen ridge 210 Gore, Jerry, review 350 Deep Powder and Steep Rock: The Life of… El Colaz, Dolomites 252 Fyffe, Allen 160 Gormly, Peter 356 Hans Gmoser, by Chic Scott, reviewed Ellerton, John, review 354 Gowing, Richard, author obit 448 368 99, 101, 102, 106 G Graham, Alex 208 Dehms, O 209 Estcourt, Nick 52, 183, 323, 332 Gabarrou, Patrick 246, 249 Graham, Peter 208 Dempster, Kyle in art 64; 268, 294, 296, Evening Light by Roger Hubank, reviewed 352 Gabulow, Michael 211 Gran Canaria 137; 323, 331 Evêque 245 Gangotri 20, 21, 278 Grand Capuçin 85 Denali 208, 320, 328, 368, 410, 437, 462 Everest, 76, 78; 92, 101, 166, 168, 186, Gardien, Claude 80 210, 246, 291, 461, 463 Deniel, Simon 249 190; 199, 217, 228, 229, 276, 279, 286, Gardyloo Gully, Ben Nevis 202 Grand Pilier d’Angle 244 Dent Blanche 209, 249 288, 290, 319 341, 366; 370, 371, 374, Garhwal Himalaya 19; 208, 211, 274, Gran Paradiso 143; 428 Dent d’Hérens 206 375, 379, 382, 402, 411, 417; 425, 428, 278; 329, 413, 429, 446 Grasping for Heaven: Interviews with North Deoban, Garhwal 274, 278 432; 446 Garibotti, Rolando 89 American Mountaineers by Frederic V Deo Tibba, Kullu 43 Everett, Roger 87 Garula Kang, Bhutan, painting 1 Hartemann and Robert Hauptman, Depaoli, Davide 251 Gasherbrum II 268, 269 reviewed 381 Desio, Ardito 341 F Gasherbrum IV 89, 90 Gray, Dennis 167, 398; Dhaulagiri 185, 187, 286, 287, 288, 290 F6 227, 228 Gaspard, Dévouassoud 206 Great Himalayan National Park 31; Dibona, Angelo 207 Fagan, Patrick 414 Gaspard, Joseph 210 Great Trango Tower 269 Dingjung Ri, Nepal 290; Farol Far East, Pakistan 271 Gaurishankar 170, 291, 296 Great White Jade Heist article 62; Djangart, Kyrgyzstan 262, 263, 333 Farol West, Pakistan 272 Gay, Sébastien 248 Greenald, Denis, author obit 450 Dolomites 137, 207, 211, 250, 251, 378 Faur, Freda Du 208 Geologfjord 255 Green, Doré 246 Dongusorun, Caucasus 208 Faux, Ronald review 366, review 377 Gerin, Richard 211 Green, Kai 109, 110, 113 Dorje Lakpa 168, 169, 170, 171 Fava, Gabriel 314 Gifford, Terry article 223; reviews 359, Greenland 92, 121; 242, 253; 362, 389 Doughty, A H 212 Feltrine Group 252 360, 365, biog 478 Gregory, Alfred 194, 403, obit 420; Douglas, Ed 75, 376, 402, obits by 409, 424 Ferrari, Dante 211 Gillie, Darcey 154 Greig, F 208 Downes, Bob 224 Ferrari, Ivo 4 Gillie, Martin article 143; biog 479 Grépon, Aiguille du 210, 469 Drasdo, Harold 452 Fickweiler, Martin 254 Gillman, Peter vi, article 159; article Griffin, Lindsay 46, article 83; 93, 242, Drasdo, Neville 452 Fiescherhorn 91 199; review 370, review 398, biog 479 Alps Notes 243; 267, 276, 284, 323, 476, Drifika, Karakoram 174, 176 Figg, Paul, 18; 329 Gill, Mike 194; biog 479 Duff, Jim 356 Finch, George 76 Gippenreiter, Eugene 78 Grindelwald 91, 379 Dumas, Martial 248 Finsteraarhorn 245, 411, 437 Glacier Bay 320 Grmovsek, Andrej 244, 246, 247, 252 Dwada Thach, Jiwa Nala, India 36, 38 Fischer, Walter 208, 211 Glacier de la Tribulation, Gran Paradiso Grossglockner 211 Dyhrenfurth, Günther 77, 276 Fitch, Walter Hood 192 144, 149, 150 Gross Wannenhorn 206 FitzRoy 165, 396 Glacier de Laveciau, Gran Paradiso Groupe de Haute Montagne 80; E Flakes, Jugs & Splitters: A Rock Climber’s 149 Grünhorn 91, 436, 437 Eagle Ski Club 40 Guide to Geology by Sarah Garlick, Glacier de Tsasset, Gran Paradiso 150, Gulaba, Kullu 40 Earle, L M 208 reviewed 395 151 Güllich, Wolfgang 271 Eaton, J E C 208 Fordham, Derek 242, Greenland Notes Glaser, Irma 211 Echevarría, Evelio review 396 253; 409, biog 478 Glen Coe 260 H Ecrins Massif 350 Fowler, Mick, 20, 22, article 53; 256, Global Climate Change Alliance 238 Hagen, Gemma 113 Edwards, John Richard Wilson 403, obit 414 287, 296, 322, 329, 331, 352, 462, 463, Global Environment Facility 238 Hainz, Christoph 248, 252 Edwards, Menlove 229 474, 476, biog 478 Gombu, Nawang 403, obit 417; Hall, Ian 253 Eiger 77, 92, 160, 162; 167, 236, 248, Fraser, George 194, 224 Goodwin, Stephen, Foreword v, Hamilton, David, article 99; biog 479 387, 395, 415; 425; 459; 462, 475 Fredriksen, Jean-Yves 248 article190, reviews 357, 372, 378, 381, Hannam, Phil 254 488 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 I n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 489

Harding, John , author obit 407; Huascarán Norte 301, 302 Jones, H O 206, 208, 209 Keelan, Dougie 185; Harlin II, John 87, 162; Huayhuash 301, 303, 307 Jones, Wendell, author obit 406 Kejser Franz Josephs Fjord 255 Harrer, Heinrich 77 Huber, Alex 88 Jonge, Niek de 254 Kellas, Dr Alexander 211, 276 Harris, Michael 194 Huber, Tomas and Alexander 271 Jongsang, Nepal 275; 285 Kellas Col 276 Hasenclever, Eleonore 210 Hudson, John 38 Jopuno, India 329 Kellas Peak 275, 276 Haston, Dougal 79, 162; 183, 188; 371; 445 Hudson, Mary Ann 160 Jori, F 211 Kempe, John William Rolfe 403, obit 429 Hawkins, Stewart, article 464; biog 479 Hudson, Paul 113 Jossi, Christian 206 Kennedy, Michael 193, 475 Hawley, Elizabeth 189, 284, 381, 382 Hug, Dr Oscar 77, 208 Journal of the Italian Expedition to Kentish, John 39, 44 Hawthorn, Doug 256 Hughes, Glyn 205 K2 – 1954 by Pino Gallotti, reviewed 341 Keynes, Geoffrey 199 Hayward, John 44 Humar, Tomas 286 Julian Alps 207 Khani Basar Sar, Pakistan 271 Head, Bernard 208 Huntington, Andy 256 Jungfrau/joch 91, 157, 207, 211, 213 Khan Tengri 65, 262 Healey, Eileen 403, obit 424 Hut Builder (The) by Laurence Fearnley, Khrei Ra Jot, Kullu 43, 44 Heckmair, Anderl 77 reviewed 359; K Khumbu 193, 196; 284, 287; 330, 417 Helff, Max 210 K2 14, 89, 174, 176, 267, 269, 272, 337; Kichatna 327 Hempleman-Adams, David 80 I 437 Kilimanjaro 356, 415, 442 Herbert, Wally 80 Ice Wings II Expedition 254 K2: Lies and Treachery by Robert Kimber, Alan 200 Hermann, Moritz 253 India 18; 31; 39; 76, 92, 172, 192, 212, Marshall, reviewed 337 Kinshofer Route, Nanga Parbat 17 Hersey, Paul, 4; 324 228, 233, 242, 272, India Notes 273; 322, K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Kirkus, Colin 229 Herzog, Maurice 182; 187; 390; 393, 419, 424, 431, 435, 436, 446, Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs with Kishtwar 273, 446 Herzog, Theodor 212 447 David Roberts, reviewed 337 Klammer, Josef 207 Hewson, Mike 403 Indrasan, Himachal Pradesh 43, 279 K6 172, 175; Klenov, Alexander 81 Hextall, Ron, author obit 414 Inmaculado (5312m) 212 K7 West 173, 176, 269, 272 Kluane Icefields 320 Heywood, Marcus 206 Innerdale, John, his paintings 1, 73, 97, Kabru 276, 430, 446 Knott, Paul 55, 62, article 114; 242, Hidden Peak 267; 135, 157, 179, 215, 231, 241, 335, 457, Kalagoff, Inaltico 208 Kyrgyzstan Notes 262, 301, 320, 476, High Atlas 135 and article 217; review 358; biog 480 Kalanka 277 biog 480 Hillary 195, 197, 198, 217, 279, 359, International Trad Climbing Meet 90 Kaltber 208 Knubel, Josef 206, 209 360, 374, 417, 418, 420, 422, 423 In the Footsteps of Mallory and Irvine: The Kamet 208, 211, 279, 446 Kohler, Thomas, article 233; Hill, Frederick 403 Wildest Dream by Mark Mackenzie, Kampire Dior, Pakistan 3 Kokshaal-Too, Kyrgyzstan 325 Himachal Pradesh 20, 34, 38, 279 reviewed 366 Kandi Galu pass 31, 34 Kölblinger, Wolfgang 16 Himalayan Club 31, 33, 275, 282, 429, Irving, Graham 199; Kangchenjunga 46, 47, 51; 82, 190, 211, Komac, Joze 208 433, 435, 446 Isherwood, Christopher 224 217, 276, 286, 287, 289, 323 Königspitze 209 Hindu Kush 7, 235, 272 Isherwood, Dick, article 168; 242, Kangchenjunga Himal 46 Nyambo Konka, West Sichuan 323 Hinkes, Alan 189 Pakistan Notes 267; Nepal Notes 284, Kangerlussuak 253, 254 Konkordiaplatz 91 Hinku valley 46 294, 324, 329, biog 480 Kangri Karpo 292; Kor, Layton 162, 163 Hirondelles Ridge 210 Islamabad 3; 10, 16, 391 Kapadia, Harish, 31, 80, 242, India Koshelenko, Yuri 81 Hispar glacier 9 Notes 273; 390, 419, biog 480 Krakauer, Jon 339, 341 Hodgkiss, Peter vi, 403, obit 426; J Kara Gakar 325 Kranj, Lukic 252 Hoekstra, Gerke 255 Jachacunocollo, Bolivia 212 Karakoram 3; 16, 77, 89, 172; 267, 269, Kroher, Richard 207 Hoher Göll 207 Janahut, India 20, 329 272, 275, 280, 322, 337, 390, 391, 423, Krol, Rafal 253 Holzknecht, Adam 250 Jannu 51, 82, 89 446 Kuhfahl, Gustav 208 Hooker, Joseph Dalton 190 Janody, Jeremy 244 Karim Sar, Pakistan 3; 269, 271, 272 Kuilu range, Kyrgyzstan 263 Hörnli Ridge 248, 341, 460 Jasper, Robert 248 Kasbek, Caucasus 211 Kukuczka, Jerzy 78, 80, 90, 436 Houseman, Andy, article 45; 287, 323, Jatún Chacua 301, 307 Kasparek, Fritz 77 Kullu 33, 36, 38, 39; biog 479 Jensen, Susan, review 388 Kathmandu 15, 343, 365, 366, 382 Kumaon 20 House, Steve 82, 176, 269, 346, 398, 402 Jiwa Nala 31; Kebnekaise, Sweden 327 Kumar, Satish 92 Howard, Tom 255 Johnson, Lee 44 Kedarnath 278 Kumaun Himalaya 277 490 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 I n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 491

Kun Lun 296 Loretan, Erhard 188, 403, obit 436; Melchior, Anthoine 254 Françoise Besson reviewed 385 Kurtyka, Voytek 80, 90, 436 Los Quemados, Gran Canaria 139 Menzies, D H 208 Mount Cook 213, 300, 360 Kurz, Marcel 206, 209 Lötschberg Tunnel 210; Mera Peak 288, 411, 455 Mount Edgar 293 Kwangde Shar, Nepal 284 Lovatt, Jerry, 221, 294, 468; biog 480 Meru Shark’s Fin 278 Foundation, 10, 30, 52, Kyrgyzstan 242, Notes 262; 325, 326, Lowe, George 193, 421, 422 Messner, Reinhold 78, 80, 82, 181; 268, 61, 120, Expedition Reports 319 331; 465 Lowther, Jim 280, 322 347, 374, 436, 475 102 Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan 264; 325 Lukic, Marko 244, 246, 247, 449 Meyer, Maud 206 Mount Hua Shan 297 Lund, Fleming 254 Michas, Paul 247 Mount Hunter 22 L Lunn, Sir Arnold 213 Midi, Aiguille du 210, 335, 457 Mount Malte Brun 208 Lachenal, Louis 187, 189, 420 Lynam, James (Joss) 403, obit 438; Milivinti, Moris 250 Mount Sefton 208 Ladakh 272; 280, 390; 418 Milledge, Jim 193, 196; 101 Lagarde, Jacques 93 M Millerioux, Hélias 246 Mount Tyree 102 La Grivola 143, 145, 148, 151, 428 Machu Picchu 241 Millichamp, Laura 31, 37, 38 Mount Vinson 99 Lahlibati, Jiwa Nala 38 MacInnes, Hamish 161, 398, 399 Mingora, Pakistan 4 Mt Blanc du Tacul 86 La Leggenda 245 MacLeod, Dave 256, 257, 260, 394 Miotti, Giuseppe 250 Mt Epperly 99, 437 Langtang 169, 170, 287 Mahi, Kullu 40 Miristi Khola, Nepal 183 Mt Kenya 414, 442 Larcher, Rolando 251 Makalu 191; 195, 197, 217, 286, 289, Mi-sun, Go 16 Mt Logan 133 Last Man (The) on the Mountain by 372, 418 Mitchta 247 Mt Rutford 104, 106 Jennifer Jordan, reviewed 337 Mallory, George 76; 145, 166, 196; 366, Mittersteiner, Roland 252 Mt Shinn 99, 103, 106 Lates, Mike 256 371, 417, 420, 426, 428 Modiste, Nepal 184, 187 Mt Tyree 99, 103 Latok II 87, 269, 361 Manali 38; Mönch 91, 236, 392 Mt Vinson 99, 102, 106 Latok IV 271 Manaslu 182, 186, 187, 286 Montagnes magazine 80; Muir, John 93 La Tresenta 147, 153, 154 Marie, Sebastien de Sainte 243 Montaña de Ojeda, Gran Canaria 139 Mukut Parvat 274, 279 Lawford, Robert, obit 433 Marmier, Jean-Claude 81 84; 144, 206, 209; 213, 243, Mullach nan Coirean 202 Leach, Guy 199 Marmolada 250 245, 353, 378, 386, 416, 424, 463 Mullin, Nic 246 Ledge Route 203 Martin, Alfred von 206 Mont Brouillard 244 Munro, Margaret 403 Lee, Guy 75 Maselli, Daniel article 233; 209 Murder in the High Himalaya by Jonathan Lee Johnson 42, 44 Masherbrum 172, 174, 176, 211, 224 Monte Agner 251 Green, reviewed 373 Lenzspitze 210 Mason, Kenneth 212 Monte Disgrazia 207 Murisier, Léonce 209 Leoni, Fabio 251 Maspes, Luca 249 Monte Rosa 357; 377, 444 Murray, Bill 93 Leo, Sergio de 243 Matterhorn 77, 92, 179, 203, 206, 209; Monte Rosa: Königin der Alpen by Daniel Mur Samir 265 Le Reveil de L’Ours 243, 244 213, 227, 248; 341, 357; 378, 448; Anker and Marco Volken, reviewed 357 Mustagh Tower 269 Les Brenvitudes 244 Mayr, Much 250 Mont Noir de Peuterey 245 Muzart glacier 54, 62, 65 Le Sourire de Romain 249 McArtney, Jim 160 Mont Roc 149 Muztagh Tower 16 Lewald, Theodor 77 McDonald, Bernadette, review 343 Monzino Ridge 12 My Life, Volume One: To Be Brave, by Lhonak Peak 276 McDonnell, Gerard 344 Moran, Martin 274 Royal Robbins, reviewed 360 Lhotse 191, 217, 286, 289, 411, 437 McIntyre, Ann 169 Morris, James (Jan) 370 Lingsarmo, Zanskar 273 McKinnon, Guy 55, 62 Moss, John 403, 440 N Lingshi Dzong 221; McLaren, A C 212 Moulin, André, article 468; biog 480 Naess, Arne 93 Littlejohn, Pat 79, article 137; 263; 287, Meade, C F 208 Moulin, Christophe 247, 352 Nagtivit, Greenland 253 biog 480 Meade, F 209 Mountaineering in Antarctica by Damien Naismith, William, 200 203 Living Waves: Form & Rhythm in the Art of Medicine for Mountaineering, edited by Gildea, reviewed 345 Nakamura, Tamotsu 293; 297 John Ruskin, exhib reviewed 385 James Wilkerson, reviewed 354 Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, Nakra Tau, Caucasus 208 Lochmatter, Josef 209 Meier, Sonja 253 8th edition, reviewed 397 Nanda Devi East 277, 446 Longstaff, Tom 168, 176, 208, 390 Meije 228, 247 Mountains Figured and Disfigured in Nanga Parbat 11; 107, 172, 176, 267, Longyearbyen, Svalbard 255 Melanphulan, Nepal 288 the English-speaking World, edited by 269, 346, 437 492 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 I n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 493

Native Stones, David Craig 225, 229 P Pik Hilarie, Kyrgyzstan 264 Pumarikish, Pakistan 271 Negi, JR 40 Paine, Horns of 231 Pik Howard-Bury, Kyrgyzstan 263 Pumori 15, 436 Nemjung 288, 289 Pakistan 3; 176, 228, 242, Pakistan Pik Katherine, Kyrgyzstan 264 Punjab Himalaya 208 Nepal 242, 284, 373, 375, 429 Notes 267; 332; 391, 437, 446, 454 Pik Lyell, Kyrgyzstan 264 244 Neu, Urs 233; Pallavicini couloir, Grossglockner 211 Pik Neizvestniy, Kyrgyzstan 264 Puryear, Joe 296 Nevado Chacua Grande 309 Palti, Kathleen, review 381 Pik Plaza, Kyrgyzstan 263; Nevado Cuchpanga 308 Pamirs 75, 78, 229, 461, 464; Pik Pobeda, Kyrgyzstan 65, 262 Q Nevado Tinki 304, 305 Panizza, Emanuel 249 Pik Sutherland, Kyrgyzstan 262 Qilian Shan, China 295 Neve, Dr Arthur 208 Parimbell, Yuri 4 Pik Sylvia, Kyrgyzstan 264 Quinag, 159; Neve, Dr Ernest 212 Parkin, Andy 290; 330, 462 Pik Thornes, Kyrgyzstan 264 Newman, Bernard, review 383, biog 480 Paroi de Titans 246 Pik Zastava (5070m), Kyrgyzstan 263 R New Monte Rosa Hut, SAC, reviewed 358 Pasang Lhamu Chuli (also known as Pilastro del Serauta, Dolomites 250 Rabicano, Chile 109 New Zealand 3, 5, 10, 208, 233, 242, Jasamba), Nepal 287 Pilkington, Mount 208 Raeburn, Harold 200, 203, 207, 208 271, 279, NZ Notes, 316, 319, 320, 323, Patagonia 89, 165, 346, 402, 441, 442 Piola, Michel 85 Rakaposhi 9 324, 325, 328, 360, 402, 446 Patey, Tom 160; 224, 394, 398 Piolets d’Or 80; Rakhiot 267 Niven, Bruce 183, 186 Pauhunri, Sikkim 211, 276 Pitschmann, Otto 211 Ramsden, Paul, 20, 22, 53; 296, 329, 331 Noake, Mary 403 Payne, Roger 78 Piz Badile 250 Ramtang Chang (aka Chang Himal) 45; Nodari, Francesco Rota 244 Peak 5567, Bhutan 222 Piz Bernina 209, 249 287 Nomad Domes , Kyrgyzstan 266 Peak Abu, Kyrgyzstan 265 Piz d’Arlas 249 Randall, Val, review 352 Noon, L 208 Peak D41, Punjab Himalaya 208 Piz Morteratsch 249 Ratichho, Jiwa Nala 36 Normand, Bruce 3, 55, article 62; 294, Peak Lenin 75, 78 Pizzo Sella 250 Ravanel, Joseph and Camille 209 296, 323, 331; biog 481 Pelham-Burn, Charles (Hamish) 403 Pk Koopsyz, Kyrgyzstan 263 Raven Peak, Kyrgyzstan 265 Northumberland Island 255 Pélissier, Jean Baptiste 206 Plateau Peak 275, 282 Rébuffat, Gaston 85 Norton, Edward 77 Pelvoux 246, 449 Platz, Ernst 211 Rébuffat route, 335, 457 Novak, Skip, author obit 440 Pembroke Vols 3 & 4: Range East by Gary Playing the Man: a biography of Capt J P Remarkables Range 298 No Way Down – Life and Death on K2 by Gibson et al, reviewed 383 Farrar by Barry Imeson, reviewed 378 Rémy, Simon 247 Graham Bowley, reviewed 337 Penning, Tony 245 Pobeda West 262 Renland, NW 254 Noyce, Wilfrid 223; 418, 422, 464; Periard, Christophe 253 Pointe Croz 246 Resurgence magazine 92 Nubra valley 281; 391 Perrin, Jim 93, 362 Pointe de l’Herbetet 151 Revest, Robin 246 Nugent, Frank, author obit 438; Pertemba 186 Pointe Puiseux 246 Rham, Casimir de 208 Nun 208, 273; Peru 234, 241; Peru Notes 301; 410, 430, Pointe Rousse 148 Richardson, Simon 242, 244, 245, 246, Nyenchen Tangla East 294 449, 459, 461 Pokorski, Norbert 253 Scottish Notes 256; 394; biog 481 Petit Clocher du Portalet 85 Pollinger, Josef 209 Richards, Ronnie 78 O Petites Jorasses 85 Popowich, Jon, reviews 346; 368; Richey, Mark 281; Obra Valley, Garhwal 329 Pettigrew, Robert 435 Porter, John review 347; 380, review Riegler, Florian and Martin 250, 252 Observatory Gully, Ben Nevis 202, 260 Phangchi Galu pass 31, 38 392, 476 Rimo Expeditions 38 Ogre 270; Piacenza, Mario 206 Pra, Pietro dal 250 Rising to the Challenge: 100 years of the Okada, Yasushi 133 Piaz, Tita 211 Presumptuous Pinnacle Ladies, Margaret Ladies Scottish Climbing Club by Helen Oliver, Des 223 Pico Polaco, Argentine Andes 313; Clennett, reviewed 387 Steven, reviewed 388 Omega Foundation 100 Pik 4766m, Kyrgyzstan 262 Preuss, Paul 211 Rivaud, Manu 80 One Mountain Thousand Summits by Pik 4905m, Kyrgyzstan 263 Prezelj, Marko 82, 274, 278 Rizzi, Luigi 207 Freddie Wilkinson, reviewed 343 Pik 5291m, Kyrgyzstan 262 Prinoth, Mario 252 Robbins, Royal 360, 365 Orton, K J P 208 Pik Anin, Kyrgyzstan 263 Prosser, Andy 255 Roberts, David 181, 338, 340 Otegui, Rikar 245 Pik Byiely (Grand Poohbah), Kyrgyzstan Pt.660, Greenland 253 Roberts, Michael 224, 226, 228 Otto, Bruce 208 263 Pugh, Griffith 195, 198, 421 Robertson, Brian 87 Owens, Gerry 182; Pik Granitsa, Kyrgyzstan 264, 265 Puma Dablam 196 Robertson, Guy, 258; 494 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 I n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 495

Robinson, Frederick Robert (Bob) 403, Savoia Peak 316, 317 Singekang Valley, India 330 Suatisi Khokh, Caucasus 208 obit 443; Savoye, Cyprien 211 Singh, Khem 21 Sublirari Thach, Jiwa Nala 34 Roccia Viva 144; 148, 154 Scanu, Marcelo 242, Argentine Notes Skillebugt, Greenland 254 Sulamar 55; 284, 290, 296 Rodway, George, article 193; 275, biog 311; biog 481 Skye, Isle of 161, 212, 256, 260, 448, 451 Summers, Julie 401 481 Scarian, Riccardo 251, 252 Small, Iain, 258; Summerton, Richard 184 Roget, F F 209 Scarlet, Samuele 251 Smith, Frank Glover 223 Supersaxo, Othmar 210 Rohtang pass 39; Schäli, Roger 248 Smith, Janet Adam 228 Surcouf, Raoul 254 Rohtang Ri, Kullu 40; Schanze, R 209 Smith, Walter Haskett 202 Surviving K2 by Wilco van Rooijen Rolwaling Himal 291 Schauer, Robert 90 Smith, Wilbur 199, 205 reviewed 340 Romanes, Wally 196, 198 Scheidegg Wetterhorn 248 Smythe, Frank 137, 140, 142, 275; Sustad, Steve 137, 140, 142 Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete by Ron Fawcett Schjelderup, Ferdinand 208 Snow and Mixed Climbs: Vol 1 Ecrins East, Sutton, Geoffrey 224 with Ed Douglas, reviewed 376 Schlunegger, Hans 211 Cerces, Queyras by Sébastien Constant, Svalbard 255, 409 Ronti, Garhwal 279 Schmidt, Toni 77 reviewed 350 Swat valley 3 Roque Nublo 138 Scholar Mountaineers by Wilfrid Noyce Snowcock Point, Jiwa Nala 31, 37; Swiss Alpine Club 91, 249, 358, 406 Rovelli, Roberto 244 229 Snowdon 92, 225, 388, 450, 452, 453 Rowlands, Clive 75 Schuster, Oscar 208, 211 Snow Leopard Peak, Jiwa Nala 34; T Royer, Michael 263 Scott, Doug vi, 12, article 75; 438, Snow Leopard (The) by Peter Matthiessen, Taboche 287 Rubenson, Carl 208 author obit 445; 459, 461; biog 482 reviewed 382; Tahu Rutum 268, 332 Rufz, Jean de 209 Scottish Mountaineering Club 199,; 426 Soldner, Mike 107 Tai Poutini Westland National Park 300 Rumpelt, Hermann 206 Scott, Martin 33, 476, Somervell, Howard 77 Tangula Shan 295 Rungofarka, Zanskar 273 Scrambles Amongst the Alps 213 Son Kul canyon, Kyrgyzstan 266 Tardivel, Pierre 243 Rushby, John 113 Seelig, Carl 212 Southgate, Dominic 254 Taylor, Ali 245 Ruskin 92, 219, 363, 385; Sella, Vittorio 146; 151; South Georgia 318, 346, 442 Taylor, William 208 Russell, C A (Christopher) article 206; Sentinel Peak 35; 38, 211 South Pole 99 Temple, John 113 author obit 433; biog 481 99, 101, 103, 106, 437 Spantik 269, 271; Tenderini, Mirella, review 341; Ruth Gorge 319, 321, 328 Shaanxi Province 297 Spreafico, Dario 252 Tenzing Norgay 374, 417; 420; 425, 459 Ruthven, Bill, MEF reports 319, biog Shadbolt, Leslie 212 Staleman, Jelle 254 Thacker, James, author obit 453; 481 Shaluli Shan 294 Staub, Rudolf 209 Three Pigs (The), Antartic Peninsula Shamshi, Kullu 38 Staunings Alps 254 315, 317 S Shark’s Tooth, Greenland 255 Stedtind 208 Theurillat, Thomas 248 Saar, Günter von 210 Shawcross, Alistair 253 Steeple, E W 212 Theytaz, Louis 209 Sagu Nala, Kullu 43 Shepton, Bob vi, article 121; 255, biog Steiner, Karl 206, 209 Thin Places: A Pilgrimage Home by Ann Sainj valley, Jiwa Nala 38 482 St Elias Range 321 Armbrecht reviewed 372; Salkeld, Audrey 425 Shilinbar glacier, Pakistan 7, 324 Stenros, Timo 253 Thirty Men and a Girl by Elizabeth Parry Sandhu, Balwant Singh 403, obit 445; Shipton, Eric 93, 137, 140, 142 Stephens, Rebecca 79 reviewed 377 Sangamarmar, Pakistan 9 Siachen glacier 211 Stob Coire nan Lochan 260 Thurston, Bill, author obit 443; 476 Sanguineti, Marcello 243 Siachen Glacier: The Battle of Roses by Stone Masters (The): California Rock Tibet, Area Notes 242, 292; San Lorenzo 322 Harish Kapadia, reviewed 390 Climbers in the Seventies by John Long, Tibetan Plateau 295; Saser Kangri, E Karakoram 275, 280; Sichuan 20, 292, 323, 324, 331; reviewed 347; Tien Shan vi, 53; 62; 262, 264, 296; 323; 322, 418 Siegrist, Stefan 248 Stone, Peter 403 331; Sass Maor 251 Sierra Bella 109; 113 Storr (The), Coire Scamadal 256 Tierra del Fuego 314, 442 Sassolungo 250 Signorelli, Luca 243 Stremfelj, Andre 82 Tiger (The): A True Story of Vengeance and Satopanth, Garhwal 20, 26, 29, 274 Siguniang 292 Strutt, Edward 76 Survival by John Vaillant reviewed 380; Satyabrata (Satya) Dam 20 Sikkim 211, 275; 329, 418; 446; Stuflesser, Franz 250 Tingchen Khang, Sikkim 275, 277 Saunders, Victor 330, 363, review 373; Silver Hut 193; Stuflesser, Manuel 250 Tirich Mir 184, 272 Sautier, J 209 Simpson, Joe 288 Stump, Mugs 88 Tiso, Graham 184 496 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 I n d e x 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 497

Todhunter, Ralph 210 Vasuki Parbat 18; 329 Woodhead, A G 212 Tondini, Nicola 252 Vaughan, Pat 403, 450; Workman, Fanny Bullock 209 Toroloc, Kyrgyzstan 265 Venables, Stephen 358, 403, author obit Workman, William Hunter 209 Torre Delago 211 417; 420 Wright, Alan 403 Torre del Gran San Pietro 144, 152 Vergoni, Geremia 250 Wynne-Jones, Dave, article 39; 113, 294, Torre Trieste 252 Vertical magazine 80 324, 476, biog 482 Torugart-Too range, Kyrgyzstan 265, 333 Victorians in the Mountains: Sinking the 209 Sublime by Ann C Colley, reviewed 385 X Towers of Paine 97 Viesturs, Ed 338, 340; Xinjiang (W China), in art 53; in art 62; Town, John 242, 292, 294, 473, 476 Vilcanota 301; 262, 292, 295, 331, 465 Trango Pulpit 88 Vilhauer, Jared 64 Xuelian/East/Feng, in art 53; in art 62, Trango Tower 269, 271 Vörg, Wiggerl 77 296, 323 Tribulation Point, Jiwa Nala 33; 36, 38 Triolet 246 W Y Troillet, Jean 248, 436 Wakatipu Region 298, 300 Yanamax, Xinjiang 64, 65 Trommsdorff, Christian 80 Wakhan 333, 478 Yangmolong, China 324 Trümpler, P 206 Walker, Chris 403, obit 453; Yates, Simon 321, review 376, 403 Tsmiakom Khokh, Caucasus 211 Wallace, Louis 153 Yokoyama, Katsutaka 133 Tsoboje, Rolwaling, Nepal 170, 177 Wandel Peak 316, 317 Yosemite 84, 403, 453, 454, 455 Tsumzong Kangri, E Karakoram 282 Ward, Mike 196, 198 Young, Geoffrey Winthrop 206, 209; Tuma, H 208 Warm, Sverri 254 213, 224, 227 229, 370, 378 Tunstall, Duncan 244, 245 Weber, Albert 211 Tupungatito, Chile 111; Weber, Ralph 248 Z Tupungato, Chile 107; Wedge Peak (Chang Himal) 45; 287, 323 Zaalay Pamir 266 Turk, Christian 249 Weissmies 206 Zahnkofel 250 Turnbull, Dave 256 Weitzenböck, Richard 210 Zambetti, Nicolas 248; Turner, Andy, 257, 260; 394 Welch, Martin 256 Zanskar 273; Turner, Jacqueline, review 387; Western Kokshaal-Too, Kyrgyzstan 263, Zartosh, Tajikistan 325 Twight, Mark 355; 325, 326, 332 Zeller, Max 207 Tyndale, Harry 205 West by Jim Perrin, reviewed 362 Zermatt 145, 209, 357, 359, 377, 407, Weyers, Chris 254 428, 429, 444, 448, 449 U Whillans, Don 79, 162, 163, 183, 189 Zhungar Alatau, Kazakhstan 326 UIAA 78, 87 Whiteley, Tim 113 Zmutt Ridge 201, 203, 207, 468 Ullen, Erik 76 Whymper, Edward vi, 80, 212; 357, 370, Unjustifiable Risk? The Story of British 396, 474 Climbing by Simon Thompson, reviewed Wickens, Phil 242, 315; review 345, biog 370 482 Unterkircher, Karl 250 Wigram, Rev Marcus 208 Uttarakhand 20 Wilmhurst-Smith, Robin 246 Uttarakhand 277 Wilson, Harold 79 Uttarkashi 21 Wilson, Hugh 199 Winchester Ice Club 199 V Windsor, Jeremy, article 193; 275; 330, Valeschini, Fabio 4 biog 482 Valle dell’ Orco 146 Wirthl, Helene 210 Vallon de l’Herbetet 147 Wohney Gang, Bhutan 221