DISTRIBUZIONE DEI 4000 PER NAZIONE Francia Italia Svizzera

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DISTRIBUZIONE DEI 4000 PER NAZIONE Francia Italia Svizzera Sullo spartiacque 12 29 17 All'interno della Nazione 12 10 31 club 4000 Totale 24 39 48 Gruppo della Sezione CAI di Torino Via G. Barbaroux, 1 DETTAGLIO 10121 TORINO ITALY Vetta Metri Francia Italia Svizzera Barre des Ecrins 4101 V Dôme des Ecrins 4015 V Gran Paradiso 4061 V Aig. de Bionnassay 4052 V V Dôme du Goûter 4304 V V Monte Bianco 4810 V V Mte. Bianco di Courmayeur 4765 V Picco Luigi Amedeo 4470 V Mont Brouillard 4068 V Punta Baretti 4006 V Grand Pilier d'Angle 4243 V Aig. Blanche de Peutérey 4114 V Mont Maudit 4468 V Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 V L'Isolée 4114 V Pointe Carmen 4109 V Pointe Médiane 4097 V Pointe Chaubert 4074 V Corne du Diable 4064 V Dente del Gigante 4014 V V Aiguille de Rochefort 4001 V V Dôme de Rochefort 4015 V V Punta Margherita 4065 V V Punta Elena 4045 V V Punta Croz 4110 V V Punta Whymper 4184 V V Punta Walker 4208 V V club4000.club Les Droites 4000 V [email protected] Aiguille du Jardin 4035 V Grande Rocheuse 4102 V 1 club 4000 Gruppo della Sezione CAI di Torino Via G. Barbaroux, 1 DETTAGLIO 10121 TORINO ITALY Vetta Metri Francia Italia Svizzera Aiguille Verte 4101 V Combin de Valsorey 4015 V Combin de Grafeneire 4061 V Combin de la Tsessette 4052 V Dent d'Hérens 4304 V Cervino 4810 V V Dent Blanche 4765 V V Bishorn 4470 V Weisshorn 4068 V Ober Gabelhorn 4006 V Zinalrothorn 4243 V Breithorn W West 4114 V V Breithorn centrale 4468 V V Breithorn Est /Ost 4248 V V Breithornzwillinge E 4114 V V Roccia Nera 4109 V V Pollux / Polluce 4097 V V Castor / Castore 4074 V V Lyskamm Ovest /West 4064 V V Lyskamm Est /Ost 4014 V V Punta Giordani 4001 V Piramide Vincent 4015 V Corno Nero 4065 V V Ludwigshöhe 4045 V V Parrotspitze 4110 V V Signalkuppe / Putna Gnifetti 4184 V V Zumsteinspitze 4208 V V club4000.club Pte. Dufour 4000 V [email protected] Nordend 4035 V V Strahlhorn 4102 V 2 club 4000 Gruppo della Sezione CAI di Torino Via G. Barbaroux, 1 DETTAGLIO 10121 TORINO ITALY Vetta Metri Francia Italia Svizzera Rimpfischhorn 4199 V Allalinhorn 4027 V Alphubel 4206 V Täschhorn 4491 V Dom 4545 V Lenzspitze 4294 V Nadelhorn 4327 V Stecknadelhorn 4241 V Hohbärghorn 4219 V Dirruhorn 4035 V Weissmies 4023 V Lagginhorn 4010 V Aletschhorn 4195 V Jungfrau 4158 V Mönch 4099 V Gross Fiescherhorn 4049 V Hinter Fiescherhorn 4025 V Gross Grünhorn 4044 V Finsteraarhorn 4274 V Schreckhorn 4078 V Lauteraarhorn 4042 V Piz Bernina 4049 V club4000.club [email protected] 3.

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Dufourspitze 4634M £1699
Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk 2020 trip dossier | Dufourspitze 4634m £1699 Website link | http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/dufourspitze.html Key features Climb Dufourspitze, the highest mountain in Switzerland and second highest in the Alps.. 5 days guiding (Monday - Friday), with flexible itinerary to take advantage of the best conditions. Previous crampon or climbing experience is required, as this is a progression from an Intro course. Led by top qualified guides (IFMGA), guiding ratio 1:2 throughout the course. All technical equipment (e.g. B3 boots, crampons, ice axe etc.) can be hired from Icicle 2020 dates; 5 - 11 Jul, 19 - 25 Jul, 26 Jul - 1 Aug, 9 - 15 Aug, 30 Aug -+- 5 Sep. Icicle® is the registered trademark of Icicle Mountaineering UK registered company 413 6635. VAT 770 137 933 20 years ‘inspirational mountain adventure holidays’ established in 2000 Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Course overview . Climb the highest summit of Monte Rosa; Dufourspitze 4634m. It's the highest mountain in Switzerland, and the second highest in all of the Alps after Mont Blanc. We offer a week long programme to attempt this peak, as your acclimatisation and flexibility for selecting a weather window are crucial. To keep the itinerary flexibilty, the guiding ratio is 1:2 throughout, so you can take advantage of the best days for the summit weather window.
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Workshop on Transboundary Wildlife Management
ALPBIONET2030 Integrative Alpine wildlife and habitat management for the next generation REPORT Workshop on Transboundary wildlife management 10 October 2017, Trenta, Triglav National Park, Slovenia (Alpbionet2030 – Work Package 2) Integrative Alpine wildlife and habitat management for the next generation A workshop to discuss tactics and devise actions for transboundary wildlife management between the wildlife managers of Transboundary Ecoregion Julian Alps, defined as the sum of Triglav Hunting Management Area and Gorenjska Hunting Management Area (Slovenia) and Tarvisiano Hunting District (Italy) with their core protected areas of Triglav National Park and Prealpi Giulie Nature Park, was held at the conference facilities of the “Dom Trenta” National Park house in Trenta. This Workshop is one of the activities of WP T.2 of the Alpbionet2030 project co- financed by the EU Alpine Space Programme. INTRODUCTION The behaviour and habitat use of animals can be strongly affected by hunting methods and wildlife management strategies. Hunting and wildlife management therefore have an influence on ecological connectivity. Lack of consistency in wildlife management between regions can cause problems for population connectivity for some species, particularly those with large home ranges, (e.g. some deer and large carnivores). Hunting seasons, feeding (or lack thereof), the existence of resting zones where hunting is prohibited, legal provisions for wildlife corridors, even administrative authority for wildlife management differ from one Alpine country to another. The Mountain Forest Protocol of the Alpine Convention (1996) asks parties to harmonise their measures for regulating the game animals, but so far this is only happening in a few isolated instances. Thus, to further the goals of ecological connectivity, ALPBIONET2030 aims coordinate wildlife management in selected pilot areas.
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Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left.
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4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze
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Tech Ice & Classics £1199
Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk 2020 trip dossier | Tech Ice & Classics £1199 Website link | http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/classics.html Key features A course for those wanting to climb classic Alpine routes around Chamonix and Mont Blanc. 5 days guiding (Monday - Friday), 6 night B&B accommodation in Chamonix. Develop your mountaineering skills, style points and techniques on the many different routes. Led by top qualified guides (IFMGA), ratio 1:2 throughout to keep the itinerary flexible. All technical equipment (e.g. B3 boots, crampons, ice axe etc.) can be hired from Icicle 2020 dates; 5 - 11 Jul, 19 – 25 Jul, 26 Jul – 1 Aug, 2 - 8 Aug, 9 – 15 Aug, 16 – 22 Aug, 23 - 29 Aug, 30 Aug – 5 Sep. Icicle® is the registered trademark of Icicle Mountaineering UK registered company 413 6635. VAT 770 137 933 20 years ‘inspirational mountain adventure holidays’ established in 2000 Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Course overview For those who enjoy mountaineering climbing classic routes, this course allows you to push your skills (grade III ice or UK Severe or US Grade 5.9) to attempt some of the major mixed and ice mountaineering routes around Chamonix and the Mont Blanc Massif.
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In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps.
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Del Gran Paradiso Alta Montaña Y Patrimonio Religioso En La Cima De Un Gigante De Los Alpes
16 I ESTUDIOS DEL PATRIMONIO CULTURAL 6 LA MADONNINA DEL GRAN PARADISO ALTA MONTAÑA Y PATRIMONIO RELIGIOSO EN LA CIMA DE UN GIGANTE DE LOS ALPES Constanza Ceruti I CONICET/UCASAL | [email protected] El presente trabajo aborda la veneración que recibe la Madonnina, una pe- queña imagen de la Virgen María depositada en la cima del monte Gran Paradiso, en los Alpes Occidentales. La montaña constituye la cumbre más alta situada enteramente en territorio italiano y se cuenta entre los llama- dos «gigantes alpinos» cuya altitud supera los cuatro mil metros sobre el nivel del mar. Pero a diferencia de otros macizos como el Monte Blanco o el Matterhorn, que han sido cooptados por las ascensiones comerciales y deportivas, en el monte Gran Paradiso es aún factible experimentar el al- pinismo en sus formas más tradicionales, las que no excluyen la devoción religiosa. Nuestra Señora de los Montes y de las Nieves es venerada para proteger a los alpinistas en sus ascensiones y a los pobladores que habitan en los an- gostos valles Valsaverenche y Cogne, ante la amenaza de las avalanchas invernales. El culto a la Madonnina comprende instancias de ascensos en procesión colectiva, que se efectúan esporádicamente a la cumbre del Gran Paradiso con el fin de restaurar la imagen, afectada por las fulguraciones y la intemperie. Desde un punto de vista social y político, los llamados «viajes de la Virgen a la montaña» contribuyen a cohesionar a la comunidad y a legitimar el papel de obispos y sacerdotes, siendo para los pobladores alpinos motivo de orgu- llo contar con un párroco capaz de acompañar a la pequeña virgencita en su ascenso a la gran montaña.
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IN MEMORIAM Year of the ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY Election
IN MEMORL'\M IN MEMORIAM Year of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY Election Fisher, Joel E. • • • • • • • • 1913 Murray, G. W. • • • • • • • • 1925 Brown, T. Graham • • • • • • • 1926 Wilson, General Sir Roger • • • • • • 1927 Wager, L. R. • • • • • • • • 1928 Pleydell-Bouverie, Hon. B. • • • • • • 1934 Handley, C. B. C. • • • • • • • 1960 Bazarrabusa, T. B. • • • • • • • I963 Harlin, J. • • • • • • • • • rg66 JOEL ELLIS FISHER 1891- 1966 J. E. FISHER died suddenly on January 6 while en route by car to a meeting of the Board of Directors of the Melville Shoe Company. He was in his seventy-fifth year. Born in New York City, Fisher graduated from Yale with honours in I 9 I I, the youngest man in his class, Phi Beta Kappa and Sigma XI. During World War I he was a naval lieutenant on the U.S.S. lsabel. For many years he was president of the North-western Terminal Railroad in Denver, secretary and director of the Melville Shoe Company, treasurer and vestryman of the Church of the Heavenly Rest, president of the Samaritan Home for the Aged, director of the Babson Gravity Research Foundation and the Washington Institute for Biophysical Research. He was elected to the Alpine Club in 1913, and was President of the American Alpine Club 1935- 37, having joined in I92I. He was also a member of the Swiss, French and Italian Alpine Clubs, and an honorary member of the Yale, Harvard and Colorado Mountaineering Clubs. His climbing in the Alps began in 1906 and, in a span of fifty-seven years, included over 150 major ascents. He had done the Matterhorn six times, the last in I950.
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Area Notes 1993 COMPILED by ROY RUDDLE
Area Notes 1993 COMPILED BY ROY RUDDLE The Alps Lindsay Griffin Tibet and China J6zef Nyka Bhutan J6zef Nyka India Harish Kapadia Nepal Bill 0'Connor Pakistan Paul Nunn Central Asia J6zef Nyka North America H Adams Carter South America David Sharman Middle East Tony Howard New Zealand Richard Thompson LINDSAY GRIFFIN The Alps and Pyrenees 1993 In preparing these notes Lindsay Griffin would like to acknowledge the assist ance of Patrick Gabarrou, Alison Hargreaves, Mireille Lazarevitch, Neil McAdie, Giuseppe Miotti, Brendan Murphy, Michel Piola, Andres Lietha, Simon Richardson, Ian Roper, Franci Savenc, Pierre Tardivel, John Sumner, Dick Turnbull and Dave Wilkinson. He would welcome further information and any new route descriptions for publication in these pages at: 2 Top Sling, Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd LL57 4RL. The year saw AC members involved in several important winter as cents, a continuous crossing of all the 4000m peaks in the Alps, plus a fine series of first woman solo ascents. It also saw the demise of two outstanding continental activists: Romain Vogler, one of the greatest Swiss Alpine rock-climbers and full-time guide, died at the age of 34 in a rappelling accident on a crag at Maladiere. It appears that he was making a long rappel and had not set the ropes equally, his weight com ing on to a single strand as he neared the bottom. In May Fred Vimal, France's most promising young Alpinist, was killed whilst trying to solo a hard mixed free/aid route on the Grand Capucin. He was held by his ropes after a 20m fall, but appears to have hit his head and prob ably died of hypothermia.
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512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260,
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Alpejskie 4-Tysięczniki
Alpejskie 4-tysięczniki Po zdobyciu kilku 4-ro tysięczników przyszło mi do głowy zrobienie listy (a jakże) i kompletowanie pozostałych szczytów. Na stronie Pettera znalazłem potrzebne informacje. W Alpach jest 51 szczytów o wysokości bezwzględnej powyżej 4000 metrów i wybitności nie mniejszej niż 100 metrów, czyli takich, które pasują do definicji „prawdziwej” góry. W 1994 roku UIAA ogłosiła oficjalną listę aż 82 szczytów czterotysięcznych i te dodatkowe 31 są zamieszczone na poniższej liście jako szczyty „nie ujęte w rankingu” (NR). Istnieje wiele punktów spornych na tej liście. Znajdują się na niej wierzchołki o wybitności zaledwie kilkumetrowej, podczas gdy pominięte są na niej wierzchołki o wybitności kilkudziesięciometrowej. Nie planuję wdawać się w dyskusję co jest „prawdziwą” górą a co nią nie jest. Podobnie jak przy innych projektach, tak i tu chodzi przecież o to, by być w ruchu. Kolorem zielonym oznaczam szczyty przeze mnie zdobyte, natomiast kolorem żółtym te, z którymi żadna próba do tej pory się nie powiodła. Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 01 Mont Blanc 4810 4697 PD 02 Dufourspitze 4634 2165 PD 03 Zumsteinspitze 4563 111 F 04 Signalkuppe 4556 102 F 05 Dom 4545 1018 PD 06 Liskamm (east) 4527 376 AD 07 Weisshorn 4505 1055 AD Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 08 Täschhorn 4490 209 AD 09 Matterhorn 4478 1164 AD- 10 Mont Maudit 4465 162 PD 11 Parrotspitze 4436 136 PD 12 Dent Blanche 4356 897 AD 13 Nadelhorn 4327 206 PD 14 Grand Combin 4314 1517 PD+ 15 Finsteraarhorn 4273 2108 PD 16 Mont Blanc du Tacul 4247
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Notes 1971 the Alps Colin Taytor
Notes 1971 The Alps Colin Taytor Summary The summer season of 1971 must be one of the best on record. In the Western Alps the winter snowfall was late and less than usual, so the big classic faces came into condition early and remained in good condition for much of the season, in spite of several quite big storms in late July and August. A solo first ascent and half a dozen solo ascents of major routes were made by British climbers. British parties also made ascents of important routes such as the North-west faces of the Olan and the Ailefroide in the Dauphine, the Brouillard Pillars, the Grand Pilier d'Angle, the Central Pillar of Freney and the Droites North face in the Mont Blanc region, and of the Eiger and the Matterhorn North faces. Many other British parties made notable ascents and the notes below, while not complete, are confined mainly to their achievements. Details of ascents by continental climbers can be found in Alpine Climbing and in the continental journals, particularly La Montagne and Alpinismus. I am grateful particularly to Doug Scott, the Editor of Alpine Climbing and to Ken Wilson, the Editor of Mountain for collecting much of the information on which these notes are based, and also to many others who sent in information about their routes. DAUPHINE Probably more English parties climbed in the Dauphine in the summer of 1971 than ever before. Weather conditions were good, particularly during July, although several big storms occurred in August. As a result, many of the big routes were in condition.
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