Vol.32 No.2 Spring 2013 Published by the Wilderness Committee

FREE REPORT Clayoquot Sound on the edge

's preserving canada west coast World-renowned natural wonder at risk

Torrance Coste forest conservation movement that and tourism, and they Vancouver Island Campaigner, drew worldwide attention to British compromise critical Wilderness Committee Columbia’s shockingly unsustainable endeavours like cultural hose of us coastal logging industry. continuation, salmon Tlucky enough The connection to this place rehabilitation, and forest to have driven the goes much deeper for Clayoquot’s conservation. Trans-Canada Highway to its western original inhabitants. The Ahousaht, We have the limit at the village of Tofino, BC have Hesquiaht, and Tla-o-qui-aht First opportunity to make found a region of unparalleled natural Nations have lived and thrived in Clayoquot Sound a beauty. Clayoquot Sound (pronounced the Sound since time immemorial, model for sustainability Klak-wot) is, quite simply, one of the sustainably managing their resources and environmental most incredible places in the world. and developing an intimate and sacred responsibility for all The convergence of the open relationship to these lands and waters. of BC, Canada, and Pacific Ocean and one of the last Modern conservation efforts are the world. Its intact ancient temperate rainforests on earth driven by First Nations people, who coastal temperate has created a legendary ecosystem. fight not only for the ecological rainforest watersheds It is home integrity of Clayoquot Sound are some of the last to vibrant "One of the biggest but also for their Aboriginal in Canada and they First Nations threats to Clayoquot rights and title. need to be legally cultures and One of the biggest protected forever. rich traditions, Sound is the myth that threats to Clayoquot Sound Above all, we must and it is also an it has been protected." is the myth that it has been respect Indigenous historic focal protected. rights and title, and point of the Canadian environmental Despite being designated a UNESCO follow their lead in movement. Biosphere Reserve, and despite having sustainable economic Campbell 28 River In the 1980s and ‘90s, logging globally significant intact watersheds development and Gold River Strathcona in Clayoquot Sound sparked the and some of the biggest trees in the land management. Provincial Park iconic War in the Woods – the world…much of Clayoquot Sound is Clayoquot Sound is not only Clayoquot 19 Vancouver 4 still threatened. on the edge of Canada, it’s also Sound Port Tofino Alberni Nanaimo Foreign-owned salmon farms teetering on the edge between Pacific Rim Salish Ucluelet Vancouver National Park 19 Sea and massive mine proposals have lasting preservation and further Reserve Island joined old-growth logging in environmental destruction. But we still Pacific putting constant pressure on the have a chance to do the right thing. Ocean Victoria environment and the communities With all of its history and that rely on it. These destructive potential, Clayoquot Sound is a Photo cover: Aerial shot of Clayoquot Sound (TofinoPhotography.wordpress.com). activities also threaten more true national treasure. It’s high Above: Cedar tree in Clayoquot Sound (Paul Morgan), sustainable industries like fishing time we treasure it. Left: Pacific tree frog (Jakob Dulisse). Industrial Salmon Farming Logging in Clayoquot Sound Battle for the Forest

Drifting Toward Disaster oncerns over logging in cluster of coastal intact (pristine) valleys, were successful in hile Clayoquot Sound is CClayoquot Sound’s spectacular undisturbed by logging or other halting the logging Open net-cage salmon farming means 6 Wknown for controversial ancient forests have sparked many development. plans, and to industrial activity in its forests, there that salmon are contained in floating high-profile court cases, protests and In the 1980s, logging giant MacMillan this date Meares is a serious sea-based threat here as blockades in the past. Over the last Bloedel’s plans to log old-growth Island remains a well. The open net-cage salmon net-pens open to the ocean. Some can 25 years more than six million forest on Meares Island in the heart of globally significant farming industry – characterized by be up to four football fields in size, and cubic metres of wood have been Clayoquot Sound caused widespread example of sea- low regulation, huge knowledge gaps, logged in Clayoquot Sound, protest. Clayoquot Sound’s First Nations level old-growth foreign ownership, and regular disease may contain over 500,000 salmon. almost all of it old-growth appealed to the courts to stop the rainforest. outbreaks – has targeted Clayoquot forest.5 logging based on their Aboriginal In the 1990s, Sound as a major expansion zone. Right now, there are 21 open- Overall, Vancouver Island has lost title and rights. The First Nations a series of These massive operations expose net salmon farms in the Clayoquot three quarters of its old-growth anti-logging the coastal environment (and wild Sound UNESCO Biosphere reserve.1 forest to logging. Although A cubic metre of wood is protests salmon) to all associated waste, The newest operation is the Plover Clayoquot Sound comprises only culminated in including effluent, feed, medication, Point Salmon Farm, operated by a eight per cent of Vancouver Island, equal in size to a telephone the famous blockades and sometimes antibiotics. They subsidiary of Norway-based industry it contains the largest area of of 1993 – where tens of also act as breeding grounds for giant Cermaq – a company that culled old-growth forest remaining on pole and 33 cubic metres thousands participated and a parasites like sea lice that thrive in the nearly a million diseased fish in 2012 in the island and the island’s largest equals a full logging truck. thousand people were arrested factory farm-like conditions, and are Clayoquot Sound alone.2, 3 Plover Point for peacefully plagued by disease or viral outbreaks was fiercely opposed by the Tla-o-qui- blockading a that may occur at any given site. For aht First Nation, but was still approved logging road these reasons and more, open-net by both the federal and provincial Vancouver leading to some of salmon farming is one of the most governments. Island Clayoquot Sound’s control of most of the logging rights S controversial industries in Canada The Wilderness Committee has y intact old-growth in Clayoquot Sound, displacing the d Strathcona Provincial Park n 7 e – opposed by many environmental called for the removal of all open- y forests. One of the multi-national logging companies and R i groups, First Nations, tourism net salmon farms from BC’s coast, ve r results of this protest making the large clearcuts that had r ive operators, and the beleaguered wild and there is no better place to R was that logging rates once stripped entire mountainsides a salmon fishing industry. start than Clayoquot Sound. The in Clayoquot Sound thing of the past. S Strathcona Provincial Park a l tc r risk this industry poses to wild salmon, h i River were eventually greatly But the fact remains that some Rae i G e C S y n re y i Lake e t k eg d t M k e M a species critical for cultural and n e reduced. of Clayoquot Sound’s amazing r e e e r k P g e y C re i C n ta t a a economic revival efforts in the region, I R W In the late 1980s old-growth forests continue to be n h l i e e ve y Hesquiaht t o

is far too great. Open-net salmon Hesquiat s r M the logging rate in chainsawed down, to the dismay e iver Point m R t l Easter Territory e farms simply do not have a place in a Creek o l Clayoquot Sound was of many who want to see these H n I Lake l Hesquiat t l healthy Clayoquot Sound. Stewardson Inle e about 29,000 logging increasingly rare forests protected. In Harbour w Kanim Cotter Cre d Inlet ek e Lake B Vancouver truck loads per year. recent times, proposals to log within Hesquiat er r elt e h v Ursus C By the mid 2000s Clayoquot Sound’s intact valleys have Hotsprings S i reek R Island Estevan Hesquiat Cove Atleo the logging rate had caused great concern. So far all of these Point First Nations of t e declined to less than logging plans have been put on hold. Trail l Ahousaht n I k r e e e r v a tenth of its former Will conflict break out again in the Clayoquot Sound i C t Flores Territory r R e e b r r p level, to 2,100 logging forests of Clayoquot Sound? A lot of Pacific Island e y H C n

o Name Pronunciation d s truck loads per year, people are working very hard to avoid

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u u Ocean k o B e 4 S e as logging managers the need for future protest. The race is Ahousaht A-hows-at l r k l C e Ahousat Catface e e l i r w C u took care to stay out of on to build an economy in Clayoquot d Witness o r Range q Hesquiaht Hesh-kwee-at e n n i e Cow B f a v o Trail i r T Clayoquot Sound’s intact Sound that will bring fair prosperity Bay T R Tla-o-qui-aht Ktla-oh-kwee-at 8 Wildside Proposed Proposed k valleys. to all the region’s communities, while e e r Trail Fandora C First Nations have conserving the area’s world-famous 0 5 10 Catface Plover qwa siin hap km Meares t Mine o gradually gained old-growth forests. Mine Lone u Point q Island yo Cone la Vargas Salmon C Zipline Proposed Mines Trail Tribal Island Farm Tla-o-qui-aht Eco Tours Hiking Trails Opitsat y Park d Mining Proposals t e e n l m Ha'uukmin Clayoquot Sound - UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve r n Territory n I A

e

o K n i Tofino f First Nations Tribal Parks Big Tree o t Tribal T o u Trail Building on Digging Up Trouble q to C'is-a-qis o qwa siin hap - "leave as it is for now" - Ha'uukmin Tribal Park y a l Park Trail C layoquot Sound is synonymous compounding environmental pressures uuya tuknis - "we take care of" - Ha'uukmin Tribal Park 4 Cwith forest conservation and the in Clayoquot Sound. Salmon Farm Tenures uuya tuknis Meares Island War in the Woods. From international The proposed copper-molybdenum Plover Point Salmon Farm Tenure Esowista Pacific Kennedy 4 celebrities to some of Canada’s mine project on Catface Mountain in First Nations Reserve Lands Lake Hands-on Conservation H w Pacific Rim y most well-known activists, many Ahousaht territory and the proposed Intact Unprotected Watersheds 4 environmentalists got their first taste Fandora gold mine project in the Existing Provincial Parks & Protected Areas Ocean National lambering over fallen logs in ancient temperate rainforest, of the movement in the early ‘90s Tranquil Valley in Tla-o-qui-aht territory Existing National Park Reserves Park Ucluelet Cstashing food in raised bear caches, and getting caught in when they stood up for Clayoquot’s hold the potential to cause serious Parks & Protected Areas - Marine Portions ReserveTerritory epic rainstorms: all in a day’s work. iconic ancient trees. damage. Volunteer trail building is a conservation strategy that has been Fast forward over 20 years and The proponent of both projects is used by the Wilderness Committee for decades – we believe much of the forest is still without Imperial Metals Corporation, a company that getting people out into spectacular wilderness areas is the most effective way to foster conservation permanent protection. And now, a behind other contentious mines in lasting environmental consequences A fragile ecosystem like and environmental responsibility. One of our favourite places to build and repair trails is the rainforest of second wave of heavy industry is North America. Mining is by nature a – and resulting costs – can be seen in Clayoquot Sound is the last Clayoquot Sound. high-impact, communities around the world that place anyone should be The Meares Island trail project is being carried out under the supervision of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation, high-risk are suffering from mining-related water considering a large industrial who have declared the island a tribal park and are actively managing it. Last year, Wilderness Committee activity. The pollution.4 mining operation. volunteer crews set out on several trips to clear trail beneath the old-growth canopy. Many people from Tofino and The trail, now nearly complete, winds through pristine old-growth stands, shore pine bogs, and gorgeous from the First Nations communities tidal shoreline – an unforgettable hike suitable for one long day or two shorter days. The trail begins at an in the region have come together to old campsite in a sheltered cove called C’is-a-qis and ends at the legendary Big Tree Boardwalk oppose both of these mine projects. Trail, a short loop which features some of the largest ancient redcedar trees in the world. Clayoquot Sound is an Tourism operators based in Tofino know that a visit to the Big Tree Boardwalk Trail is one of ecologically fragile region with Photos centre pages (clockwise from top): the must-see highlights of Clayoquot Sound. Pink salmon (Barry Kovish), Meares Island forest immense potential for sustainable (Adrian Dorst), Amanita muscaria mushrooms In past years the Wilderness Committee has worked under the guidance of Clayoquot alternative development. It is (Mark Hobson), Wolf (Mark Hobson), Trail building crew at C’is-a-qis cabin (Torrance Sound’s First Nations to help build spectacular hiking trails in the Clayoquot River Valley, and on imperative that the government of Coste), Starfish (Paul Morgan), Aerial shot of Flores Island’s wild west coast. All of these trails are part of a growing trend towards eco-tourism Clayoquot Sound (Sander Jain), Sea otter (Chris BC does not issue permits for either Cheadle), Salmon farm in Clayoquot Sound in Clayoquot Sound. of these short-sighted projects. (WC files). Tribal Parks Preserving Nature and Culture park reserve to be co-managed ancient forest that extends from with the federal government. mountaintop to shoreline. Similar tribal park proposals and By declaring these areas tribal partnerships between First Nations parks, the Nations have successfully and the BC government include protected the old-growth forest within the Stein and Elaho Valleys, and them. While preserving these wild areas in the Great Bear Rainforest. natural areas, these tribal parks are In Clayoquot Sound, Meares also integral to cultural continuation Island and Ha’uukmin (the Kennedy efforts. Additionally, the First Nations are provincial and/or River Watershed) have both been exploring ways to practice respectful ne way to protect the economy, federal governments may add official declared tribal parks. Meares Island is and environmentally sustainable Oecology, and culture of Clayoquot recognition and protected status, as well managed as a tribal park by the Tla-o- economic activities that are based on Sound is through the creation of a as providing funding for management qui-aht and Ahousaht First Nations, and traditional teachings rather than the network of new tribal parks. Tribal and community development. Ha’uukmin is managed by the Tla-o- heavy industrial model. parks have a 30-year history in Canada, One of the first tribal parks in the qui-aht. The Meares Island Tribal Park Meares Island and Ha’uukmin Tribal and they’re typically used to conserve province to follow this model was is home to trees as wide as your living Parks have pointed the way to a new an area’s natural and cultural heritage Gwaii Haanas on Haida Gwaii on room, as tall as a skyscraper, and as old conservation opportunity in Clayoquot while engaging in low-impact, BC’s north coast, which was originally as the castles of Europe. In Ha’uukmin Sound – the expansion of a tribal park sustainable economic activities.9 They declared a tribal park by the Haida Tribal Park, you’ll find thriving salmon system to encompass all of the intact are initiated by First Nations, and then Nation then designated as a national watersheds, wolves, and an untouched old-growth forests.

Photos this page (clockwise from top left): Clayoquot Solutions Enjoying Ha'uukmin Tribal Park zipline (Joe Foy), Ahousaht dancers (Mark Hobson), Clayoquot river The Way Forward valley (Paul Morgan), Orca whale (Adrian Dorst). layoquot Sound encompasses rely on it survive and thrive far into the of outstanding economic Cthe largest expanse of old-growth future, many in the region are working opportunities including tourism, forest remaining on Vancouver Island, for a solution that couples conservation commercial fisheries, sustainable and is home to 45 known endangered, and community well-being. The forestry and the management threatened, or vulnerable animal Wilderness Committee and our of protected areas, not to species.10 Its waters are teeming with partners are calling for the intact mention the array of secondary marine life such as wild salmon, which rainforest areas to be formally industries revolving around these have supported local First Nations for protected under provincial law. activities. Existing businesses in the The Wilderness Committee is thousands of years. We are also calling on both the region are already showing the way part of the Clayoquot Sound With all of this at stake, it’s clear that provincial and federal governments forward and with a little help from the Conservation Alliance – a Clayoquot Sound is no place for large to provide financing for communities provincial and federal governments, group of organizations working industrial mines and open net-cage in Clayoquot Sound, which would the communities of Clayoquot Sound to protect the intact valleys of salmon farms…and these activities be used for sustainable economic could realize their full economic and Clayoquot Sound, including: should be banned. initiatives, capacity building and for cultural potential. • Friends of Clayoquot Sound To further ensure that this ancient conservation management. • ForestEthics landscape and the communities that Clayoquot Sound has a wealth • Greenpeace • Natural Resources Defense Council • Sierra Club BC Take Action! • Wilderness Committee Please write to BC's Premier and the Leader of the Official Opposition and let Citations 1 BC Government. Finfish Aquaculture Tenures Map – Feb. them know how much you want the province to support ongoing conservation efforts 2011. http://www.al.gov.bc.ca/fisheries/cabinet/finfish_ tenures.pdf in Clayoquot Sound that aim to protect intact old-growth valleys, shut down open-net 2 CBC News. “Virus sparks quarantine on BC salmon farm”. http://www.cbc.ca/news/technology/story/2012/05/17/ salmon farms and reject mining proposals. bc-salmon-farm-quarantined-lethal-virus.html 3 Vancouver Sun. “Agency orders cull of Atlantic salmon at two farms.” http://www.canada.com/vancouversun/ news/westcoastnews/story.html?id=ca824e09-88cb- BC Premier BC Leader of the Official 4b89-9b8f-63d98f6b607f 4 Mining Watch Canada. "Troubled Water: How Mine Waste Room 156, Parliament Buildings, Opposition Dumping is Poisoning Our Oceans, Rivers and Lakes". http://www.miningwatch.ca Victoria, BC, V8V 1X4 Room 201, Parliament Buildings, 5 Friends of Clayoquot Sound. “Overview of Logging in Clayoquot Sound: 2001-2009”. http://focs.ca/wp-content/ 250-387-1715 Fax: 250-387-0087 Victoria, BC, V8V 1X4 uploads/2012/07/Clayoquot-Logging-Report-2009-w- Apr2010-update.pdf @ [email protected] 250-387-3655 Fax: 250-387-4680 6 Ibid. 7 Friends of Clayoquot Sound. “About FOCS”. http://focs.ca/ about/about-focs/ 8 See citation 5. 9 http://www.tribalparks.ca 10 Friends of Clayoquot Sound. “Unique Rainforests of Clayoquot Sound”. http://focs.ca/about/clayoquot- WildernessCommittee.org • 1-800-661-WILD (9453) sound/unique-rainforests-of-clayoquot-sound/ I want to help preserve Credits Writing: Torrance Coste, Joe Foy. Editing: Alexis Stoymenoff. Graphic Design and Layout: Sue Fox, Gil Aguilar. Clayoquot Sound Mapping: Geoff Senichenko. Wilderness Committee, Vol. 32, No.2, 2013. Yes! Canadian Mail Product Sales Agreement No. 0900567. Enclosed is: $25 $50 $100 Other $ ______Posted in Vancouver for free distribution. Printed in clip Fed. reg. charity #11929-3009-RR0001 Canada on recycled newsprint with vegetable-based inks. Press Run 30,000 © Wilderness Committee 2013. And return to the: I want to become a member! Enclosed is my annual fee for a: All rights reserved. Written material may be used without Wilderness Committee permission when credit is given. P.O. Box 2205, $59 Family Membership $35 Individual Membership Station Terminal Published by  Wilderness Committee — National Office Vancouver, BC, V6B 3W2 P.O. Box 2205, Station Terminal NAME PHONE Vancouver, BC, V6B 3W2 T: 604-683-8220 or 1-800-661-9453 F: 604-683-8229

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