Sailing Alone Around the World
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'^.Jt^iru. •] \ o r SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE1 A blue-nose ancestry with Yankee proclivities — Youthful fondness for the sea — Master of the ship Northern Light — Loss of the Aquidneck — Return home from Brazil in the canoe Liherdade — The gift of a "ship" — The re- building of the Sprat/ — Conundrums in regard to finance and calking — The launching of the Spray . 1 CHAPTER II Failure as a fisherman — A voyage around the world pro- jected — From Boston to Gloucester — Fitting out for the ocean voyage — Half of a dory for a ship's boat — The run from Gloucester to Nova Scotia — A shaking up in home waters — old . Among friends . .11 CHAPTER III Good-by to the American coast ~ Off Sable Island in a fog — In the open sea ~ The man in the moon takes an in- terest in the voyage — The first fit of loneliness — The Spray encounters La Vaguisa — A bottle of wine from the Spaniard — A bout of words with the captain of the Java — The United States cruiser Olympia spoken — Ar- rival at the Azores o . 23 CHAPTER IV Squally weather in the Azores — High living — Delirious from cheese and plums — The pilot of the Pinta — At Gibr-altar — Compliments exchanged with the British na\ y — A picnic on the Morocco shore . .37 viii CONTENTS CHAPTER V PAGE Sailing from Gibraltar with the assistance of her Majesty's tug — The Spn(i/''s course changed from the Suez Canal to Cape Horn — Chased by a Moorish pirate — A com- parison with Columbus — The Canary Islands — The Cape Verde Islands — Sea life — Arrival at Pernambuco — A bill against the Brazilian government — Preparing for the stormy weather of the cape 50 CHAPTER VI Departure from Rio de Janeiro — The Spray ashore on the sands of Uruguay — A narrow escape from shipwreck — The boy who found a sloop — The Spray floated but somewhat damaged — Courtesies from the British consul at Maldonado — A wai-m greeting at Montevideo — An excursion to Buenos Aires — Shortening the mast and bowsprit 65 CHAPTER VII Weighing anchor at Buenos Aires — An outbui'st of emo- tion at the mouth of the Plate — Submerged by a gi'eat wave — A stormy entrance to the strait — Captain Sam- blich's hapjjy gift of a bag of carpet-tacks — Off Cape Froward — Chased by Indians from Fortescue Bay — A miss-shot for "Black Pedro" — Taking in supplies of wood and water at Three Island Cove — Animal life . 79 CHAPTER VIII From Cape Pillar into the Pacific — Driven by a tempest toward Cape Horn — Captain Slocum's greatest sea ad- venture — Reaching the strait again by way of Cock- burn Channel — Some savages find the carpet-tacks — Danger from firebrands — A series of fierce wijliwaws — Again sailing westward 98 CHAPTER IX Repairing the Spray''s sails — Savages and an obstreperous anchor — A spider-fight An encounter with Black CONTENTS ix PAGE Pedro — A visit to tlie steamship Colombia — On the de- fensive against a fleet of canoes — A record of voyages through the strait — A chance cargo of tallow . 110 CHAPTER X Eunning to Port Angosto in a snow-storm — A defective sheet-rope places the Spray in peril — The Spray as a target for a Fuegian arrow — The island of Alan Erric — Again in the open Pacific — The run to the island of Juan Fernandez — An absentee king — At Robinson Crusoe's anchorage 126 CHAPTER XI The islanders of Juan Fernandez entertained with Yankee doughnuts — The beauties of Robinson Crusoe's realm — The mountain monument to Alexander Selkirk — Rob- inson Crusoe's cave — A stroll with the children of the island — Westward ho ! with a friendly gale — A month's free sailing with the Southern Cross and the sun for guides — Sighting the Marquesas — Experience in reck- oning 138 CHAPTER XII Seventy-two days without a port — Whales and birds — A peep into the Spray''s galley — Flying-fish for breakfast — A welcome at Apia — A visit from Mrs. Robert Louis Stevenson — At Vailima — Samoan hospitality — Ar- rested for fast riding — An amusing merry-go-round — Teachers and pupils of Papauta College — At the mercy of sea-nymphs 150 CHAPTER XIII Samoan royalty — King Malietoa — Good-by to friends at Vailima — Leaving Fiji to the south — Arrival at New- castle, Australia — The yachts of Sydney — A ducking on the Spray — Commodore Foy presents the sloop with a new suit of sails — On to Melbourne — A shark that proved to be valuable — A change of course — The " Rain of Blood " — In Tasmania 164 X CONTENTS CHAPTER XIV PAGE A testimonial from a lady — Cruising round Tasmania — The skipper delivers bis first lecture on the voyage — Abundant provisions — An inspection of the Spray for safety at Devonport — Again at Sydney — North- ward bound for Torres Strait — An amateiu- shipwTeek — Friends on the AustraHan coast — Perils of a coral 180 CHAPTER XV Arrival at Port Denison, Queensland — A lecture — Rem- iniscences of Captain Cook — Lecturing for charity at Cooktown — A happy escape from a coral reef — Home Island, Sunday Island, Bird Island — An American pearl-fisherman — Jubilee at Thursday Island — A new ensign for the Spray — Booby Island — Across the In- dian Ocean — Christmas Island ..... 194 CHAPTER XVI A call for careful navigation — Three hours' steering in twenty-three days — Arrival at the Keeling Cocos Is- lands —A cui'ious chapter of social history — A welcome from the children of the islands — Cleaning and painting the Spray on the beach — A Mohammedan blessing for a pot of jam — Keeling as a paradise — A risky adventure in a small boat — Away to Rodriguez — Taken for Anti- christ — The governor calms the fears of the people — A lecture — A convent in the hills ..... 210 CHAPTER XVII A clean bill of health at Mauritius — Sailing the voyage over again in the opera-house — A newly discovered plant named in honor of the Spray''s skipper — A n-ty of young ladies out for a sail — A bivouac on deck warm reception at Durban — A friendly cross-exar ^ tion by Henry M. Stanley — Three wise Boers seek ] of the flatness of the earth — Leaving South Africa CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XVIII PAGE RoTxnding the ^' Cape of Storms " in olden time — A rough Christmas — The Spray ties up for a three months' rest at Cape Town — A railway trip to the Transvaal — President Kruger's odd definition of the Spray''s voyage — His terse sayings — Distinguished guests on the Spray — Cocoanut fiber as a padlock — Courtesies from the admiral of the Queen's navy — Off for St. Helena — Land in sight 240 CHAPTER XIX In the isle of Napoleon's exile — Two lectures — A guest ui the ghost-room at Plantation House — An excursion to historic Longwood — Coft'ee in the husk, and a goat to shell it — The Spray''s ill luck with animals — A preju- dice against small dogs — A rat, the Boston spider, and -^ the cannibal cricket — Ascension Island .... 252 CHAPTER XX In the favoring current off Cape St. Roque, Brazil — All at sea regarding the Spanish-American war —• An ex- change of signals with the battle-ship Oregon — Off Drey- fus's prison on Devil's Island —Reappearance to the Spray of the north star — The light on Trinidad — A charming introduction to Grenada — Talks to friendly auditors 263 CHAPTER XXI Clearing for home — In the calm belt — A sea covered with sargasso — The jibstay parts in a gale —"Welcomed by a tornado off Fire Island —A change of plan — Arrival at Newport — End of a cruise of over forty-six thousand miles — The iS^ra?/ again at Fairhaven .... 272 " xii CONTENTS APPENDIX LINES AND SAIL-PLAN OF THE " SPRAY PAGE Her pedigree so far as known — Thje lines of the Spray — Her self-steering qualities — Sail-plan and steering-gear — An unprecedented feat — A final word of clieer to would-be navigators 283 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE The "Sprat" Frontispiece From a photograph taken in Australian waters. The "Northern Light," Captain Joshua Slocum, Bound for Liverpool, 1885 . 3 Cross-section of the "Spray" 7 " It 'll Crawl" 9 " " No DORG NOR NO CaT . 18 The Deacon's Dream . 20 Captain Slooum's Chronometer 22 "Good Evening, Sir" .... 25 He also Sent his Card .... 28 Chart of the " Spray's " Course around the World — April 24, 1895, to July 3, 1898 30 The Island of Pico 32 Chart of the " Spray's " Atlantic Voyages from Boston to Gibraltar, thence to 'The Strait of Magellan, in 1895, and finally Homeward Bound FROM THE Cape of Good Hope in 1898 o5 The Apparition at the Wheel 40 Coming to Anchor at Gibraltar . 45 The "Spray" at Anchor off Gibraltar 47 Chased by Pirates 53 xiv LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS PAGE I Suddenly Remembered that I could not Swim . 67 A Double Surprise . c . , . 70 At the Sign of the Comet 77 A -Great "Wave off the Patagoniajt Coast . 80 Entrance to the Strait of Magellan . .83 The Course of the " Spray " through the Strait OP Magellan .85 The Man who would n't Ship without another "MON AND A DoOG" 87 A FuEGiAN Girl 88 Looking West from Fortescue Bay, where the "Spray" was Chased by Indians .