Pie for Dinner
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P2JW305000-4-D00900-1--------XA THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. **** Saturday/Sunday, October 31 - November 1, 2020 | D9 EATING & DRINKING BY GABRIELLA GERSHENSON 1(10-ounce) bagfrozenpeas, thawed NMANY WAYS, this holidayseason 3tablespoons capers will be different from other holiday ½ cup finely choppedchives seasons.Wewon’t be cooking the Pie for 1cup flat-leaf parsleyleaves, same feastswewould have in years chopped past, because we won’t be gathering in 1tablespoon Dijon mustard Igroups as we have in yearspast. But we still ¾ teaspoon salt need that feeling of festivity,familiarity and Dinner togethernessthat the holidays and the foods 1. Preheatovento400 degrees. that go with them provide.Sowhat cantake 2. Makethe potato topping: Put the placeofthe turkeysand hams that feed potatoes in amedium potand add multitudes,oftables groaning with sides and a Whywait fordessert? enough cold waterjusttocover battery of baked goods? What onedish canac- These savory recipes make them. Salt waterand bring to a complish what all those othersdoinaggre- boil overhigh heat. Reduceheat gate?Myanswer: the savory pie. anymealanoccasion and any to medium and simmer until pota- Forstarters, nothing says comfort quitelike occasion so much cozier toes areverytender,20-25 min- it. Asavorypie has everything you’dnormally utes.Drain potatoes,then return find on adinner plate, but swaddled in pas- them to potalong with milk, try—or,inthe case of cottagepies,cloaked in heavy cream and butter. Mash to- equally reassuring mashed potatoes.Itmar- gether until smooth. Addegg ries asense of occasion with the all-in-one yolksand salt,and mix until well convenienceofaone-pot meal. incorporated.Set aside. As demonstrated by the world’sgreatest 3. Makethe filling: In amedium practitionersofthis branch of gastronomy, the pan overmedium heat, bring milk British, savory pies canbesimple and homey, and cream to asimmer.Dropin à la shepherd’spie,orassplashyasyou’reup cod, salmon, smoked haddock and for(see: the hand-raised pie episode of “The prawns,and poach 2minutes.The Great British Bake Off”). According to culinary seafood will look cooked on the historian Polly Russell, pies have always been outside but will be somewhatraw multitaskers. In the England of seven centu- on the inside.Drain fish, reserving ries ago, they were ameans to store, preserve poaching liquid in abowl. and transport food. Thecrust wasaninedible 4. Clean pan and add butter. Melt pastrycase called acoffin; the filling sealed it overmedium heatuntil small within would be eaten, and the pastrywould bubbles appear,then whisk in be reused or discarded. By the 17th century, flour.Reduceheattolow and cook edible pastrybecame the norm and avehicle for8minutes,whisking continu- forcooks to createelaboratedecorated pies. ously.Donot let it brown. Slowly Theworld of British savory pies is as vast whisk in half of the reserved as itshistory, and thereare plenty of varia- poaching liquid, increaseheatto tions on the spectrum between humble cot- medium-lowand cook,stirring tage pies and the over-the-top ceremonial continuously to preventany lumps pies.Those might include steamed steak and from forming, until thickened, kidney puddingsmade with suet pastry; the 10-15minutes.Add remaining steak and ale pies you’dbelikely to eat in a poaching liquid and continue pub; sturdy hand-held pasties that oncefed whisking until thick and smooth, minersand nowsustain commuters; and cold 10-15minutes more. Addpeas, ca- picnic pies with fillingsofpork and hard- RedOnion, Carrot and well to evenly coat. Roast vege- The UltimateFishPie pers,chives,parsley, mustardand boiled eggs. Hazelnut Tatin tables in middle of oven until Capersand mustardpunctuate salt,and mix well. Lightly fold in In Mr.Franklin’s book,the recipe they get soft and start to brown the saucy filling in Mr.Franklin’s drainedfish, taking care notto includes instructions formaking and caramelize, 30 minutes. Add takeonaBritish classic.Ifyou break up the pieces. your ownrough puff pastry. Here hazelnuts and roast 5 minutes can’tfind smoked haddock,other 5. Spoon fish mixtureintoa9- Savory pies can be simple and we optfor the easyroute(above): more. cold-smoked fish fillets, such as by-13-by-3-inch ovenproofdish homey, à la shepherd’s pie, or store-boughtfrozenpuff pastry. It 4. In a9-inch cast-iron pan or salmon, will work fine. and levelthe surface. Spread as splashy as you’re up for. greatly shortens the time and la- other heavy ovenproofpan, warm ActiveTime 3hours mashedpotatotopping overfish bor and worksjustbeautifully. butter, sugar and balsamic vine- TotalTime 4hours mixture, taking it righttothe ActiveTime 1hour gar overmedium heat, stirring Serves 8-12 edges of the dish, then drag the 1 TotalTime 1/2 hours constantly,until sugar dissolves. tines of afork overthe toptocre- If one chef is credited with reviving the Makes 1(9-inch) tart Bring mixturetoaboil and con- Forthe potato topping: atetexture. Scatter grated cheese craft of the British savory pie, it’s Calum tinue mixing until it has thickened 4medium large Russetpotatoes evenly overthe top. Franklin. Adjacent to Holborn Dining Room 3medium redonions enough to coat the back of the (about 3pounds), peeledand 6. Bake until sauceisbubbling up in London, where he is executive chef, Mr. 4large carrots, peeledand cut spoon, 2-3minutes more. Add quartered at the sides and the potato top- Calum opened the Pie Room in 2018. There, into1⅛-inch chunks roastedvegetables andnuts to 1cup whole milk ping has developedagolden crust, he and his staff construct the types of ornate 2tablespoons vegetable oil pan and use aspoon to toss well ½ cup heavycream 35-40minutes.Serve warm. pies you see in period dramas or Victorian ½ teaspoon salt and coat with glaze. Setaside to 4tablespoons unsalted butter, —Recipes adaptedfrom‘The Pie etchings. In his new book, “The Pie Room” ¼ cup blanchedwhole hazelnuts cool 10 minutes. cut intofour pieces Room’byCalum Franklin (BloomsburyAbsolute), Mr. Franklin pub- 1tablespoon unsalted butter 5. Unroll puff pastrycarefully.Use 2large eggyolks,beaten (BloomsburyAbsolute) lishes classic recipes as well as creations of 1tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons arolling pin, if needed,toeven ¾ teaspoon salt,plus morefor his own, such as a Thanksgiving-perfect pie extra-fine sugar out dough, then cut out a9-inch salting water filled with turkey, cranberries and stuffing, 2teaspoons balsamic vinegar round. ½ cup gratedcheddar cheese and the diabolically good, carb-on-carb mac- 1sheet store-bought all-butter 6. Bunch the vegetables together (about 2ounces) aroni and cheese pie. The red onion, carrot frozen puffpastry,defrosted in the pan, leaving a ¾-inch gap Forthe filling: and hazelnut tatin at right leans a little according to package around sides of the pan. Cover 2¼ cups whole milk French. If you use instructions vegetables with pastry, tucking it 1¼ cups heavycream store-bought puff 2tablespoons tarragon leaves, slightly under,and presslightly 10 ounces skinlesscod fillet, cut pastry, it’s remark- soaked in an icewaterbath into skillet all around the edge. into1-inch dice ably easy to make and patted dry Prick pastryall overwith afork 7ounces skinlesssalmon fillet, and still an abso- and baketart tatin until the pas- cut into1-inch dice lute stunner. 1. Preheatovento425 degrees. tryispuffed up and golden, 20 7ounces skinlesssmoked As Mr. Franklin 2. Peel onions and cut them in minutes.Use an ovenmitttore- haddock filletorother cold- put it, “In all the half through the rootssothey move pan from ovenand while smoked fish, cut into1-inch years I have been stay intact,then cut each half handling pan. Placeaflatplate dice doing it, I have through the root again into four large enough to go overtop of ⅓pound rawtiger prawns or never ever met a wedges,and again into eighths. pan and quickly flip it over, cen- other medium shrimp,peeled ! Find the recipe for British person who 3. On a baking sheet, sprinkle tering the pie on it. and cleaned this Mac ‘n’ Cheese Pie said, ‘I don’t like carrot chunks and onion wedges 7. Dresstop of tart tatin with the 4tablespoons unsalted butter CAREY at wsj.com/food. pies.’ ” with vegetable oil and salt. Toss tarragon leaves, and serve warm. ½ cup all-purpose flour JOHN SLOW FOOD FAST / SATISFYING AND SEASONAL FOOD IN ABOUT 30 MINUTES ION) AT Cabbage Stir-Fry With Rice and Scallions TR US AYEAR AGO, DonnySirisavath’sKhao Noo- turning meaty and sweet. (ILL dle Shop in Dallas washumming,garnering It’s a great way to showcase cabbage, a awardsand acclaim. He wasplanning an ex- real kitchen workhorse: affordable, avail- HOEWELER pansion. Now, that’soff.“Thankfully,we able year-round, a shelf-life all-star and hadn’t signed the lease,” he said. Yeteven versatile, too. This recipe permits a broad MICHAEL with revenue down 80% compared with this range when it comes to cooking time; stir- ; KA time last year,Mr. Sirisavath continues to fry the cabbage to your own taste. “I cook ST The Chef Donny forgeahead and find inspiration, with ex- it until it wilts,” Mr. Sirisavath said. “If CHA Sirisavath panded outdoor seating at the restaurant you want it sweeter and softer, keep cook- TRICE and anew pop-up series in the works. ing it down.” BEA His Restaurant He’sworking around the clock,with When he has moretime,hemakes this as BY Khao Noodle Shop lesstime than ever to refuel at home. part of alargerspread. These days,for quick in Dallas When he does,he’ll oftenmakethis cab- comfort, the chef serves the stir-frysimply, YLING ST bagestir-fry. A20-minute, two-step rec- over rice, with agarnish of sliced scallions. OP WhatHe’sKnown ipe,his final SlowFood Fast contribution Either way,itbringshim comfort. “I always PR For Thai and Lao is also deeply satisfying,with layers of atethis as akid when Iwas sick and needed ANG, street food and umami flavor thanks to leeks,oystersauce to feel better. Mom would serveitwith a HO noodle dishes and soysauce. As the succulent cabbage pickled egg, greens and riceporridge,” he TYNA inspired by the leavescook,they caramelizeinthe pan, said.