XX. No. 5. 25 CENTS A COPY NOVEMBER, 1920. 76e MID-PACIFIC MAGAZINE officid otOn ofthe P ACIFIC '66 UNION

ED STATES AUSTRALASIA HAWAII ORIENT TAVA 14 Hi .b.10 dr 1 fit 4.

CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD Volume XX. No. 5.

CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER, 1920.

Our Art Section—Pacific Sports 401 ,Native Games of Latin South America - - - - 417 By Franklin Adams of the "Pan American Union" Staff Among the Alaskan Tlinkats 421 By G. E. Kastengren The Australian Coral Isles 427 By Frank Reid of "The Lone Hand Staff" A Missionary Hike in Kauai 431 By J. M. Lydgate The World's Wonderland - - - 435 By C. W. McMurran Something About Japanese Painting - - - - 439 By H. P. Bowie of "The Tourist" Staff The Java Uplands - - - - - - 443 By H. A. Doering Hawaii's Great Opportunity - - - 447 By Riley H. Allen Athletes in China's Army - 451 By Rodney Gilbert Singapore in Story - - - - 455 By S. S. Beet Mountain Tramping in Hawaii - 477 By Lorrin A. Thurston The Filipinos as Scientists 463 By Member of "Far Eastern Review's" Editorial Staff The Great Volcano on Tanna 469 By Emma H. Adams The Climate of Hawaii- - 473 By Lawrence Hite Daingerfield Early Recollections of San Francisco - 459 By Raphael Weill Bulletin of the Pan Pacific Union - - - 481 New Series No. 13

alp n: ih-Parifir Magazine Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.50 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.75. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.

Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine.

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In Australasia tramping the mountain tracks or trails is one of the great sports and recreations 01 the people; there are moun- tains to climb and scenery to enjoy second to none in the world. One great sport of the visitor to New Zealand is the descent of the -Wanganui river. This is probably the most beautiful stream in the world, widely picturesque from end to end. Cricket long ago became the one sport of the natives of Samoa. Whole villages would turn out to the games that would last all day long and on which entire coconut crops would be wagered. Horse racing is the Australian sport, and at Melbourne annually is run the race for the Caufteld cup, on the result of which all Australia bets. In South America the Indians have a game of ball all of their own. Two, balls are used; tail feathers of birds are affixed for accuracy in throwing. The Indians become wonderfully expert at ball playing. Edited by Alexander Hume Ford. 1110-Parifir fliagazitir Official Organ of the Pan-Pacific Union.

Volume XX. NOVEMBER, 1920. Number 5.

Gathering for a game of Topeo.

Native Games of Latin South America (By Franklin Adams, of the Pan-American Union.)

HE ball game is indigenous to the ball courts were disclosed near the most Americas. Perhaps the first sacred temples, and, from the elaborate T simian inhabitants found true hieroglyphics and pictographs ornament- sport in catching the cocoanuts tossed ing the walls, much was learned of the from the tall palms—certain it is that -complicated character of the sport. Cen- several thousand years ago the ball game turies after the passing of these ancient had reached a high state of development Mayans, came the first Spanish explorers in the 70 cities scattered through Yuca- who found that a younger race in con- tan. On clearing away the matted for- tiguous territory, the Aztecs, had re- ests enveloping these marvelous ruins, vived the old pastime into a "national 417 418 THE MID-PACIFIC game," with the stone "God of Sport" called off on account of the rain. As beaming on every court. their sunset hour is the same through- The peculiarity of these early games out the year, the concluding moment of was that the ball, when in play, was the play is fixed by the last peep of not thrown with the hand but struck by the sun. the hip, around which the player wore At the other end of the South Ameri- a protecting pad of leather. At each can continent, fully 5,000 miles from end of the court was a great stone disk where Oviedo saw his first ball game, with a hole in the center, and through we find the indigenous sport still pop- this orifice the ball was driven before ular. Beyond the zone of the rubber a point was score. Very naturally , a trees, the wooden ball makes its appear- "lively ball" was. used, since rubber trees ance, and a wooden club is provided for dominated the forests. driving it. The Indians who play ball Old chroniclers marvel at the skill at 42 degrees S. are the Araucanians of and endurance of the players, for a Southern Chile, those unconquerable game was seldom won under four hours people who forced the Spaniards to sue of constant play. Such exhausting con- for peace. In a clearing, 300 by 75 tests, with a dozen participants in al- yards, inclosed by cut branches of trees, most constant action, were not for ama- these sturdy Indians still play the game teurs but professionals. Thus, from of their forefathers—chueca, which the Aztec word olli, signifying "ball," greatly resembles la crosse or field came the word mollonqui, "one who hockey. The opposing teams of 15 plays ball for a living." probably give the record exhibition of A similar game has been played ball driving, unless we concede the palm through the ages over a wide range of to their ancestors, who had more leisure territory. Oviedo witnessed and de- to devote to the game. The Arauca- scribed the sport as played by Indians nians of today are as proud of their in the West Indies over four centuries prowess with chueca as their forebears ago, and Dr. Koch-Grunberg, who re- were of resisting the Spaniards with cently returned from a two-years' so- primitive weapons. Chueca is played journ among the tribes of the Cuduiary from childhood, and the matches draw River in the wilds of Brazil, found the large audiences. The game calls for natives in every village playing ball. great endurance and while generally Dr. Grunberg writes that a carefully played in two and three hour periods, leveled field lies in front of the malokas. morning and afternoon, several days or large communal houses, and daily, at have been known to pass before a de- 5 o'clock, the men returning from the cision has been reached. During a match day's fishing or hunting, indulge in the it is not unusual to hear a player cry, sport—not a complicated game like that "Am I not a real oak tree?" or "Am I of the early Mexicans, but one calling not a lion's leg?" after a brilliant stroke. for a high degree of skill, as two balls In the old days the game was played not are used by the Cuduiary players, who only for amusement, but also as a train- drive them with the hands toward their ing for war. In battle a much heavier opponents. Yellow tail feathers of the club was used, the deadly maza arau- Yapoo bird are affixed to the rubber cania, which when wielded by powerful balls for accuracy. The players have warriors gave just reason for fear. remarkable muscular development and This• virile Chilean tribe has another never forsake the game unless it is popular game called pilma also descend- THE MID-PACIFIC 419

ed from prehistoric times. Pilma pre- as well as in North America, we know pared the ancient warriors to avoid the that it had disappeared from the West- arrows and spears of the enemies. Two ern Hemisphere before the Andes rose opponents stand 12 feet apart. One has from the sea; and that the singletoed a light fiber ball which is struck with horse was introduced by the Spaniards. the hand as it drops from the hips in Before the Europeans came, the sons of an attempt to hit the naked body of the the Argentine pampas lived a much opponent who endeavors to avoid the more athletic existence. Their raids on ball by dodging, leaping into the air, the early settlers released horses to or falling to the ground. After five roam the plains where they multiplied balls, positions are reversed. The one rapidly. This wild stock became com- securing the first 20 hits is the winner. mon property of the Indian or the white Spectators, surrounding the contestants, man, whoever had the ability to catch return the ball to the server, showing and tame them, and this was the germ great appreciation of skillful play. of an indigenous sport soon to be de- On the high Andean plateau, stretch; veloped, one that is now popular with ing almost the entire length of the con- the gaucho, cowboy of the pampas. tinent, the only game which seems to Proballly the Indians first lassoed have survived through the centuries is wild young colts with bolas, which con- "endurance dancing." In the little In- sist of two or three rawhide-covered dian villages on the roof of the western balls with connecting ropes of hide. world these dancing exercises, during These are swung around the head and the festival period, have been known to then whirled, entangling the quarry's last the greater portion of three days legs and tripping the animal to the and nights. The fortitude of these high- ground. The primitive Indians also used landers is marvelous. the two-balled bola dexterously in pur- In the old days Incan tribes, and those suit of the rhea, the South American os- whom they subjugated, developed long- trich, but the coming of the horse gave distance running to a point far beyond them an added advantage in the race that reached by modern achievement. I which then became not only one for believe that when the athletic clubs of sustenance but a sport as well. The Eu- the Peruvian coast recruit their runners ropean soon learned to handle the bolas from youthful capiris of the Andes they almost as well- as the Indian, and when will win the long-distance running a new horse was needed it was only nec- prizes of the world. I have had Indian essary to pursue a wild band and trip guides, three miles above sea level, in one over. Peru, who have trotted ahead of my The gaucho learns to ride almost as horses from dawn till midnight, with soon as he can walk, and as a mere lad only an occasional rest, seeming as fresh races over the country, falling off his at the finish as at the start. In Andean horse, tumbling purposely into rabbit games and sports, however, running burrows, and practicing the most diffi- does not play an important part. It is cult feats of horsemanship. He soon too often the work of each day. takes to breaking wild colts, where In .many parts of the Americas there death is the penalty of failing strength remains today some thriving indigenous or courage. Nowadays the gauchos are sport in which horses play a prominent ranch employees, following the dictates part. Although remains of the prehis- of their employers rather than their toric horse have been found in South own sweet will. They love to sit around 420 THE MID-PACIFIC the campfire at night, telling stories of topeo match is equally exciting for the the good old days when a gaucho fes- riders, horses, and spectators. tival had the Indian game of bolas for In Paraguay tilting at a small ring its principal sport, when • a horseman suspended from poles and a crossbar in dashed in front of his mounted oppo- the village street is a popular sport, nent, bringing him to earth by dexter- known as ,sortija, a national game for ous ensnaring of the horse's legs. There centuries. In the interior of Venezuela was enough danger in this sport to thrill and Colombia toro coleado is a feature even a gaucho's adventurous heart, but of fiesta days. A principal street of it was hard.on horseflesh. Even today, the town is roped off and a wild bull is when the mayordomo, or superinten- liberated. From 8 to 10 mounted horse- dent of the estancia, is not looking, the men enter the improvised arena, their gauchos are at it again, bolas whirling, only defense against attacks of the bull horses and horsemen rolling in the dust. being their superb horsemanship and a In the mounted tug of war, the chinch- knowledge of how to twist the bull's ando, the horse also plays the star role, tail in such a manner as to cause him a rope fastened securely to the cinch. to tumble over. While the attention of Across the snowy Andes, in the smil- the bull is attracted by some of the ing valleys of Chile, they play the uni- party, a horseman dashed from the rear que game of topeo. In front of the at full speed, gives g. dexterous twist, farmhouses, under the shade of the and over rolls the bull. This sport is mighty trees, are large, solidly built not without its danger, and almost every uprights with crossbars which serve as coleado festival adds to the hospital list. hitching posts, but which play a much The honor of being champion bull-tail more important role in topeo. Here the twister develops keen competition, for horsemen pair by lot and line up in the winner is crowned with flowers by front of the bar. One of the riders the prettiest girl in the village. Some presses his horse's head forward against performers become so expert as to b ' the bar, crossing and imprisoning the sure of their twist at a specified point, head of his opponent's horse. At the the great achievement being to bring referee's call the game is on, and the the animal to the dust just in front of rider of the caught horse endeavors to the balcony of one's ladylove. free him. The horses are as highly Thus we see that indigenous sports trained as our polo ponies, and when have survived in a few isolated spots matched with skillful riders a single throughout a wide New World territory. struggle may last an hour. In the pre- The modern youth of Latin-America liminaries a dozen such contests are sim- shows a decided fondness and aptitude ultaneous, with short rests between con- tests, and a day is often consumed in for transplanted sports—but that is an- determining the final victor. A good other story. ttp=affi r

Among the Alaskan Tlinkats

By G. E. KASTENGREN. Ars...m F all the interesting peOples in- was "Indian." It is true there is con- habiting the margins of the Pa- siderable variation in their facial char- 0 cific Ocean there are probably acteristics,, but the same holds good none about whose origin so little is with the Japanese or any other peoples. really known as the Tlinkat people of As a race they are of greater stature South Eastern Alaska. Colloquially than the Japanese, but their eyes, hair they are called "Indians," but there is and color is similar. Linguistically very little to connect them with the they stand absolutely alone except for ordinary American Indian. As long such taint as the neighboring tribes of as the white man has known them they the Tsimpsians and the Haidas have have inhabited the coastal region of been mutually responsible for. Their South-eastern Alaska. Whence they language is extremely harsh and gut- came neither they themselves nor the tural ; and it has been said that the best learned men from the Smithsonian In- way to learn to speak it, is to keep the stitution, nor any other students have mouth shut. This, sounds like hyper- been able to shed much light on. Their bole, but it is almost literally true. They traditions have it that they came from have a considerable number of elemen- the region of Nass River in British tary sounds not found in any other lan- Columbia, which stream enters Portland guage, and for that reason the very Canal on North latitude 55°. A super- name of the tribe is seldom written the ficial study of the race would seem to same way by two different authors. dispose of that locality as anything but Hlingit, Thlingit, Tlinkat, etc., are var- a temporary place of abode some gen- iations. It may be of interest to know erations back. that "cats" becomes "doozhg," and Where the anthropologist would "dogs" are "catlg" in the Tlinkat lan- place them I cannot say, but were you guage. The final "g" makes the to meet a Japanese and a Tlinkat sim- plural. ilarly dressed it is probable that you Their fairly pronounced 'Mongolian would be unable to tell which of them cast of features may, or may not, have 421 422 THE MID-PACIFIC any connection with the following fact any means. By his lack of omnipotence which however may be indicative of he was even subjected to various in- possibilities. In the old Pioneer Mu- dignities and was at times made ridi- seum in San Francisco, when it was culous. This will be taken up sep- housed on Seventh Street, there were arately in the legends of the Tlinkats. three or four heavy links of a bronze The social structure of the tribe is anchor chain in which were cast Chin- very interesting. Woman held a high ese characters. This was recovered and honorable place in the tribe and from the bottom of Sitka Harbor many was not barred from being chief by rea- years ago, but there is no tradition of son of her sex. As is usual the father any visits from these strangers from of the family had to do the hunting Asia as far as I have been able to and fishing while the wife, or wives, ascertain. It opens up possibilities for prepared the food and did much other conjectures, but the stumbling block of work in preparing the skins for gar- the language of the Tlinkats spoils the ments. But the father had no au- otherwise pretty web of speculation. thority over his children, at least the Professor Swanton of the Smithson- boys after they were twelve years old. ian Institution, and Lieut. Emmons of At that age they were sent to their the U. S. Navy, the two most ardent maternal uncle for education and train- students of the Alaska Indians, have ing in the arts of the chase and the no pronounced views as to where this manufacture of the implements thereof. people came from. At apy rate the There was nothing slipshod in the theory that they came from the inter- handiwork of the Tlinkats. It is true ior of British Columbia is untenable, they learned wood carving from the and yet they have undoubtedly been Haidas, but their style became different there before they came to Southeastern from that of their teachers inasmuch Alaska unless this is their second ad- as their figures were carved in higher vent there. Their only "written" his- relief. Their halibut hooks were often tory is their totem poles, and the "Na- carved with mystic figures that en- xin," • or Chilkat blanket. The latter sured larger catches. Their canoes al- is of greater antiquity, probably, than most invariably had the prow or stem the totems, but both are plainly heral- ornamented with carved figures. In dic and do not serve to throw much basket work and some forms of weav- light on the origin of the Tlinkats, es- ing their art expressed much more than pecially as the latter learned the art is visible to the casual observer. Every of weaving from the Tsimpsians, and detail of every figure means something, that of carving from the Haidas, both and is always symbolic of something close neighbors of the Tlinkats. that has struck deep roots in their Like all primitive peoples their lives. But it is in their totems where mythology and the story of the origin the greatest expression is found, if you of things is based on what they did know where to look for it. The to- not understond or could not explain. tem is really a genealogical tree, and if The Creator is not invested with the you know how to interpret the grotes- omnipotence commonly considered as an que figures you can trace the alliances essential attribute of Deity. In fact, between the various clans of the tribe. the Raven, regarded as the Creator, What may be called the basic figure had decided limitations, and does not of a clan may be an eagle, wolf, or appear to have created all things, by some mythical being created entirely by THE MID -PACIFIC 423

their imagination very much like Don Their great canoes, were hollowed out Quixote made giants out of the wind from a single spruce log, and they are mills. The "One Legged Fisherman" often both speedy and graceful. Both is one of these heraldic figures which men and women are adepts in the art may well have been created from such of paddling, as the writer can testify material as a heron standing on one from personal experience on a trip with leg on a tide flat. a Tlinkat family outside of Lynn Canal Of all the mythical beings in their in very stormy weather. Their homes rather large collection there are prob- were made of logs, but their shelters ably none that have exercised as pro- when on a hunting or fishing expedi- found influence on their daily lives as tion away from the village were often the "Koosh-Ta-Ka." They were prac- rude shelters of sticks and bark. To- tically a counterpart of the trolls of day they often have fairly pretentious the Scandinanvian folk lore, but unlike houses, but their surroundings are not the latter they exercised only a malign too tidy. Yet it is not a rare thing influence. Very few things went wrong to see a few flowers around the house. with the Tlinkats for which the Koosh- The schools have taught the younger Ta-Ka were not blamed. They had generation the value of a vegetable and • the power to abduct and entice peo- flower garden, as well as some rudi- ple into their mountain fastnesses mentary hygiene. However, the ideas where they were held captives forever, of the Tlinkat run more to utility than mostly, though now and then one would ornamentation when you consider him escape their baneful influence. They c a tiller of the soil. South-easterr were what may be called fourth dim- Alaska does not offer large tracts of ension beings because they, and their tillable soil, and gardens are often won captives, could penetrate into the rocks by hard labor from the bog and forest. and cliffs. The mountains are high and precipi- The severe training to which their tous, clad with spruce and an almost maternal uncle subjected them when he infinite variety of shrubs bearing lus- received his nephews for training made cious berries in great abundance. It is them a hardy 'race. The waters of one of the most majestic stretches of Alaska are very cold, but the boys had bold scenery in the world. Yet the to take their swims regularly in the somber forest does not seem to have icy sea. Before their contact with the had a depressing effect on the Tlinkat, white man, from whom they received for he is of a fairly sunny disposition fire arms and metallic implements, they and not as dour and silent as the In- had only the ordinary tools of the sav- dians of the plains. He is quite honest, age somewhat reinforced by native cop- for next after witchcraft, theft was the per which was fairly abundant, and, worst crime on the calendar. Homi- therefor it took both courage, skill and cide was atoned for by slaying the slay- strength, to enter into combat with sea er, but he could buy immunity by pay- lions and bears. Most of their food ing with blankets to the dead man's was obtained from the sea, and salmon family. As witchcraft is gradually was abundant enough in season to al- fading away under the influence of most choke the streams. Halibut of education, theft becomes the capital immense size was plentiful at their crime. The writer knows of only one very front door, and the forest teemed instance where theft became anything with game. like habitual or common. It was in 424 THE MID-PACIFIC a certain salmon , cannery where the extensive trips, and which they use store-keeper complained of shop-lifting for hunting and fishing expeditions. when there was a crowd in the com- In the autumn when the cannery pany store, but any casual observer crews are paid off the local merchant, would readily lay the blame to the who is often a keen half breed, is fully harsh and manifestly unjust treatment prepared to fill the wants of anybody of the Tlinkat laborers. who has the cash. The native taste for A curious sidelight is thrown on color takes on added energy, and some their modern attitude towards homicide. of the silk petticoats and millinery are The Shakes clan, who claim as their quite audible. The roof may be leak- totem the grizzly bear as well as the ing badly, and the front yard may not mountain goat, have for their chief be spick and span, but the spending Moses Shakes, a genial old gentleman orgy must run its course. Sitka went of about fifty five years of age. One "dry" under local option before the of his sons was murdered about 1913 rest of the territory. While it was on the Stikins River, and the assassin against the law to sell liquor to a na- tive there were enough of renegade was not discovered. I asked him if he thought it was a white man or a whites who were willing to take a Tlinkat who was guilty of the deed. chance for profit, but the practical ef- . good He replied that it was not a white man, fect of the local prohibition was and while he had fairly well grounded and was summed up by an influential suspicions as to who had done it he native in this manner : "When Sitka did not feel justified in going on the wet lots natives buy hootch, get drunk, war path. White marble abounds in spend all money, winter bum tea and the mountains around Wrangell, where toast, no good. Now you see fine the chief has his home, and from that launches, natives sober and rich." he carved a fairly well executed memo- In the autumn of 1914, with the war rial totem or grave stone on which the raging, the fur market went to pieces following inscription appears : so badly as to cause some suffering among those who trapped for a living "In memory of my son, George during the winter. Finely matched Shakes, who was murdered in June. mink skins went begging at from a dol- 1913. The chief being a Christian de- lar and a half to two dollars. An ex- cide not go on war path but he lives ceptionally large otter skin was offered to pruve the guilty party." in. Haines for six dollars. It is prob- How thick the veneer of civilization able that the present high prices for or Christianity is on the chief can only furs has been reflected to the Tlinkat be conjectured. trapper. The half breed store keeper Most of the Tlinkat clans are quite is a keen fellow in business. He will prosperous and all are self supporting. leave the store in charge of his family In Sitka, the old Alaskan capital, is and start for the wilderness with trade quite a native village along the shore. goods and intercept the trapper be- Highways are practically lacking, but fore he arrives in the town, and he if there was any probability of using au- gets the first pick from the pelt pack. tomobiles most of the Tlinkats would As a considerable part of the deal is surely possess one. As a substitute for after this Armenian of the north, will automobiles they are owners of rather reap a profit both ways. fine motor boats on which they go on The Tlinkats are skilled wood work- THE MiD-PACIFIC 425 ers and boat builders. The old style While there has been fierce inter- dugout canoe is fast giving way to necine strife in past they have gen- the modern type of boat. There are erally been able to patch up their quar- some sectarian schools doing good work rels without much blood shed. Many in diverting the native from his old of their battles were caused by wife unsanitary way of living, and in these stealing but when inanimate property secondary schools the boys are taught was in controversy some very unique the common handicrafts that will be of methods were used. The Wolf clan use to them while the girls are taught owed a debt to the Eagle clan which domestic science and other useful arts. they, for some reason, refused to pay. These schools are not as large as the As there was no tribal court to which Kamehameha schools in Honolulu, but the matter could be referred, and as they are conducted along similar lines. they did not consider it worth while to In the government schools gardening go on the warpath, they instead carved is one of the arts in which instruction the totem of the Wolf clan and placed is given. it on the ground, thereby indicating It may not be commonly known that how they had fallen when they would in Alaska are grown the finest vege- not - pay an honest debt. This Wolf tables in the world. This applies par- totem lies on the ground in front of ticularly to roots such as turnips, ruta- an old house in a lumber yard in bagas, and potatoes ; but cabbages of Wrangell, and at the foot of the Kad- thirty-four pounds weight are not un- ashan totem poles and is badly de- common. Rhubarb grows to great cayed. size and is almost entirely free from As has been said before, the to- fiber. In all of California I have not tem poles form a genealogical tree. seen as fine California poppies as in Distinction and aristocracy could not Skagway, and the same is true of be conferred by the chief on sweet peas. Professor C. C. George- anyone. Personal prowess in battle son, the Father of Alaskan agriculture or in the .chase, or the occurrence of just informed me that he has grown some mystic happening in the family sugar beets containing 21.4 per cent of sugar. This is undoubtedly the worlds were the only paths to distinction. The record. With such soil opportunities mysterious appealed more strongly to it is but natural that the educational the Tlinkat than did mere possession institutions should make a particular ef- of blankets and other material wealth. fort to train the young natives for agri- For this reason there is a large abun- cultural pursuits, thereby giving them dance of legendary lore to be found economic independence as well as a more varied diet, and to ward against among them if you choose to hunt for possibilities of famine. it systematically and sympathetically. 426 THE MID-PACIFIC

44,

Ihere are forests of tree ferns in Australia like those of New Zealand and Hawaii; men seem dwarfed when standing by these giant ferns. The Australian Coral Isles (By Frank Reid of The Lone Hand Staff.)

SvC

N the waters within the Great Bar- of long lianas. All along, the shores rier Reef which fringes the Queens- are awave with tall palms, and on the I land coast are little green worlds, grey barrier reef, the blue sea is hundreds of them, and many are in- awash with white breakers. habited by joyous people, who do not There within the Barrier Reef lies care whether there exists an outside Whitsunday Island. It was a grey world or other people, as innocent of morning, threatening rain, when we curiosity as to what happens in Sydney first landed on the shores of this out- or Melbourne as the folks of Vesta and of- the-way isle, and when we dragged Ceres are careless of the mightier our limp bodies into upright positions politics of their planetary neighbors, and looked around hopefully we selected Mars and Jupiter. a long strip of open beach for a land- The little world may be a ring of ing place. To our left the beach broken corals like a pile of scrap iron, curved sharply and its shores were fringed with tall feathery palms, fringed with a ring of trees. The around a blue lagoon, into which scene reminded me of that poetical ut- breaks the endless white surf of the terance about the "garland of green in tropics ; or it may be the sharp crest an ocean of blue." The water below of some uplifted mountain over a flaw our boat was wonderfully clear, and in the earth's crust. If our island is we could see the corals below branching a mountain-top, it will be velvet-car- in every direction, and of all colours peted to the summit with wide-leaved and shapes like a fairy forest. Between evergreen trees, intertangled with the corals, fish of every 'colour were palms and tree ferns, and all inextric- swimming, some of them of gold, and ably tied together with the mesh-work some were bright blue or striped in 427 428 THE MID-PACIFIC

various colours. Parrot fish—big, so far away from the mainland, and handsome creatures of a vivid grass for what purpose? It could not have green, patched with blue dodged in and been trepang fishermen or visitors from out amongst the sea weed, and where the mainland, or we would have traces there happened to be a small patch of of their occupation in the shape of white sand, trepang, or beche-de-mer, empty tins, books or newspapers. The as it is more commonly termed, lay problem was solved by one of our party scattered around. who had wandered further along the Landing on shore we found the beach beach and had found concealed under a covered with vegetation, which is so pile of shrubbery at the mouth of a nar- common on most of these islands. Pine row creek a large whaleboat. Then . it and candle-nut trees grew everywhere, flashed across my memory that about and amongst the former grew many two years previously three convict es- capees from New Caledonia had reached beautiful shrubs, some of them bearing Whitsunday Island, where they had yellow flowers with dark red centres, concealed themselves for a time, and and others being deep crimson, like had constructed a rude craft out of some splashes amongst the leaves. One plant old wreckage. In this boat they again had beautiful white flowers, which gave put to sea, and eventually reached the out a most powerful scent and above mainland, where they were arrested. this butterflies floated in great num- They had abandoned their stolen whale- bers. However, at this moment we boat, fearing that if they reached the were not interested in the plant life on mainland in it the boat would be recog- the island. What we required more nized by the police who at the time than anything else was fresh water, the were always on the look-out for es- supply which we carried being very capees from the French convict settle- low, and slightly brackish. Walking ment in the South Seas. along the beach for about a mile we Food had not troubled the convicts came across a deserted but in an open on this out-of-the-way isle, for there space about 50 yards from the beach, still remained portions of a fish trap at and surrounded by palm trees. Scat- the mouth of the creek, and this had tered around was much wreckage, been constructed somewhat after the which must have been carried some manner of the traps made by aborigi- considerable distance, as we had seen nals out of twigs and brambles. Crabs no signs of a wreck on the beach. Part and shellfish were plentiful, as were the of the but had been constructed from gulls' eggs. Possessed of matches this wreckage, and within were two when they reached the mainland they bunks which had evidently been part must have kept a fire burning contin. of a schooner's cabin furniture in the uously. past. Probably the boat had been Further around the beach a large blown on the Barrier Reef during a white rock, high above the waterline storm, and had afterwards drifted to had the initials, "A. S." and 1855 cut in this island. After examining the it. A short distance to the rear of this wreckage and the hut, we were satis- rock we came upon the well where the fied that the latter had been erected convicts had obtained their water. It many years after the schooner had was merely a roughly dug hole in the , found a last resting-place on the shores sand, into which two casks had been of this island. Who had built this but placed, one on top of the other. THE MID-PACIFIC 429

It is on the coral reefs which sur- coral lagoons generally caution visitors round Whitsunday Island that the reef- to keep a safe distance from the jelly- comber—if he be a nature student—is fish when bathing in island waters in at home. Within these reefs are count- case they come in contact with the spe- less lagoons, some shallow, and others cies known as the Portuguese man-of- with an apparent depth of 50 or more war. Some years back two boys died fathoms. Their appearance is most ex- in one week near this island after be- traordinary and beautiful, the water ing stung by this creature. from the absence of debris of streams In bygone days when aboriginals in- exhibits so surprising a transparency habited Whitsunday Island, they could that an object the size of a man's hand be persuaded to dive into the shallow may in calm weather be distinctly seen waters of these lagoons and procure at a depth of 10 fathoms. The aspect choice specimens of coral, but as such at the bottom is that of a wilderness of places are infested with the ferocious marine vegetation of the most wonder- tiger shark the natives do not relish ful forms and gorgeous colours, seem- the task. Eight years back I watched ing in some places to be spread over two Borneo natives, employed on a the surface of sloping hills in others to trading schooner, diving for coral in be growing out from the sides of tall these waters, and they proved them- pillars or towers, pierced with vast selves far ahead of the aboriginals at caves, in which the refracted beams of both diving and swimming. Sponge the sunshine cause the waters to glow can be seen growing in places which the with the colors of the opal. Between tide leaves dry, but its congenial abode the huge caverned masses are wide is in sheltered and tranquil spots, such spaces floored with sand, perfectly as fissures of rocks where the water, level, and white as snow, upon which never ruffled by the storm is deeply, the tall green mounds, covered with darkly beautifully blue. The sponge coral trees; throw fantastic shadows, so found in these lagoons is of a very com- that in leaning over the sides of a small mon variety, and I question if it would boat and contemplating these so re- be of use for domestic purposes. markable appearances one cannot help The lagoons are also the home of the being reminded of the fabled grove of clam shell, which is generally used for Aladdin. Amongst all this are to be decorative purposes in the gardens of seen multitudes of fishes of the most suburban homes. They constitute a for- extraordinary shapes and hues, gold midable source of danger to visitors and purple, violet and scarlet, jet black, who are unacquainted with the reefs and mottled, and every shade of green. In wade in shallow pools. A foot inad- some of the enclosed lagoons most of vertently inserted betwixt the gaping the fish at times are poisonous, the rea- valves of a large clam is held with a son of which is unknown. grip as firm and unyielding as that of Here the reefcomber may see jellyfish the strongest steel mantrap, and unless of every hue and size. I have often the assistance of a comrade with an axe watched little fishes, alarmed by the or crowbar is at hand, the victim stands sight of an enemy, rush under these jel- little or no chance of escaping a watery. ly-fish, remain there until the danger grave. Should such misadventure be- was past, and then emerge again to fall the visitor when wading, death ap- sport and play about their sheltering proaches slowly with the rising tide. friend. Those who are• acquainted with Several instances of loss of life among 430 THE M1D-PACIFIC

the native beche-de-mer fishermen on replied, "I been paddle all the time, the Barrier Reef through the direct while Mary been bailum out water." agency of these colossal shellfish have Whitsunday Island is now practically been reported to the writer. Under the deserted, but occasionally a few men, title of "Gigantic Cockles," these clams with difficulty, procure shipments of were first recorded by Captain Cook, rough pine for a Townsville sawmill. who attests to their excellent edible There are still millions of feet of pine properties. Where, however, so many standing, but it will be impossible to shellfish abound, of more tender and remove it unless some expensive means delicate substance and flavor, these co- can be found to haul it down the moun- lossal bivalves are, except by the ab- tain side. originals held in very little account. No man can tell you the joys of wan- The aboriginals who inhabited this dering on these coral reefs at low tide. island were past masters in the art of The high mountain in the centre of the handling canoes. When the cyclone island reflects downwards across the "Leonta" struck the North Queensland shimmering water, and the dark, silent coast, and caused considerable damage trees back up on the mainland—a set- to Bowen and Townsville, a male and ting worth the play, a part of the out- female aboriginal were camped on door magic that goes with reefcombing Gloucester Island. Just before the cy- in these waters, and make your red clone arose they set out in a small bark blood redder, your years roll back, and canoe towards the township on the conjures youth from the greyness of the mainland (Bowed). The distance was past. There is an ancient proverb cur- about 18 miles. The two aboriginals rent in the South Seas : "If you cannot successfully crossed this stretch of wa- account for the milk in the cocoanut, ter in their canoe despite the fact that do not hesitate to make free use of it." the cyclone raged around them during If you cannot account for everything the trip. No small boat handled by white men could have braved such a you see when you go reefcombing on sea. I questioned the male aboriginal the isles within the Great Barrier Reef, next morning regarding his experiences do not hesitate to keep on reef-combing in the cyclone. "Oh it was easy," he just the same. A Missionary Hike in Kauai

By J. M. LYDGATE.

NE marvels at the rugged virility them, but by the more direct trail over and endurance of the early mis- the mountains. O sionaries in Hawaii, especially on They set out from Waimea, in the the Island of Kauai. With no means early morning. Hiram Bingham and of conveyance no horses, and no roads, Samuel Whitney, and son of Chamber- they made really remarkable trips about lain, as guide. Of course they went the Islands and seemed to think noth- afoot—there was no other way. They ing of it. got up into the forest belt, evidently One of these trips calling for special in the region of Kokee, about noon endurance, and of special interest was when a heavy thunder storm overtook that from Waimea to Wainiha over them, and they were compelled to seek the mountain. (On the Island of shelter in a deserted but built by the Kauai.) sandal-wood cutters, who had been re- It was on the memorable occasion cently operating there. when Liholiho and his court were the About the middle of the afternoon the guests of Kaumualii, that the royal rain held up a little, and they ventured parties made a tour of the island go- forth. But to their surprise and dis- ing round by road in the ordinary way, appointment the rain again fell in tor- leisurely, and taking a month or more rents. Of course everything they for the trip. . touched ran rivers, the trail was slip- Things being very quiet in Waimea, pery and muddy, they slipped and the missionaries concluded to follow stumbled and fell at every other step ; 431 432 THE MID-PACIFI the New England umbrellas they car- Down this awful pali they scram- ried were useless, night was coming bled hanging on precariously by roots on, and it was a cheerless outlook of trees and shrubs, and crags of ahead of them. When they were at rocks, the guide showing them just their wits end to know what to do where to put their feet at every step. they ran across a couple of abandoned It took them three hours to make sandal-wood cutters shacks on the bank the descent to Mauna-hina, where there of a mountain torrent, probably Ka- was a little hamlet, and they were wai-koi. pretty well done out, as well as fam- Into these they crept thankful for ished with hunger. They threw them- even this imperfect shelter. With selves down on the mats in a friendly some dry bits of wood torn from the house, and gladly accepted the kindly huts they finally got a fire started, by attentions of the simple natives, who means of which they partially dried were overcome with astonishment at their clothes, and warmed themselves the hardiness and nimbleness of their so that sleep was possible. The rain visitors. "Mama maoli oukou !" The cleared off and the stars came out most grateful thing they received at clear and sparkling; but the night was the hands of their hosts was a good, cold at that elevation. vigorous lomi-lomi treatment ! Next morning they started on at This put new life into them, and first break of day. so that about 9 they pressed on down the river to the o'clock they reached Kilohana, on the sea, which they reached just before verge of the Wainiha valley. Burst- nightfall, after an arduous journey in- ing upon them suddenly and unex- volving many dangerous fordings of pectedly, as it does, the scene which the river, which was swollen by the opened before them filled them with recent rains. wonder and awe. "The clouds were They found the royal party en- literally spread under our feet, com- camped on the Naue flats, about half pletely bounding the view below us a mile west of the mouth of the river. though we had the clear and bright Kaumualii apologized for the rudeness sunshine where we stood, but break- of the accommodation which he offer- ing away occasionally before we be- ed them, as Liholiho and his retainers, gan to descend from this giddy height, as special guests were occupying every- allowed us to see the white surf of the thing available. He offered them a Pacific, rolling upon the shore, at the place with himself and his family, on distance of seven miles ; while majestic the ground, behind a rude shelter and lofty mountains on the right and which protected them from the strong left, presented scenery of peculiar wind in addition to this he gave them grandeur and beauty." each five sheets of tapa for bed clothes, One of the surprising things about and as the night was fine they were these early missionaries is the accu- quite comfortable. racy with which they estimated dis- The next day they went over to Ha- tances, elevations, etc. The ordinary nalei by canoe and were much im- traveller, given to exaggeration, would pressed by the beauty of the valley. have made the distance to the sea ten The local konohiki prepared a suit- or fifteen miles, and the elevation 6,000 able paina for them, in which the stan- or 8,000 feet, but they got them both dard articles of Hawaiian diet were substantially right. supplemented by the fruits that were THE MID-PACIFIC 433

available, which strange to say in- feet or more above them. They cluded delicious oranges, which at that counted no less than 70 people in the early date were already growing there, village. Most of them out on the reef raised from seeds furnished by Van- fishing. They commented with much couver. interest, on the ladder by which the The next morning the royal camp people climbed from the fishing grounds broke up and the two kings and their up to the taro lands in the valley above. numerous retinue started home by way Also on the walled up houses which of Kilauea. The missionaries not car- nestled so close in under the overhang- ing to make this wearisome, long, ing cliff that no other roof was neces- round about trip, and scarcely ready sary. The ruing of these houses may to tackle the mountain journey again, still be seen. accepted Kaumualil's suggestion to re- Here also they saw the native fish- turn to Waimea by canoe. He kind- ermen using auhuhu, or fish poison, ly arranged matters and secured a which they pounded up and then threw double canoe and boatmen for them. into the water where the fish were. It With a fair wind they made the run acted as an intoxicant, so that the fish to Nuololo in a few hours,—all too were stupefied and were easily taken quick to make the most of the magni- by hand. This auhuhu acts very much ficient panorama of the mountains as digitalis does in its influence on the spread out before them. heart. At Nuololo they found, much to their Resuming their journey they reach- surprise, a prosperous fishing village ed Waimea by nightfall, very much im- nestled close in ' under the precipitous pressed by all that they had seen and cliffs which towered three thousand experienced in the last few days. 434 THE MID-PACIFIC

"iiM1=1==1-

In wonderful New Zealand there is a waterfall two thousand feet in height, the hightest waterfall in the world, named after Southerland, its discoverer. The World's Wonderland By C. W. McMURRAN.

HE New-Zealanders are free fertile plains and valleys, the great from vanity and conceit, though icefields of Mount Cook—the lordly T they have achieved success in giant of the Southern Alps—the shape- the highest degree commendable, ly cone of Mount Egmont, and all the founding and building up a new coun- unrivalled beauties of their native land. try practically within the last half- But above all these are the enchant- century. In the words of Holland, ing scenes of the wonderland of the "To labor rightly and earnestly is to South Pacific, of which the New-Zea- adopt the fellowship of all the great landers speak with a feeling of little and good the world has ever known." less than patriotic reverence. Many men and women too, in New The thermometer normally registers Zealand today have helped to subdue that delightful point of 65° in January the primeval forests, to found cities, in the northern part of the North Is- establish commercial industries, and land when the express train leaves to enact laws which are universally Auckland daily for Rotorua. making the colony a recognized fac- At 131 miles from Auckland the tor among nations and a home of train reaches Okoroire, a center of promise beyond the visions of hope. trout-fishing aid deer-stalking. A Apart from the matchless climate finely appointed hotel is built on the of New Zealand, its commercial en- summit of a mountain-range, far back terprise and activity, its splendid from the railway-station, near the scenery is a source of delighted admira- banks of the Waihou River, where tion to the traveller in search of sunny guests have the choice of half a dozen climates and happy regions. The different hot mineral baths under most Maorilanders do 'not boast of their alluring conditions. The large bath- business achievements, but they love houses are situated down under the to speak with natural pride of their gorge of the mountains, where hot sul- country's snow-clad mountains, its phuric springs furnish the ever-flow- 435 436 THE MID-PACIFIC

ing healing waters to the swimming- George Grey, the late Judge Fenton. pools, which are of different degrees and Messrs. S. Percy Smith, Tregear, of temperature suitable to the condi- Best, and many others, have achieved tions and wants of patients. Some some success in endeavouring to solve pools are located directly under over- the problem. One school of ethnolo- hanging fern-covered mountain cliffs, gists, headed by Mr. C. E. Nelson, has where the bather has the canopy of formed a theory that the Maoris are the open sky, and can watch the heal- of Semitic and Hamitic descent, and ing waters coursing and steaming that they originally came from the down the moss-clad rocks to the pool. shores /of the Persian Gulf and from A few miles from the hotel is the South Arabia, making their way east- Auckland Acclimatisation Society's ward, via Java and other halting- trout-hatchery, where millions of young places, to the islands of the Pacific. fish are turned out annually, while This idea was afterwards taken up by hundreds of thousands of three-months- Judge Fenton, from information sup- old fish and tens of thousands of plied by Mr. Nelson, and it was elab- yearlings are liberated in the streams orated in Fenton's "Suggestions for a every year within the Auckland and History of the Origin and Migrations the Okoroire districts. The Acclima- of the Maori People." It is to some tisation Society, under Government extent supported by Mr. S. Percy regulations, imposes a fisherman's li- Smith. The theory has been strength- cense fee of $2y2 on all who fish with ened and defined by philosophical com- a reel. The wise restrictions which parisons and recognition of _ customs the acclimatisation societies have insti- and geographical names on the coasts tuted are making New Zealand the of Arabia which bear a strong resem- "Sportsman's Paradise" of the South blance to those that have been in use Pacific. Nowadays enthusiastic rod- among the Maoris from time immem- and-gun men from England and Aus- orial. While in America recently Mr. tralia make annual trips to the rivers Nelson visited all the ethnological mu- and streams and game-coverts. seums he could reach, and he found in By coach-and-four there is a fine them some very striking Maori-like bush drive of forty miles across coun- relics and implements. In the Smith- try to Rotorua. ' The Government sonian Institute, at Washington, he road goes winding along the hills and saw a black stone club or patu of gorges and beneath hanging ferns. By basaltic stone, found in Colorado of the roadside are fern-trees whose stems the Maori pattern, besides stone and are as tall and stout as, telephone-poles, bone weapons of ancient American rising to a height of from 10 ft to tribes exactly like the Maori mere, 15 ft., the umbrella-like fronds spread- and investigations in many other quar- ing out on the top. ters tended to confirm the theory. In Approaching Rotorua, you see the conclusion, as the result of his obser- outlying whares (houses) of the Maoris vations, Mr. Nelson is of opinion that (pronounced "Mowries"), who acquired the Semitic- Cushite Arab forefathers the titles to their land in some res- of the Maori most probably found pects similar to the manner in which another race of mixed American, In- the American Indians acquired theirs. dian, and Mongolian (Japanese, Kor- The actual "when of the Maoris" is ean and Chinese) extraction already involved in mystery, but the late Sir scattered through the islands of the THE MID-PACIFIC 437

Pacific ; that this original race taught the common fashion is to press nose the new-corners the art of carving to nose and give vent to a prolonged (which probably came from the people wailing cry. of north-west America), and the two The Maoris have four representatives races intermingled and formed the in the House of Representatives and present Polynesian stock. two in the Legislative Council, all men The assertion, so often made by per- of high lineage and natural orators. sons who possess only a superficial The better class of Maoris dress in knowledge of the subject, that the the European fashion, but generally Maoris have no history has been com- the men and women have a penchant pletely disproved and no longer holds for brilliant colors. This is a fea- any place in scientific researches. The ture which more or less distinguishes history of the Maori race is contained all aboriginal races dwelling in sunny in traditions, songs and legends which climates,. and from which a certain have been carefully handed down by class of civilized people are not wholly the ancestors of the tribes. During free. The "dandies" of last century the hearing of a protracted and vexa- were as fond of display as the dancers tious land claim in Auckland some at a fancy-dress ball at the present day. years ago one of the claimants pro- Many of the Maori chiefs derive in- duced in evidence a notched and carved comes from real estate, and under the stick, tracing backwards the genealogy new system of land administration will of the tribe through a period exceeding in course of time become wealthy land- five hundred years ! No doubt the com- lords. pilation of legends and tribal history One of the most prominent charac- now being carried on under the direction teristics of all sections of the Native of the Minster of Native Affairs, will race is their genial hospitality and result in important and reliable dis- courtesy to visitors. They have their coveries. It is a work which has own churches of different denomina- been too long neglected, and was in tions, and most of them are adherents some danger of being partly obscured of the Christian religion. The an- in the mists of time. cient chiefs were polygamous, and The presence of the Maori element, there are a good many followers of with its songs, dances and strange Joseph Smith, whose doctrines were habits and customs, adds greatly to introduced by elders from Utah, but the attractions of this "region of mar- the tenets of the very much-married vels." They are an intelligent and Brigham Young have not obtained any quick-witted people, and under the in- great hold on the Maori mind. fluence and teachings of the Native A native funeral ceremony (tangi) schools, including technical and indus- is a solemn and an impressive spec- trial institutions, and the sanitary re- tacle. The Maori relatives and fellow- forms of the Public Health Depart- tribal members assemble from a dis- ment, they are rapidly becoming Euro- tance of many miles, sit about the peanized in their modes of living. The corpse, which is laid in state, and Maori form of salutation, which is croon their solemn funeral dirges. Al- equivalent to our "Good day," is "Tena ternate mourning and feasting mono- koe," or "That is you" ; but where two polize the time, sometimes extending friends have been long parted, or a over a period of weeks, the length be- distinguished guest is being honored, ing regulated by the degree of mama 438 THE MID -PACIFIC possessed by the deceased. In many the body. It is related that, on the cases the house of death is tapu, and occasion of a comparatively recent is burned down. No Maori other than tangi over the remains of the child of a tohunga (priest) would touch a a chief, her piano, perambulator, dolls, corpse, and the widow must abstain and other possessions were interred from food for several days after the with the body. Valuable greenstones death of her husband, and she is di- have been frequently disclosed in ex- vested of her hair. In the olden days cavating old Maori burying-places, the weapons and other valuables of where the dead had been disposed in the deceased were often buried with a sitting position.

Something About Japanese Painting

(By Henry P. Bowie of "The Tourist Staff.)

HE foreigner who for the first are as definite and comprehensive as it time sees a Japanese painting is is possible for the human mind and aes- T generally unable to understand or thetic sense to formulate. appreciate it. He instinctively compares The most essential characteristic of a it with Western oil paintings to which Japanese painting is in the strength or he is accustomed and, finding that it vigor of the brush stroke. In Western lacks every thing they contain, he con- art that is neither requisite nor pos- cludes that Japanese painting is of no sible. Brush strength is the result of an real artistic value or interest. artistic impulse imparted from the The foreigner's habit of mind, as a shoulder through the hand to the charged rule, is at once to compare thein with brush at the moment it is applied to the paper or painting-silk, and can not be things in his own country and being ig- norant of the laws controlling them, to repeated or repaired. It registers the condemn them as not worth further in- artist's sentiment or soul at a psychic vestigation. And so with Japanese moment and is, as it were, the very life painting. But if we desire to enjoy that blood of the painting, and every stroke art we must divest ourselves of all contains and imparts such vital vigor prejudice and be willing to learn some- to the work. In an oil painting such thing of the laws upon which it is based. results are impossible,—the brush may To compare it with occidental art—with be applied many times to and over the which it really has little or nothing in some place until a desired effect is ob- tained. common—is a trivial waste of time. Another special feature of a Japanese Painting has flourished in Japan for painting is that it is executed with what twelve centuries or more, and its laws we call India ink, or sumi, a black pig- 439 440 THE MID-PACIFIC

ment made either in China or in Japan. and, be the work otherwise faultlessly Those paintings which contain no colors executed in all its features, if Ki In, or are known as sumi or black pigment spiritual manifestation, be lacking, the pictures, and are much esteemed by con- painting is condemned as a real work noisseurs. With the dexterous use of of art. sumi the most wonderful effects in tex- Every Japanese Painting is controlled tures and light and shade called Boku by a principle called Ten Chi Jin (Heav- Shoku, are obtained. In western art en-Earth-Man), which requires that it sumi is never employed. exhibit a leading feature, with its ad- Living movement, called Sei Do, is junct and accompaniments. another special characteristic of oriental For instance in a landscape a moun- painting and is based upon the principle tain may be the chief point of interest that whatever an artist paints he must (Ten) a river at the base, the adjunct feel the very nature of, at the moment (Chi), and trees and animals its neces- he applies the brush. If a rock by the sary accompaniments (Jin). This is a sea coast be introduced, the artist at the canon or doctrine of universal applica- instant of painting it must feel that such tion not only in painting but in archi- rock will forever stubbornly resist the tecture, garden, and flower arrangement force of the wildest waves. If a fly- —versification or poetry and other ing duck be the subject, at the moment achievements of human mind. It is a it is being executed the artist must expe- fundamental law of composition or con- rience within himself the very impulse struction. which the duck's wings impart as it Another set of laws established in whizzes through space with vertiginous China, where oriental art took its origin, speed. Should a tiger be painted, at the moment its claws are executed, its face and enumerated by a great painter and art writer named 0. I. Makitsu requires depicted, and its eyes laid in, the artist that in A landscape where the mountain must fully experience, and realize the savage, feline cruelty of that animal. is of a given height the trees must be This marvelous psycological law is the one tenth that size, horses one tenth secret by which such extraordinary vi- smaller than the trees, and human be- tal effects are secured. ings the size of a small bean (Jo san Another essential of a Japanese work seki ju, Sun ba to jin) ; again that dis- of art is called Ki In, or spiritual mani- tant water shows no waves, distant trees festation. It is a firm conviction in the no leaves, man at a distance no features. Orient that every painting reflects the A favorite painting subject with ori- state of mind of the artist executing it. ental artists is known as the 4 paragons His soul is laid bare by his work, which and refers to the orchid, bamboo, plum is un etat d'ame, and this psychic prin- and chrysanthemum, and the laws ap- ciple determines its real value. If ele- plicable to painting them are numerous vated sentiments prevail when the work and unique. is achieved, the observer will experience For instance the leaves of the orchid sentiments in viewing it. Just as we must be so crossed as naturally to re- are unconsciously favorably impressed call the shape of the eye of the elephant by the nobility of soul in persons we or of the phoenix, and so pointed as to may meet, so a good painting will im- suggest a rat's tail while those leaves press those to whom it may be shown. painted with a downward bending ten- It reflects the very nature of the artist dency must yet suggest that their nat- THE MID-PACIFIC 441 ural inclination is to point to the sky. It should be added that there This principle is called Bo Un, or cloud are various schools of Japanese paint- longing, and imparts wonderful vigor. ers, among others the Tosa, Kano, In the bamboo subjects, laws determine, Maruyama, and . Ukiyoye. The Tosa the form of their knots, the stag horn painters reproduce Japanese court shape of their slender branches, the scenes and pictures more or less con- fish-like shape of the leaves, the digitate nected with the nobility and_use colors character of the leaf building, the fish most successfully in their work. scale pattern for leaf cluster combina- The Kano painters reproduce Chinese tion of and the like. In the plum sub- scenery and Chinese subjects and their ject, quaint principles obtain, among work is generally executed in. Sumi others, that the branches in crossing more in mass than with line and is im- suggest the Chinese character for wo- pressionistic in character, detail being man, and that the stamens be painted eschewed and sentiment and suggestion with the sentiment of the Chinese char- aimed at. Sometimes perspective seems acter for little (sho). lacking, but if so it is purposely omitted. In the chrysanthemum there are even laws for the petals which must illustrate The Maruyama painters, Okyo and a principle of widest application called followers, are more accurate in execu- In Yo, or the male and female, Light tion, their work being the result of care- and Shade, Positive and Negative. ful sketching. Birds, flowers, animals, Another interesting feature in Orien- landscapes, and human beings are the tal art is the extensive use made of cer- subjects of this school. tain Chinese characters in producing The Ukiyoye painters including Ho- most satisfactorily artistic effects. Such kusai and Hiroshige, both real genuises, characters are not literally written in, represent the popular school and repro- but the sentiment of their construction duce everything of interest in the ev- is invoked, and marvelous effects pro- eryday life of the common peoples. duced. For instance in tree foliage the From this school originated the Jap- Chinese character called Kai is invoked anese prints so much esteemed by for- with surprisingly natural results. Again eigners; to whom Utamaro, Harunobu, there is a law called the law of dots Toyokuni and Koryusai are household regulating leaf effects according to the names. most ingenious principles. There is an- In this connection be it remarked that other marvelous law regulating the such xylographs, ezoshi or nishikiye as eighteen recognized ways of painting the they are called, are not regarded by lines of the garments (E mon ju hachi Japanese painters as true works of art byo). and in no sense are they to be con- It will be readily perceived from the sidered Japanese paintings. They are foregoing rapid sketch of the subject simply prints ; they are not the inspired that unless a foreigner has some special works of one artist, but the calculated instruction in this wonderful art, it is result of the collaboration of several impossible for him to form a satisfac- workmen ; they are as a rule concerned tory judgment or opinion concerning it with unelevated subjects or characters or its products. such as actors, geisha and the like. 442 THE MID-PACIFIC By H. A. DOERING.

F you are fond of volcanoes go to sanatorium distanced some two miles, Garoet. There you find yourself which as hotel and sanatorium alike is I in a dell around and above which much frequented. five volcanoes rise like the petals of an Although. the place is the seat of an enormous flower. The advantages of Assistant-Resident and a Regent (na- spending a few days at Garoet are tive chief), it is comparatively an un- many. In the first place it is cool interesting town in itself, but its situ- being 2,300 feet above sea-level. In the ation in the very centre of a group second place it boasts of numerous ex- of volcanoes, its variety of beautiful cursions and motor rides, which may excursions, its clean and excellent ho- be reckoned amongst the most beautiful tels, have made Garoet not only a to be made in Java. In the third place favorite health resort but also the it is an ideal place for walks, the near most visited headquarters. The vicinity of the city not being very hilly, drives, walks and rides around Garoet, thus making walking a pleasure and the changing aspects of the neighbour- not a task. ing volcanoes, the hot baths, lakes and Garoet is a pretty little "town, so craters, in fact all the natural wonders completely smothered in vegetation that that are found near Garoet, make the at many places you cannot see more place rank foremost amongst the than one house at a time. The mountain resorts of Java. hotels with a single exception are all There is an interesting passar at in the near neighborhood of the sta- Garoet and besides the lavish display tion and it boasts of an up-to-date of nature's products, there are curious 443 444 THE MID-PACIFIC

baskets, hats and mats brought from It is a drive of 11 miles nearly due the surroundings of Tasikmalaya where South to the village of Tjisoeroepan, this native industry is found. The some 4,000 feet up in the hills ; there the town square or aloon-aloon is faced traps are left behind and mostly a light by the dwellings of the native Regent breakfast is taken at the Hotel Villa and the European Assistant-Resident. Pauline which is situated there, before and by the quaint Misigit or Mahom- resuming the journey on rough wiry meddan mosque. little mountain ponies or by sedan The great excursion from Garoet is chairs. the one to the crater of the Papanda- From Tjisoeroepan to the Papanda- jan, a mountain whose extended lines jan crater is a ride of over two hours (some fifteen miles in length by six in' and an ascent of about 2,500 feet for the breadth) match its syllables and which most part through the typical tropical has been in vigorous eruption a cen- forest, where every moment brings tury and a half ago ; as yet it still some new thrill of pleasure. Magni- steams and rumbles across the plain ficent trees, giants of the jungle. and may at any moment burst forth graceful ferns, brilliant flowers, snake- again. like creepers and wonderful orchids At the last eruption of the Papanda- combine in adding to one's enjoyment. jan in 1772 there was a great convul- No description, no sketch nor photo- sion, a solid part of the mountain was graph can adequately picture the mys- blown out into the air, streams of lava terious fascination of the jungle. There poured forth, and ashes and cinders is an atmosphere, a dreamy undescrib- covered the earth for miles around with able something in these dense forests a layer some feet thick, destroying which has a peculiarly intoxicating ef- forty villages and killing three thou- fect on the nerves and senses and sand people in one day. The scar of makes one feel like a happy child. The this great crater or "blow out hole" beauty of the scene, the marvelous near the summit of the mountain is exuberance of nature, absolutely car- still visible from the plain and the ries one away for the time being. plumes and columns of smoke ascend- Finally the road emerges from the ing from it, remind one of its unpleas- forest on a stretch of open trail, ant possibilities. passes a series of sulphur terraces over The first part of the way to the which trickles a stream of luke warm Papandajan one travels by automobile water and continues for a short dis- or trap, and rugs will come useful, for tance over yellow and brown porous the start is made in the early morning grounds. and the air at that hour in Garoet is A little further the break in the more cold than refreshing. For some crater wall is 'reached and the traveller miles one drives across the plain along dismounts, to ascend on foot along a hard sandy white roads, continuously rough, steep mountain path to the bordered by shade trees. Just after edge of the main crater, 8460 feet leaving Garoet some irrigation works above sea-level. are gone by and the frequent villages Climbing over the path of broken one passes with their peculiar houses, rock one is soon in a position to view • having quite elaborate worked balus- the entire crater basin, an irregular trades and verandahs, are of absorbing valley which is crossed by a small interest. stream. This crater basin is some THE MID- PACIFIC 445 two miles in circumference and on all tains are of a silvery and transparent sides with the exception of a place where blue. The rich yellows and greens of part of the mountain was blown away, the rice fields soften into a light and ten- surrounded by steep walls, which partly der green on nearing the margin of the are as yet bare, partly covered with lakes in the valley. It is like a checker forests, and rise steeply some six board of green and glistening fields in- to nine hundred feet in the air. The dicating hidden villages and bright crater bottom is quite bare, a well de- patches of water glistening in the sun- fined path running through it and shine. leading to the many curious phenom- The various and beautiful colors ena of this uncanny place. around seem to tingle with light and • Here the traveller may investigate warmth as the clean sun shines on at close range a variety of strange them and the keen mountain air blows manifestations of volcanic activity ; he over them—a sharp contrast with the may poke sticks in bubbling pools of desolate and awe-inspiring place just hot grey mud and boiling water or di- left. vert himself by throwing small sticks Garoet is one of the many places in or stones into the • openings of, sizzl- Java having thermal springs which are ing little mud volcanoes, miniature only a couple of miles distant. The cones, two or three feet high which trip is mostly combined with the one resent such actions most venomously to the lovely lakes of Leles and Bagen- and quickly vomit out with angry dit, being a beautiful morning drive. splutters the object of their aversion. It takes about three quarters of an Here and there gleaming masses of hour to drive from Garoet to Sitoe yellow sulphur are seen, deposits Bagendit, a small lake which derives emitted from brown stained cracks its name from its shape, more or less which at the same time pour forth fancifully thought to resemble the hilt columns of vapour and suffocating of a kris. gases. The houses of the districts passed At other points from narrow fissures, testify to the thrift and well-being of as from the safety valve of a boiler, the people. Many of them are quite slender streaks of steam escape to the elaborate, with tiled roofs, balustraded outer air with a hissing sound. verandahs, split bamboo screens and Nearly everywhere the ground under blinds. one's feet has an unpleasant hollow, The Soendanese dwellings may eas- springy and unreliable feeling and in ily be distinguished by their high many places a very considerable heat gables and several layers of roofs and is felt even through thick boots, and by the continuation of the front cross one can easily understand the native parts several feet beyond their inter- legends of chained giants groaning in- section. At the native forges in the side the mountain, when listening to villages gone by a peculiar form of the roaring and hissing from all sides bellows is seen in use. Upright of the quaking solfatara combined with wooden cylinders in and out of which the rumblings and underground noises huge pistons are pushed and pulled which now and then are heard. by man power are connected with the On the return trip, a magnificent fire by • long pipes—a primitive and at view over the plain of Garoet is re- the same time curiously complicated vealed. Away in the north the moun- contrivance. 446 THE MID-PACIFIC

Reaching the lake of Bagendit In the rather shaky pavilion one is through a short stretch of main street seated on European chairs while a of the village at its borders, one has crew of four squats in the projecting to wait a little while if wanting to go bows and sterns of the dugouts to for a row on the lake, the raft on paddle. which one has to navigate the waters The trip is only of short duration of the lake, mostly not being directly but well worth while, the people fish- ready for use. Of this space of time ing in the lake making it especially the village children always make use an interesting and picturesque excur- to play the "Anklong" musical instru- sion. A small hill on the other side ments consisting of rows of flexible of the lake has on its top a covered bamboo reeds, secured at the lower shelter from which a splendid view of ends to a wooden base. When shaken, volcanoes can be had. ' The scene is these reeds give forth a melodious wonderfully impressive and the smoke music which, despite its strangeness is rising from some of these great cones quite agreeable to the ear. brings one to the realisation of the The raft which is punted or rowed fact that these mountains are alike the across the lake looks like a kind of creators and destroyers of the fertile floating summer house. Two dugouts lands around them, responsible alike are placed parallel to one another at for the extraordinary riches of the soil a distance of about 5 or 6 feet and then and for those upheavals which from rested on a platform or flooring over time to time without warning ruin the which rises a roof supported by four crops and turn these beautiful valleys cornered posts. into scenes of misery and desolation. Hawaii's Great Opportunity (By Riley H. Allen.)

LL of the inevitable great future of dent. Even under the abnormal condi- trade in the Pacific somehow con- tions of civil war, frequent revolutionary A cerns Hawaii. uprisings, devaluated currency, disor- It is fully expected that the biggest ganized transportation facilities, and a trade on the Pacific will be between the considerable anti-American propaganda, ports of America and those of China 'and thesre is vast promise for future trade of Siberia. This will mean steamers, and great benefit to Siberia and to America. steamers will mean ports of call en route I sat recently in a tiny office high across the ocean. up in a great stone building on a main Seattle's destiny as a factor in ocean street. The office is unpretentious, commerce was never clearer than is Ho- .even obscure. Yet in it there is trans- nolulu's, providing Honolulu plans on acted one of the largest for businesses an ample scale. in Siberia. The central figure in the Honolulu is a logical port of call for office is a veteran fur buyer from St. trans-Pacific steamers. It is agreed that Louis. In and out of the door ebbs and when America's new great commercial flows a curious and intensely interest- fleet gets into full action there will be ing tide of humanity—Russians, Buriats, a great traffic in and out of Honolulu Saghalien and Amur gulf fishermen, harbor—if the harbor can handle it. Chinese, Japanese, Koreans ; trappers, What is the answer? brokers, traders, speculators, buying and Even in Vladivostock, this icebound selling the skins which will adorn the port of Siberia, signs of blossoming white throats and smooth shoulders of American commercial activity are evi- metropolitan beauties, or drape the fig- 447 448 THE MID-PACIFIC

ures of movie stars, or decorate the li- and the one form of diversion which braries of millionaires. reaches from the aristocrat to the un- They come to trade in the glossy lettered peasant is the movie show. And brown sables that are the most costly so in every city and town where I have skins in the world—and just now attain- found movies they were crowded. ing unprecendented heights ; or the yel- German movie producers did not over- low and brown fitch ; or the dappled look such fat pickings, nor did they ig- marten ; or the tawny red fox ; or the nore the value of this field for exploit- crisp white fox ; or the game skins that ing German "kultur." German-made go to America for rugs—brown bear, films were being shown, when the war great Siberian wolf, or the magnificent came, from Archangel to Vladivostok ; polar bear. from Odessa to Nicolaievsk, on the This buyer knows his business. He mouth of the Amur that empties into the will buy anything from a tiny ermine Ohkhotsk sea. And you can understand (not over 15 inches long) to a Siberian that in the subtle way of German prop- tiger skin that covers 11 feet. He will aganda, the might and power and future buy a single skin or one hundred thou- supremacy of Germany were delineated sand. He buys with a rapidity which and glorified. reminds me more than anything else of One Russian moving picture man told the lightning trades on the floor of the me that he had a string of theaters in Chicago wheat pit. And he buys be- Siberia when the war broke out and that cause he knows that America presents a nearly all of his films were supplied tremendous demand for Siberian furs. from Germany. He said that the Ger- mans made surprisingly low rates for Forty fur buyers were here not long the Russian houses and that they would ago, and the majority were Americans. even supply films without charge when The majority of those Americans, after a penniless producer wished to under- bucking the well-nigh hopeless game of take a new enterprise. After the war trying to build a permanent trade under came, and the Russians began to exam- present conditions, feel that Siberia is ine the methods of German propaganda, perhaps not an immediately profitable they found that these films supplied free field, but that in the years to come it were loaded with pro-German propa- will be one of the greatest of America's ganda. foreign customers. Thus it was in many other commer- Before the big war broke out in 1914 cial lines in Siberia—machinery, electri- Germany had a stranglehold on much of cal apparatus, chemicals, textiles, and the trade of Siberia. The German gen- perhaps especially in educational mate- ius for subterranean activity furthering rials, books, maps, laboratory equipment, its own imperialistic ends never was bet- etc. The Russian and German educa- ter illustrated than in what happened in tional systems were tied together by the the movie field. Siberia, by the way, force of thousands of professors and and European Russia, too, for that mat- students who went from one country to ter, is one of the most fertile fields the the other. Comparatively few Russians movie man could wish. The majority of in Siberia speak English, but an aston- the people are illiterate ; they have little ishingly large number speak German and with which to amuse themselves ; the have studied at German universities. I long winter nights and necessity for re- think the majority of the physicians and maining indoors gives them idle time ; educators I have met are thoroughly THE MID-PACIFIC 449, schooled in German philosophy and sci- not expect a fever patient to be normal ; ence. you need not be surprised that there is The reaction against _ Germany was anti American propaganda based merely immediate in 1914, and its intensity on the super-irritation and mental sick- grew as the stories came out of the pro- ness of a people plunged in tragedy. German party in the czar's court. Yet, Many a Russian, in widely varying after the Brest-Litovsk treaty, there was walks of life, has said to me that what apparent the beginning of another sea- Siberia needs is not American rifles but son of activity in trade relations between American clothes, machinery, school Germany and Russia, felt even into Si- books and garden seeds. beria. The reason is that Russia and I believe that Siberia offers the Amer- Siberia are famishing for commodities, ican business man quite as great an op- and Germany is finding time somehow portunity as does South America. Not in the midst of her other troubles to be- immediately, for the civil war is not gin a rebuilding of the oldtime struc- over, the standard rouble currency is al- ture of mutual trade. most worthless ; customs houses, steamer If the Allied nations allow Germany and railway transportation, and banking to have her way in Russia and Siberia are disorganized. There is still ahead a the path is clear to a future alliance, period of flux, a season of evolution which will menace the world. This is through the violence of the present to not to say that the Russians desire such the stability of the future. It would be an alliance. I have talked with many foolish to try to say how long that pe- of them, and almost without exception riod will be—perhaps six months, per- they feel that the good of Russia lies haps five years. But it seems likely , in other roads than those which lead to that even during the state of change German trade relations. But they also some business will continue, and that • say that the 180,000,000 Russians are American business men who put their in such great need of the economic ne- faith in Siberia and constantly endeavor cessities that they will turn even to an to build up relations on lines of ordinary, enemy if that enemy can supply them. common, every day honesty, fair deal- And Germany will move heaven and ing and freedom from graft of any earth to supply as much as possible, even sort, will in the future find their orig- at cost of some shortage at home. inal investment drawing handsome divi- Although anti-American propaganda dends. has been rather stiff in Siberia during The American expeditionary forces the past few months, especially in the are already withdrawing from Siberia. autumn of 1919,. I cannot feel that it The American Red Cross is withdraw- fairly represents the sentiment of the ing all of its women personnel, and is people. It reflects two things—one ele- leaving a unit of male personnel to dis- ment of the people who are really anti- tribute the supplies on hand for the re- American, for any one of a multitude of lief of the destitute and to equip Rus- reasons ; and the bitterness, suffering sian hospitals and other institutions to and disillusionment of a great mass of carry on after the Red Cross goes. humanity who hoped the Allied expedi- There is no question that the year and a tions would bring peace to their land. It half of American Red Cross activity has is also due to the state of mind of a had a great effect on Siberia. In spite people chronically short of food, cloth- of illiteracy, in spite of disorganized ing and ordinary comfort. You would railway and telegraph facilities, in spite .450 THE MID-PACIFIC of lack of newspapers, except in a few American business men, I hope, will of the larger cities, in spite of the pre- build on the future of Siberia by fair occupation of the people with their po- dealing in those goods which America litical, military and economic troubles, best of all nations can supply and which news that the American people sent mil- Siberia needs so sorely. I fully expect lions of dollars' worth of relief supplies the biggest trade on the Pacific to be and more than 300 American men and that between the American ports and women to work for the relief of the Si- the ports of China and Siberia. This berians, has slowly spread from the cen- means steamers, and steamers mean ters of population to the remote peasant ports of call en route across the wide hamlets and the isolated trading posts. ocean. This means Honolulu. I have come to feel that this work A number of years ago when Seattle will be far more recognized in the next had the same question up in the news- ten or fifteen years than now. Its ef- papers, the commercial organizations fect on the relations of America and Si- and the trade bodies. If Seattle had beria will be correspondingly more evi- let doubt about the future tie her hands, dent. she would be still a struggling Puget Half a dozen large American firms— Sound town. But Seattle decided to transportation and import and export— play the game on big principles, to equip have their eyes on Vladivostok, and herself for a generation to come with many an unpretentious civilian who has ample harbor facilities—and the Seattle drifted in and out of this port in the punch went with that decision. Today past year was the "scout" for some great Seattle is outstripping San Francisco in American house, looking over the pos- her ocean commerce, and American sibilities. One of them told me that he shipping men who come to Vladivostok .would recommend to his home office say that Seattle's harbor facilities will not to come here just now, but to shape make her a greater city than the south- all their plans with the idea that in a ern metropolis. year or so they would go after the trade Seattle's destiny as a factor in ocean of Siberia in a big way. He was con- commerce was never clearer than is Ho- vinced that America will emerge from nolulu's — provided Honolulu plans on the present welter of conflicting senti- an ample scale. I have been interested ment here as the best liked of all for- in talking with the masters of freighters eign nations and also convinced that the which touch here. I generally ask them Siberians would trust both American as to the prospects of Hawaii playing a goods and American national intentions. big part in the future commerce of the And that combination of sound goods Pacific. Some of them have not been and unselfish intentions is unbeatable— in the port of Honolulu, and can only if backed by the right punch and en- say that it is a logical place of Call. ergy. Those who have been at Honolulu agree All of the inevitable great future of that when our new great commercial trade on the Pacific somehow concerns Hawaii. As stated at the beginning of fleet gets into full action, there will be this aricle, signs of American commer- a great traffic in and out of Honolulu cial activity are evident in this port. harbor—if the harbor can handle it. Some soldiers of China.

Athletes in China's Army (By Rodney Gilbert.)

BOUT 15 years ago the study of was ever mentioned that it was not na- the . Japanese system of self-de- tive to Japan but, like so much else in A fense generally known as jiu- Japan, had been originally borrowed j itsu became very popular in Occidental from China. That the system of wrest- countries. Japanese professors of the art ling which is parent to jiu-jitsu is still were permanently retained ; some Euro- cultivated in China, and is now widely peans and Americans came to the Far taught, only recently became known to East to take post-graduate courses in Ja- the writer, and though many others may pan, and the impression they gave was be fully aware of this, it is probably not that jiu-jitsu was very much more than a commonly known that the Chinese pro- system of wrestling tricks, and that it fessors of the art claim that the Japa- involved a profound knowledge of the nese system of self-defence is incom- human anatomy. The writer does not plete and that the old Chinese science remember that while jiu-jitsu was re- of self-defence is still superior. ceiving all this advertising abroad, it The most ardent living patron of phy- 451 452 THE MID-PACIFIC sical training along old Chinese lines is slashes the air with them in all direc- the Commander of the 2nd Division of tions, does all manner of wonderful ac- the Frontier Defence Army and of the robatics which frequently force him to 47th Mixed Brigade, General Ma Liang, tun his unprotected back to the enemy, now Occupation Commissioner at., Tsi- and one's Chinese friends explain in an nanfu. impressed tone after it is all over, that For 18 years General Ma has been this paragon of agility was fighting 50 working upon a revival of ancient Chi- enemies. It would be very unjust to nese military training ; that he has General Ma indeed, to give the impres- trained more than 30,000 students in this sion that his whole performance is of revivified science and has introduced his this character but there is enough of system of physical culture into so many it introduced to make the Chinese spec- branches of the army that more than tators gasp and to make any foreign 300,000 soldiers are indirectly his pu- witnesses who have seen real broad- pils in a system of physical training de- sword contests smile. If one views the signed to school them in self-defence. whole performance as nothing more The writer has witnessed the sports than a show, an entertainment, he is of many peoples, has been in the audi- bound to confess it is one of the best ences of all the great circuses and Wild he has ever seen, and that most of the West shows, and is familiar with all the acrobats and swordsmen in Chinese the- Occidental sports from boxing to la- atres are amateurs compared with Gen- crosse, but he has never seen a perform- eral Ma's soldiers, everyone of whom is ance in which more skill and agility thoroughly drilled in the various arts were shown or an exhibition of rougher of which samples are given during the horse-play than that which is provided performance. by the men who drill in Tsinan under The show begins gently and placidly General Ma Liang's personal supervi- with a drill in callisthenics and comes to sion. a climax in a whirlwind of violence in The dramatic features of the perform- which the performers are groups of sun- ance, like all Chinese affairs of the kind, blackened over-muscled men of terrific are perfect. One feels throughout that strength and agility, none of whom one no feature of the drill was ever designed would care to meet in the dark. The without having the spectator in mind. drill-ground is a small court in which To the European, this detracts a little the earth has been rolled hard and from from the performance and he is bound which every pebble, and fragment of to get the impression that the training, stone has been carefully picked. Along is more showy than practical, and that one wall there is a rack of antique Chi- while much that is done is exceedingly nese weapons, straight swords, curved graceful and requires much agility, it swords, lances, halberds, quarter-staves, is much better adpated to the theatre clubs linked together like flails and than to the actual field of combat. The many other weapons for which we have• Chinese of course, never get this im- no name. At the south end of the court pression. there is a number of large stone dumb- Almost every foreigner who is inter- bells, piles of granite paving stones and ested in Chinese affairs has seen dis- little heaps of bricks and tiles which plays of sword manipulation in the thea- serve an astonishing purpose at the end tre. The hero of the piece rushes out of the show. with a glittering blade in each hand, The audience sits under a pavilion at THE MID -PACIFIC 453 the north end of the court and after tea sized club who knows how to use it, can and cigarettes have been served, a group take care of himself almost anywhere of students from the training school and that its constant use will give him which is now supplying instructors in an excellent physique. As he says, al- physica culture to the schools in the most anyone, no matter how poor, can army of many provinces, file in through procure a club, and his training in the a gate in the south end of the court and use of a club will give a man strength do their callisthenics. and self-confidence ; that if every one We Occidentals have gone pretty thor- in China could be persuaded to go oughly into callisthenics, but the Chi- through this simple training, the people nese have contrived to devise a system would be much more vigorous and ag- of movements which has little in com- gressive, mentally as well as physically. mon with anything one sees in West- The 'quarter-staff drill is a little more ern gymnasiums. It seems designed to strenuous than the callisthenics. It is develop suppleness and double-jointed- followed by exhibitions of boxing in ness rather than muscular strength. This which kicking also plays a part, and is very hard to describe but if one can which, while it is apparently staged imagine a system of drill for a class of simply as an exhibition of agility and would-be contortionists, he will have muscular control, involves some pretty some understanding of the peculiarities hard slapping and kicking. The men of this system. In a remote city in drive about the courtyard, landing upon Shensi, the writer once saw a soldier the hard ground in all possible attitudes, with his foot upon the parapet of the roll over lightly, and bound to their. city wall, apparently making a violent feet. It does not seem to do the least effort to make his knee joint bend the harm to one of these acrobats to slide a wrong way. He explained that he was few yards along the hard earth on his preparing his leg muscles against pos- face, and a vigorous kick in the jaw sible strain and this seems to be the ba- simply ,starts one of the boxers on a sis of Chinese callisthenics. The mus- series of back somersaults which he con- cles are twisted and the joints are cludes with a bow and a smile. strained by every movement and the re- After this comes the wrestling which sult is that the• boys seem remarkably is fast and furious and which is very lithe and tough, rather than much de- evidently no child's play. General Ma veloped. shows the keenest interest in this and Following the callisthenics comes a impresses his friends with the fact that it sword drill with straight swords, and is much more completely developed than following this there is a drill in the use the "small part" which the Japanese of a quarter staff about six feet long. have borrowed. To the foreigner it At this pgint in the performance, Gen- would certainly seem the most business- eral Ma will explain to his friends and like and most useful part of the whole guests, that in this drill he has devised performance. something which will rejuvenate Chi- The men strip to the waist and put na and give every man, woman and child on short, closely quilted canvas jackets not only a good physique, but also self- which are belted with long sashes. The reliance. He points out that the Chi- play is too fast and furious for a spec- nese people are poor and that they can- tator to understand the rules clearly. It not all possess firearms and be skilled would seem that all grips are taken upon in their use, but that a man with a good the canvas jacket, tripping is apparent- 454 THE MID-PACIFIC

ly permissible and while the spectators other lies upon his back, supports dumb- sometime protest against leg-holds, bells weighing 540 pounds on his feet some of the wrestlers resort to this. A and hands and upon these a pyramid of man is thrown when he loses his bal- nine men is built. A number of lesser ance and immediately releases his hold lights perform with lesser dumb-hells, upon his adversary. In most cases, how- then a man rushes to the front, two ever, he does not go down gently and others toss a granite paving stone four some of the throws are so violent that inches thick on his back and it is the thud of the defeated one's body re- cracked with a sledge-hammer. sounds throughout the courtyard. This is the signal for a general fu- In this phase of the drill the Japa- rore of tile and brick breaking among nese are of course intensely interested. the acrobats. They break bricks in General Ma says that thousands of Jap- their hands, break them over their arms, anese officers and men have come at over the backs of their necks, and over one time and another to see the per- each other's faces. One man leans over, formance, and, according to creditable balances six bricks on the side of his witnesses, one or two of the best wrest- face, while another smashes them all lers have thrown every jiu-jitsu cham- with a seventh. A man with half-a-doz- pion whom the Japanese have been able en tiles in each hand will clip them over to bring to Tsinan. his neighbor's ears and break them all. Highly dramatic combats with lances Finally in the midst of this whirl-wind and swords follow the wrestling and of destruction, one round-headed de- while it is certain that the men purpose- votee drops on his knees, puts half a ly miss one another in their lunges and brick on top of his head upon which a slashes, they miss by so narrow a mar- huge slab of granite is balanced which gin that the spectator is out of his seat is then shattered with a sledge hammer. throughout most of the contest. The show is then over. After these artists come the strong Military men who have seen the show men, as highly developed as any whom have told the writer that there is scarce- we are accustomed to see in the Occi- ly any feature of it which could not be dent. One man takes a dumb-bell weigh- adapted to Occidental uses, and they ing 266 pounds, tosses it in the air, all agree that if such a system of phy- catches it on his upturned forearms, sical training were introduced in the tosses it again, catches it in one hand, Chinese schools it would tremendously rests it upon his head and then twirls it enhance the value of the Chinese male about his neck, shoulders and waist. An- population as military material. Singapore in Story

By S. S. Beet.

HE early history of Singapore tlers from the Hindu-Malayan Empire rests upon tradition, and from of Java, and its dependency, Sumatra. T this it seems to be established It is believed that its more ancient name that "leaving • Palembang in Sumatra, was Tamasek, but that it is now utterly some Malays settled in Singapore about lost. 1360 A. D., under Sang Nila Utama. The However great be the ancient renown latest authoritative account of this settle- of the City of Singapore in local tradi- ment describes the ancient kingdom of tion, it was so little accounted of in later Singapore or Tamasek as a mere off- times that in 1703 the Raja of Johore shot of the State of Palembang, which offered it to a Captain Hamilton, who did not last for any length of time, but declined the present, though he remarked came to a sudden and terrible end in the that it was "a proper place to settle a year of the great Japanese invasion, 1377 colony in, lying in the center of trade A. D. The legends connected with the and accommodated with good rivers and fall of the City of Singapore on this oc- a safe harbor, so conveniently situated casion suggest that it was effected with that all winds serve shipping both to go terrible bloodshed." out and come into these rivers." This The name itself has inspired many and description of Singapore has never been often fantastic attempts at explanation bettered, and it agrees with the remark by philologists, Malay and European. of an earlier Portuguese writer that to Nothing seems 'better than the obvious Singapore "resorted all the navigators of interpretation that Singapura is two San- the western seas of India and of the skrit words, that Singha is Sanskrit for eastern of Siam, China, Campa and "lion" and Pura for "city," that the word Cambodia, as well as of thousands of means City of the Lion, and that the islands to the eastward." name was magniloquently given to it to So long as the Dutch held Malacca, bring it good luck by Sanskrit-using set- which they did until 1795, there was no

455 . 456 THE MID-PACIFIC object for them in founding another ject is not territory, but trade: a great great city on the Peninsula, though the commercial emporium and a fulcrum anchorages at Singapore were much su- whence we may extend our influence, perior to those at Malacca, and the size politically, as circumstances may here- of ships was growing. But in 1818, after require. One free port in these threatened by the British with a loss of seas must eventually destroy the spell their monopoly in the Peninsula, they of Dutch monopoly." occupied a post in Rhio, one of the Meanwhile, the spell of His Nether- islands visible from Singapore to the lands Majesty's 'armaments at Batavia south. had rattled the resolution of the Su- At that time the British were already preme Government in Calcutta, which in Penang, so the position was that Pe- sent after Raffles a letter of counter- nang was British, Malacca Dutch, and mand. This he received after founding Rhio Dutch. Clearly it was expedient for Singapore. Penang sent him no assist- Britain to cut in between Rhio and Ma- ance, and only in 1822 did Great Britain lacca. recognize Singapore, for not until that On the nineteenth of August, 1818, date did its Government realize that the therefore, Major Farquhar, subordinate "long, long thoughts" of Raffles were of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, made destined to work out the commercial sal- a treaty providing for mutual liberty of vation of England in these seas. navigation and commerce in the ports The subsequent history of Singapore and dominions of Johore, Pahang, Linggi is that of a growing commercial free and Rhio and other places subject to the port, but up to the invention of steam Sultan of Johore, this including Singa- the trade was much harassed by Malay pore. piratical phahus which infested the Sing- Sir Stamford Raffles was at that time apore Straits, the islands, the coast of Lieutenant-Governor of Bencoolen (Su- the Peninsula and the adjacent sea. matra). From there he wrote to the Steamers entered Singapore from Hon. East India Company in Bengal, the west pass between the west end of urging the acquisition not of Singapore, Blakang Mati Island on the right and but of Bentan (Bintang), and island op- Fort Pasir Panjang, on the. Island. of posite. He spoke of a simple commer- Singapore, on the left. Blakang Mati, cial station with a military guard to which is a very hilly island, extends force free trade under the British flag. from the harbor limit on the west at the He followed the letter in person and re- foot of Fort Pasir Panjang to Mount turned as agent to the Most Noble, the Palmar on the east, a distance of nearly Governor-General with the States of two miles, and forms a natural break- Rhio, Lingin and Johores to occupy water to the wharves on the Singapore some central station, signed with Johore side. The waters enclosed between the plenipotentiaries the necessary treaty islands of Blakang Mati and Singapore, ceding Singapore and hoisted the Brit- formerly known as New Harbor, are ish flag "on the site of the ancient mar- now called Keppel Harbor, after Admiral itime capital of the Malays." Keppel, who discovered this deep water "It is a child of my own," he wrote, - anchorage. and "bids fair to be one of the most Blakang Mati is strongly fortified and important (colonies) and at the same "possesses a considerable garrison whose time, one of the least expensive and trou- large and commodious barracks now blesome which we possess. Our ob- form an outstanding feature of the THE MID -PACIFIC 457 island. Close to Blakang Mati, still on ably with any of the temples to be seen the right hand side of the channel, there in China itself. On feature of the lies the island of Pulau Brani, which is temple is the series of panels on the the headquarters of the Royal Engi- walls showing the different kinds of tor- neers. On this island are the famous ture in use in China. tin-smelting works, belonging to the The new reservoir, about a mile and Straits Trading Company, the tall chim- a half from the first, is also well worth neys of which form conspicuous land- a visit. This road runs fourteen miles marks. to Kranji, which, before the railway, There are many picturesque drives, was the place of embarkation for Johore either for motors or carriages, in Singa- Bahru, the chief town of Johore. Turn- pore. To the reservoirs at Thompson ing to the left at the rubber plantation, Road is one. Another is out to the Gap, where are some of the oldest trees in two hours return by motor, or along the Peninsula, and after passing the Tanjong Katong and the East Coast Economic Gardens, is the entrance to the Road along the sea to Bedoh, returning Botanical Gardens, that precious posses- by the Changi Road. This is a two-hour sion of Singapore. Here are all the motor run. palms of the world and the stately glory of them, and in the lake apparently all The drive to the reservoirs is the the tropical lilies there are. In the eve- shortest of these for a carriage, say two ning the center of the gardens is hours, and as it is not necessary to re- crowded with carriages and motors, turn the same way, a great deal of the which have brought the English chil- prettier portions of Singapore are vis- dren to play in these lovely grounds. ited. The race course and golf course Singapore has just celebrated its hun- are passed. Then the white pillars of dredth anniversary under British Rule. the fine residence of an Arab notable, Its people are looking forward to a great and finally, by way of Mount Pleasant, expansion of its shipping and commerce. the tourist arrives at the reservoir, a As the principal port and market of the very beautiful sheet of water broken by Straits Settlements and the Federated promontories, and surrounded with Malay States and as a trans-shipping Woods. point for the island of the East Indies, The Chinese Temple on Balestier road Singapore is well situated to realize these should be visited. It compares favor- hopes. 458 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Trail and Mountain Club of Hawaii has cut trails to some of the highest peaks. Here we have one of the many mountains giving more than three thousand feet climb to the club members. Mountain Tramping in Hawaii By L. A. THURSTON.

(The following remarks are from an as interesting a week as I have ever address at the weekly luncheon of the spent anywhere. The superintendents of Trail and Mountain Club, Honolulu. Mr. National Parks now are almost without Thurston has been climbing the moun- exception in the work through enthusi- tains of the Hawaiian Islands for more asm and love for it rather than for the than half a century.) money. In fact, several have incomes 4 4 I want to talk to you about some of several times as large as their salaries. the spots I think you ought to see I met an enthusiastic body of men, about fifty, full of their subject and worthy on this island which are within followers of Mr. Mather, who is one of easy reach and which I do not believe the most energetic and public-spirited any one of you has ever been to, because men I have ever come across anywhere, although I have been skirmishing around either here or across the water. here for several years I had never seen or even heard of them until some time "These men were filled with the idea ago. of getting people into the parks. One "First, I want to tell you of a meeting feature Mr. Mather had experimented I attended on the mainland. I was asked with last summer and is going ahead by Mr. Stephen Mather, who is the chief with on a larger scale this year is an in- of the National Park System, to go to terpark tour. They begin at the Rocky the convention of National Park Super- Mountain National Park, seventy miles intendents and Concessionists at Denver north of Denver. Applications are sent last November. I spent a week there, in beforehand so as to know how many 459 460 THE MID-PACIFIC to accommodate. Large seven-seat auto- all this is within seven hours' sailing mobiles are used. From the Rocky Moun- from Honolulu. tain National Park they go up through "You can land there in villages which Wyoming to the great Yellowstone have no houses except grass huts and Park, from there on across to Glacier where the steep trails are almost im- vlountain Park, which is up in Montana ; passable ; not quite impassable, either, then on out to Washington to Rainier because Alexander Hume Ford once National Park, and down to California slid down one side and up the other. And to Crater Lake, and up to Yosemite and all this within less than a day's sailing other parks adjacent to it. There is one from here. now named Roosevelt Park. From there "Then there is the Ditch Trail on they go down to the Grand Canyon of Maui which Jack London said he con- the Colorado and the numerous parks sidered the most remarkable piece of and monuments which have been laid scenery in these islands or anywhere out in Arizona, consisting of cliff dwell- else. Every mother's son and daughter ers' reservations, Indian reservations, of the Trail and Mountain Club ought petrified forests, etc. The trip takes about to go there at least once a year. six weeks. Applications, of course, are "On the round trip the steamer would put in beforehand, seats are reserved, go to Kahului, let you off to go through hotel accommodations are reserved, so the Ditch Trail and meet the steamer the that all a person has to do is to put up next day at Hana and come back. Then his money and be taken care of, really a you can get on the steamer and go to personally conducted trip. It was an im- Hawaii and put in a month there or mense success last year and all the su- any length of time available. perintendents of parks made prepara- "I believe anybody with energy and tions for it this year with immense en- gumption would support such a plan. thusiasm, indicating that a very much Probably at present there isn't money larger expedition would probably take enough in it to warrant a private or- place this year. ganization doing the work, but I think "I believe that method of procedure what should be done is to do what the can be put into operation just as well government did when we had no hotels here in Hawaii, and a great deal simpler, on the islands. There was a time for the tourists and for our own resi- when there was just one place in Hono- dents. We should be able to buy a ticket lulu where one could get lodging, and that Would take us to the several points that was the Sailors' Home, an institu- of interest on this island worth seeing tion which did not accommodate more in one to three days, then go to Molokai. than twenty-five or thirty persons. When There is magnificent scenery over there, that was full, the rest slept on the side- different from anything else on the is- walk or in private homes. At that time lands. There are precipices perhaps two the Legislature appropriated $120,000 or three thousand feet high with water and the Hawaiian Hotel, now the Army rushing over the edge of them and down and Navy Y. M. C. A., was built and into the blue ocean. There is a little is- rented to Allen Herbert, a member of land off to the windward with palm trees this organization. He ran that hotel for on it growing at right angles such as do a number of years and it was finally not exist anywhere else in the world ex- leased to several different people and cept on that particular spot. You have then found unnecessary, as there had to coast around there in a sampan. And been a number of other hotels erected. THE MID-PACIFIC 461

"I can remember the time when there islands named Bird Islands, precipitous was no steamer running between here on all sides save one place where there and Hilo. We had to take a schooner is a landing. The tops, perhaps 15o feet which took two weeks from here to Hilo. high, are one mass of nesting birds. The government bought a steamer, put There must be several thousand seagulls. it on the run for a number of years, and You can see them with the naked eye, every Legislature voted on item to pay and with a glass you can see the expres- for loss on that steamer. Finally it paid sions of their faces. It is the most inti- for itself and was sold to S. G. Wilder, mate bird life to be seen any where who organized the Wilder Steamship around this country. If you go out there Co., which later merged into the Inter- in a boat and call from a distance of sev- Island Navigation Co. eral hundred yards, the sky is simply "I believe, right here and now we black with birds. If we could get into should do something of that kind, either an automobile now we could all see those the county or territorial government, birds and get back here before dark. with organizations such as the Trail and They are within easy- reach, on the east Mountain Club chipping in. A committee side of this crater on Makapu Point. should be formed to start this round trip "Another place which I think is the of the island for tourists and residents. most beautiful tramp on this island, and Lots of us would like to go, but we do there are only six ridges which I have aot know the ropes and cannot afford not climbed over, is the Hauula Trail. to go singly, whereas an organization You can zigzag up there on a graded can cut down expenses. trail to an elevation of 2000 feet. It is "Now I want to speak of two or three such easy walking that we went up there places on this island which you probably once, my wife and the children, who were have never seen. If you go up to the 6 or 7 years old, had lunch and came Pali you will see an old crater straight back to the hotel by 3 o",cloCk in the after- out seven miles from the Pali. You can noon. You can go through a cleft in the drive up to the crater to within a ten side of the valley and come to a big minutes' walk. There is an easy horse- stream of water, the only one at that ele- back trail right into the crater and out vation on this island. It makes a good the far side. I went there seven years camping ground. There is so much ago for the first time simply on an 'ex- water around that you find yourself right ploring expedition, not knowing what in the midst of the most tropical vege- there was to see. We came to a wall tation. Jim Castle had the trail cut up of 250 feet which went down on the there in connection with the water sur- other side into the blue water of the vey. He had a building with a roof put ocean with no shoal water or reef at the up there which would accommodate a bottom. The base of the wall is solid dozen people. Whether it is there now rock straight up and down, so that or not I do not kno'w. waves break up against it forty feet high, Some years ago we made an appropri- and in the rocks all around are the nest- ation of $100 and spent $60 clearing out ing seagulls. One pair sat five or six feet two places where the falls came over the from us, utterly oblivious of our pres- path. I recommend to you most heartily ence, billing and cooing. Finally I let a that you have somebody look into that yell and at least 200 birds flew out in all trail and make that one of your expedi- directions. And what is more interest- tions. If you want to camp, you won't ing, directly across the water, not more find any more delightful place on the than a quarter of a mile, are two rocky island." 462 THE MID-PACIFIC

The fi,sh of the Philippines rival in color and form, all others in the world. Science is studying their origin and migration that they may better serve humanity as a food supply. Some early educational churches in the Philippines.

The Filipinos as Scientists

(By a Member of the Editorial Staff of the Far Eastern Review

HEN the American Government er consideration and treatment of every set itself enthusiastically to question and problem embraced in the W work to show the Filipino how task of elevating the Filipino and equip- to improve himself and his country, ping him to become prosperous, self- neither money nor men were spared to governing, and independent, according to make the lesson a telling and effective modern standards and American lights one. Scientists and others qualified to and ideals. lead the native along the road of mod- Education along every possible line ern progress were selected and des- was liberally provided, the country was patched to Manila, without thought of opened up by roads and railways, mar- cost, to lay plans effectively to impart kets were developed, natural resources the requisite knowledge. What Ameri- were investigated by specialists, and pro- ca had learned from experience in the vision was made to aid everyone engaged development of the great spaces of her in exploiting those resources to under- own territory, plus what scientific devel- stand the nature of their task, to improve opment the world over had taught, was their methods and enhance the value of lavishly applied in the Philippines. Or- their product, and in general to develop ganizations were created to handle vari- the highest possible efficiency. ous aspects of development, and in due No one can gainsay the fact that Amer- course departments existed for the prop- ican money and enterprise have done ex-

463 THE MID-PACIFIC traordinary things to push the Filipino Reflection is prompted by the fear that up the commercial, industrial, social, is voiced in the Philippines by foreigners and political ladder. Conditions in the that opportunity for expanding trade Philippine Islands today are not to be and commerce will be reduced to a min- compared with what they were when the imum; by the evidence that is provided guns of Dewey blazed across Manila in the case of the Bureau of Science, Bay and the fleet of the Spaniards went where the pruning knife is already being down with bubble and groan off the applied and the efficiency of that bureau Cavite shore. Now he can, if he likes, is being threatened. This is a specific bask amid every advantage and blessing case which is worthy of particular men- that modern science can invoke, and, in tion, because the Bureau of Science is Manila and big cities, at all events, he probably the most important organiza- may "jazz" to his heart's content for tion set up in the Philippine Islands. It recreation and pull chilled concoctions has unquestionably done more for the through straws at elaborate soda-foun- Philippines than any other Department, tains for refreshment. not only in the way of investigating and He has learned the value and uses of making known the natural resources of good city government, of roads, and ar- the islands and inspiring their exploita- tesian wells, and hygiene, and innum- tion systematically and scientifically, but erable aids to a better life—as well as in making known the value of Philippine the importance of a home run in base products to the outside world. If any ball and a knock-out in boxing. Department in the Islands should be kept He can fill his head according to the at its highest pitch it is the Bureau of best educational curricula, and cover his Science, yet its usefulness is being di- form with Fifth Avenue fashion in sar- minished at a time when no effort should torial adornment—and he has imbibed to be spared to extend its operations. the full each and all of the sublime de- In the possession of such a Bureau the lights of joy riding in, motor cars on Philippines almost stand alone, for there rosy evenings over tarred highways tra- work which other Governments have versing seducive tropical scenery. done by different departments is cen- He is today the possessor of opportu- tralised. Nor can the Philippines do nities such as he never dreamed of in without the services of the Bureau if they the old Spanish times, and he is on the are to develop as they should along san- eve of securing political emancipation itary, industrial and economic lines. which he has long cherished but which While, monumental work has been he certainly would never have attained achieved in overcoming some tropical dis- in so short a time if it had not been for eases there are still many which should American enthusiasm and idealism and be thoroughly investigated with the ob- altruism. . ject of discovering remedies. Industries The question is, What will the Filipino abound which could be developed from do with the powers which self-govern- their primitive stages, and there are abun- ment will place in his hands? dant sources of wealth to be opened up On every hand there is striking evi- and scientifically examined. An enormous dence of the practical work that has been amount of bacteriological work in the done. In the varied improvements to be shape of examinations of waters and seen in the Islands America has erected foods, routine microscopical examina- herself a monument and has provided the tions of blood, etc., is continually being Filipinos with substantial proof of gen- done. The microscopical work is per- erous guardianship as well as durable foundations upon which to develop na- formed for the purpose of the early tional greatness and economic prosperity. identification of infectious diseases, THE MID-PACIFIC 465 466 THE MID-PACIFIC such as cholera, bubonic plague, typhoid ricultural crops, etc. The silk worm has fever, leprosy, tuberculosis, malaria, been introduced into the Islands by she worms, genito-urinary diseases, etc. The Bureau of Science, which supplies eggs entire islands are dependent upon the se- and instructions to those who wish to rum laboratory of the Bureau of Science produce silk. The Bureau has done all for the supply of serum and of vaccine that the limited personnel would permit virus. Enough vaccine virus is produced to stimulate the economic fisheries in- annually to vaccinate two million people dustries. Deep sea fishing has been de- against smallpox. A large amount of veloped by improving methods of cap- other work is done on dysenteries, the ture and marketing and means for dry- activity of drugs and chemicals as a ba- ing, salting and canning surplus stock. sis for the treatment of various diseases, In the inorganic laboratories innum- sanitary surveys, investigation for pa- erable tests are made annually of ce- tho-genic organisms and insects con- ment, reinforcing iron, steel, rope, wire, cerned in the transmission of diseases. tires, road material, cement pipes, con- The scientists have solved the problems crete, mortar, building blocks, bricks, of a large number of tropical diseases piles, tiles, stones, cloth, and other simi: with regard to the causes, prevention lar materials. Analyses are made of and treatment that have baffled special- clays, rocks, minerals, soils, fertilizers, ists all over the world for many years. iron and steel, paints, pigments, metals All this work is ultimately to assist health and alloys, mixed paints, electric batter- conditions in the Philippine Islands, ies, crude 'chemicals, etc., for the various while the biological work has been a branches of the government, provinces, large factor in successfully combating municipalities, and the United States epidemic and other diseases in the Is- Army, for private parties, and for gen- lands. eral purposes. The assaying of ores is The study of medicinal and agricul- also carried on. The standardization of tural plants involves general work on weights and measures is a regular duty all phases of Philippine botany. Philip- of the Bureau. The organic chemists pine forests contain many species of have carried on a large amount of re- plants that produce fibres, timbers, gums, search work on beri-beri and its preven- resins, dyes, etc., of economic value. The tion and cure; and on the composition botanical names of these and detailed in- and characteristics of Philippine fruits, formation as to their soil and moisture copra production, papaya gum, perfumes requirements, rates of growth, distribu- and essential oils from native plants, etc. tion, etc., are needed in order that the Chemical analyses of paper, textiles, oils, greatest use can be made of them. The soaps, etc., are. performed. The Bu- task of assembling material to represent reau's sugar laboratory at Iloilo is en- practically a complete flora of the archi- gaged in umpire polarisations of sugar pelago is an enormous one, and the need and in the instruction of planters as to of continued exploration is urgent. The the best methods of cutting cane, sugar study of fungi is an extremely impor- boiling, operating mills, etc. tant branch of Philippine botany, while The larger part of the time of the ge- economic work in entomology involves ologists of the Bureau has been devoted the control of flies, mosquitoes, and other to engineering geology, economic geol- insects that are known to be carriers of ogy of metallic and non-metallic min- disease and of the many species of in- erals, geologic reconnaissance and topog- sects injurious to forests, fruit trees, ag- raphy, and geology mapping. The geol- THE MID-PACIFIC 467

ogy, field relations, and economic aspects such a great field of endeavor as the of coal, asbestos, gold, sulphur, petrole- Philippines of the vital necessity of main- um, artesian water, road metal, iron ore, taining the Bureau at fullest efficiency. building stone, soils, raw minerals for A visit to the Bureau itself impresses one clay products, Portland and natural ce- more strongly than ever just how great ment, and lime have been studied. its relationship is to proper Philippine de- The Bureau has determined the prop- velopment. While the 1918 report of the erties and some of the uses of oils pro- Director mentions regretfully the short- duced from lumbang, kapok, cashew, cas- age of efficient technical personnel, the tor bean, tree-cotton seed, physic nut, fact remains that the different depart- pili, calumpang, and Cato. It has shown ments of the Bureau have so far been conclusively that papaya gum made in kept up in a highly creditable manner. the Philippines is equal, if not superior, That this is due in large manner to the both regarding color and activity, to any personal enthusiasm of the Director, Dr. now in the world's market. The suit- Alvin J. Cox, who, in the report, notifies ability of waste from abaca, or Ma- his retirement from the services, goes al- nila hemp, cogon grass, and various oth- most without saying, In Dr. Cox the er substances, including bamboo, for pa- Philippines Government had a scientist per pulp has also been demonstrated. whose heart was in his work, whose mind In general the Bureau endeavors to be was constantly absorbed in the economic of the greatest assistance to manufactur- and sanitary problems of the Islands, ers, producers, miners, planters and pub- whose energies were devoted to the ad- lic health workers by making reports and vancement of the Philippines with a sin- giving expert advice on crops, soils, fer- gleness of purpose which was remarka- tilizers, plant diseases, insect pests, min- ble. To him, more than to anyone else, ing, etc., and in performing analyses and the success of the Bureau during recent examinations of sugar, soils, fertilizers, years is attributable, and why the Gov- waters, coal, metals and alloys, gums, re- ernment would even contemplate allow- sins, minerals, cement, -food products, bi- ing such a man to leave its service is be- ological and pathological specimens for yond understanding. So great has the practitioners and for the various work been which Dr. Cox has done in branches of the government, of other making the products of the Philippines materials of agricultural, industrial, and known to the world, so exhaustive have medical use and interest. his scientific researches been, so valuable The work of the Bureau has not and popular his publications, that his stopped with the examinations mentioned mere continued presence in the Islands, above. It has published extremely val- even if he never again worked in his lab- uable bulletins on all subjects, those on oratory, would be of immense value to the scope of the commercial utilization of the Government in the introduction of Philippine economic products being es- capital for economic development. Dr. pecially important, and invaluable to in- Cox went to the Philippines in 1906 and vestors in the Philippines and to others became Director of the Bureau in 1914, directly or indirectly interested in the after serving as Acting Director from Islands. 1912, and if the Filipinos have any sense This glance at the scope and impor- they will not now allow him to retire. He tance of the work undertaken and ac- is worth too much to them as an asset. complished by the Bureau .should be suf- But if he is permitted to go back to his ficient to convince anyone interested in own country, for which no doubt he 468 THE MID-PACIFIC thirsts, then his recommendations con- an entomologist to carry on work in- cerning the Bureau should be carried out volving the co-operation betWeen bacte- in their entirety. In his 1918 report he riologists, marine biologists, and others ; concludes as follows :— the technical education of Filipinos in the "The Bureau of Science is an efficient United States ; the utilization of powder- working organization and should be ed coal for fuel ; the extension of the maintained so. To do this the Bureau work of the Iloilo sugar laboratory ; ad- must have efficient technical personnel; ditional chemists and pharmacists for the and, in order to retain that which it now investigation of promising medicinal and has, and to secure additional men, recog- poisonous plants that have not as yet nition must be given in the higher posi- been investigated ; a field survey of Phil- tions. The Bureau of Science needs ad- ippine water supplies ; a soil survey ; en- ditional specialists in all its branches, es- largement of the plant for the prepara- pecially in geology and industrial chem- tion of extract of tikitiki for the treat- istry, to care for the rapidly developing ment of infantile beri-beri ; investigation mineral and economic industries. With- of the subject of animal diseases and in- out the employment of these there is sects injurious to agricultural products ; grave danger that the development by the provision of demonstrators for prop- the Government of such industries in the aganda work, etc. There is a wealth in Philippine Islands will be discredited if the Philippine Islands that remains un- not an entire failure. Much important touched due primarily to inadequate in- constructive work in the Bureau of Sci- vestigation. Unless work along the. lines ence that should have been done has re- indicated is done much valuable work al- mained undone for lack of personnel, ready completed by the Bureau will be- and there is the keenest need for extend- come ineffective. Successful economic ing economic research in every line. development of the Philippines must be "With regard to the specific needs of preceded by adequate research, and eco- the Bureau of Science, many of those nomic independence must 'precede suc- I have pointed out in former reports have cessful political independence." not yet been realized, but the necessity is Here, then, is a direct chance for the as keen as ever. I desire especially to Filipinos to give evidence of their ulti - call attention to my former requests for mate intentions after self-government is funds for a commercial marine and fresh- vouch-safed them. Already they are in water products (fisheries) laboratory, the position to enhance the importance of survey, and hatchery ; the appointment of the Bureau of Science or cripple it.

Guides to the Volcano on Tanna Island.

The Great Volcano on Tanna By Emma H. Adams.

HE distinguishing feature of the and adds immensely to its explosive New Hebrides group is its grand power, shaking Tanna mightily. Tvolcanoes. Captain Cook discov- According to the native faith, a ered the island of Tanna in 1777. He mighty demon, steadfastly hostile to found the volcano of Yasur—the native mankind, inhabits the red-hot cavern, name—in a state of remarkable activity. and utters the appalling roars which He described it as "giving out a great come from the crater. Someone affirms light and throwing up large stones at that when the mountain is in a state of regular intervals of five or six minutes, repose for some time, earthquake shocks with a noise that could be heard forty occur in New Caledonia, a large island miles away." From the visit of the fa- under French domination, lying some mous navigator to this day the huge three hundred miles southwest of Tan- furnace has kept up its fires. It has its na. Since earthquakes are much more seasons of comparative quiet, and its destructive than eruptions from the vol- times of great violence, the latter oc- cano, the Tannese are very glad to wit- curring during heavy rains. The wa- ness its discharges of steam and hot ter then pours into its glowing heart, stones. where it is rapidly converted into steam, Like all volcanoes, Yasur is variable 469 470 THE MID- PACIFIC in its action. A glance at its summit, have -a strong fear of the demon who now, discovers a mere haze of steam dwells in the crater of Yasur. arising. An hour hence a dense cloud Formerly there was some trade in of smoke may be climbing toward the the sulphur emitted by the volcano, sky. Before night a thick black stream which sold at about four dollars per ton. of dark dust will flow to sea with the But the earthquake of 1878 destroyed wind. At midnight explosion may suc- the road leading to the mountain, ren- ceed explosion, attended by a magnifi- dering transportation of the mineral cent display of fire-works, hot lava, and very difficult. The traffic was therefore fiery stones, mounting high into the abandoned. air, only to drop again into the agitated Our guide, Harry, walked behind. We interior. It is said that the explosions skirted the bright bay for some time. appear to be most violent at high tide. On the east side were the boiling springs This has led to the surmise that through under the rocks upheaved by the great crevices in the mountain and in caves earthquake. At high tide these were along the shore the sea water finds its covered, but at low water they bubbled way to the crater, is quickly converted up vigorously. The water was hot into steam, and produces a great com- enough to burn my hands, to boil yams, motion. or to scald pigs. When the tide simply Indeed, Yasur is believed to extend covered them, the temperature was de- lightful. That was the time for the under-ground to the sea, since hot maids and matrons to assemble there to springs exist along the shore for a long bathe and to chatter. distance, and from them to the crater At the extreme end of the bay we lines of hot steam and smoke, freighted crossed a broad stretch of sandy beach, with sulphur, escape through fissures which in Captain Cook's day formed the in the scorched ground. Large deposits bottom of the harbor and held his an- of this mineral are carried to the leeward chor. The earthquake had converted it of these vents by the wind. In time the into a series of eligible water frontages, overflows of lava from Yasur become but with no guaranteed lease from Ya- extremely fertile. Yams raised upon sur. Once it was but a pleasant walk them are the finest in the Pacific. This to the summit, which is scarcely seven accounts in part for the multitude of hundred feet high. But now the road yam gardens in its neighborhood. The is the worst imaginable, even had we not people are tempted to plant where the prolonged the agony by losing our way. largest harvest can be reaped. It is a For two hours we mounted up through rash step, however, for which Yasur the thicket, along a path just wide does not always punish lightly. The enough for one person. The air was heavy showers of hot dust from its top very hot and close. Once only after often ruin the crops for miles around. leaving the beach did we obtain a view It matters not with what care they have of the sea, or inhale a breath of salt air. been cultivated, or how great is the The soil was light and yielding, and promise of income, suddenly there is made our progress the more fatiguing. just the right change of wind, and the We passed many garden patches, but parching breath of Yasur kills them. never caught a view of the natives. Thus the result of months of labor is Where were the villages at which we destroyed. The next year the planters had been promised escorts? Where will live on cocoanuts. The Tannese were the green cocoanuts which were to• THE MID -PACIFIC 471

quench my thirst? I verily believe Har- Harry shouted until he was hoarse. At ry, our leprous guide, led us by out-of- last came a faint reply.. Coming nearer the-way paths, that he himself might now, the voice proved to be that of "a have all the reward. Suddenly he stopped naked little native"—a youngster, who and confessed he had lost the way. A was not particularly frightened, and little rough language brought out the who at once consented to guide us to the fact that he had never before been over foot of Yasur. He was nicely behaved. the road. I wondered what would be I could not help thinking his manners his market value in pigs, should I take were far superior to those of some white his life. boys 'who might have been picked up in On he went, making a long detour, England or in the Colonies, to escort a when, from a cleared space—all sulphur party of foreigners of whose language and steam—we discovered a few houses he knew not a word. Yet we call him on the cliff above. We climbed thither a heathen. He was a possible cannibal. by steps cut in the rocks, and I be- On now, through more deserted vil- gan to understand why the natives lived lages, the ground cracking, the steam in homes so difficult of access. They bursting out freshly and scalding all the could be easily defended in attacks by vegetation, we passed into a deep dell other tribes. They were the habitations which Yasur had overlooked. High of the bushmen, and, if possible, were banyan trees overshadowed us. There more wretched than the dwellings of the were brilliant crotons and rare ferns in salt-water tribes. In the three villages perfection. Lizards, mere streaks of we passed there was not a soul at home, shining color, darted across our path. so we could fully inspect them. Harry Gorgeous butterflies circled above our explained the conundrum by saying it heads. In a few moments it was all was the time of yam planting, and that over. Desolation followed. All life all the men who were not fighting in was blighted. The bones of a dead pig the war then in progress, were with the bleached on a bed of sulphur. The women and children at the gardens spring of water beside the path was nearer the salt water. poisonous. All nature fought life. Noth- Just where we were nothing seemed ing lived there but a tiny flower, as to grow to maturity. In view of that great a rarity in such a spot as the lit- Harry volunteered: "Bad fellow, Ya- tle idelweiss growing amid Alpine sur. Make him no good yam, no good snows. nut." A few tall, weedy cocoanuts stood We had passed several old craters. near, but when my rifle brought a green The ground beneath our feet became nut to the ground, it smashed utterly, hollow. There was yet a half mile of being very soft. We were suffering climbing. The measure of my dis- from thirst. At last Gottfrey found a satisfaction was full. All in all, it nut containing a gill of water. We was an uninteresting jaunt. On we shared it between us. stumbled, with the roar of Yasur, more Having gone so far astray in our reck- and more threatening, ringing in our oning, the hills on which we stood were ears. Ashes fell all around us. When higher than the volcano, and we had to half-way up the cone, both natives be guided by its continuous roar. On stopped and would go no further. They we went, up and down. Hot steam rose would not even speak. Harry said, under our feet from great fissures in "No good, talk here." Both glanced the ground. In sore need of a guide, furtively around as if expecting to see 472 THE MID- PACIFIC evil spirits spring upon the slope. We is said to overflow through openings in left them, and .they retreated to a res- the volcano, and then the explosions in- pectful distance. crease. The water of this lake is unfit to At last we were on the summit of drink, and the superstitious natives say Yasur. Before us were the two craters. it is the abode of great black demons, Hundreds of feet below seethed the mol- who eat men. Undoubtedly the objects ten lava. Bright flames shed a frightful seen were enormous eels, such as fre- glare on the steam and smoke which filled quent the lakes of New Zealand. The the cavern. The roar was perpetual, and lake on Tanna is certainly worth a visit. the explosions were like salvos of artil- Upon re-entering the path to the village lery. The ground quivered. Away to lee- which was the home of our little guide, ward was a pillar of smoke, a shower of we dismissed him with a reward, to ap- ashes and small stones. I did not go to pease his parents for his absence from the edge of the crater and drop a stone the evening meal. I was very much in. The ground crumbling beneath our pleased with the lad. feet showed us our danger, if too fool- The homeward walk to Port Resolution hardy. The air was fiery ; we were cov- will ever remain in my mind as a hideous ered with burning dust. To breathe dream. Nono put us on a track which seemed to scorch our lungs. shortened our course by a mile or two. I tried to form some idea of the extent but even that was far too long. The full of Yasur, but it was impossible to see to moon shone after nightfall, yet the wood- the other side, and impossible to see to ed paths were dark and gloomy. Some- the bottom. To try to walk around it times its bright beams cast weird shadows would have been highly dangerous. The across the path we stumbled along. The force overshadowing every other was that volcano roared and groaned louder than of steam. Lumps of red-hot scoria were ever. Harry kept close to my side, as if blown to leeward, but the greater propor- for protection from the evil beings he tion of rocks and stones simply fell back supposed to be abroad at night. Indeed, into the lava, which then boiled up like in the lonely thicket, in the strange shad- molten iron in a blast furnace. ows, in the loud explosions at the volcano, If the walk to the top of Yasur was and in the glare which its flames threw not the most inviting, the view from its athwart the sky, there was enough to im- summit was lovely. The scene suggests press the native mind. At last we reached that in a far past day the volcano was Port Resolution, and took a long draught separated from the mainland. A large of pure spring water, which was like nec- lake in the center of the plain below con- tar to our throats, parched by the hot firms the idea. In times of flood this lake dust of Yasur. The Climate of Hawaii By LAWRENCE HITE DAINGERFIELD, Meteorologist.

HE eight main islands of the twelve or more minor islands, some of Hawaiian group lie between which are mere reefs or shoals, extends T 154° 47' west of Greenwich, at in the form of a crescent through about the easternmost point of Hawaii, and 1800 statute miles. In general, the islands 160° 16' on the west coast of Niihau, consist of the remnants of exposed, lofty while the latitude of 18° 56' north summits of a vast submarine range of bounds Hawaii on the south at Ka mountains and are volcanic in origin. Iae point and the most northerly part of The main islands, beginning at the Kauai at Pug Poa point reaches 22° 14' southeast, are Hawaii, the largest, with north latitude. These islands, conse- an area of 4015 square miles, and an ex- quently, lie due south of the Alaska Pe- treme altitude on Mauna Kea (White ninsula and directly west of Yucatan; Mountain) of 13,825 feet; Kahoolawe, all lie within the tropics. Honolulu, the 69 square miles, and 1472-foot elevation capitol, is 2100 miles from San Fran- at Moaulu Hill; Maui, 728 square miles, cisco and 4665 miles from Panama, by and 10,350-foot elevation at the loftiest great circle routes. A series of minor point of Haleakala Crater ; Lanai, 139 islands, lying to the northwest of Kauai square miles, and highest altitude of to Ocean and Midway islands, terminate 3400 feet; Molokai, 261 square miles, at longitude 178° 30' west and near 29° and 4958--foot altitude at Komokoa ; north; the Midway island postoffice is Oahu, 598 square miles, and 4030-foot about 140o statute miles from Honolulu, altitude at crest of Kaala, Waianae but the whole Hawaiian archipelago, in- range ; Kauai, 547 square miles, and cluding the eight major islands and the 5170-foot elevation at summit of Waia- 473 474 THE MID-PACIFIC leale : Niihau, 97 square miles, and an ex- of the tenacious tropical vegetation treme elevation of 1300 feet. The minor which came to cover the scars of nature. islands, lying to the northwest of the Great cliffs, locally called palis, have main group, consist of Nihoa or Bird been carved from the rain-swept, wind- Island, Necker Island, French Frigate ward sides of Oahu and Molokai, and Brooks Shoals, Gardiner Island, cutting sheer the mountain barriers from Dowsett's and Maro Reefs. Laysan and one to four thousand feet. Perhaps the Lisianski islands, Pearl and Hermes best known of these palis is found at Reefs. Bunker, Midway and Ocean Is- the head of Nuuanu Valley, Oahu, lands. These minor islands abound in famed as the point from which the war- coral reefs and are generally of low alti- riors of the Oahu king were driven to tude, although Nihoa or Bird Island their destruction in 1795 by the army rises 903 feet above the sea. of Kamehameha, the Great. The ocean The eight principal land bodies were surrounding this mountainous group of all inhabited when first visited by the islands is known to drop rapidly to great early haole explorers, and agriculture depths, reaching an abyss of nearly four and fishing were largely practiced. It is miles within 3o to 5o miles from the difficult to say when the first of the orig- shore lines ; the surrounding sea bed for inal settlers came to the islands, but hundreds of miles around these abrupt many centuries no doubt elapsed between depths is only moderately diversified. their arrival and the coming of the Pa- Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, if meas- cific voyager. Judging by the lack of tra- ured from these dark valleys, lift their summits to heights of over 30,000 feet. dition, the volcanic craters abounding Mauna Loa, which emits vast quantities from Hawaii to Kauai were all extinct of lava at intervals of about nine years, before the coming of the Hawaiians,with is said to possess by far the greatest mass the exception of Hualalai, Mauna Loa of any active volcanic mountain in the (Great Mountain) and Kilauea, on Ha- world, built by her eruptive deposits waii, and possibly Haleakala (House of through the centuries, known as either the Sun), on Maui. Advancing north- "AA," rough lava, or "pahoehoe," westward through West Maui, Lanai, smooth lava. Professor T. A. Jaggar, Molokai, Oahu and Kauai, we• find geo- Jr., in speaking of Mauna Loa and logic reasons for believing that the vol- Kilauea, makes the following interesting canic fires burned out at an increasingly statement : early date. Great gulches have been "The confirmation of expectations carved in the sides of the volcanic masses based on a working theory of relation- and long dead craters by the eroding tor- ship between Mauna Loa and Kilauea, rents, producing canyons vying in color which the writer has from time to time and magnitude with the best of their expressed and published, is very strik- kind throughout the world. The finest ing. The lava column is believed to be examples of erosion are found perhaps a stiff subterraneous body, squeezed up- in Waimea and Olokele canyons of ward by terrestial stresses through the Kauai, and Iao of West Maui, although ages, and charged with heating gases, other gulches, such as Honokane and which effervesce and react most vio- Waipio, carved from the windward side lently when the upward squeeze is re- of the Kohala hills of Hawaii, are little lieved. Such effervescence generates if' any less typical of the power of ero- liquid lava. The vents in Mauna Loa sion. The disintegration of the volcanic and Kilauea are believed to alternate in piles and lava fields was the forerunner their action, 1903-07 producing Mauna THE MID -PACIFIC 475

Loa flow, 1908-12 intense Kilauea ac- duction of precipitation over the eastern tivity, 1914-16 Mauna Loa flow, and or windward slopes of the several is- now 1917-19 Kilauea overflow. Each lands. eruption begins with the rise of the stiff The leeward slopes generally show a lava column and culminates with release sudden decline in rainfall as compared of pressure and effervescence of liquid with the windward, this condition being lava." well demonstrated in the case of Mt. There are many small streams Waialeale, central Kauai, where the throughout the islands, and a few rainfall reaches an annual amount of the larger streams are dignified of approximately 476 inches near by the title of rivers, notably Hanalei the summit at an altitude of 5075 River in northern Kauai. All of the feet, while at Waiawa, about 15 miles streams are precipitous, especially in their southwestward and consequently lee- upper teaches, of limited length and ward, at an altitude of 35 feet, ha's a nor- drainage area, and, while subject to sud- mal annual rainfall of only 22.21 inches. den and extensive rises in consequence An almost equally startling contrast is of the heavy mountain rains, generally shown in West Maui, between Puu Ku- carry little water and regain their low- kui (upper) 5000 feet altitude and nor- water stages quickly after the passing mal annual rainfall of 370.07 inches, and of the floods. Many of the more minor Camp No. 7, about eight and one-half streams become merely dry gulches in miles southeastward, altitude 90 feet, times of drought. Owing to the volcanic and 15.66 inches normal annual precipi- composition of the islands, the soil is of taion ; or between Nahiku (mauka), great porosity, thus admitting large windward slope of Haleakala, East quantities of water to underground stor- Maui, altitude 1600 feet, annual rainfall age, available later through springs and 300 inches, and Waiopae ranch, leeward artesian wells, and thus used in the irri- of Haleakala, about 14 miles southwest gation of the crops. Stream flow and of Nahiku (mauka), at an altitude of underground water will be found more 700 feet, with norinal annual rainfall of completely considered in later pages of 25.39 inches. this report through the courtesy of the In North Kohala district, Hawaii, a Hydrographic Branch of the U. S. Geo- striking contrast in mean annual rain- logical Survey. fall is found between Awini, windward CLIMATIC CHARACTERISTICS. of Kohala mountains, altitude 2100 feet, The close relationship existing between with 167.68 inches, and Mahukona, lee- the highly diversified and mountainous ward about nine miles, altitude 11 feet, surfaces of the several islands of the sec- with 16.60 inches. The most striking tion, and the resulting climate, renders contrast in rainfall extremes is found, the study of the Hawaiian volcanoes, however, in comparing the greatest an- both living and extinct, interesting and nual amount ever recorded in the entire important. In fact, it is difficult to study section, namely 562.00 inches at Puu Ku- the climatology of the Hawaiian group kui (upper), west Maui (elevation 5000 without giving some consideration to feet), in 1918, with the least ever record- the volcanic origin of the islands. The ed, namely, 2.46 inches, at Camp No. 7, projection of the volcanic piles far up (Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Co.),West into the prevailing trade winds is a well Maui (elevation 90 feet), in 1912, only recognized dominant factor in the pro- eight and one-half miles from Puu Ku- 476 THE MID-PACIFIC kui (upper) and almost due southeast Kona and the southern part of North in the Maui isthmus dry belt. Kona, thus favoring these districts with Elevation is not always a criterion of a moderate and highly equitable distri- increased precipitation. This is well illus- bution of rainfall. The warmer months —April to October—receive the heaviest trated in comparing Hakalau (mauka), precipitation in the Kona district, while windward of Mauna Kea, Hawaii, alti- the contrary is true of the remainder of tude 1200 feet and mean annual rainfall of 273.71 inches, and Humuula, about 25 Hawaii ; this is the result, no doubt, of miles distant, on the southern slope of the stronger and more persistent sea Mauna Kea, altitude 6685 feet and an- breeze of summer. nual rainfall of 32.28 inches. Humuula There is a storm, which is typically is somewhat sheltered by the projecting and peculiarly Hawaiian, known as shoulder of Mauna Kea, however, which the "kona storm." It visits the has some influence in cutting of the islands during the cooler months rain, as shown by comparing this station of the year, being heralded by with Puu Oo, a few miles to the east- strong and persistent southerly winds ; ward at an altitude of 6450 feet and a most of the excessive precipitation on mean annual rainfall of ioi.6o inches; the leeward side of the islands is gauged this latter station is truly on the wind- during the presence of such a storm. The ward slope, however, and still has less marked Kona storm of March 19-20, than 4o per cent of the precipitation oc- 1917, produced a 24-hour rainfall of curring at Hakalau (mauka). 13.52 inches at Honolulu, a record for Only two of the islands of the this station and island. This storm was group appear to have sufficient land general and excessive over Hawaii on mass to materially alter the persistent the 18th-19th and Oahu and Kauai on trade wnd, namely, Hawaii and East the 19th-2oth. The heaviest known 24- hour rainfall ever recorded on the Ha- Maui. Southwesterly winds prevail throughout the year up the west slope of waiian islands occurred during the gen- eral Kona storm of February 18-21, Haleakala, Maui, and •over much of the 1918 ; the remarkable amount of 31.95 North and South Kona districts of Ha- waii, embracing the westward slopes of inches was gauged on the loth of Feb- Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa and all of ruary at Honomu, Hawaii, followed the the volcanic mountain of Haulalai. next day by 11.84 inches. Judging from their geographical loca- The many local influences, resulting tion alone, and comparing them with from the size, shape and trend of like locations on Kauai, East Maui, and the individual islands, their moun- Oahu, the Kona districts should be the tains of widely varying elevations, dryest of all the islands. The high moun- nearness or relative remoteness from the tains and relatively greater land area sea, their canyons, plateaus, plains, their lying between the western Hawaiian abrupt palis, rising from valleys or the coast and the rain-bearing winds sweep- sea, in conjunction with the prevailing ing up the slopes of the Hamakua and trade wind, or, as in the case of the Kona Hilo districts might well be expected to districts of Hawaii, the dominant south- render the Kona districts the most arid . westerly wind, all combine to compli- of all throughout the islands. Fortunately cate the study of Hawaiian climatology, the southwesterly winds bring the mois- especially rainfall. ture from the sea up the slopes of South (TO BE CONTINUED) Entering the Golden Gate; the Cliff House. San Francisco.

Early Recollections of San Francisco

(By Raphael Weill.)

N being asked to write down some of Havre. It would be impossible for my recollections of the early days me to write of the many emotions, I of San Francisco I feel somewhat mixed indeed, which filled me as I as though I were a prehistoric figure stepped on board the American sailing recounting tales of a prehistoric time. vessel "Connecticut" bound for New It is a long time ago since I first set York. We were at sea 33 days before foot here measured by the standard of we arrived in port. the ordinary period of life allotted to A brief period of time in New York, man, and, yet, it seems but yesterday and then I set my face toward San as I review many of the scenes and Francisco, the ultimate goal I had recall the faces of those who found promised to myself in making up my the joy of life in this blessed city by mind to leave France for America. the Pacific. It was on the "George Law" that It seems but yesterday (it was in I took passage for the Isthmus. This 1853) that I left Paris en route to the was before the Panama railroad was wonderful New World by way of built, and so we crossed the then dis-

477 478 THE MID-PACIFIC ease-infected neck of land by rowboats with the years. It is the lovelist down the Chagres river and later place in the world, for unto it has overland on mule back until we arrived been given God's own climate. in Panama. I have watched it grow from a little The "Golden Gate" was the vessel I ram-shackle city into the Empress of boarded for San Francisco from Pan- The Far West, and what it has done ama. "Golden Gate"—as a youngster thus far only is the beginning of the that name had set me to dreaming majestic things that are to be. dreams. To me it had meant the far San Francisco and I have grown up away gateway I must reach in order together, yet San Francisco ever is that I might have the physical realiza- virile and young, and I think I have tion of the castles I had been building. absorbed that quality from her, for I One of my fellow passengers on that have found that it is not the years; trip was William Ingraham Kip, who but the way a man thinks and lives— became the first Episcopal bishop to thinking and living aright—is the California. Bishop Nichols is his suc- nearest approach we have to the myth- cessor—there have been only two, not ical fountain of youth sought by Ponce a formidable list for the student of de Leon. church history to memorize. Also we It was in 1855 that I entered the had with us a group of men from Phil- house of Davidson and Lane. It had adelphia. They had come from the a frontage of 20 feet on Sacramento United States mint in that city to open street, and it went back forty feet the San Francisco mint which dates from the front door. I was the only from that time. hired employee. On our way up, the "Golden Gate" I have been with that firm ever went ashore, so I experienced ship- since, for the White House of today is wreck on my journey. But this is the butterfly that has emerged from not a story of adventure, so I simply the little chrysalis that I found in 1855. will say we were transferred to a small First Mr. Lane retired and I was taken coastwise vessel which brought us to in as a partner and the firm became San Francisco. known as J. W. Davidson & Co. When San Francisco at that time was a Mr. Davidson withdrew the name again comparatively lively little city of about was changed to Raphael Weill & Co. 40,000 inhabitants. I remained only And so you see that I have been go- a few days in the city at that time ing along with my hand in the warm for I went down to Los Angeles. and affectionate clasp of the hand of Puebla of Los Angeles, as it then San Francisco. That is why I feel I was known by the natives, boasted a am a part of San Francisco and, just population of about 3,000 persons; the so surely, is San Francisco a part of majority of whom were the natives of me. Mexican extraction. Here it was that San Francisco always has known how. I met for the first time, John Downey, Former President William Howard Taft who subsequently became Governor of merely found the epigrammatic word- California. ing which we required as our motto. In 1855 I returned to San Francisco. Always San Francisco has had the From that time to this San Francisco best of everything. Even in the days has been my home, the place I have when gambling was wide open in the learned to love, where my warm and city and men and women found their enduring friendships have been formed chief nightly diversion in risking their THE MID-PACIFIC 479

IN

Old an Francisco is changing. In Golden Gate Park there is a new Japanese Garden as real in beauty and daintiness as any in Japan itself.

'*e 480 THE MID-PACIFIC money on games of chance, the best the best of the boys of the present day talent of the theatrical world of that day for the reason that there were on street and generation was ours to see and hear. cars and we had plenty of time for con- De Forrest, Booth, Keene, the minstrels verse as we were seeing the girls home. Backus and Birth, Lotta, are only a few It is a great satisfaction to me that I was of the scores of others who came to San a member of the Vigilantes which was Francisco—a mighty long trip in those organized in San Francisco to protect its days—because they knew that San Fran- citizens against the lawless which were cisco knew how to appreciate and to do. in control in those days. To the Vigi- Lotta Crabtree I knew when she was lantes must be given the credit for bring- playing at the Bella Union with the fa- ing law out of lawlessness and order mous Joe Murphy. The Metropolitan out of disorder. It took San Francisco Theater then was the principal playhouse out of chaos and gave her a regular city of the city. In those days when I went government in which she could take a into a theater I knew practically every measure of pride. The Vigilantes were man and woman in it. We were a great the precursors of good government in family. San Francisco and laid the foundation for at least half decenCy. You can't get to know people as well While San Francisco, on its physical standing up in a crowded street car hang- side, is a new city with but few of the old ing on to a strap as you can walking landmarks of the yesteryear remaining, down to business with them in the morn- it has remained at heart and in spirit very ing and returning with them in the same much like the old San Francisco which way after the day's work was done. That took me so kindly to its arms nearly three was what we did in the days of the old score and ten years ago. San Francisco, for there were no street cars, no tramways. Just one single line San Francisco, at any time, is the of omnibuses that ran when the drivers cheapest place in the world I know of in most felt like it plied between Portsmouth which to live. It was cheaper here in Square and the Mission. 1855. Prices have gone up tremendously since then all over the world, but San We were very proud then of the only Francisco still holds its figures a little steam railroad that ran into San Fran- under those which obtain elsewhere. cisco. It started from the corner of Front and California streets and ran out to the This is because we are a great produc- Willows, a beautiful public garden set ing State. We do not have to go out into out in the Mission district. the world and buy what we need. We can grow it or make it right here at home, Of course, we boys used to take our and we can both grow and make better girls out to dinners and suppers just as things than they can be grown or made is done in the present day and generation and I don't think the fellows of today anywhere else. "had it on us any," as we say, in the mat- Unlike our brothers and sisters of oth- ter of "knowing how." The favorite er States we are not obliged to put in a place in the old days for these dinners heavy store of coal against the hard, cold was a restaurant run by a Frenchman winters. By the same token, our dealings named Blaize, on the shores of Lake with the iceman in the summer time are Merritt. I don't know but what we had negligible.

The PAN—PACIFIC UNION

BULLETIN g E PAN-PACIFIC UNION

Issued as a part of the Mid-Pacific Magazine The Official organ of the Union

CONTENTS New Series, No. 13, November, 1920.

PAGE Aims and Objects of the Pan-Pacific Union 2 Pan-Pacific News 3 Secretary's Monthly Report 4 Frank A. Vanderlip Urges Conferences in Hawaii 7 Thomas W. Lamont, before Honolulu Chamber of Commerce 9 Australia and the Pan-Pacific Union 11 The Pan-Pacific Educational Conference 12 Pan-Pacific Commercial Statistics 15 Some Korean Inventions 15 A Pan-Pacific Financial Conference 16

HONOLULU Published by the Union 1920 2 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. Aims and Objects of the Pan-Pacific Union as Incorporated in Its Charter

THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION is an organization representing Governments of Pacific lands, with which are affiliated Chambers of Commerce and kindred bodies, working for the advancement of Pacific States and Communities, and a greater co-operation among and between the people of all races in Pacific lands. The Pan-Pacific Union is incorporated with an International Board of Trustees, representing every race and nation of the Pacific. The trustees may be added to or replaced by appointed representatives of the different countries co-operating in the Pan-Pacific Union. The following are the main objects set forth in the charter of the Pan-Pacific Union : 1. To call in conference delegates from all Pacific peoples for the pur- pose of discussing and furthering the interests common to Pacific nations. 2. To maintain in Hawaii and other Pacific lands bureaus of information and education concerning matters of interest to the people of the Pacific, and to disseminate to the world information of every kind of progress and oppor- tunity in Pacific lands, and to promote the comfort and interests of all visitors. 3. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the best interests of the land of their adoption, and, through them, to spread abroad about the Pacific the friendly spirit' of inter-racial co-operation. 4. To assist and to aid the different races in lands of the Pacific to co- operate in local fairs, to raise produce, and to create home manufactured goods. 5. To own real estate, erect buildings needed for housing exhibits ; pro- vided and maintained by the respective local committees. 6. To maintain a Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, and Art Gallery. 7. To create dioramas, gather exhibits, books and other Pan - Pacific material of educational or instructive value. 8. To promote and conduct a Pan-Pacific Exposition of the handicrafts of the Pacific peoples, of their works of art, and scenic dioramas of the most beautiful bits of Pacific lands, or illustrating great Pacific industries. 9. To establish and maintain a permanent college and "clearing house" of information (printed and otherwise) concerning the lands, commerce, peoples, and trade opportunities in countries of the Pacific, creating libraries of commer- cial knowledge, and training men in this commercial knowledge of Pacific lands. 10. To secure the co-operation and support of Federal and State govern- ments, chamberi of commerce, city governments, and of individuals. 11. To enlist for this work of publicity in behalf of Alaska, the Territory of Hawaii, and the Philippines, Federal aid and financial support, as well as similar co-operation and support from all Pacific governments. 12. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closet friendly and commercial contact and relationship. PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. Pan-Pacific News

OME twenty-five members ot Con- will select exhibits to take to the gress completed the trip through United States and place on tour of S the Orient suggested to them ny the larger cities, making a circuit that the Pan-Pacific Union. This is but a will consume two years. Other coun- beginning it is hoped. tries of the Pacific may select or ex- The Pan- Next year it is planned to change art exhibits for home instruc- Pacific charter a fast vessel for tion. Cruise. a cruise around the Pa- cific. It is planned to se- Congressman L. C. Dyer was among lect a certain number of legislators and those who made the visit to China and commercial attaches from each Pacific Japan. Mr. Dyer is interested in get- land and invite them to visit and be- ting through his committee, that on the come acquainted with each other's Judiciary, a bill that will authorize the countries and peoples. It is hoped that securing of a Federal charter for cor- the Pan-Pacific cruise will become an porations doing business in China in annual affair. which Americans have an interest. The 28th of November, 1920, marks There would be no income tax to be the four hundredth anniversary of the paid by the Chinese stockholders but day when Fernando Magellan entered the Americans would be taxed on their the Pacific ocean through the strait incomes. Such a law is needed if now named after him. He gave the Americans are expected to compete with Pacific ocean its name. It is but ap- other countrymen in China who are pro- propriate that Manila marks the four tected by their governments in this hundredth anniversary of Magellan with mattter. a Far Eastern Exposition, for Magel- lan's voyage around the Pacific began One thing the Congressional party and ended in the Philippines, and there learned in the Orient was that their he died April 27, 1521. Consuls are disgracefully American housed both in China and September, 1921, has been selected by Consulates in Japan, while the Con- Chairman Paul Reinsch of the Pan- in the suls from every other land Pacific Art Conference and Orient. live and do business for The Pan- Art Exhibit Committee, as their countries in buildings Pacific the time of the Art Con- of which they need not be ashamed. Art ference in Honolulu. A American Consuls in the Far East are Congress. site has been tendered the often humiliated, occupying perhaps a Pan-Pacific Union on shanty'as an office, and that beside the which to erect a building to house the palatial consular building of some Eu- art exhibits from Pacific lands and ropean country. Chairman Stephen G. work on this it is expected will be be- Porter of the Foreign Affairs Commit- gun at once. The American Federa- tee of the House headed the Congres- tion of Arts cooperating with the work sional party. He got through a bill at 4 PAN-PACIFIC U NION BULLETIN. the last Congress that raises the fee from Australia and New Zealand were for American passports to $10, and with recently entertained in Ho- this income it is proposed to erect re- Press Men nolulu. Some of these men spectable buildings abroad to house oof the own and conduct powerful newspapers in Australia. American Consular offices. Pacific. They were en route to the "Visual Instruction" by means of the Imperial Press Congress in Ottawa, motion film has been taken up actively Canada. Soon newspaper men from by the public schools and other edu- Canada and the United States will be catiOnal institutions of Hawaii. A cen- entertained in Honolulu as they stop tral exchange is being established for there on their way to the world's Press collecting and distributing Pan-Pacific Congress in Sydney. These men are commercial and educational films. These welcomed in Honolulu coming and go- will be loaned free in all Pacific lands ing. Before long it is likely that the on condition that they be shown free press men of the Pacific will be invited of charge. to meet at the Ocean's Cross Roads A .number of press representatives City arid know each other better.

Secretary's Monthly Report to the President and Directors of the Pan-Pacific Union

The Pan-Pacific Union having se- ernment of New Zealand and with that cured appropriations for the continu- of New South Wales with the result ance of its work from several Pacific that preliminary appropriations were governments now enters a new and promptly made and the Governor of more serious phase of its work. Hawaii, as president of the Pan-Pacific The governments of the Pacific are Union, officially notified to this ef- appropriating funds primarily to aid fect. the Pan-Pacific Union in establishing a The secretary then visited Washing- force of salaried workers who have ton, D. C., and with the president of had experience in calling and handling the union and vice-president Kalania- international conferences and con- na.ole, the Hawaiian delegate, called on gresses. Senator Lodge, chairman of the Senate The first appropriation was made in Foreign Affairs Committee, and se- 1919 by the Territory of Hawaii, for cured from Congress an appropriation the purpose of maintaining a central of $9000 for the year ending June 31, bureau that would handle the work of 1921. Pan-Pacific Conferences called in Ha- The secretary next visited Ottawa, waii. This appropriation was made the capital of Canada, conferred with available when three other Pacific gov- the premier, Robert Borden, and some ernments had made appropriations • to- of his conferees concerning the partic- ward the expenses of calling the Pan- ipation of Canada in the calling of the Pacific conferences. Pan-Pacific Conferences. The matter The secretary at once took up the of an appropriation toward this is now matter of appropriations with the gov- before the Parliament of Canada. PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. 5

In Washington, D. C., the secretary tural Conference is being taken up with was verbally assured by Ambassadors, the Department of Commerce and has Ministers or the representatives, from made some progress. This in connec- Japan, China and several Latin-Ameri- tion with a Pan-Pacific Food Conserva- can countries that these would partici- tion Conference at which it is believed pate, in the expenses of the Pan-Pacific that Herbert Hoover would preside ; Union in maintaining a Central Bureau there is some correspondence with him for handling Pan-Pacific Conferences on this subject. called to meet in Hawaii, and it was The calling of a Pan-Pacific Histori- suggested that he personally visit these cal Conference has beeen taken up countries to conclude the negotiations. with the Carnegie Institute, and is In behalf of the Dutch East Indies, the making progress. Holland ministry in Washington The American Federation of Arts pledged its cooperation. Society convening in New York to cel- At the several Pan-Pacific gatherings ebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the held in Washington, D. C., called by foundation of the Metropolitan Museum the secretary, there were in attendance of Art passed resolutions favoring the members of the Cabinet, trustees of the calling in Honolulu under its auspices Union, Ambassadors, Ministers and but through the Pan-Pacific Union, of a trade commmissioners from Pacific Pan-Pacific Art Conference and Art lands as well as members of Con- Exhibit, which would be annual, the gress. exhibits gathered from every part of At these meetings plans for a series the Pacific being taken to the United of Pan-Pacific Conferences to be called States for a two years' tour, and the to meet in Hawaii were discussed and objects sold there. This is being tak- the following approved : en up with the secretary and Dr. Paul A Pan-Pacific Scientific Congress Reinsch who suggested the Art Con- • Honolulu August 2 to 22, 1920, Dr. gress and Exhibit, and approves the Herbert E. Gregory, chairman. month of September, 1921, as the time A Pan-Pacific Commercial Conference of the conference. called by the department of commerce, The International Y. M. C. A. has at a date to be set in 1921, Hon. asked for data on which it can base Franklin K. Lane chairman, to convene and hold in Hawaii a Pan-Pacific Con- and conduct this conference in Ha- ference of its secretaries stationed about waii. the great ocean. A Pan-Pacific Financial and a Pan- The American Red Cross has asked Pacific Health Conference are still un- of the International Red Cross permis- der discussion with the Treasury De- sion to hold a Pan-Pacific Red Cross partment. The Surgeon General of the Congress in Hawaii. United States Health Bureau would be The head of the Boy Scouts of and is willing to act as chairman of America has authorized the calling of the health conference if called in Ha- a Pan-Pacific Boy Scouts Conference. waii. It is expected that the Rocke- with James A. Wilder as chairman ; he feller Foundation would cooperate in will set the date and be present as the calling of this conference and the presiding officer. matter is now being taken up with Governor Thomas Riggs, Jr., of that organization. Alaska, and Stephen B. Mather, direc- The matter of a Pan-Pacific Agricul- tor of the National Parks Service, 6 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. urge the calling of a PanPacific Travel traveling and otherwise of the secretary and Transportation Congress in Hawaii. for the year ending December 31, 1920, They would both expect to attend and as he should accept the invitation to should be left to set the date. visit and consult with Pacific govern- These are some of the official and ments likely to contribute to the sup- semi-official Pan-Pacific Conferences port of the Pan-Pacific Union, and the scheduled to be held in Hawaii during salary of the secretary is but a dollar the 1921 under the auspices of the Pan- a year, and traveling expenses are Pacific Union—most of these will be- heavy. come annual events. The secretary found everyone in It is expected that the Pan-Pacific Washington, from the President down Union will maintain a force competent through all departments and in Con- to handle these conferences and quar- gress most helpful in furnishing • the ters in which they may be held. Presi- aims of the Pan-Pacific Union. They dent of the Union, the Governor of expect its headquarters to be main- Hawaii has offered the use of the tained in Honolulu and are ready to throne room in the capitol for the 'give their cooperation and advice in large conferences. It is not expected perfecting the organization and in se- that more than 50 to 100 of the in- curing for it the proper working force, tellectual or commercial leaders of the and in this also promised the aid and Pacific will be in attendance at any counsel of the other governments of one of these conferences. the Pacific. The Department of Commerce is will- ing to establish a division of its com- The Great Northern sailed on time mercial bureau in Hawaii with the Pan- for Manila and a few days out the Pacific Union, provided the Union Filipino delegate, Jaime de Veyra re- brings from Washington the man they ceived the following cable from his appprove to organize this work. Such confreres in the Filipino capital : a man must speak two languages used "On the day of party arrival on in Pacific lands, and must serve with Saturday, July 4, as per your last the Department of Commerce in Wash- advice a water parade of decorated ington for a period of six months. It launches will meet transport just out- is possible to secure such a man from side of breakwater, members of the the Pan-American Union who has also party will be assigned to private res- had ten yeirs of travel in Pacific lands idences and Manila hotel." and in the routine of calling and hand- On that day in the evening at 9:30 ling PanAmerican Conferences. It is o'clock Governor General and Mrs. urged that the secretary be authorized Francis Burton Harrison are giving a to secure such an assistant. It would ball at Malacanang palace. be well also if an expert from Austra- "On the second day, Sunday, July lasia and one from the Orient could 25, a visit will be made to the im- be induced to visit Hawaii and take portant churches ; in the afternoon Phil- part in organizing the work of the Pan- ippine General Hospital and Aquarium Pacific Union's Central Service Bureau will be visited, sightseeing terminating and Clearing House. at Constabulary on Luneta weather It has been voted that out of the permittting—evening freee. Territorial appropriation of $10,000 that "On the third day, Monday, July $3,500 be set aside for the expenses, 26, trip to Calamba estate and Pagsan- PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. 7

jan by special' train returning to Ma- 30, morning sightseeing, noon club nila in the evening. luncheon to the gentlemen of the party "On the fourth day, July 27, morn- by Resident Commissioner Babaldon, ing devoted to sightseeing, noon Phil- 4:30 o'clock visit to Bilibid prison, 9:30 ippine Chamber of Commerce lunch- o'clock reception and ball at the Marble eon, 5 to 8 o'clock p. m. tea party at Hall by the Philippine Legislators. Normal Hall—evening free. "Eighth day, Saturday, July 31, will "On the fifth day, Wednesday, July be devoted to trip to Corregidor and 28, party will leave for Baguio in the Cavite, if party will stay ten days, one morning. Trip to Baguio according to full day will be devoted to Corregidor program will cover only two days but and another full day to Cavite. if party will remain in the Philippines "Dates for Elks' club and Manila ten days as announced by the Philip- Merchants' reception not yet filled. pine Department stay in Baguio will "We are• re-arranging program to be extended by at least one day. cover ten days as per advice Philip- "On the seventh day, Friday, July pine Department."

Frank A. Vanderlip Urges Pan-Pacific Conferences in Hawaii

Hawaii's unique and responsible po- conference of Japanese business men sition as the center of Pan-Pacific with local business men to discuss in thought and influence was strongly a friendly manner, here at the half- emphasized by Frank A. Vanderlip, way station, the problem of American- former president of the National City Japanese relations. Bank of New York, father of the War Saving Stamp idea and member of "We have come from Japan," said the unofficial American mission which Mr. Vanderlip, "where our party went has beeen visiting Japan, and Thomas as a body of individuals on the invita- W. Lamont, member of the firm of tion of a group of individuals in Japan J. P. Morgan & Co., one of the finan- and we have had a remarkable expe- cial advisors of the peace conference rience there. We have been holding and head of the American financial the frankest of conferences on subjects group which has just completed the which have been a cause of friction formation of the international consor- between the two countries. tium in China. "We have learned that there is in Speaking before a luncheon audience, Japan a body of citizens, with as high gathered under the auspices of the moral aims and spiritual outlook as any Chamber of Commerce of Honolulu—an that can be found in the United States audience that crowded the Commercial or elsewhere. We have found that spirit Club dining room far beyond its limit generally among the business commu- —both financiers urged the business nity and we believe that public opinion men of Hawaii to take an active part in Japan reflects it. in the great developments of the "In our conferences we talked over Orient and suggested the calling of a the California immigration question. 8 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN.

The immigration question of Hawaii "I believe that you, here in Hawaii was not even mentioned, so it appar- could make a national contribution to ently does not disturb them. We talked the situation. Suppose the Chamber of on Shantung, Siberia and on the ca- Commerce of Honolulu were to invite ble situation. a group of Japanese here for the gen- "One ' of the features of our con- eral discussion of international rela- ference was the hopefulness of the tions, having it specifically understood Japanese conferees that the military that it is in no way an arbitration of power is declining and that democracy questions of dispute. I have found is developing. The Diet has only a here liberality, patience and breadth of limited power over the military. The mind. You are in a position to do just emperor appoints the army and navy such work. representatives in the cabinet irrespec- "The Japanese don't want freedom tive of the party in power. The Diet of immigration. They want courtesy of has some control through the budget. treatment, not to be classed as foreign- "We ;discussed Shantung freely. ers, not to be singled out for special There have been reprehensible things legislation. If we go at the problems there but, generally speaking, the im- in the right way we shall have peace pression is that the attitude of the and friendship. If we go at it the Japanese people favors the return of wrong way we shall have endless trou- Shantung to China. ble. • "The Asian problems present great "The real problem of Japan is eco- difficulties and many sides. In the vast nomic. There are 57,000,000 people in Siberian region east of Lake Baikal the small island group and the popu- there is chaos, here and there Bolshe- lation is increasing at the rate of 600,- vik communities, but no strong central 000 a year. They have long since passed government. China has a weak central the point where the group can supply government. food enough. "As to Korea the Japanese admitted "They say, 'You have closed Amer- frankly that there had been gross mis- ica and Asia to us. What shall we do ?" takes and undue harshness in the mili- "I believe that they must develop tary measures. The Japanese people industrially but there are big prob- were themselves astonished at the rev- lems in the way. They lack coal and elations and reforms that have been iron and the market is well occupied. carried out by imperial rescript. In ad- "We spend millions on the army and mitting the mistakes the Japanese the navy which are weapons to be used were too polite to push any inquiry in imposing our will by might when into the shooting and burning of ne- diplomacy fails. Yet our state depart- groes in our own country. ment is working by archaic methods. "To sum up, the unofficial conference Its heads are rapidly changing. Great was useful. It informed the Japanese questions are referred to clerks in back public and will inform the American Offices and settled there. The state de- public. The Japanese people showed a partment today is burying valuable re- deep interest in it. At Osaka we ad- ports and suggestions. dressed 7000 persons in a hall and had "While the state department is be- to speak to an overflow meeting out- ing developed you in Hawaii may, by side. The Japanese press printed a conferences such as that suggested— vast amount of material about the not an arbitration of disputes—make conference. a great contribution to the nation." PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. ()

Thomas W. Lamont, at the Ocean's Cross Roads

Thomas W. Lamont, member of the enter into partnership as to China with firm of J. P. Morgan & Co., addressed the banking groups of America, Great the Chamber of Commerce in Hono- Britain and France, but the Japanese lulu after his successful visit to the government had qualified its entry by Orient to arrange for the convention. attempting to reserve portions of Man- He appealed to Hawaii as the half churia and Mongolia from the scope way house and said : of the consortium. These reservations "The American banking group, with were inadmissable to the other banking the cordial approval of the British and groups as being opposed to the idea of French groups, asked me to take this a free and full partnership. They were, trip to the Far East for two purposes. as it appeared, equally inadmissable to The first was to visit Japan and find the governments of the United States, out definitely whether the Japanese Great Britain and France, as tending banking group, with the approval of to establish a political status for Japan its government, intended to come into not consistent with the independence the consortium as a partner, on the and integrity of China. On several same terms as the other bank groups. points there was sincere misunderstand- The second object was to visit China ing, which was largely cleared away by and to report back to the western our discussions at Tokio. We were able groups upon conditions existing there, to assure our friends in Japan that the economic, financial and political, so that consortium had no intentions with re- they could better determine the ques- spect to Manchuria and Mongolia that tion as to whether China offered today would serve to injure the economic se- a safe and attractive field for the sav- curity or national safety of Japan. The ings of the western investors. Japanese government, on the other hand, gave assurance that it desired "As to the first object of my trip, to set up no fresh political claims in the result has already been announced. the regions referred to with the final After protracted and somewhat complex result, as already announced, that this negotiations the Japanese banking and certain other obscure points having group declared its intention, with the been cleared up, the reservations were entire approval of its government, to withdrawn and the consortium became enter the consortium upon the same ba- a fact. sis as the rest of us. In bringing about "In China I spent a month in in- this arrangement, I am happy to pay vestigating conditions as requested and a tribute to the sagacity and courage of also in explaining there the principles Roland S. Morris, our ambassador at and purposes of the consortium, about Tokio, who occupies there a unique which I found there was grave misun- position of influence and strength. derstanding. When it was once made It will be recalled that a year ago plain to the Chinese that the consortium at Paris, when the consortium was first planned to operate only with the con- tentatively formed, the Japanese bank- sent and cooperation of the Chinese ing group had expressed its desire to people, that it did not intend to in- 10 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. vade the field of ordinary commercial step in p. long and arduous pathway. or banking business and that it ex- The banking groups will have to dis- pected to concern itself only with the play towards one another great pa- development of those great basic en- tience, great tolerance. Coalitions never terprises of China, such as currency re- function readily ; international partner- form, the building up of transportation, ships always prove diffcult, but the etc., so as to provide a more solid basis fact that we are all engaged in one for private initiative and effort, then, I enterprise and with one principle in say, the consortium was heartily wel- view, namely, the welfare of China, comed by the leading men of affairs ought to weld us together and make in China. our operations successful. But in or- "Despite the fact that the present der to reach that happy end we must Peking government is not strong in bespeak the cooperation of all good administration, I was on the whole American citizens and most particular- greatly impressed with the fundament- ly I want to make a brief personal ap- al integrity of the Chinese people. I peal to you here in Hawaii, who oc- was impressed with the growth that cupy this important half way house be- there has been in the last few years in tween the American continent and the education, the study of political insti- shores of the Far East. You know tutions and of government. There yet what the Far Eastern problems are ; remain many difficult problems to be you have given thought to the solution solved. Friends of China will still suf- of them. We need your aid ; we need fer temporary disappointment, but in your counsel. Be assured that every the long run with the untold sources member bank of the American group, of natural wealth which the people as well as myself personally, will possess and with their intense indus- greatly apppreciate any communication, try, I look to see them fulfill a destiny oral, written or otherwise, that you as one of the leading nations of the may ever see fit to make us on the earth. Through the consortium and in problems confronting the consortium. every other way possible. I hope that The policy of the United States govern- America will be able to prove afresh ment with respect to the Far East has that her traditional friendship for not always been constant. If this par- China is a substantial one and that all ticular matter of the consortium, how- four banking groups, American, Brit- ever, since it took it up, afresh two ish, French and Japanese, will, work- years ago its policy has been consist- ing together with the Chinese them- ent, energetic, courageous, and for selves, prove a factor contributing to your government itself as well as for the future stability and insurance of your banking group. I again bespeak peace in the Far East. "We must remember that the forma- your cordial support, your thoughtful tion of the consortium, now that Japan interest and the free expression of has decided to come in, is but the first your views." PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. 11 Australia and the Pan-Pacific Union

In Australia there are a number of ganda of the Union's activities that hands around the Pacific clubs, branches it is safe to assert that if one hun- of the Pan-Pacific Union, and these are dred citizens were asked whether given official government recognition they had heard of the Union, ninety- and support. Yet Australia cries for nine would say "no." more active work on the part of her Australia has to be educated to the citizens in the work of the Pan-Pacific importance of this Union, which may Union. easily, in a very short time, become We reprint here an editorial in the a sort of league of nations controll- Sydney Evening Sun,, followed by a ing the destiny of all the lands news item in the Sydney Times. washed by the Pacific waves. Of CROSS-ROADS OF THE PACIFIC. this league President Wilson has been The Prince of Wales reaches Ho- offered the presidency, and, we are nolulu today. Honolulu is distinguish- told, "the secretary of the Union, in ed for its tropical scenery, its ukelele, announcing the offer, said that it its Waikiki Beach, and the fact that constituted a league of nations of the Japan believes that it ought to be Japa- Pacific, which offered to President nese instead of American. Wilson the opportunity to work ac- It is distinguished also by a lesti- tively among more than half the known, but far more important, fact--- population of the world." that it is the headquarters of the Pan- Insofar as such a league would Pacific Union. It is, the American lead to the amicable delimitation of propaganda declares, "the cross-roads of national rights in the Pacific, would the Pacific." form a public opinion Which any na- The Pan-Pacific Union is a fine con- tion would find it hard to resist, and ception, and upon its list of officers are would make for peace, Australians to be found representatives of every should give it every support. But people having interests in the greatest at present the danger is that Amer- ocean of the world. The importance of ican propaganda will give the league the Union it at once recognized when too American a color. Australia, we find that the Honorary Presidents Canada, China, Japan must have their include the names of Woodrow Wilsod, interests published abroad as well. William Morris Hughes ,Sir Robert The advertisement of Honolulu by Borden, W. F. Massey, and Hsu Shill the Union is an example of the tru- Chang, President of China. A confer- ism, "it pays to advertise." Waikiki ence of the representatives of the Pa- Beach is known throughout the cific lands will shortly be called in world. Yet it is no better than Bondi Honolulu. or Manly Beach. Australia's beauty There is one aspect of the Union places are certainly no less beautiful which is worth noting—that the "Bul- than Honolulu's, but the people of Aus- letin" of the organization, containing tralia, those people, at all events, its propaganda, is published by Ameri- who have the money and leisure for cans in Honolulu. Naturally the Amer- ttavel, have spent most of these two ican view of the Pacific is not neg- commodities running all over the earth lected. So little is the public of Aus- to find scenery. It is time that we tralia informed by Australian propa- discovered our own. 12 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN.

The Prince of Wales, after seeeing chief of the Australian University is the the much-advertised scenery of Ha- first of a series. The Pan-Pacific Union waii, should have an opportunity, of is an international body dedicated to the which he would doubtless avail him- advancement of the Pacific states and self to the full, of comparing it with communities. It desires to assist those unadvertised variety and beauty of in all Pacific communities better to our island continent. No Australian understand each other, and to work who knows his own country need have together for the furtherance of the any fear of that competition. interests of the land of their adoption, (From the Sydney Times.) and through them, to spread about the Sydney University has selected Mr. L. Pacific, the friendly spirit of inter- A. Cotton to represent it at the first racial cooperation. The union pro- Scientific Congress of the Pan-Pacific poses to follow the Scientific Con- Union, to be held at Honolulu next Au- ference with others, which will be called in 1921, on commercial, finan- gust. Mr. Cotton is a distinguished Aus- cial, and social matters. tralian geologist, and is the chief as- Mr. Cotton will probably be ac- sistant of the dean of Australian scien- companied to Honolulu by other Aus- tists, Professor David, whose eminent tralian scientists, the conveners of the services in the Antarctic and in the conference being particularly anxious war have made his name a household that such men as Prof. David, Mr. word in scientific circles. Charles Hedley, Mr. E. C. Andrews The conference to which Mr. Cot- and others should take part in the ton will go as the representative of the deliberations.

The Pan-Pacific Educational Conference Honolulu, 1 92 1

The decision as to just what season Mr. Vaughan MacCaughey, of the year is best suited for holding Department of Public Instruction, the Pan-Pacific Educational Confer- Honolulu, T. H. ence in Honolulu at the ocean's cross- My Dear Supt. MacCaughey : roads will be left to the decision of Your letter of recent date in the Dr. P. P. Claxton, United States Com- matter of visiting Hawaii for the missioner of Education. He will act purpose of studying your educational as chairman of this conference and after problems is just at hand. I have given conferring with his colleagues and the the matter a considerable amount of Secretary of the Interior will set the thought because of the fact that last date, and the Department of the In- year by invitation of the Mexican gov- terior will officially invite the coun- ernment, through their Ambassador in tries of the Pacific to participate. Washington, I made an official visit to In view of this conference the fol- the National University of Mexico lowing letter from President R. B. Van and while in that republic studied Kleinsmid of the University of Ari- their educational system. zona will prove of interest. It has been more recently proposed PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. 13 by the Pan-American Union in Wash- situated can divert what is otherwise ington that I arrange for a visit to a natural tendency. The presence of the South American republics, officially Chinese students in our universities and visiting their educational institutions. colleges has gone far to remove the Just when this plan can be worked out bogey of the yellow peril as far as it is difficult to. tell because of the that nation is concerned. A mutual unsettled condition of affairs in general exchange of ideas sincerely practiced at this time. by citizens of two states will without If you feel that a visit to your uni- doubt create an international friend- versity or college and an investigation ship. of your educational problems in Ha- The recent visit of President R. B. waii could be of service to you and von Kleinsmid of the University of helpful to our own people in under- Arizona to the National University of standing the educational conditions of Mexico and the return of the visit by your territory, I may be able to make Dr. Jose Natividad Macias, president the trip. I should be glad to have of the National University of the you write me if you think favorably in republic of the south were more than this matter, stating at what time such mere academic courtesies. They were a visit would be most acceptable to international events. For several years yourself and other educational author- President von Kleinsmid has been ad- ities of Hawaii. Of course, it would vancing the idea that the desired closer be more convenient for me to arrange economic relation and the better po- such a trip directly after the first of litical understanding with the Spanish June, though another time could doubt- republics of this hemisphere could be less be determined upon without any hastened greatly through the medium great inconvenience here. of our universities and especially those With kind regards and best wishes, located in the southwest. The success I am of President von Kleinsmid's efforts Faithfully yours, is indicated by the desire on the part R. B. VAN KLEINSMID, of the Mexican republic for a closer President. relationship and a better understanding with the United States. The University ACADEMIC COOPERATION WITH of Mexico has broken a precedent al- MEXICO most four centuries old, and for the If racial differences are so frequent- first time has conferred upon a for- ly the antecedents of international dif- eigner the degree of doctor of laws. ferences, a relationship with Mexico as The granting of this degree to Pres- cordial as that existing between the ident von Kleinsmid was much more United States and Canada might be than a personal matter. He repre- regarded as the dream of an idealist ; sents institutions and ideals they de- and if to this appreciation of unlike- sire to know more intimately. This ness there has in the past been added idea was expressed on several occa- the involuntary surrender of territory sions. With the same idea in mind by one party, there exists seemingly the University of Arizona returned the without hope of readjustment the prob- courtesy, and at its recent commence- ability of mutual economic and social ment exercises conferred the degree loss and the ever impending possibility of doctor of laws upon President Ma- of national conflict. Only a conscious cias of the National University of effort on the part of two nations so Mexico. President Macias extended 14 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. his visit to other universities of the tions of industry and prosperity. This southwest hoping to lay the founda- is a simple illustration of one miscon- tion of an exchange of students and ception disproved by the visit of the professors between his institution and university presidents. The full sig- others of this country. nificance can be determined only in The intelligent minds of Mexico re- later years after the Republic of\ Mex- gret the misconceptions of their state so ico has gone farther in the solution generally prevalent in this country. of her economic, social, and political They are making every effort to solve difficulties ; and after we have learned their problems. The National Univer- to understand and appreciate her strug- sity of Mexico, the oldest in North gles. America, has this task definitely in mind. At one time its school of mines THE SCHOOLS AND HAWAII'S ranked with the best on the continent, NATURE BACKGROUND but this has been interfered with some- By Vaughan MacCaughey. The natural background of Hawaii what by the revolution. The engin- constitutes an unrivaled educational eering school with machinery from laboratory and playground. The sea- the United States and Europe fur- nishes a laboratory that might well reef, beach, lowlands, plantations, for- be the envy of many state universities ests, mountains and cloud-kissed peaks make a marvelously rich and diversified of this country. Other schools and colleges of the university are as well island world. Hawaii's boys and girls, equipped. The professors have had if they are to grow up as intelligent, the best training that the universities contented, happy men and women, of the United States and Europe can should be given a working-knowledge afford. This feeling for the need of a of and a sympathetic attitude toward better understanding of Mexico is not this incomparable nature heritage. Love a new one. Societies for this purpose of the out-of-doors is a powerful have been in existence several years ; source of _human happiness. Knowl- and for the last three years forty- edge of natural science is basic in seven universities and colleges have building community prosperity. Na- been offering scholarships to Mexi- ture study and elementary science in can students. The present movement the schools are not fads, but are part is a most successful step in advance of every child's birthright, and part of previous efforts. of every properly organized curricu- The need of a better understanding lum. Hawaii's agricultural success has of Mexico on the part of the United been due largely to applied science. States is appreciated most of all by Scientific courses should be promi- the Mexican leaders themselves. They nent in our high schools. Biology, well know the prevalence of false prop- chemistry, physics, physical geography, aganda within this country and desire health and sanitation—these are essen- that we learn of conditions for our- tials in the twentieth century. Hawaii selves. Stories in our own newspa- has great out-door educational re- pers of revolts in Mexico City scarcely sources that scarcely have been held in check by machine guns on touched. They should be incorporated public buildings are only disproved into the program of every school, and When one visits the Mexican capital into the life of the people. Sympa- and finds no revolution, no machine thetic knowledge of the environment guns ; but instead are many indica- is the basis of education.

PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. 15 Pan-Pacific Commercial Statistics By HON. JOHN BARRETT. HE Hon. John Barrett, after a de- and I will endeavor to cooperate with cade of usefulness at the head of you in every way possible, for I am pro- Tthe Pan-American Union, retires foundly interested in the future of your from that organization, being succeed- organization. ed as Director General by Dr. L. S. "Yours very sincerely, Rowe, formerly chief of the Latin- "JOHN BARRETT." American Division of the Department Countries Bordering on the Pacific. of State. He assumed the duties of (Including Canada, United States, Mexico, Central America, and Colombia, Ecuador, his new office on September first, with Peru, Chile, Bolivia) assurances to the Pan-Pacific Union Area Population Commerce that the splendid spirit of cooperation Canada 3,604,000 8,360,000 $2,503,000,000 that has always existed between the United States 3,027,000 103,500,000 6,149,000,000 Mexico 767,000 15,160,000 265,888,000 Pan Pacific and Pan American Unions Central America 220,200 5,445,000 94,842,000 would continue and grow even closer in Five South Ameri- effect. can Countries 2,234,000 18,995,000 774,669,000 One of the last acts of Mr. Barrett Total 9,852,200 151,458,000 $9,787,399,000 was to present an autograph photo- graph of himself to the Pan-Pacific Japan Korea Union, and to prepare a table of com- China 5,183,000 407,821,000 $2,082,56,000 mercial Pan Pacific activities, both of Philippines which we herewith submit to our read- Australia ers: Total 15,035,200 559,279,000 $11,869,935,000 World 50,000,000 1,692,000,000 $46,523,000,000 "Referring to your esteemed note, it Countries Border- gives me much pleasure to send you an ing on Pacific, appropriately autographed photograph Percent of World 30.07 33.00 25.51 of myself for use in connection with All Latin your work of the Pan Pacific Union. America 8,062,000 58,350,000 $5,939,000,000 "Please keep me informed from time Java and the Dutch East Indies are not included in this table, nor are Siberia, Malay, Cochin-China, to time as to just what you are doing, Siam, New Zealand, and the South Sea islands.

Some Korean Inventions HE Rev. J. A. Duncan, a mission- centuries before the German monk who ary who has lived in Korea for is ordinarily credited with the discov- Tten years, says in an interview : ery gave out his formula. The astro- "Korea was and still is a progressive nomers of Silla, one of the ancient nation. I saw recently some reference provinces of Korea, thought out the to the fact that Korea used ironclads operations of the planetary system and against the Japanese as early as 1597, its working to such an extent that they and that the Koreans were the first to were able to predict eclipses with cer- use cast metal type. Nothing has been tainty centuries before present-day sci- said about and perhaps it is not gen- entists gave credit for these discoveries, erally known that the Koreans discov- and it was this same people that gave ered gunpowder in 200 B. C., fourteen the world the magnetic needle and the

16 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN.

mariner's compass. One of their old brass and bronze foundries in Korea at observatory towers can still be seen in the beginning of the Christian era. lower Korea. Many of the industrial One of their products is still in Korea arts of the present day are based on —the great bell of Silla, the same size Korean discoveries. as the great bell of Moscow, but cast "A Korean invented the potter's wheel eleven centuries before the latter. and Korean potters discovered the art of Bronze cannons from Korea have been underglazing. The present Emperor of found in China cast in 200 B. C. Japan drinks his tea from the first ex- "There is a tradition, and evidence to amples of Korean pottery. Count Oku- support it, that Korean engineers plan- ma gives credit to Koreans for the in- ned and built the great wall of China troduction into Japan of the art of for the 'Emperor of China. The ad- weaving silk and of carpentry and ar- vanced civilization of Korea no doubt chitecture. Koreans first sent into Ja- was contemporaneous with the same pan musical instruments. There were advanced civilization of China."

A Pan-Pacific Financial Conference

ROM Australia, New Zealand, the It has been the dream of many ideal- United States as well as from ists that once all Pacific lands are FOriental countries have come sug- placed on a gold basis that a Pan Pa- gestions urging the calling of a Pan- cific coin, the value of either the Ameri- Pacific Financial Conference at the can five dollar gold piece or the Aus- Ocean's Crossroads. tralian pound, might become the unit In Washington the calling of such a of value throughout the Pacific lands. conference in Honolulu has received Even were the countries of the Pacific serious consideration. There are many intricate problems of exchange that in- to jointly adopt a gold coinage of uni- , terest the financial leaders of Pacific versal value in Pacific lands, this might lands, these must be thought out and not do away entirely with sales of ex- solved along technical lines not easily change, but it would add untold con- comprehended by the layman, but there veniences to the conduct of commerce is one reform that might be accomp- lished that would be understood and and travel in Pacific lands. Dr. Geo. valued by all, the adoption throughout Fred Kurz, V. P., of Tiffany & Co., Pacific lands of the decimal system of president of the International Metric currency with one standard of value, Society, has written recently on this either the gold dollar of Canada or the subject in the Mid-Pacific Magazine. United States, or the gold yen of Ja- pan. This would be but an item in Congressman Michael F. Phelan of the deliberation of trained financial the Banking and Currency Committee, giants of the Pacific, but it would loom after a recent visit to the Orient, thinks up very big in the eyes of men who a Pan-Pacific Conference should be trade with Pacific lands or have any business transactions with their mer- called to meet at Honolulu under the chants. auspices of the Pan-Pacific Union. Advertising Section

THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY

Consistent with its policy of super-service, the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- pany provides shore facilities to tourists and shippers no less attractive than are found on its modernized steamers. When in Hongkong, accept the Company's welcome at its headquarters shown above. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC

Toyo Kisen Kaisha is ;the largest Trans-Pacific Service to South America. steamship company operating between In connection with the trans-Pacific San Francisco, Japan and the Orient. It service to North America, Toyo Kisen maintains fast and frequent service across Kaisha also operates a line of steamers the Pacific, following the "Pathway of from Hongkong to Valparaiso (South the Sun" along the semi-tropic route, America), via Moji, Kobe, Yokohama, touching Honolulu. This is one of the Honolulu, San Francisco, San Pedro most delightful ocean voyages in the (Los Angeles), Salina Cruz, Balboa world, as it carries the passenger over (Ancon), Callao, Arica and Iquique. smoothest seas and, by touching at This is the longest regular service in op- Honolulu, affords a pleasant break in eration by any Japanese steamship line the journey. The steamers of this line touching American ports. are of the most advanced types, having The steamers on this line are in been built especially for this service. through round trip service between China and Japan ports and Southern Chile via The present fleet of the North Ameri- San Francisco and west coast ports of can line consists of the following : Shinyo North and South America. Steamers triple turbine, 22,000 tons ; Tenyo Maru, call at San Pedro on their outward and triple turbine, 22,000 tons ; Siberia Maru, homeward voyages to the Orient. These 20,000 tons, twin screw ; Korea Maru, steamers are all new and of the latest twin screw, 20,000 tons, and Maru, type with saloon accommodations. In Persia Maru, 9,000 tons. this fleet are the Anyo Maru, 18,500 The Tenyo and Shinyo Maru are sister tons ; Kiyo Maru, 17,000 tons, and the ships of 22,000 tons displacement. They Seiyo Maru, 14,000 tons. are driven by triple screw turbine en- The passenger accommodations are gines which account for an utter absence amidships, all rooms being located on the of vibration for a speed of 21 knots per upper and bridge decks, thus affording hour. These ships are as finely equipped plenty of light and ventilation. There in every detail as the best first-class ho- are numerous baths and lavatories which tels on shore, and leave nothing to be de- afford ample accommodations for all sired in service or table. The total length passengers. of the deck area measures almost a mile. The Head Office of the Toyo Kisen giving ample opportunity for exercise Kaisha is in Tokyo. and promenade. The Honolulu office is in the Alex- ander Young Building. The office for In addition to these giant liners a num- America is in San Francisco, Cal., at 625 ber of cargo steamers are operated to Market street ; New York office, 165 take care of the freight business. Broadway. THE MID-PACIFIC 3

Around Oahu by Rail

The Oahu Railway practically encircles the Island of Oahu. There are daily trains to Haleiwa—"the House Beautiful" (see arrow), and through the most extensive pineapple fields in the world, at Wahiawa. .

A Scene .long the Line of the Oahu Railway

4 THE MID-PACIFIC Honolulu from the Trolley Car

The Trolley Car at the Judiciary Building and Statue of Kamehameha "the Great." Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co., Ltd.

The world's largest and most luscious pineapples at home on the uplands of Hawaii

I CKED ripe and canned right" is hours that same fragrant fruit is per- more than a slogan. Strictly ad- fectly preserved in shining tin. P There are fifty odd thousand acres of hered to by the Hawaiian Pineapple • pineapples grown annually in Hawaii Packers' Association—ten corporations and the acreage increases yearly. This engaged in the growing and canning of season's pack amounts to approximately pineapples in the Hawaiian Islands—it six million cases, the major portion of has won the palate of the world to what which is handled during the Summer is perhaps the most delicious product of months. There are twelve canneries, any land. Each morning sees the golden some of them turning out 35,000 cases a ripe fruit in the field and within a few day. THE MID-PACIFIC 5 The Island of Maui

ULU NORMAL SCHOOL

PREPARED AND COP1R:C, AHU1.tc 11_116 T POP

AALAt.A

May by courtesy of Alexander c6 Baldwin, Ltd.

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., ance Co., The Home Insurance Co. of (known by everyone as "A. & B."), is New York, The New Zealand Insurance looked upon as one of the most progres- Co., General A. F. & L. Assurance Cor- sive American corporations in Hawaii. poration, Switzerland Marine Insurance Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents Co., Ltd. for the largest sugar plantation of the The officers of this large and progres- Hawaiian Islands and second largest in sive firm, all of whom are staunch sup- the world, namely, the Hawaiian Com- porters of the Pan-Pacific and other mercial & Sugar Company at Puunene, movements which are for the good of Ha- Maui. They are also agents for many waii, are as follows : other plantations and concerns of the Islands, among which are the Haiku W. M. Alexander, President ; H. A. Sugar Company, Paia Plantation, Maui Baldwin, First Vice-President ; J. Water- Agricultural Company, Hawaiian Sugar house, Second Vice-President and Man- Company, McBryde Sugar Company ager; W. 0. Smith, Third Vice Pres- Ltd., Kahului Railroad Company, Kauai ident ; John Guild, Secretary ; C. R. Hem- Railroad Company, Ltd., and Honolua enway, Treasurer ; F. F. Baldwin, Direc- Ranch. tor ; C. H. Atherton, Director ; W. R. This firm ships a larger proportion of Castle, Director. the total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Besides the home office in the Stangen- Islands than any other agency. wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & In addition to their extensive sugar Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices plantations, they are also agents for the in Seattle, in the Melhorn Building ; in following well-known and strong insur- New York at 82 Wall Street, and in the ance companies : Springfield Fire & Ma- Alaska Commercial Building, San Fran- rine Ins. Co., American Central Insur- cisco. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Island of Kauai

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Navigation Company, maintaining 'the premier ferry service between Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kisen Kaisha, main- taining palatial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agen- cies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd. This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchants streets, Honolulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Matson Navigation Company. The ad- joining offices are used by the firm for their business as sugar factors and in- surance agents ; Phone 1251. Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha- waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tour- ist may secure in the folder racks, book- lets and pamphlets descriptive of almost Maps by courtesy of Castle (C Cooke, Ltd. every part of the great ocean.

HONJUUV NOItt'ALSI.4DOL 60,:f

KAIJA I h81.1.15tatule Stip.tors Mite, 5+7 cnd Twilusty.filis Miles Acrol5

4—hau petior,wa 5.g. 5o fact

aI ittanott from.Nonni ul u 98 Masi 4Vid. R koao Peppin it+itt turfs 5tagar Ptaniailaos SU• Cro p for i907 , 7 4.41 tens j. THE MID-PACIFIC 7

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FERTILIZING THE SOIL. Millions of dollars are spent in Hawaii fertilizing the cane and pineapple fields. The Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Com- pany, with large works and warehouses in Honolulu, imports from every part of the Globe the many ship loads of ammonia, nitrates, potash, sulphur ane, guano that go to make the special fertilizers needed for the varied soils and conditions of the is- lands. Its chemists test the soils and then give the recipe for the particular blend of fertilizer that is needed. This great industry is one of the results of successful sugar planting in Hawaii, and without fertilizing, sugar growing in the Hawaiian Islands could not be successful. This company began operations in Mid- way Islands years ago, finally exhausting its guano beds, but securing others.

• . • roil& 8 THE MID-PACIFIC

Exterior.

Interior.

The Home Building in Honolulu of the American Factors, Ltd , Plantation Agents and Wholesale Merchants. THE MID-PACIFIC 9

Electric Lighting in Honolulu I

The general offices on King Street.

THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC COMPANY, LTD.

In Honolulu electricity costs eight horse power to the Federal Wireless cents per kilowatt, for the first two Station, fifteen miles distant, besides kilowatts per month, per lamp, and six current for lighting all private resi- cents thereafter. From the Hawaiian dences in Honolulu, as well as for Electric Company plant, power is fur- operating its own extensive ice plant. nished to the pineapple canneries (the A line has also been built to furnish largest canneries in the world) to the light and power to the great army post extent of seven hundred horse power, of Schofield Barracks, twenty miles dis- with another two hundred and fifty tant from Honolulu.

The power house and ice plant. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Trust Company in Hawaii

In Hawaii the functions of a Trust with foreign markets and world condi- Company embrace a business of a very tions. wide scope. The Waterhouse Trust It has been slower to arrive in Hawaii. Company has made a specialty of real perhaps, than elsewhere in the United estate and has developed some of the States, but, it is a noticeable fact that the most prominent sections of Honolulu, day of the individual as Executor and many of which it still manages, so that Trustee is fast waning, and thinking the Tourist finds it of great assistance, men, men of brains and ability, are nam- when arriving in Honolulu, to get in ing Trust Companies in their wills to touch with its real estate department, handle their estates. This is due to the where he will receive expert, prompt and perpetual character of a Trust Company, courteous advice and service. its experience in every line of business, Another prominent qualification of this and the practical assurance that the company is its stock and bond depart- estate will not be wasted or dissipated. ment. It is not only particularly qualified The Waterhouse Trust Company handles to advise its clients as to local securities, some of the largest estates in the Terri- but, by means of correspondents in the tory and it particularly qualifies for these principal mainland cities is in close touch duties.

The Trent Trust Company, though a to handle the work of Manager of Es- comparatively young organization, is tates, Executor, Fiduciary Agent, and one of the most popular financial insti- Agent for Non-Residents. It has the tutions in the Islands. It was organ- following departments : Trusts, Invest- ized in 1907, with a capital of $50,000, ments, Real Estate, Rents, Insurance, since increased to $100,000. According and Safe Deposit. to the last statement its capital, un- The Trent Trust's offices are located divided profits and surplus amounted to on the ground floor of 921 Fort Street. $235,886.30, and its gross assets to $1,074,224.60. the principal business thoroughfare of The company is efficiently organized Honolulu. THE MID-PACIFIC 11

The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Also the home of the General Electric Company in Hauiaii.

Honolulu is known around the world Half a century is an age in the life of for the manufacture of sugar mill ma- Honolulu. The first frame building is ' chinery. Much of this is made by Cat- not one hundred years old, and the first hardware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Engineers, who ton, Neill & Co., Ltd., Son, Ltd., was not founded until the build and erect sugar mill machinery. The year 185o, but since then, on the com- works are on South street, Honolulu, manding corner of Fort and King streets, while the offices and salesrooms are lo- it has remained the premier hardware cated in a new concrete building on Ala- concern in Hawaii. The entire three- kea and Queen streets, erected recently story building is taken up with extensive for this purpose. Here are seen the dis- displays of every kind of hardwafe. One plays of the General Electric Co., of which floor, however, is given over to crockery Catton, Neill & Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian and kitchen utensils, while in the base- agents, as well as for the leading gas en- ment even a ship might be fitted out with gines, water wheels, steam plows, pumps, its hardware, cordage, and roping needs. m—densers and tools manufactured in the This company is also agent for the Sher- United States. This is one of the oldest win-Williams house paints and represents engineering firms in Hawaii. many mainland hardware firms.

E. 0. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King Streets. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC

HOME FERTILIZING. their fertilizers are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Company. The The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company chemists analyze the soil and suggest the stores its fertilizers in the largest con- formulas. For the small planter this crete warehouse west of the Rockies. The company makes special fertilizers, and works of this company cover several acres the gardens of Honolulu are kept beauti- ful by the use of a special lawn fertilizer near Honolulu. The ingredients are pur- made by this company. Fertilizing alone chased in shipload lots, and the formulas has made Hawaii the garden of the Pa- adopted for the different plantations for cific. THE WORLD'S FIRST TEL EPHONE EXCHANGE. The Mutual Telephone Company of So rapid was the increase of subscribers Honolulu is the outgrowth of the first after the Automatic installation that it house to house telephone system in the became necessary to build and equip two world, installed in Honolulu in the late new exchanges, one in Kaimtiki and the seventies. This company has lately led other at Kalihi. Moreover the wireless the world in telephone improvements, service to the other islands being under was the first to install a commercial control of the Mutual Telephone Com- wireless system of telegraphy (between pany, as well as the telephone systems the Hawaiian Islands), and is preparing of the islands of Maui and Hawaii, it has to link up its exchanges on the different become possible to send and receive mes- islands of the group by wireless tele- sages between the islands by phone, and phony, as soon as this mode of communi- even cable messages are usually sent out cation is perfected. over the phone before the official mes- The present Mutual Telephone Com- sage is delivered. pany was incorporated in 1883 and used Australia sent a commission to the old manual switchboard until 1909, Hawaii to study and report on the Hon- when it was reorganized and the Auto- olulu Automatic exchange, and has since matic telephone system installed, which adopted the Automatic. At present the has proved the most satisfactory of any Inter-Island Wireless system is under lease to the Federal Government, but in the world, making it possible in cos- the Mutual Telephone Company is going mopolitan Honolulu for the many men of ahead with its improvements of service many Pacific races to call each other on each of the three larger islands : without having to strive with "Central." Oahu, Maui and Hawaii. THE MID--PACIFIC 13 Banking in Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King streets, Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the United States Government.

The Bank of Bishop & Company, The Yokohama Specie Bank, Limited, a branch of the famous Japanese insti- Ltd., popularly known as the "Bank of tution, with a subscribed capital of Superior Service", and the largest bank yen 100,000,000, or about $50,000,000, in the Islands, was organized in 1858 and a reserve fund of yen 50,000,000, and until its incorporation in 1919, was occupies its magnificent building at the known as The Banking House of corner of Merchant and Bethel streets, Bishop & Co. It has a Paid up Cap- opposite the postoffice and Bishop & ital of One Million Dollars and a Sur- Co. It is the most up-to-date fire-proof building in Hawaii, the interior being plus Fund of $344.883.93. finished in bronze marble. The operations of the Bank began The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., with the encouragement of the whal- is the most recently incorporated Trust ing business, at that time one of the Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders leading industries of the Islands, and are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its has ever been a power for Commercial directors and officers are men of ability, and Industrial Progress. integrity and high standing in the com- munity. The Company was incorporated The institution has correspondents in in June of 1911 with a capital of $1oo,000 all the principal cities of the world, and fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated through its connections can handle any doubling this capital. On June 3o, 1917, the capital of the Company was $200,000 ; foreign or domestic business entrusted surplus $io,000, and undivided profits to it. 853.306.75. Tt conducts a trust company Visitors are expected to use the business in all its various lines with offices in the Stangenwald Building, Mer- Bank Service in any way suited to chant Street, adjoining the Bank of Ha- their needs. waii. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. hama Specie Bank Building, Honolulu, Honolulu still relies for building ma- are engineers and constructors of build- terial on the mainland. For many years ings of every kind, from the smallest pri- the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained vate residences to the large and imposing its own line of clipper schooners that business blocks. Being made up of some brought down lumber from Puget Sound of the most prominent men in the Islands with which to "build Hawaii." Today it is not surprising that it secures some the firm occupies its own spacious block of the large and important contracts. on King Street, where every necessity The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu needed for building the home is supplied. was the work of this firm. In fact, often it is this firm that guaran- tees the contractor, and also assures the The Oahu Ice and Electric Company owner that his house will be well built and supplies the Army in Honolulu at a completed on time. Things are done on cheaper price than the United States Gov- a large scale in Hawaii ; so it is that one ernment can buy ice in Alaska. The firm undertakes to supply material from works and cold storage rooms are in the breakinob- of ground until the last coat the Kakaako district, but a phone mes- of paint is put on the completed building. sage to 1128 will answer every purpose, A spacious and splendidly equipped hard- as the company has its auto delivery ware department is one of the features trucks. of Lewers & Cooke's establishment. Old Kona Coffee is considered by con- The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers, noisseurs to have a delicious flavor all Machinery Merchants, and leading auto- mobile dealers, have their offices and store its own, and is the real Hawaiian coffee. in the Alexander Young Building, at the The best of the annual crop is secured corner of King and Bishop streets, and and aged by the McChesney Coffee Com- their magnificent automobile salesroom pany on Merchant Street, Honolulu, and garage just in the rear, facing on phone 2717. Mail orders of pound to Alakea Street. Here one may find almost anything. Phone No. 4901. five-pound sealed cans are packed with The Pacific Engineering Company, the aged Kona Coffee and sent to friends Ltd., with spacious quarters in the Yoko- or customers on the mainland.

THE MID-PACIFIC 15

••■•■■•••■•• ASIA The American Magazine on the Orient

knowledge—a knowledge born out of sympathetic and vital interest in the life and development of other races. Amer- ica must understand the Orient. if a League of Nations or any kindred plan of international co-operation is to suc- ceed. America must know the Orient if the present period of material progress our country is now entering—the period of great foreign commerce and shipping —is to shine as brilliantly as the years of magnificent internal development we have seen. ASIA brings monthly into your home or office the Orient's contributions to art. and industry, commerce and wealth, re- ligion and thought, and the part it is to play in the progress of civilization and world Peace. ASIA is not on general sale. The best way to receive it is through membership ASIA discusses the most immediate and far-reaching Eastern policies. Its articles in the American Asiatic Association. inform as well as delight you. Singly ASIA sells for 35 cents. Through The Ancient East with its philosophy, membership you receive ASIA for one religion, art and commerce is coming into year. its own again. Sign and return the application form. Let your family grow up with ASIA which unfolds to them the snow-capped Himalayas, the long sweep of the Yang- tse and the wide steppes of Siberia. : Secretary, American Asiatic Assn. Asia gives you a better understanding : 627 Lexington Ave., New York. of world events and world problems. I desire to become an Associate Germany's dream of Asiatic domination Member of the American Asiatic is over. Now America awakens to its new posi- : Association. ' I send 3.5o for one tion as a great world power—requiring : year's dues, and of this amount $3.25 all the genius of its people to understand : will be used for payment on a year's and solve the difficulties of international : subscription for the magazine, ASIA politics and world organizations, as well : Name as to accept the vast possibilities now : Address presented for material achievement thru foreign commerce. : Business or Profession The basis of such understanding is

16 FHE MID-PACIFIC

Round About Honolulu

■ ■ ■ A.M.M...... M••■■Mo.a.01 • • •••••J Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King The Thompson Optical Institute is Streets, is the actual center of life and just what its name implies, and occupy- activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- ing a location on Hotel Street opposite section of the tram lines, the shoppers, Bishop Park and the Young Hotel, it business men, and tourists await their is convenient to all. Here the eye is cars, chatting at the open soda fountain, tested and here all kinds of lenses are that is the feature of the Chambers Drug ground and repaired, for the Thompson Store. Here the tourist or stranger is Optical Institute is the most complete advised as to the sights of the city, and place of its kind in Hawaii. The glasses supplied with any perfumes, candies or of visitors are quickly repaired, and those drugs he may need during his stay. Cham- of residents kept in order. bers' Drug Store is one of the institutions Honolulu is so healthy that people of Honolulu. Phone No. 1291. don't usually die there, but when they do The largest of the very fashionable they phone in advance to Henry H. Wil- shops in the Alexander Young Building, liams, 1374 Nuuanu St., phone number occupying the very central portion, is that 1408, and he arranges the after details. of the Hawaiian News Company. Here If you are a tourist and wish to be inter- the ultra-fashionable stationery of the red in your own plot on the mainland, latest design is kept in stock. Every Williams will embalm you ; or he will ar- kind of paper, wholesale or retail,. is sup- range all details for interment in Hono- plied, as well as printers' and binders' lulu. Don't leave the Paradise of the supplies. There are musical instruments Pacific for any other, but if you must, let of every kind in stock, even to organs and your friends talk it over with Williams. pianos, and the Angelus Player Piano. Whatever you do, do not fail to visit and this concern is constantly adding new the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on features and new stock. The business King Street. Early morning is the best man will find his every need in the office time for this, when all the multi-colored supplied by the Hawaiian News Company fish of Hawaiian waters are presented to merely on a call over the phone, and this view and every nationality on the islands is true also of the fashionable society is on parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is leader, whether her needs are for a bridge the leading spirit and founder of the party, a dance, or just plain stationery. Oahu Fish Market, which is a Chinese The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News institution of which the city is proud. Company are interesting A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, City Mill Company, of which he is Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. treasurer and manager. This plant at Its auto wagons deliver each morning Queen and Kekaulike streets is one of fresh from the oven, the delicious baker's Honolulu's leading enterprises, doing a bread and rolls consumed in Honolulu, flourishing lumber and mill business. while all the grocery stores carry Love's The Sweet Shop, on Hotel Street, op- Bakery crisp, fresh crackers and biscuits posite the Alexander Young, is the one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. that come from the oven daily. Love's Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian Bakery has the most complete and up to singers and players, and here at every date machinery and equipment in the Ter- hour may be- enjoyed at very reasonable ritory. prices the delicacies of the season. THE MID-PACIFIC 17

The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Honolulu Lava Brick Com- pany. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.

Stevedoring in Honolulu is attended on several spacious floors. Phone No. to by the firm of McCabe, Hamilton and 2111. Renny Co., Ltd., 20 South Queen Street. The leading music store in Hawaii is Men of almost every Pacific race are employed by this firm, and the men of on King and Fort Streets—the Berg- each race seem fitted for some particular strom Music Company. No home is com- part of the work, so that quick and effi- plete in Honolulu without an ukulele, a cient is the loading and unloading of piano and a Victor talking machine. The vessels in Honolulu. Bergstrom Music Company, with its big store on Fort Street, will provide you With the wood that is used for building with these—a Chickering, a Weber, a in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen Kroeger for your mansion, or a tiny up- Street, Phone 2105, have for generations right Boudoir for your cottage ; and if supplied the people of Honolulu and those you are a transient it will rent you a pi- on the other islands ; also their buildings ano. The Bergstrom Music Company, and paints. Their office is on Queen phone 2331. Street, near the Inter-Island S. N. Com- The best thing on ice in Honolulu is pany Building, and their lumber yards soda water. The Consolidated Soda extend right back to the harbor front, Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, where every kind of hard and soft wood are the largest manufacturers of delight- grown on the coast is landed by the ful soda beverages in the Territory. schooners that ply from Puget Sound. Aerated waters cost from 35 cents a dozen The city's great furniture store, that of bottles up. The Consolidated Co. are J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large por- agents for Hires Root Beer and put up a tion of the Lewers & Cooke Block on Kola Mint aerated water that is delicious, King Street. Here the latest styles in besides a score of other flavors. Phone home and office furniture arriving con- 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any stantly from San Francisco are displayed store. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand

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Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's throughout the Dominion for the benefit wonderland. There is no other place in of the tourist, for whom she has also the world that offers such an aggrega- built splendid roads and wonderful moun- tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The tain tracks. New Zealand is splendidly West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are served by the Government Railways, in every way more magnificent and awe- which sell the tourist for a very low inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. rate, a ticket that entitles him to travel Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic on any of .the railways for from one to panorama of unrivalled beauty from end two months. In the lifetime of a single to end. Its hot springs and geysers in man (Sir James Mills of Dunedin, New the Rotorua district on the North Island Zealand) a New Zealand steamship com- have no equal anywhere. In this district pany has been built up that is today the the native Maoris still keep up their fourth largest steamship company under ancient dances or haka haka, and here the , British flag, and larger than any may be seen the wonderfully carved steamship company owned in America, houses of the aboriginal New Zealanders. with her ioo,000,000 population, or in There are no more beautiful lakes any- Japan with her 50p00p00 population. where in the world than are the Cold New Zealand is a land of wonders, and Lakes of the South Island, nestling as may be reached from America by the they do among mountains that rise sheer Union Steamship Company boats from ten thousand feet. Among these moun- Vancouver, San Francisco or Honolulu. tains are some of the largest and most The Oceanic Steamship Company also scenic glaciers in the world. In these transfers passengers from Sydney. The Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Government Tourist Bureau has commo- twelve thousand feet high. On its slopes dious offices in Auckland and Wellington the Government has built a hotel to which as well as the other larger cities of New there is a motor car service. Zealand. Direct information and pam- New Zealand was the first country to phlets may be secured by writing to the perfect the government tourist bureau. New Zealand Government Tourist Bu- She has built hotels and rest houses reau. Wellington, New Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 19

New South Wales

Mt. Kosciusko in January.

Australia's Holiday State. tourist, or provides such opportunities for pleasurable and diversified holiday. A warm Australian welcome awaits the tourist in Sunny New South Wales. New South Wales is a Paradise for He is offered a wide and wonderful those in search of Health, Rest and choice of scenic attractions. Recreation. From Sydney or from New Castle, The Government Tourist Bureau is the two chief ports of the State the doing everything within its power to tourist from overseas may reach with- promote tourist travel within the State in a few hours at most, of rail travel, and make it more attractive. such widely divergent scenic wonders Your holiday arrangements can be as National Parks, the Blue Moun- made convenient and satisfying by the tains, the Seashore Resorts, the Trout staff of the Bureau who will be glad- Streams, the Snowfields, the Limestone to furnish illustrated booklets, and pro- Caves, the Hawkesbury, the Illawarra, vide detailed information as to fares, the Northern Rivers, the Southern accommodation, transport, etc. They Highlands, the Lakes District, the are public servants and their expert Tablelands, besides many places of his- services are yours for the asking. E. toric interest- H. PALMER, Director, New South Wales Government Tourist Bureau and No other country in the world has Resorts, Challis House (Opp.' G.P.O.), greater charm. and attraction for the Sydney. 20 THE MID-PACIFIC

South Australia and Tasmania I I

SOUTH AUSTRALIA. TASMANIA. From San Francisco, Vancouver and Tasmania is one of the finest tourist from Honolulu there are two lines of fast resorts in the southern hemisphere, but steamships to Sydney, Australia. ten hours' run from the Australian main- From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- land. Between Launceston and Melbourne tralia, there is a direct railway line on the fastest turbine steamer in Australia which concession fares are granted tour- runs thrice weekly and there is a regular ists arriving from overseas, and no service from Sydney to Hobart. visitor to the Australian Common- The island is a prolific orchard country and has some of the finest fruit growing wealth can afford to neglect visit- tracts in the world. The climate is cooler ing the southern central state of than the rest of Australia. Australia ; for South Australia is The lakes and rivers are nearly all the state of superb climate and unrivalled stocked with imported trout, which grow resources. Adelaide, the "Garden City to weights not reached in other parts of the South," is the Capital, and there is of Australia. a Government Intelligence and Tourist The Tasmanian Government deals Bureau, where the tourist, investor, or directly with the tourist. Hobart, the settler is given accurate information, capital—one of the most beautiful cities guaranteed by the government, and free in the world—is the headquarters of the to all. From Adelaide this Bureau con- Tasmanian Government Tourist Depart- ducts rail, river and motor excursions to ment; and the bureau will arrange for almost every part of the state. Tourists transport of the visitor to any part of are sent or conducted through the mag- the island. A shilling trip to a local nificent mountain and pastoral scenery of resort is not too small for the Govern- South Australia. The government makes ment Bureau to handle, neither is a tour travel easy by a system of coupon tickets of the whole island too big. There is a and facilities for caring for the comfort branch office in Launceston performing of the tourist. Excursions are arranged the same functions. to the holiday resorts ; individuals or The Tasmanian Government has an parties are made familiar with the in- up-to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 dustrial resources, and the American as William Street, next door to the New well as the Britisher is made welcome if Zealand Government office, where guide- he cares to make South Australia his books, tickets, and information can be home. The South Australian Intelligence and procured. The address of the Sydney office is 262 George Street, and Tasmania Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on also has its own offices in Brisbane and King William Street, Adelaide, and the government has printed many illustrated Perth. books and pamphlets describing the scenic For detailed information regarding and industrial resources of the state. A Tasmania, either as to travel or settle- postal card or letter to the Intelligence ment, enquirers should write to Mr. and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will se- E. T. Emmett, the Director of the Tas- cure the books and information you may manian Government Tourist Dept., desire. Hobart, Tasmania. THE MID-PACIFIC 21

ax.■•■•••■••■■■•••••••■••■••■••••••■•-■••••••■•••••■••••■•••••••••••■•••■■••••••••••■••••■••■■1 Honolulu Japan

The Japan Magazine is a Rep- resentative Monthly of things Japanese. The Japan Magazine is published in English and has as contributors Jap- anese Authors, Statesmen and Scien- tists, who are authorities on the subjects with which they deal. The Magazine is distinctively Japanese in form, printed on Japanese paper, and handsomely illustrated with half-tones on art paper. The Japan Magazine main- tains a high standard of excellence, por- traying Japanese Life, Literature, Art, Industry, Politics, Commerce and Civili- zation, frankly and accurately represent- ing the nation's progress, past and pres- THE REGAL. ent. Occupying one of the most prominent One Number of The Japan Magazine corners in the shopping district of Hono- is equal educationally to a Year's Mem- lulu the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner bership in the Asiatic Society of Japan. of Fort and Hotel Streets, is a distinct credit to the American progress in these On sale at Brentano's, New York City, islands. The stock in this store has been A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago, Ill., carefully selected. Smith & McCance, Boston, Mass., Aoki Taiseo-Do, San Francisco, Cal., and The Hub is the reasonably priced cloth- Yorozu & Co., Sacramento, Cal., or send ing store in Honolulu, Clifford Spitzer direct to The Japan Magazine Company, is manager, and for a decade has studied Tokyo, Japan. the supplying of men in Hawaii with Subscription : 6 yen a year, post paid, suitable clothing and men's furnishings. single copies 50 sen. A new store has just been completed for Proprietor: the Hub, at 69-71 S. Hotel St., nr. Fort. Editor: Shigenobu Hirayama. Dr. J. Ingram Bryan. 22 ' THE MID-PACIFIC Entertainment In Honolulu I

The Island Curio the hills, on the car line. Rates from Co. on Hotel St., $50 a month up, $3.00 a day ; perfect ho- opposite the Alex. tel service. Miss M. Johnson, Manager, Phone 2876. Young Hotel, is The Land of the Lanai. Hawaii's o 1 d e s t, largest and most reliable Hawaiian and South Sea Curio establish- ment. D. A. Mc- Namarra, Prop. The Liberty, the Bijou and the Empire are the three large theatres in Honolulu providing either film features or dra- matic performances. The Liberty is one of the finest theatres in the Pacific, and The Halekulani, Hotel and Bunga- is well worth a visit on account of its art lows, 2199 Kalia Road, "on the Beach collection alone. at Waikiki." Famous hau tree lanai The Pan-Pacific Gardens, on Kuakini along the ocean front. Rates, from $3.00 street, near Nuuanu Avenue, constitute per day to $75.00 per month and up, one of the finest Japanese Tea Gardens American plan. Clifford Kimball. immaginable. Here some wonderful Phone 6101. Japanese dinners are served, and visitors The Donna, 1262 to 1286 Beretania St., are welcomed to the gardens at all times. phone 2480 ; rates $47.50 a month up, Adjoining these gardens are the wonder- or $3.00 a day. This series of cottages, ful Liliuokalani gardens and the series bungalows and homes, in the heart of of waterfalls. Phone 5611. the residence district, is on the direct The Colonial, palatial house and grounds, car line to the city or the beach, its 1451 to 1473 Emma street, in the most splendid management for years has beautiful section of the city within a few made it known everywhere about the moments' walk of the business center or Pacific.

Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside Hotels). THE MID-PACIFIC 23

Honolulu for the Tourist

"Jeffs" is the word most familiar to most instances, prices are the same as on every society leader in Honolulu. From the Mainland. the start "Jeffs" took its place as the The Quality Inn on Hotel Street, high class woman's outfitter in Hawaii. near Fort, is aptly named, not quite a The large spacious store at Beretania restaurant, it serves dainty lunches and and Fort streets lends itself splendidly afternoon teas as well as light breakfasts . to the displays direct, even now, from Its candies and soft drinks are the best, Paris as well as from New York. and dealing directly with Rawley's Home designs are a specialty at Dairy, its ice cream, eggs and milks are "Jeffs" It was "Jeffs" design for the pure and fresh almost hourly. For the Waikiki bathing suit that was adjudged shopper there is no more enticing cafe by the vote of the people to be the pret- in Honolulu than the Quality Inn. tiest and most suitable bathing suit for The Home of Linens, Ltd., in Hono- the tropics. lulu, formerly Whitney & Marsh. Ltd., Not only are the leaders of fashion in is in the very center of the shopping dis- Hawaii outfitted at "Jeffs" but tourists trict on Fort street. and visitors quickly find their way to this Here will be found the largest assort- most interesting exhibition of the latest ment of LINENS in the Territory, Rad- fashion models of the American metrop- moor Hosiery, Ladies Home Journal olis. Patterns, La Camille, Mme. Lyra, Red- The prices at "Jeffs" are in accord fern & Warner's Corsets, Ready-to-wear, with the after-war purse. This house has Underwear, and a general line of fancy its head office at 1170 Broadway, New and staple dry goods. York, and the Honolulu branch is the dis- The oldest established Dry Goods tributing center for the entire Pacific. House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situated The Office Supply Company, on Fort St., on Hotel Street near Fort. For over a is the home in Hawaii of the Remington quarter of a century this store has held Typewriter Co., and of the Globe-Wer- an enviable reputation for high-class nicke filing and book cases. Every kind merchandise. The beautiful court dresses worn at the receptions and balls in the of office furniture is kept in stock, as days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were well as a complete line of office station- made by this firm. Then, as now, Sachs' ary and every article that the man of was the rendezvous for ladies who de- business might need. sired the very best in Silks and Dress If you have films, or need supplies, the Fabrics, Tapestries, Draperies. Linens, Laces and Millinery. Honolulu Photo Supply Company, Ko- "The Blaisdell" is the newest and most dak Headquarters for the Territory, on Fort Street, develops and prints within a up-to-date hotel in Honolulu. It is run on the European plan, being situated in few hours, when necessary, at a special the heart of the city, (Fort Street and rate. All photo supplies, films, film packs, Chaplain Lane). It is near all the down- plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- town clubs, cafes, and restaurants. The graphs — everything photographic — al- rates are moderate — running water in ways in stock. Fresh films„ packed by every room. Public baths as well as the private, have hot and cold water. Tele- the factory, in handy sealed tins for use phones in all the rooms, elevator and in The tropics, without extra chai ge. In pleasant lanais. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC

-01••■•■■•••••••■■■■•••••■■■•••■•M•■•••■•••■■••■••■■••■ Progressive Honolulu

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THE LIBERTY HOUSE. THE B. F. DILLINGHAM CO., LTD., The Liberty House succeeds the firm of B. F. Ehlers & Co., which was estab- The Insurance Department of The B. lished in Honolulu as far back at 1852, F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., represents all growing from small beginnings to be- lines of insurance, being agents for a come the largest dry goods store in Ha- number of the best and most reliable in- waii. After an honored career under surance companies in America. the old name it bore for sixty-five years, Few there are in all America who have on July 4th, 1918, the name was changed not bad friends and relatives benefited to The Liberty House, and under this through policies in the Aetna Life In- title in future will be known Hawaii's pioneer dry goods house. surance Company, and affiliated com- The Liberty House is in fact a de- panies, the Aetna Casualty and Surety partment of the American Factors Co., Co. and the Automobile Insurance Co. of Ltd. It conducts the retail dry goods Hartford, Conn. These insure you in business of this concern and being backed case of accident, ill health, liability and by one of the greatest financial prwers even workingmen's compensation, while in Hawaii, it can afford to carry the your automobile is totally insured against largest stock and variety of dry goods fire, theft, collision, loss of use or dam- in the territory. Recently The Liberty House has been age of any kind to any part of the ma- reconstructed ; its spacious windows on chine. Fort Street, really extensive stages, are In the matter of life insurance the B. used not only for remarkable displays of F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., has arranged to dry goods and fashions, but also for offer policies in the safest and surest patriotic displays, dioramas of the war's American concerns, among those in progress, or realistic settings illustrating the actual work of the Red Cross nurses which it offers excellent policies are the on the field. War Posters sent from the West Coast San Francisco Life Insur- Pan-American to the Pan-Pacific Union ance Co. are displayed here as are exhibits from In fire insurance, the Hartford, Conn., the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, so is perhaps the best known of American that everyone stops at The Liberty fire insurance companies, the Phoenix House. Fire Insurance Co., Providence-Wash- The people of Hawaii know The Lib- erty House through all its various floors ington, New York Underwriters and the and departments, it is the first place to Atlas Assurance Co., Ltd., all of which attract visitors. This firm makes a concerns the B. F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., specialty of ladies' apparel and of bring- represents in Hawaii. ing the latest fashions to Hawaii. Life, fire, marine, automobile and ev- The year round silk and woolen suits, skirts, waists and all the wearing apparel ery kind of property insurance is under- of women are rushed through at fre- written by the B. F. Dillingham Co., quent intervals from New York by Wells Ltd. A generous portion of its office Fargo Express, being only twelve to space in the Stangenwald Building on fourteen days in transit, so that the fash- Merchant street, Honolulu, is given ions on Fort Street are only a few days over to the insurance department. behind those of Broadway. 0 t ktItaftteAta ttan-Parifir Union THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION is an organization representing Governments of Pacific lands, with which are affiliated Chambers of Commerce, and kindred bodies, working for the advancement of Pacific States and Communities, and a greater coopera- tion among and between the people of all races in Pacific lands. HONORARY PRESIDENTS Woodrow Wilson President of the United States William N. Hughes Prime Minister of Australia W. F. Massey Prime Minister of New Zealand Hsu Shih-chang President of China Sir Robert Borden Premier of Canada HONORARY VICE-PRESIDENTS Franklin K. Lane Secretary of the Interior, U. S. A. John Barrett Director-General Pan-American Union Prince J. K. Kalanianaole Delegate to Congress from Hawaii The Governor-General of Java. The Governor-General of the Philippines. The Premiers of Australian States and of British Columbia. President Hon. C. J. McCarthy, Governor of Hawaii Secretary Alexander Hume Ford, Honolulu The Pan-Pacific Union is incorporated with an International Board of Trustees, representing every race and nation of the Pacific. The trustees may be added to or replaced by appointing representatives of the different countries cooperating in the Pan-Pacific Union. The following are the main objects set forth in the charter of the Pan-Pacific Union: 1. To call in conference delegates from all Pacific peoples for the purpose of discussing and furthering the interests common to Pacific nations. 2. To maintain in Hawaii and other Pacific lands bureaus of information and education concerning matters of interest to the people of the Pacific, and to disseminate to the world information of every kind of progress and opportunity in Pacific lands, and to promote the comfort and interests of all visitors. 3. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the best interests of the land of their adoption, and, through them, to spread abroad about, the Pacific the friendly spirit of inter- racial cooperation. 4. To assist and to aid the different races in lands of the Pacific to cooperate in local affairs, to raise produce, and to create home manufactured goods. 5. To own real estate, erect buildings needed for housing exhibits ; provided and maintained by the respective local committees. 6. To maintain a Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, and Art Gallery. 7. To create dioramas, gather exhibits, books and other Pan-Pacific material of educational or instructive value. 8. To promote and conduct a Pan-Pacific Exposition of the handicrafts of the Pacific peoples, of their works of art, and scenic dioramas of the most beautiful bits of Pacific lands, or illustrating great Pacific industries. . 9. To establish and maintain a permanent college and "clearing house" of in- formation (printed and otherwise) concerning the lands, commerce, peoples, and trade opportunities in countries of the Pacific, creating libraries of commercial knowledge, and training men in this commercial knowledge of Pacific lands. 10. To secure the cooperation and support of Federal and State governments, chambers of commerce, city governments, and of individuals. 1 1 . To enlist for this work of publicity in behalf of Alaska, the Territory of Hawaii, and the Philippines, Federal aid and financial support, as well as similar coopera- tion and support from all Pacific governments. 12. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closer friendly and commercial contact and relationship. Tim iliagazinr Official Organ of the Pan-Pacific Union. Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.50 In advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.75. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine.

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Feeding the Temple Pigeons in Japan.

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