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Clothing and Fashion in Ghanaian Culture: a Case Study Among the Akans

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Clothing and Fashion in Ghanaian Culture: a Case Study Among the Akans CLOTHING AND FASHION IN GHANAIAN CULTURE: A CASE STUDY AMONG THE AKANS BY BERNARD EDEM DZRAMEDO B.A. Industrial Art (Textiles) A Dissertation submitted to the School of Graduate Studies, Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY (AFRICAN ART AND CULTURE) Faculty of Art, College of Art and Social Sciences FEBRUARY, 2009 © 2009, Department of General Arts DECLARATION I hereby declare that this submission is my own work towards the award of PhD and that, to the best of my knowledge, it contains no material previously published by another person nor material which has been accepted for the award of any other degree of the University, except where due acknowledgement has been made in the text. Bernard Edem Dzramedo ….……………………. …………………….. Student Name and ID Signature Date Certified by: Dr. Opamshen Osi Agyeman ………………………. …………………... Supervisor Signature Date Certified by: Dr. Joe Adu – Agyem ……………………….. ……………………. Head of Department Signature Date i ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Perseverance is the key that breaks the bone to challenges and difficulties that hinder successes. Thanks to the personalities that assisted the researcher through interviews and questionnaire, such as heads of institutions of learning, heads of private and public establishments in line with the clothing and fashion industries, traditional and other religious leaders. Notable among them are cultural officers such as Mr. Akwasi Asare Anomah, regional registrar of Ashanti Region House of Chiefs; Mr. Alex Sefah Twerefour, the director of Centre for National Culture in Greater Accra and Mr. F.K. Adjei director for Centre for National Culture in Kumasi, Ashanti Region. My uttermost gratitude goes to my Supervisor, Dr. Osei O. Agyeman for his incessant assistance, advice, correction and suggestions that directed the study to its logical conclusion. Special thanks and gratitude go to Mrs. Ulzen Appiah, for her motherly encouragement and recommendations. To my beloved parents, Mr. G. K. Dzramedo and Mrs Cecilia Vortia- Dzramedo, I say big thanks for their financial support. Also to my siblings Akorfa, Kwasi, Fiam, Dodzi, Yorm, Dziwornu and Korkor, I say thanks for their encouragement and support. I wish to render my heart-felt thanks to Miss Ashitey, a lecturer at Takoradi Polytechnic, Mr. Abdul Aziz, a lecturer at Tamale Polytechnic, Mr. Bashiru who is a lecturer at Kumasi Polytechnic and all others who helped me during my interaction with fashion students of the various polytechnics visited as well as other practitioners in the field of clothing and textiles. I equally acknowledge Miss Yormabu Mawufemor, Miss Mordzifa Lina, Mr. Asinyo Benjamin, Mr. Soglo and especially Miss Regina Datsomor for their support, ii encouragement and assistance in various ways towards the completion of this dissertation. May the almighty God bless and reward their efforts. Special thanks are extended to all colleagues on campus and those pursuing the same program with me for their contributions, support and encouragement towards the completion of this work. I wish to thank all those who took time to answer my questions, made suggestions, and donated photographs during my fieldwork towards the success of this thesis. 02-02-2009 D.E.B. iii ABSTRACT Clothing generally is an area of great interest to mankind, but its relation to the changing cultural and its significances in the moral drive of Ghanaians generally and the Akans in particular, is perhaps the least talked about by researchers and scholars. The desire to link tradition and morality to modern cultural dynamism in relation to its expression in the dress-life of Ghanaian youth is limited. This has probably contributed to provocative, dangerous and promiscuous life-styles of today’s youth in Ghana. Moral break down with regards to clothing is obvious among the Ghanaian youth and it does not speak well of us as a country. Moral codes are based on traditional and cultural acceptable factors regarding what is decent or indecent in the social domain. The researcher therefore attempts to assess the changing trends and significance of traditional systems regarding clothing and adornment. The moral standing of the cultural system relating to clothing and fashion becomes a yardstick of morality to bring to bare the importance of realising situations and addressing them correctly, rather than leaving it to the ‘game of changes in fashion trends’. To give a firm indication and implication for immediate action to be taken, this dissertation sought to know the trends of events in the history of clothes, link it to changing trends in recent times in Akan society, both indigenous and contemporary to assess the moral standing of the youth in particular within Akan society on the matter of decency in clothes and the way forward. The researcher employs qualitative and descriptive methods of research, using instruments such as interviews, questionnaires, observations and photographs. The population of the study was centred mainly on traditional leaders, learning institutions and the Ghanaian youth in general. The study is captured in six chapters, besides the first, second and third chapters that dealt with the introduction, review of related literature and methodology iv respectively, the fourth chapter described and analysed data gathered from the field study into eight sub headings. These areas addressed historical evidences of clothing in Ghana; clothing associated with traditional institutions: its relevance in colour and beauty concepts among the Akans; clothing and fashion accessories; relevance of colour in Ghanaian clothing and fashion styles; beauty, body shapes and its effects on clothing; body marks, influence of foreign fashion on the culture and fashion of Ghana, with its inappropriate use of clothing among the youth; morality and modesty in Ghanaian fashion and culture: possible health risks associated with body arts. Chapter five dealt with the interpretation of findings with regard to the various ways of collecting and analysing the historical information. These were explained, their significance and changes regarding clothing that are associated with traditional institutions are equally considered. The questionnaire was vividly analysed and interpreted using Statistical Package for Social Sciences (SPSS) data analysis instrument to assess the trend of responses from the respondents regarding the various areas of the questions asked. On this note, some main findings were realised, which were elaborated on at the end of this chapter. The last chapter (six) summarised the findings of the study, tested the hypotheses, drew a conclusion and gave recommendations based on the findings. At the end, the findings revealed that, tremendous changes had occurred in the historical trends of clothing and fashion among Ghanaians in general and Akans in particular over the centuries. The changes which are mainly being influenced largely in recent times by foreign styles of fashion are impacting negatively on the moral and cultural lives of the Akans particularly and Ghanaians in general, contributing to undesirable practices among the youth. It is believed that, the situation can be controlled if drastic measures are taken by meaningful Ghanaians and the researcher’s recommendations are given consideration. v TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Acknowledgements ii Abstract iv Table of Contents vi List of Figures x List of Tables xii List of Plates xiv CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION 1.1 Background of the Study 1 1.2 Statement of Problem 5 1.3 Objectives 6 1.4 Importance of the Study 6 1.5 Hypotheses 7 1.6 Delimitation 8 1.7 Limitation 9 1.8 Definition of Terms 9 1.9 Abbreviation 13 1.10 Statements of Assumption 13 1.11 Methodology 13 1.12 Research Tools and Instruments 14 1.13 Facilities Available 14 1.14 Organization of the Rest of the Chapters 14 vi 1.15 Historical Background of the Akans 17 1.15.1 Vegetation and Agriculture 19 1.15.2 Art and Craft 19 1. 15.3 Economic Activities 21 CHAPTER TWO: REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE 2.1 Culture 24 2.2 Clothing and Fashion 27 2.2.1 Clothing Witnessed among Other Parts of the West African Sub-Region 38 2.2.2 Possible Negative Effects of Clothing 49 2.3 Historical Significance of Hairstyles and Accessories 51 2.4 Concept of Beauty 53 2.4.1 African Concept of Beauty 57 2.4.2 Western Concept of Beauty 63 2.5 Types of Fashion Accessories 65 2.6 Significance of Tattoos, Scarification and Body paintings 71 2.7 Headdresses and their Significance 73 2.8 Colour Symbolism in Fashion 75 CHAPTER THREE: METHODOLOGY 3.1 Research Instruments and Methods 80 3.2 Library Research conducted 81 3.3 Archival Research work 82 3.4 Museum Research conducted 82 vii 3.5 Sampling Methodology 82 3.6 Descriptive Method 83 3.7 Population of the Study 84 3.8 Justification of Samples Selected 87 3.9 Instruments for Data Collection 90 3.10 Design and Administration of Questionnaire 90 3.11 Responses from questionnaire 93 3.12 Interviews Conducted 93 3.13 Observation 94 3.14 Data Collection Processes 95 CHAPTER FOUR: DOCUMENTATION OF HISTORICAL TRENDS IN CLOTHING AND FASHION AMONG GHANAIANS 4.1. Historical Evidences of Clothing in Ghana 96 4.1.1 Forms of Clothing that Existed in the Gold Coast 98 (now, the southern part of Ghana) 4.1.2 Trends of Clothing among the Akans of Ghana 103 4.1.3 Men and Women Clothing within the Northern Regions 110 4.2 Clothing Associated with Traditional Institutions: Its Relevance in Colour and Beauty Concepts among the Akans 111 4.2.1 Clothing
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