Purchased by the AVary Stuart Boor Fund Founded A.D. 1893 Cooper Union Library^ THE HERITAGE OF DRESS PLATE I. Frontispiec Very early man in Java. {See page 5.) THE HERITAGE OF DRESS BEING NOTES ON THE HISTORY AND EVOLUTION OF CLOTHES BY WILFRED MARK WEBB FELLOW OF THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON GKNERAL SECRETARY OF THE SELBORNE SOCIETY EDITOR OF " KNOWLEDGE " WITH TWELVE PLATES AND ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTY-NINE FIGURES IN THE TEXT NEW AND REVISED EDITION LONDON Zbc Uimes :Booft Club 1912 TO HIS WIFE HILDA E. WEBB AS A SMALL TOKEN OF AFFECTION THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED BY THE WRITER 20IOST PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION HTHE HERITAGE OF DRESS having been out of print for some time, the writer has taken the opportunity afforded him of issuing a second edition, and at the same time of making certain alterations in and additions to the text. Through the efforts of the present publishers the book has been produced in a compacter and handier form without curtailing it in any way, while the price has been halved ; a fact which should tend to carry the volume into those " quiet places " where Ruskin tells us science only lives " with odd people, mostly poor," WILFRED MARK WEBB. Odstock, Hanwell, April, 1912. PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION TT would be difficult to find a subject of""more universal ^ interest than that of dress, and hosts of books have been written which deal \vT.th the attire that has been adopted at different times and by various nations or social classes. The ornamental and artistic sides of the question have also received much consideration, but the volumes that have appeared serve chiefly as works of reference. The present book aims at being of more immediate interest and usefulness ; it starts with things as they are, and is really a popular contribution to the natural history of man. On aU sides the advantages of observation and the need for the nature-study method in education are being rightly urged, but there is a tendency to narrow the pm-view. An\'i:hing in our environment is worthy of notice, and though attention is well directed towards that which is least artificial, we should not leave man and his works altogether on one side. There is material for observation, research, and deduction, even in a bowler hat and a cut-away coat. One of the pleasantest features in connection with the making of this book has been the kind and ready help which I have received from all sides. Here and there throughout the text the names of friends and correspondents who have given their assistance have been mentioned. To these I offer my hearty thanks, as well as to the following, who wdth suggestions, information, or with material for illustrations, have contributed in no small way to the interest of the book : Messrs. Fownes Brothers & Company, Mr. Allan A. Hooke, Mr. W. S. Ward, X THE HERITAGE OF DRESS Mr. Karl, of Messrs. Nathan & Company, Messrs. Tress & Company, Messrs. Lincoln & Bennett, Mr. M. D. Hill, the Rev. A. W. Upcott, Head Master of Christ's Hospital, Miss Clark, Miss Hodgson, the Rev. R. Ashington Bullen, Mr. Henry Miller, of the Church Association, Mr. Ravenscroft, of Messrs. Ede, Sons & Ravenscroft, Mr. Paley Baildon, Mr. George Hertslet, of the Lord Chamberlain's Office, Messrs. Wilkinson & Company, Mr. C. M. Miihlberg, Mr. W. S. Parker, of Messrs. Debenhams, Ltd., Capt. H. Trench, Major J. W. Mallet, of The Army and Navy Gazette, Mr. Basil White, of Messrs. Hawkes & Company, Mr. W. H. Jesson, Messrs. Souter & Company, Mr. William Lawrence, Mr. Heather Bigg, Dr. J. Cantlie, and the Rt. Hon. Viscountess Harberton. A glance at the bibliography, which is given on pages 271-3, will show the principal books and papers to which reference has been made. In connection with the illustrations, special thanks must be given to Monsieur Maurice Sand, the Editor of The Review of the University of Brussels, for his kind permission to reproduce a number of the figures used to illustrate a translation of Sir George Darwin's article. These are Figures 14, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 30, 31, 33, 46, 48, 62, 63, and 82. Acknow- ledgments are due to Mr. St. John Hope for Figures 86-8, to Messrs. A. & C. Black for Figures 123 and 124 and 132 and 133, and to Messrs. Prewett & Co. for Figures iii and 112. For the original of Plate II, I am indebted to the kindness of Captain R. Ford, of Plate III to Mr. Henry Stevens ; Plate IV has been taken from a brass rubbing in Rugby School Museum, through the kind offices of Mr. J. M. Hardwich. I have to thank Mr. R. Bamber for the original of Plate VIII, which was obtained through his instrumentality. Figure B of Plate IX was kindly contributed by the Rev. A. W. Upcott, Head Master of Christ's Hospital, and Figures b and c on Plate X were copied from Moseley's " Voyage of the ' Challenger,' " by the kind permission of Mr. John Murray, PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION xi while Figure d is due to the courtesy of General Robley. Plate XI is reprinted from The Reliquary, by the kind per- mission of Messrs, Bemrose and Sons, and the source of other illustrations is acknowledged beneath them, while the classic collection of pictures which were brought together by the late " Mr. F. W. Fairholt to illustrate his " Costume in England has proved, as wiU be seen, of the utmost service. In conclusion, I have much pleasure in calling attention to the time and care which Mr. W. J. Webb has expended upon the figures, which are a feature of the book ; and I must mention the willing help which I have been afforded in a number of details by Miss Amy Astbury and Mr. Bernard Weaver. WILFRED MARK WEBB. Odstock, Hanwell, November, 1907. — CONTENTS I THE THRALL OF DRESS pag« The principles of evolution applied to clothes . i II THE ORIGIN OF DRESS The origin of dress ------- 5 III DEVELOPMENT OF THE MODERN COAT The ancestral shawl—Problematical buttons . .12 ly BUTTONS AS CHRONICLES Episodes in the later history of the coat and cufEs . .19 V COLLARS AND BANDS Nicks in coat lapels—^The why and wherefore of the white shirt front . 30 VI VESTIGES IN THE HAT How hats were evolved—^Why plumes are on the left side—^The growth of the busby—Helmets and cocked hats . -36 VII SHOES AND STOCKINGS Early foot-gear—The origin of the clock—^A modern imitation of tattooing—Gciily-coloured garters . .46 VIII PETTICOATS AND TROUSERS The belted plaid and kilt—Early skirts—^The antiquity of trousers Trouser stripes . , . • 53 IX COATS OF ARMS Signet rings—Armorial bearings—Escutcheons—Crests—Badges 60 xiii — xiv THE HERITAGE OF DRESS X GLOVES AND MITTENS page Origin of the baby's glove—Fourchettes—The " points " on' the backs of gloves . .68 XI TAGS, PINS, AND BALDRICS Laces—The evolution and vagaries of the safety-pin—Primitive methods of carrying burdens as illustrated by muff-chains, baldrics, and yokes 73 XII ORNAMENTS Primitive necklaces—Finger-rings—The origin of the hair-comb— Buttons—Studs—Flowers—Feathers—Amulets . .81 XIII HAIR DRESSING Head-shaving—^Wigs that are still worn—Roman curls and fringes . 92 XIV SPECIAL DRESSES Fashions kept up by ceremonies—Survivals in special costume Flowing garments . -99 XV SERVANTS' DRESS The prototypes of liveries—Reminiscences of George II and George III —Origin of the page-boy's buttons—The jockey cap—^Aprons . 102 XVI COCKADES The cockade possibly a degenerated chaperon—The varieties of the cockade—Cockade wearers . • .111 XVII CHILDREN'S DRESS Survivals in children's dress—Special school-costumes—The blue-coat boy—Pubhc school-boys—Adoption of special dress at girls' schools 1 19 XVIII WEDDING GARMENTS The veil—Bridesmaids and bribery—Old shoes—Orange blossom . 129 XIX MOURNING Colours associated with mourning—Widows' weeds—Perennial mourning . • • • i34 — CONTENTS XV XX COSTUME CONNECTED WITH RELIGION page " The surplice and " the cloth —The civil origin of vestments—Fine vest- ments—Processional vestments, so called—Nuns' dress—The choker 137 XXI SUNDAY CLOTHES The significance of Sunday clothes—The wearing of hats in church by ladies ........ I53 XXII ACADEMICAL DRESS Gowns and hanging-sleeves—The forerunner of the hood—The origin of the doctor's hat—The evolution of the mortar-board . -156 XXIII LEGAL DRESS Vestiges of the coif—Hoods and gowns—Signs of mourning . .161 XXIV STATE AND COURT ATTIRE Coronation dress—ParUamentary robes—Mistakes in Court Dress Vestiges of the wig and of the chaperon—Court cards . .165 XXV SURVIVALS IN MILITARY UNIFORMS Armour—Prickers for flint Icxiks—Forage cords—Reminiscences of gallantry—Regimental badges—Courtship colours . '173 XXVI NAVAL UNIFORMS Supposed survivals—Petticoats and wide breeches . .186 XXVII THE COSTUME OF PUPPETS Punch and Judy—Fashion dolls—Dolls in swaddUng clothes—^The " Egyptian shabbies " . 188 XXVIII THE CLOWN AND PAINTING THE BODY The clown's dress—Savage painting and survivals of it—Tattooing Patches and false complexions—Masks .... 200 XXIX STAGE COSTUMES The harlequin, pantaloon, columbine, and acrobat . 210 — xvi THE HERITAGE OF DRESS XXX NIGHTDRESS FAGB Bands on nightgowns—Nightcaps—^Night attire worn in the streets . 214 XXXI THE DRESS OF ANIMALS Natural representatives of clothes—Horse-trappings—Amulets on harness—Dogs' disguises—Fashions in the form of animals. 217 XXXII COLOUR Importance of colour—Instinctive love of bright hues—Desirability of coloured clothes and gay scenes—Colour and Complexion . 227 XXXIII PATTERNS Ancient designs—Checks and tartans—Parti-coloured clothes—Evolu- " tion of ornamentation .