Volume 10, Issue 3, 2018

Engineered Digital Textile Print for Customized Curves

Kisalaya Choudhary Professor, , National Institute of Technology, India

ABSTRACT

There are various instances when women feel the need to wear clothes for a slimmer appearance than their actual body shape. Looks and body appearance provide self-assurance to people, especially to those who are in a business related to physical appearances. Physical fitness and appearance have taken a parallel path in today’s world. Many have experimented with garments providing body shape deceiving and illusionistic effect through meticulous use of solid colors, slimming patterns, and illusion print . This research paper explores how smart edits in print design provide aesthetics blended with engineered slim looks, enhancing and customizing curves, per consumer preference, to create body size adjustments visually. The creative edits can be efficiently used for creating one piece/single garments customizing the curves and visual body shapes in synchronization with digital print design to enhance the body in a considerate manner.

Keywords: Digital print and pattern, slimmer look, printed garments, customized curves

Digital engineered printed textiles and customization opportunities Examples from optical slimming design garment (Figure 1 A, 1B and 1C) are used for Digital technology opens up a door of highlighting the body curves and creating a possibilities and opportunities for designers, slimming illusion. These garments are manufacturers, and business owners in created by effective use of dark and light various fields related to printed garments and color placements making the waist area textiles. Breaking the limitations of repeat appearance slimmer. The techniques of and number of colors per design; engineered pattern cutting and placements of colors are design layouts, offer newer possibilities of used in the garments, and positioning colors shorter minimums and quick turnaround time and patterns in a considerate manner creates (Ujjie, 2006). Engineered print design an illusion (Dean, 2012). A similar concept possibilities and quick turnaround times are may be explored in print design using design crucial to the customized products, making variants other than combinations of solid them effective in terms of designing dark and light colors to create slimming opportunities, quick production and product effects in garments. Digital printing delivery. technology offers a customization opportunity and choices for individual Understanding customized curves preferences.

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1A 1B 1C Figure 1A, 1B, 1C: Examples of slimming one-piece dress (Style.com, 2012)

The types of slimming dresses shown above Research objective (Figure 1A, 1B, 1C) are suitable for a larger bodied woman and provide the flexibility to The objective of this research is to explore look slim without needing to change who variants in digital design and use of digital they are, instead, emphasizing how they tools to offer creative design solutions for dress. Cas Boutique DC is a smart editable customization opportunities in boutique, owned by designer Maggie that slimming single piece garments. The target offers custom-made garment design services. audience is women and the designs Designs and garments are created as per the represented in this paper deal with the body shape and consumer requirement to sensitive issue of women's appearance for reflect the perfect look that suits the body and fitted one-piece garments. enhances perceived value (Jordan, 2010). There has been a remarkable change in the Methodology area of custom clothing after the rise of digital technology. Many initiatives have The concepts used for customized curves and been witnessed throughout the fashion and digital printing technology were studied by garment industry in utilizing various aspects exploring the work of well-known designers of digital technology such as 3D scan for catering to the specific need of consumers different body types. The reverse through customized clothing design, technique is used to create 3D models for journals, and books in the area of customized garment fitting. Virtual mannequins are used clothing and digital printing technological for pattern cutting and visual trial in a virtual advances and possibilities. Design setting to modify the designs as per consumer experiments were carried out in digital form need and desires (Pecoco, Galantucci, & for consumer feedback/response. Three Lavecchia, 2011). E-Commerce offers visualizations of standard single piece design various design solutions; ‘CreyateStores’ by concepts were created on digital software Arvind Internet offers customized men’s (Adobe Photoshop 6) using design variants clothing for evolving online consumers such as shadow, color gradation, scale (Mohan, 2014). Customization has been variation, and motif/pattern engineered offered for digitally printed garments by placement. These design concepts were online brands such as spoonflower.com for shown to women for feedback using a semi- fabrics and constrvct.com for garments structured questionnaire research tool. globally.

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Understanding curves and scope for waistline. People have different body shapes, customization popularly known as brick, pear, apple, vase, etc. (Squirelly, 2012). According to the Fashion has certainly addressed the need for research conducted in 2010 by researcher slimming body appearance in multiple ways. Andrew Hough; the hourglass shape is the Caryl Franklin discusses the importance of most desired among the different body medium size prints and patterns as the best shapes (Hough, 2010). The hourglass, or choice to look slim. She explains that perfect curvaceous body appearance, diagonal lines as compared to straight lines depends a lot on the way curves get highlight the body to look slimmer (Franklin, highlighted in a dress. 2011). There are ample references available for highlighting various body types through Exploring digital print design on one piece utilizing different garment types, color garment & effectiveness of digital tools choice, and print and pattern design. These resources include designer label, online It was observed through the study of existing brands, and customization services. designs that a few variants contribute However, digitally printed engineered effectively to create a sliming appearance in garments offer diversified elements of a single piece garment. The following four design, colors, and patterns for customizing variants were considered while exploring curves in a garment. Customized curves design concepts for single piece garments. address the needs for shoulders, bust line, and

a) Scale variation b) Shadow c) Curvilinear shapes d) Motif/Pattern placement

Figure 2: Template for Slimming guidelines

The curve zones are indicated in a single piece garment as explained in Figure 2.

Design Template highlights concern areas of the body. Design variants such as shadow, scale variation, and pattern placement may be used strategically to create effective results following the indicated areas in dark grey color.

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Figure 3: Design segments for highlighting/slimming body parts

In Figure 3, basic design element dots were the base fabric was used. In each case, the used in the top layer to create different design segments were created keeping in segments for highlighting/slimming body mind that each segment coordinates with the parts indicated in the template (See 1A to other and compliments the garment as a 1E). In the medium layer three segments whole in different permutations and created using shadow (See 2A to 2C). combinations (as shown in Finally, in the base layer, a medium color of Figure 4: Design Possibilities).

Figure 4: Design Possibilities

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Figure 4 depicts three garment design (2004). This study shows that the preferences possibilities using permutation and among college and working women combinations of design segments from demonstrate a greater preference for Western Figure 3. The segments when combined as and Indo-western apparel (Cygnus Business permutation and combination; offer multiple Consulting and Research, 2004). The design choices as per consumer preference. respondents were given a small presentation The number of design option possibilities about body type and customization. Further depends on the possible number of design explorations (Figure 3 & 4) were permutation and combination segments and shown for feedback. The feedback was elements created by the designer. collected through an open-ended questionnaire research tool. After obtaining Two-dimensional draping was done on the the feedback from the respondents; the standard pattern of a single piece garment to qualitative data were analyzed based on visualize slimming effect. Further, the Kruger's (1994) qualitative analysis of data. customization process was explored through The analysis was done based on descriptive various online resources to understand and statements and its interpretation. establish the links of producing design options as per consumer requirements. The Profile of Respondents slimming requirements and segmentation design options were discussed through a  Total Respondents: 30 (9 Medium, 6 semi-structured questionnaire with women Large and 5 Extra Large) respondents.  Age group: 18 to 35 years (studying and aspiring for a professional course/career Discussions and feedback or working. 18 respondents were representing age group 18 to 25 and 12 The questionnaire respondents were 30 respondents were representing age group Indian females between the ages of 18 to 35 of 26 to 35 years) years. It was assumed that Western garments  Body type: Medium to Extra Large as would be preferred in this group of indicated in the enclosed body consumers, as per studies carried out by measurement Cygnus Business Consulting and Research

Table 1: Body measurement table as per sizes indicated by respondent Medium Large Extra-Large Bust (inches) 34” 36” 38” Waist (inches) 28” 32” 36” Hip (inches) 38” 40” 44”

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Table 2: Respondents feedback and response analysis Response Respondents Factors for preference Questions Preferences Preference for 66% women preferred Slimming garments projects fitness, slimming slimmer look printed provides feel-good factor, and boosts self- appearance garment among young confidence garment professional Preference of 68% women prefer print Print designs offer unification of diverse patterns vs. Solid and pattern to the solid elements in one garment thus creating and textured and textures surface interest surfaces What does the 65% women prefer the Women prefer the customization of customized customization of the slimming garment due to several reasons… slimming garment slimming garment 1. Personalized design choices offer 2. Slimming physical appearance 3. Suitable option for people who cannot frequently exercise due to hectic schedule or medical/health reasons 4. As an instant Solution for certain occasions and time period Consumer 55% consumer prefer Consumer is looking forward to engineered expectation from print and pattern, 27% design and style options and variety in color the customized prefer solid, and textures way slimming dress in and 23% consumers are terms of DESIGN comfortable with all types of design options Consumer 56% respondents Consumer preferences include: expectation inclination is towards a) a comfortable online solution for having a comfortable customization ordering system with b) 7 to 10 days product delivery time good visualization feature c) Online interface for easy and smart edits Other concerns or Time and price concerns The major concerns are expectation are expressed by 45% a) Time respondents b) Cost Other comments Customization as a Consumer prefers smart edits available for re-designing the garment and instant solution visualization It offers participatory design edit to consumer without having designing skills

Based on the consumer feedback, a basic Shadow/color gradation on the middle layer, framework for the customization process was and c) Fabric base color on the lowest layer. designed in digital format. The basic framework includes three variants: a) Design Permutation and combination of the above segment options based on a common variants a,b,c creates multiple choices for motif/pattern/theme on Top Layer, b) consumer selection. The permutation and combination generate creative possibilities

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within a single design concept; designed instant visualization and order placement for strategically in segments. Smart edits in the one or multiple garments. Smart edit options online framework make the design process may be built into the online system with interactive. It provides freedom and simple technical support. The enclosed editing solution to the consumer from a non- conceptualized model represents a basic design background. Figure 5 illustrates the framework for customization with smart edits customization framework is a conceptual for one piece slimming printed garments. framework for online digital solutions for

Figure 5: Conceptualized framework suggests smart edits for customization, design variants, consumer interactive online interface, and effective visualization for making informed choices.

Customization and printing process depending on consumer selection of design, style and size specifications and ready Using digital technology, designers designs can be edited with minimal time can easily arrange the design segments as per consumption by consumer. Upon placing an size and position of pattern. Design segments order, edited designs may be sent for printing may be created as per garment style and and stitching. The product delivery is the printed using high definition digitally printed final step of this process. fashion (N.A., 2014). The printing for customization may be done with various Conclusion online service providers such as Spoonflower, First2print, Constrvct, The scope of creating customized printed InkdropPrinting, and Fabric on garments is enormous. Researchers are Demand/Karma Kraft. Since garment recommending that patterns are simple, stitching time and cost designers/retailers/brands who address the shall be reasonable. The garment pattern shall needs of professional women will be a part of the digital artwork integrating the demonstrate better profitability (Batra & seam line for efficient cutting and stitching Niehm, 2009). Consumer needs are (Polvinen, 2012). A collection of designs becoming more specific, as per body type, may be displayed on the website and personality, professional image, and cultural

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environment. Engineered layout possibility Hough, A. (2010). Women with hourglass in digital design is pushing the boundaries to figures and perfect waists most encompass newer opportunities in printed attractive, study finds. Retrieved textiles and fashion. It propels us to explore October 30, 2014, from newer methods of conceptualizing printed www.telegraph.co.uk: garments. Today, printed garments are http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/scie expressing far beyond themes, color palette, nce/science-news/7965211/Women- season, motif, print, and pattern; and with-hourglass-figures-and-perfect- consumers show a reasonable inclination waists-most-attractive-study- towards the customization. The smart edit finds.html designing options proposed in this research Jordan, N. (2010). Customize your curves- paper are user-centric and interactive. The Custom clothing to help you stand out framework and design process discussed in from the crowd. Retrieved October 24, this research paper provides smart 2014, from DC Plus size examiner: customization opportunity to meet upcoming http://www.examiner.com/article/cust diverse consumer needs and desires. omize-your-curves-custom-clothing- to-help-you-stand-out-from-the-crowd References Kruger, R. A. (1994). The analysis continuum: raw data; descriptive Batra, M., & Niehm, L. S. (2009). An statements; interpretation. Retrieved opportunity analysis framework for October 25, 2015, from apparel retailing in India. New York: www.journals.cambridge.org: Sage Publications. Retrieved July 12, http://journals.cambridge.org/downloa 2016, from d.php?file=/PNS/PNS63_04/S002966 http://ctr.sagepub.com/cgi/rapidpdf/08 5104000874a.pdf&code=da381bca3f3 87302X08327360v1.pdf 5800d4786ecfec8f757c2 Cygnus Business Consulting and Research. Mohan, M. (2014). Smart Startup Launches (2004). Executive summary of apparel Custom Clothing Brand with 3-D retailing in India. Retrieved March 6, Technology. Retrieved October 27, 2015, from 2014, from www.cio.in: http://www.cygnusindia.com/Industry http://www.cio.in/feature/smart- %20Insight- startup-starts-custom-clothing-brand- Apparel%20Retailing%20in%20India with-3-d-technology - N.A. (2014). The Research on the Executive%20Summary%20&%20TO Application of Digitally-printed Fabric C-March%202004_. in Garment Design. China Textile Dean, J. (2012). Wear Optical illusions get Leader (12), 77-80. thin. Retrieved October 24, 2014, from Pecoco, G., Galantucci, L., & Lavecchia, F. Moillusions.com: (2011). 3D Digitization of Curves on http://www.moillusions.com/wear- human bodies by means of digital close optical-illusions-get-thin/ range photogrammetry. Retrieved Franklin, C. (2011). How to look good petite November 3, 2014, from and curvy, print and pattern. Retrieved http://www.daaam.info/Downloads/Pd November 14, 2014, from fs/proceedings/proceedings_2011/137 www.howtolookgood.com: 1_Percoco.pdf http://www.howtolookgood.com/book s/petite-curvy.pdf

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Polvinen, E. (2012). 2D/3D Fashion Product Squirelly, N. (2012). 12 realistic woman Development Prototype, The body shape chart. Retrieved November Engineered Garment Pattern 12, 2014, from www.deviantart.com: Prototype Printing Process. Retrieved http://ninasquirrelly.deviantart.com/art November 24, 2014, from /12-realistic-woman-body-shape- www.fashiontech.wordpress.com: chart-301110737 http://fashiontech.wordpress.com/tag/ Ujiie, H. (2006). Digital printing of textiles engineered-garment-printing/ (Vol. 1). (H. Ujje, Ed.) Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.

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