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Preface. Contents. a Practical Treatise Manufacture of Perfumery. Chapter I. Chap The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery, by C. Deite This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery Author: C. Deite Translator: William T. Brannt Release Date: October 6, 2015 [EBook #50139] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREATISE ON MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY *** Produced by deaurider, Les Galloway and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive) A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY: COMPRISING DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES, COSMETICS, ETC., ETC., WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND TESTS OF THEIR PURITY. BY DR. C. DEITE, ASSISTED BY L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER, H. TOEFFNER, AND OTHER EXPERTS. FROM THE GERMAN BY WILLIAM T. BRANNT, EDITOR OF "THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT-BOOK." ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS. PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, 810 WALNUT STREET. 1892. COPYRIGHT BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. 1892. PRINTED AT THE COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE, 705 Jayne Street, PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. [Pg iii] PREFACE. A translation of the portion of the "Handbuch der Parfümerie-und Toiletteseifenfabrikation," edited by Dr. C. DEITE, relating to perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to the English reading public with the full confidence that it will not only fill a useful place in technical literature, but will also prove—for what it is chiefly intended—a ready book of reference and a practical help and guide for the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the editor and his co-workers are a sufficient guaranty of its value and practical usefulness, they all being experienced men, well schooled each in the particular branch of the industry, the treatment of which has been assigned to him. The most suitable and approved formulæ, tested by experience, have been given; and special attention has been paid to the description of the raw materials, as well as to the various methods of testing [Pg iv] them, the latter being of special importance, since in no other industry has the manufacturer to contend with such gross and universal adulteration of raw materials. It is hoped that the additions made here and there by the translator, as well as the portion relating to the manufacture of "Fruit Ethers," added by him, may contribute to the interest and usefulness of the treatise. Finally, it remains only to be stated that, with their usual liberality, the publishers have spared no expense in the proper illustration and the mechanical production of the book; and, as is their universal practice, have caused it to be provided with a copious table of contents and a very full index, which will add additional value by rendering any subject in it easy and prompt of reference. W. T. B. PHILADELPHIA, May 2, 1892. [Pg v] CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. PAGE Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of the Orient 17 Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times 18 Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by Herodotus 19 Pliny's account of olibanum 20 Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of the sweet-scented ointment "myron" 21 Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments; Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome 22 Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments; Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides 23 Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers 24 Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by the Romans 25 [Pg vi] Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages; Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, and of Guy de Chanlios 26 Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici and Margaret of Valois 27 Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century 28 Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats of the French perfumery industry 29 Privileges of the parfumeurs-gantiers in France; Use of perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling him into matrimony 30 CHAPTER II. THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants 31 Families of plants richest in oil; Central Europe the actual flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the cultivation of plants 32 Volatile oils and their properties 33 Principal divisions of volatile oils 34 Constitution of terpenes; Concentrated volatile oils 35 Modes of gaining volatile oils; Expression 36 Clarification of the oil 37 Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described 38 Distillation 39 Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described 40 Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated and described 41 [Pg vii] Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air; Separation of the oil and water; Florentine flasks, illustrated and described 46 Separator-funnel, illustrated and described 47 Extraction 48 Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described 49 Heyl's distilling apparatus 57 Maceration or infusion; Pomades; Purification of the fats used in the maceration process 58 Huiles antiques; Old French process of maceration; Piver's maceration apparatus, illustrated and described 59 Flowers for which maceration is employed; Absorption or enfleurage 60 Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated and described 61 Flowers for which the absorption process is employed; Storage of volatile oils 65 CHAPTER III. TESTING VOLATILE OILS. Extensive adulteration of volatile oils; Testing volatile oils as to odor and taste 66 Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil 67 Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine; Dragendorff's test 68 Hager's tannin test 69 Detection of chloroform; Detection of benzine 71 Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine 72 Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids 73 Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality; Test with iodine 74 Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test 75 Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen towards nitroprusside of copper 76 Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test; Hager's guaiacum reaction 78 [Pg viii] Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum reaction 79 Hübl's iodine method 80 A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic potash lye 81 Utilization of Maumené's test by F. R. Williams 82 Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil 83 CHAPTER IV. THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. Acacia oil or oil of cassie; Almond oil (bitter) 87 Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection 90 Angelica oil 92 Anise-seed oil 93 Star anise oil 94 Balm oil; Basil oil; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves 96 Bergamot oil; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity 97 Cajeput oil 98 Camomile or chamomile oil; Blue camomile oil; Green camomile oil 99 Caraway oil; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil 100 Cedar oil; Cherry-laurel oil 101 Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil; Cinnamon oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil 102 Cassia oil 103 Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves; Quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil 104 Detection of adulterations in cassia oil; Citron oil 106 Detection of adulterations in citron oil; Citronella oil; Detection of adulterations in citronella oil 107 Oil of cloves 108 Test for the value of oil of cloves 109 Eucalyptus oil 110 Fennel oil 111 [Pg ix] Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil; East Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils 112 Adulterations of geranium oils; Jasmine oil, or oil of jessamine 113 Juniper oil 114 Lavender oil; Spike oil 115 Detection of adulterations of lavender oil; Lemon oil; Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil 116 Écuelle process 117 Distillation; Apparatus combining the écuelle and distilling processes, illustrated and described 118 Adulterations of oil of lemons and their
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