Alarcón: Frontier between resistance and magnificence “Alarcón achieved the greatest period of splendor in central Spain” LARCÓN From a 13th-century Chronicle AAnd Its Parador N ot much evidence remains, but there is just enough to show that the first inhabitants of Alarcón were probably Iberian peoples. It would certainly be strange if it were otherwise. What is much more certain is that the Romans settled here, and of this there is much proof. It has been suggested that the ancient town was given its current name by the son of the Visigoth King Alarico, although this theory is not universally accepted. Alarcón was born to history in its role as an Arab fortress under the kingdom of Toledo. It would again be Alfonso VIII who finally conquered the town at the end of the 12th century. But the monarchs of the Reconquest immediately found themselves faced with a problem: after the heroic exploits of battle, no easy task, it then became necessary to repopulate these lands, which had been emptied and devastated by military campaigns. The recent conquest of Cuenca had been of momentous importance. The charter granted to that city would come to serve as comprehensive and detailed regulations governing life and behavior in frontier towns. Cuenca’s charter was to become a model for many of the other charters created to the south of the Tagus River. Of equal or greater importance was the growing presence and powers of the military orders. These were responsible for both defending the frontiers and the necessary repopulation. Many of these activities were entrusted to the Order of Saint James. Although this order would never have complete control of Alarcón, but would control only the hospital and its lands, it nevertheless turned Alarcón into a center of vital importance in managing the vast territories in their charge. The military obligations of the new population were regulated by the town charter, based on that of Cuenca. Each citizen was granted a lot in town and ownership of a certain amount of land for cultivation. However, such sound measures were not enough to repopulate the deserts devoid of inhabitants left behind by the Reconquest. All of this – in addition to great wealth in expanses of abandoned pastureland – led to an extraordinary growth in livestock farming. So great was this expansion that the military orders would become the richest ranchers in the Kingdom of Castile. All this and much more was strictly established and precisely ALARCÓN AND ITS PARADOR 1 regulated by the Charter of Alarcón, which King Alfonso VIII set up as a governing system, In the end, the result was that for Alarcón the including further conditions for control and use experience of the Reconquest ranged from the of pastureland. depths of poverty resulting from the devastation of war, plagues, and starvation, to what Control and custody of the livestock was contemporary chroniclers call “the greatest period entrusted to the so-called esculcas, military of splendor in central Spain.” escorts made up of knights (with their own horses, of course) and foot soldiers. From the 14th century, Alarcón and its territories became part of the dominion of the This is more of less what the Charter of Infante Juan Manuel. Alarcón established: When the policies of the Catholic Monarchs had “Livestock owners shall have esculcas (escorts) almost succeeded in bringing an end to the during the months of December, January, Marquisate of Villena, Alarcón would remain as if February, and half of March, with one knight for frozen in time, in the best time in its history. each two herds of cattle, and for every three Perhaps this has been its good fortune. flocks of sheep, one knight”… “A knight who has more than one hundred sheep shall also have an escort … And a knight serving as an escort, be he citizen or townsman, shall have a horse worth more than twenty maravedis.” A coveted and legendary fortress monarch: the chronicles indicate that the siege lasted nine months. In T his ancient fortress well deserves these and other similar the Chronicle of Alfonso VIII, Ximénez de Rada tells us that town was descriptions. Although it entered history as an Arab, it is as finally taken in 1184, and that Hernán Martínez de Ceballos, later to a Christian that it was able to withstand the test of time. Alarcón is take the name of Alarcón, had scaled the walls. At that time – the like a tightly drawn knot of the comings and goings of history. In the early 13th century – Alarcón was much more than the Alarcón we see great tale that is the Reconquest, it would figure in the many internal today. conquests and reconquests which, with one side pitted against its own (Moors against Moors), and the other against its own (Christians Vast territories “encompassing a good part of La Mancha, their against Christians), would take centuries to resolve. borders stretching beyond the town of Albacete” were defended, governed, and administered from this castle/fortress, today a Parador. The fortress, later a castle, and now the Parador, has borne silent witness to many and varied exploits, intrigues, bold deeds, The fortress was granted its own charter, perhaps the first of those adventures, glories, and pains. For this reason, many have not gone derived from that of Cuenca. A pilgrims’ hospice was also built, at the wrong in hailing its “fortitude.” instigation of the Order of St. James. It as also here, in this very fortress, that King Alfonso VIII set up his court/camp, using it as his We need say nothing about the fortress’s surroundings which the base, and devised the winning strategy for defeating the Moors at the traveler will have already noticed, even before reaching the reception famous battle of Navas de Tolosa one year later (1212). area of the Parador itself. Perhaps, however, we could point out that it is the Jucar River that encircles, surrounds, and protects the ancient fortress. Or that the fortress has always been defended by three gates in the walls, and protected by moats and towers. The history of the Parador, in its life as an Arab fortress, dates back to the early 8th century. It appears that Muhamed el Feherí, the younger, sought refuge here from a rebellious minor ruler in Toledo, who was soon purged by the legendary Abderramán I. And so Alarcón first became “a coveted town which had to be conquered, and a permanent fortress” for both sides, who managed to occupy it at various times. After the conquest of Cuenca (1177), King Alfonso VIII set off with his “invincible and glorious armies for Alarcón,” as if taking part in a military parade. However, the conquest was not to be so easy for the Christian 2 ALARCÓN AND ITS PARADOR But that is not all: in between the These walls, which once served to wars and truces, there was time for defend, now open their doors in love, affairs, pacts, and conspiracies. welcome. The echoes of war have gone, and they now offer peace and During this period, the castle rest, and an opportunity to served as dwelling place and literary contemplate their monuments. inspiration for the Infante Juan Manuel. It was here that he wrote a portion of his works, while also working on securing his future. When Jaime II of Aragon stripped him of the domain of Elche, he received the territories of Alarcón in recompense. He married the king’s daughter Constanza, and not only recovered his domains, but never returned the territory of Alarcón. Shortly afterwards he got his hands on the Marquisate of Villena. A century later, Alarcón experienced first-hand the war between Isabel the Catholic and Juan Pacheco, Marquis of Alarcón, a staunch supporter of Juana la Beltraneja. With time, the nobility turned into courtiers, and the castle’s town languished, only to awaken fleetingly during the War of Spanish Succession and the Carlist Wars. Júcar Gorge: the best defense 1. Don Juan Manuel Square. 2. Church of Santo Domingo. 3. Town Hall. 16th-century building. 4. The Palace. An example of vernacular Baroque architecture. 5. Church of San Juan Bautista. Classic Mannerist façade. 6. La Santísima Trinidad (The Holy Trinity). 7. Chapel of Santa María of the Order of Saint James. 8. Casteñeda Palace. 16th-century with Renaissance façade. 9. Walls and fortifications. 10 10. Río Gate. 2 11. Picazo Gate. 5 12. Parish church of 4 8 Santa María. 16th- 3 án Julio Poveda 9 1 Calle del Capit century, with a 12 lle del D octor Agustín Tortosa Renaissance façade by C Ca alle Esteban Jamete and a de a 7 Alvaro de Lar plateresque altarpiece by C alle the same artist. de 6 Sa nta T rinidad 11 ALARCÓN AND ITS PARADOR 3 Sleeping well and eating heavily A larcón’s cuisine makes the best of will be only too happy to answer any questions. some of the oldest customs and medieval recipes of La Mancha, embellishing As an example, let us divulge one of the them with its own delicious touches. mysteries of these hidden, but never secret stoves: The dishes are nearly always hearty, highly spiced, and “somewhat robust,” as they say Morteruelo: around here. Others might say “somewhat savage.” For four to five portions, use 1/4 hare and 1/4 rabbit, 1/2 partridge and some chicken. Alarcón has always based its cooking on the hunt, as recorded by the Roman historian A little bit, about 200 grams, of ham and Diodorus: another bit of liver and belly pork. “As for their food, these peoples eat wild meat of all kinds, which Add oil, salt, pepper, caraway, and a few other secret ingredients of abounds in the area.